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Lublijhed Aug: 3.1798, by 1 Stockdale, Piccadilly . 


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THE VOYAGE 


OF 


LA PEROUSE 
ROUND THE WORLD, 
IN THE YEARS 1785, 1786, 1787, AND 1788, 


©: WITH THE NAUTICAL TABLES. 


oe) Ge} Se @ Grimes 


Arranged by M. L. A. MILET MUREAU, 
Infpector of Fortifications and Member of feveral literary Societies at Paris. 


i © jte 6 Gee 


: TO WHICH IS PREFIXED, 
NARRATIVE OF AN INTERESTING 
VOY AGE FROM MANILLA TO ST. BLAISE. 


. AND ANNEXED, 
TRAVELS OVER THE CONTINENT, 
With the Difpatches of La Péroufe in 1787 and 1788, 
BY M. DE LESSEPS. 


FF 
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH. 
[lluftrated with Fifty-one Plates. 
= 0% 


IN TWO VOLUMES. 


VOL. II. 
Ee 


London : 
PAT One PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY.’ 


1798. 


mr 


DST TO DER ST TNA PE SEP PO A Dan see sr 
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i 363- wl f, Vaseltne d 
14 M) awa-26/ 


CONTENTS. 


VOL. 1. 


CHAP. XVL 


Departure from Cavita—Sand Bank in the Mid- 
dle of the Channel of Formofa—Its Latitude 
‘and Longitude—We “Anchor “to Leagues off 
Old Fort Zeeland—We get under Sail next Day 
—Defeription of the Pefcadores or Ponghou 

_ -<flands—-We make the Ifland of Botol Tobaco- 

Ÿ  wima—We coaf along the VYland of Kumi, 
which forms Part of the Kingdom of Liqueo— 
Enter the Sea of Japan and Sail along the 
Coat of China—We fieer for the Ifland of 
Quelpaert—Coaft Corea, making daily a 
mical obfervations—Defeription of the [fland of 

 Quelpaert, Corea, Se.—Difcovery of the land | 
“of Dagelet-—Its Longitude and Latitude ..... 


«CHAP. XVII. 


Route towards the North Weft Part of PL oo 
View of Cape Noto, and the Ifland of Jootf- 
fimi—Details regarding this Iland—Latitude 
and Longitude of this Part of Japan—We 

meet with feveral Japanefe and Chineje Veffels 
.—We return towards the Coaft of Tartary, 
which we make in 42° North Latitude -We 
put into the Bay of Ternai—Defcription of the 
Country and its Produdtions—We get under 

Way after a Stay of Three Days—We put into 

the Bay of Suffrèn...........,., 


141907 


CONTENTS, VOL, II. 


CHAP. XVIII. 


PA 

We continue our Courje to the Northward—We 
defery a Peak to the Eaftward—We perceive 
that we are Sailing in a Channel—We ha e our 
Courfe towards the Ifland of Segalien—We put 
into Langle Bay—Manners and Cuftoms of the 
Tahabitants-—Their Information determines us to 
continue our Route to the Northward—We — 
range along the Coaft of the [fland—We put 
into D’ Eftaing Bay—We ‘nm from thence— 
We find that the Channel between the Ifland 
and the Continent of Tartary is obftrudted by 
Sand-Banks—We arrive in the Bay of Caftries 
on the Coaft of Tartary : 


CHAP. XIX. 
We put into the Bay of Caftries—Defcription of 


that Bay and of a Tartar Village—Manners 
and Cuftoms of the Inhabitants—Their refpet 
for Tombs, and for Property—Our perfec? Con- 
fidence in their Probity—Their paternal Affec- 
tion to their children—Their ftric? Union among 
themfelves—Four foreign Canoes feen in this Bay 
Geographical Information obtained from their 
Crews—Produétions of the Buy of Caftries— 
Its Quadrupeds, Birds, Foffils and Plants.... 


CHAP. XX. 

Departure from the Bay of Caftries—Difcovery 
of the Strait which feparates Jeffo and Oku- 
Jeffo—We put into the Bay of Crillon, off the 
Point of the Ifland. of Tchoka or Segalien— 
Defiription of the Inhabitants and their Village 
—We crofs the Strait, and recognize all the 
Lands difcovered by the Dutch on Board the 

Kaftricum— 


AGE 


39 


6A 


. CONTENTS, VOL. II; 


Vv 


PAGE 


Kaftricum—Staten Ifland—Vriess Strait—— 
Company's Land—Ifland of the Four Brothers 
—ITland of Mareka—We pas between the Ku- 
riles, and fhape our Courfe for Kamt/chatka... 


CHAP. XXI. 


bi te to the preceding Chapters—Additional 


etails relative to the Eaftern Coaf of Tur- 
tary—Doubts concerning the pretended Pearl 
Fifhery, À li of by the Jefuits—Phyfical Dif- 
ference between the Iflanders of that Country, 
and the Inhabitants of the Continent—Poverty 
of the Country—-Impofibility of carrying on any 
sree Branch À Commerce there—Vocabu- 
lary of the Inhabitants of the [land of Tchoka, 
ON COPANO) SE wind loto de slate 6 Ate 


CHAP. XXII. 


Anchorage in the Bay of Awat/cha—Obliging 


poy Aa of Lieutenant Kaborof— Arrival of 
M. Ka off Ougrenin, Governor of Okhot/k, at 
the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul—He is 
followed on Board by M. Schmaleff and the un- 
fortunate Ivachkin, who excites in us the moft 
lively Interefi—Kind Offers of the Governor 
towards us—A Ball among the Kamt/chadales 


81 


—A Courier arrives from Okhotfk and brings - 


us Letters from France—W : éifcover the Tomb 
of M. de la Croyére, we af: Infcriptions en- 
graved on Copper—New political Views of M. 
Kafloff, relative to the Adminiftration of Kamt- 
Schatka—We obtain Permiffion to fend our Inter- 
preters, with our Papers, to France—Departure 


from the Bay of Awatfiha..........,,,.. 


117 


CONTENTS, VOL, IIe 


CHAP. XXIII. 


Summary Particulars of Kamt/chatha-—Diredtions 
for Sailing in and out off the Bay of Awat/cha 
—We traverfe-m the Parallel of 37° 30’, a 
Space of 300 Leagues, in fearch of Land, fuid 
tobe difeovered by the Spaniards in 1620— 
Crofs the Line for the Third Time—We make 
the lands of Navigators, after having paffed 
the land of Danger of Byron——Vifited by 
many ‘Canoes—Barter with the Indians, and 
Anchor at.the Ile of Maouna 0... ently ab Wis 


CHAP. XXIV. 


Manners, Drefs, Arts, and Cuftoms of the Lflandens 
of Maouna—Contraft of this fmiling and fertile 
Country with the Feracity of its Inhabitants— 
The Swell becoming very heavy, compels us to 


get under Way—M.,de Langle wauting to pro- 
cure Water, lands with Four armed ‘Boats— 
—He is affaflinated—Eleven Perfons of the 
Two. Ships’ Compenses experience the Jame Fate 


Narrative of this Event.... 
CHAP. XXV. 


Departure from the Land of Maouna—Defcrip- 
shon of the Tfland.of Oyolava—Exchanges with 
its Inhabitants—See the Ifland of Pola— New 


—Circumpantia 


CHAP. XXVI. 


Departure from Navigators’ Iflands—We direct 
our Route towards the Friendly Ilands—Fall 


n 


PAGE 


143 


164 


188 


PAGE 
in with the Jfland of Vavao, and different 
Hands of this Archipelago very inaccurately laid 
down on the Charts—The Inhabitants of Ton- 
gataboo haften to come on Board and trade 
with us—We Anchor at Norfolk Ifland—De- 
Jeription of that Iland—Arrival at Botany Bay 206 


Extra& from.an Account of an Excurfion to the 
Peak of Teneriffe, performed by Meffrs. De La- 
manon and Monges, on the 2Ath of duguff, 1785 226. 

Eulogy of Lamanon, by M. Bonce.........,.. 230 

Deffertation on the Inhabitants of Eafter Island 
and of Mowee, by M. Rollin.... 238. 

Geographical Memoir on Eafter Island, by M. 
Bernixet 248 

Phyfological and Pathological Memoir on the Ame- 
ricäns, by M. Rollin, M. D. Surgeon-Major of 
the Bouffole Frigate.............,, 260 to 279 

Memoir on certain Infeéts, by M. La Martinière . 280 

Differtation on the Inhabitants of the Ifland of 
Tchoka and the Eaftern Tartars, by M. Rollin, | 
Surgeon-Major of the Bouffole Frigate ...... 288 

Obfervations of M. de Monneron, Captain of the 
Corps of Engineers, fent in quality of Chief En- 
gineer, in the gt Mn of M. de la Péroufe 


‘on the Ifland of Trinidad .......,..,.,... 209 
and of St. Catharine .........,...... 301 
GH ci RE SERRE EP RE RE EEE 306 
BAB and se Se ilk eee beens 310 
Sandwich Iflands........,....,,,.,.,, ibid. 
Day des Mangas. os ee ve ovine 0 0 00.0 6e 311 
Harbour of Monterey ..........,.,..., 312 

Obfervations by M. de la Péroufe on Manilla ... 313 


ROUGE OVP OVER ea dre ee Oe 317 
ù Ob/ervations 


viii CONTENTS, VOL. II. 


PAGE 
Objervations on the Terebratula, Anomia, or 


Memoir on the Commerce of Sea-Otter Skins, &c. 339 

Eftimate of the Otter and Beaver Skins, purchafed 
at Port des Français, on the N. W. Coaf of 
America, by the Bouffole and Aftrolabe Frigates 347 

Extracts from the Correfpondence of Meffrs. de la 
Péroufe, de Langle, and Lamanon, with the 
Minifter of Marine 850 to 431 

Offervations made between the Firf Degree o 
North and the Firft Degree of South Latitude, in 
order to difcover the Flux and Reflux of the At- 
mofphere | 

Deferiptive Note on the Lianes or Lardixabale of 
CH RENE AT «+++ 440 


433 


VOYAGES 


VOYAGE 
ROUND THE WORLD, 


IN THE YEARS 


1785, 1786, 1787, AND 1788. 


CHAP, XVI. 


DEPARTURE FROM CAVITA=-SAND BANK IN THE MID- 
DLE OF THE CHANNEL OF FORMOSA—ITS LATITUDE 
AND LONGITUDE—WE ANCHOR TWO LEAGUES OFF 
OLD FORT ZEELAND—WE GET UNDER SAIL NEXT 
DAY—DESCRIPTION OF THE PESCADORES OR PONG- 
HOU ISLANDS—WE MAKE THE ISLAND OF BOTOL 
TOBACO-XIMA—WE COAST ALONG THE ISLAND OF 
KUMI WHICH FORMS PART OF THE KINGDOM OF 
LIQUEO—ENTER THE SEA OF JAPAN AND SAIL 
ALONG THE COAST OF CHINA—WE STEER FOR THE 
ISLAND OF QUELPAERT—COAST COREA, MAKING 
DAILY ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS—DESCRIP- 
TION OF THE ISLAND OF QUELPAERT, COREA, &c. 
DISCOVERY OF THE ISLAND OF DAGELET—ITS LON+ 
GITUDE AND LATITUDE. 


N the 9th of April, according to the European 

Calendar, but the roth by that of the Manillas, 
we fet fail. with a good breeze at N. -E. which flatter- 
ed us with the hopes of doubling, in the courfe of the 
day, all the iflands that form the various ftreights of 
the bay of Manilla. Before we got under way, M. 
de Langle and myfelf received a vifit from M. de 
Bermudas, who affared us that the north-eaft mon- 
foon would not change in lefs than a month, and that 
. ‘VoL. II, B it 


a 


LA PEROUSE’s VOYAGE [1787, 


it was ftill later on the coaft of Formofa, the conti- 
nent of China being in a manner the fource of the 
northerly winds, which ‘prevail more than nine 
months in the year, on the coaft‘of that empire. But 
our impatience to. depart did not admit of liftening 
to the counfels of experience. We flattered ourfelves 
with the hope of ‘a fortunate’ exception : and that 
each year might give different epochas of change to its 
monfoons. ‘lhus we took our léave, and fome tri: 
fling variations. of the wind foon permitted us to get 
to the northward of theïfland of Luconia. 

We had fcarcely doubled Cape Bujador when the 
wind became obftinately-fixed in’ the north-eaft, and 
proved the. truth of M. Bermudas’s advice. I flat- 
tered myfelf, though with little ground for hope, that 
we fhould find under the lee of Formofa the fame va. 
riations as under the ifland of Luconia. I did not for- 
get that the proximity of the coaft of China rendered 


this opinion lefs probable. But in all events we had | 


no. alternative, but to wait, the change of the mon- 
foon. . For the heavy failing of our fhips, which were 
fheathed with wood and filled, left us no hopes of 
making any way to the northward with contrary 
winds. On the 21ft of April we made the ifland of 
Formofa ; in the channel which feparates it from Lu- 
conia we experienced very violent currents, which’ ap- 
‘peared to be occafioned by a regular tide, for our dead 
reckoning never differed from the refuli of our obfer- 
vations, either in latitude or longitude. On the 22d 
April, Lidifcovered the ifland of Lamay, which lies off 
the S. E. point of Formofa, at a diftance of about three 
leagues, bearing E. by S. the fea was very high, and 
the afpe& of the coaft convinced me: I fhould make 
-more way northward, if I could approach that of 
China. With the N. N. E. winds, I might fteer 
_N..W. and thus gain a higher latitude. But in the 
. middle of the channel I remarked that the fea was ex- 
tremely changed ; we were then in 22° 57’ N. on 
| an 


nt D eel ot Eu in FF 0 mR My M Bom es ve 


eae ie + es ae 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 3 


and to the weftward of the meridian of Cavita, or in 
116° 41’ E, longitude, and in 27 fathoms water, over 
a fandy boitom : and four minutes afterwards in only 
19 etes. So rapid a change led me to conclude 
thefe were not the founding of the coaft. of China, 
_ from which we were at a diftance of more than 30 
Jeagues, but of a bank not laid down in the charts. 
I kept the lead going, and foon found only twelve 
fathoms water ; I then tacked towards Formofa, and 
the bottom continued equally irregular, I was now 
of opinion that we ought to anchor, and therefore 

made a fignal to that effeét to the Aftrolabe, 
. The night was ferene, and at the return of day. we 
perceived no breakers around; I got under fail, 
and again fhaped my courfe N. W. by W. towards 
the continent ot China, but at nine o’clock in the 
morning, being in 21 fathoms water, and one minute 
after in 11 fathoms with a rocky bottom, I was of 
opinion that we ought not to continue any longer fo 
dangerous a purfuit, fince our boats did not fail well 
enough to keep a head of our fhips, and apprife us of 
the foundings. I determined therefore to run .back 
on the fame point of the compafs, and accordingly 
fleered S. E. by E. We failed fix leagues on this 
courfe, over a bottom of fand and rock, our found- 
ings varying from 24 to 11 fathoms: after which we 
deepened our water, and, at ten o’clock at night, en- 
tirely loft bottom, about 12 leagues from the point 
from whence we had tacked in the morning. This 
‘bank whole limits to the N. W. we had not deter- 
mined, is in the middle of the length of the courfe we 
had run in 23° of north latitude, and in 116° 45/ of 
E. longitude: its S: E. extremity is 22° 52’ of lati- 
tude, and 117° 3’ of longitude. It. may not be 
dangerous, fince our leaft depth af water was 11 fa- 
thoms ; but the nature and inequality of the bottom 
renders it extremely fufpicious, and it. muft be ob- 
ferved, that thefe fhoals, which are very common “ 
B 2 the 


4  rarétousss voyance | [1787. 
the ‘éoaft of China, havé ghnoft always ‘points even 
with the water’s edge, and have occafioned many fhip- 


wrecks. init : : 
Out Board carried ‘ws back to the coat of Formofa, 
towards the ‘entrance of the bay of the old fort Zee- 
kûd*, où Which’ ftands the city of Taywan, the ca- 
pital of the ‘ifland. 1 was informed pf the revolt of 
the Chinefe- colony, and 1 knew an army 6f 20,000 
men pei Sh ‘againft it, under the command of the 
Santock o “Cain. “The N. E. monfoon, which ftill 
éontinued with violence, permitting me to facrifice'a 
few days to the pleafure Of Tearning the aft accounts 
of this event ; 1 dropped ahelior to the weft of this. 
bay in 17 fathoms water, alttough our boats had found 
ta fathoms at a league and ‘a half from the fhore. 
But 1 was aware that it is not allowed to approach 
too near to the ifland, that there were only feven feet 
water in the port of Taywan, and that, when thé Dutch: , 
Were in’ polieffion of it, their’ yeffels Were obliged to 
remain at the Pefcador iffands, where was an excel- 
lent ‘port which they had fortified. This circumftance 
rendered ‘me extremely undetermined .whether to fend 
a boat on fhore, as 1 could not have protééted it with 
my frigates, and it would probably have ‘been fufpéét- 
éd in the then ftate of war of the Chinefe colony. At 
belt, 1 could only expeé it to be fent back without | 
permiffion to land : whereas, fhould it be detained, 
my fituation would become extremely embarrafling, 
and the burning two or three /ampanes would have 
been a poor recompenfe for that misfortune. I there- 
fore endeavoured to entice the crews of fome Chinefe 
boats that approached us to come on board, and fhew- 
ed them fome piaftres, which I had found a power- 
ful loadftone for that nation ; but all ecmmunication 
with foreigners feemed. to be prohibited: yet it was 


= # The plan of this fort is annexed to a letter of Father Manilla. 
hi Jefuit. See rath Collection of Lettres Edifiantes.——French 
tor. 


evident 


CREER | TT NN 
CT oe ‘A Mh) \\ 


k 


REUAFF GED 
antes TT 
1 


faa bréezcs “having, per 
à tie northward fe. 


Re ae 
fail, ‘others riding. anchor. al tte 
ry great number in t river. À 
ee covered with flags, was fae 
€ anchored near the edge of the fang 


e-¢aitward .of our inn. Al 


| 6 LA PEROUSE’ 8 VOYAGE 


lights onall his mafts, which ferved as fignals ¢ tor 

cl many veflels that were fill to windward | Thef 
veflels being obliged to pafs near us to join their. 
modore, were very careful not to come a 
fhot ‘of us, uncertain whether’ we were’ friends 
enemies. The light of the moon permitted us to m 
thefe obfervations till midnight, and we never 
ardently defired that the weather fhould co 
clear, that we might fee the refult of thefe events. 
had defcried the peta oes iflands of the ys 

at bable ‘the C 


had we delay 

fky darkened at fot 

heavy gale, and the Boris odonger-adny: 
diftinguifhing the land. At break of day If 
‘Chinefe Admiral’s fhip run befure the windtow 
the river with fome other /umpanes (veffels) 
till perceived through the fog. 0 
under clofe-reefed top-fails and courfes. |’ 

was N. N.E. and I flattered *myfclf 1 thould 
the Pefcadors by ftanding to the N. 'W. To m 


aftonifhment, at nine in the morning, I perceived fe.  * 


veral rocks forming a part of this clufter of”iflands, 
which bore N. N. W., and the weather was fo hazy. 
that it was impoffible to diftinguifh them till we were 


very near. The breakers that furrounded them: were : x 


confounded with thofe occafioned ‘by the high waves. 
I had never feen a heavier fea in my life. I tacked., 
towards Formola again at nine o'clock in the morn= 


ing, 


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1787.| ROUND THE WORLD, : Ni 
ing, and at noon the Aftrolabe, being a-head :of 
us, made a fignal for 12 fathoms water’ while, the 
was wearing; when I immediately founded, and 
found 40 fathoms water. Thus in lefs than a quarter of: 
a league there is à variation from 40 to'12 fathoms,» 
and in all probability we fhould very foon have fhoaled: 
from 12 to two, fince the Aftrolable only found eight: 
fathoms while fhe was wearing, and that veffel was pro-. 
bably not four minutes jn running on that fhort board: 
This circumftance apprifed us that the channel bes: 
tween the iflands north-eaft of the Pefcadors, and 
the fand banks of Formofa was not more than four 
leagues wide. Confequently it would have been dan- 
gerous to have plied in it during the night in dread- 
ful weather, with an horizon of lefs than a league in! 
extent, and fo heavy a fea, that every time we wore 
with the wind aft, we were in danger of its breaking on 
board of us. Thefe various motives determined me 
to bear away, in order to run to the eaftward of 
Formofa. My inftruétions did not enjoin me to pafs. 
through the channel, and I was but tco well convinced: 
* that I fhould not fucceed in it before the changeof the 
monfoon, and as that period, which muft neceffurily be 
very near, is almoft uniformly preceded bya very heavy 
gale of wind, I deemed it better to encounter thofe 
fqualls out at fea, and I fhaped my courfe towards the 
fouthern iflands of the Pefcadors, which | made, bear 
ing W.S. W. Being obliged to adopt this meafure, 
I was defirous at leaft to reconnoitre thefe iflands as 
much as the bad weather would permit. Weran along ~ 
them at a diflance of two leagues, and they appeared 
to extend towards the fouth as far as 23° 12’, although 
the chart of Monf. Daprès la;s down the fouthernmoit 
13’ more to the north. We are not equally. certain 
of their limits towards the northward. The moft 
northerly that we obferved, exiends as far as 23° 25’, 
but we are uncertain whether there are not others {till 
further to the northward. 
B 4 Thefe 


8 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
Thefe’iflands are a heap of rocks in every variety 
of form. : One of them is an exaét counterpart of the 
Tower of Cordouan at the mouth of the river of Bour- 
deaux; and we might almoft aver, that the rock was 
cut by human hands. Among thefe little iflands we 
counted five of a moderate height, which had the ap- 
pearance of downs of fand ; but we did not perceive 
a fingle tree. In faét, the dreadful weather at that 
time rendered our obfervations very uncertain. The 
defcription of thefe ifles muft therefore be learnt from 
_ the Durch, who fortified the port of Pong-hou when 
they were mafters of Formofa. We know alfo that 
the Chinefe maintain a garrifon there, confifting of 
five or fix hundred Tartars, who are annually re- 
lieved. ' 

As the water became much fmoother under the lee 
of thefe iflands, we founded there feveral times. The 
bottom was fandy, and fo irregular, that the Aftrolabe, 
at a mufket-fhot from fhore, was in forty fathoms wa- 
ter, at the fame time that we were in twenty-four, and 
prefently after could not ftrike the ground. When 
night approached, I fhaped my courfe S. by E. and at 
the return of day I hauled up E. S. E. in order. to 
enter the channel between Formofa and the Bafhee 
Iflands. The next day we met with as ftrong a ‘gale 
as on the preceding evening, which, however, conti- 
aued only till ten o’clock at night. It was preceded 
by a heavy rain that could only be equalled between the 
tropics. The heavens were on fire during the whole 
night, and the moft vivid lightnings flafhed from every 
point of the horizon ; yet we heard but a fingle clap 
of thunder. We ran before the wind under our fore- 
fail, and fore and main topfails clofe recfed, fteering 
S. E. in order to double Vela-reta, which, according 
to the bearings we had taken before the clofe of the 
day of the fouthern point of Formofa, fhould have 
been four leagues to the eaftward of us. The wind 
blew conftantly from the N. W. during the ne 
night, 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 9 


night, but the clouds flew with the greateft rapi- 
dity to the Ss W. and a fog, which extended not 
above a hundred fathoms in height, followed the 
lower current of the wind. I had made the fame ob- 
fervation during feveral days. It hid not, however, 
determined me to ftand out to fea during this crifis 
of nature, thus announced by the winds, and which 
the full moon rendered ftill more probable. We were 


‘becalmed the whole of the following day, and in mid 


channel between the Bafhee Iflands and thofe of Botol 


‘Tabaco-xima. This channel is 16 miles wide, our 


obfervations having fixed the S. E. point of the latter 
in 21° 59’ N. lat. and 119° 32° E. long. The winds 
having permitted us to approach this ifland within 
two-thirds of a league, I diftinly perceived three 
villages on the fouthern coaft, and a canoe which 
feemed to be making towards us. 1 would willing- 
ly have paid a vifit to thefe villages, which in all 
probability were inhabited by a race of men fimilar 
to thofe of the Bafhees, whoin Admiral Dampier has 
defcribed as fo good and hofpitable; but the only 
bay that feemed to promife us anchorage was open 
to the S. E. winds, which appeared likely to blow 
very fhortly, fince the clouds drove with rapidity 
in that direction. In fact, towards midnight the 
wind fettled in that quarter, and permitted me to fteer 
N. E. by N. which is the direction M Daprès gives 
the ifland of Formofa as far as 23° 30%. We had 
founded feveral times on our approach to Botol Ta- 
baco-xima, and within half a league of land, without 
ftriking ground ; and every indication fhews, that if 
there is anchorage, it is extremely near the coaft. 
This ifland, on which no navigator ever landed, may 
be four leagues in circumference. It is feparated by 
a channel half a league in width from a {mall ifland 
or very great rock, whereon we perceived fome -little 
verdure, and a few bufhes, but which is neither inha- 
bited, nor habitable. . 
# The 


A À ri 2 we eee . _ - 
ee A Sn ae en RTE 
M - LAS Se ? * 


10 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE (1787, 


The ifland, however, appears to contain a confide- 
yable number of inhabitants, fince we counted three 
extenfive villages in the fpace of a league, Itis very 
woody from about one-third of its elevation, taken be- 
tween the water’s edge and its fummit, which appear. 
ed crowned with trees of the largeft fize. ‘The declivity 
of the fpace between thefe forefts and the beach is 
very rapid. It was covered withthe molt beautiful 
verdure, and in many places cultivated, though fur- 
rowed by the torrents that defcend from the moun- 
tains. 1 believe Botol Tabaco-xima may be feen at a 
diftance of 15 leagues when the fky is clear ; but ths 
ifland is very often covered with fogs, and it fhould 
feem Lord Anfon only obferved .the {mall ifland juit 
mentioned, which is not half fo high. After having 
doubled this ifland, we directed our courfe tothe N.N. 
E. with conftant attention during the night, to obferve 
if any land prefented itfelf before us. A ftrong north- 
erly current prevented our knowing with any certain. 
_ty the way we made ; but a very fine moon and the 
minuteft attention protected us againit the inconveni- 
encies of navigating in an archipelago very little 
known by geographers; for it is only known by a 
letter of Father Gaubil, a miflionary, who had learnt 
fome particulars. of the kingdom of Liqueo, and its 
thirty-fix iflands, from an ambaflador of the king of 
that country, with whom he was acquainted at Pekin, 

It is evident how infufficient to navigation are de- 
terminations of longitude and latitude on {uch data. 
It is, however, a great advantage to know that there 
exift iflands or rocks in the parts where we are failing. 
On the sth of May, at one o’clock in the morning, we 
difcove ed an ifland bearing N,N.E. We paffed the 
reft of the night under eafy fail, ftanding off and'on, and 
at break of day I endeavoured to have the ifland bear- 
ing W. at half a league diftance. We founded: fre, 
quently, but as yet found no bottom. We foon had 
{ufficient proof that the ifland was inhabited, for we 

faw 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 11 
faw fires in feveral places, and herds of cattle paffing 
along the fhore. As foon as we had doubled its weft. 
ernmott point, which is the moft beautiful and beft in. 
habited part of the ifland, feveral canoes left the coaft 
to obferve us. We feemed to infpire them with tho 
greate(t terror; for though their curiofity brought 
them within mufket-thot, their fears made them ime 
mediately fly from us with precipitation. At length our 
ciies, ouf geltures, our fignals of peace, and the fight 
of fome mativfactures induced two of them to come on 
board, when 1 ordered a piece of nankeen and fome 
medals be given to each, We perceived that they 
had not left the coaft with any view to trade with us, 
for they hid nothing to offer us in exchange for our 
prefents. They fattened a bucket of frefh water to a 
rope, making at the fame time a fign that they did not 
think they had difcharged the obligation, but that 
they wold go on fhore and return with provifions, 
expreffing this intention by putting their hands to 
their mouth. Before they had come alongfide, they 
had placed their hands on their belly, and raifed their 
arms towards heaven. We repeated thefe figns, on 
which they came*on board, but with a diftruft which 
their phyfiognomy never ceafed to exprefs. They in- 
vited us however th come nearer the fhore, making 
figns that we fhould want for nothing. ‘lhefeiflanders 
are neither Chinefe nor Japanefe: fituated between 
thefe two empires, they feem in fome refpects anala- 
gous to each. They were drefled in a callico fhirt 
and drawers, their hair turned up on the crown of 
their head, and rolled round a bodkin, which appear- 
ed to be gold; and they had each a poniard with a 
handle of the fame metal. Their canoes were hol- 
lowed trees, which they managed very badly. I with- 
ed to have gone afhore, but ay we had brought to in or- 
der.to wait tor their canoes, and the current drifted us 
to the northward with extreme ra;idity, we had fallen 
mu.h to leeward, and we might have in vain attempted 
to 


12 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [ 1787. 


to near it again; nor had we a moment to lofe, as it 
was of great importance to quit the fea of Japan be- 
fore the month of June, when the ftorms and hurri- 
canes commence, which render thofe feas the molt 
dangerous in the wniverfe. 

It is evideat that veffels which had been long at 
fea might procure wood, water, and provifions in this 
ifland, and even perhaps trade there in a fmall degree. 
But as it is fcarcely three or four leagues in cir- 


cumference, it is not probable its population fhould . 


exceed four or five hundred, and a few gold bodkins 
are not a proof of confiderable riches. I have conti. 
nued to diftinguifh this ifland by the name of Kumi, 
and in the chart of Father Gaubil, where it is laid 
down nearly in the fame latitude and longitude as our 
obfervations, which fix it in 24° 33’ N. lat. and 120° 
56’ E. long. In that chart Kumi is one of a clufter 
of feven or eight iflands, of which it is the moft wefter. 
ly, and is feparated from thofe fuppofed to lie eaft of it 
by channels from eight to ten leagues wide, for our 
horizon was of that extent without leeing land. Ac- 
cording to the defcription of Father Gaubil of the 
great ifland of Liqueo, the capital of all the iflands 
ealtward of Formofa, I am led to believe that the 
Europeans would be received there, and that they 
might carry or a trade equally advantageous with 
that of Japan. + 

At one o’clock in the afternoon I crouded fail, and 
ftood tothenorthward without waiting the returnof the 
iflanders, who had. fignified that they would prefently 
bring us fome provifions. We had {till plenty, and a 
fair wind now invited us not to lofe fo precious an op- 
portunity. I therefore continued my courfe to the 
northward under a croud of fail, and we had loft fight 
of Kumi by funfet, though the fky was clear, and our 
horizon feemed to have an extent of ten. leagues. 
During the night I kept under eafy fail, and brought 
to at two inthe morning, after having run five leagues, 
fuppofing 


D © wte kw 


787. 
is it 
| be- 
drris 
noft 


y at 
this 
Tee. 
cir- 


ould | 


kins 
oNtis 
umi, 
laid 
our 
120? 
after 
fter- 
of it 
our 
Ace 
the 
ands 
the 
hey 
ith 


and 
the 
ntly 
da 
Op- 
the 
ight 
our 
es. 
ight 


ues, 


1787 ] ROUND THE WORLD. 13 


fuppofing the current to have carried us ten or twelve 
miles a-head of our réckoning. At day break I de- 
{cried an ifland bearing N. N. E. and feveral rocks or 
fmalliflands further to the eaftward. 1 fteered a courfe 
to pals to the weftward of this ifland, which is circu- 
lar, and well wooded towards that fide. 1 paffed it 
at a diftance of a mile without finding bottom, and 
perceived notraces of any human habitation, it is f6 
{teep that I do not even think it habitable. Its extent 
may be two miles in diameter, or as many leagues in 
circumference. While we were abreaft of it, we dif- 
covered a fecond ifland of the fame fize, equally 
woody, and nearly of the fame form, though fome- 
what lefs elevated. {It bore N. N. E. and between 
thefe iflands were five clufters of rocks, round which 
hovered an immenfe number of ‘birds. I have con- 
tinued to this latter the name of Hoapinfu, and to that. 
more to the N. N. E. that of Tiaoyu-/x, which the 
fame miffionary has given to the iflands tying eaft of 
the northermoft point of Formofa, and which are laid 
down in the chart much farther to the fouthward than 
according to our obfervations *, which place Hoa- 
pinfu in 25° 44’ N. lat. and 121° 14’ E. long. and that 
of Tiaoyu-fu in 25° 55’ N. lat. and 121° 27’ E. long. 

We had now quitted the archipelago of the iflands 
of Liqueo, and were entering a more open fea between 
Japan.and China, where fome geographers affirm there 
are foundings every where. This obfervation is exact, 
But it was only in 24° 4’ that we had 70 fathoms, 
and from that latitude till beyond the Streights of Ja- 
pan we always got bottom. ‘The coaft of China is fo 
flat, that in 31 deg. we were only in twenty-five fa- 
thoms water, at more than thirty leagues from the 
coaft. I had propofed at my departure from Manilla 


* The chart of Father Gaubil lays down a third ifland N. W. of 
Hoapinfu, called Pongkiachan, and nearly at the fame diftance. from 
itas Tiaoyu-fu. If this ifland exiits, it is furprifing, La Pérouse 
did not fee it. See Lettres Edifiantes, 28th Colicction.—French 
Editor. .* 


to 


14 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787: 
to reconnoitre the entrance of the Yellow Sea to 
the northward of Nankin, fhould circumftances ad- 
mit of .my devoting fome weeks to it. But in all 
events it was important to the fuccefs of my ultimate 
plans, to be at the mouth of the Streights of Japan 
before the 20th of May ; and I AA La ds on the 
northern coaft of China obftacles which permitted me 
only to make feven or eight leagues a day. The fogs 
were as thick and conftant as on the coaft of Labrador. 
The winds, which were very light, never varied but 
from N. E. toE, and we were often in a dead calm 
obliged to bring up, and to make fignals to continue 
at anchoï, becaufe we did not perceive the Aftrolabe, 
although fhe was within hail. The cutrents alfo 
were {0 ftrong, that we could not keep a lead to 
the ground to inform us whether we drove; and 
though the tide only ran at the rate of three knots an 
hour, its direétion was incalculable, becaufe it changed 
every moment, and ran all round the compafs in 
twelve hours, without one moment of flack water. | 
During ten or twelve days we had but for one inftant 
a clear fky, that permitted us to obferve a fmall ifland 
or rock in 30° 45’ N. lat. and 121° 26’ E. long. and 
immcdiately it thickened again, fo that we knew not 
whether it was contiguous to the continent, or fepa- 
rated from it by a wide channel : for we had not one 
view of the coaft, and our leaft depth of water was 
twenty fathoms. 

On the igth of May; after a forthight’s calm, 
with a thick fog, the wind became fixed at N. W. 
and blew hard. The fky was. dull and watery, but 
the horizon extended feveral leagues. The fea, which 
had till then been perfectly fmooth, now became ex- 
tremely heavy. I was at anchor in twenty-five fa- 
thoms water at the moment of this change. I made 
the fignal to get under way, and fteered, without lofing 
a moment, N. E. by E. towards the ifland of Quel- 
paert, which was the firft interelting land-fall before we 
entered 


1787: 
ea to 
3 ad- 
in all 
imate 
Japan 
n'the 
sd me 
e fogs 
ador. 
d but 
calm 
tinue 
abe, 
; alfo 
ad to 
- and 
ts an 
inge 

fs in 


vater. . 


utant 
fland 
. and 
w not 
| epa=- 
one 

was 


alm, 


le + 

but 
rhich 
e EX- 

fa- 
| ade 
ing 
Duel- 


e we 
ered 


787.1 ROUND, THE WORLD., 15 : 


entered the Streights of Japan. This ifland, which is 
only known to Europeans by the fhipwreck of the 
Dutch fhip the Sparrow-hawk, in 1635, was at that 
period under the dominion of the King of Corea. We 
made it on the 21 ft of May, in the cleareft weather 
poflible, and in circumftances the moft favourable for 
Junar obfervations. We fixed the fouthernmoft point 
in 330 14’ N. lat, and 124° 15’ E. long. I coafted 
the S. E. part of it at two leagues difiance, and fur: 
veyed with the greateft care an extent of coaft of 
twelve leagues, of which Mr. Bernizet has made a 
draught. It is fcarcely poffible to find an ifland which 
prefents a more beautiful appearance: a peak about 
6000 feet high, and which may be perceived at a dif- 
tance of from eighteen to twenty leagues, rifes in the 
centre of the ifland, whofe refervoir, no doubt, it 
forms. Its furface is a gentle declivity to the fea, 
from whence the habitations refemble an amphi- 
theatre. The foil appeared cultivated to a. very 
great height. We perceived, by means of our glaffes, 
the divifions of the fields, which being very fmall, 
prove the ifland very populous. The varying fhades 
of the different fpecies of cultivation, gave it a ftill 
more agreeable afpect. Unfortunately it belongs 
to a nation to whom every .kind of communication 
with ftrangers is prohibited, and who retain in flavery 


- thofe who have the misfortune to be fhipwrecked on 


their coaft. Some Dutchmen who were on board 
the Sparrow-hawk, after a captivity of eighteen years, 
during which they were frequently baftonadoed, found 
means to run away With a boat to Japan, and from 
thence to Batavia and Amfterdam. With this exam- 
ple before us, we felt no inclination to fend a boat on 
fhore. Though we obferved two canoes put off from 
the ifland, they did not come within a league of us, 
and it is probable their only obje& was to obferve 
us, and perhaps to give the alarm on the coaît of 
Corea. 

I con 


— eras Ce re — 
nement nee 


Se 


16 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 

I continued my courfe till midnight N. E. by E.; 
and then lay to till daybreak, when the weather was 
hazy,’ but without thick fog. 1 perceived the'N. E. 
point of the ifland of Quelpaert bearing weft, and I 
fteered N.N. E. in order to approach Corea. We 
did not omit to found every hour, and found from 60 
to 70 fathoms water. At day-break we difcovered va- 
rious illands or rocks forming a chain of more than 15 
leagues off that continent, and lying nearly N. E. and 


S. W. Our obfervations place the moft northerly in | 


300 15’ N. lat., and 127° 7’ E. long. A thick fog 
concealed the coaft, which is not more than 5 or 6 
leagues beyond them. We got fight of-it the next day, 
about 11 o’clock in the morning, when it appeared 
behind the fmall iflands or rocks by which ‘it was 
fkirted. Two leagues to the fouthward of thefe iflands 
we had conftantly from 30:to 35 fathoms water, over 
a muddy bottom. The fky was continually dull 
and watery, but the fun pierced through the fog, 
and we were enabled to take the moft accurate 
obfervations of latitude and longitude: a circumftanc+ 
of the greateft importance to geography, no Eur: 
pean fhip ‘having ever navigated in thefe feas. “They 
are laid down in our charts according to the Japan- 
nefe or Corean maps, publifhed by the Jefuits: It is 
true, théfe miffionaries have correéted them by their 
Jand journeys, which they laid down with great care, 
and compared with very accurate obfervations made at 
Pekin. Thus their errors are very inconfiderable; 
and we muft acknowledge that they have rendered an 
effential fervice to the geography of that part of Afia 
with which they alone have made us acquainted, and 
of which they have furnifhed us with charts very near 
the truth. Navigators have ‘therefore now only to 
defire fuch hydrographical details, as could not be laid 
down in a map, becaufe the Jefuits travelled by land. 

On the 25th we paffed the Streights of Corea in the 
night. We had fet, after fun-fet, the coaft of Ja, 


pan, - 


[1787. 
. by E.; 
her was 
e'N. E. 
» and I 
a, We 
rom 60 
ered va- 
than 16 
. E,and 
herly in . 
ick fog 
1 5 or 6 
ext day, 
ppeared 
it was 
e Hands 
er, over 
Hy dull 
the fog, 
Accurate 
mftanc 
» Eur: 

‘They 
: Japan- 
3; «Tt is 
by their 
sat care, 
made at 
Jerable; 
lered an 
of Afia 
ed, and 
ery near 
only to 
t be laid 
by land. 
2a in the 
| of Ja, 
pan, - 


CHU E CLONE Ou TER UNE HY Ayu! | 
| | 


Il 
| | | i 
{ | THe TTL LL PETRI EEE NET TONER ET CORTE TETHER Cn ce 


1787.) ’ ROUND THE WORLD. 17 
‘pam which exterids from E.by N. to E.S. E. and 
om that of Corea, from N. W. toN. The fea appeared 
"very open to the N.E, anda heavy fwell coming m that 
direction, confirmed mé in this opinion. The wind 
Ahlew fom the S..E. a moderate breeze, andthe night 

2 A ver clear. We ran before the wind under very 
“ jail, making only two knots: an hour, in’ or: 

We | fo. recognize at day bréak the bearings we had 

‘take the preceding evening, and’ to make an ‘exa@ 
Sehart of the ftrait. Our: bearings, corrected’ by’ thé 

“@bfervations of M. Dagelet, have accomplifhed all that 
‘eam Be defired with regard to the accuracy of the plan 
 Ayerbat We founded every half hour, and as 
aft of Corea appeared: to be more interefting than 

am, E approached: within two leagues of it, 
ed ¢ourfe parallel to its. direétion. 
\annek that FEAR her of ‘Japan from. 
hent fic wide; Ap ri à 


shiek: ree, had doubled à de \ Bi fai 
«-peninfila, fo chat “+ A were able take 


nil to Europ forts. Te is highly 

“probéble the” princ hl!means of defence employed 
by: th Coreans, are directed againft the Japantfe: 
part of the coaft is very favourable to navigation, 

there appears no caufe of danger, and at three 

ques in.the offing the depth of water is 6o: fathoms’ 
over atnuddy b tom; but the country is mountainous;: 

| and! appears very arid. The fnow was not entirely’ 
melted'am fome hollows, and the foil feemed but little: 
fufeeptible of cultivation. The habitations are, how 
ever, very numerous. We counted a dozen Jampares, 
 orjuaks; failing along: the coa(t, and feeming in né re- 
“Ape, to differ fromithofe of China, their fails being alfo- 
«Vu. IT, C made 


18 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
made of matting. The fight of our fhips feemed to oc: 
cafion them no apprehenfion ; though, it is true, they 
were very near the land; and might reach it before 
they could be brought to, had our movements excited 
any fear of danger. I was very defirous they fhould 
venture to come along fide of us, but they continued 
their courfe without taking any notice of us; and the 
phenomenon we afforded them, however new, did not 
even attract their attention. At 11 o’clock, however, 
I faw two boats fet fail in order to reconnoitre us. 
They came within a league of us, followed us during 
two hours, and then returned into the port from which 
they had put off in the morning: and it is probable we 
caufed an alarm on the coaft, as, in the afternoon, 
we obferved fires lighted on every point of land. 

This day (the 26th) was one of the fineft we ens 
joyed during this voyage, as well as the moft in- 
terefting, on account of the obfervations we made 
of an extent of coaft of above 30 leagues. Note 
withftanding this fine weather the barometer fell 
to 27 inches 10 lines. But as it had often deceived 
us, we coritinued till midnight on the fame courfe 
along the coaft, which we diftinguifhed by the light 
of the moon. - The wind then chopped about with 
confiderable violence from fouth to north, without an- 
nouncing this fudden change by a fingle cloud. The 
fky, though before clear and ferene; now become 
very black, and | was obliged to ftand off to fea, to 
avoid being embayed by the eafterly winds. Though 
the clouds had not given us notice of this change, 
yet we had an indication, which, at the time, we did 
not underftand, and which it is not perhaps very eafy : 
to explain. - The watch called down from the round- 
top, that they felt burning vapours like that from the 
mouth of an oven, which came in puffs, and fuc- 
ceeded one another at the interval of half a minute. 
All the officers went aloft and experienced the fame 
heats. The thermometer was, at that time, at 14° 

upon 


to OCs 
, they 
before 
xcited 
fhould 
tinued 
nd the 
lid not 
Wevers 
ire us. 
luring 
which 
ble we 
rnoon, 
] 


we ene 
oft in- 
- made 

Not- 
er fell 
eceived 
courfe 
e light 


t with 


out an- 
The 
become 
fea, to 
hough 
hange, 
we did 


round- 
om the 
id fuc- 
inute. 
e fame 
at 14° 
upon 


1787. 


pry eafy : 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, ~ 19 
upon deck. We fent a thermometer aloft to the crofs- 
trees, where it rofe to 20°deg. In the mean while 
the puffs of hot vapour paffed very rapidly; though, 
in the intervals, the temperature was the fame as on a 
level with the fea. 

We experienced, during this night, a gale of wind 


_ from the north, and though it lafted only feven or eight 


hours, the fea was very heavy. As the channel between 
Corea and Japan muft be of a confiderable width in 
this latitude, we had no caufe of apprehenfion from 
bad weather. The next day I again approached 
‘within three leagues of the coaft. It was free from 
fog, and we recognized the points we had fet the pre- 
ceding evening. Notwithftanding the ftrength of the 
wind, we had gained a little to the northward; and 
the coaft began to trend tothe N. N. W. Thus we 
had failed beyond the eafternmoft part, and determined 
the moft interefting portion of the coaft of Corea. 
I thought, therefore, I ought now to dire&t my courfe 
for the S. W. point of the ifland of Niphon, of which 
Captain King had accurately obferved the N. E. point, 
or Cape Nabo. Thefe two points ought to clear up 
the doubts of geographers, who will now only have to 
exercife their ingenuity in filling up the intermediate 
coaft. On the 27th [| made the fignal to bear away 
to the eaftward; and I prefently perceived, bearing 
N.N.E., an ifland not laid down on any chart, and 
which appeared about 20 leagues diftant from the 
coaft of Corea. I endeavoured to approach it, but 
it was precifely in the wind’s eye. Fortunately the 
wind changed during the night, and I fteered a courfe, 
at day-break, fo as to reconnoitre this ifland, to which 
I gave the name of J/le Dagelet, from the aftronomer 
who firft difcovered it. It fcarcely exceeds three 
leagues in circumference. 1 ran along it, and failed 
almoft round it at the diftance of a mile, without 
finding bottom. I then hoifted out a boat under the 
command of M. Boutin, with orders to found as far as 
the fhore. He did not ftrike ground with a 20 fa- 
C2 thom 


a 


20 LA PRROUSE’S VOYAGE [r787. 
thom line till on the edge of the waves that broke 
upon the coaft, and about 200 yards from the ifland, 
whofe N. E. point lies in 37° 25’ N. lat., and 129° 2 

. long. It is very fteep, but is covered from its fum- 
mit to the water's edge with the fineft trees, A ram- 
part of bare rock almoft as perpendicular as a walk 
entirely furrounds it, with the exception of feven lit- 
tle fandy creeks. where it is poflible toland. In thefe 
creeks, we perceived: fome boats upon the ftocks,. 
exactly on the Chinefe model. The fight of our 
fhips, which paffed within an eafy gun fhot, had 
doubtlefs. frightened the workmen, who fled into the: 
wood, from which their thip-yard was about 50 paces 
diftant. We faw nothing more except fome huts,, 
which, neither formed a village, nor were furround- 
ed by. any appearance of cultivation. Hence it is 
probable that the fhipwrights of Corea, which is not 
more than 20 leagues from this ifland, come hither in: 
fammer with their provifions, to build boats, which 
they fell upon the continent. This opinion almoft 
appears a certainty : for as foon. as we had doubled the 
wefternmoft point, the workmen of another boat- 
yard, who could not till then fee our fhips, which that 
point intercepted, were furprifed by us near their 
timber’ at work upon their boats ; and we faw them: 
all fly to the woods, except two'or three, who did not 
appear to be at all alarmed. I was defirous of find- 
ing anchorage, in order to convince thefe people, by a 
difplay of kindnefs, that we were not enemies. But 
the violence of the current drove us off the land, night 
approached, and the fear of being carried to leeward, 
and of riot being rejoined by the boat I had fent off 
with M. Boutin, obliged me to make a fignal for him 
to come on board, at the very moment when he was 
about to land. I hauled towards the Aftrolabe, the 
currents having drifted her confiderably to the weft- 
ward, and we pañled the night in a calm, the height 
of the mountains of Dagelet Ifland intercepting the 
fea breeze. | CHAP. 


[r787. 
t broke 
‘ifland, 
129° 2 
ts fum- 
À ram- 
3a walk 
ven lit- 
In thefe 
ftocks,. 
of our 
ot, had 
into the: 
0 paces 
ne huts,, 
rround- 
ce it 15: 
h is not 
uther in 
3, which 
n almoft 
bled the 
er boat- 
ich that 
at their 
w them: 
did not 
of find- 
ple, by a 
ss. But 
id, night 
leeward,’ 
| fent off 
il for him 
n he was 
labe, the 
the weft- 
re height 
ting the 
CHAP.. 


LIN 
ji Hh IK 


| 


Ag 
ai 
fl if ll ’ 


(] 
pli "> 
yt 
hy 


TT CS UE RE 
| 
Hetil | 


‘a ul rN 
LR “oe | 
4, on,” mS 


LUTTE = 
7 “ whi — Ni | 


1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 


CHAP. XVII. 


joUrk TOWARDS THE WORTH WEST PART OF JAPAN, 


~) #if2W or CAPE NOTO, AND THE ISLAND OF JooTSt- 
| @IMA—DETAILS REGARDING THIS JSLAND—LATI- 


/ TUDE AND LONGITUDE OF THIS PART OF JAPAN— 


eR MEET With SEVERAL JAPANESE AND citI- 
+) ESEVESSELS—WE RETURN TOWARDS THE CoAsT 


\) do valüablé, that-had 1 nôt conf ; 
_ amportatice,’ to determine one or two points of thé . 
velteen conftf the ifland of Niphoa, L fhould Have 


> ob tARrixy, win we MARE 1ù 420 NORTH LAT. 

MW PUT INTO THE BAY oF TERWAI—DEBCRIP- 

vi Bg THE COUNTRY AND its PRODUCTIONS— 
WE OB 


UNDER WAY AFTER À SrAŸ OF THREE 


à )) pats—we Pur iNro THE BAY Or'AUFFREN. 


MN the 30th May, 1787, the witid having fettiea 
Pat 8. S E. I fhaped my courfet5 the’ eaftward 
Vars Japan: but I apftoiched it by very Mort days 
and the wind was fo conftanily oppofite, and titne 
dered it of the gréäteft 


es: 


ry tf Allo hed that furvey altogether, and have run be- 
are the Winid tothe coaft of Tartaty, On the dd June, 


She 


22 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
She had beams on her ftem which projected, and 
were painted green. _ Her boat placed athwart her 
bows, exceeded by feven or eight feet the breadth of 
the veffel, which had in other refpects a very ordinary 
fheer, a flat poop with two fmall windows, and very 
little carved work ; and had no other refemblance to 
- Chinefe junks than that of faftening her helm by 
cords. Her fide gallery, rofe but two or three feet 
above her water line, and the extremities of the boat 
muft have touched the water as the veffel rolled. 
Every thing indicated that thefe veffels were not in- 
tended to go far from the coaft. They could not be 
fafe in a heavy fea during a gale of wind. Probably the 
Japanefe have other veffels for winter, better calcu- 
Jated to contend with bad weather. We pafled this 
veffel near enough to obferve the countenances of her 
crew, which expreffed neither fear nor furprife. They 
did not change their courfe till they came within 
piftol fhot of the Aftrolabe, and were in fear of falling 
aboard of her. ‘They had a {mall white Japanefe flog, 
on which were fome words written vertically, and 
her name was infcribed on a kind of drum by the 
fide pf the enfign ftaff. The Aftrolabe hailed her as 
fhe pañled, but we neither ,underftood ‘her anfwer, 
nor her crew our queftion: and fhe continued her 
courfe to the fouthward, haftening no doubt, to an- 
nounce her meeting with two foreign fhips, in feas 
where no European veffel had ever been feen before, : 
On the fourth in the morning in 133° 17’ E. long. 
and 379 13’ N. lat., we thought we faw land. But 
the weather was extremely foggy, and our horizon 
was foon confined to a quarter of a league at the 
moft. It then blew very freth from the fouthward, and 
the barorncter had fallen half an inch in twelve hours. 
At firit I was willing to bring to, in hopes that the 
fky would clear up, but the wind frefhened ftill more 
in the afternoon. The mizen top-maft was blown 
away, we handed the topfails and lay to under the 
| forefail, 


(1787. 
d, and 
rt her 
adth of 
‘dinary 
d very 
ince to 
elm by 
ee feet 
1e boat 
rolled. 
not in- 
not be 
bly the 
calcu- 
ed this 
of her 

They 
within 
‘falling 
fe fl:g, 
ly, and 
by the 
| her as 
infwer, 
ied her 
to an- 
in feas 
before. © 
:. long. 
1. But 
horizon 
at the 
ard, and 
> hours, 
that the 
ill more 
. blown 
der the 
forefail, 


{ ‘ 
4 


| 


\ ul 


Pa "A à 
ee. 
Mi 


i 
| | 
| 
| 
4 
| 


! 

{ 

EU 

fi t 

ii | 

Ht) AB 

III ih 

{ { 

| | 

\ 

‘ 

mf 
LEUR: 
i | 
(ay H 
! | | 
' } } 

Hen) | 
git 
| i 
i ay 1 
Bit { 
| { 
ih 
! 
ah { 
ae 
j “hh 
| 
j H 
| | 1} 
ri | } 
' 
if} i} 
| H 
{ 
| } 
| 
{ 

{} { 
| 1 
1 | À 
i | | 
| 
{ iy i 
| Nu à 
EI | 
| at 
i 

if } 
| ip 1 
{ rh 
H i 
À } \y 

| j 
| | | 
| i 
| ! 1 
i BE | 
j | 
i j 

5 
} t 

Î 
’ 


"mm ey ed 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 23 


forefail. _ At different parts of the day we perceived 
~ feven Chinefe veffels, mafted like that I have fcribed, 


«but without fide galleries; and though fmaller, bet. 


ter calculated to encounter bad weather. They were. 


A exactly fimilar to thofe feen by Captain King, during 
~~ Cook’s. third voyage, having like them, three black 


_.. ftreaks in the concavity of their fail, and being thirty — 
: er forty tons burden with a crew of eight men, SWwhik ë. 
. theviolence af the windcontinued we fawoneaground, 
. cher matt, naked like thofe of chaffe-marées, wasibraced 
~~" bytwofhroudsand a ftay carried to the flem, for thefe 
» wefféls have no bowfprit, but only an upright fpar 
eight or ten feet high, from which the Chinefe rig a 
» fmall fore-fail like that of a boat. All thefe junks 
 ranclofe to the wind with their larbnard tacks on 
board, fteering W. S. W., and it is probable, they 
were not far from the land, fince thefe veffels never 
fail but along the coaft. The next day which 
: | Was extremely foggy, we-perceived ‘two: tr ore Japas 
nefe veffels : ‘onan was not ‘till the fixth, that 


made Cape Noto and th 


“+ ‘without a name, 


: which is: feparated- from it by a char 
Des a ye ‘The: ds ner was clear, 
d though fix leagues from 


aw as ifland lying to the ee of Noto; La Péroufé gives | 
: the fare name to another ifland lat ra a ee cg tothe — 
IN: E. of that Cape, and which is laid down in allthe pir non 


know not whether this proceeds from an errer of La Péroufe, Ù 
but E thought it neceffary to caution the reader againft a miftake 
thätmight arife from two iflands of the fame name, being laid 
à or fo near the fame Cape. French Editors 


C4 ie fathoms, 


24 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 
fathoms, over a bottom of rock and coral. At two 
o’clock we faw the ifland of Jootfi-fima bearing N. 
E., I fhaped my courfe along its weftern coaft, and 
was prefently obliged to haul our wind in order 
to weather the breakers fo. dangerous in the fogs, 
which at this feafon, almoft conftantly conceal the 
northern coaft of Japan. A league and a half from 
thefe breakers we had ftill fixty fathoms water over 
a rocky bottom, and could not think of anchoring 
there, except in a cafe of extreme neceflity. This 
ifland is finail and flat; but well wooded, and wears 
a very pleafing appearance. I believe its circum: 
ference does not exceed two leagues. It appeared, 
to us extremely populous, and we remarked among 
its buildings fome edifices of confiderable magnitude. 
Near a fort of, caftle on its S. W. point, we diftin- 
guifhed a gallows, or at leaft, fome pillars with a large 
beam laid acrofs, which might, however, be deftined 
for a very different purpofe. It would be fingular 
if the Japanefe cuftoms, in general fo different 
from ours, fhould coincide with them in this refpect. 
We had no fooner doubled the ifland of Jootf- 
fima, than we were inftantly envelloped in a cloud of 
the thickeft fog. Fortunately we had found time 
to take excellent bearings of the coaft of Japan to the 
fouthward of Cape Noto, as far as another cape be- 
yond which we perceived nothing. 

Our obfervations of latitude and longitude were 
as compleat as we could defire, and our time-piece 
No. 19, had continued perfectly accurate fince our 
departure from Manilla. Thus Cape Noto on, the 
coaft of Japan, is a point on which geographers may 
rely, and, together with Cape Nabo on the eaftern 
coaft, determined by Captain King, will give the 
breadth of that empire toward the north. Our ob- 
fervations will render a ftill more effential fervice ta 
geography, for they will determine the breadth of the 
fea of Tartary, towards which I directed my D 

+ ne 


1787. 
t two 
ng N. 
, and 
order 
fogs; 
il the 
from 
| over 
orin 

This 
wears 
‘cum: 
eared, 
mong’ 
itude. 
liftin~ 
large. 
ftined 
gular 


ferent | 


fpect, 

ootfi- 
ud of 
time 
to the 
e be- 


were 
piece 
e our 
n, the 
3 may 
tern 
e the 
a ob: 
ce ta 
of the 
Jurfe. 


The 


1787. “ROUND THE WORLD. 23 


The céaft of Japan which runs away: veyond Caps 
Noto fixty leagues to the eaf@vard, and the conti- 
nual fogs that hover over thefe iflands, might perhaps 
have caufed the reft of the feafon to elapfe before we 
could coaft along and take the bearings of the Ifle-of 
Niphon, as far as Cape Sangaär. We had a much 
larger field of difcovery to explore on the coaft of 
Tartarÿ and in thé ftrait of Tefloy, and I therefore 
thought it neceflary, not to lofe a moment in arriving 
there as foon as poflible. Nor had I any other object _ 
in view ifi'reconnoitring the coaft of Japan, than to 
fix the true‘limits of the fea of Tartary from north to 
fouth. Our obfervations place Cape Noto in 37° 36” 
N. lat. and 135° 34’ E, long.; the ifland of Jootfi- 
fima in 37° 51 N. lat. and 135° 20’ E. long. an iflet 
or rock to the weftward of Cape Noto, in 37° 36’ N, 
lat. and 735° 14’ E. long., and the fouthernmoft 
point within fight on the ifland of Niphon, in "7 
18’ N, lat. and 135° 5’ E. long. 

Thefe fhort obfervations, which will appear very 
dry to the majority of our readers, coft us ten days of 
moft laborious navigation in the midft of fogs. But 
we doubt not, geographers will deem our time well 
employed, and will only regret that the vaft extent of. 
our projected voyage did not admit of our reconnois 
tring, and determining a greater number of points on 
this coaft, and particularly towards the fouth-weft 
part of it, from which the true limits of the ftrait, 
which feparates that empire from Corea might have 
been delineated. We have taken the bearings of 
the coaft of this peninfula with the greateft accuracy, 
as far as the point where it ceafes to run to the.N. 
E. and purfues a wefterly direction, which obliged us 
to get into the 37th degree north. The‘moft conftant 
and obftinate fouth winds oppofed our intention of fee- 
ing and determining the fouthernmoft and weftern- 
moft points of the ifland of Niphon. : The fame winds 
continued till we were in fight of the coaft of Tar- 

tary, 


26 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 
tary, which we defcried on the 11th of June. The 
‘weather had cleared up on the preceding evening, 
‘The barometer had fallen to 27 inches feven lines, 
and there remained ftationary, and yet it was during 
the time it remained at that point, that we enjoyed 
the two fineft days we had experienced throughout 
the voyage. That inftrument, fince our departure 
from Manilla, had fo often given us juft prognoftica- 
tions that we forgave its occafional deviations : from 
thefe, hawever, it appears that there is a ftate of the 
atmofphere which, without caufing either rain or 
wind, produces a confiderable variation in the baro- 
meter. That of the Aftrolabe was at the {fame point 
as ours, and it appears, that a long courfe of obferva- 
tions are. yet wanting, in order to teach us the lan- 
guage of this inftrument, which in general may be of 
reat ufe in contributing to the fecurity of navigation, 
hat of Nairne with his ingenious mode of fufpenfion, 
is incomparably fuperior to every other. The point 
of the coaft where we made our land fall, is precifely 
‘that which feparates Corea from Mantchou Tartary, 
It is a very high land which we defcried on the 11th 
ata diftance of 20 leagues. It extended frorn the N. 
'N. W.to N.E. by N., appearing in different ranges, 
and the mountains, though not fo elevated as thofe of 
America, are at leaft fix or feven hundred toifes high, 
We only begun to get foundings at four leagues from 
fhore, where the depth of water was 180 fathoms, 
over a bottom of muddy fand : and at one Jeague from 
‘the fhore it was fiill 84 fathoms. 1 approached within 
that diftance of the coaft, which was extremely fteep, 
but covered with trees and verdure. We faw fnow 
on the fummits of the higheft mountains, though in 
very fmall quantities; but we perceived no traces of 
cultivation or inhabitants : and we imagined that the 
Mantchou Tartare, who are wandering fhepherds, ne- 
glectedthefe mountains and forefts, for plains and yal- 
Jeys, where their flocks could enjoy a more abundant 
pafturage. 


[1787. 
The 
ening, 
lines, 
during 
njoyed 


barture 
oftica- 
: from 
of the 
ain or 
baro- 
point 
Dferva- 
e lan- 
y be of 
se pal 
nfion, 
> point 
ecifely 
artary, 
> Lith 
he N. 
anges, 
jofe of 
high, 
s from 
homs, 
> from 
vithin 
fteep, 
{now 
gh in 
ces of 
at the 
Ss, ne- 
d val- 
ndant 
rage. 


ighout 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 27 


pafturage. Throughout this extent of coaft of more 
than 40 leagues, we did not meet with the mouth of a 
fingle river. I fhould have been defirous, however, of 
touching there that our botanifts and mineralogifts 
might obferve the foil and its productions; had not the 
coaft been perpendicular, and as we had eighty-four 
fathoms water at onc league diftance, we muft proba- 
bly have approached within two or three cables’ length 
of the fhore to be twenty fathoms, and then we fhould 
not have been able to get under way with the fea 
breezes. Flattering myfelf with the hopes of find- 
ing a more commodious fituation, I continued my 
courfe with the fineft weather and the cleareft fky 
we had enjoyed fince our‘departure from Europe. 
We took our bearings on the 12th, 13th, and 14th, 
with equal fuccefs, ranging along the land, at fome- 
thing lefs than three leagues diftance, On the laft 
of thefe days, at fix in the evening, we were envel- 
loped in fog and becalmed. A very light breeze 
from the S. E. juft permitted us to fteer. ‘Till then 
the coaft had run to the N.E. by N. We were 
already in the 44th degree of latitude, the fituation 
allotted by geographers to the pretended ftriit of 
Tefloy ; but we were five degrees to the weftward 
of the longitude affigned to this ftrait, a difference 
which muft be deducted from the continent of Tar- 
tary, and added to the channel which feparates it 
from the iflands lying to the northward of Japan, 

The 15th’and 16th of June were very foggy days, 
We kept within a {mall diftance of the coaft of Tar- . 
tary, and got fight of it at intervals; but the laft of 
thefe days will be diftinguifhed in our journal by the 
moft complete illufion I have witneffed fince I have 
been a feaman, ; 

At four in the afternoon a perfectly clear fky fuc- 
ceeding to the thickeft fog, we defcried the conti- 
nent extending from W. by S. to N. by E. and foon 
after, an extenfive land, in the fouth, running to- 

: wards 


18 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE __ [1787. 
wards Tartary in the weft, where it left an opening 
of lefs than fifteen degrees. We diftinguifhed the 
mountains, hollows, and all the variations of the 
gout but could not imagine how we had entered 
this ftrait, which muft neceflarily be that of Tef- 
foy, of which we had given up the purfuit. In this 
fituation I thought it neceffary to haul the wind, and 
fteer S. S. W.; but thefe hills and hollows foon dif- 
appeared, The moft extraordinary fog-bank I had 
ever beheld had occafioned this deception, and we 
foon witnefled its difperfion. Its forms and its tints 
mounted, and vanifhed in’the atmofphere among the 
clouds ; and enough of day ftill remained fully to de- 
monftrate that land to be unfubftantial and imaginary. 
I ftood on, during the night, over the fpace it had ap- 
peared to occupy, and at day-break no object prefentcd 
itfelf to our view. The horizon was even fufficient- 
ly extenfive to admit of our diftinétly feeing the 
coaît of Tartary, although more than fifteen Icagues 
diftant. I fhaped my courfe towards it, but at eight 
in the morning the fog again furrounded us. For- 
tunately there had been time to take good bearings, 
and recognize the points we had fet on the pre- 
ceding evening. Thus there is no blank on our 
chart of Tartary from our land-fall in 42° as far as 
the ftrait of Segalien. 

The fog was ftill very thick on the 17th, rsth, 
and 19th, but we made no way, and ftood off and 
on, in order again to recognize, at the firft clear in- 
terval, the mountains we had before defcried and laid 
down on our charts. On the 19th, at night, the 
fog difperfed : we were then but three leagues from 
the land, and furveyed an extent of coaft of more 
than twenty leagues, from W. S$. W. to N.N. E. Its 
whole outline. was perfectly diftinct, and the clearch 
atmofphere permitted us to abferve all its tints; but 
in no part did we perceive the appearance of a bay, 
and at the diftance of four leagues from the land 
we 


on 


1787. 
venin 
d the 
f the 
tered 
Tef- 
n this 
and 
n dif- 
I had 
d we 
5 tints 
g the 
o de- 
inary. 
d ap- 
ented 
cient- 
y the 
agues 
eight 
For- 
rings, 
pre- 
1 our 
far a6 


sth, 
uf and 
ir in- 
d laid 
, the 
from 
more 
). Its 
sareft 
, but 
bay, 
land 
we 


1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 29 
we could not firike ground with a line of two hun- 
dred fathoms. The fog foon obliged me to ftand out 
to fea, and we did not again perceive the coaft till 
the next day at noon, We were then very near it, 
and never had an opportunity of taking. better bear- 
ings. We were in 44° 45’ N. lat. and fet a point of 
land bearing N. E. by N. which was at leaft fifteen 
leagues diftant from us. I ordered the Aftrolabe to 
make fail a-head, and look out for anchorage ; and M. 
de Langle hoifted ant his boat, and fent his firft lieu- 
tenant, M. de Monti, to take the foundings of a bay 
we perceived before us, and which feemed to offer us 
fhelter. At two leagues from the land the depth of 
water was one hundred and forty fathoms, and we ~° 
had found two hundred at a diftance of two leagues 
more. The water feemed ‘to fhoal gradually, and it 
was probable that at a quarter of a league from the 
land we fhould find forty or fifty fathoms, which 
though very confiderable, it is extremely common.to 
anchor in fimilar depths. We contmued our courfe 
towards the land, and prefently a thick fog-bank arofe, 
which a light breeze from the north brought over us. 
Before M. de Mouti had reached the bay, he had orders 
to found ; M. de Langle was obliged to make a fignal 
for him to return on board. He rejoined his captain 
at the moment when we were enveloped in the thick- 
eft fog, which obliged us to ftand out to fea, At 
fun-fet we had another clear interval of a few mi- 
nutes. Towards cight o’clock the next morning, 
having advanced but three leagues E. by N. in 
twenty-four hours, we could not fet any other points, 
but thofe already laid down on our chart. We 
perceived the fummit of a mountain precifely in 
the form of a table, to which I gave that name, that 
it might be eafily recognized: by future navigators. 
Since we had ranged along this land: we had not dif- 
covered the leaft trace of its being inhabited ; not 
even a canoc had put off from the coaft: and this 
country, 


30 | LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


country, though covered with the fineft trees, which 
indicated a fertile foil, feemed to be neglected and 
defpifed, both by the Tartars and Japanefe, who 
might have there eftablifhed moft flourifhing colonies. 
The policy, however, of the latter is to prevent alt 
emigration or communication with forcigners, and 
under this defcription they include-the Chinefe as 
well as the Europeans. 

The fog was very thick on the 21ft and 22d, but 
we kept fo clofe in with the coaft, that we perceiv- 
ed it with the leaft clear interval, and had that oppor- 
tunity every day at fun-fet. The cold began to in- , 
creafe as foon as we had got into the forty-fifth de- 
gree of latitude, where the depth of water was fifty- 
feven fathoms, with a muddy bottom, at one league 
from the land. 

On the 23d the wind fettled at N. E. and I deter- 
termined to fiand in for a bay, which I faw to the 
W. N. W. and where it was probable we fhould 
find good anchorage. We dropped anchor there at 
fix in the evening, in twenty-four fathoms water, 
and a fandy bottom, at half a league diftance from 
the fhore. I named it Baie de Ternai, which is 
fituated in 45° 13’ N. lat. and 135° 9’ E. long. 
Although open to the eaft, I have reafon to think 
the wind never blows directly in fhore, but rather 
follows the direction of the land. The bottom is 
fandy, and fhoals gradually, to fix fathoms, at a ca- 
ble’s length from the fhore. The tide rifes five feet, 
and at the full and change of the moon it is high 
water at fifteen minutes paft eight; but its flux and 
reflux do not alter the direction of the current at 
half a Jeague from the fhore; that which we expe- 
rienced at the anchorage never varied but from S. W. 
to S. E. and its greateft drift was one mile an hour. 

It was now feventy-five days fince our departure 
from Manilla, in which time we had ranged along 


the coafts of the iflands of Quelpaert, Corea, and 
, ) Japan 


187.1 ROUND THE WORLD, 31 


Japan ; the barbarity of whofe inhabitants towards 
ftrangers precluded every idea of putting in there. 
On the other had, we knew that the Tartars were 
hofpitable, and our force fufficient to overawe the 
{mall tribes we might meet with near the coaft. We 
burnt with impatience to reconnoitre this country, 
with which our imagination had been filled ever fince 
our departure from France. It was the only part of 
the globe which had efcaped the indefatigable activity 
of Captain Cook, and we were perhaps indebted to the 
melancholy event, which put a period to his life, for 
the advantage of being the firft who landed there. 
We had proof that the Kaftrikum had never failed 
along the coaft of Tartary, and we hoped to find, in 
the courfe of this expedition, new confirmation of 
that fact. 

The geographers who, from the relation of Father 
des Anges, and fome Japanefe maps, had delineated the 
ftrait of Tefloy, and determined the limits of Jeffo, of 
the (Dutch Eaft India) Company’s land, and of that 
of the Staten (or the States of Holland), had fo diftort- 
ed the geography of this part of Afia, that it was necef- 
fary to terminate all former difpntes in this refpeét by 
inconteftible facts*. The latitude of the bay of 
Ternai was then precifely the fame with that of Port 
Aqueis, where the Dutch landed, though, as the 
reader will perceive, they are very different places. 

Five fmall creeks, like the fides of a regular poly- 
gon, form the circumference of this road-ftead. 
They are feparated from each other by hills, clothed 


* Almoft all the geographers who have laid down an iffand to the 
northward of Japan under the name of Jeço, Yeco, or Jeffo, have 
féparated it from Tartary by a ftrait, to which they have given the 
name of Teffoy. This error has been continued, and we {ee in all 
the old maps this imaginary flrait towards the 43d degree of N. 
lat. Its pretended exiftence muft have arifen from the real ttrait, 
which feparates the ifland of Segalien from the continent, and which 
William de Lifle has alfo named the Strait of Tefiy, in a map of 
Afia, dated 1:700.——French Editor. es pews 11 


EN 


32 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


with trees to their fummits. : The lovelieft fpring 
never produced in France fhades of verdüre equally 
various and lively ; and although we had not per- 
ceived, while we failed along the coaft, either a ca- 
coe, or the fmoke of a fingle fire, we could not be- 
lieve a country fo fertile and fo near to China could 
be deftitute of inhabitants, Before our boats land- 
ed, we viewed the coaft with our glaffes; but 
only perceived fome ftags and bears feeding in undif- 
turbed tranquillity along the fhore. This view en- 
ercafed the impatience every one felt to land. Our 
arms were got ready with as much difpatch as: if we 
had to defend ourfelves againft an enemy; and 
while thefe preparations were going on, fome of the 
failors, who weré fifhermen, took twelve or fifteen 
cod with their lines. The inhabitants of large cities 
cannot eafily imagine the fénfations of -feamen 
at the fight of an abundarit ofifhery.. Frefh provi- 
fions are negeflary for all men, and the leaft favory 


‘food is known to be far more falubrious than the beft 


cured falt meat. I gave orders immediately to diftri- 
bute no more falt provifions, but to keep them for lefs 
favourable circumftances.. I had the cafks got ready 
to.be filled with the frefh anddimpid waters rivulets of 
which flowed into every’ creck. I ordered culi- 
nary. plants to be gathered: in the meadows, where 
wéAiound an immenfe quantity of {mall onions, of 
celéry and forrel. The whole toil was carpeted with 
tlie fime plants that grow in our own climate, but 
more vigorous, and of a.finer.verdure. The majari- 
ty were in flower. At every ftep we met with rofes, 
yellow and red lilies, and lilies of the valley, and, 
in general, all the flowers that adorn our meadows. 
The fummits of the mountains were crowned with 
pines, and oaks began to-cloath them from the middle, 


but diminifhed in fize and vigour as they approach: 
the fea. The banks of the rivers and brooks were | 


lined with willows, birch, and maple; and the great 
woods 


feamnen 
provi- 
favory' 
he beft 
) diftri- 
for lefs 
t ready 
ulets of 
d culi- 
where 
ons, of 
ed with 
e, but 
n jori- 
rofes, 
y, and, 
adows. 
d with 
iddle, 


proach: 


s were 


e great ; 


woods 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD, 33 > 


woods fkirted with apple-trees. and medlars in bloom, 
with clumps of nut-trees, whofe fruit was beginni 

to fet. Our furprize encreafed, when we reflected 
that the vaft empire of China is furcharged with an 
excefs of population, infomuch that the laws do not 
even punifh parents who are barbarous enough to 
drown or deftroy their children ; that this nation, 
whofe polity is fo highly extolled, dare not pafs 
the great wall to procure fubfiftence from a land 
whofe vegetation requires rather. to be reftrained 
than. accelerated. e found indeed at every ftep 
the traces of man marked. by deftruétion; trees 
cut with fharp infiruments, the ravages of fire: in 
many various fpots, and fhelter confiruéted for hun- 
ters at the corner of the woods. We found alfo fome 


~ fmall bafkets, formed of the bark ‘of birch, fewed 


with thread, exactly fimilar to thofe of the Canadian 
Indians, and fome fnow fhoes. Every thing led us 
to conclude that fome of the Tartars came down to | 
the coaft in the hunting and fifhing feafon; that at 
prefent they were collected in villages along ‘the 


courfe of the rivers, and that the great body of the : 


nation lived up the country, on a foil more adapted 
to the multiplication of their immenfe herds. 

Three boats from our two fhips brought a number - 
of officers and paffengers afhore in Bear Creek, at © “ 
half paft fix o’clock. By feven they had repeatedly 
fired at feveral wild beafts, who inftantly took re- 
fuge in the woods. . Three young fawns were the 
only victims of their inexperience, the noify joy of 
our company on landing would otherwife have in- 
duced them to retire to the inacceffible woods, near 
which they fed. Thefe meadows, fo delightful ‘to 
the eyc, were fcarcely paffable. Buried in thick 
grafs, three or four feet high, we could fcarcely ‘di- 
rect our fteps. We were alfo in fear of ferpents, of 
which we had found a great number on the banks of 
the rivulets, though we had no experience of the 

Vou. If, D nature 


84 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE f1787. 
nature of their venom. This land then was to us a 
magnificent folitude. The fands of the beach were 
alone peflable, for in every other part we could 
not make the fmalleft progrefs without the moft 
incredible fatigue. A pañlior for hunting, however; 
induced M. de Langle to overcome thefe difficul- 
ties, together with: feveral other officers and natu- 
ralifts, but without fuccels; and we thought we 
fhould not be able to accomplith any thing except by 
‘extreme patience, and pofting ourfelves in ambuth 
in perfe¢t filence, on the track of the bears or ftags, 

‘marked by their footfteps. This plan was fixed for 
the-next day, yet it was difficult to be executed ; 
and men do not: go a voyage of 10,000 leagues, 
“merely to facrifice themfelves in hunting for prey in 
‘the middle of a marfh, covered with mutkitos. We 

. however made the attempt on the 25th at night, 
after having pañled the day in fruitlefs excurfions. 
At nine o'clock every one had taken his poft ; and at 
ten, by which time the bears ought to have come 
out, we all agreed that fifhing was a more advan- 
tageous and fuitable purfuit than hunting: in fact, 
it. proved far more fuccefsful. Each of the five 
creeks that form the circumference of the bay of 
Tetnai, offered a convenient fituation for hauling 
the feine, and received a rivalet near which we made 
eur kitchen. Thus the fith were no fooner out of 
the water than we were ready to cook them. We 
eaught. cod, harp-fifh, trout, falmon, herrings and 
plaice. Our crews had plenty at every meal, and we, 
deemed this fifh, and the herbs with which we fea- 
foned them, during a ftay of three days, a prefervative 
againft the fcurvy, of which none of the crew had 
till then the leaft. fymptom, notwithftanding the 
damp and cold occafioned by the almoft uninter- 
rupted fogs. To thefe we had oppofed chafing difhes 
placed under the hammocks, when the weather did 
not admit of bringing them up. © | 

It 


1787. 
o us a 
h were 

could 
> moît 
)JwWevers 
ificul- 
| natu- 


fervative. 
rew had 
img the 
uninter- 
g difhes 
ather did 


It 


1787.] ROUND FAB WORLD. 35 


It was after one of thefe fifhing parties that we 

» difcovered à Tartar tomb by the fide of a brook, 
near a ruined houfe, and almoft buried in the grafs. 
Our curiofity led us to.apen it, and we found two 

. bodies placed fide by fide. Their heads were co- 
vered with a taffeta cap, and their bodies wrapped in 
a bear’s fkin, with a girdle of the fame, to which 
were fufpended fome {mall pieces of Chinefe money, 
and various trinkets of copper.. Blue beads of glafs 
were fpread about. in. every part, and we found ten 
or twelve filver bracelets, as we fuppofed, weigh- 
ing a quarter of an ounce each (which we aft. rwards 
found to be ear-rings), an iron hatchet, a knife of 
the fame metal, a wooden fpoon, a comb, and a little 
bag of blue nankeen filled with rice. Nothing was 
yet in a ftate of decompofition, and we could not ima- 
gine this monument more than twelve months old: 
Its workmanfhip appeared inferior to that of the tombs 


_ in Frenchman's Bay. It confifted of a {mall enclofure: 
| formed of pieces of trees, clothed with the bark of 


birch. Between thefe a {pace was left for the bo- 
dies. We reftored every thing to its place with the 
moft fcrupulous minutenefs, except taking away a very 
fmall portion of the various articles contained in the 
tomb, in order to eftablifh our difcoveries. We had 
no room to doubt that the hunters of Tartary fre-. 
quently landed in this bay. A canoe, left near the 
tomb, informed us that they came by fea, doubtlefs 
from the mouth: of fome river we had not yet per- 
ceived. 54 3 

. The Chinefe coins, the blue nankeen, the taffeta, 
and the caps, prove that the inhabitants have a re- 
gular commerce with the Chinefe, and are probably - 
fubjeéts of that empire. : 

The rice in the little blue. nankeen bag marks @ 

Chinefe cuftom, founded on an opinion, that our 
wants continue in another life. Lafily, the hatchet, 


the knife, the bear-fkin “slosk, and the comb, have the. 


ftrongeft © 


36 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE f1787. 


ftrongeft refemblance to thofe ufed by the American | 
Indians.. But as thefe nations never had any com- : 


munications, may we not juftly conclude, from thefe 
points of fimilarity, that men in the fame degree of 
civilization and equal latitude, adopt nearly the fame 
éuftoms ; and that, were they placed in-circumftances 
éxactly fimilar, they would not differ from each other 
more than the wolves of Canada from thofe of Eu- 
rope. ? ss 

i Notwithftanding the beautiful appearance this part 


of eaftern Tartarÿ prefented, yet it offered no inte- . 


refting objects to our botanifts and mineralogifts. 
Its plants, and the fubftances which compofe the foil, 
are precifely the fame as thofe of Europe. The 
fchifts, quartzes, jafper, violet porphyry, fmall cryftals, 
and amygdaloids, form the fpecimens from the beds of 
rivers, but we did not perceive the lcaft traces of any 
of the metals. Iron ore, fo general over the whole fur- 
face of the globe, only appeared decompofed in a ftate 
of oxyd, or as the colouring matter of different ftones.. 


* Sea and land birds were alfo very rare. We faw. 


however, feveral ravens, turtle doves, quails, wagtails, 
fwallows, fly-catchers, albatroffes gulls, puffers, bit. 
terns, and wild ducks. But nature was not here diver- 
fified with the innumerable fpecies of birds found in 
other uninhabited countries. At the bay of Ternai 


they appeared but as folitary individuals, and the pro-- 


foundeft filence reigned within the woods. Shells 
were equally fcarce ; we only found on the fand the. 
fpoils of mufcles, lepas, periwinkles, and purple-fith. 
* At length, on the: morning of the 27th, having left 


on fhore various medals, and a bottle with an infcrip- : 


tion, containing the date: of our arrival; and the 
wind having changed to the fouthward, E fet fail, 
and ranged along the’ coaft at the diftance of 


two miles from the fhore, the depth ‘of water be- 


ing always forty fathoms over a bottom of fand and 
mud, and clofe enough in fhore ‘to diftinguifh the 
34 | mouth 


NE 
RS Se oe Oe 


(1787. 


om thefe 
legree of 
the fame 
mftances 
ach other 
> of Eu- 


this part 


ralogifts. 
the foil, 
x. The 
leryftals, 
Le beds of 
es of any 
rhole fur- 
in a ftate 
nt ftones.. 
We faw. 
wagtails. 
ffers, bit- 
ere diver- 
found in 
of Ternai 


| the pro-- 


3... Shells 
fand the. 

rple-fifh. 

aving left 


nänfcrip- : 


and the 
E fet fail, 
fiance of 


vater be- 


fand and 
guifh the 
mouth 


Imérican 
com- : 


no inte- . 


1787:] + OUND THE WORLD. © 37 

‘mouth of the fmalieft rivulet. We made 50 leagues 
in this'manner, in the -fineft weather feamen could 
defire; On'the 29th, the wind changing to the north- 
ward at eleven o'clock at night, I was obliged: to tack . 
to the eaftward, and thus to.gain the o ng... Our - 
latitude was then 46°, 50’ N. and we again ftood in 
for the land the next day. Although the weather was | 


very foggy, yet the horizon extending three leagues 


from us, we furveyed the fame coaft:we:had perceived 
the evening before in the north, and which now, bore 

weft from us. It was lower and more divided by fmall 

hills, and the depth of water, at two leagues from 

the (hore, was only 30.fathoms over a bottom of rock. 
We remained in a dead calm. on this {pecies of bank, 


_and took more thdn 80 cod. A light breeze from.the 


‘fouth enabled us to haul off from it during the night, 
and at day-light we again faw the Jand four leagues 
diftant.; It feemed,only to extend to the N.N..W., 


‘but the fog concealed its. more northerly points. 


We continued ranging along very near the. .coaft, 
whofe direction was N, by, E. On the 1ft of July, 
a thick fog having enveloped: us when fo near the 
land, as to hear the furf breaking on the fhore, I 
made the fignal to.anchor, the depth of water being 30 


fathoms over a bottom of mud and broken fhells. 


The weather was fo foggy till the 4th, that it was 


mpoffible for us to take any bearings, or to fend a 


boat on fhore, but we caught abové 800 cod. I order- 
ed the excefs of our confumption to be falted and 
put in barrels. Our dredge alfo brought up a great 


quantity of oyfters,-of which the fhells were fo 
fine, that it feemed highly probable they might con- 


tain pearls, although we had only found two half form- 
ed. This circumftance adds probability to the relations 
of the Jefuits, who inform us, there is a pearl fifhery 


‘atthe mouth of feveral rivers of eaftern Tartary : but 


we mutt fuppofe this fifhery to be in.the neighbour- 
hood of Corea; for, farther north, the country is too 
| +04 thinly 


88 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787. 
thinly inhabited for that mode of employment; fince, 
in running down two hundred leagues of this coat, 
“often within gun-fhot, and always at a {mall diftance 
from the land, we neither perceived canoes nor houfes ; 
and we only faw, when on fhore, the traces of a few 
hanters, who do not appear to have any dwelling in 
the places we vifited. 
“On the 4th, at three in the morning, we had a fine 
“$nterval of clearweather, when we took the bearings 
“of the land as far as N. E. by N., and had abreaft of 
“us, bearing W. N. W., diftant two miles, an exteñ- 
‘five bay, into which a river 15 or 20 toifes wide 
diftharged itfelf, A boat was fent off from each 
frigate; nnder the commiand of Meflis. Vaujuas and 
“Darbaud, to reconnoitre it: Meéfirs. de Monneron, 
‘Ja Martinière, Rollin, Bernizet, Collignon, the abbé 
‘Mongès, ‘end’ Father Receveur, were on board. 
They eafily effected a tanding, and found the water 
gradually fhoaling towards the fhore.. The face of 
the country is nearly fimilar te~that of the bay of 
Térnai; and, though three degreës: more to the 
“northward, its productions, and the fübftances that 
compofe its foil, are almoft the fame. : 
_ The traces of inhabitants were here much more 
recent. We faw branches of trees.cut with à fharp 
imftrument, on which the leaves ftill continued green. 
Two elk-fkins extended with great {kill on fmall pieces. 
of wood, had been left by the fide of a {mall fut, not 
large enough to lodge a family, but fufficient to afford 
fhelter for two or three hunters. Perhaps it even 
‘then contained a few of thofe who had fled, through 
fear, to the woods. M. de Vaujuas was of opinion 
that he ought to take one of thefe fkins ; but left in 
exchange hatchets, and iathet inftruments of iron, of 
an hundred times the value ‘of the fkin, which he fent 
tome. The report of this officer, and that of- the 
naturalifis, excited no defire to praleng my ftay in 
this bay, which I named the bay of Suffren, regi 


‘11767. 

ts; fince, 

his co 

1 diflance 

Dr houfes ; 
‘of a few 
elling in 


had a fine 
> bearings 
abreaft of 
an exteti- 
ifes wide 
rom each 
ujuas and 
fonneron, 
the abbé 
m board. 
the water 
he face of 
he bay of 
re to the 
nces that 


uch more 
th a‘fharp 
red green. 
nall pieces 
Il frat, not 
t to afford 
ps it even 
|, through 
of opinion 
but left in 
of iron, of 
ch he fent 
hat of. the 
ny flay in 


CHAP. 


' ROUND, THE WORLD. 


“era. xviIL. 


WE CONTINUE OUR COURSE #0 THE NOW Ant) 
WE DESCRY A PEAK TO THÉ EASTWARD—WE PER< 
| CÉIVE THAT WE ARE SAILING: IN À CHANNEL 
‘WE SHAPE OUR COURSE TOWARDS THE ISLAND oF 
SEGALIEN+—WE PUT INTO LANGLE BAY-—MANNERS 
“AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS—THEIR IN2 
FORMATION DETERMINES US TO CONTINUE OUR 
ROUTE TO THE NORTHWARD—-WE RANGE ALONG 
THE COAST OF THE isLAND—Ww PUY INTO 
D'ESTAING. BAY+-WR DEPART FROM THENCE—Wer 
FIND THAT THE CHANNEL BETWEEN THE ISLAND 
AND THE CONTINENT OF TARTARY 19 OBSTRUCTED 
BY SAND-BANKS—WE ARRIVE IN THE BAY OF CAS- 
TRIES ON THE COAST OF: ‘TARTARY. ' 


GOT under way from the bay of Suffren, with a 
light breeze at N. E., which I hoped would enable 
me to gain a ‘diftance from, the coaft. This bay‘is | 
fituated, according to our obfervations, in 479,51‘ N, 
lat. and 1379. 25° E. long. . During our departure we 
ufed the drédge feveral times, and took fome oyfters, 
to which their poulettes were attached, as welhas fome 
fmall bivalve fhells, (fuch as are often found in pe- 
trificd ftate in Europe, and to which, nothing ana: 
logous has been feen, except of late, years on. the 
coaft of Provence), fome large whelks, many fea 
hedge-hogs of the common fort, a great quantity of 
fiar-fifh and holothurice, with fome very fmall Pieces 
of a beautiful coral. 

The fog and, the ~ealm obliged us to. anchor a 
leapre farther from the: fhore, in 44 fathoms water, 
ever a bottom of fand and: waud; where, though wa 
continued to catch cod, this was but a poor compenfa- 
tion for the lofs of time, during which the feafon was 

/ D 4 | advancing 


40 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE (1787. 
advancing too rapidly,confidering our defire of entirc- 
ly exploring this fca At length on the 5th, notwith- 


 ftanding the fog, the breeze. having frefhened from 


the S. W., I got uader fail, While at anchor, we 
had, during a. clear interval. of about..ten minutes, 
taken bearings of eight. or ten leagues of coaft to 


the N..E. by N....Thus«we could advance, without, 


inconvenience, : feven or eight leagues to the N. E. 
by E., and I fhaped my courfe to that point, founding 
every half hour ; for we could not fee at a diftance of 
two, mufket-fhots, . We failed in this manner, in 50 
athoms water, till dufk.. The wind then changed to 
N..E. blowing very frefh, with a heavy rain.. The 
barometer .fell to 274 inches, and we beat.about with 
contrary winds the whole of the day, on the 6th of 
July, when our latitude, by obfervation, was 48° N., 
and our longitude 138° 20° E. 

At noon we had a clear interval, when we took 
the bearings of fome fummits of mountains which 
extended to the northward, but a fog: concealed’ the 
lower part of the coaft; and we perceived no point 
of land, although we were but three leagues off. 
The night was extremely fine, and we ran parallel 
with the coaft by moon-light. Its direétion was at 


firft N. E., and afterwards N. N. E. ‘We. ranged 


along it at day-break, and hoped to arrive before 
night in the latitude of 50° N., the limit I had fixed 
for quitting the coaft of Tartary, and returning to- 
wards Jeflo and Oku-Jeffo ; being very certain, that 
if thefe ‘had no real exiftence, we fhould at leaft fall in 
with the Kuriles as we advanced to the eaftward, But 
at eight. in. the morning we. got fight of an‘ ifland 


which appeared very extenfive, and formed with Tar- 


tary an opening of 30 degrees. : We did not diftin- 
guifh any point of land, and could only take the 
bearings of fome fummits of mountains,’ which ex- 
tending‘as far as the fouth-eaft, indicated that we 
were already confiderably advanced in the channel 
“sh BME which 


OO tn ee AM © nn ss . 


Ch me 


(1787. 
f entirc- 
otwith- 
ed from 
hor, we 
ninutes, 
coaft to 
without, 
e N. E. 
ounding 
tance of 
Tr, in 50 
anged. to 
n. The 
out with 
e 6th of 
489 N., 


we took 
ns which 
aled the 
no point 
D oe oe 
\ parallel 
om was at 
> ranged 
e before 
ad fixed 
ning to- 
ain, that 
aft fall in 
ard. But 
an ifland 
ith Tar- 
ot diftin- 
take the 
hich ex- 


that we 


channel 
. which 


1787.] : ROUND THE WORLD. _Al 
which feparated it from the continent. Our latitude 
was, at that time, 48° 35’ N.; and that of the Aftro- 
labe, who had advanced: two leagues a-head, 48° 
Ao’. Tat firft believed this land’ to be. the ifland of 
Segalien, of which the fouthernmoft part had been 
placed by geographers two degrees too’ much to the 
northward; and I judged that if I fteered my courfe . 
up the channel, I fhould'be forced to purfüe it till it 
opened into the fea of Okhotfk, on account of the 
obftinacy of the fouth winds, which at this feafon in- 
ceffantly prevail in'thefe feas. This fituation would 
have been an infupcrable obftacle ‘to: my defire of 
fully explorins ‘his fea, and after having drawn a moft 
exact chart of the coaft of Tartary, it only remained,: 
in order to effect this plan, to range along the weft- 
ern fide of the firft ifland I fhould meet with, as far. 
as the 44th degree.’ I therefore’ fleered: my courfe 
to the S. E. lat "Ve 
. The appearance of this land was very different 
from that of Tartary. We only perceived  barren 
rocks, whofe cavities fill retained the fnow. But we 
were at too great a diftance to difcover the low: 
lands, -which, like thofe: of the continent, might be 
covered with trees and with verdure. The moft ele- 
vated of thefe mountains, whofe fummit terminates. 
like the chimney of a furnace, I named Pic Lamanon, 
on account of its volcanic form, and becaufe the na- 
turalift of that name has particularly directed his at- 
tention to the various volcanic productions, KA 
The fouth winds. obliged me to ply to windward 


‘with all fails fet, in order to double the fouthern ex- 


tremities of this new land, of which we had not yet 
perceived the limits. We had only found an opportu- 
nity, during afew minutes, to take the bearings of 
the fummits of fome mountains, a thick fog hav- 
ing enveloped us. But we got foundings three or 
four leagues from the coaft- of Tartary to the weft- 
ward; and in running to the eaftward, I tacked as 
foon 


Aa LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE l1787: 


foon.as we found forty-eight fathoms water. J was 
ignorant how fat difiant thefe foundings placed us 
from the new difcovéred ifland : but in the midft of 
this obfcurity, and with an horizon of lefs thar half a 
Jeagte; we took'an-obfervätion of the latitude on the 
oth of July, which was 48° 15’... The obflinacy of 
the foutherly winds did not ceafe during the gth'and 
10th, when they were accompanied with ‘a fog fo 
thick, that we could fcarcely fee a mufket-fhot from 
the fhip. We in a manner felt our way in this chan- 
él, being certain that we had land from S. S. E. 
round by E. and N.toS. W. The new reflections 
to which this land bearing S. S. E. gave birth, al- 
moft induced me to believe, we were not in the 
channel of the ifland of Sagalien, to which no gea- 
grapher has affigned fo foutherly a fituation, but ra- 
ther.to the weftwatd of Jeffo, of which the Dutch 
had, in all probability, run down the eaftern part; and. 
that, as we had failed very near the coaft of Tartary, 
we: had, without perceiving it, entered. the gulph 
which Jeflo forms perhaps with this part of Afia. It 
only remained for-us to difcover whether Jeffo is an 
ifland or a peninfula, forming with Chinefe Tartary 
the fame figure as Kamtfchatka with Ruffian Tartary. 
} waited ‘with the greateft impatience for a clear in- 
terval, in order to purfue the courfe that muft decide 
this queflion ; and. it took: place in the afternoon of 
the 11th. It is only in thefe foggy feas that very 
cxtenfive horizons- prefent themfelves, though very 
rarely, as if Nature were dcfirous, in a manner, to 
compenfate by moments of the greateft clearnefs the 
profound. and almoft eternal obfcurity which: fpreads 
over all thefe feas. The curtain rofe at two jn the after - 
noon, and we took bearings of the land from N, by E,° 
to N. by W. The opening was but an angle of 22° 
and a half, and feveral of our company declared they 
faw fummits, of mountains’ which entirely \clofed it., 
This unce: tainty. of gpinion rendered me M Me 
Er cide 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 43 
cided what plan to adopt. It would have bcenexe . 
tremely inconvenicnt to bear away 20 or 30 leagues 
to the northwärd, if we were really within fight of the 
top of the gulph, becaufe the feafon. was advancing, 
and we could not expect to beat up thefe 20 leagues , 
againft the fouth wind in lefs than eight or ten days, 
fince we hagkadvanced but 12 leagues in thécourfe of 
the five dae we had been plying to windward in this 
channel. On the other hand, the objeét of our-voy- . * 
age was not accomplithed, if we miffed the ftrait 
that divides Jeffo from Tartary. I therefore thought 
it better to put in, and endeavour to procure intor- 
mation from the natives, On the 11thand 12th the 
weather was clear, in confequence: of, a:yerÿ ftrong 
breeze, and we were obliged to reef our fails. We 
approached within a league of the ifland, whofe coaft 
yan due north and fouth. I was defirous of finding 
a bight, where our, veflels might be fheltered, but 
the coaft did not offer the fmalleft inlet, and the fea 
was as high half a. league. off the fhore as in the of- 
fing, Thus although we had a fandy bottom, which 
was {o level as only to vary from 18 to 30 fathoms in * 
the fpace of fix leagues, I was abliged to continue to 
beat up againft the fouth wind with all fails fet. 

The diftance from whence I had firft defcried this 
coaft Igd me into an error, but when I approached 
nearer, I found it as well wooded as that of Tartary. 
At length, in the evening of the 12th July, the breeze 
from the fouthward having confiderably abated, I 
neared the land, and dropped anchor in 14 fathoms 
water in a bottom of fand and mud, two miles from a 
fmall creek inte which a river difcharged itfelf. : M, 
de Langle who had anchored an hour before me, came 
immediately on board. He had already hoifted out 
his jolly and long boats, and propofed landing before 
night, to reconnoitre the country, and difcover Whe- 
ther we could derive any information from the inha- 
bitants. ‘We perceived by the aid. of our glafies 

_fome 


_ 44 * LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 

fome hutey end. two:of the inhabitants who feenied t 
. Eaccepted the ‘ot 
niteeatieted. him to, tak: 

« the abbé Mongès, and when, we h 

«.-chored and furled our md mae our boats hoi P 
I manned the pr | ng it under.the a | 
‘mand of M, Clonard, le 14 
Prevoft and Coli ere Pe 
py de ine who rd 


wasia. ttn of poppi whofe eyes were not yet open: 
ed, while the mo er, who was: heard barking in the. 
‘wood, indicated that the, P rietors of thefe dwell 
ings were not: far diftant. ..M.'de Langle left fome’ 
Sai ra og Pr of. on fome: Beads, and 2 
heral; Whatever he:thoughtmof ufeful and agree- 

e to thefe, Mlanders, in the perfuafion,.that as Toca 
as'he had re-embarked the inhabitants would return; 
‘and thatour: en agora, convince them, we were 

* notenemies.: He.alfo-had the feine hauled, and took : 
at si more falhon: than would ferve the crews ie * i | 
week. ‘'Atthé moment when he was. going to re co 
ona Re ‘faa ‘canoe-with feven men come, afhore, : # 
who did ‘not a pour ths cat sar eae at our frumbers, 
They ran their Littl the fand, and 
fat upon matte inthe middle of pia Hors, with an air 
of confidence which prejudiced: ‘them much in their 
fayour.. -Among the number were two old men with 
long white beards, :clothed with a :ftuff: made of the 
bark of trees, fimilar’ to the cottons for negroes in 
Madagafcar : two. of thefe Iflanders had. habits of 
quilted nankeen; and the form of thcir drefs differed. 
but little from that of the Chinefe. . Others had only 
ajong: robe entirely « clofed by ‘means of a girdle, and 
fone fmall buttons which rendered ‘drawers unnecefs 
té on — were uncovered, and two or sk 

0 


# 


di) 


il a 


Ss 
SS 


Pe 
12 
Æ 
LA 
L F4 
Z 
| 


LE \ 
ZB 
LA 
À 4 


ESS 


NS K 
x 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 45 
of them wore asfillet of bear-fkin, They had the 
crown of the head and. faces fhaved, but behind, all 
the hair remained to the length of eight or ten.inches, 
though in a different manner from that of: the Chi- 
nefé, who only have a round tuft of hair which th 
call pentfec. ‘They had all boots of feal’s-fkin wi 
a foot refembling that of the Chinefe, manufac- 
tured with the greateft art. ‘Their/arms were pikes 
and bows,,and arrows tipt with iron. The oldeft 
of théfe Iflanders to whom the others fhewed the 
a gi regard, had very weak eycs, and wore on his : 
ead a fhade to defend him from the, light of the 
fun. The manners of thefe inhabitants were grave, 
noble, and affeétionate. M. de Larigle prefented 
them the remainder of “he articies h: hod brought 
with him, and gave them to Andirftas:) by gas, that 
the night obliged him to return cn board, but that he 
was very defirous of meeting item again the nékt 
day, in order to bring them new proferits.. They figs 
nified, in reply, that they fhon!d pais the night mn the 
neighbourhood, and would be r'unétual to she ren- 
dezvous. : 

We concluded that thete were proprietors of a tva 
gazine of fifh we had met with, on the bauks othe 
fmall river, and which wets raifes!. upon fakes four 
or five fect above the ground.’ M. de Langle wher. 
he approached it, had the fame refpect for it os for, - 
the deferted cottage. He found there faltaon and 
herrings, dried and fmoked, biadsers filled: wish cit, 
and fkins of falmon, which were as thin 28 pare’mmeni. 
This magazine was too confiderable ir the fublifi- 
ance of a.fingle family, and ke coneluded thet tbefe 
people trafficked in thefe.articles. Our boats did not 
return on board till near cleven at night, and their ‘ 
report excited my moft lively curiofity. I waited 
with impatience the return of day, and was on 
- fhore with. the “vawl and long-boat before fun-rife. 
The iflanders arrived in the creek foon afterwards. 
i They 


D 46 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 
They: éamé from the north, where: we-had judged 
“their village to be fituated, dnd: were ‘foon follow- 
ed by a fecond canve: : Their companies amonnted 
to 21, among! whonr: were thie: proprietors :of the 
huts, whole: confidence the articles ‘left by:.M. de 
 Langle' bad reftored. But: they brought no women, 
-and weshave reafon to think they are ‘extremely jea- 
Jous;of them. : We: heard dogs barking:in the woods, 
‘and thefé animals had probably: remained ‘with:the 
.women.. Our hrnters weré defirous of enteritig the 
foreft: but the:inbabitants urged: us in the moft pref- 
fing manner, not: to approach the {pot from whenc 
we'heard the barking, and as }intended:to make im: 
portant enquiries of them, I was defirous to infpire 
‘ them with confidence, and therefore gave orders not 
to oppofe them in any thing. | 


. M. de Langle with :almoft aft his oitticers arrived 


prefently after us, and ‘before our converfation with 
the inhabitants commenced. It was preceded by 
prefents of various kinds. ‘They feemed, however; 
to put no value on any but thofe which were ufeful. 
Tron and fiuffs prevailed above every thing. They 
knew the metals as well as ourfelves, and: preferred 
filver to copper, copper to iron, &c. They were 
very poor, oy three or four of them had:filver ear- 
rings, adorned with blue beads, exaétly fimilar to 
thofe we had found in the tomb at the bay of Ternai, 
and which I had taken for bracelets. » Their other 
» little ornamerits were copper, like thofe. in the fame 
tomb. Their pipes, and fteels for lighting them, ap- 
peared to be Chinefe, or Japanefe, and the former 
were of tutenag perfectly well executed. ‘They 
gave.us to underftand, by pointing with their hand 
to the weft, that the bluc nankeen with which fome 
- of them were cloathed, their beads,:and their fteels, 


came from the country of the Mantchous, and they. 


pronounced, that name precifely as we do. Obferv- 
ing afterwards, that each of us held a:paper and pencil 
in 


*, 


1787.) ROUND THE-WORLD: | 4 
in his band, to form a vocabulary of their language, 
they mens À gueffed our intention, and ‘antici 
ting our qu ions, prefented the various: objects; 
added the name of the country, and were fufficiently 
complaifant to repeat them four or five times, till we” 
had learnt their pronunciation. ‘The facility with 
which they had gueffed our intention; leads me to 
- conclude, that the art of writing is known to them, 
and one of thefe Iflanders who, as we fhall fee traced 
the outlines of the country, held a pencil in the 
fame manner as the Chinefe. ‘They feemed to have 
a great defire for our ‘hatchets and ftuffs, ‘arid éven: 
ventured to afk for them. But they were equally: 
ferupulous with ourfelves, in not accepting ‘any 
thing but what we gave them. ft'was evident, their 
ideas of theft were in no refpeét different from our 
ewn, and I fhould not have hefitated to have trufted 
them: with guarding our property. Their forupu-, 
loufnefsin this refpeét, extended to the not taking up: 
from the beach any of the falmon we had caught, 
although ‘they laid there by thoufands : ‘for our fuc-' 
m cefs had been equally abundant with that of the pre- 
| ceding evening, and we wereïobliged to prefs them. 
feveral times to take as many as they wifhed. 25 
We at left fucceeded in making them underftand 
| that we wifhed them to deforibe the figure of their 
country, an. that of the Mantchous: One of ‘the: 
| old men then rofe, and traced ‘with the end of* his: 
pike the coaft of Tartary to the weft, running near: 
ly north and fouth. Oppofite to this, in thé fame’ 
direction to the eaftward, he reprefented his own: 
ifland ; and placing his hand upon his breaft, he 
gave us to underftand, this was his own country. 
He had left a ftrait between it and Tartary, and 
turning towards our veffels, which he perceived from 
the fhore, he indicated, by another line, that we 
might pafg that way. To the fouth of this iflend he 
reprefented another, and left a ftrait, fignifying this 
to 


48 * LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE . [1787. 


to.be another courfe for our veflels. : He ‘difcovered 
wonderful: fagacity in guefling our .queftions, but 
was even: exceeded: by another jflander, about:thirty 
years of ‘age, who perceiving that the figures on the 
“fand'were foon effaced, took. one of our pencils and 
perk a and delineated his own ifland, 
which he called: Tchoka, and defignated by a line the 
Little river:on whofe: bank we: ftood; and which he 
placed at two thirds of the Jength of: the ifland from 
north:to fouth.: He afterwards laid down the coun- 
try. of the Mantchous, leaving, like the ‘old man, a 
ftrait at. the: top of the bight; and, to our great 
 furprize, he added the river Segalien, whofe name 
thefe iflanders:pronounced like ourfelves. He placed 


the mouth of this river a little to the fouthward of the 


northernmofc point of his ifland, and marked by fe- 
veral ftrokes, the number of days neceffary for. a ca- 
noe to reach it from the place where we. ftood ;: but 
as their canoes never go above a piftol-fhot from the 
fhore, and follow the windings of the little creeks, we 
Lana gers advance in a ftrait line above nine 
eagues per day; : for as the coaft. admits of landing 
every where, they go afhore to drefs their provifions 
and take their meals, and it is probable they make fre-. 
- quent réfis: We therefore cftimated our diftance from 
the extremity of the ifland at fixty-three leagues at 

» moft:: The fame iflander repeated, what we had been 


alréatly ‘told; that they procured nankeens'and other. 
articlesof commerce by their: communication :with- 


the: banks of the river Segalien, and he denoted by 
fimilar marks, the number of days employed by a 
canoe in afcending this river to the place with which 
they traded. All the other iflanders were prefent at 
this converfation, and fignified by their. geftures their 
approbation of their countryman’s difcou: fe... We 
were now defirous of knowing if this ftrait, was very 
broad, and endeavoured to make him underftand 

our idea. He caught our meaning, and placing his. 
eo : two 


m= cncip 
| bo gain 
-M 


| events 


ae witho 
| d gave 
both Al 
| where 
captai 


| amore | 


and pe 


1787 
two | 
of tv 
unde 
of the 
ing t 
and j 
the f 
Wer 
led hi 
paces 
He fe 
over : 
Wet 


| the ri 


their | 
the fi 


| he ba 
In th 
| and t 


veflels 
were { 


wheth 
which 


We 
countr 
anet wi 


tion, 


VoL. 


ks, we 
re nine 
nding 
vifions 
kefre- 
efrom 
ues at 
d been 


1 other. 
with- 


ed by 
L'by a 
which 
ent at 
bs their 

. We 
AS very 
erftand 


ng his. 


two 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 40 
two hands perpendicular and parallel, at the diftance, 
of two or three inches from each other, gave us to 
underftand, that.he meant thus to defcribe the width 
of the finall river where we got our water. By widen- 
ing them, he fignified the width of the river Segalien, 
and in the fame manner the much greater width. of 
the firait which feparated his country from Tartary. 
We now withed to know its depth of water. We 
led him to the edge of the river, which was but ten 
paces from us, and paunged the end of a pike in. 
He feemed to underftand us, and placed one hand 
over the other, at a diftance of five or fix inches, 


| We thought he meant thus to fignify the depth of 
| the river Segalien. He then extended his arms to 
| their full length, as if to communicate the depth of 


the ftrait. It now remained to afcertain whether 
he had been deferibing abfolute or relative depths, 


In the firft cafe the ftrait was but a fathom deep, 
| and thefe people, who had never approached our 
| veflëls, might fuppofc three or four fect of. water 


were {ufficient for us, fince three or four inches were 


D encugh for their canoes ; but it was impoflible for us 
to gain farther information in this refpect. 


M, de Langle and myfelf thought that, in all : 


events, it was of the greateft importance to difcover 
| whether the ifland we were ranging along was that to 


which geographers have given the name of Segalien, 
without fufpecting. its extent to the fouthward ; and 


| I gave orders to prepare every thing on board for 
| both fhips-failing the next. day, I called the, bay 


where we Jay’ at anchor Baie de Langle, from that 

captain, who difcovered it, and firft landed there. 
Weemployed the reft of the day in exploring the 

country and vifiting its inhabitants. We had not 


| anet with any, fince our departure from France, who 
|inore firongly excited our curiofity and admira- 


tion. We knew that the moft numerous nations, 


and perhaps thofe moft anciently civilized, inhabit 


Vou. II. E the 


50 | LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787 
the neighbouring countries; but it does not appear 
they ever conquered thefe iflands, for there’ was: 
nothing to tempt their cupidity, and it was totally 
contrary to our ideas to find among a people of 
hunters and fifhermen, who do not cultivate a fin- 
gle produétion of the earth, and who are deftitute 
of flocks, manners generally more gentle, more fe- 
rious, and perhaps a more comprehenfive intellect, 
than in any nation of Europe. Affuredly the know- 
ledge of the informed claffes of Europeans much 
exceeds that of the twenty-one iflanders with whom 
we communicated in Langle Bay; but among the 
inhabitants of thefe iflands their knowledge is more 
generally diffeminated than among the lower clafles 
of European nations. Here every one feemed to 
have received the fame education. We no longer 
obferved the ftupid ftare of the Indians of Port des 
Frangais, though our arts and manufactures at- 
tracted the attention’ of the inhabitants of Langle 
Bay, who turned and examined thefe manufactures 
every way, converfed of them among themfelves, and 
endeavoured to difcover by what means they-had 
been fabricated. The ufe of the fhuttle is known to 
them. [I brought away a machine with which they 
make cloth entirely fimilar to ours ; but the thread is 
made of the bark of willow, which is very common 
in this ifland, and feemed to differ, very little from 
that of France. Although they do not cultivate the 
earth, they profit by its ffontaneous productions 
with the moft active intelligence.. We found in 
their huts many roots of a fpecies of lilly, which our 
botanifts recognized to be the yellow lilly, or fa- 


ranna of Kamtfchatka, which they dry, for their | 


food in winter. They had alfo great quantities of 
garlic and angelica, which are found on the fkirts 
of their woods. Our fhort ftay did not permit us 
to inveftigate whether they have a form of govern- 
ment, nor can we hazard a conjecture on that fub- 
ject, 


[1787 
ot appear 
vere | was’ 
s totally 
eople of 
ate a fin- 
deftitute 
‘more fe- 
intellect, 
he know- 
ns much 
ith whom 
mong the 
e is more 
ver claffes 
eemed to 
no longer 
f Port des 
Gtures at- 
of Langle 
nufactures 
felves, and 
| they-had 
; known to 
which they 
e thread is 
common 
little from . 
altivate the 
roductions 
found in 
which our 
illy, or fa- 
| for their 
iantities of 
the fkirts 
| permit us 
of govern- 

that fub- 

ject, 


ih 


CMY 


2 
\ 


NN 


ANSEL eee an 
SAN 
\ 


Wy 
SN 


ees CINE. F5 Av. 
LA Me 
ee S 


1787.). ROUND THE WORLD. — 51 


ject, though we cannot doubt but they have great 
refpect and confideration for theit old men, and that 
their manners’ are -yery-igenties».Were they fhep- 
herds, and had:th fear flock ay Ee fhould form 
no other idea ‘of: the manr . nd: 

triarchs. » ous à 


ably hairy.' ‘ 
one ‘who : 
were tots ae five ‘feet. re Tey be itted our 
Mer À to draw them," but ftedfaftly refifted the:defire 
of M. Rollin, our furgeon, ‘who. wifhed to take 
the dimenfions of their ‘bodies. “They thought it 
perhaps fome magical op i for. we know front 


travellers that. this: idea of magic: is ‘extremely ge- 
neral in | China: and: Tartayy’ cand: that; they: | 


due ve in baptizing ine. 
‘cir perfifting in ‘con: 

oving’ them to a'difà’ 

es: we have: to: make 


ds À i où a dy Fab eating he 
ats of: ‘éxportation:  We:onl traded: He. taie 


js 
tens"tkins: We faw bears” iki s; and-thofe of ' feale; - 


cut in pieces for articles af idrefé ; but: thefe: were 

‘from numerous. ‘The fürs. of thefe iflands: would 
be!but very trifling objects of commerce. We found 
fome round pieces of coal ilying:'6n the fhore, but 
not @ firigle ftone ‘that contained: either | gold i iron; 
or copper.'} Tam very much'inelined to think they 


“have nominés in their ‘mountains. : “AN the filver 


trinkets ofithefe twenty-one iflanders did not amount 
to two oufites;. and a medal with a filver chain which 
BA *x .- I put 


52 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787. 


I put round the neck of an old man, appeared to 
them of ineftimable value. Each of the inhabitants 
wore on his thumb a large thick ring of ivory, horn, 
or lead.. They let their nails grow like the Chinefe, 
and ufe the fame falutation, throwing themfelves on 
their knees, and then proftrating themfelves on the 
earth, Like them they fit on mats, and eat with 
little flicks, But ifthey have a common origin with 
the Chinefe and the Tartars, their feparation from 
them is very ancient, for they have no refemblance 
to thofe nations in their perfon, and very little in 
their manners, ; 

. The Chinefe we had on board, did not underftand 
a fingle word of the language of thefe iflanders, 
though they were perfectly acquainted with that of 
two Mantchou Tartars who had come from the:con- 
tinent a fortnight or three weeks before, perhaps in 
order to make fome purchafe of fifh. 

We did not meet with them til} the afternoon. 
They converfed, by word of mouth, with one of our 
Chinefe, who well underftood the Tartar tongue, 
They related the fame particulars of the geography 
of the country, orly changing the names, becaufe in 
all probability each language has itsown. The drefs 
of thefe Tartars was grey nankeen, like thofe of the 
coulis or porters at Macao. Their hat was pointed, 
and made of bark, they had the tuft of hair or. pent/ec 
of the Chinefe, but their countenance and manners 
were much lefs agreeable than thofe of the inhabitants 
of the ifland. They faid they lived at a diftance 
of eight days journey, on the upper part of the river 
Segalien. All thefe circumftances, added to. what 
we had feen on the coaft of :Tartary, very near to 
which we had failed, led us'to think the fhotes of 
this part of Afia were almoft deftitute df inhabitants, 
from the 42d degree, or the confines of Corea, to the 
river Segalien ; that mountains, perhaps inaceeffible, 
feparate this maritime country from the refi af 
gris À a | Fartary, 


33.0 


os à © 


(1787. 
ared to 
abitants 
r, horn, 
hinefe, 
lves on 
on the 
pat with 
vin with 
on from 
blance 
little in 


derftand 
flanders, 
h that of 
the con- 
haps in 


ternoon. 
1e of our 
tongue, 
cography 
ecaufe in 
Che drefs 
fe of the 
pointed, 
or. pentfec 
manners 
habitants 
- diftance 
the river 
to what 
near to 
fhotes of 
habitants, 


ea, to the 


wccefhble, 


e reft of 


Fartary, 


1787.4 ROUND THE WORLD. 58 


Tartary, and that they could only arrive there b 

fea, and by thence afcending fome rivers; althoug 

we had not perceived one ftream of any magnitude.* 
The huts of thefe iflanders are built with fkill, and 
every precaution is taken againft cold. They are of 
wood, covered with the bark of birch, and have a 
roof of wood, thatched with dried ftraw, arranged’ 
like the cottages of our peafants. The door is very 
low, and placed in the gable end, the fire in the 
middle, under an opening ir the roof for the fmoke. 
Little benches or planks, eight or ten inches high, 
run round them, and the infide is lined with mats. 
The hut here defcribed, was fituated in the middle 


‘of a wood of rofes, 100 paces from the fea. Thefe 


fhrubs were in flower, and. exhaled a delicious fra- 
grance, but could not compenfate the fmell of the 
fifth and oil, which would have overpowered all the 
perfumes of Arabia. We were defirous to know 
whether the olfactory fenfations, like thofe of the 
palate, depend on habit, I therefore gave one of the 
old men a flafk of the fwceteft fcented water. When 
putting it to his nofe, he fhewed the fame repug- 
nance to it as we had felt for his oil. He had his 
pipe conftantly in his mouth, and his tobacco was of 
a very good quality and in large leaves. If I 
rightly underftoed them, they procured it from 
Tartary, but they clearly explained that their pipes 
came from the ifland to the fouthward, by which, 
doubtlefs, they meant Japan. Our example could 
not induce them to take fnuff; and it would have 
been rendering them a differvice to have taught 
them a new want. I was aftonifhed to hear among 
the words of their language, of which I have inferted 


* Thefe Iflanders never gave us to underftand they carried 
on any trade with the coaft of Tartary, which, however, they were 
acquainted with, fince they delineated it, but only with a people 
who dwell at a diftance of eight days journey on the upper part of . 
the Segalien, . ; 


E 3 ‘a voca- 


54 LA, PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787, 


a vocabulary at the end of Chap. XXI. the word 
Ship for a veffel, and too, tree, for the numbers two 
and three. Do not thefe Englifh expreffions demon- 
ftrate that a few fimilar words are not fufficient ta 
prove a common origin ?* 

On the 14th of July, at day break, I made the 
fignal for getting under way, with a foutherly wind 
and hazy weather, which foon changed in a very 
thick fog. Till the 19th there was not the fmalleft 
alteration. I fhaped my courfe N. W. towards 
the coaft of Tartary, and when, according to our 
reckoning, we were on the fpot from whence we 
had difcovered Lamanon Peak, we hauled our wind, 
and plied to windward, under eafy fail, in the chan- 
nel, waiting till the obfcurity cleared up, which I 
do not think can be equalled by that of any other 
fea. At length it cleared up for a moment, and in 
the morning of the tyth, we faw the land of the 
ifland, extending from N. E. by N. to E. S. E. but 
it was fill fo covered with vapours, that it was im- 
poffible for us. to recognize any of the points which 
we had fet by the compafs the precedings days. ] 
ftood on to approach it, but we foon loft fight of it. 
Guided, however, by our foundings, we continued to 
range along it till two o’clock in the afternoon, when 
we anchored two miles from the fhore, to the wefi- 
ward of a very good .bay, in twenty fathoms .water, 
over a bottom of fmall gravel. “At four’ the fog dif- 

* On the contrary, thefe words would give the Kin ‘of Great 
Britain a title to the fovereignty of thefe iflands and feas, at leaft, 
equally authentic with that under which fome princes have claimed 
a right to territories many thoufand miles from their lawful domi- 
nions. To be ferious, however, thefe words ‘may furnifh matter 
ra 7 for the geographer, the politician; and the philo. 
AA PEN to remark, that the French writer has fpelt them 
fo as to produce thefe Englifh founds in a French mouth: thus, 
chip, tol, iri. Perhaps the natives pronounced the #b in three as 


we do. Buta French ear is as little adapted to feize, as their other 
organs are to pronounce, the found.—TZran/lator’s note. 


perfed 


ed Del fes M oe ae bein ee ee ee | ein et ee oe ee ee ee ee pb im = 2 = 


(1787, 
e word 
ers two 
demon- 
cient ta 


ade. the 
ly wind 

a ver 
fmalleft 
towards 
to our 
ence we 
ir. wind, 
1e chan- 
which. I 
y other 
, and in 
1 of the 
E. but 
was im- 
ts which 
days. | 
ht of it. 
inued to 
n, when 
he weft- 
is water, 
fog dif- 
of Great 
as, at leaft, 
ve claimed 
wful domi- 
ifh matter 
the philo. 


fpelt them 
uth: thus, 
in three as 
their other 


perfed 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 55 


rfed, and we took the bearings of the land afiern of 
us N. to the E. by E. I gave to this bay, the beft in 
which we had anchored fince our departure from Ma- 
nilla, the name of Baie dEflaing. Its latitude is 
48° 59’ north, its longitude 140° 32/ caft. Our 
boats landed there at four in the afternoon, near ten 
or twelve huts, placed without order, at a confider- 
able difiance from each other, and about one hun- 
dred paces from the fea. They were rather more con- 
fiderable than thofe I have defcribed, and built with 
the fame materials, but were divided into two apart- 
ments ; the fartheft containing all their little houfe- 
hold furniture, the fire-place, and the bench that runs 
around, while that next the door was entirely empty, 


and feemed appropriated to receiving vifits: firan- 


gers apparently not being admitted into the prcfence 


_of the women. . Some of our officers, however, 


met two of them, who had concealed themfelves ia 
the grafs. When our boats landed in the creek 
the women were terrified, and fcreamed, as if in 
fear of being devoured, although under the pro- 
tection of an iflander, who was conducting them 
homewards, and endeavoured to quiet the‘r alarm. 
M. Blondela had time to take a drawing of them, 
and was particularly happy in reprefenting their 
countenance, which is rather extraordinary but plea- 
fing. Their eyes are finall, their lips thick, and the 
upper part painted or tattooed with blue, for it was 
not poffible to afcertain which was the fact. Their 
legs werg naked, but a long linen night- gown cover- 
ed them ; and as they were bathed in the dew of the 
grafs, this night gown clung to their bodies, and per- 
mitted the painter to defcribe their exact thape, which, 
however, was inelegant. Their hair was. of its full 
Yength, and the top of their head was not fhaved like 
that of the men. | 
. M. de Langle, who firft landed, found the Iflanders 
ou tage E 4 collected 


56 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE (1797. 


collected round four canoes laden with fmoked fith ; 
they were helping to launch them into the water, and 
he learned that the 24 men who formed the crews were 
Mantchous, and that they had come from the banks 
of the Segalien to buy fith. He held a long con- 
vérfation with them by means of our Chinefe, to 
whom they gave the beft reception. They faid, like 
our firft geographical inftruétors of Langle Bay, that 
the land we were ranging along was an ifland, and gave 
it the fame name, adding, that we were five days of 
their navigation from its extremity; but that, with a 
fair wind, we might make this run in two, and fleep 
each night on fhore. Thus every thing we had there 
learned was confirmed in this bay, though exprefled 
with lefs intelligence by the Chinefe, who ferved as 
our interpreters. M. de Langle alfo obferved, in a 
corner of the ifland, a kind of circus formed with 15 
or 20 ftakes, each of them adorned with the head of 
a bear; the bones of thofe animals lying difperfed in: 
the vicinity. As the inhabitants have no fire arms, but 
engage the bears front to front, and their arrows can 
only wound: this circus: feemed deftined to come 
meinorate their exploits, and the 20 heads of bears 
it exhibited, to denote the victories they had gained 
ten years fince, if we might judge by the flate of de- 
‘compofition of the majority of them. ‘The produc- 
tions and component fubftances of the foil are exact- 
ly fimilar to thofe of Langle Bay. Salmon was very 
common there, and every hut had its magazine. We 
difcovered that thefe people confume the head, the 
tail, and the back-bone, and cure and fmoke the 
two flanks for fale to the Mantchous, referving for 
themfelves nothing but the flavour, which infeéts 
their houfes, their furniture, their clothes, and even 
the grafs that furrounds their villages. Our boats 
~ at length put off at eight o’clock in the evening, after 
we had loaded the Tartars and Iflanders with pre- 
: fents. 


[1787. 
4 fifh ; 
er, and 
Ws were 
e banks 
ng con- 
nefe, to 
id, like 
ay, that 
nd gave 


days of 


, with a 
nd fleep 
id there 
xprefied 
erved as 
ed, in a 
with 15 
head of 
erfed in: 
‘ms, but 
“ows Can 


of bears 
| gained 
e of de- 
produc- 
e exact- 
was very 
ne. We 
ead, the 
1oke the 
‘ving for 
h infects 
ind even 
ur boats 
ng, after 
ith pre- 
fents. 


to come 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 57 


fents. They returned on board at three quarters 
patt eight, and I gave orders to prepare for failing 
the next day. ‘ 

The 2oth was a very fine day, and, we made the 
beft obfervations, both of latitude and of diftances be- 
tween the fun and moon, by which we corrcéted our 
reckoning for the laft fix days, fince our departure 
from Langle Bay, fituated in 47° 49/ N. lat. and 140° 
29’ E. long., which laft differs but three minutes 
from that of d’Eftaing Bay. The direction of the 
weftern coaft of this ifland from 47° 39, where we: 
had feen Langle Bay to 52°, being due north and 
fouth, we ranged along it at fomething lefs than a 
league diftance; and at feven in the evening, a thick 
fog having furrounded us, we anchored in 37 fa- 
thoms water over a bottom of mud and fmall pebbles. 
The coaft was much fteeper and more mountainous 
than on the fouth fide. But we perceived neither 
fire nor habitation ; and, as night approached, we did: 
not fend a boat a-fhore. However we took cight or 
ten cod for the firft time fince we had quitted the 
coaft of ‘Tartary, from whence we concluded, we 
were near that continent, of which we had loft fight 
from the 49th degree of latitude. : 

Being obliged to follow one of thefe coafts, I pre- 


ferred that of the ifland, in order not to mifsthe ftrait, 


if there exifted one to the eaftward. This required 
minute attention on account of the fogs, which 
only afforded us very {hort intervals of clear wea- 
her, Thus I kept the land clofe aboard, never 
being farther than two leagues diftance, between: 
Langle Bay and the extremity of the channel. My 
conjectures on the vicinity of the coaft of Tartary 


- were fo well founded, that as foon as our view be- 


came a little more extenfive, we had a perfect view: 
of it. The channel became narrower in 50°, and was 
there only 12 or 13 leagues wide. 

On the 22d, at night, I anchored a leagué from the 
land, 


| 
' 
HB 
iw 
| i 
(à | 
| | 
ih 

ni 
ait 
he 

4 


58 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


land, in 37 fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. 
We had a-breaft of us a little river, and, three leagues 
to the northward, a very remarkable peak, whofe bafe 
is at the water’s edge, and its fummit, from what- 
ever fide it is viewed, preferves the moft regular 
form. It is covered with trees and verdure to its top. 
I gave it'the name of Pic la Martinière, becaufe it 
offered a fine field for the botanical refearches to 

which that gentleman has devoted himfelf.. ; 
Not having perceived any habitations, during the 
time we ranged along the coaft of the ifland, from 
d'Eftaing Bay, I was defirous of clearing up my 
doubts on this fubject. I therefore manned four 
boats belonging to both fhips, under the command. 
of M. de Clonard, fecond captain, and ordered him 
to reconnoitre the creek, into which a little river, of 
which we perceived the channel, difcharged itfelf. 
He returned at eight in the evening, and, to my great 
furprize, had all his boats full of falmon, although 
the crews had neither lines nor nets. This officer in- 
formed me he had landed at the mouth of a rivulet 
not more than 24 feet wide, and a foot deep, which 
he found fo full of falmon, that its bottom was entirely 
covered with-them, and our failors had killed 1200 
in an hour with their fticks. On fhore he had only 
found two or three deferted fheltering places, which 
he fuppofed to have been ereéted by fome Mantchou 
Tartars, who probably had come from the continent, 
according to their cuftom, to trade with the fouthern- 
moft part of the ifland: Vegetation was ftill more 
vigorous here than in the bays where we had landed. 
The trees were of a large fize, and celery and water- 
crefles grew on the banks of the river. ‘This was 
the firft time we had met with the latter fince our 
departure from Manilla. They might alfo have ga- 
thered enough of juniper-berries to have filled feveral 
facks, but we gave the preference to herbs and &th. 
Our botanifts made an ample collection of rare plants, 
sin and 


‘ 


[1787. 


ottom- 


>agues — 


fe bafe 
what- 
egular 
ts top. 
aufe it 
hes to 


ng the 
|, from 
up my 
d four 
nmand. 
od him 
iver, of 
‘itfelf. 
y great 
though 
cer in- 
rivulet 
which 
ntirely 
d 1200 
nd only 
| which 
ntchou 
itinent, 
thern- 
| more 
landed. 
water- 
his was 
ce our 
ve ga- 
feveral 
d. Sth. 

olants, 
and 


1787] - ROUND THE WORLD. . 59 
and our mineralogifts collected many cryftals of fpar, 
and other curious. fiones. But they neither found 
marcafites nor pyrites: nothing, in fhort, that indi- 
cated any metallic mine. Firs and willows were 
much more numerous than oak, maple, birch, or 
medlars; and had other travellers landed a month 
later, they would have found a plentiful crop of goofe- 
berries, ftrawberries, and rafpberries, for they were 
already in flower. 
While the crews of our boats were on fhore col- 
leCting this abundant harveft, we were employed in 
catching cod, and a few hours furnifhed us with frefh 
rovifions for a week. I gave this river the name of 
Ruiffeau de Saumon, or Salmon River; and got under 
way at day-break. We continued ranging clofe along 
this ifland, which feemed to have no end to the north- 
ward, although every point that ftretched out a little 
to fea flattered me with that hope. On the 23d, we 
obferved in 50° 54’ N. lat., and our longitude had 
fcarcely varied from Langle Bay. In this latitude we 
took the bearings of a very good bay, the o:::y one we 
had feen in running along this ifland, that offcred a fe- 
cure fhelter againft the winds from the channel. A 
few habitations appeared difperfed upon the fhore near 
a ravine, which indicated the bed of a river a little 
more confiderable than thofe we had yet feen. I did 
not think proper more particularly to reconnoitre this 


‘bay, which Inamed Baie de la Jonquière. However I 


fiood acrofs it, and:a league from the fhore the depth 
of water was 35 fathoms over a muddy bottom ; but 
I was fo prefled fur time, and the clear weather we 
then enjoyed fo rare and fo precious to us, that I 
thought it my duty to employ it in advancing to the 
northward. Since we had got into the latitude of 
50° N., I had entirely recurred to my former opinion, 
and could no longer doubt that the ifland we were 
ranging along from 47°, and which, according to the 
information of its inhabitants, mufi extend much far- 
| : | ther 


— eg ES 


marne ae 


pret mme gr rome ep tm 
© = = 


60 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE. [1787. 
ther to the fouthward, was the ifland of Segalien, 
whofe northernmoft point has been determined by the 
Rouffians in 54°, and which forms one of the longeft 
iflanids in the world, in a direction from north to 
fouth. Thus the pretended ftrait of Tefloy could only 


be that which feparates the iflandof Segalienfrom Tar- 


tary nearly in 52°. I was too far advanced not to be 
defirous to reconnoitre the flrait, and’ to know whe- 


‘ther it was navigable. I began, however, to fear it was 


not, becaufe we fhoaled our water very fuddenly as 
we advanced to the northward, and the land of Sega- 
lien was little more than an aflémblage of fwampy 
downs, almoît level with the water, and refembling 
fand-banks. 

' In the evening ofthe 23d, I anchored three leagues 
from the land, in 24 fathoms water, over a muddy 
bottom. I had found the fame foundings two 
leagucs farther to the eaftward, and at one league from 
the fhore, and from fun fet to the moment when we 
anchored, I had made two leagues to the weftward, 
exactly at right angles with the direction of the coaft, 
in order to difcover whether the depth increafed in 
proportion as we departed from Segalien ; but it was 
conitantly the fame, and I began to fufpect that the 
declivity was from north to fouth, in the direction of 
the channel, nearly in the manner of a river, whofe 
depth diminithes towards it fource. 

On the 24th at day break we got under fail, fhap- 
ing our courfe to the N. W. We fhoaled our wa- 
ter to eighteen fathoms in three hours. I then gave 
orders to fteer to weft, and we carried with us pre- 
cifely the fame depth of water. I croffed the chan- 
nel twice eaft and weft in order to fatisfy myfelf whe- 
ther there was any fpace of deeper water, and thus 
to find the pañlage if there was one. This was the 
only reafonable plan in our prefent circumftances, for 
the water fhoaled fo rapidly when our courfe was to the 
northward, that for every league in this direction the 
bottem 


1787. 
alien, 
vy the 
mgeft 
rth to 
d on! 

n Taie 
to be 
 whe- 
it was 
nly as 
Sega- 
ampy 


bling 


agues 
nuddy 
s two 
e from 
cn we 
tward, 
coaft, 
fed in 
it was 
at the 
ion of 
whofe 


| fhap- 
hr wa- 
à gave 
Is pre- 
chan- 
| whe- 
à thus 
as the 
es, for 
sto the 
on the 
ottcm 


1787.) | ROUND THE WORLD. 61 


bottom rofe three fathoms. - Thus fuppofing a gra- 
dual decreafe of depth, we were but fix leagues 
from the top of the gulph, and yet we did not 
perceive any current. ‘This ftagnation of the water 
feemed to prove there was no channel, and was the 
certain caufe of fo equal a declivity. We anchored 
in the evening of the 26th, on the coaft of Tartary, 
and the next day at noon, the fog having difperfed, 
I ran tothe N. N. E., towards the middle of the chan- 
nel, in order completely to eftablifh this point of ge- 
ography, which had coft us fo much labour and fa- 
tigue. In this manner we failed, with a perfeét view 
of both coafts ; the depth, as I had expected, diminifh- 
ed three fathoms every league, and after having ad- 
vanced four leagues, we anchored in nine fathoms 
over a fandy bottom. The wind had fettled to the 
fouthward fo confiantly, that for near a month 
they had not varied 20 degrees, and we expofed our- 
felves, by thus running before the wind towards the 
top of the gulph, to be embayed, and confequent- 
ly to be obliged to wait the return of the monfoons 
to get out. But this was not the greateft inconveni« 
ence we apprehended, The danger of driving from 
our anchors with a fea as high as we ever witnefied on 
a European coaft when there is no fhelter, was of 
much greater importance. Thefe foutherly winds; 
whofe fource is in the feas of China, pafs without 
interruption to the top of the gulph of Segalien. 
They there violently agitate the fea, and blow more 
ftedtaftly than the trade winds between the tropics. 
We were now fo far advanced that we were defi- 
rous of exploring the extremity of this channel ; but 
unfortunately the weather had become extremely un- 
certain, and the agitation of the fea continually in- 
creafed. However we hoifted out our boats to found 
around us. M. Boutin had orders to go towards 
the S. E., and M, de Vaujuas towards the north, 
with an exprefs injunction not to expofe themfelyes to 

the 


62 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE f1787. 
the danger of not returning on board. Thefe orders 


could only be confided to officers of the greateft pru< 


dence, becaufe the fea growing heavier, and the wind 
increafing, might oblige us to get under way for the 
fecurity of our fhips. I therefore gave orders to thefe 
officers not to rifk, on any account whatever, the fafe- 
ty of our fhips by waiting for them, nor their own, 
fhould circumftances unavoidably compel us to get 
under fail. Che's 

My orders were executed with the greateft punc- 
tuality. M. Boutin prefently returned, and M. Vau- 
juas made a league to the northward, where he found 
the.depth of water fix fathoms, and advanced to the 
utmoft diftance which the ftate of the fea and the 
weather. permitted him to found*. He left us at 
fevca, and did not return till midnight. The fea be- 
ing then very high, and remembering the misfortune 
we had experienced in Port des Frangais, I began to 
feel the greateft uneafinefs. But his return feemed 


. to compenfate the very bad fituation of our vefels, 


and at break of day we were obliged to get under 
fail. ‘The fsa was fo heavy that we were four hours 
in weighing our anchor: the meffenger and a pur- 
chafe fnapped, the capftan was broken, and by this 
event three men were badly wounded. We were then 
obliged to carry as much fail as the mafts could bear, 
though it blew very ftrong. Fortunately fome flight 
variation from $. to S. S. W. and S.S. E. favoured 
us, and we made five leagues in 24 hours. 

On the 28th at night, the fog being difperfed, we 
found ourfelves on the coaft of Tartary, at the open- 


* It is extremely probable that the {traits of Segalien has been 
formerly navigable for fhips, but every thing induces me to think 


- thatit will foon be dry, and that ifland become a peninfula. This 


change will take place either from the immenfe accumulation pro- 
duced by the river Segalien, which through a courfe of 500 leagues 
receives other confiderable rivers, or by the fituation of its mouth 
almoft at the narroweft point of a long channel: a fituation ex- 
tremely favourable to the forming of land.—French Editor. 

ing 


D D 3 DC EG ES SE M cme 
EEE fae eas, png cf ee TE Fr re 5 


ETS SE CE TRE TT, SR 


1787. 


orders 


it pru< 


> wind 
or the 
) thefe 
e fafe- 
Own, 
to get 


punc- 
. Vau- 
found 
to the 
id the 
us at 
fea be- 
ortune 
pan to 
eemed 
reMels, 
under 
hours 
a pur- 
ry this 
e then 
| bear, 
flight 


roured 


d, we 
open- 


as been 
o think 

This 
on pro- 
leagues 
; mouth 
tion ex- 


ing 


_1787.] ROUND THE WORLD.  :. 63 


ing of a bay which appeared to be very deep, and 
offered a fate and commodious anchorage. We were 
then entirely deftitute of wood, :and had very little 
water: I therefore determined to put in, and made 
a fignal to the Aftrolabe to go:a-head and found, 
We anchored. at the northernmoft point of this bay, 
at five in the evening, in eleven fathoms water, over a 
muddy bottom. M. de Langle, having immediately 
hoifted out his boat, founded this road-ftead himfelf, 
and informed me that it offered the beft poffible thel- 
ter behind four iflands, which defend it from the 
fea breezes. He had landed at a Tartar village, where 
he had met with a very good reception ; and had dif- 
covered a watering place, where the moft limpid ftream 
might fall into our boats; and thefe iflands, from 
which the good anchoring place could not be farther 
than three cables’ length, were covered with wood. 
In confequence of M, de Langle’s report, I gave or- 
ders to prepare for going to the'top of the bay at 
day-break, and we anchored there at eight in the 
morning, in fix fathoms water, over a muddy bot- 
tom. I named this bay, Baie de Caftries. 


a 


64 LA.PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


CHAP. XIX. 


WE PUT INTO THE BAY OF CASTRIES—DESCRIPTION 
OF THAT BAY AND OF A TARTAR VILLAGE=-MANr 
NERS AND CUSTOMS. OF THE INHABITANTS--THEIR 
RESPECT FOR TOMBS, AND FOR PROPERTY 
OUR PERFECT CONFIDENCE IN THEIR PROBITY—= 
THEIR PARENTAL AFFECTION TO THEIR CHILDREN 
—THEIR STRICT UNION AMONG THEMSELVEs—* 
FOUR FOREIGN CANOES SEEN IN THIS BAY——GEO- 
GRAPHICAL INFORMATION OBTAINED FROM THEIR 
CREWS—PRODUCTIONS OF THE BAY OF CASTRIES 
—1T8 QUADRUPEDS, BIRDS, FOSSILS AND PLANTS, 


HE impoffibility we difcovercd of failing out to 

A the north of the ifland of Segalien, opened to 
us a new order of events, and it was now very 
doubtful whether we could this year arrive at Kamt- 
fchatka. 

The Bay of Caftries, where we had juft anchored, 
is fituated at the top of a gulph about 200 leagues 
diftant from the Strait of Sangaar, which was the 
only paffage by which we could be certain of quit- 
‘ting the fea of. Japan. The foutherly winds were 
more fteady, more conftant, and more obftinate than 
in the feas of China, from whence they proceeded, 
becaufe, being confined between two lands, their 
greateft variation could not exceed two points to the 
eaftward or wefiward. When we had a breeze at 
all frefh, the fea rofe to an alarming height, very 
dangerous to our mafts; and our fhips were not fuf- 
ficiently good failers to afford a hope of gaining 200 
leagues to windward before the end of the Summer, 
in fo narrow a channel, » here the almoft continual 
fogs rendered plying to windward extremely diffi- 
cult; yet the only alternative that remained was to 
attempt 


wood 


178 
atte! 
foon 
not | 
I the 
our 3 
as pc 
fore | 
days. 
long: 
Lang 
to ft 
boat 
jolly- 
Belle, 
had c 
yawls 
in fifl 
abou: 


Lang 


‘ration 


lifts, 
and, 
tentio 
tain 

were 
rifton 
ments 
fhips, 


loire. 


obfer 
the q 
activi 
cal al 
for th 
a MOI 

Vo 


1787.] . ROUND THE WORLD. 65 


attempt it, unlefs we waited for the northern mon- 
foon, which might be retarded till November. I did 
not beftow a moment’s confideration on the latter plan. 
I thought, on the contrary, that we ought to redouble 
our activity, by endeavouring to fupply as fpeedily 
as poflible our want of wood and water, and J there- 
fore announced that we fhould not ftay above five 
days. As foon as we were moored, the boats and 
long-boats, of hoth fhips were appointed by M. de 
Langle and myfelf to feparate duties, which were 
to fuffer no change during our, ftay. The long- 
boat got in our water, the barge our wood, and the 
jolly-boats were appropriated to Meffis. Blondela 
Bellegarde, Mouton, Bernizet, and Prevoft junior, who 
had orders to draw the plan of this bay.. Our fmall 
yawls, which drew but little water, were employed 
in fifhing for falmon, in a fmall river where they 
abounded ; .and, laftly, our Bifcay yawls ferved M. de 
Langle and myfelf to fuperintend our different ope- 


‘rations, and to convey us, together with: the natura.. 


lifts, to the Tartar village, to the different iflands, 
and, in general, to every object which. required at- 
tention, ‘The firft and moft important was to afcer- 
tain the rate of our time-kcepers; and our fails 
were fcarcely furled, when Meffis. Dagelet, Lau- 
rifion, and Darbaud, :had already fet up their inftru- : 
ments in an.ifland at a very fmall diftanee from our 
fhips, to which I gave the name of {fe de l'Obferva- 
loire. It was allo to furnifh our carpenters with 


wood, of which we were entirely deftitute, - A gra- 


duated rad was fixed inthe water, at the foot of the 
obfervatory, to. determine the rife of the tide, and 
the quadrant and pendulum. were arranged with an 
activity: worthy of a better fuccefs, . Aftronomi- 
cal obfervations, were purfued without. interruptien, 
for the fhort time I-had annovaced did not admit. of 
a moment’s repofe.. The morning and the afternoon 

Vox, Il. ASE, were 


66 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


were émployed on equal altitudes of the fun, and the 
night in taking the altitude of the ftars. 

The comparifon of the rate of our time-keepers had 
already commenced, and No. 19 gave us but little un- 
eafinefs, becaufe its refults, compared with thofe of 
our lunar obfervations, had always been the fame, or, 
at leaft, did not exceed the errors to which thofe in- 
ftruments are always liable. Not fo No. 18, which 
was on board the Aftrolabe. It had varied in an ir- 
régular manner, and M. de Langle, as well as M. 
Laurifton, knew not what daily rate to affign it. The 
aukwardnefs of a carpenter now deftroyed al our 
hopes. He felled a tree near the aftronomical tent, 
which broke the glafs of the quadrant, deranged the 
pendulum of comparifon,.and almoft annihilated the 
labours of the two preceding days. Their refult 
fixed the latitude of our anchoring place, in 51° 
20’ North, and its longitude 139° 41’ Eaft, ac- 
cording to No. 19, allowing for its daily lofs of 12 
feconds, as it had been eftablifhed at Cavita. It 
was calculated to be high water at the full and 
change of the moon at 10 o’clock, its greateft rife 
five feet eight inches: and the drift of the current, 
lefs than half a mile. Our aftronomers, limited by 
this event to mere obfervations of curiofity, accom- 
panied us on the two laft days in our various excur- 
fions. The bay of Caftries alone, of all thofe we vi- 
fited on the coaft of Fartary, deferves that name. It 
affords a fecure ‘afylum againft bad weather, and it 
would even be poftible to winter there. The bottom is 
muddy, and fhoals gradually from 12 fathoms to five 
in approaching the fhore, from which’ the breakers 
extend to three cables’ length, fo that it is very diffi- 
cult. to land, even in a boat, when the tide is low. 
Befides this, they have to contend with fea-weeds 
re | which there are but two.or three feet of wa- 
ter, arid which oppofe an invincible refiftance to the 


excrtions of the boats crews. No fea is more fertile in 
different 


[1787. 
, and the 


epers had 
little un- 
h thofe of 
: fame, or, 
thofe in- 
18, which 
lin an ir- 
ell as M. 
mit. The 
sd all our 
vical tent, 
ranged the 
ilated the 
reir refult 
e, in 51° 
Eaft, sc- 
lofs of 12 
Javita. It 
e full and 
reateft rife 
ie current, 
limited by 
y, accom- 
ous excur- 
hofe we vi- 
name. It 
her, and it 
é bottom is 
oms to five 
© breakers” 
very diffi- 
ide is low. 
_fea-weeds 
cet of wa- 
née to the 
re fertile in 
different 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD," 67 
different fpecies of fuci *, and the vegetation of our 
fineft meadows does not exhibit a more beautiful vel. ; 
slier verdure. A very great bight on 
fends the Tartar village, and which we fuppofed, 
1. Satan Se rep to receive our fhips, becaufe it wag 


hen we anchored at the. top of the bay, 
few hours afterwards a field of. marine 
diyaft quantities of falmon from a rivulet 
iRerged itfelf es thefe weeds, lea 
Wace, and we took above 2000 in a day, 
meuitents, whofe moft abundant and moft 
Beeitence'thefe fifh fupply, beheld our fuc- 
fut uneafinefs, becaufe, no doubt they were 
Meier. quantity was inexhauftible. We 
their village the day after our arrival 
M. de Langle had preceded us, and his 
feus afriendly reception. | 
ible to find in any part of the world a 
yorthier people. ‘Their chief;or oldeft 
er with forne of his neighbours, came 
thefhore. He faluted us by proftrating 
round after the manner of the Chinefe, 
onducted us to his hut, where we found 
aughters-in-law, and his grand-children. 
tan mat to be fpread, on which he in- 
and a fmall grain with which we were 
‘was prepared for us over the fire in a 
-fome falmon. This grain is their. 
food. They informed us that it came 
Wy of the Mantchous ;: a name they 
toa people who dwell feveri oreight 
mithem, up the river Segalien, and 
@irect communication with the.Chinefe, 
led us by figns; that they were of the na- 
Orotchys; and fhewing us four ftrange 
e plants are exactly the fame as thofe which are 
for packing cafes of oil or liqueur, called goémon- 


F2 | canoes 


LT. 
eo NA Vy € 
Ÿ.Y qv x 
\ RP A 
Ai 
% 
Z eo 
O ,: 
So ral - 4b 
pagal FT 
=i == Sl = 8 = 
SE 
OS = 
J > Se EN A5 
LAS N G Ka À A 
AY S Re bs 


\F 
| Gr Of 
. Fs 


| i 
à, 
il | | sd 
: il 
i 
FES th 
ii 
i 
4 | 
: 
| 
a i 
b ae 


| 


ii cl 


hem; and. never found our-confi- 


Cy: 


Opinio the: did. not even faipeñt- there. cxifled 
ach : sim a theft, |. 
ch: hut wa ifaeounded by, a. place for drying 
hich were expofed, on poles to the beat of 
i, after having been {moked two or three. da 
he fire in the middle. of their houfes, . The 
16h. who were employed in this operation, are 


arry them into the ¢ mé airs where they ane 
rires of wood, : 


nd fifh-gies, and: we faw them with a ifeufitg 
y devour the raw -fnont, gills, and fmall bones, 
pinetimes the whole fin of the falmon, which 
off with great addrefs. They fucked in 
ag e of thefe parts as we would fwallow an 
eater number of fifh were brought 
‘ate, except when the fifhery had been 
ay it, on which.occafions we obferved the 
with the fame avidity feek out the whole fith, 
devoured in Jin equally difgufting manner the 
aginous parts; which in, their eyes appeared 
othe mof delicious as - dt was in this bay of Caf- 
jiries that we learnt the. ons of the thick ring of, lead 

or bone, which thefe 5 

vear.on their thumb. They ufe it to cut againft, 
pping the falmon with. a fharp knife, which each 
i — at his waift. 


i this fta 


‘tothe north, and wMich appeared un- 
ble during the winter. But on, the oppofite 

© gulp on a more elevated fpot open to 
by ‘and near à a was SRG village con- 
a. fifling 


ted from this bay with an 


‘hei Ai tt ftood.on a neck of low and marfhy _ 


be gs fll of ns oa 
neral, all the articles that we 


ful, as foon as the fmoke: has penetrated them, - 


peoples well as thofe of Sega- in 


ROUND THE WORLD. -71 
ts of lilly pre which the 
| ts of he, woods, and dry 


ss de ne nt dose AN dar. 1 4 
ye concluded, from, the, number of tombs 
or we found them on all the iflands, and on al 
their creeks) thas Fostosre genes ES Rene had rayaged 
_thefe countries, and. greatly reduced” the number of 
. inhabitants; but I am inclined to believe, that the 
different families were difperfed in the neighbouring 
bays in the fithery and, curing of falmon, and that 
they reaflemble in the winter, when they bring in 
their provifion of fith for their fubfiftence, till the 
return of the fun. Itis in fact a mere probable con- 
jeCure, that the religious veneration of thefe people 
for the tombs of their anceftors, has preferved and re- 
paired them, and retarded perhaps for ages,, the un- 
- avoidable and filent decay of time. Though I per- 
_ eeived no external difference between the inhabitants; : 
. it was not fo with the dead, whofe afhes repofe in more 
"or leis magnificence according to their wealth. Itis . 
probable, that the labours of a long life are fcarcely~ 
_fufficient to defray the expence of thefe maufolea, 
which have at moft a relative magnificence, and of 
which we fhould form a very erroneous idea, if we 
compared them to the monuments of civilized nations. | 
: The poorer fort are expofed on a bier, placed on a ftage 
fupported by fakes four feet high. All have their 
bows, their arrows, their nets, and fome pieces of 


… cloth round their tombs, and it is probable, -hat to 


rob them would be deemed a facrilege, 


.. Thefe people, like the inhabitants of Segalien,* 
* The ifland of Segalien is among thofe whofe name has been 
moft varied by geographers. We find it in ancient maps defignated 
* under the following names : Sahalien, Ula-hata, Black River, Sag- 
halien, Anga-hata, Amur, Amour, &c.— French Editor. 
To thefe we may add the Sagaleen in the chart of Cook’s Voy- 
ages. The true appellation feems to be fixed by the obfervation of. 
La Péroufe, who mentions that the natives pronounced the name 
of their country exactly as the French pronounce Ségalien. 
er Tranjflator’s Note. 
Fa. fcem 


72 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
feem to acknowledge boit 


4 


dé #0 chief dnd to fubmit to no go- 
vémment. :Æ tte 


| of their tn anners, and 
their refpegh iam. th dient anar- 


— 
— 
ee 
es 
— 

— 


feed to obferve 
g bent a baw and 
_ fhot 


MON 
WENO 


| NW 
MT 
ATEN AE 


t a baw and 
~ fhot 


1787.) ROUND THF WORLD. ' 73 


fhot an arrow with confiderable exaétnefs, and havin 
beat a dog, threw himfelf on his mother's breatt, and 
took the placc of a child of 5 or 6 months old, who 
had fallen afleep on her knee. , 

The fex appcars here to enjoy great confideration ; 
they never concluded any bargain with us without 
the content of their wives, The filver car-rings and 
copper jewels which adorned their drefs, are entirely 
referved for women and little girls. 'The men and 
little boys are dreffed in jackets of nankeen, dogs- 
fkin or fith-fkin in the forth of carters’ frocks. If 
thefe extend below the knee they wear no drawers ; 
otherwife they have fuch as are ufed by the Chincfe, 
and which extend to the calf of their leg. They have 
all boots of feal-fkin, which they referve for winter, 
and they wear at all times, and at all ages, even at the 
breaft, a leather girdle, to which are fufpended a knife 
and fheath, a flint-fteel, a little bag for tobacco, and 


- a pipe. . 
Fe drefs of the women is fomewhat different. 
_ They are covered with a large nankeen gown, or one 
“Of falmon fkin, which they have the art cf tanning 
and rendéring extremely flexible. This drefs extends 
to their ancle, and it is fometimes adorned with a 
fringe of fmall copper ornaments, which make a noife 
like little ‘bells: The falmon, whofe fkin ferves for 
their drefs, are not thofe caught in fammer, but fuch 
as weigh 30 or 40 pound. Thofe we caught in the 
month of July, weighed only 3 or 4 ; but their num- 
bers and the delicacy of their tafte compenfated forthis 
difadvantage. We were all of opinion we had never 
tafted better. We cannot defcribe their religion, not 
having perceived either temple or priefts, only per- 
haps fome idols of rough {culpture, fufpended from 
‘the roof of their cottages. Theft figures reprefented 
children, or arms, hands, and legs, refembling the vota 
: of many of our country chapels. It is poffible thefe 
images, which we may have erroneoufly taken for 
‘ idols, 


74 LA: PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787. 
idols, may only ferve as memorials of fome child de- 
voured by the ‘bears, or fome hunter whom, thefe 
animals may havé wounded. It is not, however, 
probable; that a people fo feebly conftituted, fhould 
be free from fuperftition.. In fact, we fometimes fuf- 
pected they took us for magicians ; for they anfwered 
our different queftions with a complaifance, accom- 
panied with evident marks of uneafinefs, and when 
we traced characters on paper, they appeared to.con- 
fider the motion of the hand that wrote as magic 
figns, refufing to anfwer our enquiries, becaufe as 
they gave us to underftand they confidered it an evil. 
It was with the'greateft difficulty and patience. that 
M. Lavaux, furgeon-major of the Aftrol:be, could 
form the vocabularies of the Orothys and the Bitchys. 
Our prefents were not able to overcome their preju- 
dice in this refpect, and they even received thefe ‘ 
with repugnance, and often refufed them with ob- 
ftinacy.. I once thought I difcovered that they ex- 
pected more delicacy in our manner of offering them. 
To difcover whether my fufpicion was founded, I fat 
down in one of their habitations drew two children 
of three or four years old. towards. me, and having 
beftowed on them fome flight carefles, gave them a 
piece of rofe-coloured nankeen, which I had brought 
in my pocket. I obferved the eyes of the whole fa- 
mily exprefs the livelicft fatisfaction, though I am 
certain they would have refufed the prefent, had I 
offered it directly to them. The, hufband quitted 
the houfe and foon returned with his fineft dog, 
which he requefted me to accept. I refufed it, en- 
deavouring to make him underftand that it would 
be more ufeful to him than to me. But he perfifted, 
and finding that he did not fucceed, he called the 
two children who had received the nankeën, and 
laying their little hands on the back of the dog, gave 
me to underfiand I muft not refufe them. So deli- 
cate a «finement of manners can only exift in a 

: people 


(+787. 


m,,thefe 
owever, 
, fhould 
imes fuf- 
anfwered 

accom- 
nd when 
d to.con- 
as ‘magic 
ecaufe as 
tan evil. 
ence.. that 
e, could 
> Bitchys. 
ir preju- 
ved thefe 


they ex- 


ing them. 
Children 
id having 
ye them a 
1 brought 
whole fa- 
igh I am 
it, had I 
d quitted 
neit dog, 
ed it, a 
it would 
perfified, 
alled the 
een, and 
dog, gave 
So deli- 
xift in a 


hild de- . 


people’ 


~ 


a nt 


il | 

LUTTE | 

A 

| | | 

WHT | 

Il | 
| 


1) 


‘ 


i | " ; | 


CANOE of the BITCHYS. ee 


Nt 


| 
(Au 


L 


4 
© 
B 
9 
§ 
3 
| 
6 
vA 
< 
ie) 


ee 2 ‘They 
joined the ifland à 
their canoe along the 
nd,: that after having 
ñ this manner pufhed 


which thay, ‘bad aut 

the beach fome: of the 
fcribed the extremity of 

led, they placed'it on the 

is marine plant alfo grew on 
‘the 


76 _ LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787. 
the bank they traverféd. This account made upon 
othe fpot by travellers who came from the river—an 
‘account fo'coincident with the refult of our own: ob- 


fervations, fince we had advanced till we had only fix | 


fathoms water, left no doubt in our minds.. : To re- 


-concile the information: of thefe people: with thofe 


of Langle Bay; ‘it fuffices, that at high water there 
is, at fome. part of the fand-bank, an opening of 
- three or four feet water, a depth more than fuffi- 


“cient for their canoes. As this was an interefting | 


enquiry, and had never been refolved before, I’went 
on fhore next morning, and held a converfation by 
figns, of which the refult was precifely the fame, : In 
fhort;: M. de Langle and myfelf defired M. Lavaux, 
«who had a peculiar fagacity in exprefling and under- 
-ftanding foreign languages, to make further refearches. 

: He-found the Bitchys invariably uniform in their ac- 

~ count; and therefore I announced my intention: of 
fending my long-boat to the éxtremity of the guilph, 
which could not be above ten or twelve leagues from 
‘the bay of Caftries. This plan would have ‘been at- 
tended with great inconveniences, for the lcaft:breeze 
- from’ the fouth caufes a heavy fea at the extremity 
- of that channel, infomuch that an ‘open ‘boat is! in 
danger of filling: with water, the waves breaking as 
on a bar. Befides this, the perpetual fogs, and the 
obftinacy of the fouth wind, would render the time 
of the long-boat’s return very uncertain, and we had 


not a moment to lofe.. Thus in lieu of fending the . 


long-boat to clear up a point of geography, on which 
no doubt could remain, I propofed to iredonble our 
activity, to quit a gulph in which we had ‘been navi- 
gating during three months, had ‘frequently traverfed 
in every direction, and conftantly founded, as well 
for out own fecurity, as in order to leave ‘nothing 
unaccomplifhed that geographers could defire. 

The lead alone could be our guide in the midft of 


the fogs, which had fo long enveloped.us. Thishow- — 


ever 


a à OP Oo D ll = NN + et mm tt (D 1 


pfearches. 
their ac- 
pation’ nf 
ne gulph, 
rues from 
‘been at- 
aft: breeze 
extremity 
oat, is'.in 
eaking as 
and the 

the time 
d we had 


ding the . 


on which 
double our 
den navi- 
traverfed 
, a8. well 
; nothing 
fire. 

e midft of 


Thishow- | 


ever 


1787]! ROUND) THE WORLD. : 77. 
evet did not exhauft our patience, nor did. we omit 
. taking the bearing ofa. fingle point-on either coaft.. 
Only one\interefting point. remained to: be refolved, 

that of the fouthern’ extremity of: Segalien Ifland, 
which we had only explored as far as Langle Bay, in: 


479.49 3 and I confefs I might perhaps have left that: 


L- care to others, even-had:it been poffible' to pañs the 


ftrait, becaufe the-feafon was advancing,:and I could: 
not lofe fight of the extreme difficulty: of recovering 
two ‘hundred leagues to windward, in fo narrow a 
channel, covered with fog, and:where the foutherly. 
winds had néver varied two; points to the eaft or weft. 
I. knew indeed by the accounts of the) Kaftricum;; 
that the Dutch had found the winds northerly.in the 
month of Auguft ; but I'muft obferve, that they na-: 
vigated on the eaftern coaft of their pretended Jeflo'; 
and that we, on the contrary, wereingulphed between 
two cohfts, whofe extremity is within the dominion: 


| of the monfoons which: prevail on the coafts of Chi- 
 na-and Corea till the month of ‘Oétober. - 


As. it appeared that there exified) no caufe, to, 
change the winds from the direction they ‘had re- 
ceived on thofe coafts, thefe reflections increafed my: 
ardour to depart, and I ultimately fixed 'the 2d-of 
Auguft: for: that fep.. Fhe interval was employed 
in exploring fome part of the bay,,dnd: the various 
iflands by: which it is formed, : Our naturalifts made 
excurfions on evéry point .of the coaft which: ap- 
peared capable of: fatisfying our curiofity. M. de 
Lamanon himfelf, though he had experienced a long 
illnefs, from which he ‘had very flowly recovered, de- 
termined to:‘accompany us. ‘The lava and other vols 
canic fubftances, which he was informed conftituted) 
the foil: of thefe-iflands, prevented him from feeling 
his indifpofition. He difcovered, together with the. 


. Abbé Mongès, and Father Receveur, that moft of. ' 


the fubftances in the environs of the bay and of the 
iflands which form its entrance, wercred lava, (fome. 
| : folid, 


78 LA-PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
folid, fome porous) grey bafaltes, tabular or in nodules, 
and, laftly, trapps, which appeared not to: have been 
attacked by the fire, but which had furnifhed the 
matter of ‘the lava and bafaltes, that had) been 
melted in this furnace. Various cryftallizations were 
found among thefe volcanic fubftances, the eru 
tion of which appeared very ancient. . They could 
not, however, difcover the craters of thefe volca~- 
noes. A ftay of feveral weeks would have been ne- 
ceffary to have ftudied and purfued the traces that 
might have led to them. AU 
M. de la Martinière explored, with his ufual ac- 
tivity; the beds and courfes of the river; in order to 
difcover new: plants on their ‘banks; but he only 
found the fame fpecies he:had feen on the ‘bays of 
Ternai and Suffren, and that in fmaller quantities, 
Vegetation was nearly in the fame ftate as in the en- 
virons of Paris in the middle of May. Strawberries 
and rafpberries were ftill in bloom; goofeberries 
began to redden, and celery and water-creflés were 
very fcarce., Our conchologifts were more fortu- 
nate. They found extremely fine foliated oyfter- 
fhells, of a vinous and black colour, but fo clofely ad- 
hering to the rock, that it required great dexterity 
to detach them ; and their valves were fo thin, that 
it was extremely difficult to preferve them: entire. 
We alfo took up, with the:dredge, fome whelks of 
a fine colour, fome peélines, fmall mufcles of the 
moft ordinary fpecies, and fome varieties of the kima 
cockle. re 
- Our hunters killed feveral pullets, fome wild ducks, 
cormorants, plover, white .and black wagtails, and a 
{mall blue fly-catcher, of which we have no defcription 
by any ornithologifl. All thefe fpecies of birds are but 
thinly fcattered, for in thefe climates, which are al- 
moft conftantly frozen, the nature of all animals 
appears torpid. The cormorant and the gulls, which 
under a more favourable fky flock: together, dwell 
here 


[1787. 
n nodules, 
have been 
ifhed ‘the 
had\ been 
tions were 
the ad 
hey could 
efe. volca- 
* been ne- 
races that 


ufual ace 
n order to 
t he only 
e ‘bays of 
quantities. 
in the en- 
rawberries 
oofeberries 
refles were 
ore fortu- 
ed oyfter- 
clofely ad- 
| dexterity 
thin, that 
em: entire. 
:whelks of 
les of the 
f the kima 


vild ducks, 
ails, and a 
defcription 
rds are but 
ich are al- 
Il animals 
ils, which 
her, dwell 
here 


1787:| ROUND THE WORLD. | 79 
here in folitude on the fummits of rocks. A deep fet- 
tled melancholy feems to prevail both on the beach 
and in the woods, which écho but with the croaking 
of ravens, and afford refuge to bald’ éagles.and other | 
birds of prey. ‘The ‘marten and fahd-marten alone 
appear to be in their natural climate. We faw nefts 
and flights of them under all the rocks that project 
in vaulted majefty over the fea, ‘I believe the bird 
moft general throughout the globe is the chimney 
or water fwallow, for I have found fome fpecies of 
them in every country where T have travelled, 

Though I did not dig into the earth, 1 am of opi- 
nion that it continues frozen, to ‘a ‘certain ‘depth, 
throughout the fummer, becaufe the water we took 
in was only a degree and a half above’ the freezing- 
point, and that of thé ftreams never above four. 
The mercury however was ‘conftantly at fifty-nine de: 
grees, even in the open'air: This momentary heat 
penetrates but a little way, it only quickens vegeta- 
tion, whofe reign begins and ‘ends in the ‘fhort {pace 
of three months, and infinitely multiplies gnats, muf- 
kitoes, and other troublefome infects. eee 

No kind of plants are cultivated by the ‘ natives: 


| _ They feem, however, very fond of vegetable fub- 


ftances, The grain of the Mantchous, which may 
perhaps be a fmall fhelled millet, was their greateft 
luxury. They gather with great care fome fponta- 
neous roots, which they dry for their winter provi- 
fion; among others the yellow lilly, or faranna, 
which is, in faét, a fpecies of onion. Poffeffing a 
very inferior conftitution, and far lefs induftry than 
the inhabitants of Segalien, they are not, like them, 
accuftomed to the ufe of the fhuttle, and are only 
dreffed with the moft ordinary of the Chinefe ma- 
nufactures, or the exuviæ of fome terreftrial ani- 
mals and feals, We killed one of the latter, by 
friking him with a ftick. Our gardener, M. Colig- 
non, found it fleeping on the beach, and it was in no 

refpeét 


80 LA PBROUSE’S VOYAGE (1786, 
refpoct different from thofe.of Labrador and Hudfon's 
Bay. : This.incident was followed by.an unfortunate 
event... À, torrent. of rain, having furprized, bim in 
the .wood,. where: he was fowing European Brain, he 
began. to light,a;fire; but imprudently making ule 
of gunpowder for that purpofe, which communicat- 
ing with a) powder. flafk in his-hand, the explofion 
broke the. bone.ofthis thumb, and he was fo fevereiy 
wounded, that: he owed. the prefervation of his arm 
to the fkill..of: M. Rollin, :our furgeon-major, I 
fhall take this opportunity to fay, that M. Rollin, 
while he divided, his care, among all the; crew, ‘paid 

articular attention.to thofe who feemed to enjoy the 
fet health, He. had obferved fymptoms of {curvy 
in feveral, announced by fwellings intheir gums and 
legs: . This diforder broke out:on. fhore, and would 
have yielded, to a:ftay of fix weeks; but we could 
not fpare that time at the bay of Caftries. .We flat 
tered. ourfelves, however, that fweet-wort.. fpruce, 
and an infufion of Peruvian bark. in the water, drank 


by the crew, would difpel thefe flight fymptoms, and 
thus enable us to wait an opportunity when we might 
remain.a longer time in port. 2.) 1,1, 


(1786, 
ludion's 
ortunate 
d, him in 
pra he 
king ute 
nunicat- 
xplofion 
 fevereiy 
his arm 
najor, I 
. Rollin, 
ew, paid 
enjoy the 
of fcurvy 
rums and 
ad would 
we could 
We flat- 
» Spruce, 
er, drank 
oms, and 
we might 


\ 


r Le «5 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 


CHAP. XX. | 

DEPARTURE FROM THE BAY OF CASTRIES—DISCOVERY 
OF THE STRAIT WHICH SEPARATES JESSO AND 
OKU-JESSO*—-WE PUT INTO THE BAY OF CRIL- 
LON, OFF THE POINT OF THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA 
OR SEGALIEN-—DESCRIPTION OF THE INHABITANTS 
AND THEIR VILLAGE—WE CROSS THE STRAIT AND 
RECOGNIZE ALL THE LANDS DISCOVERED BY THE 
DUTCH ON BOARD THR KASTRICUM STATEN 
ISLAND—VRIESS STRAIT—COMPANY'S LAND— 
ISLAND OF THE FOUR BROTHERS—ISLAND OF MA- 
REKA—WE PASS BETWEEN THE KURILES, AND 
SHAPE OUR COURSE FOR KAMTSCHATKA. 


N the fecond of Auguft, as I had before an- 
O nounced, we fet fail with a light breeze from 


"thé weft, which only prevailed at the top of the 


bay: The fouth winds met us at a league off fhore, 
from the point of Cloftercam. They were at firft 
very moderate, and attended with clear weather. 
We plied to windward with confiderable fuccefs, 
making. very favourable boards. I endeavoured, in 
particular, to reconnoitre the fmall part of the coaft 
of Tartary, of which we had loft fight, from the 
Agth degree to the 50th, in confequence of having 


* The charts of hydrographers preferve the names of almoft all 
the ancient navigators applied to fome of their difcoveries. Thefe 
names, which their modefty would have rejeéted, were doubtlefs 
pre upon them by the folicitations of their crews or officers. 

ut La Péroufe, ftill more modeft, refufed to accede to this cuftom. 
His name, too intimately united with the terreftrial globe by his 
difcoveries and misfortunes, is not in danger of falling into obli- 
vion. But Leing obliged, in order to avoid miftakes, to change 
the name of the ftrait he difcovered between Jeflo and Oku-Jeffo, 


D. I thought it impoffible to replace it in a manner more confortnable 


to the national opinion, than by naming it Ze frais of La Péroufe. 
— French Eaitor, 


Vou. IL G _ failed 


‘82 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


failed very clofe to the Ifland of Segalien. On my 
return, therefore, I ranged along the coaft of the 
continent to the point of our laft bearings, in fight 
of Peak Lamanon. On the 6th, the weather, which 
had till then been very fine, became extremely 
bad. We encountered a gale of wind from the 
fouth, Iefs alarming on account of its own violence 
than of the very rough fea it occafioned. We were 
obliged to carry all the fail our veffels could bear, 
in order, as much as poffible, to avoid falling to lee- 
ward ; and that we might not lofe, in one day, what 
we had been three days in gaining. The Cane. 
ter funk to 27 inches 5 lines, and the rain, the fog, 
the wind, our fituation in a channel whofe limits 
were concealed in fog; every thing contributed to 
render our fituation at leaft extremely fatiguing. 
Yet thefe fqualls, at which we murmured, were the 
harbingers of northerly winds, on which we had not 
reckoned. They began to blow on the 8th, after a 
‘ ftorm, and enabled us, on the night of the gth, to 

et into the latitude of Langle Bay, which we had 
eft on the fourteenth of July. After the accident 
that had happened to our afironomical tent, in the 
. Bay of Caftries, it was of great importance again to 
find this point, of which the longitude had been per- 
feétly well determined in our firft pañäge, It would 
ferve to afcertain the regularity of our time-kcepers, 
by comparing, with the known longitude of Langle 
Bay, that which would be given by our time-keepers 
for the fame point. The refult of our obfervations 
was, that after 27 days, No. 19 placed us 34 minutes 
of a degree too much to the eaftward. This error 
equally divided between the 27 days, would give an 
increafc of 5" in the daily lofs of the time-keepers, 
which, at Cavita, was but 12” per day. But M. 
Dagelet, who very frequently compared the refults 
of our lunar obfervations with thofe given by No. 19, 
had remarked the period when that time-keeper ia 

| varic 


[1787. 
On m 
ft of the 
A in fight 
er, which 
extremely 
from the 
, violence 
We were 
ould bear, 
ng to lee- 
day, what 
e barome- 
1, the fog, 
10fe limits 
ributed to 
fatiguing. 
, were the 
we had not 
3th, after a 
the oth, to 
ich we had 
e accident 
ent, in the 
ce again to 
d been per- 
It would 
me-kcepers, 
e of Langle 
ime-keepers 
bfervations 
34 minutcs 
This error 
puld give an 
me-keepers, 
r, But M. 
i the refults 
by No. 19, 
p-keeper had 
varicd 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 83 


varied from the daily rate it went at during our ftay at 
Cavita: and as he was confident thefe refults would 
agree, if we fuppofed a lofs of 20" per day, inftead 
of that of 12", obferved at Cavita, he thought he 
ought to eftablith. that rate for the calculations 'by 
the time-kecper No. 19, during the’27 days elapfed 
between our departure from Langle Bay, and our 
return within fight of the fame point. We have, 
therefore, reafon to think that all the weftern part of 
the Ifland of Segalien, as well as the eaft coaft of Tar- 
tary, which form the two fides of the channel, will 
be laid down in our chart, with a degree of accuracy 
that wilt not leave. an uncertainty of a quarter of a 
degree in their fituation. 

A bank, on which the foundings are extremely 
regular, and where there is no danger, extends 10 
leagues N. and 8. oppofite to Langle Bay, and rans 
out about 8 leagues to the weftward. We paffed it 
in running to the fouthward, and I lay to from 10 
o'clock at night till day break, in order not to leave 
the fmalleft inlet without being reconnoitered. The 
next day we continued ranging along the coaft, at 
two leagues diftance, and perceived, bearing S. W. 
a {mall flat ifland, forming, with that of Segalien, a 
channel about fix leagues wide. I gave it the name 
of Ife Monneron, from the officer of engineers em- 
ployed in this expedition. We directed our courfe 
between thefe iflands, where we never found lefs 
than 50 fathoms water. We foon got fight of a 
peak, whofe height was at leaft 1000 or 1200 toifes, 
which feemed to confift entirely of bare rock, and 
to preferve the fnow in its hollows. We percciv- 
ed neither trees nor verdure on it. I gave it the 
nameof Pic de Langle*. At the fame time, we faw 

“other 


* This peak is in 40 deg, 15 min. N. lat. Capt. Vries, who 
commanded the Kattricum, on making the land of Jeffo, in the 
| month of June, 1633, alfo difcovered a remarkable peak in 44 deg. 

G 2 59 


84 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE (1787. 
other lands lefs elevated. The Coaft of Segalien 
terminated in a point, and we perceived no longer a 
double range of mountains; for -every thing an- 
nounced that we were almoft at its fouthern extre- 
mity, and that the lands to which the peak belonged 
‘were upon another ifland. We anchored at night 
with this hope, which became next day a certainty, 
when a calm obliged us again to anchor off the 
fouth point of the Ifland of Segalien. This point, 
which I named Cape Crillon, is fituated in 45° 57’ N. 
fat. and 140° 34’ E. long. It terminates this ifland, 
which is one of the moft extenfive, from north to 
fouth, on the globe; and is feparted from Tartary 
by achannel, ending in fand banks to the north- 
ward, between which there is no paffage for fhips, 
although there is probably fome channel for canoes, 


through the fea-weeds that obftruct the ftrait. This 


fame ifland is Oku-Jeffo*: whereas the ifland of 7 
- «Chicha, which was abreaft of us, and which is fe- 7 
parated from that of Segalien by a channel 12 leagues 
wide, and from Japan by the ftrait of Sangaar, is 


the Jeflo of the Japanefe, and extends to the |) 


fouthward as far asthe ftrait of Sangaar.. The chain 7 
of the Kurile Iflands is much further to the eaftward, ! 
and forms, together with Jeffo and Oku-Jeffo, an- | 
other fea, communicating with that of Okhotik, 
and from whence there is no paflage to arrive on the À 
Coaft of Tartary, but by traverfing either the firait À 
we-had juft difcovered, in 45° 40’, or that of San- # 
gaar, after having failed out from between the || 


Fn shins N lat. which, be called Anthony's Peak. Thefe peaks, 4 
tuated to the fouthward of the ftrait of La Péroufe, will render #2 


‘At extremely-eafÿ to recognize. It is, however, probable that the 
Jand laid down in the maps; under the name of feflo, is an affem. M 
blagetof feveral iflands.— French Editor. 1% 


. # Oku-Jeffo fignifies Upper Jeffo, or North Jeffo. The Chi- 4 
nefe call it Za-ban.—French Editor. # 


Kuriles. 3 


(1787. 
” Segalien 
> longer a 
thing an- 
rn. extre- 
. belonged 
1 at night 
certainty, 
r off the 
his point, 
450 57’ N. 
this ifland, 
n north to 
m Tartary 
the north- 
e for fhips, 
for canoes, 
trait. This 
e ifland of 
thich is fe- 
12 leagues 
Sangaar, is 
ids to the 
The chain 
Le eaftward, 
-Jéflo, an- 
F Okhotfk, 
rive on the 
er the ftrait 
hat of San- 
etween the 


Thefe peaks, 


fe, will render 


obable that the a 


lo, is an affem- 


flo. The Chi- 


_Kuriles. 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 85 


Kuriles, This point of geography, the moft impor- 

tant that modern navigators had left to be deter- 

mined by their fucceflors”, coft us may fatigues, 
an 


* An impenetrable darknefs has till now enveloped the 
parts of the globe called Jeff and Oku-Jeffo, concerning whofe 

fition the opinions of geographers had been fo various, that it 
was doubtful whether their exiftence was not chimerical. In fact, 
if we confult the maps of Afia of the following g phers, we 
fhall fee, that in 1650, Sanfon reprefents Corea as an ifland, while 
Teflo, Oku-Jeffo, and Kamtfchatka, have no place, and the ftrait of 
Anian is laid down feparating Afia from North America. 

In 1700, William de Lifle joined Jeffo to Oku- Jeffo, and extend- 
ed them as far as the ftrait of Sangaar, under the name of Jeffo 
land, 

Danville, in 1732, publifhed a map of this part of Afia much 
nearer the truth than that which he produced twenty years after- 
wards, in which the gulf and cape of Aniva form part of the con- 
tinent, and Cape Patience is the fouthernmoft point of the ifland of 
Segalien. Thefe charts and fome of the following have fallen into 
the fame error, with ag to the bay of Teffoy. 

Defnos, like Danville, has retarded the fcience of #4 hy, 
by his map of 1770, which is much inferior to that publi by 
him in 1761. 

In 1744, Hafius made Jefo, Cape Aniva, and Cape Patience, 
form a peninfula adjoining Tartary, from which it was partly fe- 
pie by a guif, the entrance into which was through the ftrait of 

effoy. 

A ore of Afia, without. date or author’s name, but which muft 
have been printed fince the voyage of the Kaftricum, reprefents the 
two Jeffoes as two iflands, independently of the ifland of Segalien. 
The intermediate Jeffo feen by the Dutch, comprehends the gulf 
and Cape Aniva, but we muft remark, that the fecond Jeffo is fe- 
parated from Segalien by a ftrait laid down in 44 deg., which 
proves; that they already conjectured the exiftence of the ftrait dif- 
covered by La Péroufe, fufpected by Father du Halde, and adopt- 
ed, though afterwards rejected, by Danville. 

Robert, in 1767, Robert de Vaugondy, in 1775, Brion, in 1784, 

and William de Lifle jointly with Philip Buache, in 1788, have fuc- 
ceffively copied and perpetuated the fame errors. 
_ In fhort, we cannot better depi& the chaos of our ideas concern- 
ing this part of the globe, of which our ancient knowledge has been 
fo learnedly difcufled and compared by Philip Buache, than by 
the following extraét from Confiderations Géogra Siow, page 115. 

“ Jeffo, after having been tranfported to the eait, attached to 
“the fouth, and then to the weit, was at laft removed to the 


*¢ north,” 
G3 My 


86 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
and required great caution, becaufe the fogs render 

navigation in thefe feas extremely difficult. Since the 
10th of April, when we had departed from Manilla, 
till the day when we paffed the ftrait, we only put in 
for three days into the Bay of Vernai, one into Langle 
Bay, and five into the Bay of Caftries, for I do not 
include our anchoring on the open coaft, although 
we might fend to reconnoitre the land, and at thefe 
anchorages procured fome fifh. It was at Cape 
Crillon that we received the firft vifit from the 
iflanders, for they had received ours without fhow- 
ing the fmalleft curiofity or defire to fee our veflels. 
At firft they fhowed fome diftrufi, and would not 
approach till we had pronounced feveral. words of 
the vocabulary which M. Lavaux had made at Lan- 
gle Bay. If their fear was at firft confiderable, their 
confidence now became extreme. They came on 
board our fhips, as if we had been their dearcft 
friends, fat in a circle on the quarter-deck and fmoked 
their pipes. We loaded them with prefents, giving 
them nankeens, filks, utenfils of iron, beads, tobacco, 
and in general whatever I thought would be agrce- 
able to them. I foon perceived that brandy and 
tobacco were the articles they prized the moft, yct 
thefe I was moft careful to diftribute fparingly, be- 
caufe the latter was neceflary for our crew, and I 
fcared the confequences of the former. We remark- 
ed that in the Bay of Crillon the countenances of 
the inhabitants were more particularly beautiful, and 
of a very regular proportion. They were firong 
made, and had the appearance of great vigour. 
Their beards hung upon their breaft, and their arms, 


My only intention, in thefe comparifons, is to eftablifh by in- 
conteftible proof, that the geography of the eaftern part of Afia 
was in its infancy in 1788, an era fubfequent to the departure ol 
our unfortunate navigator, and that we are indebted to his perfe- 
verance, zeal, and courage, for the knowledge which has at length 
cleared up our doubts—French Editor, ; 


neck, 


[1787. 


Since the 
Manilla, 
pnly put in 
nto Langle 
br I do not 
, although 
d at thefe 
s at Cape 

from the 
hout fhow- 
our veflels. 
would not 
nl. words of 
ide at Lan- 
rable, their 
y came on 
igir dearcft 
nd fmoked 


nts, giving 


ds, tobacco, 


| be agree- 
brandy and 
e moft, yet 
ingly, be- 
crew, and E 
Ve remark- 
tenances of 
autiful, and 
vere firong 
cat vigour. 
their arms, 


ftablifh by in- 
1 part of Afia 
e departure of 
d to his perfe- 
has at length 


neck, 


ogs render 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 87 


neck, and back, were covered with hair. I make 
this obfervation merely becaufe it is a general cha- 
racteriftic, for it is eafy to find individuals equally hairy 
in Europe. 1 think their middle ftature about an 
inch lefs than that of the French, but this is difficult 
to difcover, on account of their juft proportion, and 
their ftrongly marked mufcles, which made them ap- 
pear in general fine figures. ‘Their fkin is as dark 
.coloured as that of the Algerines, and other nations 
of the coaft of Barbary. | 

Their manners are ferious, and their thanks were 
expretied by noble geftures; but their requefts for 
more prefents were repeated, even to inportunity. 
Their gratitude, however, did not extend fo far as to 
offer us even a falmon in their turn, although their 
canoes were full, and they returned with a part, be- 
caufe we refufed paying the exorbitant price they de- 
manded; yet they had accepted gratuitoufly our 
cloths, ftuffs, iron utenfils, beads, &c. for the joy of 
having difcovered another ftrait befides that of San- 
gaar had rendered us generous. 

We could not but remark how much the gratitude 
of thefe Iflanders differed from that of the Orotchys 
of the bay of Caftries, who, far from atking for pre- 
tents, often obftinately refufed them; and were ex- 
tremely urgent that we would permit them to return 
the obligation. If, however, their moral principles 
are inferior to thofe of the Tartars of that country, 
they have a decided fuperiority by their induftry and 
phyfical powers. 

All the clothes of thefe Iflanders are wove by their 
own hands, and their houfes prefent a degree of neat- 
nefs and elegance to which thofe of the continent do 
not approach. ‘heir furniture is made with fkill, 
and almoft entirely of Japanefe manufacture. They 
have one article of trade extremely important, and 
unknown in the channel of Tartary, and the barter 
of which procures them all their riches, I mean whale 

G4 oil. 


88. LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787 


oil. Though they make a confiderable quantity ; their 
mode of extracting it is by no means the moft œco- | 
nomical. They cut the flefh of the whale in pieces, 

and leave it to rot on a declivity expofed to the fun. 
The oil that rups from it is received in veffels made 
of the bark of trees, or of feal fkin. It is to be re- 
marked, however, that we did not fee a fingle whale to 
the weftward of the ifland, and that they abound on 
its eaftern coaft. We cannot doubt that thefe Iflan- 
ders are a different race of men from thofe we had 
obferved on the continent, although they are fepa- 
rated from it by a channel, not more than three or 
four leagues acrofs, and obftructed by fand-banks and 
fea-weed ; yet they purfue the fame mode of life, 
and hunting and fifhing (particularly the latter) fur- 
nifh the greater part of their fubfiftence. They leave 
the moft fertile lands uncultivated, and they feem, in 
both countries, to have neglected the care of flocks, 
which they might have brought from the upper part 
of the “Segalien, or from Japan. Thus fimilar food 
appears to have formed very different conftitutions. 
The cold of the iflands is indeed much lefs rigorous 
in the fame latitude than that of the continent; but 
this caufe alone cannot have produced fo remarkable 
a difference. I am of opinion, therefore, that the 
Bitchys, the Orotchys, and the other Tartars of the 
coaft, as far as the neighbourhood of the northern 
coaft of Segalien, have a common origin with the 
Kamtfchadales and Koriacs; and that this race of 
men, like the Laplanders and Samoiedes, are to the 
human fpecies what their ftunted birches and _ firs 
are to the foreft trees of the more fouthern climates. 
The inhabitants of the iflands of Segalien are, on the 
contrary, a very fuperior race to the Japanefe, Chi- 
nefe, and Mantchou Tartars; and their countenance 
more regular and more fimilar to thofe of Europeans. 
But it is extremely difficult to decypher the archives of 
_ the world, fo as to difcover the origin of nations, and 
| ss travellers 


[1787 
ty ; their 


oft œco- 


n pièces, 
the fun. 
els made 
o be re- 
whale to 
ound on 
fe Iflan- 
we had 
are fepa- 
three or 
anks and 
: of life, 
ter) fur- 
hey leave 
feem, in 
f flocks, 
pper part 
ilar food 
titutions. 
rigorous 
ent; but 
markable 
that the 
ars of the 
northern 
vith the 
s race of 
re to the 
and firs 
climates. 
e, on the 
efe, Chi- 
ntenance 
ropeans. 
‘chives of 
ions, and 
travellers 


1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 89 
travellers muft leave it to their readers to draw infer- 
ences from their narratives. 

‘Our firft enquiries regarded the geography of the 


- jfland, part of which was already betttr known to us 


than toits inhabitants. ‘They feemed to be in theha- 
bit of delineating countries, for, with a fingle ftroke, 
they defcribed the part we had juft explored, as far 
as the Segalien, leaving a narrow paflage for their 
canoes: and they marked each night’s refting place, 
and gave it aname. In fhort, we cannot doubt that 
although at a diftance of above 150 leagues from the 
mouth of that river, they are all perfectly acquainted 
with it. Without this river, which forms a commu- 
nication with: the Mantchou Tartars who trade with 
China, the Bitchys, the Orotchys, and the Segaliens, 
and, in general, all the inhabitants of thefe maritime 
countries, would know as little of the Chinefe and 
their merchandize, as the inhabitants of America. 
Their knowledge was however deficient when they 
delineated the eaftern coaft of the ifland ; for they 
drew it on the fame line north and fouth, and feemed 
ignorant that it lay in a diffcrent direétion. Thus 
we were left in doubt, and imagined, for a moment, 
that Cape Crillon concealed from us a deep gulf, after . 
which the coaft would again trend to the fouthward. 
This opinion, however, was fcarcely probable. The 
ftrength of the current from the ealtward announced 
an opening ; but as we were in a dead calm, and pru- 
dence did not admit of our fuffering the current to 
carry us to leeward too near the cape, M. de Langle 
and myfelf thought it neceflary to fend a boat on 
fhore under the command of M. de Vaujuas, to whom 
we gave orders to afcend the fummit of Cape Crillon, : 
and thence to take the-bearings of all the lands he 
fhould perceive beyond it. This officer returning be- 
fore night, his account confirmed our firft opinion, and 


_ We were convinced that we could not be too circum- 


fpect, or too much on our guard againft miftakes, 
when 


00 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE 


when we withed to defcribe an extenfiver¢ 

from data fo vague and fo fubje& todhifion 

we had been able to procure. Thefe 

their navigatic®, to pay no refpect | 

direction. A cove three or four! 

canoe, appeared to them an extént 

fathom of water an almoft immegfuräl 

thcir fcale of comparifon is their ‘cand 

but a few inches of water, and is but twa 
M. de Vaujuas paid a vifity: -before 

the village on the point, whére hes 

received, having made fome exchar 

bronght “bask fome. falmon. He fi 

better built, and more richly füurnifh 

d'Efaing Bay ; ; and the infide of feverak 

large varnifhed Japan vafes. As the i 

lien is only feparated from that ef Ch 

12 leagues wide, it is eafier for the tit 

part of its coaft to procure their mt 

Japan, than for their countrymen moi 

ward. But the latter are nearer to the: 

and the Mantchou Tartars, to whom the 

whale oil, which is the bafis of their comm 
The Iflanders who vifited us, retired bé 

and gave us to underftand, by figns, that they. 

return the next day. They came on “hi 

day- break with fome falmon, which ther 

for hatchets and knives. They alfo fo, 

and a cloth drefs of their country, and f 

afflicted when they faw us pr epare to: 

were very urgent that we fhouid double Cape: 

and put into a creck which they delineated, à 

cd Tabouoro. This was the gulf of Aniva,, 
A light breeze fpringing up from the N. EB 

the fignal to get under way, and fhaped tay 

firtt to the S. E.; to give a good. birth 4 

lon, which is keithiniatad by an iflety sock, 

which the tide fet with the he 4 frat 


| 


| 


| 
| 


| 


i] 


: 


| 


| 
| 


3 


a 


Wi 


lil | 


1787.]J | ROUND THE WORLD. gt 


foon as we had doubled it, we perceived, from the 
inaft-head, a fecond rock, which appeared four leagues 
from the point towards the 8. E. I named it Za 
Dangereufe, becaufe it lies even with the furface of 
the fea, and may, perhaps, be covered at high water. 
I fteered to leeward of this rock, and pafied round it 
at the diftance of a league. The fea broke very 
much upon it, but I was unable to difcover whether 
this was the effect of the tide, or of the fhoals that 
furrouna it. | 
At this diftance the depth of water was conftantly 
23 fathoms, and encreafed when we had doubled it. 
We then foon came into 50 fathoms water, and the 
current appeared to be moderate. We had hitherto 
crofied in this channel, tide-ways fironger than thofe 
of du Four, or du Raz of Breft. We only found 
them, however, on the coaft of Segalien, or on the 
northern fide of this ftrait. (The fouthern coaft, to- 
wards the ifland of Chicha, is much lefs expofed to 
them. But we were buffeted about by a fwell from 
the offing, or from the eaftward, which put us in the 
greatc{t danger, throughout the night, of running foul 
of the Aftrolabe, as a dead calin prevailed, and nei- 
ther of our fhips had fteerage way. We found our- 
felves the next day a little to the fouthward of our 
reckoning, though not more than ten miles to the 
northward of the village of Acqueis, fo named in 
the voyage of the Kaftricum. We had juft traverfed 
he ftrait which feparates Jeffo from Oku-Jeflo, and 
were very near the anchoring-place of the Dutch at 
Acqucis. That firait had, doubtlefs, been concealed 
from them by fogs; and it is highly probable, that 
fummits of mountains on each of the iflands, had led’ 
them to believe they were joined together by low- 
lands; and, in confequence of this opinion, they 
have laid down acontinuation of coaft in the very {pot 
where we paffed. With the exception of this error, ° 
their journals are nearly accurate. We fet Cape 
: | Aniva 


[2 


92 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


Aniva nearly in the fame point of the compafs laid 
down in the Dutch maps, and perceived alfo the gulf 
to which the Kaftricum gave the fame name of Aniva, 
It is formed by-the cape of that name, and Cape Cril- 
lon. The latitude of thefe capes only differ ten or 
twelve minutes, and their longitude, after paffing 
Cape Nabo, lefs than a degree from thofe we had 
determined : a precifion which, confidering the time 
when the expedition of the Kaftricum took. place, is 
truly aftonifhing. I formed a refolution not to alter 
any of the names given by the Dutch, whenever a fimi- 
litude in their relations has made ine recognize them. 
But it is very fingular that the Dutch, when fteering 
from Acqueis for the gulf of Aniva, paffed before the 
mouth of the ftrait we had difcovered, without ima- 
gining, when they had anchored at Aniva, that they 
were upon another ifland ; fo fimilar are the external 
appearances, manners, and mode of life, of thefe two 
nations. | | 
Though the weather was very fine the next day, 
we made but little way to the eaftward. We faw 
Cape Aniva bearing N. W., and perceived the eaftern 
coaft, which recedes again to the northward, towards 
Cape Patience, in the latitude of 49°. This point 
was the utmoft limit of the navigation of Captain 
Vries: and as his longitudes from Cape Nabo are 
nearly accurate, the Dutch chart, of which we veri- 
fied a fufficient number of points to eftablifh its claim 
to our confidence, gave us the breadth of the ifland 
of Segalien as far as the 4gth degree. The weathér 
continued fine, but the E. S.:E. winds, which had 
conftantly prevailed during four days, retarded our 
advancing towards the Staten Ifland and Company’s 
land. Our latitude on the 15th was, by obfervation, 
469 9’ N., and our long. 142° 57’ E. We did not 
ffien fee any land, and we endeavoured repeatedly, 
though in vain, to. firike ground with a line of 200 

fathoms, a 
in 


* 


[1787. 
_. laid 
the gulf 
| nd 
pe Cril- 
r ten or 
paffing 
we had 
he time 
place, is 
to alter 
ra fimi- 
ze them. 
fteering 
efore the 
ut ima- 
hat they 
external 
hefe two 


ext day, 
We faw 
e eaftern 
, towards 
his point 
: Captain 
Nabo are 
we veri- 
1 its claim 
he ifland 
> weathér 
hich had 
rded our 
‘ompany’s 
fervation, 
‘e did not 
epcatcdly, 
1e of 200 


© On 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 93 


On the 16th and-17th the fky was overcaft and 
watery, and the fun invifible. The wind came round 
to the eaftward, and I tacked to the fouthward, in 
order to appteach Staten Ifland, of which we had a 
perfect view. On the 19th we obferved Cape Troun 
bearing fouth, and Cape Vries S. E. by E., the very 
points on which they ought to bear of us, according 
to the Dutéh*chart Modern navigators could not 
have determined their pofition with greater accuracy. 

On the 20th me faw Company's Land, and dif- 
tinguithed the Strait of Vries, which, however, was 
very foggy. ‘We ranged ‘the northern coaft of the 
Company's Laril,\at*the diftance of 3 or 4 leagues. 
It is barren and deftitute of trees or verdure, and 
appeared uninhabited and uninhabitable. We re- 
marked the white fpots, mentioned by the Dutch, 
and took them at firft:for fnow ; but, on a more at- 
tentive examination, we perceived in the rocks large 
clefts of the-colour'of plafier. At 6 in the evening 
we were a-breaft of-the N. E. point of this ifland, 
which terminates in avery fteep cape; I named it 
Cape Kaftrigum, from the veffel to which we owe its 
difcovery. We petceivedbeyond it a little ifland, 
and to the north a:ivide channel, apparently open to 
the E.N. E. and féparatingithe Kurile Iflands from 
Company's Land, wwhofe.name-ought to be religioufly 
preferved tot, and to:prevaib over thofe it may have 
received from the Ruffians, more than a century 
after the voyage of Capt:-Vries. 

The 21ft, 22d, and 23d, were fo foggy, that. it 
was impoffible to continue our courfe to the eaft- 
ward, a-breaft: of the Kuriles, which we fhould not 
have beeñ able to:perceive at two cables’ length. 
We therefore continued ftanding off and on at the 
mouth of the firait, where the fea appeared to be dif- 
turbed by no current. Yet our obfervations of lon- 
gitude on the 23d apprifed us, that we had been 
drifted 40:miles to. the weflward in two days. We 

verified 


Qt LA PÉROUSE'S YorAGn. [1787. 


verified this obfervation on the 24th, by fetting the 
fame points we had feen on the 21ft, precifely where 
they ought to bear of us according to our longitude 
by obfervation. The weather, although very foggy, 
had allowed us to ftand on during a part of the day, as 
it frequently cleared up; and we perceived and fet 
the northernmoft of the iflands of the Four Brothers, 
and two points of Mareckan Ifland, which we took 
for two diflinét iflands. The fouthernmoft of thefe 
bore Eaft 15° South. We had now advanced only 
A leagues to the N. E. in 3 days, and the fogs hav- 
ing become much thicker and continued without 
intermiffion during the 24th, 25th, and 26th, we 
were obliget to ftand off and on between thefe 
iflands, of which we knew neither the extent nor 
direétion ; not having, as on the coafts of ‘Tartary 
and Oku-Jetio, the refource of founding, in order to 
know how near we were to the land, becaufe here 
we could not find bottom. This fituation, one of 
the moft fatiguing and tirefome of the whole voyage, 
continued till the 29th, when we had a clear interval, 
and perceiving the fummits of mountains in the eaft 
I food on to approach them. The low lands now 
began to appear, and we diftinguifhed the ifland 
of Mareckan, which I confider as the firft of the 
fouthern Kurile iflands, in extent from N. E.toS. W. 
about twelve leagues.. A high hill terminates each 
extremity, and a peak, or rather to judge by its form, 
a volcano, rifes in the middle. As I had an intention 
of failing out from the Kuriles, by the channel which 
I fuppofed to lie to the north of Mareckan ; I fhaped 
my courfe to approach the N. E. point of this ifland. 
I then perceived two others to the E. N. E. but more 
diftant, and appearing to’ leave between them and 
the former, a channel of 4 or 5 leagues. But at 8 
in the evening, the wind came round to the north 
and died away, and there being a great fwell, I was 
obliged to put about, and ftand to the weftward, in 

order 


[1787. 
ting the 
ly where 
ngitude 
y 10887; 
e day, as 
and fet 
Brothers, 
we took 
of thefe 
ced only 
fogs hav- 
without 
26th, we 
en thefe 
xtent nor 
F 'artary 
y order to 
aufe here 
1, one of 
e voyage, 
r interval, 
1 the eaft 
ands now 
the ifland 
rft of the 
. 108. W. 
yates each 
y its form, 
intention 
nel which 
; I fhaped 
his ifland. 
. but more 
them and 
But at 8 
the north 
vell, I was 
eftward, in 
order 


LA 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 05 


order to gain an offing: for the fea was fetting us 
in fhore, and we had not ftruck ground a league 
from the land, with a line of 200 fathoms. Thefe 
northerly winds determined me to fail out by the 
channel, to the fouthward of the ifland of Mareckan, 
and to the northward of the Four Brothers, It had 
appeared wide, and its direction was to the fouth- 
ward, nearly parallel to the channel of Vries, which 
put me out of my courfe. But the winds left me no 
other alternative, and clear days were fo rare, that I 
thought it my duty to take advantage of the only 
one we had experienced for 10 days paft. 

We crowded fail during the night, in order to ar- 
rive at the entrance of this channel, but had very lit- 
tle wind, and the fea was very heavy. When day re- 
turned we fet, bearing S. E. diftant about two Icagues, 
the S. W. point of Mareckan, which I named Cape 
Rollin, from our furgeon-major ; and we were quite 
becalmed, without even the refource of anchoring, 
fhould we be drifted in fhore, for we could not firike 
bottom. Fortunately the current carried us percep- 
tibly into the middle of the channel, and. we ad 
vanced about five leagues to the S.S.E. though 
without wind enough to fteer. We now perccived 
bearing S. E. the Four Brothers ; and as very good 
obfervations of longitude permitted us to determine 
their pofition, as well as that of Cape Rollin, in the 
ifland of Mareckan, we were convinced that the 
width of the channel was about fifteen leagues. The 
night was very fine, the wind fettled at E. N. E. and 
we entered the channel by moon light. I named it 
the Canal de la Bouffole ; and I think it the fineft of 
all the channels which feparate the Kuriles from each 
other. We were very fortunate in feizing this inter- 
val, for the weather was overcaft at midnight, and 
the thickeft fog covered us at day-break, before we 
Were certain of having entirely cleared the channel. 
I continued ftanding to the fouthward in the midft 

of 


ns EEE CE © = era rame —_ = 
. 


| 
t 


imi) 
1 | 
|| | 
A | 
| | 
[| 
Î i 
hl 
(A :: 
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it | 
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Lj |! 
tt LE 
| 
Hl 
2 
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i 
ie 
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‘ 
eR SS EEE 


06 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


of thefe fogs, with the intention of approaching the 
iflands to the northward, with the firft clear inter- 
val, and if poffible to explore them as far as Point 
Lopatka ; but the fogs were more conftant here than 
on the coaft of Tartary. During ten days we had 
only twenty-four hours clear weather, and moft of 
that time it was a dead calm ; fo that we were happy 
ta take advantage of the half of a fine night to get 
out into an open fea. 

At fix in the evening I tacked to the northward 
towards the land, from which I fuppofed we were 
about twelve leagues diftant. The fog ftill conti- 
nued equally thick. ‘Towards midnight the wind 
came round to the weftward, and I fteered to the 
eaftward, waiting for day-light, again to get near the 
coaft. The day appeared without diffipating the fog, 
though the fun however pierced it twice during the 
morning; and extending our horizon for only a 
few minutes:to one or two leagues, we feized the 
opportunity to take the altitude of the fun, in order 
to know the true time, and thence deduce the lon- 
gitude. Thefe obfervations left us in fome incerti- 
tude, becaufe the horizon was not clearly defined. 
They apprized us, however, that we had drifted about 
ten leagues to the S. E. which coincided with the 
refults of the different bearings we had taken the 
preceding evening during the calm. The fog re- 
turned with obftinacy, and was cqually thick the 
next day. I therefore determined, as the feafon 
was .advancing, to abandon my intention of explor- 
ing the northern Kuriles, and to fhape my courfe 
for Kamtfchatka. We had determined the place of 
the fouthernmoft iflands, and thefe were the objects 
of incertitude to geographers. The fituation of Mare- 
ckan being alfo accurately fettled, as well as that 
of Point Lopatka, it feemed impoffible any error of 
importance fhould remain in the direction of the 
iflands between thefe two points. I therefore thought 
it 


[1787. 
aching the 
slear inter- 
r as Point 
t here than 
ays we had 
nd moft of 
were happy 
ight to get 


. northward 
ed we were 
ftill conti- 
t the wind 
red to the 
yet near the 
ing the fog, 
during the 
for only a 
feized the 
n, in order 
ice the lon- 
yme incerti- 
rly defined. 
lrifted about 
d with the 
1 taken the 
The fog re- 
y thick the 
the feafon 
n of explor- 
> my courfe 
the place of 
. the objects 
ion of Mare- 
well as that 
any error of 
ction of the 
fore thought 
it 


1787.] “ROUND THE WOR£LD.: 07 
it improper to facrifice to-an almoft ufelefé refearch 
the health of the fhips’ crews, who began to ftand 
in need of repofe, and whom the continual fogs 
kept in a ftate of moifture, very prejudicial to their 
health, notwithftanding ‘the - precautions we em- 
ployed to counteract it. I .confequently fteered E, 
N.E. and renounced my intention of anchoring off 
one of the Kuriles, in order to obferve the nature 
of the foil, and the manners of the inhabitants. [ 
am confident they are the fame nation as the inhabi- 
tants of Tchoka and Chicha, according to the ac- 
counts of the Ruffians, who have given us a voca- 
bulary of their langrage, exactly fimilar to that we 
formed at Langle Gay; the only difference confift- 
ing in the manner in whieh we have underftood and 
exprefied their pronunciation, which could not ftrike 


} Roffian and French organs of hearing in a manner 
exaclly fimilar. The fouthern iflands too, along 
| which we ranged, wear a horrid afpeét ; and I am 


of opinion the Company’s land, that of the Four Bro- 


: thers, the ifland of Mareckan, &c. are uninhabit- 


able. Barren rocks, deftitute of verdure and of ve- 
getable foil, can but ferve as a refuge to the fhip- 
wrecked navigator, who could then do nothing bet- 
ter than to get immediately to the. iflands of Chi- 
cha, or of Tchoka, by traverfing the channels that 
feparate them, 

Till the 5th of September the fog continued 


à equally obftinate as before ; but as we had a-good 


offing we crowded fail in the midft of the obicu- 
rity; and at fix in the evening of the fame day 
the weather clearing up, permitted us to fee the 


 coaft of Kamtfchatka. It extended from the W. by 


N. to N. by W. and the mountains which we fet in 
that point of the compafs, were precifely thofe of 
the volcano, lying to the northward of St. Peter 
and St. Paul, from which, however, we, were more 
than thirty-five leagues, our latitude being 51° 30’, 

Vox. II. H | All 


ÿ8 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE fi 787. 


All this coaft wore the moft hideous appearance. 
The eye was pained with viewing it, and fhunned 
with horror thefe terrible and enormous mafles 
of rock, which the fnow yet covered at'the ‘bepin- 
ning of September, and which feemed never to have 
been’ bleffed with vegetation. 

We now fhaped our courfe to the northward, 
and during the night the wind came round to'the 
N.W, The next day the weather continued clear. 
We had then neared the land, which afforded the 
eye a very agreeable object, when viewed at a fmall 
diftance ; and the bafes of thefe enormous moun- 
tains, whofe fummits are crowned with eternal 
frofts, were carpeted with the moft beautiful ver- 
dure, from the midft of which various tufts of trees 
‘fpread their luxuriant branches. | 

In the night of the 6th we got fight of the en- 
‘trance of the bay of Awatfcha, or St. Peter and St. 
‘Paul. The light-houfe which the Ruffians have 
ereéted on the eafternmoft point of this bay, was 
‘not lighted during the night. The governor told 
us the next day he had made ineffectual exertions 
‘to keep up the fire, for the wind conflantly extin- 
~guifhed the light, which was only fheltered by four 
deal planks, badly put together. The reader will 
‘eafily perceive that this public work, fo worthy of 
Kamtfchatka, has not been modelled on any ancient 
‘pharos of ancient Greece, of Egypt, orof Italy. Yet 
we muft go back to the heroic ages that preceded 
the fiege of Troy, to find fo warm an hofpitality as 
is cherithed in this barbarous country. Weentercd 
the bay at ten o’clock at night, and the governor 
came five leagues to meet us im his canoe, although | 
the care of the light-houfe had employed him all 8 
the night ; for he took on himfelf the fault of not 
‘being able to ke: p the fire a light. ‘He told us we 
had long been announced, and that he believed the 
govefnor general of the peninfula, who had been 

expected § 


NL 


BSS TATE 


SET ETES 


SS SETI 


(1787. À L 21787] ROUND THE WORLD. 99 
expected during five days at St. Peter and St. Paul, 


eae D | 
ep bie ee letters for us. 
jus mafles Ve had fcarcely anchored before we faw : | 
the ‘begin- | vicar of EEE with his wife and ay th got 
ver to have | = dren, come on board. From that moment we fore- 
faw that we might perhaps behold fome of the per; 
northward, fonages who acted a part in the laft voya e of 
und to'the fa Captain Cook, and that it would be eafy to " 
nued clear. 15 duce them again upon the fcene. SEA AE 
fforded the ls . | 


1 at a fmall 
ous moun- 
ith eternal 
autiful ver- 


ufts of trees | CHAP. XXI 

of the en- DA «SUPPLEMENT TO THE PRECEDING CHAPTERS—A 

eter and St. | : DITIONAL DETAILS RELATIVE TO THE EA vow 
uffians have DU |§$ COAST OF TARTARY—DOUBTS the spin 
is bay, was PRETENDED PEARL FISHERY, SPOKEN OF fr et 
vernor told | JESUITS—PHYSICAL aera sets! Bale de se 3 
nab exertions oe ISLANDERS OF THAT COUNTRY AND rata pt a 
lantly extin- | TANTS: OR THR ae eae INHABI- 
ered by four ed COUNTRY—IMPOSSIBILITY OF CARRYING ao à 
| reader will | PROFITABLE BRANCH OF COMMERCE TH het 
fo worthy of | 7% CABULARY OF THE INHABITANTS OF es aa 


) any ancient Lo OF TCHOKA, OR 
Italy. Yet ‘iMG RMA 
hat » preceded 
hofpitality as 
Weentered 
the governor 
hoe, although 
eyed him all 
| fault of not 
fe told us we 
e believed the 
‘ho had been 
expected 


QYUR navigation from Manilla to the i 

ille he ifland of 
D eri was only new to ourfelves; for the 
RTE lave long carried on a trade with Japan, and 
ries OF er two fhips every year to Nangafacki: but 
Fan pe phase they direét their courfe by the 
An a ormofa, or pafs to the eaftward of that 
AE ee been affured that their captains take 

oe L efore their departure from Batavia to kee 
fe par rari of their voyage fecret, and to fuffer ue 
copies of the manufcript charts delivered them to be 
H 2 . taken. 


100 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


taken. Does not this precaution fhew they are of 
opinion other Europeans would be received at Ja- 
“pan equally with themfelves, and might trade there 
‘m competition with them? Or is it not poffible, 
‘on the other hand, that this oath is merely an an- 
cient cuftom they have neglected to reform ? 

Be this as it may, I am of opinion the time 
‘is at length arrived when the veil of myftery will be 
removed from particular navigations. That art has 
made too important a progrefs to be retarded by 
fuch obftacles. Geography will now ceafe to be an 
abftrufe fcience, becaufe the fpirit of difpute and 
criticifm will become ufelefs, when every important 
point of land fhall be laid down by accurate ob- 
fervations of latitude and longitude. The period is 
rapidly approaching when every nation will know 
the extent of the feas that furround them, and of 
the land they inhabit. Although the feas of Tar- 
tary that we explored, are the limits of the continent 
moit anciently inhabited, thefe were equally un- 
known by the Europeans with the ftraits of Anian, or 
the archipelago of St. Lazarus. Even the Jefuits, 
who have made us fo well acquainted with China, 
have not afforded us any information on the eaftern 
part of this vaft empire; and thofe who have tra- 
velled into Tartary, were not permitted to approach 
the fea coaft. This precaution, and the prohibi- 
tion by the Emperor of Japan, in all ages, to navigate 
to the northward of bis dominions, were motives to 
believe this part of Afia concealed immenfe riches, 
which the policy of Japan and China dreaded making 
known to the Europcans. The details of the pre- 
ceding chapters muft have convinced the reader, 
that the eaftern coaft of Tartary is ftill lefs inhabited 
than that to the northward of America. Separated 
in a manner by the river Segalien from the conti- 
nent, to whofe direction its courfe is almoft parallel, 
as well as by inacceflible mountains, it has never been 

\ . vifited 


PRE 


- 
Fe 
es DER 


[1787. 
ey are of 
ed at Ja- 
rade there 
t poffible, 


the time 
ery will be 
hat art has 
etarded by 
e to be an 
ifpute and 
important 
curate ob- 
e period is 
will know 
em, and of 
bas of Tar- 
e continent 
qually un- 
of Anian, or 
the Jefuits, 
with China, 
the eaftern 
o have tra- 
to approach 
he | prohibi- 
, to navigate 
: motives to 
enfe riches, 
ded making 
of the pre- 
the reader, 
fs inhabited 
* Separated 
_ the conti- 
1oft parallel, 
; never been 
. vifited 


i 


101 
vifited by the Chinefe and Japanefe, but near its li- 


1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 
mits towards the fea. The very few inhabitants we 
mect with, derive their origin from the nations who 
inhabit the north of Afia, and have no analogy, in 
this refpect, with the Mantchou Tartars, and ftill 
lefs with the iflanders of Oku-Jeffo or the Kuriles. 
It is eafy to perceive that fuch a country, fituated be- 
twecn the fea, and mountains lefs than twenty leagues 
from the coaft, cannot be furnifhed with any con- 
fiderable river. The Segalien, which is beyond it, 
receives all the ftreams which run to the weftward. 
Thofe to the eaftward are divided into rivulets in all 
the valleys; and no country is better watered, nor 
difplays a more delightful frefhnefs in fummer. I efti- 
mate at lefs than 3000, the total of the inhabitants 
compofng the little colonies of this country, from the 
point where we.firft made land, in 42°, to the bay of 
Caftrics, near the mouth of the Segalien. ‘This river, 
which the Mantchou Tartars defcended in canoes to 
© 
the fea, from whence they fpread over the coaft, 
both to the northward and fouthward, forms the 
only avenue to their internal commerce. It is now 
indeed very much frequented; and there is not 
perhaps a fingle individual on this part of the con- 
tinent, and on the iflands of Jeffo and Oku-Jefio, 
who is not gs well acquainted with the Segalien as 
the inhabitants of Egypt and Judea were with the 
Nile. But their commerce is carried on only eight 
pr ten days’ fail up that river ; and it appears that its 
mouth, like that of the Ganges, prefents an unin- 
habited country ; a circumftance to be attributed to 
the fterility of a foil, almoft inundated, and covered 
with fWwamps and marfhes, where the flocks of cat- 
tle, which form the principal riches of the Tartars, 
cannot find a falubrious fubfifience. I have ob- . 
ferved, that the Jefuits declare there is a pearl- 
fifhery on this coaft. In fat, we found oyfters 


containing pearls; but I acknowledge I know not 
where 


141907 


102 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


where to place this fifhery, unlefs it be on the con- 
fines of Corea, or at the mouth of the Segalien. 
In that cafe, I imagine it cannot, be comparable to 
thofe of Baffora, or the Gulf of Monaar, which em- 
ploy five or fix thoufand hands. It is poffible, how- 
ever, that fome families of fifhermen may unite 
there, in order to fifh for pearls, which they may 
afterwards barter for nankeens and other objects. of 
commerce, from China, of fmall value. I tried the 
experiment, of fhewing the Bitchys, and the iflan- 
ders of Oku-Jeflo fome falfe pearls, perfectly. well 
imitated, yet did not perceive they were more 

ftruck with them than with common beads, ~ 
We fhould form a very erroneous idea of this 
country, if we fuppofed we might arrive there, by the 
rivers that flow from the interior of the country, or 
that the Chinefe carry on any trade there. We 
ranged clofe along the coaft, and frequently within 
gun fhot, without perceiving any village. We faw 
in the bay of Ternai bears, hinds, and fawns feed- 
ing like domeftic animals, and raifing their heads 
to view our fhips with aftonifhment as we arrived in 
the bay. A tomb and fome burnt trees, were the 
omy objects that authorifed a fuppofition of other 
johabitants. The bay of Suffren was no lefs a defart : 
and twenty-five or thirty individuals feemed to form 
the whole population of the bay of Caftries, though it 

might cafily have fupported 10,000 perfons. ° 
Our. naturalifts found on the coaft, and at the 
mouths of the rivers, neither pyrites nor pebbles con- 
taining ore, nor gold duft diffeminated among the 
fand, in fhort nothing fhewing the foil to contain 
any metal. However, we found flints, chalcedonies, 
fpars, zeolites, porphyry, and a variety of volcanic fub- 
{tances, which contained very little fhorl, but a great 
quantity of the fine chryftallizations, and incruft- 
ations, found in the lava of extinguithed volcanoes. 
The coaft of Oku-Jeflo which forms the eafiern 
fhore 


(1787. 
the con- 
Segalien. 
arable to 
hich em- 
ble, how. 
ay unite 
they. may 
objects. of 
tried the 
the iflan- 
ectly. well 


ere more 


a of this 
re, by the 
ountry, or 
ere. We 
tly within 
We faw 
awns feed- 
heir heads 
arrived in 
were the 
n of other 
sa defart ; 
ed to form 
» though it 
1s. 
nd at the 
bbles con- 
mong the 
to contain 
alecdonies, 
lcanic fub- 
ut a great 
d incruft- 
volcanoes. 
he eafiern 
{hore 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 103. 


fhore of the channel of Tartary, is ftill more fertile 
in plants than that of the continent oppofite to it, 
and vegetation feemed to be there enlivened with fu. 
perior energy. Yet the inhabitants do not on that 
account lay a heavier tax on the fertility of the foil, . 
and the animal kingdom almoft exclufively furnifhes 
them with {ubfiftence.- For I do not confider a few 
cloves of faranna and garlic, which the women dry 
and gather on the fkirts of the woods, of much im- 
portance. I am even inclined to believe, that hunt- 
ing is rather their amufement than their occupation, 
for fifh either frefh or dried, like corn in France, is 
with them the bafis of their nourifhment. Two dogs, 
given me at the bay of Caftrics, at firft refufed to 
eat meat, but fell on fifth with a voracity equalled 
only by that of wolves that have been long famifhed : 
neceflity alone accuftomed them by degrees to a dif- 
ferent kind of food. 

The bear and elk fkins with which thefe people 
were clothed, left no doubt that in winter they hunt 
thefe animals. But the inhabitants of the continent 
are, in general too fecble to venture to engage them 
with arrows. On the contrary they informed us by 
figns, that they fet fnares for them by fixing a bait to 
a bow powerfully drawn. The animal while devour- 
ing the bait, lets off a trigger, which fhoots an arrow 
aimed at the bait. But the iflanders, more generous, 
becaufe more robuft, fcemed proud of their wounds, 
and delight in exhibiting them, giving us to un- 
derftand they had combated bears with flakes, after 
having wounded them with arrows. 

Their canoes are formed of an excavated fir tree, 
and hold feven or cight perfons. They manage them 
with very light ours, and in thefe flight veflels, un- 
dertake voyages of two leagues from the fouthern ex- 
tremity of Oku-Jefi and Jetlo in 429, as far as the 
river Segalien in 55%. But they never go more than 

a piftol-fhot from fhore, except when they crofs from 
H 4 one 


104 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE: [1787. 


one ifland to another, and for this they wait for a 
dead calm. The wind, which always follows the di- 
rection of the channel, never raifes a furf upon the 
fhore ; fo that it is as eafy to land in all the creeks, as 
in the beft fheltered road-fleads. Every night they 
run their canoes aground on the beach, and carry with 
them birch bark, which with fome fir branches, enables 
them to conftruct a cabin in an inftant, Rivulets filled 
with falmon fecure them a fubfiftence, and each own- 
er of a canoe has his kettle, his trivet, his flint-ficel, 
and tinder bark, and wherever they land their hut is 
erected, their fifh harpooned, and their meal pre- 
pared within an hour of their landing. This kind of 
navigation is as fafe as that of the canal of Languedoc. 
They arrive within a ftated number of days, and ftop 
every evening in the fame creeks, or on the banks of 
the fame rivulets. They marked upon our chart the 
number of their refting places between Cape Cril- 
Jon and the river Segalien, whence it appears, they 
make 11 leagues a day; and though their canoes 
are furnifhed with neither mafts nor yards, they 
fometimes fix a fhirt on two oars placed acrofs, and 
thus by failing get on with lefs fatigue than by row- 
ing. Near their villages are fmall canoes for only 
one or two perfons, which though never ufed in 
long voyages, are employed in entering the rivulets 
to filh. They are fo extremely light, that when the 
depth of water is but 12 or 15 inches, they ufe fmall 
{ticks inftead of poles, and keeping theit feats, puth 
againft the bottom, fo as to pafs on with very great 
rapidity. When the depth is greater, they manage 
them with paddles. The manners and cufioms of 
thefe two people differ by very flight fhades. They 
purfue the fame mode of life, ufc the fame naval and 
domeftic architecture, and pay the fame refpect to old 
age. But in this parallel, I am perfuaded the Tar- 
t rs excel in morality, and the iflanders in indufiry, 
and particularly in the firmnefs ‘and other virtue; 

arifing 


[1787. 
ait for a 
vs the di- 
upon the 
creeks, as 
ight they 
carry With 
2g, enables 
alets filled 
each own- 
flint-ficel, 
heir hut is 
meal pre- 
ais kind of 
anguedoc. 
s, and ftop 
e banks of 
- chart the 
Cape Cril- 
ears, they 
lei Canoes 
ards, they 
icrofs, and 
in by row- 
es for only 
er ufed in 
he rivulets 
t when the 
y ufe fmall 
feats, puth 
very great 
ey manage 
cuftoms of 
les. They 
e naval and 
fpect to old 
hd the T'ar- 
in indufiry, 
her virtucs 
arifing 


} 187. | ROUND THE WORLD. : 105 


arifing from a confcioufnefs of their own ftrength, 
We thought we obferved in Oku-Jeflo, a diftinétion 
of rank which does not exift in Tartary. In each 
canoe was a man with whom the others did not af. 
fociate ; who did not eat with them, and appeared 
in a ftate of abfolute fubjéétion. We fufpecied he 
might even be a flave; but although this is mere 
conjecture, he was certainly of very inferior rank. 

The Jeflonefe and Oku-Jetionefe  poffefs an article 
of commerce, of which the Bitchys and Orotchys are 
totally deftitute. This is whale oil; that animal 
abounding on the eaftern coaft of their iflands, where 
we perceived as great a number as in the ftrait of Le 
Maire, though we did not fee one in the narrow fea 
of Tartary. The greater facility of communication 
of the Iflanders with Japan, gives the furniture of 
their huts an air of opulence, not vifible on the con- 
tinent, except in their tombs ; for which the Tartars 
referve all their riches. We faw no monument of 
that nature, thus decorated among the Segalians. 
But we obferved there, as in the bay of Caftries 
images fufpended from the roofs of their huts, and 
the matter of one of the canoes in the bay of Crillon 
to whom I gave a bottle of brandy, threw a few drops 
into the fea, before he fet off, giving us to under- 
fiand, this ljbation was an offering to the Supreme 
Being. But the fky appears to be the vault of his 
temple, and the heads of families his minifters, 

It will be readily concluded, from this account, 
that no commercial motive can hold out an induce- 
ment for Europeans to frequent thefe feas. A little 
whale oil, and dried or fmoked fifh, are very trifling 
articles of exportation, to cover the expences of fo 
long a voyage. I may even obferve, as a general 
maxim, that an extenfive commerce can only be 
gartied on with a great nation ; and were theie ar- 
ticles objects of importance, a curgo of 300 tons 

’ could 


106 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


could not be completed on all thefe various coafis, 
which extend more than 1000 leagues. Although 
the dried falmon_of the bay of Caftries appeared of a 
good quality, and it was very eafy to buy it, I con- 
fefs, I felt a fcruple that withheld me, left thefe 
poor people fhould be felling their winter provifion, 
and perifh for want when that feafon arrived. 

We did not obferve any fea otters, and though we 
fhewed the inhabitants famples of ours, thefe furs 
feemed totally unknown to them; and they did not 
appear to place a higher value on them, than on the 
feals fkins of which they make their boots. Ap- 
parently that amphibious animal is only found on the. 
eaftern coaft of the northern Kuriles, which fhews 
that its true country is to the eaftward of Afia, to- 
wards the coaft of America, where as I have already 
faid, they are found in great quantities, from Oono- 
Jlafhka Point to San Diego, on the weftern coaft of 
California. In reading the yarious accounts, which 
have given birth to fo many falfe ideas of the im- 
menfe country we have lately reconnoitred, we find 
many truths difperfed among them, which it is very 
difficult to develope. Father des Anges’ was cer- 
tainly acquainted with thefe nations, and his defcrip- 
tion of the country is accurate: but fituated at the 
fouthern extremity of Jefo, oppofite ta Japan, he 
could neither conceive, nor venture to fuppofe fa 
great an extent of country ; the ftrait of Tefloy of 
which he fpeaks, and which, as the Iflanders informed 
him., was obftruéted by fea-weeds, is fo’ near the 
continent, as to fee with the naked eye a horfe feed- 
. ing on the other fide, and is no other than the top of 
the gulph we failed into, from whence we faw Point 
Boutin, on the ifland of Oku-Jeflo, ftretching out 
towards the continent, and terminating in the fea 
like a fand bank a toife or two high. ‘The accounts 
of Kempfer, and the letters of. Father Gaubil, alfa 
contain 


[1787. 
is coafis, 
Although 
ared of a 
it, I con- 
left thefe 
provifion, 
1. 
hough we 
thefe furs 
y did not 
an on the 
ots. Ap- 
ind on the. 
ich fhews 
f Afia, to- 
ve already 
om Oono- 
n coaft of 
nts, which 
of the im- 
d, we find 
1 it is very 
s' was cer- 
is defcrip- 
ated at the 
Japan, he 
fuppofe fa 
f Tefloy of 
rs informed 
fo’ near the 
horfe feed- 
1 the top of 
e faw Point 
stching out 
- in the fea 
he accounts 
Gaubil, alfa 
contain 


1787. | ROUND THE WORLD, 107 


contain fome truths *; but both thefe writers have 
related whatever the Japanefe or Tartars told them, 
and they had only converfed with men too ignorant 
to be relied on for their accuracy. In fhort, the Ruf- 
fians denied the exifience of thefe two iflands, though 
more confiderable than thofe of Britain. They con- 
founded them with the Kuriles, and did not fuppofe 
there was any intermediate land between them and 


the continent of Afia-+-. On this fuppofition, the 
feas 

*{t is for the Ruffians” (favs Father Gaubil) to inform us, 
‘‘ whether large fhips can paf through the ftrait which feparates 
“ Jefo from Tartary.” « That enlightened Jefuit did not torefee, 
that this problem would be folved by the navigators of France.— 
Frexch Editor. 

+ Although it cannot be fuppofed it will ever be attempted to 
rob the navigators of France of the honour of this important dif- 
covery of the land of Jeffo, or Chicha Ifland, lying to the north- 
ward of Japan, 1 will point out in this place the ignorance of the 
Ruffians, relative to the exiftence of that ifland. I fhall draw a proof 
of it from the tranflation ofa paffage in the Ruffian account of 
Kracheninikoff, at his return from a voyage to Kamtfchatka, page 
34 of Vol. I. 4to. 

« The Kamtfchadales were in poffeffion of iron utenfils befure 
& the arrival of the Ruffians in that peninfula, being furnifhed with 
them by means of the Japanefe, who made voyages to the Kurile 
4 [flands, though they rarely ftretched fo far as the river Bolchaia- 
“ Reka.” He adds, in fupport of this affertion, that ‘ the Kamts- 
“ chadales give the name of Chicha-Mann to the Japanefe, be- 
* caufe needles are called chif-h in this language, and the Japanefe 
“ were tie firft who taught them the ufe of needles made of iron 
“ and fteel.” 

Had the Ruffian author, like La Péroufe, had an opportunity of 
vifiting the iflands lving to the northward of Japan, he would have 
found one bearing the name of Chicha ; amd in lieu of purfuing fo 
ridiculous an etymology, would have confined himfelf to the natural 
origin of that name; he would have added the fyllable mann, ufed 
in the dialect of feveral nations, to perfonify the name of their 
country, to Chicha, fo as to fignily a man of Chicha, not a needle- 
man. 

‘Va? inference from this obfervation is, that the Ruffians having 
Jong inhabited Kamtfchatka, and thus being very near neighbours 
to tiefe iflands, have no clear idea of the exiftence of the itlands 
lying to the northward of Japan, though they frequently made voy- 
-ges to the Ruriles. This is the lefs to be doubted, asthe Ruffians, 
decording to thefe data, take thofe Manders for Japanefe. 

oa ee lam 


108 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787, 
feas of Japan and of Corea were open to their fhips 
from Okhofkt ; but this fuppofition would annihi- 
late the authenticity of the voyage of the Dutch in 
1634, and we may venture to aflert, that the nayi- 
gation of Captain Vries.is the moft accurate that 
could have been practifed, at a time when the method 
of taking obfervations was extremely defective. It 
appears, that the Dutch endeavoured to compenfute 
this difadvantage, by the moft minute attention to 
their reckoning, and the accuracy of their bearings, 
If the firait we difcovered, efcaped their obfervation, 
feamen who are acquainted with foggy feas, will 
fcarcely be furprifed. The latitude and longitude of 
this ftrait were determined in our voyage with fo 
much precifion, that there no longer remains any diffi- 
culty in penetrating, by this channel, into the feas of 
Corea, Langle Peak, which rifes more than 1200 
toifes above the level of the fea, and is vifible in clear 
weather at a difiance of 40 leagues, is an excellent 
Jand-mark for the ‘fouthern coaft of this channel, 
which it is more convenient to run along, than that of 
the north, the currents being more moderate. The 
exact knowledge of the geqgraphy of this part of the 
continent, which the fatigues of our expedition will 
procure to France, and other European countries, 
may become more immediately ufeful to the Ruf- 
fians, who may perhaps one day poflefs an important 
navigation to Okhotik, and will caufe the arts and 
fcieuces of Europe to flourifh in thefe countries, now 
inhabited by wandering Tartar hords, but more par- 
ticularly appropriated to bears and other animals of 
the forefts. 

I fhall not attempt to explain how Jeffo, Oku- 
Jeflo, and all the Kuriles, have become peopled by a 
different race of men from that of the Japanefe, Chi- 


I am indebted for the tranflation of the above paffage from Kra- 
cheninikoff, to Leffeps, the Ruffian interpreter, who accompanied 
La Péroufe on this voyage.—Zrerch Editor. 


nefe, 


[1787, 
their fhips 
id annihi- 
: Dutch in 
t the navi- 
urate that 
he method 
ective. It 
ompenfate 
ittention to 
ir bearings, 
bbfervation, 
feas, will 
ngitude of 
ge with fo 
s any diffi- 
the feas of 
than 1200 
ble in clear 
n excellent 
is channel, 
than that of 
rate. The 
part of the 
sdition will 
1 countries, 
o the Ruf- 
1 important 
1e arts and 
ntries, now 
t more par- 

animals of 


Jeflo, Oku- 
eopled by a 
anefe, Chi- 


age from Kra- 
o accompanied 


nefe, 


1787.] - ROUND THE WORLD. 109 


nefe, Kamtfchadales, and Tartars, from whom the 
Oku-Jeflonefe are only feparated to the northward, 
by a narrow and fhallow channel. As a traveller, I 
relate facts, and point out diftinélions, Icaving it to 
others to reduce them to a fyftem. Although I did 
not land in the Kuriles, I am certain, from the ac- 
counts of the Ruffians, and the identity of the lan- 
guage of the Kuriles, with that of the vocabulary at 
the end of the prefent chapter, that the inhabitants 
of thefe iflands, and thofe of Jeflo,and Oku-Jeffo, have 
a common origin. Though their manners and mode 
of life differ very little from thofe of the continent ; 


nature has ftamped fo marked a phyfical difference 


between thefe two nations, as to conftitute a more 
inconteftible proof, than any medal or monument 
whatever, that thefe iflands were not originally 
peopled from this part of the continent, and that 
their inhabitants are a colony of men, perhaps even 
firangers to Afia. Although Oku-Jeffo lies 150 
leagues to the weftward of the Kuriles, and it is im- 
pofñible to crofs in fuch flight veffels as their fir ca- 
noes, they may, however, eafily communicate to- 
gether, becaufe all thefe iflands, feparated from cach 
other by channels of various widths, form a kind of 
circle; and none of their channels prefents an extent 
of 15 leagues. Thus it would be poflible to go:in 
canoes from Kamtfchatka to the mouth of the river 
Segalien, by purfuing the chain of the iflands as far 
as that of Mareckan, and pafling from this laft to the 
ifland of Four Brothers, Company’s Land, Staten 


 Ifland, Jeflo, and Oku-Jeffo, and thus to arrive at the 


limits of Ruffian Tartary. But the names of Jefño, 
and Oku-Jefld, if pronounced among thefe Iflanders, 
would be unmeaning empty founds, and are appa- 
rently Japanefe words. - Neither the Vartars, nor the 
pretended Jeffonefe, and Oku-Jeflbnefe have any 
knowledge of them. The latter call their own 
ifland Tchoka, and the former Chicha. This con- 

: | fufion 


do LA PÉROUSES VOFAGE, fiver. 
fafion of names js very injurious to the progrefs of 
navigation ; it is, at leaft, a totally ufelefs tax upon the 
memory. I am of opinion, that when the true name 
of a country is once known, it ought to be fcrupu 
loufly adhered to, or ia.defaylt of that; the names 
employed by the moft ancient navigators. This 
plan, from which I have never deviated; has been 
faithfully purfued in the charts we have conftructed 
during our voyage, and if it has ever been, departed 
from, it has arifen merely from not being acquainted 
with the faéts, not from the ridiculous vain-glory of 
fabricating new names. 


VOCABULARY OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND 
QF TCHOKA, FORMED AT LANGLE BAY. 


Some of the words of the language of Tchoka are 
pronounced in the throat, but their pronunciation 
muft be foft, refembling that of perfons who {peak 
rather thick. It.is here exprefled by e#. The gs at 
the beginning of fome words, is ufed to exprefs a 
kind of whiftling, which muft be founded before ar. 
ticulating the fyllables that follow *. 


. Names of the principal parts of the human body. — 


eye, the eyes. 

the eyebrows. 
Quechetau the forehead. 
Etou 


Téhé 
: Qs-chara 


* In all thefe vocabularies the French fpelling is adhered to, and 
confequently the French-pronunciation.—Frene> Editor, 
Chapa 


fiver. 
FO efs of 
x upon the 


20 ponfirudted 
n. departed 
acquainted 
ain-glory of 


CHÉ ISLAND 
BAY. | 
Tchoka are 
onunciation 
s who fpeak 
The gs at 
o exprefs a 
A before ar- 


an body: 


adhered to, and 
ditor, 
Chapa 


1787. | ROUND THE WORLD. 11r 


gpass......s. the hair. 
Gr ie hrs the nape of the neck, 
Saitourou ‘.....: the back. 
Lg .... the fhoulder. 

Taë&s fonk ......the arm. 

Tay ET Ab PER site the fore part of the arm. 
Tay-ha ..,.....thewriit. 
Tay pompé . the hand, and thefingers in general 


Tchouai pompé. . . . the thumb. 
Khouaime pompé… . the fore finger. 
Kmoche kia pompe the middle finger. 


Oufla pompé. + the fourth finger. 

Para pompé. ..... the little finger. 

Tchame ........ the fore and upper part of the 
breaft. 

Toho .......... the nipples. 

Fone .ccceceves the belly. 

Tsigd...ecccees the male genitals. 

Chipouille .. +... the female genitals. 

Afforoka........ the buttocks. 

Anbe ce RE buis the thighs. 


Aouchi ........ the knees. 
TOO revues the ham, or bend of the knee. 


AiMGifi ........ the legs. 

Oatchika....,... the calf of the leg. 
Acouponé ...... the ankles. 

Paraouré ...... the upper part of the foot. 
Otocoukaïon .:..the heels. 

Ouraipo ........ the fole of the foot. 


Kaima pompéam . . the great toe. 

Taffou pompéam .. the fecond toe. 

Taffou ha pompéam the middle toe. 

Taffouam ..,... the fourth and the little toe. 


Names Cd various objects. 


TOWRA Se ie, name of the great ifland they in- 
habit. 


Tanina 


EE 


112 ! UA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787: 
Tanina ........ another name. for the fame; but 
À the majority call it Tchoka. 

Chicha ... . name of an ifland or people the 
point out to the. fouthward of 
that.of Tchoka. 

Mantcheous:..... nations of: Tartary, near the river 

. Amur or Segalien, and, the 

ifland of Tchoka. . According 
to the Iflanders, who pointed 
out thefe people as fituated to 
the north-weft, fhips may. pafs 
through the channel that dis 
vides: them: 


TFehoixa.... the fea: 

Kaiani or Kahani. hip, veftel: 
Hocatoürou...... canoe. 

acte. ls oie eine thole of a canoc. 
Oukannefi ...... oars, or paddles.. 


a fmall fquare veflel of basé 
-birch, and furnifhed with a 
handle. It is ufed for drinking, 
and for baling water out of 
canoes. 
. a kind of wooden fhove] for baling 
__ water out of canoes., 
Turatte ........a very long and ftrong leather 
ftrap, fix or eight lines broad, 
ufed principally for making ca- 


Koch-Kotim... 


Ouacietatei bak 


noes faft. 
Soïtta..........thwart of a canoe. 
Moncara........ iron hatchet. M * 
Moses a large damafcened iron lance, M 
Couboee: “Nr dé a bow. 
Hah ci vegans common arrows, tipped with iron, 


fhaped like a ferpent’s tongue, 
fome barbed, others plain. M 


* The letter M. is annexed to the articles furnifhed by the Mant- 
chou Tartars, with whom they traffic, 
at Taffehet 


Ss pwc 3 


[4 


[1787: 
.fame; but 
‘choka. 
eople they 
ithward of 


r the river 

and, the 
According 
hé pointed 
fituated to 
s may. pafs 
ol that dix 


{ 
of beech 
od. with a 
r drinking, 
er out of 


] for baling 
n g leather 


ines. broad, 
making ca- 


à lance, M 
| with iron, 


it’s tongue, 


plain. M 


Taffehet 


| by the Mant- 


ROUND THE WORLD. _ 113 
Bus iat . forked arrows with two branches 
Tafihe : tipped alfo with iron. M 
Etanto vsedseeee wooden arrows with knobs, 
| Tuffiro .........a large cutlafs. M 


fmall knife in a fheath, fufpended 


Mathr ainitfi and to the leather girdle which keeps 
Makiri ...+- their upper garment croficd. M 

Matfirés ss their name for our knives with 

eI fheaths. 

Hakame ........ large ring of iron, lead, wood, or 
feacow’s tooth, an inftrument . 
forced on to the thumb of the 
left hand. M 

Kaine.......... fewing needle. 

Tchikotampé . our cravats or handkerchiefs, 


B Achka.. +0100 a hat or bonnet. 

D Tobéka.........feacalf’s fkin, in the form of a 
| long loofe great coat. 

OR A-*touffa....... a loofe great coat woven with fine 
| birch bark, prepared with great 

art 


Séturvus. ....... a large loofe great coat or furtout 
| of dog’s fkin. 

| Tetarape. s...... a kind of fhirt of coarfe ftuff, and 
adorned with a border of blue 
‘ nankeen round the bottom and 


neck. 
Otoumouchi...... fmall round brafs waiftcoat but- 
tons. M 
OCA ss ere leather ftockings or bufkins, ftitch- 
ed to their fhoes, 
| Téhirau ........ fhoes of the Chinefe fhape, ter- 
minating in a point very muth 
turned up. 
| Mirauhau...... . a fmall leather bag with four twift- 


ed horns, ufed as a pocket, and 
. fufpended to their leather girdle. 
I Tcharompé 


f14 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
Tcharompé...... ear-rings, generally confifting of 
’ feven or eight blue beads. M 
Tama..,.....,.. blue beads loofe; all the natives 
have a decided tafte and prefer. 
! ence for this colour. à 
Hitrachtchinam.. . @ large firong mat on which they | 
fit and fleep. 
Achkakaroupé..... fall umbrella or fhadein the fhape 
of.a fan, ufed to defend the eyes 
of old people from the fun. 
Hounechi fire. 
Tamout ........ 


Taipo 


' Nintou ...« a buckét to draw water, made of à 


birch bark, in the fame fhape as 
ours, with its handle. 
Ouachka........ freth water. 
Chichepo........fea-water. 
“Abtka....…...... fmall cord. 
Sorompé large woodén fpoons. 
Chouhou copper kettle, M. 
Niffÿ...........arodor pole. . ~ 
' Pouhau.........hut or houfe. 
Nioupouri ....... the houfes or the village. | | 
Oho. vi vi, 2 0 the plain where the village ftands LS 
ON . the river running along the fame 
plain. — 
-Touhot .. the fun. 
Hourara | 
‘Hourara haine .. 
Tébaira 


Tébarrouha ..:... the winter or fnowy feafon. 
Chouman. .; ftone, the generic term. ‘À 
N ...: trunk of a tree, and-wood in ¢e- § 

néral. > \ 


Qs-fieheché . zit deal plank.- 


1 whe 


[1787. 
mfifting of 
beads. M 
the natives 
and prefer- 


which ‘they | 


in the fhape 
end the eyes 
he fun. 


er, made of D 


me fhape as 
8. 


Agee. . a 
illage flands, 


ng the fame 


feafon. 
m. 
W 


T 0 che 


‘ood in ge & 


1787,] 


Toché .verecrvere 


Otoroutchina 
Thboko. 
Mahouni 
Taruho 


Mahatfi 


Pech koutou | 


fi» 
Toukochich 


ROUND THE WORLD. 115 

. unworked bark of the birch, in 

._ large pieces. 
mofs, plant. | 


.» + herbage in general, or meadows, 


fmallage, or wild celery. 

the wild rofe-tree. 

the rofe-tree bloffoms, commonly - 
called dog-rofe. © 

a kind of tulip. © 

angelica plant. 


. a bird in general, or the finging of 


birds. 
a bird’s feather. » 
the jack-daw, a fpecies of crow. 
fmall common fwallow. 
à gull, a web-footed bird, frequent- 
ing the fea fhore. 
a common fly with two wings, or 
dipteron. ; 
large common kimà cockle. 
large mother-of-pearl oyfter. 
harp-fith. : 


Emo, enn .. fith in general, or particular name 


Chaubotn 


He and hi 
Hya 
H ouaku ° 


of a fpecies of barbel. 
a ipecies of carp, or fifh of the ca 
’ kind. | 
a fifh-bone, or back-bone, which 
they broil and prefervein heaps. 
milt, eggs and air bladder of fith, 
which they alfo preferve. 


Common words. 


No. 
No, that cannot be; I cannot ; I 
will not. © 


I 2 Ta-fà 


116 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787 

Tafa ......:... Who? what ? what is it? an inter. 
| rogative pronoun. 

Tap, or tapé..... this, that, this here, that there; a 
| demonftrative pronoun. 


Coukaha ..:..... come hither. ‘2 
Ajbé........... eating (the action of.) # 
buha....:..... to drink. k 
Mouaro ....:...tolie down, or to fnores ;À 
Etaro. .........t0o fleep. À 
Numbers. 4 
Tohind o 6 0issci berne ee one, “ 
bb sinseéte Bek pales ARE D two 1 
FORD AMEN PR RENTE RAR AN three. a 
DC BAP a ET PT AN EE PER four. 4 
AONE 05 66: sinsiote ape Peas eh oe five a 
FAME isis’ ocdyore’ à 8e virer oo. 0,059 fix a 
Araouampé ..........::.:.. fevens 4 
Toubi fchampé. ::.....:,,... eight. a 
Tchinéh Jchampé ........ +... nine. \ 
Houampé.. 5... ten. à 
Tchinébi kaffma....... .... eleven. a 
Toubi kaffma ......+... twelve. 4 
Tchébi kafma...... . s . «thirteen. Be 
Ynébi kaffra : . .... +. « . fourteen. iB 


Afchnébi kafina....... » fifteen. 
Fhambi kaffma:......... fixteen. 


Araouambi kaffma ....... feventeen. 4 
Toubi fchampt kaffima ...... eighteen. 4 
Tchinèbi Jchampi kaffma . . ; . nineteen. 

Houampébi kaffma . ...... twenty. 

Houampébi kaffma tchiné-ho. . « thirty. 

Yné houampé touch-ho..... forty. 

Afchné houampé taich-ho . . . . fifty. 

Tou afchné houampé taich-ho. ... one hundred. 


If in this language there is any difference betweeñ 

the fingular and the plural, it is rot expreffive by 
their pronunciation. | 

I neither 


[1787, 
it? an inter- 


hat there; a 
our. 


res 


t. 


en. 
lve. 
teen. 
rteen. 
en. 
een. 
nteen. 
iteen. 
eteen. 
nty. 

Lys 

Ys 
vhtindred. 


rence betweeit 
t expreffive by 


I neither 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. . 117 

I neither faw thefe iflanders dance nor fing, but 
they all produce pleafing founds from the principal 
(talk of a large kind of celery, or fpecies of Euphor- 
bium, open at each extremity. "They blow at the 
{mall end, and their tones are a tolerable imitation of 
the fofter notes of a trumpet. They play no de- 
terminate air, but a mere fucceffion of high and low 
notes, the compafs of which may exténd to an octave 
and a half, or two octaves, that is to 12 or 16 tones. 
We did not perceive, they had any other mufical in- 
firument. 


wae © fe Q Gee 


CHAP. XXII. 


ANCHORAGE IN THE BAY OF AWATSCHA—OBLIGING 
RECEPTION OF LIEUTENANT KABOROF—ARRIVAL 
OF M. KASLOFF-OUGRENIN, GOVERNOR OF OK- 
HOTSK, AT THE HARBOUR OF ST. PETER AND ‘ST. 
PAUL—HE IS FOLLOWED ON BOARD BY M. SCHMA- 
LEFF AND THE UNFORTUNATE IVACHKIN, WHO. 
EXCITES IN US THE MOST LIVELY INTEREST— 
KIND OFFICES OF THE GOVERNOR TOWARDS US—= 
A BALL AMONG THE KAMTSCHADALES—A COURIER 
ARRIVES FROM OKHOTSK AND BRINGS US LETTERS 
FROM FRANCE—WE DISCOVER THE TOMB OF M. 
DE LA CROYERE, TO WHICH, AND TO THAT OF 
CAPT. CLERKE, WE AFFIX INSCRIPTIONS, ENGRAV- 
ED ON COPPER—NEW POLITICAL VIEWS OF M. 
KASLOFF, RELATIVE TO THE ADMINISTRATION OF 
KAMTSCHATKA—WE OBTAIN PERMISSION TO SEND 
OUR INTERPRETER, WITH OUR PAPERS, TO FRANCE 
—DEPARTURE FROM THE BAY OF AWATSCHA. 


X X TE had not yet moored before the harbour of 
St. Peter and St. Paul, when we received a 


vifit from tbe Toyon, or chief of the village, and many 
13 3 other 


118 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1797 
other inhabitants, who brought us each fome pre. 
fents of falmon or fkate, and offered their fervices in 
hunting boars, or fhooting the wild ducks which 
covered the ponds and rivers. We accepted thefe 
offers, lent them our mufkets, gave them powder 
and fhot, and had plenty of game during our whole 
ftay in the Bay of Awatfcha They made no demand 
of any compenfation for their labour, but we had 
‘been fo abundantly furnifhed at Breft, with articles 
of great value to the inhabitants of Kamtfchatka, 
that we infifted on their accepting fome marks of our 
gratitude, and our treafures permitted us to pro. 
portion thefe rather to their wants, than to the pre. 
fents they brought us. The government of Kamt- 
{chatka had been totally changed fince the departure 
of the Englifh. It was now a mere province to that 


of Okhotfk, and the various potts of this peninfula M 
had their refpective commandants, who were ac- | 


countable only to the commandant-general of Ok- 
hotfk. Capt. Schmaleff, who fucceeded Major Behm, 

ro tempore, {till remained in that country with the 
title of commandant of the Kamtfchadales. M. 


Reinikin, the actual fucceñlor-of Major Behm, who || 
errived at Kamtfchatka foon after the departure of M 
the Englith, had been governor only during four à 


years, having returned ta Peterfburgh in 1784. We 


Jearnt thefe particulars of Lieutenant Kaborof, who | 


commanded at the harbour of St. Peter and St, 
Paul, having under his orders a ferjeant and a de- 
tachment of 40 foldiers, or coffacks. ‘This officer 
paid us the moft unlimited attention and politenefs; 
and his perfonal fervices,as well as thofe of his detach- 
ment, and every thing he poflefled, were at our dif- 

ofal. He would not even permit me to fend an 
officer to Bolcheretfk, where M. Kafloff-Ougrenin, 
governor of Okhotik, then on a tour through this 
province, moft fortunately happened to be. He in- 


formed me, the governor would come within a few | 
7 days | 


Ss oh ceca 8 D 


a pe pi 


meet hme A FF et ve 


[1787 
fome pre. 
ir fervices in 
ucks which 
cepted thefe 
hem powder 
hg our whole 
e no demand 
but we had 
with articles 
amtfchatka, 
marks of our 

us to pro- 
n to the pre. 
ent of Kamt- 
he departure 
vince to that 


his peninfula 7 
ho were ac- | 
neral of Ok- | 


Major Behn, 
mtry with the 


hadales. M. a 


r Behm, who 


departure of M 
during four & 


in 1784. We 
Kaborof, who 
Jeter and St, 
ant and a de- 

This officer 
id politenefs; 
of his detach- 
re at our dif- 
1e to fend an 
off-Ougrenin, 
through this 
> be. He in- 
within a few 
: days 


2787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 119 


days to St. Peter and St. Paul, and probably was 
already on the road; adding that this journey was a 
much more confiderable expedition than we could 
imagine, as the feafon did not admit of going in a 
fledge, and it was abfolutely neceflüry to perform it 
partly on foot and partly in canoes, up the rivers of 
Awaticha and Bolchertték. 

M. Kaborof offered, at the fame time, to fend a cof- 
{ack to carry my difpatches to M. Kafloft, of whom 
he fpoke with an enthufiafm and a fatisfaction, in 
which we could not but participate. He was conti- 
nually rejoicing that we fhould have occafion to com- 
municate and treat witha gentleman, whofe educa- 
tion, manners, and knowledge, were equal to thofe : 
of any officer in the Ruffian empire, or even any 
other nation. M. de Leffeps, our young interpreter, 
fpoke the Ruffian language with as much facility as 
his native tongue. He tranflated the converfation of 
the lieutenant, and in that language wrote a letter 
} in my name to the Governor of Okhotfk, to whom 
1 alfo wrote in French. I obferved to him, that the 
third voyage of Captain Cook having publifhed to all 
the world the hofpitality of the government of Kamt- 
{chatka, I flattered myfelf with meeting the fame re- 
ception as the Englifh navigators, the objeét of our 
voyage being, like theirs, the general utility of all 
maritime nations. M, Kafloff’s anfwer could not ar- 
rive in lefs than five or fix days ; and our good lieu- 
tenant told us, he only anticipated the orders of that 
officer and the Emprefs of Ruffia, by defiring us to 
| confider ourfelyes as in our own country, and to dif- 
| pofe freely of every thing the placc afforded. His 
countenance, his expreffions, and his manners, evin- 
| ced, that had he the power miraculoufly to change 
the face of Nature, thefe barren mountains and un- 
4 drained märfhes would have been converted into re- 
| gions of enchantment and felicity. 

A report was fpread, that M, Kafloff had no latter 
I4 or 


120 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


for us, but that the former Governor of Kamtfchatka, 
Mr. Steinheil, whom M. Schmaleff preceded as cap. 


tain-ifpravenik, ov infpeétor of the Kamtfchadales,and | 


who refided at Verkhnei-Kamtfchatka, might have 
fome ; and immediately on this fimple rumour, which 
appeared almost deftitute of probability, he fent off an 
exprefs, who had to go above 150 leagues on foot, 
M. Kafloff knew how defirous we were to receive 
letters, M. de Lefleps having communicated to him 
our concern that no packet addreffed to us had ar- 
rived at St. Peter and St. Paul. He appeared equally 
afflicted wiih ourfelves, and exprefled fo much fo. 
licitude and care, that he féemed almoft to fay he 
would go himfelf to Europe to feek our letters, if 
there were any hopes of finding us again at hisre. 
turn. The ferjeant and all the foldiers fhewed the 
fame anxicty to ferve'us; and Mrs. Kaborof behaved 


to us with the moft engaging politenefs. Her houfe 


was open to us at all hours of the day, and tea and | 


every refrefhment the country afforded were of. 
fered us. Every one was defirous to make us pre- 
fents ; and, notwithftanding the rule we had efta- 


blifhed of not accepting any, we could not refift the | 


preffing folicitations of Mrs. Kaborof, who obliged 


our officers as well as M. de Langle and myfelf, toac- 1 
cept fome fkins of fables, rein-deer, and foxes, though | 
far more ufeful to thofe who prefented them than ta li 
us, who were about to return towards the tropics. | 7 


Fortunately we had the means of. difcharging the 
obligation, and we urgently folicited permiffion to 
offer, in our turn, fuch articles as could not be found 
at Kamtichatka. If, however, ours were richer than 
our hoft’s, it was impoflible for our manners to ex- 
hibit that unaffeéted and engaging kindnefs, which 
furpaties every kind of gift. i 

I exprefled to M. Kaborof, through M. de Lef- 
feps, that I wifhed to form a little eftablifhment on 


ee 


ie, oe eee Sewer Fey ae 
SA ean G4 TT leas apenas oe 


fhore, to lodge our aftronomers, and place a aac E 
and = 


[1787. 
amtfchatka, 
ded as cap- 


ight have 


fent off an 
hes on foot, 
> to receive 
ated to him 
> us had ar. 
ared equally 
o much fo- 
ftto fay he 


w letters, if & 


in at his re. 
fhewed the 
prof behaved 


id were of: 
nake us pre- 


we had efta- 

not refift the | 
who obliged |} 
myfelf, toac- M 
foxes, though M 
them thanto | 


the tropics. 
charging the 


ermiflion to 


not be found 
re richer than 
anners tO eX 


dnefs, which 


1 M. de Lef: 
blifhment on 
ce a quadrant 

and 


hadales,and | 


nour, which | 


, Her houfe | 
and tea and | 


1787. ] ROUND THE WORLD. 121 


and pendulum. The moft commodious houfe in the 
village was immediately offered us, and not vifiting 
it till fome hours after this requeft, we thought we 
might accept it without impropriety, as it appeared 
uninhabited; but we learned afterwards that the 
lieutenant had difplaced the corporal, his fecre- 
tary, who was the third perfon in rank in the coun- 
try, to make room for us. The Ruffian difcipline 
is fuch, that their movements are performed with 
as much promptitude as the evolutions of military 
exercife, and are only ordered by a motion of the 


Scarcely had aur aftronomers erected their obfer- 
vatory, before our naturalifts, who were no lefs affi- 
duous and zealous in their purfuits, were defirous of 
making an excurfion to the volcano, whofe diftance 
appeared to be lefs than two leagues, although it 
was at leaft eight to the foot of the mountain, which 
was almoft entirely covered with fnow, and at the 
fummit of which was the crater. The mouth, which 
was turned toward Awatfcha, continually threw out 
volumes of fmoke; and only once during the night, 
we faw bluifh and yellow flames, which, however, 
rofe but to a very inconfiderable height. 

The zeal of M. Kaborof was equally ardent for our 
naturalifts as for our aftronomers. Eight coffacks were 
immediately ordered to accompany Mefirs, Bernizet 
Mongés and Receveur. The health of M. Lamanon 
was not yet fufficiently re-eftablifhed to participate in 
fuch an expedition. Never, perhaps, was fo arduous 
an enterprize undertaken for the advancement of the 
{ciences; and none of the learned men, Englith, 
Germans, or Ruffians, who had been at Kamtfchatka, 
had attempted fo difficult an enterprize. The mere 
afpect of the mountain led me to believe it inaccef- 
fible. We perceived no verdure whatever, and its 
fides were extremely fteep. Our intrepid adventurers, 
hawever, fet off with the hope of vanquifhing all thefe 

difficulties, 


123 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787, 


difficulties.’ The coflacs were charged with their 
baggage, which confifted of a tent, variour furs, and 
provifions for each of them during four days, The 
honour of carrying the barometers, thermometers, 
the acids, and other articles for making obfervations, 
was referved for the naturalifts themfelves, who dared 
not confide thefe fragil infiruments to any other 
bands. ‘Their guides were only to conduct them to : 
the foot of the mountain; a prejudice, almoft as an- 
cient as. Kamtfchatka itfelf, prevailing among the 
Kamtfchadales and the Ruffians, that the vapours pro- 
ceeding from the mountain mutt inevitably fuffocate 
all who are:rafh enough to afcend it. They hoped, 
na doubt, that our naturalifts would, like them, fiop 
at the foot of the mountain ; a few glafles of brandy 
given them before they fet out having’ probably ex- 
cited in’ them this tender intcreft in their fafety, 
and made them fet off with much gaicty in this idea, 
Their firft halting place was in the midft -of the 
woods, fix leagues fram the harbour of St. Peter and 
St. Paul. Till then they had travelled over a tole- 
rably eafy ground, covered with plants and trees, of 
which the greater number were of the birch kind, 
The fir treesithey met with were ftunted, and al. 
moft dwarfs..: One of thefe fpecics bears cones, of 
which the fmall nuts are good toeat ; and from the 
bark of the birch flows a very wholefome and agree- 
able beverage, which the Kamttchadales carefully re- 
ceive in veflels, of which they drink great quanti- 
ties. Berries of all kinds; and of every fhade of red 
and black, offered themfelves at every ftep to our 
travellers. Their tafte was generally rather acid, but 
with fugar they are very agreeable to the palate. 

At fun-fet the tent was pitched, the fine lighted, 
and every thing prepared for pafling the night with 
‘a difpatch unknown to the luxurious inhabitants of 
towns and cities. They took the greateft precau- 
tions that the fire fhould mot communicate to the 

; trees 


1787, 
their 
s, and 
The 
eters, 
tions, 
dared 
other 


em to : 


as an- 
g the 
8 pro- 
ocate 
oped, 
, top 
brandy 
ply ex- 
fafety, 
s idea, 
of the 
er and 
a tole- 
ees, of 
| kind, 
and al. 
ies, of 
ym the 
agree- 
lly re- 
juanti- 
of red 
to our 


id, but 


e. 
ghted, 
it with 
ants of 
yrecau - 
to the 

trees 


1787] ROUND THE WORLD, 124 


trees of the foreft. . So grent a misfortune could 
not be expiated by a few ftripes befiowed on the 
backs of the coflacks, becaufe fire puts all the fables 
to flight, and after fuch an accident, no more are 
to be found during the whole Winter. This is 
the feafon for hunting thefe animals, whofe fkin 
conftitutes the whole riches of the country. It is 
given in exchange for all the commodities Xt have 
occafion to purchafe, and muft alfo pay the balance 
of their annual tribute to the imperial treafury. That 
crime, therefore, muft be enormous, which would 
deprive the Kamtfchadales of all thefe adyazitayes. 
Accordingly the coflicks took the preatcft pains to 
cut down the grais round the fire, ad stig a decp 
hole before their departure to bury the afhes, which 
they extinguifhed by covering them with carth, 
moiftened with a great quantity of water. During: 
this day's journey, the only quadruped they faw was 
a hare, which was almoft white. They taw neither 
bears, argali (mountain-fheep) nor reir -dozr, though 
thefe animals are very common in that couniry, 
The next morning at day-break they continued their 
journcy. 

A great quantity of fnow fell during the night, 
and, which was ftill worfe, a thick fog covered tue 
yolcanic mountain, at the foot of which ou: waturea- 
lifts did not arrive till three in the afternoon. ‘ihcir 
guides flopped, accordiug to their agrecinent, as 
foon as they arrived at the confines of vegctation, 
pitched their tents, and lighted a fire, This mghi’s 
reit was highly neceflary previous to wadertaking 
the fatigues of the following day. Meflrs. Berni- 
zet, Mongès, and Receveur, begsn to afcend the 
mountain at fix o’clock in the morning, and did not 
fiop till three in the afternoon, when they arrived at 
the edge of the crater, but av its lower part; having 
been freyuently culiged to fupport- themfelves with 
their hands among thefe broken rocks, between which 

were 


124 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


were very dangerous precipices. All the fubftances of 
which this mountain is compofed are lavas more or 
lefs porous, and almoft in the ftate of pumice ftone, 
On the fiunmit they met with gypfeous fubftances 
and chryftallizations of fulphur, though much lef 
beautiful than thofe of the peak of Teneriffe. In 
general the fhorls and all the other ftones appeared 
inferior in beauty to thofe of this ancient volcano, 
which has not produced an eruption during the lafi 
century ; whereas that of Karitfchatka threw out fub- 
ftances in 1778, during the ftay of Captain Clerke in 
the bay of Awatfcha. However they brought away 
fome pretty fine fpecimens of chryfolite, though they 
met with much bad weather, and traverfed fuch dif- 
ficult roads, that it is aftonifhing they were able to 
carry additional wejghts, befides their barometers, 
thermometers, and other infiruments. Their view 
never extended beyond a mufket-fhot except during 
a few minutes, when they perceived the bay of Awatt- 
cha, and our fhips, which from that elevation ap- 
peared of lefs magnitude than fmall canoes. Their 
barometer fell at the edge of the crater to 19 inches, 
11 lines, and ,%, while ours, on board our fhips, 
where we made obfervations every hour, was at the 
fame time at 27 inches, 0 lines, 7. Their thermo- 
meter was 23 below the freezing point, and differed 
12 degrees from the temperature at the water fide. 
Thus, admitting the calculation of thofe natural phi- 
lofophers who rely on this method of meafuring the 
height of mountains, with correfponding allowances 
for the ftate of the thermometer, our adventurers 
muft have afcended about 1500 toifes above the level 
of the fea* ; a moft prodigious height, confidering 
the difficulties they had to encounter. : But they 
were fo embarrafled by the fogs, that they determin- 
ed to renew their vifit the next day if the weather 
was more favourable, for the difficulties they had en- 
countered only encreafed their zeal, and they de- 
* See the note on vol, i, page 15.—French Editor. 
fcended 


enh Er ‘4 
= ere 


[1787. 
bftances of 
as more or 
nice ftone, 
fubftances 
much lefs 
ieriffé. In 
Ps appeared 
t volcano, 
ng the lafi 
w out fub- 
n Clerke in 
ught away 
ough they 
ed fuch dif- 
ere able to 
arometers, 
‘heir view 
ept during 
y of Awatf- 
evation ap: 
ves. Their 
> 19 inches, 
our fhips, 
was at the 
eir thermo- 
ind differed 
water fide. 


natural phi- 


afuring the 
allowances 
adventurers 
ve the level 
confidering 
\ But they 
y determin- 
the weather 
hey had en- 
d they de- 
Editor. 
{cended 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 125 


{cended the mountain, and returned to their tents 
full of this courageous refolution. The night was 
then drawing in, and their guides had already been 
offering up their prayers for their fouls, and began 
to drink the liquors which they confidered as ufelefs 
to the dead. The licutenant being informed of this 
precipitation, at their return ordered 100 ftripes to 
be infliéted on the moft culpable, which they recciv- 
ed before we were apprifed of it, or had an opportu- 
nity of interceding for their pardon. The night that 


followed this journey was tremendous; the fall of 


fnow redoubled, and in a few hours was feveral feet 
deep. It was therefore impoffible to attempt execut- 
ing their intended plan, and they arrived the fame 


evening at the village of St. Peter and St. Paul, after 


a journey of eight leagues, which on their return was 
lefs fatiguing from the natural declivity of the ground. 
While our mineralogifts and aftronomers fo well 
employed their time, we filled our cafks with water, 
our hold with wood, and cut and dried hay for the 
live ftock we expected; for we had only a fingle 
fheep remaining. The lieutenant had written to M. 
Kafloff, requefting him to collect as much cattle 
as poffible, for he calculated with grief, that it would 
be impoffible for us to vait for thofe which the gover- 
nor had doubtlefs ordered to be brought from Verkh- 

nei, and which would require fix weeks to arrive. 
The indifference of the inhabitants of Kamtfchat- 
ka towards their flocks has retarded their increafe in 
the fouthern part of this peninfula, or with care 
they would foon equal Ireland in number. The 
fineft thick grafs grows in natural meadows to the 
height of more than four feet, and immenfe quanti- 
ties of forage might thence be got in againft the 
winter, which in this climate lafts two or three 
months. But the Kamtfchadales are incapable of 
fuch care; barns and immenfe ftables, fheltered 
from the cold, would then become neceflary, and it 
appears 


126 LA BÉROUSE’S VOYAGE (1785. 
appears to them more convenient to live on the pro: 
duce of the chace, and particularly on falmon, which 
comes every ycar like the marina in the defart, at 
the fame feafon, to load their nets and fecure their 
annual fubfifténce. The Coflacks and Ruffians, 
more foldiers than hufbandmen, have adopted the 
fame mode. The lieutenant and ferjeant alone had 
little gardens, planted with potatoes and turnips: 
their-exhortation and example could have no influ- 
ence on the reft of their fellow-countrymen, who 
were byno means averfe to partake with them, but 
who would not, to have them of their own, take 
any other trouble than to gather them, had nature [7 
fpontaneoufly offered them in the fields, like faranne,  BS 
garlick, and particularly bay-berries, of which they 
make a pleafant drink, and fweetmeats which they | 
keep for the winter. Our European feeds were in 
a very good ftate of prefervation, of which we gave  # 
a great quantity to the lieutenant and ferjeant, hop- 

to hear one day that they had completely fucceeded 

in rearing them. In the midft of all our labours we 

had yet time for diverfions, and made different hunt- 

ing parties on the rivers Awatfcha and Paratourka, D 
for our ambition was to kill bears, rein-decr, or ar- | 
gali, though frequently obliged to be contented with J 
a few ducks or teal, which were not worth our long 
and arduous excurfions. Our friends the Kamit. 
chadales made us more happy, bringing, during 
LE our ftay, four bears, an argali, and a rem-deer, with 
iia fuch a quantity of divers and puffins, that we 
diftributed them among the whole crew, who were 
already tired of fifh. One caft of the net which 
we made near our frigates, would have been futh- 
cient for the fupport of fix fhips: but the kinds of 
fifh were not much varied, confifting chiefly in fmall 
cod, herring, plaice and falmon. I ordered a few 
barrels only to be falted down, as I was informed 
that all the fifh were fo fmall and tender, that es 
coule 


ARS 


[1787. 
the pro: 
on, which 
defart, at 
ure their 
Ruffians, 
opted the 
alone had 
turnips : 
no influ- 
en, who 
them, but 
pwn, take 
ad nature 
te faranne, 
hich they 
vhich they 
s were in 
h we gave 
ant, hop- 
fucceeded 
abours we 
rent hunt- 
aratounka, 
scr, Or ar- 
ented with 
1 our long 
re Kamit. 
g, during 
deer, with 
, that we 
who were 
net which 
been futh- 
e kinds of 
ly in fmall 
red a few 
> informed 
, that they 
could 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 127 


could not refift the corrofive aétivity of the falt, 
which it would be better to keep for the pigs we 
fhould meet with in the iflands of the South Sea. 
While we paffed a few days, which feemed fo plea- 
fant after the fatigues we had undergone of making 
difcoveries on the coafts of Oku-Jeffo and Tartary, 
M. Kafloff fet off for the harbour o St. Peter and St. 
Paul, but he travelled flowly fron. a with to obferve 
every thing, the object of his miffion being for the 
eftablifhment of the beft adminiftration poffible in 
this province, knowing that no general plan could 
be formed to this effect without examining into the 
produce of the country, and what a careful and 
proper cultivation congenial to the climate renders 
it fufceptible of. He likewife wifhed to examine the 
fiones, minerals, and all the fubftances of the foil of 
the province gencrally. His obfervations detained 
him fome days at the hot fprings, twenty Icagues 
from St. Peter and St. Paul, from whence he brought 
different kinds of ftones and other volcanic matters, 
with a gum which he gave to M. Monges to be ana- 
lyfed: he frankly faid on his arrrival,’that having 
been apprized by the public prints that feveral able 
naturalifts had been embarked on board our frigates, 
he had a defire to take advantage of fo fortunate a 
circumftance, to make himfelf acquainted with the 
different fubftances of the peninfula of Kamtfchatka 
from his own obfervation. The politenefs and man- 
ners of M. Kafloff were abfolutely thofe of the be& 
educated inhabitants of the firft cities of Europe; 
he {poke French and knew fomething of all the ob- 
jects of our refearches, as well in geography as na- 
tural hifiory : we were furprifed to find an officer 
whofe merit would have diftinguifhed him in all the 
nations of Europe, placed in a favage country, at the 
remoteft part of the world. a 
It is eafy to conceive that the ties of intimacy 
muft foon be formed between Colonel Kafloff and 
us. 


: Jearnt from him that no courier had been received 


aéted on different principles, and that he only regret 
‘ te 


128 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787, 
us. The day after he arrived, he came to dine on 
board my fhip, together with M. Schmaleff and 
the vicar of Paratounka. I gave him a falute of 
thirteen guns. Our countenances, that befpoke a 


greater degree of health than even what we enjoyed | \ 
at our departure from Europe, extremely furprifed § t 
him. I told him we were partly indebted to it forou | v 
own care, and much more to the abundance in which a 
we lived in his government. M. Kafloff feemed to - a 
partake of the happinefs of our fituation ; but evince [a h 
ed the moft fenfible pain in the impoffibility of get- | li 
ting more than feven oxen before the time fixed upon  BS fk 
for our taking leave, which was tvo near at hand to d 
think of procuring them from the river of Kamtf à bi 
chatka, which was more than a hundred leagues dif- | b] 
tant from St. Peter and St. Paul. He had now been | at 
fix months in expectation of the fhip which was to 2 th 
bring corn and other neceffaries to the garrifon of | th 
this province from Okhotfk, and he prefumed with 2 T 


grief that fome accident had happened to it: our . 
iurprife at having no letters diminifhed, when we 


fince he left Okhotfk, adding that he was going to [7% 
return thither by land, keeping along the coaft to | 
Okhotik, a journey almoft as long, or at any rate more 
difficult than that from Okhotfk to Peterfburgh. 

On the morrow the governor and all his /wite din- 
ed on board the Aftrolabe, when he was likewife fa- 
luted with the fame number of guns, but he fer- 
vently befeeched us to ftand no more upon compli- 
ment, that we might in future fee each other with 
greater freedom and pleafure. 1 

It was not in our power to make the governor 
take the price of the bullocks ; in vain we reprefent- 
ed that at Manilla, notwithftanding our clofe alliance 
with Spain, we had paid the whole of our expences, 
M. Kafloff telling us that the Ruffian government 


[1787, 

o dine on 
aleff and 
falute of 
befpoke a 
e enjoyed 
- furprifed 
it for our 
= in which 
feemed to 
but evinc- 
ity of get- 
ixed upon 
t hand to 
of Kamtf- 
agues dif- 
now been 
ch was to 
garrifon of 
med with 


to it: our . 


when we 
n received 
s going to 
e coaft to 
y rate more 
burgh. 

s fuite din- 
ikewife fa- 
ut he fer- 
yn compli- 
other with 


eg governor 
> reprefent- 
ofe alliance 
r expences, 
rovernment 
only regret- 

ted 


1786.] ROUND THE WORLD, _ 129 


ted having fo few beafts at his difpofal. . He invited, 
us the following day to a ball, which he:gave on our 
account’ to all the Kamtfchadale as well as Ruffian 
women at St. Peter and St. Paul. If the affembly. 
was not numerous, it was at leaft. extraordinary : 
thirteen females, cloathed in filk ftuff, ten of whom 
were Kamtfchadales, with broad faces, little eyes, 
and flat nofes, were feated on benches round the 
apartment, who as well as the Ruffians bad filk 
handkerchiefs boynd round their heads, fomething 
like the Mulatto women in our colonies: but the 
fketches of M. Duché will give a better idea of their 
dreffes than I can poffibly do by defcription. .The 
ball was opened by Ruffian dances, to very agreea- 
ble airs, which were not unlike the Coffack danced 
at Paris a few years ago. ‘The Kamtfehadale dances 
then fucceeded, which can only be compared tothofeof: 
the convulfionnaires, at the famous tomb of St. Medard, 


| The only requifites for a dancer in this part of Afia 


are arms, fhoulders, and hardly any legs; the Kamt- 
fchadales, by their convulfed and contracted move- 
ments, infpiring all the fpeétators with a moft pain- 
ful fenfation, which is excited in a ftill greater de- 
gree by the doleful cry which iffues from the ca- 
vity of the throat of thofe dancing, and which is the 
only mufic they have for keeping time with their 


| movements. Their fatigue during this kind of ex- 


ercife is fuch, that they are moft difguftingly covered 


| with fweat, and lie extended on the ground without 
| being able to get up again of themfelves. The abun- 
| dant exhalations which their. body emits, perfumes 
| the apartment with a fmell of oil and fifh, to which 
| European noftrils are too ttle accuftomed to know 
| the fweets of. The dances being always imitative, 
[and in fome refpeét only pantomimes, .I afked what 


two women in particular-meant to exprefs by fo vio- 


| lent an exercife? I was told it was a reprefentation 


Voz. II. K of 


130 . LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE | 1787. 


of a bear-hunt ; the woman who rolled about on the 
pons being the animal, and her that run round 
er the huntfman : but could the bears fpeak, and be 
fpetators of fuch a pantomine, they would have 
great reafon to complain of fo ftupid an imitation. 
This dance, equally fatiguing to the dancers and 
lookers on, was hardly finifhed, when a joyful fhout 
announced the arrival of a courier from Okhotik, 
charged with a great box full of letters for us. The 


ED tate ee es 


ball: was interrupted, and each dancer fent away with 

a glafs of brañdy, a refrefhment worthy of thefe 1 
Terpfichores. M. Kafloff perceiving our impatience 

for learning news, in which we were all interefted, 

from Europe, earneftly intreated us not to defer that à 
pleafure. He put us into his own room and retired, < 
that he might not check the effufion of the dif ag D 
ferent fenfations which might affect us, accord- @ te 
ing to the accounts each might receive from his | I 


family or friends... They were happy for all, but par- 
ticularly fo for me, who had been promifed, by a fa- | 
vour to which I could never have afpired, the rank 
of commodore. The congratulations which every 
one was cager to make foon came to the ears of M. [7 
Kafloff, who infifted on celebrating this event by a | 
none of the whole of his artillery: never while! Gay , 
live fhall I forget the tokens of friendfhip and regard (ae 4) 
I received from him on this occafion. I did not pas 7% : 
a moment in his company which was not marked by (7 
fome traits of kindnefs or attention ; and it were ufe- 
lefs to fay, that from the time of his arrival: all the in- 
habitants of the country hunted and fifhed for us 
alone, who could not near confume the quantity of 
rovifions. ‘To this he added every kind of prefent 7 
e could think of for M. Langle and myfelf; he PS 
compelled us to accept a Kamtfchadale fledge for | 
the King’s colleGion of curiofities, and two royal 
eagles for the menagerie, belides feveräl fables. W 
in our turn offercd him whatever we could ae 
tha 


| 1787. 
mut on the 
un. round 
ak, and be 
ould have 
itation. 
incers and 
yful fhout 
à, Okhotik, 
y us. The 
away with 
ry of thefe 
impatience 
| interefted, 
> defer that 
and retired, 
of the dif- 


us, accord- 7% 
ve from his 


all, but par- 


ed, the rank 
which every 


ot marked by 
d it were ufe- 
val all the in- 
fifhed for us 
e quantity of 
nd of prefent 


ind two royal 
il fables. We 
ould think of 

that 


fed, by afa- | 


e ears of M. h 
| event by 2 | 
never while! (3% 
ip and regard | 
I did not pafs 7 


1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 131 


that would be either ufeful or agreeable, but we 
were rich alone in what regarded barter with the 
favages, and had nothing worthy his acceptance, 
We begged him to accept the account of Cooke’s 
third voyage, which feemed to be a great fatisfac- 
tion to him, having in his retinue almoft all the 

rfonages which the editor had introduced, M. 
Schmaleff, the worthy vicar of Paratounka, and the 
unfortunate Ivafchkin; he tranflated every thing 
which related to them, who repeated at each time 
that all was told with the ftricteft regard to truth. 
The ferjeant alone, who at that time commanded at 
St. Peter and St. Paul, was dead. The others were 
in the beft ftate of health, and refided fiill in the 
country, except Major Behm, who had returned to 
Peterfburgh, and Port, who refided at Irkoutik. 1 
teftified to M. Kafloff my turprife at finding the old 
Ivafchkin at Kamtfchatka, the Englifh accounts giv- 
ing out that he had at laft got leave to go and refide 
at Okhotsk. We could not but take the moft live: 
ly concern at this unfortunate man’s fate, whofe only 
fault confifted in fome indiféréet obfervations on the 
Emprefs Elizabeth, at getting up from a party at 
table, where the wine had overpowered his reafon, at 
a time when under twenty years of age, an officer iff 
the guards of a diftinguifhed family in Ruffia, and 
amiable deportment, which neither time nor misfor- 


B tunes could change: he was degraded and banifhed 


into the wilds of Kamtfchatka, after having received 
the knout, and had his noftrils flit. Thé Emiprefs 
Catherine, whofe kindnefs extended even to viétims 


| of the preceding reign, pardoned this urifortunate 


man many years ago: but an abode of more thar’ 56 
years in the vaft forefts of Kamtfchatka, the bitter ré- 


| membrance of the difgraceful punifhment he under- 


went, and: a fecret fentiment of hatred, perhaps, of 
an authority which could fo cruelly puniflt a fault, 
the circumftances of which might be pleaded in- ex- 

K?° tenuation ; 


132 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


tenuation ; thefe feveral motives rendered him infen- | 
fible to this tardy aé of juftice, and he propofed go- ; 
ing to Siberia to die there. We begged him to ac- y 
cept of fome tobacco, powder, lead, cloth, and ge- à. 

ncrally fpeaking every thing which we thought might 
be of ufe to him. He was brought up at Paris, the £ 
language of which he had fome recollection of, and tl 
was at no lofs for words to exprefs his gratitude to 0 
us. M. Kafloff he loved as a father, accompanying tc 
him in his voyage through affection, and the good | ny 
hearted governor had a regard for him, which fo Pl 
operated on his mind, as to make him forget his Wi 
misfortunes*. He was fo kind as to point out to us th 
. the tomb of M. de la Croyére, (whom he had feen tt 
interred at Kamtfchatka in 1741) on which we placed W 
the following infcription, cut in brafs, the compofi- 8 

tion of M. Dagelet, who was, like himfelf, a member 
ve 


of the Academy of Sciences. | 

‘ Here lies Louis, de l’Ifle de la Croyère, Member | th 
“ of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, who 
‘ died in 1741, on his return from an expedition un- 
“ dertaken by order of the Czar to explore the coafts 
‘ of America: aftronomer and geographer, the rival 
‘ competitor of two brothers, famous in thofefciences, 
“he merited the lamentations of his country. In 
‘1786 the Count de la Péroufe, commanding the 


* The remembrance and difgrace of an unjuft punifhment fo 
worked on the unhappy Ivafchkin, as to determine him to hide 
himfelf from the eyes of ftrangers, and it was not for a week after 
the two op came in that Leffeps could find him out. This in- 
terpreter, feeling for his fituation, made La Péroufe acquainted 1 
with it, who, admiring the charaéter of an old man whofe misfor- ESS 
tunes he refpected, begged to fee him, which he only fucceeded in 
by the power Colonel Kafloff had over his. mind inducing him to 
quithisretreat. The agreeable difpofition of La Péroufe foon infpir- 
ed Ivafchkin with the greateft confidence, who, always thankful for 
the favours he rerelvei, gave ftill more lively teftimonies of his gra- 
titude, when the French commodore made him ufeful prefents, of 
which he was really in the moft abfolute want. 

This faé&, which Leffeps has feveral times informed me of, could 
not be omitted here, —French Editor. ; 

Majefty’s 


[1787. 
im infen- 
pofed go- 
im to ac- 
, and ge- 
bht might 
Paris, the 
bn. of, and 
atitude to 
mpanying 
the good 
which fo 
forget his 
out to us 
had feen 
we placed 
e compofi- 
a member 
\ 
e, Member 
Paris, who 
edition un- 
> the coafts 
r, thé rival 
ofefciences, 
untry. In 
anding the 


punifhment fo 
e him to hide 
ra week after 
out. This in- 
ife acquainted 
whofe misfor- 
y fucceeded in 
ducing him to 
afe foon infpir- 
ys thankful for 


nies of his gra- 


ul prefents, of 


d me of, could xg 


Majefty’s ‘ 


1787] ROUND THE WORLD. 133 


“ King’s frigates the Bouffole and Aftrolabe, con- 
“ fecrated his memory, by giving his name to an. 
s jfland near the places this learned man had vifited.” 

We likewife afked M. Kafloff’s permiffion to en- 
grave on’a:plate of the fame metal an infeription on 
the tomb of Captain Clerke, which was only pencilled 
on wood, too perifhable a fubftance to commemorate 
to perpetuity fo eflimable a navigator. The gover- 
nor had the kindnefs, in addition to his leave, to. 
promife to raife without delay a monument more 
worthy of thefe two celebrated men, who fell under 
their laborious exertions, far diftant from their na- 
tive country. From him we learnt that La Croyére 
was married at ‘Tobolik, where his polterity refides in. 
great refpect, | ye 

The hiftory of Behring’s and Captain Tfchirikow’s, 
voyages were well known to M. Kafloff, who told us. 
that M. Billings was on that account left at Okhotfk,.. 
charged by the ftate with the conftruétion of two. 
fhips to continue the difcoveries of the Ruffians in: 
the: North Sea. He had given orders that every 
poflible means fhould be ufed for the acceleration of 
that expedition ; but his zeal, good. will, and anxiety, 
to fulfil the views of the Emprefs, could not over- 
come the obftacles which he muft meet with in a 
country as wild as on the firft day of its difcovery, 
and in which the rigour of the climate fufpends all 
work during more than eight months of the year. 
He conceived it would have been better ceconomy, 
and much more fpeedy, to fend M. Billings to fome 
port in the Baltic, where all his wants might be fup- 
plied for many years to come. 

We took a plan of the bay of Awatfcha, or ftriétly 
fpeaking, we verified that of the Englith, which is 
very accurate, and from which M. Bernizet made a. 
moft elegant drawing, which he begged the gover- 
nor’s acceptance of. M. Blondela-offered him alfo 
à copy of ‘the view of the ofrog, or town, and the 

K 3 Abbés 


134 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


Abbés Mongès and Receveur made him a prefent of 
a fmall box of acids to analyfe the waters, and gain 
a knowledge of the different fubftances of which the 
foil of Kamtfchatka is compofed, Chemiftry and 
mineralogy were fciences not unknown to M. Kaf- 
loff; he had a particular turn for chemical labours, 
but he informed us of what, from the evidence of 
reafon, it is eafy to conceive, that in an uncultivated 
country, before troubling itfelf about minerals, the 
firft care of a wife and enlightened adminiftration 
muft tend towards procuring bread for its inhabitants 
by accuftoming the ied 2 to cultivation. The ve- 
getation of the land befpoke its great fertility, and 
he had no doubt but that inftead of wheat, which 
would not thrive on account of the cold, they fhould 
- have abundant harvefts both of barley and rye. He 
made us take notice of the delightfu Te of 
many little fields of potatoes, the feeds of which came 
from Irkoutfk many years ago, and he propofed 
adopting certain gentle methods to: make the Ruf- 
fians, Coflacks, and Kamtfchadales till the ground, 
The fmall pox in 1769 took off three fourths of 
its whole inhabitants, which is at the prefent day re- 
duced throughout the whole peniniuia to Icfs than 
4000 natives, which will foon difappear entirely, by 
the frequent intermarriages of the Ruffians and 
Kamtfchadales, A mongrel race, more laborious 
than the Rufñlians, who are good for nothing but fol- 
diers, much ftronger, and in form lefs degrading 
to nature than that of the Kamtfchadales, will be 
the produce of them, and fucceed the old inhabi- 
tants.. The natives have already abandaned the holes 
in which they buried themfelves, like badgers, the 
whole winter, and where they inhaled an ‘infectious 
air which brought on many difeafes. The richer 
part of them now build #/bas, or log-houfes, after 
the Ruffian manner; their form is exaétly that 
of our pcafänts’ cottages, divided into three fmall 
| | ; rooms ; 


[1787. 
pie of 
| in 
ic the 
try and 
. Kaf- 
labours, 
nce of 
iltivated 
als, the 
iftration 
abitants 
The ve- 
ty, and 
» which 
y fhould 
ve. He 
rance of 
ch came 
propofed 
he Ruf- 
‘ound, 
urths of 
t day re- 
efs than 
irely, by 
ans and 
laborious 
+ but fol- 
egrading 
will be 
| inhabi- 
the holes 
rers, the 
nfectious 
e richer 
fes, after 
tly that 
ee {mall 
TOONS ; 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 135 


rooms; a brick ftove warms them, and keeps up a 
heat of more than 30 degrees, which is infupport- 
able to perfons not accuftomed to it. The others 
pafs their winter, like fummer, in balagans, which 
are a kind of pigeon-houfes, of wood, covered with 
thatch, elevated on poles twelve or thirteen feet high, 
where the women as well as the men have to climb 
up very fteep ladders. But the latter fort of houfes 
will foon difappear, the Kamtfchadales being of an 
imitative mind, adopting almoft all the cuftoms of 
their conquerors. The women are already coifed, 
and almoft entirely cloathed in the Ruffian manner, 
whofe language prevails in all the oftrogs, which is 
very pleafant, each Kamtfchadale village having be- 
fore fpoke a different jargon, the inhabitants of 
one hamlet not underflanding thofe who refided in 
the neighbouring one. To the praife of the Ruffians 
it may be faid, that notwithftanding they have efta- 
blifhed a defpotic government in thefe rugged cli- 
mates, it is tempered by principles of fuch.gentle- 
nefs and equity, that no inconveniences are felt from 
it. The Ruffians have no atrocity to reproach them- 
felves with, like the Eng'ifh at Bengal, or the Spa- 
niards at Peru and Mexico. The impoft raifed on 
thefe Kamtfehadales is fo light, that it can only be 
confidered as a tribute of gratitude, the produce 
of half a day’s ehace paying it for a whole year. It is 
furprifing to fee in thefe huts, more miferable to look 
at than the poorcft cottage in the mountainous part 
of our country, a circulation of pieces which appear 
fo much the more confiderable, as exifting only 
among a fmall number of the inhabitants ;‘ they con- 
fume fo little of the produce of Ruffia and China, 
that the balance of trade is abfolutely in their fa- 
vour, and they muft neceflarily receive the excefs 
due to them in roubles. Skins are much higher at 
Kamtfchatka than Canton; which proves that hi- 
therto the markets of Kiatcha have not felt the advan- 

K 4 tages 


136 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787; 


tages of the new opportunity for the difpofal of wares 
which is opened in China, the Chinefe merchants 
doubtlefs having fufficient addrefs to draw away thefe 
furs in dn infenfible manner, and thus gain immenfe 
wealth ; for at Macao they bought of us for the mo- 
derate price of ten piaftres, what at Pekin is,worth a 
hundred and twenty. An otter fkin fells at St. Peter 
and St. Paul for 30 roubles; that of a fable for threc 
or four, but the price of a fox fkin cannot be fixed : 
¥-do not fpeak of the black foxes, which are too rare 
‘ to be countedon,and are fold at upwards of a hundred 
roubles: The white and grey vary from two to twen- 
ty roubles, according as they approach in colour to 
the black or brown: thefe laft only differ from thofe 
of France in the foftnefs or thicknefs of their fkin. 
The Englifh, who by the happy conftitution of 
their company, may give the private commerce of In- 
dia all the aétivity it is fufceptible of, fent laft year 
a fmall veflel-to Kamtfchatka ; it was fitted out by a 
Bengal houfe, and commanded by Captain Peters, 
who tranfmitted to Colonel Kafloff a letter, written 
in French, of which he gave me a reading; defiring, 
in the clofe alliance between the two crowns in Eu- 
rope, permiffion to trade to Kamtfchatka, by carry- 
ing there the different produce of India and China, 
as well in ftuffs as fugar, tea, and arrack, and receiv- 
ing payment in the furs of the country. M. Kafloff 
was too much enlightened not at once to perceive 
that. this propofition would be very ruinous to the 
commerce of Ruffia, which advantageoufly, fold the 
fame things to the Kamtfchadales, which advan- 
tage was ftill greater on the fkins the Englith wanted 
for exportation: but he knew at the fame time that 
certain limited permits had fometimes been given, to 
the detriment of the metropolis, for the increafe of a 
colony, which might afterwards enrich the mother 
country, when it became old enough to be no longer 
in want of foreign trade: thefe confiderations bit 
yente 


[1787; 
of wares 
rchants 
ay thefe 
menfe 
he mo- 
orth a 
t. Peter 
or threc 
> fixed : 
too rare 
undred 
Oo twen- 
blour to 
m thofe 
fkin. 
ation of 
re of In- 
aft year 
ut by a 
Peters, 
written 
lefiring, 
yin Eu- 
| carry- 
China, 
| receiv- 
. Kafloff 
perceive 
s to the 
fold the 
advan- 
wanted 
ime that 
riven, to 
cafe of a 
mother 
o longer 
ns pre- 
yented 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. : 137 


vented M. Kafloff’s decifion of the queftion, and he 
permitted the Englith to lay this propofition ‘before 
the court of Peterfburgh, aware that fhould this 
requeft be granted, the confumption of Chinefe and 
Indian commoditics was too fmall, and too advanta- 
geous a market for fkins was opcned at Kiatcha ever 
to let the Bengal merchants purfue this fpeculation 
with profit. Befides, the veflel which brought this 
commercial propofition was wrecked a few days after 
its departure from the bay of Awatfcha, on Copper 
Ifland, and only two men faved, with whom I 
converfed, and furnifhed with cloaths, which the 
ftood in the greateft need of: fo that Captain Cook's 
fhips and ours were the only ones that had hitherto 
vifited this part of Afia without accident. 

I fhould not be juftificd in witholding from the 
reader fome more particulars relating to Kamtfchat- 
ka, if the works of Coxe.and Steller left any thing to 
be wifhed for*. ‘The editor of Captain Cook’s third 
voyage has drained thefe fources, and in an intereft- 
ing manner recapitulated all that relates to this coun- 
try, on which much more has already been written 
than on many of the interior provinces of Europe, 
the climate and produce of which may and muft be 
compared to the coaft of Labrador, about the ftraits 
of Belle-Ifle, but the men, like the animals, are very 
different. The Kamtfchadales appeared to me to be 
the fame people as thofe of the Bay de Caftries, on the 
coaft of Tartary ; their gentlenefs and probity is the 
fame, and their phyfical form very little different : 
they fhould therefore no more be compared to the 
Efquimaux, than fables to the marten of Canada, 

The bay of Awatfcha is certainly the fineft, 
moft commodious, and fafeft that can poffibly be 


* Some very interefting details, which deferve to be joined to 
thofe of Coxe and Steller, have been furnifhed us by Leffeps, in his 
ren travels from Kamtfchatka to France, See the end of 
vol, ii, é 


met 


Potev and Sti Pati it 
land; which, like an artificial: pe a 
the village a little harbour, inclofoë like à ‘civ 
le, WHetein three or four difmantled fhips 
during the winter. The mouth of this fort 
islef than 25 toifes wide ; than which | 


the fide of this bafin that M. Kafloff 1 prog fes mar 
ing out the plan of a town,: which fhalloneiday 
the capital of Kamtfchatka ; and perhaps the 
centre for commerce with China, Japan, the Phi 
lippines, and America. A vaft lake of foft ra 
- toithe north of the fite of this projected city, «and 

at only three hundred toifes diftarce flow many 
little brooks, the jun&ion of which would facilitate. 
the bringing hither of all the commodities neceffary. 
for'a large eflablifhment. M. Kafloff knew'thewae «7 
lue of thefe advantages; but “ before evérything  ! 
“elfe,” repeated he a hundred times, #° Soi wer ï 4 
have bread and. arms to work with, and. . be 
now very little of cither.” -He neverthelefs gave. 
orders for announcing that an union of foveral i 2 
triéts, with that of St. Peter and St. Pagl, was near. . 
at hand, where he intended to build a ehutoh: ims 
mediately. The Grecian religion has beet iftablidiy: 4 
ed among the Kamtfchadales without ‘per Fu à 
without violence, and with extreme facility. 
vicar of Paratoynka is the fon of a Kam 


2 
| 


ftitut 
onw 
the f 
term 
ing t 
Mare 
fufe, 
derft 
Lefe 
what 
parti 
whic 
twen 
are | 
fourt 
one, 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 189 


and Ruffian ; he utters his prayers and catechifm 
with a good nature well adapted'to the tafte of the 
natives, who repay his cares by offerings or alms, 
but pay no tythes. By the Grecian rites a prieit 
is permitted to marry, whence, it may be conclud- 
ed, that the manners of the clergy are better. 1 
think them very ignorant; and it is impoffible for 
me to fuppofe other than they will long remain fo, 
The clergyman’s wife, daughter, and fifter, were the 
beft dancers of the women, and appeared to enjoy 
the beft ftate of health. ‘This good prieft knew that 
we were thorough catholics, which occafioned us a 
plentiful fprinkling of holy water; and he likewife 
made us kifs the crofs, which was borne by his clerk. 
Thefe ceremonies took place in the middle of the 
village ; his parfonage was under a tent, his altar in 
the open air: but his refidence was generally at Pa- 
ratounka, and he only came to St. Peter and St. 
Paul to pay us a vifit. 

He gave us many particulars of the Kuriles, which 
was likewife in his cure, whither he went once a year. 
The Ruffians have found it more convenient to fub- 
ftitute numbers for the ancient names of thefe iflands, 
vn which authors have widely differed; thus they fay, 
the firft, fecond, &c. to the twenty-firft, which laft 
terminates the pretenfions of the Ruffians. Accord- 
ing to the prieft’s account this might be the ifland of 
Mareckan ; but I am not certain, as he was very dif- 
fufe, notwithftanding we had an interpreter that un- 
derftpod Ruffian as well as French: but M. de 
Lefleps was of opinion that the vicar did not know 
what he meant himfelf. Neverthelefs thefe are the 
particulars, in relating which he did not vary, and 
which may be regarded as nearly certain. Of the 
twenty-one iflands belonging to Ruffia, only four 
are inhabited, which are the firft, fecond, third, and 
fourth : the two latter could be confidered only as 
one, as “he inhabitants of the third fpend all the 

3 winter 


140 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE" [1787; 


winter on the fourth,:and return again to. the third 
in fummer; the others: are abfolutely uninhabited, 
the iflanders only landing there in canoés;to. hunt 
otters and foxes, Many of the latter ifles, are) only 
iflots, or large rocks, where no wood. grows... The 
currents are very ftrong between the. iflands, at the 
mouth of the channels, fome.of which are obftruét- 
ed by rocks level with the fea. ‘The prieft never 
travels from Awatfcha to the Kuriles but in a canoe, 
which the Ruffians call aidar; and he told us he 
was frequently on the point of being caft away, and, 
above all, dying through, hunger, having been driven 
out of fight of land; but is thoroughly convinced 
that his holy water and fiole protected him from 
danger.. The inhabitants, of the four inhabited 
iflands make together not more than 1400: the 

are very hairy, with long beards, and fubfift on feals, 
fifhing and hunting; they have juit been freed for 
ten years from paying the tribute to Ruffia, the ot- 
ters on thofe iflands beco:ring very fearce: they are 
for the reft good, hofpitable, and docile, and have 
all embraced the Chriftian religion. The more fouth- 
ern independent iflanders fometimes crofs the chan- 
nels, which feparate them from the Ruffian Kuriles, 
in canoes, to exchange Japanefe merchandife for 
fkins. Thefe iflands are comprifed in M. Kafloff’s 
government; but from the difficulty of getting 
thither, and their little confequence to Ruffia, he 
did not intend to vifit them ; and though he regret- 
ed having left a chart of thefe iflands behind him at 


Bolcheretfk, he ftill appeared to repofe little confi- : 


dence in it ; he, however, placed fo much in us, that 
we could, in our turn, have wifhed to give him the 


particulars of our voyage: his great delicacy, with 


refpect to this, merits our warmeft praife. 
We gave him, neverthelefs, a flight fketch of our 
expedition ; not failing to inform him that we had 
doubled Cape Horn, vifited the north-weft cpa 
0 


_ for our ¢ 


1787.] 
of Ame: 
whence : 
fuffer ot 


but Tai 


dered fo 
the firit « 
to. forwa 
our your 
M. Kafle 
that I fh 
had I be 
but I the 
by giving 
ing, fron 
where he 
our confi 
gingly te 
camp as 
litate his 
that inft: 
nefs fo t 
than exp 
in the ba 

The c 
think o 
rival on 
moft be 
burnt uf 
of Dece 
toifes al 
with fno 


way. 
calm ob 
dined o 
de Lang 
good fu 
break, t 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 141 
of America, China,’ and the Philippines, from 
whence we arrived at Kamtfchatka.! We did not 
fuffer ourfelves to go further into particulars, 


but I aflured him that if our voyage was or 


dered for publication, I would fend him one :of 
the firft copies. I had already obtained -permiflion 
to. forward my journal to France by M. de Lefieps, 
our young Ruffian interpreter. My confidence in 
M. Kafloff and the Ruffian government. was fuch, 
that I fhould certainly have fuffered ‘no. uneafinefs 
had I been obliged to truft my packets to the poft ; 
but I thought I fhould render my country a fervice 
by giving M. de Leffeps an opportunity of know- 
ing, from his own obfervation, the Ruffian empire, 
where he might very likely one day replace his father, 
our conful-general at Peterfburgh. M. Kafloff obli- 
gingly told me that he accepted him as his aid-de- 
camp as far as Okhotfk, from whence he would faci- 
litate his means of reaching’ Peterfburgh ; and from 
that inftant he became part of his family. Polite- 
nefs fo tender and amiable, is more immediately felt 
than exprefled, making us regret the time we paffed 
in the bay of Awatfcha, while he was at Bolcheretdk. 
The cold weather reminded us that it was time to 
think of being gone; the earth, which on our ar- 
rival on the 7th of September, was covered with the 
moft beautiful verdure, being now as yellow and 
burnt up as it is in the vicinity of Paris at the end 
of December ; and all the mountains, two hundred 
toifes above the furface of the fea, were covered 
with fnow. I ordered every thing to be in readinefs 


for our departure, and on the 29th we got under 


way. M. Kafloff came to take leave of us, and a 
calm obliging us to anchor in the middle of the bay, 
dined on board. I accompanied him afhore, with M. 
de Langle and many officers, when he gave us a 
good fupper and another ball. The morrow, at day- 
break, the wind having fhifted to the north, I made 
the 


242 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787. 


the fignal for weighing. We were hardly under fail 
before we heard a general falute from all the artille- 
ry of St. Peter and St. Paul. This falute I returned, 
which was repeated when we were in the gut, the go- 
vernor having fent us a detachment to do us the 
honours of departure, the moment we fhould pafs 
before the fmall battery, which is to the northward 
of the light-houfe at the egtrance. 

We could not, without being moved, quit M. 
de Lefleps, whofe amiable qualities had endeared 
him to us ; and whom we left in a foreign land, on 
the point of undertaking a journey as long as la- 
borious *. 

‘We carried with us the mioft affectionate remem- 
brance of this country, with a certainty that in no 
age, in no country, were the cares and attentions of 
hofpitality carried to a greater pitch. : 


\ 
* I refer the reader, defirous of more ample details of Kamt- 
{chatka, to Leffeps’ Journal annexed; he wiil there fee and feet 
for the pitiable fituation of that interpreter, in his route from the 
harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul to Paris; and the particular 
pains he was at in the fulfilment of his miffion, and bringing one 


of the moft interefting parts of La Péroufe’s voyage to France.— 
French Editor. © 


tary, 
navig 
trade 
for a 
diffic 
fpoils 
more 
to fu 
to di 
peni 
ther 
firft 
inha 
Ruf 
out 
dale 
bute 
pen 
fox, 
reve 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. - 


CHAP. XXIII. 


SUMMARY PARTICULARS OF KAMTSCHATKA—DIREC-~ 
TIONS FOR SAILING IN AND OUT OF THE BAY OF 
AWATSCHA—WE TRAVERSE IN THE PARALLEL OF 
37° 30’, A SPACE OF 300 LEAGUES, IN SEARCH OF 
LAND, SAID TO BE DISCOVERED BY THE SPANIARDS 
IN 1620—cROsS THE LINE FOR THE THIRD ‘TIME 
—WE MAKE THE ISLANDS OF NAVIGATORS, AFTER 
HAVING PASSED THE ISLAND OF DANGER OF BYRON 
—VISITED BY MANY CANOES-—BARTER WITH THE 
INDIANS, AND ANCHOR AT THE ISLE OF MAOUNA. 


USSIA is not indebted for its difcoveries and 
eftablifhments on the coafis of Eaftern Tar- 

tary, and the pentane of Kamtfchatka, to foreign 
navigators. The Ruffians, as greedy of the fur 
trade as the Spaniards are for gold and filver, have, 
for a long time paft, undertaken the longeft and moft 
difficult journies, to procure themfelves the valuable 
fpoils of fables, foxes, and fea otters; but foldiers, 
more than huntfmen, it was better adapted for them 
to fubje&t the natives to a tribute by inflaving, than 
to divide with them the fatigues of the chace. The 
peninfula of Kamtfchatka was not difcovered by — 
them till about the end of the laft century; their 
firft expedition againft the liberty of its unfortunate 
inhabitants taking place in 1696, The authority of 
Ruffia was not thoroughly acknowledged through- 
out the whole peninfula, until 1711 ; the Kamtfcha- 
dales then accepted the conditions of a trifling tri- 
bute, which is fcarcely fufficient to defray the ex- 
pences of governing it; 300 fables, 200 red or grey 
fox, and a few otter fkins, completing the Ruffian 
revenucs in this part of Afia, where it has 400. fol- 
diers 


144 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787. 


diers, moftly Coffacks or Siberians, and many officers 
who command in the different diftriéts. 

The court of Ruffia has feveral,times changed the 
form of government in this peninfula; that which 
the Englifh found eftablifhed there, in 1778, ex- 
ifted no longer than 1784, at which period Kamtf- 
chatka became a province to the government of 
Okhotfk, which is itfelf dependent on the fovereign 
court. of Irkoutfk. The oftrog of Bolcheretfk, for- 
merly the capital of Kamtfchatka, which was, at the 
arrival of the Englith, the refidence of Major Bchm, 
is now under the command of a ferjeant, of the 
name. of Martinof. M. Kaborof, licutcnant, com- 
manded, as it was faid, at St. Peter and St. Paul; 
Major Elemoff at Nigen Kamtfchatka, or oftrog 
of Lower Kamtfchatka ; Vercknei, or Upper Kamtf- 
chatka, is under the orders of Serjeant Momayeff. 
Thefe different commanders are not accountable onc 
to the other, each communicating directly with the 
governor of Okhotfk, who has eftablifhed an infpect- 
ing officer, with the rank of major, to the particu- 
lar command of the Kamtfchadales, and, without 
doubt, to protect them againft the imaginary vex- 
ations arifing from a military government. 

This firft glimpfe of the commerce of thefe coun- ' 
tries would convey but a.very imperfect idea of the 
- advantages which Ruffia derives from her colonies 
eaft of Afia, fhould the reader be ignorant that jour- 
nies by land have been fucceeded by fea voyages, in 
the eaft of Kamtfchatka, towards the American 
coafts: with thofe of Behring and Tfchirikow, all 
Europe is acquainted. After the names of thefe 
men, rendered famous by their expeditions and con-. 
fequent misfortunes, may be mentioned other na- 
vigators, who have added to the Ruffian poffeffions, 
the Aleutian iflands, the groups more to the eaft, 
known by tke name of Oonolafka, and all the iflands 
fouth of the peninfula, 

Captain 


1787 

Ca 
dition 
but I 
coun! 
fufed 
with 


enou; 
of fut 
Amer 
ous O 

Ru 


poffed 
ping | 
ment 
one h 
mann 
quit ( 
tween 
riles, | 
ifland 
purch 
cient 
equip 
profit 

R 
of Ke 
port 
ftroys 
gove 
capta 
Ruffi 
vifit, 
houfe 


1787, 
fficers 


d the 
which 
By CX- 
amt{- 
ent of 
ercign 
». for- 
at the 
Bchm, 
bf the 
com- 
Paul ; 
oftrog 
Camt{- 
nayeff. 
le onc 
th the 
fpect- 
irticu- 
ithout 
r VEx- 


4 
coun- 


of the 
lonies 
| jour- 
es, In 
erican 
w, all 
thefe 
| con-. 
Tr na- 
lions, 
2 eaft, 
flands 


aptain 


1787.| ROUND THE WORLD.. 145 


Captain Cook’s laft voyage has occafioned expe- 
ditions to be undertaken yet more to the eaft; 
but I learnt at Kamtfchatka, that the natives of thofe 
countries where the Ruffians went, have hitherto re- 
fufed to pay tribute, or even carry on any commerce 
with them. They may probably have been weak 
enough to let them know they had formed the defign 
of fubjugating them, and we know how proud t 
Americans are of their independence, and how jeal- 
ous of their liberty. % 

Ruffia is at a very little expence to extend: her 
poftefiions. Some merchants give orders for equip- 
ping veffels at Okhotfk, where they are built, : at im- 
menfe coft ; they are 45 or 50 feet long, with only 
one maft in the middle, nearly like our cutters, and 
manned by 40 or 50 rather hunters than failors ; they 
quit Okhotik in the month of June, fail generally be- 
tween the point of Lopatka and the firfi of the Ku- 
riles, fteering to the eaftward, and traverfing different 
iflands for three or four years, until they have either 
purchafed ofthe natives, or themfelves killed, a fuffi- 
cient quantity of otters to cover the charges of the 
equipment, and give thofe who fitted them out a 
profit of at leaft cent, per cent. for their advances. 

Ruffia has yet formed no eftablifhment eaftward 
of Kamtithatka: each. fhip makes one in whatever 
port it winters; and, at’ its departure, either de- 
ftroys or gives it fome other fhip of its nation. The 
government of Okhotik takes great care to order the 
captains of thefe cutters to. make the authority of 
Ruffia acknowledged by all the iflanders whom they 
vifit, and puts. on beard of each fhip a kind of cuftom 
houfé officer, charged with impofing and levying a 
tribute for the-crown. I have been told that a mif- 
fion is on the point of leaving Okhotfk to preach 
the gofpel to the fubjugated people, and in fome re- 
fpects compenfate, by fpiritual good, for the tributes 

Vou. II. | L impofed 


146 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787 


impofed on them by the Ruffians, by the law alone 
of the ftrongeft. 

We know that furs fell very advantageoufly at 
Kiatcha, on the frontiers of China and Ruffia; but 
it is only fince the publication of Mr. Coxe’s work, 
that Europe has known the extent of this objcét of 
commerce; the imports and exports of which, an- 
nually amount to near eighteen millions of livres, 
F have been affured that 25 fhips, whofe complements 
amount to about 1000 men, as well Kamtfchadales 
as Ruffians or Coflacks, were this year fent in fearch 
of furs towards the eaft of Kamtfchatka ;: thefe fhips 
muft be fcattered from Cook’s River, to Behring’s 
Ifland: long experience has taught them, that otters 
fcarcely ever frequent more foutherly latitudes than 
60°, which, with refpect to this, determines all the 
expeditions towards the latitude of the peninfula of 
Alafka, or more to the eaft, but never to the ftrait 
of Behring, it being inceflantly obftruéted by ice 
which never diffolves. 

At the return of thefe fhips they fometimes put 
inte the Bay of Awatfcha, but always come back to 
Okhotfk, where thofe who fitted them out, and the 
merchants who trade dircét with the Chinefe on the 
frontiers of the two empires, refide. 

As the ice, at all feafons of the year, is paffable 
for fhips to and from the Bay of ‘Awatfcha, the 
Ruffian navigators put in there, when the time is 
too far advanced for their reaching Okhotfk before 
the end of September: a very important regulation 
of the Emprefs of Ruffia, forbids the navigation of 
the fea of Okhotfk after that period, when the hur- 
ricanes and gufts of wind, which has occafioned 
frequent fhipwrecks in that fea, fet in. 

The ice never extends in the Bay of Awatfcha, 
within three or four hundred toifes from the bank ; 
it often happens during the winter, that the ee 
winds 


1787. 
winds 
the r 
navig 
ter 18 
as at 
the R 
vence 
20th 
carth 
which 
hood 
thefe 


than 1 
{chads 
who v 
tempe 
ftoves. 
We cc 
lieute 
apartt 
are al 
in Eu 
ftoves 
and t 

St. Pe 
went 

low rc 
of dr 

bread 

to an 

fo tha 
take a 
arch i 
water 
caufes 


[1787 


alone 


fly at 
; but 
work, 
ject of 
, an- 
livres, 
pments 
hadales 
fearch 
e fhips 
hring’s 
otters 
es than 
all the 
fula of 
e ftrait 
by ice 


nes put 
back to 
and the 
on the 


‘gap i 
a, the 
time is 
before 
ulation 
ation of 
he hur- 
afioned 


atfcha, 
bank : 
1e land 
winds 


1787. ROUND THE WORLD, 147 


winds difperfe that which obftructs the pañläge into 
the rivers of Paratounka and Awatfcha, when the 
navigation again becomes practicable. As the win- 
ter is, in general, not fo rigorous at Kamtfchatka 
as at, Peterfburgh and many provinces of Ruffia, 
the Ruffians fpeak of it as the French do of Pro- 
vence: but the fnow which furrounded us from the 
20th of September, the hoar froft with which the 
earth was every morning covered, and the verdure 
which was faded as much as it is in the neighbour- 
hood of Paris during the month of January, all 
thefe combinations made us forefee that the rigour 
of the winter, in that part, muft be infupportable to 
the fouthern nations of Europe. _, 

We were, however, in fome refpects, lefs chilly 
than the inhabitants, whether Ruffians or Kamt- 
fchadales, of the oftrog of St. Peter and St. Paul, 
who were clothed with the thickeft furs ; and the 
temperature in whofe ifbas, wherein are always heated 
ftoves, was 28 or 30 degrees above the freezing point. 
We could not take our breath in fo hot an air, and the 
lieutenant took care to open the windows of his 
apartment while we remained in it. Thefe people 
are always in extremes; we know that their cuftom 
in Europe, as well as Afia, is to ufe vapour baths in 
ftoves, from whence they go out covered with fweat, 
and then roll themfelves in the fnow. The oftrog of 
St. Peter had two of thefe public baths, into which I 
went before they were heated: they confift of a very 
low room, in the center of which is raifed an oven 
of dry ftone, which is made hot, like thofe for baking 
bread : its arch is furrounded by feats, placed fimilar 
to an amphitheatre, for thofe who choofe to bathe, 
fo that the heat varies more or lefs, according as they 
take a higher or a lower feat; when the top of the 
arch is made red hot by the fire which is under it, 
water is thrown thereon; this water immediately 
caufes the vapours to rife, and excites the moft abun- 

L2 dant 


Tnt 


PS Nats 
2 


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16 


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én 


ms . LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787. 
dant perfpiration. The Kamtfchadales have adopted 
this cufiom, as well as many others, from their con- 
querors ; and in a very few years, the primitive cha- 
raétenftic, which diftinguifhed them in fo marked a 
‘manner from the Ruffians, ‘will be entitely done 
away. ‘Their population does not now ‘exceed 4000 
“fouls in the whole péninfula, which ‘extends from the 
51ft to the 63d degree, including. many degrecs of 
longitude ; thus ‘we fée that ‘to each individual are 
feveral fquare leagues. They cultivate nothing which 


‘the earth produces ; and their preference of dogs to’ 


rein-deer for LD prevents their rearing either 
‘pigs, fheep, rein-deer, colts, or calves, as thefe ani- 
mals would be devoüred before they could acquire 
Srength ‘fufficient to defend themfelves. Fith is the 
principal nourifhment of their fledge-dogs, which, 
“neverthelefs, travel 24 leagues a day without having 
‘any thing till they come to the end of their jourrier. 
This manner of travelling, as the reader has already 
Seen, is not peculiar to the Kamtfchadales ; the in- 
habitarits of Tchoka, and 'Tartars of Caftries Bay, 
having no other kind of conveyance. We were ex- 
“tremely defirous of knoWing whether the Ruffians 
were at all acquainted with thefe different countries, 
and learnt from M. Kafloff, that the Okhotfk fhips 
: had frequently féen ‘the fouthern point of theïflands, 
‘at the mouth ‘of the river Amur, but ‘never landed 
there, on-account of its being beyond ‘the bounda- 
‘ries of the eftablifhments of the Ruffian’ empire on 


that coaît. 


fhould “be paid to two fhoals lyirig ‘te “the eaft and 
Saat welt 


1787 

weft 

for tl 
ed, | 
open 
the c 
on tl 
from 
lengt 
is eq! 
from 
catin: 
Fr 


(1787. 
adopted 
eir con- 
ive cha- 
arked à 
ly done 
ed 4000 
rom the 
precs of 
dual are 
g which 
dogs to’ 
r either 
efe ani- 
acquire 
th is the 
, which, 
t having 
jourriey. 
| already 
the in- 
es Bay, 
were €x- 
Ruffians 
ountrics, 
tfk fhips 
esflands, 
er fanded 
“bounda- 
mpire on 


blance to 
id, it is a 
ywer, and 
gifts and 
but what 
. ‘Englith 
Attention 
eaft arid 

weit 


1787. ROUND THE WORLD. _ 149 


and found myfelf blown off eighty leagues from the 
coaft. A knowledge of thefe iflands being of tri- 
fling import, I did not attempt to overcome thefe 
obftacles ; but fteered fo as to crofs the parallel of 
87° 30’, in 165° of longitude, where fome geo- 
graphers have placed a large, rich, well populated 
ifland, which they ftate to have been difcovered by 
the Spaniards in 1620. Captain de Vries’s inftruc- 
tions partly aimed at the difcoyery of this ifland ; 
and a memoir, containing fome particulars thereon, 
may be found in the fourth volume of the Acade- 

L3 | mical 


150 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE _ [1787. 
mical Collection, foreign part, . It appeared to me, 
that among the different refearches which were ra- 
ther pointed out than ordered by my inftru&ions, 
that deferved preference. I did not gain. the parallel 
of 37° 30/ till the 14th at midnight, in the courfe 
of which day we faw five or fix little land birds, of 
the linnet Die perch on our rigging; and the 
fame evening perceived two flights of ducks, or cor- 
vorants, birds which never go far from land. The 
weather was very clear, and in each frigate we had 
hands conftantly looking out at the maft-head. A 
confiderable reward was promifed him who fhould firft 
difeover land : this motive of emulation was {carcely 
necefläry, each failor being eager for the honour of 
the firft difcovery of what, according to my promife, 
fhould carry his name, But, notwithftanding the 
certain indications of our being near land, we faw 
nothing, although the horizon was very extenfive. I 
fuppofed that this ifland muft lie to the fouth, and 
the violent Bales which had recently blown from that 
quarter mutt have driven the little birds we faw on 
our rigging northward ; and I confequently ftood to 
the fouth, till midnight, when being precifely, as I 
before ftated, in 37° 30’ N. lat. I ordered the fhip to 
to.be kept eaft under eafy fail, waiting with the moft 
lively impatience for day-light. It came,.and we again 
faw two little birds. _ I continued fteering an eafterly 
courfe; a large turtle pafled the fame day clofe along 
fide. On the morrow, ftill keeping the fame track 
eafiward, we faw a bird much fmaller than the wren 
perched on the main-topfail-brace, and a third flight | 
- of ducks: thus were our hopes, which we never had 
the good fortune to realize, every moment buoyed up*, 

sce? \ We 


* Was La Péroufe ignorant that the parallel of 37 deg. 30 min. 
north had been fruitlefsly traverfed for a fpace of 450 miles to the 
eaft of Japan by the fhip Kaftricum ? Or was he afraid of depart- 
ing from hjs inftruétions, and the intimation given him in the 

9 geographical 


[1787. 
to me, 
Were ra- 
ruétions, 
> parallel 
e courfe 
birds, of 

and the 
, Or COr- 
d. The 
we had 
ead. A 
ould firft 

{carcely 
onour of 
promife, 
ding the 

we. faw 
nfive. J 
ith, and 
rom that 
> faw on 
ftood to 
ely, as I 
e fhip to 
the moft 
we again 
| eafterly 
fe along 
ne track 
the wren 


rd flight 


ever had 
sy We 


g. 30 min. 
iles to the 
of depart- 
im in the 
ographical 


1987.) ROUND THE WORLD. : 151 


. We fuftained, during this fearch, a real misfortune: 
afailor on board the Aftrolabe, furling the mizen- 
top-gallant-fail, fell into the fea; whether he was hurt 
in his fall, or whether he could not fwim, he ‘was no 
moe feen, and all our endeavours to fave him were 
ineffectual. The indications of land continued the 
18th and igth, although we had made much ‘way to: 


_ the eaftward, fecing on both thefe days flights of: 


ducks, or other land birds: one foldier pretended 
to have’ feen bits of fea-weed (goémon) pafs' by ; 
but this fact being unfupported by other evidence, 
we unanimoufly rejected his account, preferving, ne- 
verthelefs, the ftrongeft hopes. of the approaching 
difcovery of land. Hardly had we attained 175° E. 
long. when all thefe figns ceafed; I however con- 
tinued the fame courfe until the 22d at noon; but at: ’ 
this time. the. time-piece, No. 19, pointing out that’ 
I was in 20’ long. beyond 180° E. of Paris, the 
limits fixed for my refearch; I altered my. courfe 
foutherly, to find more tranquil feas: Since our 
departure from Kamtfchatka, our navigation had al- - 
ways been in the midft of the heavieft fwell ; at one 
time a fea carried away_our jolly boat, lafhcd to the 
gang-way, and we fhippéd more than: a. hundred 
barrels of water. Thefe difficulties would not 
have been worth remarking had we been more for- 
tunate in meeting with the ifland, the fearch for 
which coft us fo much fatigue, and. which is cer- 
tainly in the vicinity of the courfe we followed: the 
figns of land were too frequent and remarkable to 


geographical note in the firft volume ? Whatever might be the mo- 
tive which determined him, the frequent indications navigators have 
bad of land, makes it much to be regretted that La Péroufe did not 
refolve to purfue the 37th or 38th parallel. The lands difcovered 
by the ancients being almoft wholly retrieved in our time, this 
ifland will certainly become an object for frefh refearches; and 
there is room for hoping that it will be found by running along 
the parallel of 36 deg. 30 min.—French Editor, tata 


La | leave 


152 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787 
leave @ doubt of this on our minds. I was led to be. 
lieve that we purfued a too northerly track ; and had 
Lthe fame fearch to make over again, I would keep 
in the parallel of 35° from 160° to 170° long. It 
is in this {pace that we faw moft land birds, which 
appeared to have come from the fouth, and been 
_ driven. by ‘the violence of the winds, which blew 
ftom that quarter, The further object of my voy- 
‘age did not leave me time to learn the truth of 
this conjecture, by running as far to the weft as we 
had juft done to the eaft : the winds, which almoft 
‘inceflantly blew from the weft, would not have per- 
mitted me to make in two months the run I had 
made in eight days. | 
fhaped my courfe towards the fouthern hemi- 
{phere, as the vaft field for difcoveries, where the 
track of Quiros, Mendana, Tafman, &c. are, in every 
fenfe, crofied by thofe of modern navigators, each of 
whom: has:added fome new iflands to thofe already 
known, but af which the curiofity of Europeans de- 
fired more cirgumftantial details than are to be found 
in the: narratives of former navigators. We know 
that in this vaft portion of the great equatorial ocean, 
there exifis a zone from about 12° to 15° N, and §, 
and 140° E. and W. ftrewed with iflands, which are 
on the terrefirial what the milky way is on the ce- 
leftial, globe, The language and the manners of 
the inhabitants are no longer unknown to us; and 
the obfervations of later circumnavigators can give na 
ground for conjectyres on the probable origin of thefe 
people, which may be attributed to the Malays, as 
thofe of the different colonies on the coafts of Spain 
and Africa are to the Phenicians. 
_ In this archipelago my inftruétions ordered me tq 
navigate during the third year of our expedition, 
the wefiern: and fouthern part of New Caledo- 
nia, af which the eaftcrn coaft was difcovered by 
Captain Cook, in his fecond voyage; the i 
bal ET SES, ifles 


ruth of 
‘as we 
almoft 
ve per- 
| I had 


hemi- 
ere the 
n every 
each of 
already 
ans de- 
e found 

know 

ocean, 
, and §, 
ich are 
the ce- 
ners of 
1s; and 
give na 
of thefe 
lays, as 
bf Spain 


edition, 
aledo- 
red by 
oythern 
“ifles 


787.1 ROUND THE WORLD. 153 
les of the archipelago of Arfacides, the northern 
of which Surville found out; the fouthern part of 
the land of Louifiade, which Bougainville could not 
explore, but on the fouth-eaft of which he had firft 
ranged along. The attention of Government was 
particularly fixed on thefe geographical points, and I 
was enjained to lay down their limits, and accurately 
determine their latitude and longitude. The Friend- , 
ly and Society Iflands, the New Hebrides, &c. were 
known, and could no longer intereft European cu- 
riofity ; but offering the refources of provifions, [ 


had the choice of putting in there or not, as I might 


find it neceffary, reafonably prefumirig, that on quit- 
ting Kamtfchatka, I fhould have very little frefh 
rovifions, fo neceflary for the prefervation of the ~ 
ealth of the failors. dina 
It was not poffible for me to advance faft enough 
to the fouth, to avoid a gale of wind which blew from 
that quarter on ‘the 23d of October: the fea was | 
extremely high, and we were obliged to lie to: alt 
night, under the forefail: the winds were very 
changeable, and the fea rough as far as the 30th de: 
gree of latitude, which parallel we reached on the 
20th October. Our ‘health was in general affected, 
by fo rapid a tranfition from cold to the greateft heat ; 
but the inconveniences we felt from it were fo tri- 
fling, that none of us was under the neceffity of keep- 


ing his bed. 


- The 1ft November, in 269 277 N. lat. and W. 
long. 175° 38’, we faw a great number of birds, 
among which were curlews and plovers, two fpecies 
that never fly far from land. The weather was cloudy, 
with fqualls s but it cleared up fucceffively in every 
part of the horizon except the fouth, where large 
clouds remained conftantly fixed, which made me 
believe there was land in that quarter, This courfe 
we followed : the 2d, 3d and 4th, we continued to 
fee birds; by degrees the figns of land difappear- 
ed, but it is more than probable we pafled by tome 

ih | ifland 


154 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
ifland or fhoal, which we did not get fight of, and 
which chance will probably prefent to the view. of 
another navigator. We then began to enjoy.a ferene 
fky, and it was at laft, poflible for us to find the ‘lon. 
gitude, by lunar obfervations, we had not before been 
enabled to take fince we had left Kamtfchatka : the 
longitude, by obfervation, differed from that given by 
our time-piece, No. 19, being one degree more to the 
weft. We caught fome doradoes, and two fharks, 
which were delicious food to us, who were all reduced 
to falt pork, and began to feel the influence of thefe 
burning climates. We repeated our Junar obferva- 
tions the following days, and always found the fame 
difference, We had at laft arrived at the tropic ; 
the weather became. finer, and our horizon was of 
greater extent: we {till perceived no land, but fome 
land birds every day, which are never met with far 
from it. The 4th November we were in 23° 40’ N. 
lat. and 175° 58’ 47" W. long., according to the mean 
of feveral fets of obfervations taken the fame day. 
We caught a golden plover, which was yet tolerably 
fat, and could. not. have been wandering at fea for 
any length of time. On the 5th we croffed the line 
of our traft from Monterey to Macao; on the 6th, 
that of Captain Clerke from the Sandwich Iflands ta 
Kamtfchatka; the: birds had. entirely difappeared. 
Our veffels were extremely labourfome on account of 
a heavy {well from the eaft, which like that from the 
weft in the Atlantie Ocean, conftantly prevails in this 
vaft fea; we met with neither bonetas nor doradoes, 
and hardly faw any flying fifh ; our frefh provifions 
were abfolutely confumed, and we had reckoned too 
much upon fith to foften the aufterity of our allowance. 
The oth we paffed the fouthern point of the fhoal of 
the Villa. Lobos, according to its fituation, on the 
charts which M. de Fleurieu had tranfmitted to me. 
1 fo regulated my rate of failing as to come into its 
latitude in the day time, but as we perceived neitber 

| birds 


[1787. 
f, and 
lew. of 
ferene 
€ ‘lon- 
e been 
a: the 
iven by 
to the 
fharks, 
educed 
f thefe 
bferva- 
e fame 
ropic s 
was of 
it fome 
vith far 
AO’ N. 
e mean 
ne day, 
lerably 
fea for 
he line 
he 6th, 
ands ta 
peared, 
ount of 
om the 
in this 
radoes, 
vifions 
ed too 
wance.: 
hoal of 
on the 
to me. 
into its 
peitber 

birds 


/ 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD, : 155 


birds nor fea-weeds, I am inclined to beliéve, that if 
fuch a fhoal is in exiftence, a more weftern pofition 
muft be affigned to it, the Spaniards having always 
placed their difcoveries in the great ocean, too near 
the coafts of America, The fea fell a little at 
this time, and the breezes were more moderate ; but 
the fky Was covered with thick clouds, and we. had 
hardly attained the 10th degree of north latitude, 
when we experienced an almoft continued rain, at 
lcaft during the day, forthe nights were tolerably 
fine. The heat was fuffocating, and the hygrometer 
never denoted more humidity fince we left Europe ; 
we breathed a confined air, which, joined to our bad 
food, diminifhed our firength, and would have rendered 
us almoft incapable of hard labour, if circumftances 
had required it. I redoubled my cares to preferve the 
health of my crew at this crifis, brought on by a too 
fudden tranfition from cold to heat and moifture. I 
daily diftributed coffee for breakfaft, and ordered the 
between-decks to be kept well aired and dried; the 
rain water ferved for wafhing the failors’ fhirts, and 
we thus profited by the intemperature of the climate 
we were obliged to pafs through, and the influence 
of which I was more afraid of than that of the higheft 
latitudes we had traverfed: ‘The 6th of November, 
we for the firft time. took eight bonetas, which af- 
forded the whole fhip’s company a good meal, as well 
as the officers, who like myfelf had now no other 
than the fhip provifions. Thefe rains, ftorms,. and 
heavy fwells, ceafed about the 15th, when we 
were in 5 degrees N. latitude; we then enjoyed the 
moft ferene weather : our horizon being of the wideft 
extent, at fun-fet, made our night’s run perfectly 
fafe ; befides the air was fo clear, and the fky fo 
ferene, that a brightnefs fhone from it, by the aid 
of which we might have perceived any dangers, 
the fame as in broad day light. This fine :wea- 
ther accompanied us from our crofling the equa- 

| tor, 


15û LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 
tor, the 21ft November, for the third time fince 
leaving Breft : we were three times at the diftance of 
about 60° from it north or fouth ; and the further plan 
of our voyage was not to bring us towards the north- 
.. een-hemifphere till we were in the Atlantic Occan, 
on our return ta Europe. The monotony of this 
long paffage was not at all interrupted; our track 
was nearly parallel with that of the preceding year, 
in going from Eafter Ifland to the Sandwich Iflands, 
in which courfe we were inceffantly furrounded with 
birds. and bonetas, which furnifhed us with abun- 
dance of healthy nourifhment ; while here, on the 
contrary, à vaft folitude reigned around, the air and 
the water. of this part of the globe being equally 
without inhabitants, We however caught, on the 
23d, two fharks, which afforded the fhip's company 
two meals, and we on the fame day killed a curlew 


very lean, and which appeared greatly fatigued ; we 
thought it might have come from the Duke of York's 
Eflands, about 100 leagues off ; it was haihed and eat 


at my table, and was hardly better than the fharks. In 
proportion aswe neared the fouthern hemifphere, nod- 
dies, man-of-war ‘birds, fea fwallows, and tropic birds, 
hovered round the fhips; wetook them as the fore- 
runners of fome ifland, which we were very. impa- 
tient to fall.in with, being difcontented at the fatality 
which: attended us fince our departure from Kamtf- 
chatka, in making a long run without the leaft difco. 
very. The quantity of thefe birds became innumer- 
able when we were in 4° 8. lat., which made us every 
inftant expect fome land ; but though the horizon was 
of a moft furprifing extent, we faw none, indeed we 
made very little way, “The breezes fell when in 2° 
S: lat. and were fucceeded by light airs from the N. ta 
W.N. W., with which £ made a little eafting, lefi I 
_ fhould be carried to leeward of the Friendly Iflands. 
While thefe calms lafted we caught fome fharks, which 
we preferred to falt meat, and fome fea fowl, which 

F- we 


[1787. 
1e fince 
ance of 
er plan 
> north- 
Ocean, 
of this 
iy track 
1g year, 
Iflands, 
ed with 
\ abun- 
on the 
air and 
equally 
on the 
ompany 
: curlew 
ed ; we 
f York's 
and eat 
rks. In 
re, nod- 
ic birds, 
he fore- 
ry. impa- 
fatality 
Kamtf- 
difco: 
numer- 
us every 
zon was 
deed we 
en in 2° 
ne N. to 
g, lefil 
Iflands, 
s, which 
1, which 
Ws 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 157 

we eat in a hath, and although very ‘ean, they tafted 

and fmelt intolerably of fith, yet in the prefent 

dearth of frefh provifions, we thought them almoft 
equal to woodcocks. The black, or white gulls 
are peculiar to the South Seas, and I never faw any 

in the Atlantic: we killed many of them, as well as 
noddies and man-of-war birds; the latter hovered.in 

fuch numbers over the fhips in the night time, that we 
were almoft ftunned with their noife, and could hard- 

ly hold a converfation on the quarter deck: our 
fport, which we were pretty fortunate im, revenged 

their chattering, and furnifhed us with palatable food; 

but they difappeared when we paffed the ‘fixth de- 
grec. The winds from N. W. to W. which ‘com- 
menced about 3° 'S. lat. but were very faint, with clear 
weather, then conftantly prevailed till we were in Jat. 

12°, ‘ A heavy fwell from the weft, rendered. our na- 
vigation. very laborious: our running rigging, rotted 
by the conftant ‘humidity on the ‘coaft of Tartary, 
was breaking every inftant; we did not replace it 
till the laft extremity, for fear of having none left. 
Squalls, tempefts, and rain, continually accompanied 
‘us till in 10° 50’ which we reached-on the 2d: De- 
cember. The wind which remained fteady at W., 
becoming ‘more moderate, and the {ky more bright, 
we took lunar obfervations, in order to rectify the 
crror of our time-keepers, which feemed to have loft 
five minutes of time, by which they gave the longi- 
tude 1° 15’ too much eaft, fince our departure from 
Kamtfchatka. We pafied, according to the longi- 
tude obtained by the diftance of the'maon ‘from the 
fun, the refult of which was 170° 7’ W., precifelyon 
the fpot-affigned by Byron to’ his ‘les of Danger, for 
we were in their latitude, and perceiving no ‘land, ner 
any trace of being near any, it is clear that a different 
longitude mutt be given'them. ‘Commodore‘Byron, 
in his navigation, had gone bythe erroncous method 
of a dead'reckoning. The'next day, the 3d Decem- 
ber, we ‘were ‘in 110.34 37/5. ht. and ‘1709 7/4/ 


158 LA PEROUSB’S VOYAGE L1787. 


W. long. by our lunar obfervations, exaéily in the 
fame parallel as the ifland of the Handfome Nation of 
Quiros, and one de farther to the eaft. I fhould 
have preferred fianding fome degrees to the weft, for 
the fake of meeting with it, but the winds blew di- 
rectly from that quarter: and the fituation of the 
ifland was too uncertain to feck it by plying to wind. 
ward. I therefore thought to make the beft of thefe 
winds to gain the point of Bougainville’s Navigators’ 
Iflands, which are a French difcovery, and where we 
might fucced in finding fome refrefhments, of which 
we were much in want. 

The moft eafterly ifland of that archipelago came 
in fight the 6th of December, at three o'clock in the 
afternoon we made fail till eleven to. approach it, 
when we flood off and on for the reft of the night. 
As I propofed coming to there, if there -was anchor- 
ing ground, I entered the channel between the great 
and {mall ifland, which Bougainville left to the fouth. 
It is narrow, being hardly a league in width, but it 
appeared fafe and free from fhoals. We were in 
the channel at noon, when we obferved, at a mile 
from the coaft, in lat. 14° 7’S.; the fouth point of 
one of thefe iflands bearing S. 36°. W. : ‘fo that the 
fouthern point of this ifland:is fituated in 14° 8/S, 
lat, | 

We faw no canoes till we arrived in the channel. 
We had perceived habitations when to windward 
of the ifland, and a confiderable group of Indians, 
‘feated in a circle under cocoa-nut trees, feemed 
to enjoy, without emotion, the fpeétacle which the 
fight of our frigates afforded; they neither launched 
a canoe, nor followed us along the fhore. This land, 
about two hundred toifes in height, is. very fteep, 
and covered to its fummit with lofty trees, among 
which we diftinguifhed many cocoa-palms, . The 
houfes are built about half way down, by which 
means thefe iflanders. breathe a more temperate air. 
We remarked near us fome ground newly tape NPs 

- where 


1787 
whet 
but : 
not : 
My 
grot 
coaft 
likev 
tache 
from 
veral 
ance 
barte 
only 
linule 
Sout! 
recei' 
retur 
Thef 
glafs 
bein 2 
frequ 
hund 
thoug 
our c 
to fi 
repre 
ing, d 
mete 
‘wind 
by re 
vain 
ed o 
alon 4 
near! 
are 
toifes 
iflot, 


[3797. 
y in the 
ation of 
| fhould 
veft, for 
slew di- 

of the 
o wind. 
of thefe 
igators’ 
here we 


f which 


oO came 
cin the 
oach it, 
e night. 
anchor- 
he great 
e fouth. 
, but it 
were in 
; a mile 
point of 
hat the 
1° 8’S. 


hannel. 
indward 
Indians, 
feemed 


1787.) ‘ROUND THE WORLD. 150 


where probably potatoes or yams had been planted’: 
but the ifland, taking it altogether, appeared to be 
not very fertile, and in any other part of the South 
Sea, I fhould ‘have believed it to be uninhabited. 
My error in this refpe€t would have been the more 

rofs, as even two little iflands, forming the weftern 
coaft of the channel through which we pafféd, have — 
likewife their inhabitants, We faw five canoes de- 
tached, that formed a junction with eleven others 
from the eaftern ifland, which, after having gone fe- 
veral times round our two fhips, with an appear- 
ance of miftruft, at Jaft ventured to approach, and 
barter with us, but to fo trifling an extent, that we 
only obtained twenty cocoa-nuts, and two blue gal- 
linules. Thefe iflanders were, like all thofe of the 
South Sea, treacherous in their commerce; and after 
receiving the price of their nuts before hand, rarely 
returned with the articles agreed for in exchange. 
Thefe thefts indeed were of little importance, a few 
glafs beads, necklaces, with little flips of red cloth, 
being fcarcely worth the trouble of reclaiming. We 
frequently founded in the channel with a line of one . 
hundred fathoms, which did not reach the bottom, 
though within a mile of the fhore. We continued 
our courfe to double a point, behind which we hoped 
to find fhelter ; but the ifland was not near the width 
reprefented by M. de Bougainville’s chart, terminat- 
ing, on the contrary, in a point, and its greateft dia- 
meter not exceeding a league. We found the eaft 


wind blowing right on this coaft, which is guarded 


by reefs, and we fatisfied ourfelves that it would be 
vain to feek further for anchorage. We then direct 
ed our courfe out of the channel, intending to run 
along the two weftern iflands, which are together 
nearly as confiderable as the moft eaftern one: they 
are feparated by a channel lefs than one hundred 
toifes wide ; and at this weftern extremity is feen an 
iflot, which, but' for its being covered with trees, I 

fhould 


160 LA térouse's VOYAGE [i#87, 
fhould have-called a large rock. Before doubling the 
two fouthern points of the channel, we were com. 
pletely becalmed, and'buffettéd about bya heavy fwell, 
which made me fearful of running on board the 
Aftrolabe : happily fome light airs of wind foon ex- 
tricated us from this difagreeable fituation, which 
prevented us from attending to the harangue of an 
old Indian, who held a branch of ava in his hand, 
and delivered a difcourfe of tolerable length. This 
we knew, from the peruïal of different voyages, was 
a fign of peace, and throwing him fome ftuffs, we 
anfwered him by the word tayo, which, in the lan- 
guage of many of the South Sea Iflands, means friend; 
but we were not hitherto fufficicntly in practice to un- 
derfiand and pronounce diftinétly the different words 
extracted from the vocabulary of Cook’s voyages. 
When we had at leigth caught the breeze, we 
made failand ftood away from the coaft, to get out,of 
reach of the calms. All the canoes then came along. 
fide : they, in general, failed tolerably well, but went 
very indifferently with paddles. Thefe boats would 
. have been ufelefs to people lefs expert in fwimming, 
. as they overfet every inftant. But this accident fur- 
prifes and difturbs them lefs than letting a hat fall 
does us. They raife the canoe upon their fhoulders, 
and, after having emptied it of the water, they again 
get into it, very fure of having to reeommence the 
fame operation within half an hour afterwards, the 
equilibrium being almoft as difficult to preferve in 
thefe ticklifh barks, as that of our tumblersis on their 
ropes. Thefe Iflanders are generally tall, their me- 
dium ftature being about five feet feven or eight 
inches : the colour of their {kin is nearly like that of 


the Algerines, or other people on the coaftiof Barbary: 


their ‘hair: is long, and turned up to the top of the 
head: their phyfiognomy.appeared by no means agree- 
abie. I faw only two women, whofe features were 
not more delicate. The youngeft, whom I bia 

guefs 


curic 


ing 


acce 


prefe 
the 
fold. 
fimi 
V 


ges, was 
uffs, we 
the lan- 
nS friend; 
ce to un- 
nt words 
res, 

ZE, We 
et. outiof 
e along- 
put went 
ts would 
imming, 
lent fur- 
. hat fall 
10ulders, 
ey again 
ence the 
irds, the 
aferve in 
on their 
heir me- 
or eight 
e that of 


Barbary: . 


p of the 
as agree- 
nes. Were 
I might 

guefs 


1787:| ROUND THE WORLD. : _ 161 
guefsito be about 1.8,had on, oneleg,a.hideous and dif- 
gufting.ulcer. Manyof thefe iflanders. h:4 large fores, 
which, itis poffible, might be a commencement of le- 
profy, for I. remarked ;two men amongft them, whofe 
ulcerated,;legs, as thick round,as their bay, left no 
doubt. as to the nature oftheir malady. They ap- 
proached us with fear, unarmed, and every thing be- 
{peaks them as peaceable. as thofe of the Society, or 
Friendly .Iflands.. We thought they were gone to 


 return/no,more; .our.regret for which, from. their ap- 


parent: poverty, was but little: ‘but the. breeze having 
much abated in the,afternoon, came the fame canoes, 
accompanied by many. others, two leagues into,the 
offing, to propofe, M they had gone on 
fhore after quitting us, and returned, rather more ich. 
ly laden than the firft time.. At this renewal of traffic, 
we obtained. from the Iflanders many curiofities, rela- 
tive to their drefs, five fowls, ten gallinules, a fmall 
pig, and: the moft beautiful turtle-dove we .had ever 
teen. It was white, its head-of the fineft violet, green 
wings, and breaft fpeckled with fmall red and ,white 
fpots, like the leaves. of the anemony. This little crea- 
ture,was quite tame, eating out of the hand or,moyth; 
but it:was not probable. that. it could be, broyght 
alive:to Europe : infact, its death only permitted us 
to preferve its plumage, which foon loft all its bright- 
nefs,, -As the Aftrolabe had always been a-head of us 
in. this route, the. canoes had all commenced, their 


traffick with M. de Langle, who had purchafed of 


the Indians two dogs, which we found very good. 
Although the canoes of thefe Iflanders are all of 
curious confiruction, and prove their fkill in work- 
ing in wood, we could. never prevail upon them to 
accept of our; hatchets, or any iron inftrument ; they 
preferred glafs beads, which. could be of no ufe to 
them, to all the.iron.and ftuffs we could offer. They 
fold us. a wooden, veflel full of cocoa-nut oil :_it.was 
fimilar: in fhape to .onc.of .our pipkins, and an. Euro- 
Vox. IT, M pean 


162 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE. [1787: 
pean workman would never believe that it could have 
been made otherwife than by a turning lathe. Their 
_ropes are round, and twifted like our watch-chains ; 
their mats are very fine, but their: ftuffs inferior in 
colour and weft to thofe of the Eafter and Sand- 
wich Iflands. It appeared, befides, that they were 
uncommon, for all the Iflanders were completely 
naked, and they fold us only two pieces. As we 
were fure of meeting with an iffand of greater mag- 
nitude. more to the weft, where we flattered: our- 
felves we fhould at leaft find fome fhelter, though 
there even fhould be no harbour, we prepared to 
make more extenfive obfervations after our arrival 
in that ifland, which, according to M. de Bougain- 
ville’s plan, could only be divided from the laft iflot, 
which we were a-breaft of at night-fall, by a channel 
eight leagues wide. I ftood only three or four 
leagues to the weftward after fun-fet, and pañled the 
reft of the night ftanding off and on,- under eafy 
fail. I was much farprifed when day broke to fee no 
land to leeward, nor did I get fight of it till fix o'clock 
in.the morning, from the channel being infinitely 
wider than the one laid down in the chart whereb 
I fteered! It were much to be wifhed, that the 
charts of a voyage, which, for accuracy of ob- 
fervation, and extent and importance of difcove- — 
‘ties, is only fecond to thofe of Captain Cook: it 
is much to be wifhed, I fay, that the particular 
draughts had been made with more care, and on a 

larger fcale.. CE 
: We did not gain the north eafterly point of 
Maouna Ifland until five o’clock in the evening. 
‘It being my attention to look for an anchorage there, 
I made a fignal to the Aftrolabe to haul to the wind, 
that we might ftand to and fro to windward ‘of the 
ifland, during the night, and have all the following 
day to explore it in the moft trifling particulars. Al- 
though 'three leagues from the fhore, three or four 
‘ | canoes 


(1787: 
ild have 
.. Their 
chains ; 
ferior in 
d Sand- 
ey were 
npletely 

As we 
er mag- 
ed. our- 
though 
Jared to 
r arrival 
jougain- 
aft iflot, 
channel 
or four 
fied the 
Jer eafy 
© fee no 
o'clock 
nfinitely 
whereby 
hat the 
of ob- 


look : it 
articular 
id on a 


point of 
evening. 
e there, 
1e wind, 
“of the 
cope à 
rs. Al- 
or four 
canoes 


difcove- | 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD, 163 


canoes came on board the fame En à to bring us 
pigs and fruit in éxchange for glafs beads, which gave 
us the higheft opinion of the richnefs of that ifland.. 
On the morning of the oth, I approached the 
land, and ran along the coaft, at half a league dif- 
tant. It is furrounded by a reef of coral, on which 
the fea broke with great force; but this reef almoft 
joined the fhore, and the coaft formed feveral little 
coves, in front of which were inlets where canoes’ 
could pafs, and probably our barges and long-boats. 
At the bottom of each of thefe creeks we faw nu- 
merous villages, whence came out canoes without 
end, laden with pigs, cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, in 
exchange for which we gave glafs trinkets.) So great 
an abundance increafed my defire of coming to an 
anchor there; befides, we faw water rolling in cafcades 
from the tops of the mountains to the foot of the 
villages. So many advantages did not make me very 
difficult in the cheice of an anchoring place. I got 
as near the coaft as poflible ; and at. four o'clock 
having found, at a mile from the fhore, and in thirty 
fathoms water, a bed of broken: fhells and very little 
coral, we let go the anchor, but were tofled about by 
a very heavy fwell, which fet towards the land, not- 
withftanding the wind blew off fhore. We imme- 
diately hoifted out our boats, and the fame day M. 
de Langle and feveral officers, with three armed’ boats 
from the two frigates, went on fhore at the village, 
where they were received in the moft amicable man- 
ner, Night coming on when they landed on. the 
beach, the Indians lighted a great fire to make the 
landing place clear: they brought birds, pigs, and 
fruit. After Raying an hour our boats returned. 
Every one feemed fatisfied with this reception, and 
the only thing we regretted was being anchored in fo 
bad a road-ftead, where the frigates rolled as if in 
the open fea, Although fheltered from the eafterly 
wind, the calm ‘was fufficient to expofe us to the 
M 2 greateft 


. 164 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 
greateft danger if our cables fhould part’; andthe 
FnpofGibility of getting wnder way, left us no refource 

ainft à rather men | N. W: breeze. “We knew by 
the accounts’ ofithofe navigators who had preceded 
ais, that: the trade winds were by no means ‘conftant 
dn thefedlatrtudes; that it is almoft as ‘eafy to get to 
the caftward, as tothe weft, which facilitates ‘the long 
runs thefe nations make to the leeward; burfelves 
having ‘experienced this inconftancy of the winds, | 
the wefterly breezes having only'‘left usin 12°, Thefe 
reflections made me pafs'the night the more reftlefsly, 
sa ftorm was rifing towards the north; from whence 
the ‘winds ‘blow with great violence—happily the 
‘land breeze ‘prevailed. 


"m1 000 © Came 


CHAP. XXIV. 


MANNERS, DRESS, ARTS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE ISLAN- 
‘ UDERS OF MAOUNA—“CONTRAST OF THIS SMILING 
AND FERTILE COUNTRY WITH THE PEROCITY OF 
‘ETS INHABITANTS=—THE SWELL BECOMING VERY 
HEAVY, COMPELS Us TO GET UNDER WAY—M. DE 
“LANGLE WANTING TO PROCURE WATER, LANDS 
WITH FOUR ARMED BOATS—HE IS Is ASSASSINATED 
—-ELEVEN PERSONS OF THE TWO SHIP'S COMPA- 
NIES EXPERIENCE THE SAME FATE—CIRCUMSTAN- 
TIAL NARRATIVE OF THIS EVENT. 


N the morrow, the rifing of the fun announced 

y afine day, of which I refolved to take advan- 
tage to reconnoitre the country, obferve the inhabi- 
tants in their own huts, fill water, and afterwards 
get: under way, prudence: not. permitting me: to pais 
a fecond ; night at this anchorage, which M: de 
oLangle had dlikewife found’ too dangerous for a 
oe ; : longer 


[1787 
ind ‘the 
efource 
new by 
receded 
onftant 
) get to 
he'long 
urfelves 


. Winds, | 


, Thefe 
sfllefsly, 
whence 
pily the 


E ISLAN- 
SMILING 
ITY OF 
G VERY 
—M. DE 

LANDS 
SINATED 
COMPA- 
MSTAN- 


nounced 
e advan- 
> inhabi- 
terwards 
> to pals 

M: de 
ns for a 
longer 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 265 
longer ftay, wherefore it was agreed that we-fhould 
weigh in the afternoon, and that the morning, which 
was very fine, fhould be partly employed in treating 


for fruit and pigs. Ever fince day-break had: the 


iflanders brought round the two frigates a hundred 
canoes. full of different provifions, for which they 
would receive nothing but beads in exchange: they 
were to them the moft valuable Hamon, . Our 
hatchets, ftuffs, and other articles of commerce, 
they regarded with contempt. While one part of — 
the crew was taken up with keeping the Indians. to- 
rether, and carrying on: commerce with them, the 
remainder filled the long-boats and barges with 
empty cafks, to go and procure water. ur twa 
armed, boats, mt by Mefiis. de Clonard 
and Collinet; thofe of the Aftrolabe by Meñis. 
Monti and Bellegarde, : fet off with this view, at five 
o'clock in the morning, for a bay at the diftance of 
about a league, and rather to windward ; a fituation 
the more commodious, as our boats could fail back 
with a free wind. I followed very clofe Meñis. 
de Clonard and Monti in my bifcay yawl, and got 
afhore at the fame time as them. : Unfortunately 
M. de Lahgle would go in his jolly-boat to a fe- 
cond creek, about a league from our watering 
place; and this tour, from whence he returned en- 
chanted with the beauty of the village which he had 
vifited, was, as will be feen, the caufe of our mis- 
fortunes. The creek, towards which our long-boats 
ftcered, was large and convenient; the long-boats 
and barges there remained afloat at low water, within 
half a piftol-fhot from the beach ; the water was fine, 
and eafy of accefs. Meflis. de Clonard and Monti 
kept the beft order there. A line of foldiers was 
pofted between the beach and the Indians, who were 
in number about two hundred, among whom were 
many women and children. We got them all to fit 
down under fome cocoa-palms, at only about eight 

- M3 , toifes 


16  . LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787. 
toifes from our long-boats. Each had by him fome 
fowls, pigs, parroquets, pigeons, and fruit, which alf 
wanting to difpofe of at the fame time, created fome 
confufion. The women, fome of whom were very 
pretty, offered, with their fruit and fowls, their fa- 


vours to all fuch as had beads to give in return. - 


They foon attempted to break through the line of 
foldiers, who gave them too weak a repulfe to ftop 
them. Their manners were foft, lively, and engaging. 
Europeans who have been round the world, parti- 
cularly Frenchmen, have no arms againft fuch kind 
of attacks: they fucceeded, without much trouble, 
in breaking through the ranks. The men next came 
near, and the confufion increafed; but fome In- 
dians, whom we took for Chiefs, made their appear- 
ance, armed with clubs, and order was re-eftablith- 
ed ; every one returned to his poft, and the traffic 
recommenced, to the great fatisfaction of both 
buyers and fellers. A circumftance had, however, 
occurred in our long-boat, which was a real act of 
hoftility, and which I would fain reprefs without 
bloodfhed. An Indian had. got upon the ftern of 
our boat, when, catching hold of a mallet, he gave 
one of our failors feveral hard blows on the arms 
and back. I ordered four of the ftrongeft marines 
to lay hold of him, and fling him into the fea, 
which they immediately did. ‘The other iflanders 
appeared: to difapprove of their countryman’s con- 
duct, and this fcuffle paffed off without any other 
confequences. Perhaps an example of feverity was 
neceflary to make a ftronger impreffion on thefe 


. people, and let them know what power our arms had. 


over their individual ftrength : for their height, about 
five feet ten inches, their limbs ftrongly formed, and 
‘ in the moft coloffal proportions, gave them an idea 
of their own fuperiority, which did not render us 
very formidable in their eyes; but having very 
little time to ftay among thefe iflanders, I did _ 
thin 


- on tk 


whic 
mufk 
This 
fear, 
fentit 
man, 
tible. 

W 
trang 
thou 


the fi 


midfi 
were 
place 
fatho 
vaft 
ful ve 
a de 


men 
houf 


whic 
from 
huts, 


1787. 
1 fome 
ich all 
| fome 


e very 
eir fa- 


‘eturn. - 


line of 
o ftop 
aging. 
parti- 
h kind 
rouble, 
t came 
ne In- 
appear- 
tablifh- 
traffic 
f both 
owever, 
| aét of 
without 
tern of 
le gave 
e arms 
marines 
he fea, 
anders 
*s con- 

other 
ity was 

thefe 


ms had. 


, about 
ed, and 
an idea 
der us 
| ver 
Nid nt 

think 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 167 
think myfelf juftified in infliing a more fevere 
punifhment on him who had committed the of- 
fence: at the fame time, to give them fome idea of 
our power, I ordered three pigeons to be bought, 
which were thrown up into the air, and killed by 
mufket-fhot, in prefence of the whole affembly. 
This act feemed to have infpired them with fome 
fear, and, I muft own, I expected more from this 
fentiment than from that of kindnefs, of which. 
man, hardly out of the favage fiate, is rarely fufcep- 
tible. 

While every thing was going on with the greateft 
tranquillity, and our: cafks were filling with water, I 
thought I might walk about two hundred paces, for 


' the fake of vifiting a charming village, fituated in the 


midft of a wood or rather orchard, the trees in which 
were weighed down by fruit. The houfes were 
placed in the circumference of a circle, about 150 
fathoms in : iameter, the centre of which formed a. 
vaft open place, with a grafs-plat of the moft beauti-. 
ful verdure ; the trees which overfhaded it, kept up 
a delicious frefhnefs. Women, children, and old 
men accompanied me; and invited me into their 
houfes, there they fpread the fineft and frefheft mats 


. on the ground, formed by fimall picked pebbles, and 


which they had raifed about two feet to protect them 
from the damp. I entered the handfomett of thete 
huts, which probably belonged to the Chief, when how 
great was my furprife, to fee a large room of lattice 
work, equally well executed with any of thofe about 
Paris. The beft architect could not have given a 
more elegant curve to the extremities of the ellipfis 
than terminated this cabin; a range of columns at five 
feet diftance from each other was placed all round it 
thefe columns were made of trunks of trees wrought 
with great nicety, between which, fine mats, artfully 
laid one on the other like the fcales of a fifh, were 
clevated or let down by cords like our lattices, the 
3 M 4 reft 


168 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


_yeft of the lioufe was covered with Icaves of the co-. 


Coa palin. 
“This charming country united the twofold advantage 
of a foil fertile without culture, and a climate which 


required no cloathing. Bread fruit, coëva-nut, bana, 


na, gouvas, arid orange trees furnifhed' this fortunate 
péôple with abundance of wholefome nourifhment ; 
while fowls, pigs and dogs, which live on the refufe 
of thefe fruits, afforded them an agreeable variety of 
meats. They were fo rich,-and in want of fo little, 
that they difdained our inftruments of iron and ftuffs, 
atid would only have beads: burthened. with real 
goods, they only wifhed for ufelefs things. > 
They had fold at our market more than two hun- 
dred tamé wood pigeons, which would only eat out 
of thé hand ; they had alfo given us in exchange the 
moft charming turtle dovés and parroquets, equal 
tame with the pigeons. . What imagination could 
not figure to itfelf the happinefs of fo delicious an 
abode! Thefe Iflanders, were we inceflantly repeat- 
ig, afé undoubtedly the moft happy inhabitants of 
the earth ; furrounded by their wives and their chil- 
dren, they enjoy, in the midft of repofe, days of pu- 
fity and tranquillity ; their only care is to bring up 
bitds, and, like the firft Adam, to gather without 
labour, the fruits which grow-over their heads. We 
deceivéd ourfelves : this beautiful abode was not the 
manfion of innocence : we perceived, it is true, no 
arms, but the bodies of thefe Indians covered with 
{cars, proved that they muft be at war, or quarrel 
among themfelves, and their countenances befpoke 
a ferocity imperceptible in the phyfiognomy of the 
Women. Nature had without doubt, left this ftamp 
dn the figure of the Indians to denote that man, al- 
moft wild, and in a ftate of anarchy, is a being more 
mifchievous than the fierceft of the animal creation. 
This firft vifit pañléd off without any difpute ca- 
pable of bringing on dreadful confequences ; I, how- 
: fe ever, 


1787. 
ever, 
but tl 


* Rollir 


ftones 
Monr 
and tl 
fright 
I obfe 
turbu 
chiefs 
felicit 
the pe 
noon 

boats 
along 
two fi 
had g 
M, B 
to act 
Iflanc 
it, ac 
quart 
whom 
told 

ing ¢ 
when 
ours, 
the c 
ples 

viole: 
mea 

the p 
beco 
chie 

moft 
with 

feren 


befo 


(1787. 


antage 
> which 


9 bana- 4 


rtunate 
ment ; 
refufe 


th real 


vo hun- 
eat out 
ge the 
equal 
| could 
fous an 
repeat- 
‘ants of 
ir chil- 
3 of pu- 
ring up 
without 
3 We 
not the 
‘ve, no 
ed with 
quarrel 
Jefpoke 
of the 
s ftamp 
jan, al- 
g more 
‘eation. 
ute ca- 
I, how- 
ever, 


the co. 


1787. | ROUND: THE WORLD. 169. 


ever, was informed there had been paras quarrels, 
but that great prudence had donc them away : M. 


* Rollin. our - furgeon-major had been pelted with 


ftones ; an: Iflander, under pretence of admiring M. 
Monneron’s fword, attempted to wrench it from him, 
and the feabbard only having come off, he ran away 
frightened to death at the fight of the naked blade. 
I obferved that thefe iflanders were in general very 
turbulent, and paid very little attention to ,their 
chiefs ; but as I meant to fet off in the afternoon, I - 
felicitated myfelf in not having given importance to 
the petty vexations we had experiencéd. Towards 
noon I returned on. board in my Bifcay yawl, and the 
boats followed me very clofe; it was difficult to get 
alongfide becaufe of the canoes which furrounded the 
two frigates, and our market not being exhaufted, I 
had given the command of the frigates in charge to: 
M, Boutin when I went on fhore, and left it to him 
to act as he fhould think proper, in permitting the 
Iflanders to come on board, or abfolutely forbidding 
it according to circumftances. I found on the 
quarter deck feven or eight Indians, the oldeft of 
whom was introduced to me as a chief. M. Boutin 
told me, that he could not prevent them from get- 
ing on board without giving orders to fire; that 
when they compared their bodily ftrength with 
ours, they derided our threats, and made a joke of 
the centinels ; that on his fide, knowing my princi- 
ples of moderation, he was not willing to employ 
violent means, which notwithfianding, were the only 
means that could refirain them: he added, that fince 
the prefence of the chief, the Iflanders on board had 
become more orderly and lefs infolent. I made the 
chief many preients, and gave him proofs of the ut- 
moft kindnefs: wifhing afterwards to infpire him 
with a high opinion of our ftrength, I ordered dif- 
ferent proofs of the ufe of our arms to be made 
before him: but their effect made little or no im- 

preflion 


170 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787, 


preffion on him, and he feemed to think they were 
only fit for killing birds. Our boats arrived laden 
with water, and I difpofed every thing for weigh- 
ing, and taking patie, i of a gentle land breeze, 
which made us hope to have time for getting a little 
further off the coaft; M. de Langle returned at 
the fame time from his excurfion; he told me that 
he landed in a fine cove for boats, fituated at the 
foot of a delightful village, and near a cafcade of 
the moft limpid water. 

In going on board he had given orders for getting 
under way, perceiving, like me, the neceflity for it : 
but he infifted, in the moft pofitive manner, upon our 
ftretching off and on a league from the coaft, and pro- 
curing a few long-boat loads of water, before finally 
bidding adieu to the ifland. In vain I reprefented to 
him that we were not in the leaft want of it : he had 
adopted Capt. Cook’s fyftem, and thought that water 
recently taken on board was a hundred times prefer- 
able to that which we had in the hold ; and as fome of 
his fhip’s company fhewed flight fymptoms of fcurvy, 
he thought, with reafon, that it was our duty to give 
them every poffible comfort. Befides, no ifland could 
ftand in competition with this for abundance of provi- 
fions ; the two frigates having already trafficked for 
500 pigs, a great quantity of fowls, pigeons, and fruit, 
and all at the expence only of a few beads of glafs. 

Ï at once faw the truth of thefe reflections, but a 
fecret foreboding at firft prevented my acquiefcence. 
E told him that I found thefe iflanders too turbulent 
to rifk fending our boats on fhore, where they could 
not be fupported by the fire of the fhips; that our 
moderation had only ferved to increafe the confi- 

dence of the Indians, who only calculated on our 
_perfonal ftrength, far inferior to their own. But 
nothing could fhake M. de Langle’s refolution, who 
told me that my oppofition made me refponfible for 
the progrefs of the fcurvy, which began to make its 

appearance 


1787.] 
appear 
x he 
comme 
he bep 
expedi 
return 
M. de 
city, t 
motive 
ive U 
that 
the mi 
fhould 
per, a 
The e 
to get 
found 
in the 
been ¢ 
aftern 
athore 
till th 
the w 
about 
morn 
and i 
light 
to co 
were 
long 
tin ar 
ut t 
fl t 
were 
the 1 
tainc 
fillec 
elth 


(1787, 
hey were 
ed laden 
r weigh. 

breeze, 
g a little 
rned at 
me that 
d at the 
afcade of 


getting 
y for it: 
pon our 
and pro- 
finally 
ented to 
he had 
at water 
s prefer- 
s fome of 
f fcurvy, 
y to give 
id could 
of provi- 
cked for 
nd fruit, 
 glafs, 
, but a 
efcence. 
rbulent 
y could 
hat our 
> confi- 
on our 
. But 
n, who 
ible for 
lake its 
>arance 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 171 


appearance with fufficient violence, and that, befides, 
the harbour of which he fpoke was much more 
commodious than our former watering place. At laft 
he begged me to give him leave to head the firft 
expedition, affuring me that in three hours he would 
return on board, with all the boats filled with water. 
M. de Langle was a man of fuch judgment and capa- 
city, that thefe confiderations, more than any other 
motive, determined my affent, or rather made me 
give up my own will to his ; I therefore promifed him 
that we would ftand off and on all night; that on 
the morrow, our two long-boats and our two barges 
fhould be expedited, armed as he might judge pro- 
er, and that the whole fhould be under his orders. 
The event completed our conviction that it was time 
to get under way ; for, on taking up the anchor, we 
found one ftrand of the cable cut by the coral, and 
in the courfe of two hours the whole cable would have 
been cut. As we did not fet fail till four o’clock in the 
afternoon, it was too late to. think of fending the boats 
afhore, and their departure was accordingly deferred 
till the following day. ‘The night being ftormy, and 
the winds changing every inftant, refolved me to get 
about three leagues diftant from the coaft. In the 
morning the dead calm would not let me approach, 
and it was not before nine o’clock that there arofe a 
light breeze from the north-eaft, that enabled me 
to come near the ifland, from which, at eleven, we 
were only one fhort league. I then difpatched my 
long boat and my barge, commanded by Meffis. Bou- 
tin and Mouton, on board the Aftrolabe, with orders to 
put themfelves under the command of M. de Langle; 
all thofe who were flightly infected with fcurvy, 
were put on board, as well as fix armed foldiers, with 
the mafter at arms at their head ; the two boats con- 
tained 28 men, and carried about 20 empty cafks to be 
filled with water. Meffrs. de Lamanon and Colinet, 
although far from well, were among the number of 
thofe 


172 _ LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE F178, 
thofe who. left the Bouffole.. On the other hand, M, 
de Vaujuas, a convalefcent, accompanied M. de 
Langle in his barge ; M. le Gobien, a midfhipman, 
commanded the long-boat ; and, Meflis. de Ig 
Martinière, Lavaux, and Father Receveur, made 
part of the 33 perfons fent from the Aftrolabe— 
- Among the 61 individuals compofing the whole ex. 
pedition, were the choiceft men of our crews. M. 
de Langle armed the whole with mufkets and cut. 
Jaffes, and fix fwivels were mounted in the long-boats; 
I left it to him to do whatever he might think necef- 
fary for his fafety. The certainty of having had no 
difpute with thele people, for which they could har- 
bour revenge, the immenfe quantity of canoes which 
furrounded us in the offing, the air of gaiety and 
confidence which prevailed in our traffick, all tended 
to increafe his. fecurity ; and. I, confefs that it was 
not greater than mine : but it was contrary to my 
principles to fend boats afhore, without extreme ne- 
ceffity, and. particularly in the midft of a numerous 
people, which could neither be fupported nor even 
feen by our fhips. The boats put off from the 
Aftrolabe at half paft twelve at noon, and in lefs 
than three. quarters.of an hour arrived at the water- 
ing place. How great was the furprife of all the 
officers, and of M. de Langle himfelf, to find, inftead 
of a large and commodious bay, a creek almoft choked 
up with coral, which could only be entered by a wind- 

ing channel, lefs than 25 feet in width, where the furf 
broke as upon abar! When they were within, they 
did not find three feet water; the long-boats got 
a-ground, and the barges were only kept a-float by be 
ing hauled up to the mouth of the channel, far enough 
from the beach. Unfortunately, M. de Langle had 
explored this bay at high water, and did not fup- 
pofe that in thefe iflands the tide rofe five or fix 
fect; he thought that his eyes deceived him, His 
firft: movement was to quit this bay, for that where 
we 


ng-boats: 
ink necef. 
ig had no 
ould har- 
oes which 
aiety and 
all tended 
at it was 
ry to my 
reme ne- 
iumerous 
nor even 
from the 
d in lefs 
he water- 
of all the 
1, inftead 
ft choked 
y a wind- 


e the furf . 


hin, they 
oats got 
oat by be 


r enough . 


ngle had 
not fup- 
ve or fix 
m, His 
at where 
; we 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 173 
we had already taken in water, and which compre- 
bended the dns advantages: but the air of tran- 
quility,- and : mildnefs .of the people who were in 
waiting on the beach; with. an immenfe quantity of 
fruit and pigs; the, women ‘and children he re- 
marked, among the iflanders, who always take cave 
to fend them out of the way when they have any 
hoftile views ; all thefe circumftances pu made 
his firft ideas of prudence vanifh, which an incon- 
ceivable fatality prevented him from following. He 


‘put the water cafks on fhore from the four boats, with 


the greateft tranquillity,; his foldiers jeftablithed the 
beft order on the beach, where they formed a line, . 
which. left plenty of room for our people, : But 


. this.;calm was hot of long duration, many. of the 


canoes which had difpofed of their provifions toiour 
fhips, were returned on fhore, all of which reforted 


to the bay where they were taking in water, fo that 


by degrees it was full: inftead of 200 ithabitants, 
including women and children, which M. de Langle 
found affembled on: his arrival at ‘half paft one, et 
three o’clock there were 10 or 1200.. The number 
of canoes which had traded with us in'the morning, 
was fo confiderable, that we had fcarcely perceived 
their diminution in.'the afternoon; I gave myfelf 
credit for keeping’ them engaged on board, hoping 
that our boats would thereby meet'with lefs interrup- 
tion: my error was great; the fituation of M.deLangle 
became more embarrafling every moment ; feconded 
by Mefirs. de Vaujuas, Boutin, Colinet, and: Gou- 
bien, he however fucceeded in fhipping his waters 
but the bay was :almoft dry, and he could not.ex- 
pect to get his long-boats afloat before four o'clock 
in the afternoon ; he neverthelefs went on board, as 
well as his detachment, and took his fiation in the 
bow, with his mufket and fafileers, forbidding them 
to fire without orders. He, neverthelefs, began to 
perceive that he fhould foon-be forced to doit: ‘the 

; fiones 


174 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787, 


ftones already flew about, and thefe Indians, the 
water only reaching up to their knees, furrounded 
_ the boats, at lefs than a toife difiant; the efforts 
of the foldiers who were embarked, to‘difperfe them, 
‘were in vain. Ifthe fear of commencing hoftilities, 
and being accufed of barbarity, had not checked 
M. de Langle, he would have affuredly ordered a 
difcharge, both’ from the mufquetry and fwivels, to 
be madc on the Indians, which would certainly have 
kept the multitude at a diftance ; but he flattered 
himfelf that he fhould be able to reftrain them with. 
out fhedding blood, and fell a victim to his own 
humanity. A fhower of ftones, thrown from a very 
fhort diftance, with all the ftrength of a fling, foon 
reached almoft all thofe whowere in the long-boat. M. 
de Langle had only time to fire his mufket twice, when 
he was knocked down, and unfortunately fell over the 
larboard fide, when more than 200 Indians immedi- 
ately maflacred him with clubs and ftones. When he 
was dead, they tied him by one ‘of his arms, toa 
row-lock of the boat, for the purpofe of profiting, no 
doubt, of his fpoils. The long-boat of the Boufiole, 
commanded by M. Boutin, was a-ground, two toifes 
from that of the Aftrolabe, leaving, in a parallel line 
between them, a little channel, unoccupied by the 
Indians, whereby all the wounded who were fortu- 
nate enough not to fall on the off fide, faved 
themfelves by fwimming; they reached our barges, 
which very fortunately remaining a-float, were the 
means of faving 49 men out of the 61 compofing the 
expedition. M. Boutin had imitated all the move- 
ments, and followed all the fteps of M. de Langle; 
his water cafks, his detachment, and all his people, 
had been embarked at the fame time, and he pofted 
himfelf in the fame manner in the bow of the long- 
boat. Although apprehenfive of the dreadful confe- 
quences of M. de Langle’s moderation, he did not 
fuffer himfelf, nor order his detachment to fire, sha 

aiter 


down | 


1787..] 
after hi 
diftanc 
brough 
load ag 


long-bi 
nutes, | 
faved t 
each fe 
the otl 
on the 
inftant 

But 
Iflande 
got on 
dred ; : 
pieces 
took n 
Meñrs. 
mainde 
remain 
who ha 
blows « 
barges, 
killed | 
any thi 
that th 
exhauft 
could r 
a numl 
tended 
full ple 
good o 
ferved | 
flole’s | 
owe th 
wound: 


kept ak 


L1787, 
lians, the 
rrounded 
1e. efforts 
rfe them, 
0ftilities, 

checked 

dered a 
vivels, to 
inly have 
flattered 
em with. 
his own 

ym a very 
ing, foon 
boat. M. 
ice, when 
| over the 
immedi- 

W hen he 
rms, toa 
fiting, no 
Boufiole, 
wo toifes 
allel line 
d by the 
re fortu- 
le, faved 
r barges, 
were the 
ofing the 
he move- 
Langle ; 
is people, 
ne pofted 
the long- 
ul confe- 
» did not 
ire, until 
after 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 175 
after his commander. It may be fuppofed, that at the 
diftance of four or five paces, every fhot muft have 
brought down an Indian, but they had not time to 
load again. M. Boutin was, in like manner, knocked 


down by a ftonc ; he fortunately fell between the two 


long-boats, on board of which, in lefs than five mi- 
nutes, not a fingle man remained. Thofe who had 
faved themfelves by fwimming to thé two barges, had 
each feveral wounds, moftly on the head; thofe on 
the other hand, who had the misfortune to fall over 
on the fide of the Indians, were put an end to in an 

inftant, by their clubs. | | ie 
But fuch was their rage for pillage, that thofe 
Iflanders ran to take poffeffion of the long-boats, and 
got on board to the number of three or four hun- 
dred ; they broke up the feats, and pulled the infide to 
pieces in fearch of our fuppofed riches. They then 
took no further notice of our barges, which gave 
Mefirs, Vaujuas and Mouton time to fave the re- 
mainder of the people, and to be fure that none 
remained in the power of the Indians, befides thofe 
who had been maflacred and killed in the water, by 
blows of their patows. Thofe who were on board our 
barges, and who had till then been firing upon and 
killed many of the Iflanders, no longer thought of 
any thing but throwing their water-cafks into the fea, 
that the boats might hold them all ; befides they had 
exhaufted moft of their ammunition, and the retreat 
could not be effected without difficulty, with fo great 
a number of perfons dangeroufly wounded, who, ex- 
tended on the thwarts, prevented the oars from having 
full play. To the wifdom of M. de Vaujuas, the 
good order he eftablifhed, and the punctuality ob- 
ferved by M. Mouton, who commanded the Bouf- 
flole’s boat, 49 perfons of the two fhips’ companies 
owe their prefervation. M. Boutin who had five 
wounds in the head, and one in the ftomach, was 
kept above water by the coxfivain of the long-boat, 
. who 


176 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE ‘ =‘ [ 1787, 

who wus himfelf.wourded:. : M. Colinet:was found 

lying almoft lifelefs on the grapnel rope of the-barge, 

withonearm fraGtured, a finger:broke,:andtwo wounds 

in the head. M. Lavaux, furgeon-major of the Aftro- 
labe, was fo badly wounded, that itwas neceflary to tre. 

pan him ; he had neverthelefs fwam tothe boats as 
well as M. dela Martiniére and Father Receveur, who 
had received a violent contufion in theieye. M. de 
Lamanon :and de ‘Langle were maffacred with unex. 
ampled batbarity, as well as Talim, mafter at arms of 
the Bouflole, ‘and nine others of the two fhips’:com- 
panies. The ferocious Indian after having ‘killed 
them, yet fought to wreak his ‘fury on :their lifelefs 
” earcafes with ‘clubs. :M. le Gobien, who commanded 
the Aftrolabe’s long-+boat-under the orders | of M. de 
Langle, did not ‘quit it before'he: found himfelf left 
alone ; after having ufed all his ammunition, ‘he leapt 
‘into the water on ‘the:fide of the channel formed, by 
the two ‘boats, which, as T'before:faid, was not pot- 
feffed by the Indians ;:and, notwithfiandinghiswounds, 
fucceeded in faving himfelf in one of the barges; that 
of the Afirolabe was fo deeply Jaden that it grounded, 


which gave the ‘Iflanders an idea‘of harvaffing the | 


avounded in their retreat ; they came down in great 
numbers towards'the reefs at the entrance of the cove, 
which the barges-were under the neceflity of paffing at 
the diftance of about'ten feet, The little ammunition 
that remained: was exhaufted on the’ furious. crowd, 
and the boats at length got out of this den, more 
dreadful by its perilous fituation, and the cruelty of 
its inhabitarits, than the haunt of lions and tygers. 

At five o’clock: they arrived on: board, and gave us 
‘the recital of this difaftrous event. ‘At that moment 
we had round us 100 canoes, the natives in which, 
‘were felling ‘their provifions with a fecurity which 
proved their innocence : but they ‘were the brothers, 
‘children, and fellow countrymen. of thefe: barbarous 
<affaffins ; and I confefs, [had recourfe to ‘all my er 

! | on, 


178; 
fon, 
previ 
Alre 
ing : 
were 
fingl 
give 
noe f 
with 
a fing 
the q 
was b 
row, 
to jui 
remai 
his in 
It: 
exped 
recov 
appro 
only : 
fettins 
the cr 
bight 
appro: 
ftill ke 
vigou 
tion of 
run aj 
turn, 
fea-fi 
would 
toa 
being 
was ne 
tage o 
M de 
not, ho 
Vou 


(787, 

was found 

the-barge, 

Jo wounds 

he \Aftro- 

ary to tre- 

2 boats ag 
veur, who 
.. M. de 
th unex- 
at arms of 
hips’:com- 
ing ‘killed 
eir Jifelefs 
ymmanded 
of M. de 
imfelf left 
n, ‘he:leapt 
formed) by 
1s not pof- 
iswounds, 
rges; that 
grounded, 


vaffing the . 


n in great 
f the cove, 
fpaflingrat 
nmunition 
bus. crowd, 
den, more 
cruelty of 
ind tygers. 
nd gave us 
at moment 
s in which, 
rity which 
he: brothers, 
| barbarous 
all my:rea- 
fon, 


1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. Bae 


fon, to reftrain the rage which animated me, and to 

revent our fhip's companies from murdering them. 
Already were the foldiers unlafhing the guns and fly- 
ing to arms: I .checked thefe movements, which 
were neverthelefs very pardonable, and ordered: a 
fingle gun, loaded only with powder, to be fired, to 
give notice to the canoes to keep off. A finall ca- 
noe from the coaft, probably made them acquainted 
with what had happened ; for in lefs than an hour not 
a fingle one was to be ‘feen. - An Indian who was on 
the quarter: deck of my. frigate when our boat arrived, 
was by “iny orders arrefted and put in irons’; the mor- 
row, having gone nearer’ the coaft, I gave. him leave 
to jump into the fea: the confidence’with which: he 
remained in the frigate being an unequivocal proof of 
his innocence. Ft: 

It was my firft intention to give orders for a new 
expedition, to avengc-my unhappy companions, and 
recover the wrecks of the boats. With this view, I 
approached the coaft in fearch of an anchorage ; ‘but I’ 
only found the fame bottom of coral, with a fwell 
fetting ‘in fhore and breaking on the reefs; befides, 
the creek where the maflacre took place, was a deep 
bight in the ifland, and feemed fcarcely poffible to 
approach within gun fhot. M. Boutin, whofe wounds 
fill kept him: to his bed, but whofe mind was in full 
vigour, reprefented to me alfo, that fuch was the fitua- 
tion of the bay, that fhould our boats unfortunately 
run aground, it was probable not a man would re- 
turn, for the trées which grow almoft clofe to the 
fea-fide, fheltering the Indians from our mufquetry, . 
would leave fuch as might be difembarked, expofed 
to a fhower of ftones, the more difficult to avoid, as 
being flung with great power and fkill; their effect 
was nearly the fame as our balls, and had the advan- 
tage over them of coming in more rapid fucceffion. 
M. de Vaujuas was alfo of the fame opinion. I would 
not, however, give my aflent, until thoroughly convin- 

Vox. II. N ced 


178 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


ced of the impoffibility of anchoring within gun thot 
of the village. I paffed two days in plying before 
the bay, where I ftill faw to windward, the wrecks of 
our long-boats aground: on the fand, and an immenfe 
number of Indians round them, What appeared 
very unaccountable was, that during this time 5 or 6 
canoes put off from the coaft, and came with pigs, 
pigeons, and cocoa nuts to offer us in exchange: I 
was every moment under the neceffity of reprefling 
my anger, not to order them to be funk. , Thefe In- 
dians, ignorant of our having any arms that could 
carry further than our mufkets, remained without 
fear 50 toifes from our fhips, and offered their pro- 
vifions with the moft perfect fecurity. Our geftures 
not encouraging their approach, they thus pañed a 
whole hour in the afternoon of the 12th December. 
Raillery fucceeded their offers of traffick, and I foon 
perceived many other canoes detached from the bank 
to join them, As they thought themfelves fecure 
from our guns, and every thing evinced that I muft 
fpon be obliged to lay afide my principles of modera- 
tion, I ordered a gun to be fired in the midft of them. 
My orders were executed with the greateft precifion ; 
the ball dafhed the water into the canoes, which in a 
moment haftened to fhore, drawing with them in 
their flight thofe who had juft quitter it. 

It grieved me to tear myfelf from fo horrible a 
place, and leave the bodies of my murdered compa- 


nions behind ; I loft an old friend, a man of fenfe,. 


judgment and information, and one of the beft offi- 
cers in the French navy ; his humanity was the caufe 
of his death: could he but have brought himfelf to 
have given orders to fire upon thofe Indians who 
firft entered the water to furround his boats, his lofs, 
that of M. de Lamanon, and the ten other viétims of 
Indian brutality, would never have happened : befides 
twenty others, who were grievoufly wounded. Thus 
this event deprived us for a time of 32 men, and the 

box À . two 


178 
two 
cont 
of 1 
guid 
woul 
man 
on be 
into 
ing { 
fink 
than 
in m: 
{cient 
recita 
Cook 
the be 
matte 
hands 
the ca 
borde. 
at fea 
from t 
{well 
doubt 
chains 
of the 
the ca 
frigate 
haufte 
this 
that © 
dition 
fuccefs 
Was no 
boats 
means 
on the 
bearing 


(1787. 
un fhot 
y before 
recks of 
mimenfe 
ppeared 
e 5 or6 
th pigs, 
ange: I 
prefling 
“hefe In- 
at could 

without 
heir pro- 
-geftures 
 pañled a 
ecember. 
id I foon 
the bank 
es fecure 
it I muft 
- modera- 
of them. 
precifion ; 
hich in a 
them in 


orrible a 
l compa- 


of fenfe,. 


beft offi- 
the caufe 
imfelf to 
jans who 
, his lofs, 
iétims of 
+: befides 

Thus 
, and the 

two 


1787] ROUND THE WORLD. ‘179 


two long-boats, which were the only ones capable of 
containing any number of armed men for the purpofe 
of making a defcent. Thefe confiderations were a 
guide for my future conduct, and the fmalleft check 
would have obliged me to burn one of the frigates to 
man the other. I had indeed the frame of a long-boat 
on board, but I could not put it together without going 
into port. To have fatisfied my revenge in mafiacre- 
ing fome Indians, I muft at fame time have deftroyed 
funk, or blown to pieces 100 canoes, containing more 
than 500 fouls; but I was afraid of being deceived 
in marking out my victims, and the diétates of con- 
fcience preferved their lives. Thofe in whom this 
recital may call to mind the cataftrophe of Captain 
Cook, mutt recollect that his fhips were moored in 
the bay of Karakakooa: that their guns made them 
matters of the fea-fhore: that the law was in their own 
hands, and they could threaten with deftruétion all 
the canoec :eft on the beach, as well as the villages 
bordering on the coaft: we were, on the contrary, 
at fea out of gun fhot, obliged to keep at a diftance 
from the coaft, for fear of being becalmed; a heavy 
{well always carried us towards the reefs, where we 
doubtlefs might have anchored with iron mooring 
chains, but even this was out of the reach of gun fhot 
of the village ; in fhort, the fwell was fufficient to cut 
the cable at the hawfe-holc, and thereby expofe the 
frigates to the moft imminent danger. I thus ex- 
haufted very calculation of probability before I left 
this fatal ifland ; and it was clearly demonftrated 
that anchoring was impracticable, and the expe- 
dition rafh, without the affiftance of the frigates : 
fuccefs had even been of no avail, as there certainly 
was not a man left alive in the Indians’ power, our 
boats were broken up and aground, and we had the 
means of replacing them on board. I confequently 
on the 13th, fteered for a third ifland which I faw 
bearing W. by N, W., and which, owing to bad 
N2 weather, 


180 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


weather, M. Bougainville had only feen from the 
maft head ; a channel, nine leagues in width, fepa- 
rates it from that of Maouna. The Indians had 
given us the names of the ten iflands thaticom- 
pofed their archipelago: as alfo a rude fketch on 
paper of their fituation ; this, although it cannot be 
depended upon, renders it neverthelefs probable, 
that the people of thefe different iflands form a kind 
of confederacy, and frequently hold communications 
with each other. Our later difcoveries did not leave 
a doubt of this archipelago being more confiderable 
both in population and abundance of provifions, than 
that of the Society Iflands; it is probable even that 
there may be good anchorage: but having no long- 
boat, and fecing what a ftate of ferment the crews were 
in, I refolved to come no more to an anchor until my 
arrival at Botany Bay, in New Holland, where I pro- 
-pofed building a new long-boat with the frame I had 
on board. I wifhed, neverthelefs, for the advance- 
ment of gcography, to explore the different iflands 
T might fall in with, and determine their exa¢t longi- 
tude and latitude: I likewife hoped to traffick with 
the Indians, by ftanding off and on near their iflands, 
I willingly leave to others the trouble of writing an 
uninterefting hiftory of thefe barbarians. A ftay of 
24 hours, and narrative of our misfortunes, are fuf- 
ficent to fhew their atrocious manners, their arts, 
and the productions of one of the fineft countries 
under heaven. 

Before I continue the account of our track along 
the iflands of the archipelago, I think it proper to 
give the narrative of M. de Vaujuas, who commanded 
the retreat from the bay of Maouna, and although he 
only went afhore as a convalefcent and not upon duty, 
circumftances gave him firength, and he did not leave 
the bay before he was well aflured that not a fingle _ 
Frenchman remainedalive inthe power of the Indians. 

Narra- 


[1787. 
from the 
th, fepa- 
ians had 
at:com- 
etch on 
annot be 
probable, 
m a kind 
nications 
not leave 
fiderable 
ns, than 
ven that 
no long- 
rews were 
until my 
re I pro- 
me I had 
advance- 
nt iflands 
1¢t_ longi- 
fick with 
ir iflands, 
vriting an 
À ftay of 
, are fuf- 
their arts, 
countries 


ack. along 
proper to 
mmanded 
hough he 
pon duty, 
| not leave 
t a fingle © 
e Indians. 
Narra- 


The Latitude of the Anchoring Place 14.11 48S. 
and the Longitude 186: 40 57 East. 


23. acl’ 
" f reek duMals Ms 


J0 


y ? + 
ha! rCreek 


Coral 35 Coral 


JAfs ie Bay 54 


PART 
of the 
Island of 
MAoOUNA,. 


Position of | the Long Boats 
«Barges of the French 
Frigates atthe time of 
the Mais acre. 
aBoussoles longBoat 
B.L'Astrotabes a? ad? 
ClaBoussoles Barge of the Creek 
D.LAstrolabes a’ : 
Du MASSACRE, 


Scale of Toises 


0 00 


Publishd July 20/1798.6y TS tockdale. 


PART 
of the 
sland of 


AOU NA, 


Pian 


the Creek 


AS SACRE, 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 


NARRATIVE OF M. DE VAUJUAS, 


5 Sunday the 11th: December at 11 o’clock in the 
«forénoon, M: de la Péroufe fent his long boat and 
« barge, laden with water-cafks, witha detachment of 
“ armed foldiers, to make part of an’ expedition under 
« the command of M. de Langle, ‘M. Boutin had al- 
“ready received inftruétions rélative to the means of 
“ keeping order, and providing for our fecurity when 
“ the boats fhould reach the fhore. At the fame hour 
“ our captain hoifted out his buats, and likewife had 
“ flowed them with water-cafks ‘and provided with 
“arms. At half patt twelve, the frigates'heing thre€ 
“ quarters of a Icague from fhore, on the larboard 
“ tacks, the boats put off to water in a creek which 
“had been reconnoitred by M. de Langle: | “This 
“ watering place was to leeward of that where they had 
“before been, M. de Langle having thought it pre- 
“ ferable from its appearing leis inhabited and equally 
‘ commodious ; but the former had the advantage of 
# a more eafy entrance, and fufficient depth of water 
“ for the boats to run no rifk of getting aground. 
M. de Langle propofed to me, although a con- 
% valefcent and very weak, to accompany: him, and 
“ walk anid take the air on fhore ; he took the:com- 
“ mand of the barge himfelt; entrufting the long-boat 
“ to the care of M. le Gobien. That of the Bouffole 
“© was commanded by M. Boutin, and the barge by 
“M. Mouton. M. Colinet and Father Receveur, 
“ both invalids; Metlieurs de Lamaron!, la Mar- 
“tinière and Lavaux, accompanied us, as well as 
“ fevéral others from the two frigates ; making, the 
“two barges crews included, a detachment of ay 
“ one perfons. 
“When on cur way, we faw with concern a great 
* part of the canoes along fide the thip follow us, and 
“ come into the fame creek ; we alfo faw along thé 
N 3 “ rocks 


182 LA PERQUSE'§ VOYAGE L1787. 


“ rocks which divide it from the neighbouring bays, 
‘ many natives who had affembled from the villages, 
“ arriving at the reef which forms the creck of the 
* watering place, and leaves but a narrow and fhal- 
“ low paflage for boats, we found it was low water, and 
“ that the boats could not enter without running 
“ aground, this they accordingly did at half a mufket 
“¢ fhot from the beach, which we could only get near 
* by pufhing them forward with our oars. This bay 
‘ had been feen by the captain in the moft fayour- 
‘ able point of view, from the tide when he examined 
“ it not being fo low. 
‘ The favages, on our arrival, who lined the coaft 
* to the number of feven or eight hundred, threw inte 
the water many branches of the tree, from which the 
“¢ iflanders of the South Sea extract their intoxicat- 
‘ ing beverage, asa token of peace. On landing, M. 
“de Langle gave orders that each boat fhould be 
‘ guarded by an armed foldier and failor, while the 
* crews of the long-boats were employed in filling 
‘ water, under the protection of a double line of muf- 
‘ queteers, who extended from the boats to the water- 
“ ing place, The cafks were filled and quietly put on 
“ board, the iflanders being keptin tolerable awe bythe 
“ foldiers : there was among them a certain number 
“ of women, and very young girls, who offered them- 
“ felves to us in the moft indecent manner, and 
“whofe advances were not altogether rejected; we 
‘ faw but few children there. 
. © Towards the end of our work ‘the natives in- 
6. creafed in number, and became more troublefome, 
which circumftance determined M. de Langle 
to give up his firft idea of trafficking for provi- 
5 fions with them, and he gave orders for embark- 
“ ing immediately; but before this,.and what I 
think. was the origin of our misfortune, hé, pre- 
fented fome beads to a kind of Chiefs, who. had 
contributed in keeping the iflanders at a little dif- 
‘ tance. 


L1787. 
x bays, 
illages, 
of the 
d fhal- 
ter, and 
upning 
mufket 
ret near 
his bay 
fayour- 
amined 


he coaft 
ew inte 
hich the 
toxicat- 
ing, M. 
uld be 
vile the 
filling 
of muf- 
> water- 
put on 
e bythe 
number. 
| them- 
er, and 
ds; we 


ves in- 
lefome, 
Langle 

provi- 
mbark- 
what I 
1¢) pre- 
ho. had 
ttle dif- 
‘ tance. 


h | 

ity 
COTA) 

4 Hi | 


i fe 
i ‘411 


i À | i, 


| | Ni 
i Ae, 


| 


ve 1) Hi 4 i 


ih qa ch 


Hits ih 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD; ‘187 
« tance. : We were, for all that, certain that:this 
i“ i mere mockery ; and that if thefe Chiefs 
“) had any actual authority, it extended only over 
4 very few. ‘Fhefe prefents, diftributed to five or 
fix individuals, excited the difcontent of all the 
others: From that time:a general murmur arofe, 
and it was no longer in our power to keep thern 
quiet: they notwithtianding let us get into our 
boats, but part of them followed us into the wu- 
ter, while the others collected flones on the 
beach. 
“As the boats were aground at a little diftance from 
the firand, we were obliged to go up toour middlés 
in water to get at them, in doing which many fol- 
diers wetted their arms. In this critical fituation 
coinmeticed the horrid feene of which I am go- 
ing to fpeak. Hardly had we got into the boats, 
when M. de Langle gave orders for pufhing therh 
off and taking up the grapnel, which many ro- 
buft iflanders refifted, by laying hold of the rope. 
The captain being witnefs to this refiftance, feeing 
the tumult increafe, and fome ftones having 
reached him, fired his gun into the air, to endea- 
your'to intimidate them ; which, fo far from fuc- 
cceding, they made the fignal for a general at- 
tack. A fhower of ftones, thrown with equal 
force and celerity, poured down upon us; the 
combat on both fides commenced, and became ge- 
neral. Thofe whofe muikcts would go off, 
brought many of thefe ferocious Indians to the 
ground, but the others fhewing not the leaft 
concern, feemed to redouble their vigour; one 
party of whom approached the boats, whilit the 
others, to the amount of fix or feven hundred, 
continued to ftone us in the moft dreadful and 
murderous manner. 
« On the firft act of hoftility I threw myfelf into 
the fea, to get to the Aftrolabe’s boat, which was 
deftitute of officers. The circumftance of the 
N 4 ‘ moment 


184 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


moment gave me ftrength for the fhort diftance I 
* had to go; and notwithfianding my weak ftate, 
‘ and fome blows I had received from ftones at the 
“ time, I got on board without any affiftance. I 
‘6 faw, with defpair, that there was fcarce a mufket 
« but was wet, and that all that I could do was to 
endeavour to get her afloat as foon as poffible, 
without the reef. The combat, however, went on ; 
and. the enormous ftones flung by the favages, 
were always wounding fome of us; and when- 
ever a wounded man fell overboard by the fide 
where the favages were, he was inftantly put an 
end to with clubs or paddles. | 
M. de Langle fell the firft victim to thefe bar- 
barians, whom he had never treated otherwife 
than well. At the beginning of the attack he was 
knocked, bleeding, over the bow of the boat, 
where he was fianding, into the fea, together 
with the mafter at arms and carpenter, who were 
both at his fide. The fury with which they threw 
themfelves on the captain, faved the two latter, 
who fucceeded in gaining the barge. Thofe who 
were in the long-boats foon underwent the fame 
fate as our unhappy chief, except a few, who, 
by efcaping their obfervation, were enabled to 
‘ reach the reef, from whence they fwam towards 
‘ the barges. Within four minutes had the iflanders 
‘ made themfelves mafiers of the two long-boats, and 
I had the pain of feeing my unfortunate companions 
‘murdered, without being able to give them the 
* leaft affiftance. The Aftrolabe’s barge was fill 
within the reef, and I waited in momentary ex- 
pectation of fecing it undergo the fate of the long- 
boats; but the avidity of the iflanders faved it, the 
“ greater number precipitating themfelves into the 
“ Jong-boats, and the others contenting themfelves 
« with pelting us with ftones: many, however, waited 
‘¢ for us at the mouth of the chant and on the reets. 
‘ Although 


[1787. 
tance J 
< flate, 
$s at the 
nee, I 
mufket 
was to 
offible, 
nt on ; 
avages, 
when- 
he fide 
put an 


fc bar- 
herwife 
he was 
e boat, 
gether 
10 were 
7 threw 
latter, 
fe who 
e fame 
, who, 
led to 
owards 
anders 
ts, and 
anions 
m the 
as ftll 
bry ex- 
long- 
it, the 
to the 
felves 
waited 
reets. 
hough 


6 


“we were in the leaft danger. 


1787-] ROUND THE WORLD. 185 
« Although the fwell was heavy, and the wind right 


on end, we fucceeded, notwithftanding a fhower 
of ftones, and the dangerous wounds many of us had 
received, in quitting this fatal place, and joining M. 
Mouton, commander of the Bouffole’s barge, who, 
by throwing his water cafks overboard, had lightened 


her to make room for thofe who could get on board, 


I had taken into that of the Aftrolabe, Mers. Bou- 
tin, Colinet, and feveral other perfons.. ‘Thofe 
who had faved themfelves, were all more or lefs 
wounded, fo that the boats were defencelefs ; and 
it was impoffible to think of returning into a bay, 
from whence we thought ourfelves too happy in 
efcaping, to make head againft a thoufand enraged 
barbarians ; it would have been expofing ourfelves, 
without the leaft utility, to certain death. We 
therefore fieered towards the two frigates, which, 
at three o'clock, when the maffacre took place, 


The breeze was 
frefh, and the frigates far to windward, an un. 
fortunate circumftance for us, and particularly 
for thofe whofe wounds required immediate dref- 
ing. At four o’clock they tacked, and ftood in 
again for fhore. We were no fooncr clear of the 
reefs, then I hauled my wind, to get: off from 
the coaft, and flung every thing overboard that 
could retard the boat’s way, fhe being full of people. 
Fortunately the iflanders, taken up with pillaging 
the long-boats, did not think of purfuing us. Our 
whole defence confified in four or five cutlafies, 
and two or three difcharges of mufquetry ; a fec- 
ble refource againft two or three hundred barba- 
rians, armed with clubs and flones, in very light 
canoes, which they might keep at what diftance 
they thought proper. Some few of them left the 
bay fhortly after us, but they failed coaftways, 
from whence one of them {et off to give notice to 
** thofe 


186 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


“ thofe who were along-fide of the frigates. This 
“ canoe had the infolence, in paffing, to make 
** menacing fignals; but my pofition obliged me to 
“¢ fufpend my revenge, and referve the feeble means 
“ which remained for our own defence. 
‘© We were no fooner in the offing, than I pulled 
with the wind right on end, towards the frigates, 
we hoifted a red handkerchief at the maft head, and, 
as we approached, fired our three laft mufquets, 
M. Mouton alfo made, with two handkerchiefs, 
fignal for affiftance ; but we were not perceived 
till clofe along-fide, when the Aftrolabe, which 
was neareft to us, bore down. At half paft four | 
lcft on board her the worft wounded, as did M. 
Mouton, and we immediately repaired on board 
the Bouffole, when I informed the commodore of 
this difaftrous event. After the precautions with 
which his prudence infpired him, and the juft 
confidence he had in M. de Langle, his furprife 
was extreme; and as to his diftrefs, I can only 
compare it with my own. This misfortune brought 
ftrongly to our recollection that of the 13th of 
July, 1786, and completed the bitternefs of our 
voyage ; ftill happy in this laft unfortunate occur- 
rence, in having faved the greateft part of thofe 
who embarked! Had not the thirft after pillage 
‘checked, or for a moment fixed the rage of the 
favages, not one of us would have efcaped. 
‘ It is impoffible to exprefs the fenfation which 
this terrible event canfed in both frigates. The 
death of M. de Langle, who had the confidence 
and efteem of his people, threw all the Afro. 
labe’s crew into defpair. The iflanders, who were 
along-fide, when I came on board, and ignorant 
‘ of what had happened, were on the point of falling 
facrifices to the vengeance of the failors, whom 
we had the greateft difficulty to keep within 


“ bounds. The general affliction which prevailed 
on 


[1787. 
tes, This 
to make 
igéd me to 
eble means 


an I pulled 
he frigates, 
head, and, 
mufquets, 
dkerchiefs, 
perceived 
be, which 
paft four | 
as did M. 
| on board 
imodoré of 
itions with 
d the juft 
his furprife 
[ can only 
ne brought 
1e 13th of 
refs of our 
ate occur- 
rt of thofe 
ter pillage 
ige of the 
ed. 

tion which 
ites. The 
confidence 
the Aftro: 
who were 
| ignorant 
tof falling 
yrs, Whom 
ep within 
) prevailed 
on 


1787.] 


¢6 
6 
“ 
[Li 
£6 
66 
66 
$ 


ROUND THE WORLD. 187 


on board, is the beft funeral panygeric which can 
be pronounced on the captain. For my own part, 
[loft in him rather a friend than a commander ; and 
the intereft he fhewed towards me, will make me 
lament his lofs while I have breath. Happy fhould 
I have been in affording him proof of my attach- 
ment and gratitude, by facrificing my life for his! 
But this brave officer, more expofed than the 
others, was the firft prey of the ferocious brutes 
that affailed us. In the weak ftate in which my 
recovery left me, I went afhore unarmed, under 
the protection of others; all the ammunition was 


“ either exhaufted, or wet, before I got to the barge, 


and when there I could only give, unhappily, 


orders too unavailing. 


“ I fhould not do juftice to thofe who were, like 
myfelf, fortunate enough to fave themfelves, did 
I not declare that they conducted themfelves with 


* the utmoft poffible bravery and coolnefs. Mefiis. 


Boutin and Colinet, who, notwithftanding their 
fevere wounds, had ftill their ufual prefence of 


# mind, kindly offered their fervices, which I de- 


“ feconded b 


rived great poles from ; and I was alfo ably 
M. le Gobien, who was the laft man 


“ that left the boat, and the iatrepidity of whofe 


‘ felves difmayed. 


example and exhortations contributed not a little 
to reanimate fuch of the failors as might feel them- 
The warrant officers, failors, 
and foldiers, executed the orders received with 


equal zeal and punctuality ; and M. Mouton had 


no lefs reafon to be fatisfied with the barge’s crew 


# of the Bouflole. : 


« 


ss 


66 


‘ All thofe who were on fhore can bear witnefs, 
like me, that no violence, no imprudence on our 
fide, preceded the attack of the favages. Our 
captain had, with refpeét to this, iffued the mott 
fiiét oydeys, which no one difobcyed. 


(S'gned) 6 VAUJAUS,” 


188 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


Return of the perfons maffacred by the Savages of the Ifand of 
Maouna, on the 11th of December, 1787. 


OF THE ASTROLABE. 


Offcers.—M. de Langle, Poft Captain, commander ; Yves Hu. 
mon, John Redellec, Francis Feret, Laurence Robin, and a Chi. 
nefe, /eamen. 

Lewis David, quarter-gunner ; John Geraud, fervant. 


OF THE BOUSSOLE, 


M. de Lamanon, natural philofopher and naturalift; Peter 
Talin, gunner ; Andrew Roth, and Jofeph Rayes, quarter-gun- 
ners. 


All the others, in the party, were more or lefs feverely wounded, 


CHAP. XXV. 


DEPARTURE FROM THE ISLAND OF MAOUNA—DE- 
SCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF OYOLAVA—-EX- 
CHANGES WITH ITS INHABITANTS-——-SEE THE 
ISLAND OF POLA—-NEW DETAILS CONCERNING THE 
MANNERS, ARTS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES 
OF THESE ISLANDS, AND THE PRODUCE OF THEIR 
SOIL——FALL IN WITH COCOA-NUT AND TRAITOR 
ISLANDS. 


N the 14th of December, I ftood for the Ifland 

of Oyolava, which we got fight of five days 
before we reached the anchorage that proved fo fa- 
tal tous. M.de Bougainville had feen its fouthern 
part, as laid down in his plan of this archipelago, at: 
a very great diftance. ‘This ifland is feparated from 
that of Maounä, or the Maffacre, by a channel about: 
nine leagues in width; and the Ifland of Otaheite 
can 


[1787. 


of the Ifland of 
787... 


nder ; Yves Hu. 
obin, and a Chi. 


rvant. 


aturalift ; Peter 
eS, quarter-yun- 


verely wounded, 


AOUNA—DE- 
OLAV A—Ex-. 
—SEE THE 
CERNING THE 
CHE NATIVES 
CE OF THEIR 
ND TRAITOR 


or the Ifland 
of five days 
roved fo fa- 
its fouthern: 
hipelago, at: 
parated from 
annel about: 
of Otaheite 


can 


1787.) ROUND THE WORLD. 189 


can hardly be compared with it for beauty, extent, 
fertility, and population. At the difiance of three 
leagues from its N. E. point, we were furrounded 
by an innumerable quantity of canoes, laden with 
bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, fugar canes, pigeons 
and gallinules, but very few pigs. The inhabitants 
bore a great refemblance to thofe of the Ifland of 
Maouna, who had fo deteftably betrayed us; their 
drefs, features, and gigantic ftature, was fo nearly 
alike, that our failors fancied that they recognized 
many of the affaffins, and I had not a little trouble 
in preventing their being fired upon. But I was 
certain that they were blinded by rage and ven- 
geance, which, if I did not think myfelf juftified in 
wreaking on the canoes of the Ifland of Maouna 
itfelf, at the moment of being made acquainted with 
this horrible event, could not be juftly exercifed 
four days after, in another ifland, fifteen leagues from 
the field of battle. I therefore appeafed their fermen- 
tation, and exchanges were continued. Much more 
tranquillity and honefty prevailed here, than at the 
Ifland of Maouna, the fmalleft injuftice being pu- 
nifhed by blows, or reprimanded by threatening words 
and geftures. At four o’clock in the afternoon, we 
hove to, oppofite, perhaps, the moft extenfive village 
in any ifland of the South Sea, or rather abreaft of a 
very extenfive plain, covered with houfes, from the 
fummit of the mountains down to the banks of the 
fea. ‘Thefe mountains are nearly in the middle of 
the ifland, from whence the land inclines by a gentle 
declivity, prefenting to the view of the fhips an am- 
phitheatre, covered with trees, huts, and verdure ; 
the fmoke rofe from the heart of the village, as from 
a great city; the water was covered by canoes, all 
which endeavoured to get near our ‘hips; feveral were 
only paddled by idle lookers on, who, having no- 
thing to fell, rowed round our frigates, and appeared 
tu 


190 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE (1787. 


to have nothing to do but enjoy the fpectacle we 
afforded them. 

From women and children being among them, it 
might be prefumed that they had no finifter inten- 
tions; but we had too powerful motives for not truft. 
ing to thefe appearances, and were ready to repel 
the moft trifling act of hoftility, in a manner which 
would have rendered navigators formidable to thefe 
iflanders. Iam firongly inclined to believe that we 
are the firft with whom thefe people have ever traf. 
ficked. They had no idea of the ufe of iron, con- 
ftantly refufing that which we offered them, and pre- 
ferring a fingle glafs bead to an axe or fix inch 
nail. Rich in the wealth of nature, they, in their 
exchange, only fought for fuperfluities and objects 
of luxury. Among a great number of women, I 
obferved two or three agreeable countenances, which 
might be fuppofed to have ferved as a model for the 
print of the young woman bearing prefents, in Cook's 
third voyage ; their hair ornamented with flowers, 
and a green ribbon, like a bandeau, was plaited with 
grafs and mofs ; their fhape was elegant and their 
arms well turned and exaétly proportioned ; their 
eyes, countenances, and geftures, befpoke their mild- 
ncfs ; while on thofe of the men, were only depicted 
furprife and ferocity. 

At dufk we ftood along the ifland, and the canoes 
returned towards land ; the coaft, covered with break- 
ers, offering no fhelter to our fhips, becaufe the fea 
from the N. E. rifes and beats with violence upon 
the north coaft, along which we were fteering. Had 
my intention been to anchor, I ‘might probably have 
found excellent fhelter on the weft fide. Navigators 
in general, within the tropics, muft only look to 
leeward of the islands for good anchorage. The 
whole of the next day there was a dead calm, with 
much lightning, followed by thunder and rain. We 

were 


that b 
cordin 
muft 
dela’s 
pains 1 
ifland 
to the 
us, the 


(1787, 


ectacle we 


g them, it 
ter inten- 
' not truft- 
y to repel 
ner which 
le to thefe 
ve that we 
ever traf. 
iron, con- 
, and pres 
r fix inch 
y, in their 
id objects 
women, | 
ces, which 
lel for the 
in Cook’s 
h flowers, 
aited with 


and their 
ed ; their 
heir mild- 
y depicted 


he canoes 
‘ith break. 
fe the fea 
nce upon 
ng. Had 
ably have 
Navigators 
r look to 
re. The 
alm, with 
rain, We 

were 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 191 


were boarded by but very few canoes, which induc- 
ed me to think they had heard of the event at the 
iland of Maouna. However as it was poffible that 
the canoes had been reftrained from leaving their 
ports by the rain and lightning, this could be only 
conjecture, but it acquired great probability on the 
17th, when running along the ifland of Pola, which 
we went much nearer to than the preceding, we were 
vifited by no canoe whatever. I then judged that 
thefe people had not yet made fufficient progrefs in 
morality to know that the culpable alone ought ta 
fuffer, and that the punifhment of the real affaffins, 
would have fatisfied our revenge. The Ifland of Pola 
is fomewhat lefs, but equally beautiful with that of 
Oyolava, and is only feparated therefrom by a channel 
about four leagues in width, itfelf interfected by two 
tolerably large iflands, one. of which, very low and 
woody,. is probably inhabited. The north coaft of 
Pola, like that of the other iflands in the archipelago, 
is inacceffible to fhips, but in doubling its weftern 
point is found a calm fea, without breakers, which 
promifes excellent road-fieads. 

We had learnt from the Iflanders of Maounathat the 
Navigators’ Archipelago was compofed of ten iflands, 
viz. Opoun, the moft eafterly ; Léoné, Fanfoué, Ma- 
guna, Oyolava, Calinaflé, Pola, Shika, Offamo and 
Ouera. The pofition of the three laft is unknown to 
us, The Indians, on the plan they traced of this 
archipelago, placed them fouth of Oyolava, but had 
that been their actual fituation, it is certain that, ac- 
cording to the courfe De Bougainville purfued, he 
muft have feen them. Notwithftanding M. Blon- 
dela’s patience and fagacity, who took particular 
pains to get fome geographical illufirations from the 
iflanders, he could not hazard the leaft conjecture as 
to their bearing ; but the fequel of our voyage taught 
us, that two of the three might be Cocoa and Trai- 

tor 


192 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787 
tor*Iflands, fituate, according to Captain Wallis’s 
obfervations, 11° 5’ too far to the weft. 

Opoun, the moftfoutherly as well'as eafterly of thefe 
iflands, is in lat. 14° 7’ S. and in long, 1179 2747". W, 
Cafting the eye upon the map will thew the refpective 
pofition, fize, and relative diftance of thefe iflands; 
one point of land of each of which has been fubject- 
ed to exact determinations of latitude and longitude, 
marked on the fame plan, and deduced from the re- 
fult of feveral lunar obfervations, which ferved for 
correcting the error of our time-pieces. The difco- 
very of thefe. iflands has, by feveral geographers, been 
attributed to Roggewein, which, according to them, 
he in 1721, named Beauman’s Iflands ; but neither 
the hiftorical particulars relating to thefe people, nor 
the geographical pofition afligned to thofe iflands by 
the hiftorian of Roggewein’s voyage, + corroborate that 
opinion. His own words on this fubjecl are: “We 
“ difcovered three iflands at the fame time in the 12th 
“ degree of latitude, of a very agreeable appearance ; 
‘ we found them ftocked with fine fruit trees, and 
‘ herbs, vegetables, and plants of every defcription ; 
“ the iflanders who came to mect our veffels offered 
‘ us all forts of fifh, cocoa nuts, bananas, and other 
“ excellent fruit. Thefe iflands muft be well peopled, 
“ the beach being on-our arrival covered with many 
“ thoufands of men and women, the greater part of 
‘ the former carrying bows and arrows. All the in- 
“ habitants are white, and only differ from Europeans 
“ by fome of them being much fun-burnt. They 
“ feemed good kind of people, lively and gay in con- 
“ verfation, kind and humane towards each other; 
: and nothing ofthe favage in their manners. Their 


* Wallis named thefe Iflands, Bofcawen and Keppel. 

+ The hiftorical account of Roggewein’s Voyage, brought by 
the prefident de Broffes, was written in French in 1739, by a Ger- 
man, born at Mecklenbourg, Serjeant Major of the troops embark- 
ed on board Roggewein’s ficet. 
“ bodies 


1787 
L 11 bod 
66 {ce 
and 
6 the 
6 ki 

“ heg 
“ fou 
6 W 
13 of | 
66 the 
“ thi 
“ me 


“ thi 

T 
this 
whicl 
vigat( 
equal 
where 
place 
Beau 
whicl 
vigate 
this r 
being 
vance 
Thef 
of S. 
long. 
Sea, : 
pulat 
of wl 
a def 
that. 
only 
made 
and : 

Vo 


[1787 
1 Walliss 


‘ly of thefe 
274 y LL W., 
refpective 
fe iflands; 
n fubject- 
longitude, 
ym the re- 
ferved for 
The difco- 
hers, been 
> to them, 
ut neither 
eople, nor 
iflands by 
orate that 
re: “We 
1 the 12th 
pearance ; 
trees, and 
{cription ; 
Is offered 
and other 
| peopled, 
rith many 
er part of 
\ Il the in- 
uropeans 
t. They 
hy in con- 
ch other; 


rs. Their 


eppel. 
brought by 
, by a Ger- 

Boe embark- 


bodies 


1787. | ROUND THE WORLD: 193 


“bodies were not painted like thofe we had before 
“feen; they were clothed from the waift to the 
“ ancle with fringes of filken ftuff, artfully wrought; 
“their heads were covered with a hat of the fame 
“ kind, very fine and broad, to protect them from the 
“heat of the fun. Some of thefe iflands were ten, 
“ fourteen, and cven twenty miles in circumference. 
“ We called them Beauman’s Iflands, from the name 
“ of the captain of the fhip Tienhoven, who firft faw 
“them. It muft be confeffed (adds the author) that 
“ this is the moft civilized and honeft nation we have 
“ met with in the iflands of the South Sea. . All the 


_ © coafts of thefe iflands have good anchorage in from 


“ thirteen to twenty fathoms water.” 

Thefe particulars, as will be feen by the fequel of 
this chapter, have fcarcely any reference to thofe 
which we have to give concerning the people of Na- 
vigators’ Iflands. As the geographical fituation is 
equally irrelevant, and a German chart ftill exifts, 
whereon Roggewein's courfe is traced, and which 
places thefe iflands in 15°, I am led to believe that 
Beauman’s Iflands are not the fame with thofe to 
which M. de Bougainville has given the name of Na- 
vigators’ Iflands; it befides appears neceffary that 
this name fhould be obferved, to prevent a confufion 
being introduced into geography, whereby the ad- 
vancement of that fcience may be materially injured. 
Thefe iflands are fituated in about the 14th degree 
of S. lat. and between 171 and 175 degrees of W. 
long. from one of the firft archipclagoes of the South 
Sea, as interefting from the arts, production, and po- 
pulation, as thofe of the Society or Friendly Iflands, 
of which the Englifh navigators have given us fuch 
a defcription, as leaves nothing to be wifhed for on 
tb1t head. As to the morality of the people, altho’ 
only with them for an inftant, our misfortunes: have 
made us practically acquainted with their character, 
and we do not hefitate to affirm that it would be in- 
Vou. IT. O effectual 


194 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
effectual to endeavour to excite by kindnefs the gra- 
titude of their ferocious fouls, which are only to be 
kept in awe by fear. 

They are the talleft and beft made iflanders we 
have hitherto met with, their ufual height being 
five feet nine, ten, or eleven inches; but their fta- 
ture is lefs furprifing than the coloflal proportions of 
the different parts of their body. Our curiofity, 
which frequently led us to meafure them, made 
them often compate their bodily ftrength with ours, 
Thefe comparifons were not much to our advantage ; 
and we are perhaps indebted for all our misfortunes 
to the idea of individual fuperiority which they re- 
tained, from thefe different trials: Their counte- 
nances frequently feemed to me to exprefs a fenti- 
ment of difdain, which I thought to deftroy, by or- 
dering our fire arms to be made ufe of before them : 
but this object I could not attain without pointing 
them at fome human victims, for they otherwife con- 
fidered the noife as play, and the proof as a joke. 

_ Very few among thefe iflanders were under the 
fize I have mentioned : I meafured fome who were 
-only five fect four inches, but they are the dwarfs of 
the country ; but although their ftature nearly ap- 
proaches our own, neverthelefs their fitong finewy 
arms, broad chefts, and their legs and thighs are of a 
vety different proportion. They may be faid to be, 
when compared to Europeans, what the Danifh 
horfes are to thofe of the different provinces of 
France. : 

The bodies. of the men are painted or tatooed, fo 
that they might be miftaken for cloathed, although 
almoft naked : they have only a pirdle of fea weeds 
round their loins, which hangs down to their knees, 
and reminds us of the river gods in fabulous hiftory, 
which are delineated with rufhes hanging round 
them. Their hair is very long, and they twift it 
many times round their head, thus adding to the fe- 

cioufnefs 


(1787. 
the gra- 
y to be 


ders we 
t being 
heir fta- 
rtions of 
suriofity, 
n, made 
ith ours, 
vantage ; 
sfortunes 
they re- 
r counte- 
3 a fenti- 
y, by or: 
re them: 
pointing 
wife con- 
| joke. 
under the 
who were 
dwarfs of 
early ap- 
g finewy 
hs are of a 
aid to be, 
e Danifh 
bvinces of 


ntooed, fo 
although 
fea weeds 
eir knecs, 
us hiftory, 
ng round 
ey twift it 
to the fe- 

cioufnefs 


1787.J ROUND THE WORLD. 195 


rocioufnefs of their countenance, always expreffive 
either of furprize oranger. The leaft difpute among 
them is followed by blows of fticks, clubs, or paddles, 
which often, without doubt, cofts the combatants 
their lives. ‘They are covered with fears, a confe- 
quence of thefe particular quarrels. The fize of the 
women is proportionate to that of the men, being tall, 
flender, and not devoid of grace; but they lofe, 
while yet in their prime, that fweetnefs of expreffion, 
that elegance of form, which nature has not with- 
held even from thefe barbarians, although fhe feems 
to have reluctantly beftowed them only for a moment. 
Among a great number of women whom I had an 
opportunity of feeing, I diftinguifhed but three that 
could be called really pretty; the grofs effrontery 
of the others, the indecency of their motions, and the 
difgufting offers they made of their favours, rendered 
them very proper for the mothers or wives of the 
cruel beings that furrounded us. As the hiftory of 
our voyage may add a few pages to that of Man, I 
fhall not expunge fome traits which might feem in- 
decent in any other work. I fhall begin by obferving 
that the very {mall number of young and pretty fe- 
males, whom I have already fpoken of, foon fixed the 
attention of feveral Frenchmen, who, notwithftand- 
ing my prohibition, endeavoured to get connected 
with them. Their looks expreffed defires not very 
difficult to divine, the negotiation for which was 
carried on by fome elderly women. The altar 
was prepared in the handfomeft hut in the village: 
all the blinds were let down, and the inquifitive ex- 
cluded.. The victim was laid in the arms of an old 
man, who, during the ceremony, exhorted her to 
moderate the expreffion of her pain; the matrons 
fang and howled, and the facrifice was confummated 
in their prefence, and under the aufpices of the old 
man, who acted both as prieft and altar. All the 
women and children of the village came about the 

O 2 houfe, 


196 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE L1787. 
houfe, gently lifting up the lattices, and looking for 
the fmalleft crevices im the mats to enjoy this fight, 
Whatever preceding navigators may fay, I am con- 
vinced that in Navigators’ Iflands, at leaft, the young 
girls, before they are married, keep their favours to 
themfelves, and that their campliance does not then 
difhonour them ; it is even more than probable that 
in marrying they are not required'togive any account 
of their paft conduct; but I doubt not they are 
obliged to be more referved when they have a huf- 
band. 

Thefe people have certain arts which they cultivate 
with fucccfs. I have already fpoken of the elegant 
form they give their huts; they difdain, and not 
without reafon, our iron inftruments ; for they give a 


perfect SR to their work with tools made of 


very fine clofe kind of bafaltes, in the form of an 
adze.. For a few beads they fold us three-footcc 
wooden difhes, eut out of the folid piece, and fo po- 
lithed, as to have the appearance of being coated by 
the fineft varnifh. It would have taken good Euro- 
pean workmen many days to execute a fimilar per- 

rmance, which, for want of proper inftruments, 
rauft have coft them feveral months’ labour; they, 
notwithfanding, put hardly any price upon it, the 


time it occupies being oflittle value. The fruit trees 


and nutricious roots growing around them, make their 
fubfiftence, as well as that of their pigs, dogs, and 
fowls, fecure ; and if they fometimes give thenafelves 
up for a fhort time te work, it is only to. procure cn- 
joyments rather agreeable than of ufe. ‘They manu- 
facture extremely fine mats and paper ftuffs. I ob- 


ferved two: or three of thefe iflanders, who appeared 


to be chiefs; they had, inftead of a girdle of weeds 
about their wait, a piece of cloth hung round then, 
like a petticoat. The weft is compofed of real 
thread, extracted, no doubt,.from foie filamentous 


plant, fuch as the nettle oz flax ; it is made without 


a fhuttie. 


1787 
a {nt 
cach 
whic 
well 
poire 
and | 
and ¢ 


more 
a fim 
proof 
LM | 
youn 
Taga 
expla 
the T 
pine 
lang 
Gree 
tions 
me 1 
rife f 
riods 
the ( 
tiqui 
thef 
that 

Guit 
&c. 

rolin 
Nor 
ed P4 
thei 
not 


[1787. 
king for 
is fight. 
am con- 
€ young 
Ours to 
ot then 
ble that 
account 
hey are 


ea hut 


ultivate 
elegant 
and not 
ey give a 


m of an 
e-footcc 
d fo po- 
vated by 
xd Euro- 
ilar per- 
ruments, 
r; they, 
nit, the 
ruit trees: 
ake their 
ogs, and 
ensfelves 
cure cn- 
y manu- 
. I ob- 
appeared 
of weeds 
id thein, 

of real 
mentous 


without, 


a fhutt!e. 


made of 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 107 
a fhuttle, and the threads abfolutely pafs between 
cach other, like thofe of their mats. This cloth, 
which has all the fupplenefs and folidity of ours, is 
well adapted for the fuils of their canoes; it feems to 
poffefs a fuperiority over the paper-fiuff of the Society 
and Friendly Iflands, which they alfo manufacture, 
and of which they fold us feveral pieces; they, how- 
ever, make but little, and it is not much in ufe, the 
women preferring the fine mats I have juft mentioned. 
At firtt we difcovered no affinity between their 
language and that of the people of the igen and 
Friendly Iflands, whofe vocabularies we had; but on 
more mature examination, we found that they fpoke 
a fimilar dialect. One fact which may ferve for fome 
proof of it, and which confirms the opinion the Eng- 
lih had on the origin of thefe inhabitants, is, that a 
young Manillefe fervant, born in the province of 
Tagayan, to the north of Manilla, underftood and 
explained the greateft part of their words. We know 
the Tagayan, Talgale, and generally all the Philip- 
pine languages, are derived fram the Malay, and this 
language, more widely diffufed than that of cither the 
Grecks or Romans, is common to the numerous na- 
tions inhabiting the iflands of the South Sea. ‘To 
me it is evident, that thefe different nations take their 
rife from Malay colonies, which at very remote pe- 
riods reduced thefe iflands under fubjcéion ; and 
the Chinefe and Egyptians, with all their boafted an- 
tiquity, may perhaps be moderns in comparifon te 
thefe. But let this be as it may, I am convinced 
that the aborigines of the Philippines, Formofa, New 
Guinea, New Britain, the Hebrides, Friendly Iflands, 
&c. in the Southern hemifphere, and thofe of the Ca- 
rolincs, Mariannes and Sandwich Jflands, in the 
Northern hemifphere, were this race of woolly head- 
ed people who are fill to be found in the interior of 
the iflands of Luconia and Formofa. ‘They could 
not be fubjected in New Guinca, New Britain, and 
O 3 the 


198 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 
the New Hebrides, but were overcome in the iflands 
more to the eaft, the centre of which being too fmall to 
afford them a retreat, they mixed with their conque- 
rors, whence has refulted a very black race of people, 
whofe colour full preferves fome fhades deeper 1 
thofe of certain other families of the country, sich 
they probably make a point of honour to keep un- 
mixed. Thefe two very diftinct races ftruck me at 
Navigators’ Hlands, and this is the only origin I can 
attribute to them. 

The .defcendants of the Malays, in thefe islands 
have acquired a vigour, ftrength, ftature, and propor- 
tion which they do not derive from their forefathers, 
and which is undoubtedly owing to the abundance of 
food, mildnefs of climate, and influence of phyfi- 
gal caufes, which during a long feries of generations, 
have been conftantly in action. The arts which they 
perhaps may have introduced, will be loft for want of 
proper inftruments and materials to exercife them ; 
but the identity of language, like the clue of Ariadne, 
enables the obferver to follow all the windings of this 
new labyrinth. The feudal government is alfo pre- 
ferved here, that government which ‘petty tyrants 
may reject, which for feveral ages has fullied Europe, 
the Gothic remains of which are fill to be found in 
our laws, and are the medals which bear witnefs to 
our ancient barbarifm ; this government, I fay, is the 
fitteft for preferving a ferocioufnefs of manners, be- 
caufe the moft trifling concerns excite wars of one 
village upon another, which are carried on without 
magnanimity or courage ; furprife and treachery are 
alternately made ufe of ; and hence, in thefe unhap- 
py countries, inflead of meeting with generous open- 
hearted warriors, are found only the bafcft affaffins. 
The Malays are even at this day the moft perfidious 
people of Afia, and their children are ftill degenerate, 
becaufe the fame caufes have prepared and produced 
the fame effects. It will as À be objected, that it 

muft 


[1787. 
he iflands 
bo finall to 
conque- 
of people, 
eper than 
ry, which 
keep un- 
k me at 
gin I can 


fe. islands 
id propor- 
brefathers, 
ndance of 
of phyfi- 
erations, 
hich they 
br want of 
fe them ; 
Ariadne, 
1g of this 
al pre- 
y tyrants 
1 Europe, 
found in 
vitnefs to 
fay, is the 
ners, be- 
rs of one 
1 without 
chery are 
e unhap- 
US Open- 
-affaffins. 
erfidious 
generate, 


produced . 


d, that it 
muft 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 199 


muft have becn very difficult for the Malays to make 
their way from weft to eaft, to arrive at thefe different 
iflands; but the wefterly winds are at leaft as fre- 
quent as the eafterly about the equator, in a zone of 
feven or eight degrees north and fouth, and they are 
f variable that the navigation is fcarcely more diffi- 
cult one way than the other. Befides, thefe differ- 
ent conquefts did not take place at the fame time. 
This people has extended by degrees, and gradually 
introduced that form of government which ftill exifts 
in the peninfula of Malacca, at Java, Sumatra, Bor- 
neo, and all the countries fubdued by this barbarous 
nation. Among fifteen or eighten hundred inhabi- 
tants that we had the opportunity of obferving, at 
leaft thirty had the appearance of chiefs, keeping up 
a kind of police, and dealing their blows pretty li- 
berally with fticks, but the order they had the ap- 
pearance of wifhing to eftablifh, was tran{fgreffed in: 
lefs than a minute; never were fovereigns worfe . 
obeyed ; never were diforders more frequently excited 
by anarchy and infubordination. 

' M. de Bougainville has not denominated them the 
Navigators without reafon; all their voyages being’ 
made in canoes, and never fo much as walking even 
from one village to another. The villages are all 
fituated in creeks on the fea fide, and have no paths 
but for penetrating into the interior of the country. 
The iflands where we touched were clothed up to 
the very fummit with trees laden with fruit, on 
which wood-pigeons, and green, rofe, and different 
coloured turtle-doves repofed; we alfo faw fome 
beautiful parroquets or {pecies of blackbirds, and corn 
is Thefe iflanders amufe themfelves in their 
eifure hours by taming birds; their houfes were full 
of wood-pigeons, which they bartered with us by 
hundreds; they likewife fold us 300 gallinules, of : 
the moft beautiful plumage. MAS 

Their canoes have outriggers, are very fmall, and 
je O 4 common- 


200 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 


commonly hold but five or fix perfons, a very {mall 
number may, however, contain as many as fourteen. 
They do not appear to merit the culogium beftowed 
by navigators on their fwiftncfs, which I do not be- 
lieve exceeds feven knots an hour under fail, and 
they could not keep up to us with paddles, when we 
made but four miles an hour. Thefe Indians are 
fuch expert fwimmers, that their canoes feem only to 
ferve them to reft in. As they fill on the leaft falfe 
movement, they are every inftant obliged to jump 
into the fea, take their finking canoes upon their 
fhoulders and empty out the water. They fomctimes, 
join two together by means of a piece of wood laid 
acrofs, in which is placed a ftep to receive the maft. 
In this manner they are not fo ticklifh, and the na- 
tives can preferve their provifions during long voyages. 
Their fails are of mat, or of matted cloth, are fpread 
by a fprit, and do not deferve particular notice. 
Their only modes of fifhing are with hook and line, 
and {weep net; they fold us fome nets, and baits of mo- 
ther of pearl and white fhell, very curioufly wrought. 
Thefe inftruments are in the form of flying fifh, and 
ferve as a cafe for a hook of tortoife fhell, ftrong 


enough to hold a tunny, boneta, or dorado. They | 


change the largeft fifh for a few glafs beads, and it 
was clear by their eagernefs, they were in no fear of 

wanting food. à 
The iflands I have been at, of this archipelago, ap- 
peared to be volcanic; all the ftones on the beach 
upon which the fea breaks with fuch farce, as to. 
throw the water more than fifty feet high, being only 
pieces of lava, round bafaltes or coral, by which the 
ifland is wholly furrounded. This coral leaves in the 
middle of moft of the creeks, a narrow paflage wide 
enough for canoes, or even for boats and long-boats, 
thus forming little harbours for the navy of the 
iflanders, who, however, never leave their canocs in 
the water, but on coming on fhore draw them up ae 
ay their 


likewi 
like tl 
the di 
Meñi 
lowed 
prude 
to us 
tanica 
for ev 
and tl 
purfu 


[1787. 
ry {mall 
fourteen, 
beftowed 
not be- 
fail, and 
when we 
lians are 
n only to 
eaft falfe 
to jump. 
on their 
mctimes, 
yood laid 
the maft, 
| the na- 
voyages. 
re fprea 

ce. | 

and line, 
ts of mo- 
vrought. 
fifh, and 
, ftrong 


They . 


, and it 
o fear of 


ago, ap- 
e beach 
e, as to: 
ing only 
ch the 
ps in the 
ge wide 
g-boats, 
of the 
Anocs in 


up near 
their 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 201 


their houfes, under the fhade of trees; as they are 
fo light that two men can carry them on their fhoul- 
ders without difficulty. 

The moft lively imagination would find it difficult 
to paint fituations more agreeable than their villages. 
All the houfes are built under fruit trees, which keep 
them delightfully cool. They are feated on the fide 
of a brook running down from the mountains, along 
which is a path leading into the interior of the ifland. 
The principal object of their architecture, is to pro- 
tect them from the heat, and I have already faid, that 
they knew how to join elegance witt it. Thefe 


houfes, large enough for feveral fainilies, are fur- 


rounded by lattices which they open on the wind- 
ward, and fhut on the funny fide. The Iflanders 
fleep on yery fine mats, perfectly clean, and com- 
pleatly out of the reach of damp. We faw no mo- 
raiand can fay nothing of their religious ceremonies. 

Thefe iflands bound in pigs, dogs, fowls, birds, and 
fifh, and areccv: 4 likewife with cocoa, goyava, and 
banana trees, : . «nother tree bearing a large al- 
mond, which is cat roafted, and much refembles the 
chefnut in flavour, Sugar canes fpontancoufly grow 
on the banks of the rivers: but they are watery, and 
not fo fweet as thofe of our colonies; this differ- 
ence probably arifes from their growing in the fhade, 
and in too rich and uncultivated a foil. Here are 
likewife found fome /ouches, whofe roots are nearly 
like thofe of the yam or camagnoc. However great 
the danger of penetrating the interior of the ifland, 
Meffieurs de la Martinière and Collignon, rather fol- 
lowed the impulfe of their zeal, than the diétates of 
prudence, and while the landing, which was fo fatal 
to us took place, pufhed into the ifland to make bo- 
tanical refearches. The Indians exacted a glafs bead 
for every herb that M. de la Martinière picked up, 


and threatened to knock them down if they refufed; . 


purfued by a fhower of ftones, he at the moment of 
the 


- 


402 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 
the maffacre fwam to the barge, with his: bag of 
plants at his back, and thus fuccceded in preferving 
them. Till then we had feen no arms but clubs, ox 
patow-patows ; but M. Boutin aflured us that he had 
feen many bundles of arrows in their hands without 
any bow. I am inclined to believe that thefe arrows 
are only lances which they ufe to ftrike fith with, 
they would haye been of far lefs dangerous effect in 
combat than ftones of two or three pound weight, 
whica they throw with inconceivable force and ad- 
drefs. Thefe iflands are extremely fruitful, and | 
believe their population ta be very confiderable. 
The eaftern ones, Opun, Léoné, and Fanfoué are 
fmall. The two laft are only about five miles in cir- 
cumference ; but Maouna, Oyolava, and Pola, mutt 
be reckoned among the largeft and moft beautiful 
iflands of the South Sea. The accaunts of different 
navigators, prefent nothing to our imagination which 
can at all ftand in competition with the beauty and 
great extent of the village to leeward, of which we 
lay to on the northern coaft of Oyolava. Although 
it was almoft night when we arrived, we were immne- 
diately furrounded by canoes, which either from cu- 
riofity or the delire of bartering with us, had left their 
harbours ; many having no objects of traffic on baard, 
came only to enjoy a fight fo entirely new to them. 
Some of them extremely fmall and much ornamcnt- 
ed, were capable of containing only one man; and 
as thefe went round about the fhips without offering 
us any thing in exchange, we called them whi/kus ; 
they had their inconveniencies, the flighteft touch of 
another canoe upfetting them in an inftant. We 
likewife eaine very near to the great and fuperb ifland 
of Pola, but had no intercourie with its inhabitants. 
On coming round the weftern part of this laft ifland, 
we perceived a fmooth fea, which feemed to promife 
good anchorage, at leaft while the winds blew from 
the eaftward; but the ferment among the crew 

was 


confid 
not to 
fining 
pelago 
. Wh 
ifland 
three 

Offam 
to the 
to the 
by bre 
cight 

fuccef 
to mal 
fight o 
nearly 
had pa 
firft, b 
north. 
day, bi 
two ot 
to be 

Cocoa 
covere 
meter. 
nel of 
that w 


(1787. 
his: bag of 
preferving 
t clubs, or 
hat ‘he had 
ds without 
efe arrows 
fith with; 
is effect in 
id weight, 
€ and ad- 
ful, and | 
nfiderable, 
anfoué are 
iles in cir- 
Pola, muft 
t beautiful 
f different 
ion which 
eauty and 
which we 


Although 
ere imine- 
r from cu. 
1 left their 
on board, 
y to them. 


ornamcnt- 
man : and 
it offering 

whifkies ; 
{t touch of 
ant. We 
yerb ifland 
habitants. 
laft ifland, 
to promife 
blew from 


the crew 


was 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 203 
was ftill too great to let me think of coming to an 
anchar.. After what had happened, I could nat pru- 
dently fend the failors on fhore without arming every 
man with a mufket, and putting a fwivel in each boat; 
but then the confcioufnefs of their own ftrength in- 
creafing their defire for revenge, might probably have 
induced them to reprefs the fmallett act of injuftice 
the iflanders were guilty of, by firing upon them. 
Befides, in thefe bad anchoring grounds a fhip is ex- 
pofed to being loft, without a boat capable of carrying, 
out an anchar whereby fhe may be warped aut. Thefe 
confiderations made me refolve, as I have before faid, 
not to anchor until I fhould reach Botany Bay, con- 
fining myfelf to fuch tracks, in thefe different archi- 
pelagoes, as might lead to new difcoveries. 
. When we had doubled the weftern coaft of the 
ifland of Pola, we faw no more land; not even the 
three iflands which the natives’ had called Shika, 
Offamo, and Ouera, and which they had laid down 
to the fouth of Oyolava. I ufed every effort to fteer 
to the 8. S. E., which I was at firft prevented from 
by breezes from E. S. E. fo light, that we ran but 
cight or ten leagues a day. They at laft fhifted 
fucceffively to the N. and N. W. which enabled me 
to make in eafting my courfe, and on the 20th I got 
fight ofa round ifland due touth from Oyolava, and 
nearly forty leagues off. M. de Bougainville, who 
had paffed betwecn thefe two iflands, did not fee the 
firft, becaufe he was fome leagues too much to the 
north. A calm prevented me from nearing it this 
day, but the next I came within two miles, and faw 
two other iflands to the fouth, which I at once knew 
to be the Cocoa and Traitors’ Iflands of Schouten. 
Cocoa Ifland is very high, in the form of a fugar loaf, 
covcred with trees to the top, about a league in dia- 
meter. It is feparated from Traitors’ Ifland by achan- 
nel of about three miles acrofs, interfected by an iflot 
that we faw at the north-eafterly point of the ifland, 
| | which 


204 LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


which is low and flat, and has only a high hill towards 
the middle : it is divided into two parts by a channel 
150 toifes wide at the mouth. Schouten had no op- 
portunity for feeing it, as he muft have been in the 
point of the compafs where the paflage is open ; we 
fhould not even have fufpected its exiftence, had we 
not ran very clofe along this part of the ifland. We 
had no longer any doubt of thefe being the three 
iflands (only two of which deferve the name) that 
formed part of the ten compofing Navigators” Archi- 
pelago. As the wind blew very frefh from the N. W, 
and the weather bore a threatening afpect, we were 
not much furprifed to fee no canoe come along fide, 
and I refolved to ftand off and on all night, in order to 
reconnoitre the iflands the next day, and barter for 
fome refrefhments with the iflanders. The weather 
was fqually, and the wind varying only from N, W, 
toN. N.W. Thad perceived fome Acikens on the 


N.W. point of Little Traitors” Ifland, which made me 
gain a greater offing. At day break I nearcd this 


laft mentioned island, which being low and more ex- 
tenfive than Cocoa Island, I thought muft be better 
peopled, and at eight o’clock in the morning brought 
to, to the W. S. W. two milcs from a large fandy 
bay in the weflern part of Great Traitors’ Island, and 
where I had no doubt of finding anchorage, fheltered 
from the eafterly winds. 

About twenty canoes immediately left the coaft, 
and approached the two frigates, for the purpofe of 
making exchanges ; feveral likewife came out of the 
channel which divides Traitors’ Island. They were 
Joaded with the fineft cocoa-nuts I had ever before 
feen, a few bananas, and fome yams, and only had 
a fmall pig and three or four fowls. It is evident 
thefe Indians had already feen or heard fpeak of 
Europeans; they approached without fear, traded 
with great honefty, and never refufed, like the n1- 
tives of Navigators’ Archipclago, to give their fruits 
; before 


1787.] 
before t 
jeces O 
hey, | 
the fam 
tatooed 
doubt c 
they dif 
off fron 
vigators 
had und 
much {] 
doubt, 
being Id 
of the 
called 
the part 
attacked 
eaft of 
Traitors 
of Mao 
nated it 
had cha 
the Ind 
injuftice 
our arm 
refentm 
and thre 
do it ag 
times p 
any thit 
coming 
and for 
us that 
it is we 
reftrain 
The 
dians fo 


Quall. | 


L1787. 

ill towards 
a channel 
ad no Op- 
een in the 
open ; we 
€, had we 
ind. We 
the three 
ame) that 
rs” Archi- 
he N. W, 
we were 
long: fide, 
n order to 
barter for 
e weather 
m N, W, 
ers on the 
| made me 
sared this 
more ex- 

be better 

g brought 
urge fandy 
sland, and 
fheltered 


the coatt, 
urpofc of 
out of the 
hey were 
ver before 
only had 
is evident 
{peak of 
ar, traded 
e the n- 
heir fruits 


before 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. . 205. 


before they received payment for them; they took. 
ieces of iron and nails, with the fame avidity as beads, 

hey, however, fpoke the fame language, and had. 
the fame ferocious look; their dtefs, manner of being 
tatooed, and canoes, were likewife fimilar, and no. 
doubt could arife of their being the fame people ; 
they differed, indeed, in all having two joints cut 
off from the little finger of the left hand, as in Na-. 
vigators’ Islands I never faw but two individuals who 
had undergone this amputation : they were likewife 
much fhorter, and lefs gigantic ; this difference, no 
doubt, arifes from the foil of thefe islauds, which 
being lefs fertile, is alfo lefs favourablg to the growth 
of the human fpecies. Every islawd that we faw, 
called to mind fome mark or other of treachery, on 
the part of the islanders. Roggewein’s crew had been 
attacked and ftoned at Recreation Islands, to the 
eaft of Navigators’ Islands; Schouten’s crew, at 
Traitors’ Island, which was in fight, and tothe fouth 
of Maouna, where part of our own had been aflafii- 
nated in fo atrocious a-manner. Thefe reflections: 
had changed our manner of aéling, with refpect to 
the Indians ; we repelled the moft trifling thefts and 
injuftice by force, fhewing them, by the effect of 
our arms, that flight could not fave them from our 
refentment : we refufed to let them come on board, 
and threatened to punifh with death thofc who would 
do it againft our will. This conduct was a hundred 
times preferable to our firft moderation, and if we had 
any thing to regret, it was that we had ever fince our 
coming to them made ufe of principles of mildnefs 
and forbearance. Reafon and common fenfe tell 
us that it is right to employ force againft a man, who 
it is well known would be our aflaffin if he were not 
tefirained by fear. 

The 23d, at noon, while bartering with thefe In- 
dians for cocoa-nuts, we were aflailed by a very heavy. 
{uall from N. N. W. which difperted the canoes : 

many 


206 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1787. 


many were overfet, and, after having righted again, 
paddled away with their utmoft ftrength to land, Not- 
withftanding the weather bore a menacing appearance, 
we made the circuit of Traitors’ Ifland, to difcover all 
its points, and take a correct plan of it. M. Dagelct 
had taken very good obfervations of the latitude, at 
noon, and in the morning, of the longitude of the 
two iflands, which put it in his power to rectify the 
pofition Captain Wallis affigned them. At four 
o'clock I made the fignal for ficering S. S, E., towards 
the archipelago of the Friendly Iflands ; of which I 
propofed reconnoitring fuch as Captain Cook had not 
the opportunity of exploring. Thefe muft, accord- 
ing to his account, be to the north of Inahomooka. 


CHAP. XXVI. 


DEPARTURE FROM NAVIGATORS ISLANDS—WE DIRECT 
OUR ROUTE TOWARDS THE FRIENDLY. ISLANDS— 
FALL IN WITH THE ISLAND OF VAVAO, AND DIF- 
FERENT ISLANDS OF THIS ARCHIPELAGO VERY IN- 
ACCURATELY LAID DOWN ON THE CHARTS—THE 
INHABITANTS OF TONGATABOO HASTEN TO COME 
ON BOARD AND TRADE WITH US—WE ANCHOR AT 
NORFOLK ISLAND—DESCRIPTION OF THAT ISLAND 
——ARRIVAL AT ROTANY BAY, } 


HE night after our departure from Traitors’ 
Ifland was dreadful ; the winds fhifted, and 
blew hard from the weft, with a great deal of rain. 
As, at fun-fet, the extent of the horizon was not one 
league, I lay to until day light, with the fhip’s head to 
the S. S. W., the wefterly wind fill continuing vio- 
lent, with abundance of rain. 
All thofe who. had fymptoms of fcurvy fuffered 
prodigioufly 


1787. 
prodig 
was a 
partic 
I att 

whic 

vants 
cufto 
Davic 
fcorb 
boar 

we Of 
we I 

of a 

age a 
weak, 
the le 
maki 
patled 
poffi 

to E 
plete. 
I thir 
cious 
in ho 
ed, : 
brant 
their 
hogs 
fourc 
were 
tuals 


[1787. 
hted again, 
land. Not- 
appearance, 
difcover all 
M. Dagelct 
latitude, at 
ude of the 
rectify the 

At four 
E., towards 
of which I 
ook had not 
ft, accord- 
1homooka. 


WE DIRECT 
ISLANDS— 
, AND DIF- 
O VERY IN- 
ARTS—-THE 
N TO COME 
ANCHOR AT 
LAT ISLAND 


mn Traitors’ 
ifted, and 
eal of rain. 
as not one 
ip’s head to 
inuing vio- 


fuffered 
rodigioufly 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 207 
rodigioufly from the damp. Not one of the crew 
wasattacked by this difeafe, but the officers, and 
particularly our fervants, began to feel its advances : 
J attributed it to the fcarcity of frefh provifions, 
which the failors were lefs affected by than the fer- 
vants, who had never been at fea, and were not ac- 
cuftomed to do without it. One of the name of 
David, the gun-reom cook, died, on the 10th, of a 
fcorbutic dropfy.: Since Icaving Breft, no one on 
board the Bouflole had died a natural death, and had 
we only made an ordinary voyage round the world, 
we might have returned to Europe without the lofs 
of a fingle man. ‘The laft mouths indeed of a voy- 
age are the moft difficult to fuftain, the body grows 
weaker by time, and the provifions fpoil; but if, in 
the length of voyages undertaken for the purpofe of 
making difcoveries, there are bounds which cannot be 
pañled, it is important to know thofe whereto it is 
poffible to attain ; and, I believe, that on our return 
to Europe, our experience on this head will be com- 
plete. Of all the known prefervatives againft fcurvy, 
I think that molaffes and fpruce-beer are moft. effica- 
cious. Our fhips’ companies conftantly drank them 
in hot climates : a bottle per man was daily diftribut- 
ed, with half a pint of wine, and a fmall glafs of 
brandy, mixed with a great deal of water; this made 
their other provifions palatable. The quantity of 
hogs we procured at Maouna was but a tranfitory re- 
fource : as we could neither falt them, becaufe they 
were too fmall, nor keep them alive for want of vic- 
tuals to feed them on, I determined to diftribute 
fome twice a day to the crew, when the fwelling of 
the legs, and every fcorbutic fymptom difappeared. 
This new regimen had the fame effect on our health 
as a long fiay in port, which proves, that failors have 
lefs urgent need of land air than falubrious food. 
The N. N. W. winds followed us beyond the 
archipelago of the Friendly Iflands, always accompa- 
nied 


208 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787 


nied with rain, and often as ftrong as the weft winds 
which are met with in winter on the coaft of Bri. 
tanny. We very well knew that the winter feafon 
had commenced, and, confequently, ftorms and hur. 
ricanes ; but we were not prepared for fuch continual 
bad weather. The 27th December we difcovered 
the ifland of Vavao, the northern point of which, at 
noon, bore exaétly weft ; our latitude was 18° 34’, 
This ifland, which Captain Cook had never been at, 
but had been informed of by the inhabitants of the 
Friendly Iflands, is one of the moft confiderable of 
this archipelago, nearly equalling in extent that of 
Tongataboo ; but it has this advantage over it, that 
from being more elevated, it is never in want of freth 
water. It ftands in the centre of a number of other 
iflands, which muft retain the names Captain Cook 
has given a lift of, but which would be very difficult 
for us to clafs. We could not, without injuftice, 
claim the honour of this difcovery, which is due to 
Maurelle, the pilot, who has added to the archipelago 
of the Friendly Iflands almoft as many more as had 
been already explored by Captain Cook. 
. I procured, at China, an extract from this Spanifh 
pilot’s journal, who left Manilla in 1781, charged 
with a commiffion for America, whither he purpofed 
going by the fouthern hemifphere, by nearly follow- 
ing the track of M. de Surville, and endeavouring 
to reach the high latitudes, where he reafonably ex- 
pected to mcet with wefterly winds. This navigator 
was not acquainted with the new methods of deter- 
mining the longitude, nor had he read any of the ac- 
counts of modern voyages : he fteeted by Bellin’s old 
French maps, and made amends, by the greateft accu- 
racy in his reckoning, and in taking bearings, for the 
imperfections of his method, inftruments, and charts. 
He coafted, Jike M. de Surville, along New Ireland, 
faw feveral fmall iflands which De Bougainville, Car- 
teret, and Surville, had already noticed: sisal 
three 


1787 
three 
Solot 
vao, | 
affor 
in wi 
eaft d 
plete 
on ac 
rived 
ort, 
of pr 
fo tr 
F set 
trait « 
all tt 
feems 
I fhal 
whict 
Mau 
Vlana 
New 
vex, f 
the I 
ferabl 
beft t 
plan | 
and | 
exact 
thefe 
copies 
would 
real e 
Wi 
Ifland 
kept — 
night. 
purpo 
leagu 
Vo 


[1787 
vett winds 
aft of Bri. 
ter feafon 
sand hur. 
| continual 
difcovered 
which, at 
s 18° 34’, 
er been at, 
ints of the 
iderable of 
nt that of 
er it, that 
nt of frefh 
r of other 
stain Cook 
ry difficult 
, injuttice, 

is due to 
rchipelago 
pre as had 


is Spanifh 
» charged 
© purpofed 
rly follow- 
leavouring: 
onably ex- 
s navigator 
s of deter- 
of the ac- 
Bellin’s old 
ateft accu- 
gs, for the 
nnd charts. 
pw Ireland, 
ville, Car- 
difcovered 

three 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD. 209 


three or four new ones, and, thinking himfelf near 
Solomon’s Iflands, firft fell in with, northward of Va- 
yao, an ifland which he called Margoura, becaufe it 
afforded him none of the refrefhments he began to be 
in want of. He had not an opportunity of feeing to 
eaft of it a fecond ifland, of which we got a com- 
plete view, that can only be feen three or four leagues, 
on account of its being very low. At length he ar- 
rived at Vavao, where he anchored in a commodious 
port, and took in water, and a confiderable quantity 
of provifions. The particulars of his account were 
fo true, that it was impoffible not to recognize the 
Friendly Iflands, and equally fo to miftake the por- 
trait of Poulaho, who, being the principal Chief of 
all the iflands, dwells indifferently in feveral, but 
feems to make Vavao his particular place of refidence. 
I fhall not enter into any other details of this voyage, 
which I only mentioned out of juftice to the pilot 
Maurelle. He had named the groupe of Vavao, the 
Iflands of Majorca, after the name of the Viceroy of 
New Spain, and that of Hapace, the [ands of Gal- 
vez, from the name of the brother of the minifter of 
the Indies; but convinced that it is infinitely pre- 
ferable to preferve the country names, I thought it 
beft to make ufe of them in M. Bernizet’s plan. This 
plan has been conftruéted according to the latitudes 
and longitudes determined by M. Dagelet, far more 
exact than thofe of the Spanifh navigator, who placed 
thefe iflands about fix degrees too far weft ; this error, 
copied from ageto age, and fanétioned by geographers, 
would have given birth to a new archipelago, whofe 
rcal exiftence would have been on the charts alone. 
We kept plying on the 27th, to approach the 
Ifland of Vavao, from whence the W. N. W. wind 
kept us at a little diftance. Having, during the 


night, tacked and ftretched to the north, for the 


purpofe of extending my view twelve or fifteen 
leagues beyond the ifiand, I got fight of that of 
Vor. II. P Margoura 


210 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787 


Margoura of Maurelle, which bore weft, and having 
approached it, faw another very flat ifland, covered 
with trees. The ifland of Margoura is, on the con- 
trary, high, and moft probably both of them are in- 
habited. After we had taken all our bearings, I 
bore up for that of Vavao, which was only diftin- 
guifhable from the maft head. It is the moft con- 
fiderable of the archipelago of the Friendly Iflands ; 
the others; fcattered to the north or weft, cannot 
be compared to this laft. ‘Towards noon 1 was at 
the mouth of the port, in which Maurelle had an- 
chored ; it is formed by fmall elevated islands, having 
between them narrow but very deep paffages, and 
completely fheltering veflels from the winds blowing 
in from the offing. This port, very much fuperior to 
that of Tongataboo, would have been a great conve- 
nience to pafs fome days in, but the anchoring-place 
is within two cables’ length of fhore, and in this po- 
fition a long-boat is often neceffary to carry out an 
anchor, in order to get off the coaft. I was tempted 
every inftant to renounce the plan I had formed on 
leaving Maouna, to put into no port before I made 
Botany Bay, but reafon and prudence kept me 
firm. Being, however, defirous of getting acquainted 
with the islanders, I brought to near the fhore ; no 
canoe, however, came near the frigates, which did 
not furprife me, and was doubtlefs owing to the 


badnefs of the weather, and threatening appearance of 


the fky; and as the horizon became every minute more 
overeatt, I, before night, ftood to the weft, towards 
the Island of Latté, which I perceived ; and which, 
in Clear weather, is high enough to be feen at the 
diftance uf twenty leagues. This name of Latté is 
comprehended, in Capt. Cook’s lift of the Friendly 
Islands ; and had been affigned to this fame island 
by Maurelle, in his journal, from the information of 
the islanders of Vavao, by whom he was befides told 
that it was inhabited; and that fhips might anchor 
there. 


1787. | 
there. FE 
to geogra 
like form 
we had bc 
longitude, 
this ifland 
archipelag 
in languag 
been fuffic 
well know 
though ve 
the identit 
form and « 
ing proof « 
The foll 
which env 
poffible to 
fituated, it 
tinue our | 
and I refol 
it was eve 
ter had fall 
fibly rage 
nounced b 
I, notwith 
and appro 
however, t 
Under this 
as to be ob 
and Toofo: 
imperceptil 
were firft 
who had e 
which fepa 
rately dete 
a matter o 
with the lo 
pofed inded 


787, 
ving 
ered 
con- 
* in- 
rs, I 
ftin- 
con- 
ads ; 
nnot 
is at 
| an- 
ving 
and 
wing 
or to 


nve- 
place 
$ po- 
it an 
pted 


d on 
nade 

me 
inted 
; no 
1 did 
» the 
ce of 
more 
rards 
hich, 
tthe 
tté is 
endly 
land 
bn of 
s told 
chor 
here. 


1787.| ROUND THE WORLD. 211 


there. Here may be feen of what importance it is, 
to geography to preferve the country names, for if, 
like former navigators, or even Maurelle himfelf, 
we had been feven or eight degrees wrong in our 
longitude, we might have fuppofed, on falling in with 
this ifland, that we were at a great diftance from the 
archipelago of the Friendly Iflands. The conformity 
in language, manners, and drefs, would not have 
been fufficient to remove our fcruples, becaufe it is 
well known that all thefe people have a refemblance, 
though very far diftant from each other; whereas, 
the identity of name, and flighteft defcription of the 
form and extent of this ifland, would be a convinc- 
ing proof of the identity of the place. 

The following night was dreadful ; the darknefs, 
which enveloped us, was fo thick, that it was im- 
poffible to diftinguifh any thing around us. Thus 
fituated, it would have been very imprudent to con 
tinue our courfe in the midft of fo many iflands ; 
and I refolved to make fhort tacks till day break, but 
it was even more flormy than the night ; the barome- 
ter had fallen three lines, and if a hurricane could pof- 
fibly rage with greater violence, it could not be an- 
nounced by weather of a more threatening appearance. 
I, notwithftanding, ftood on for the Ifland of Latté, 
and approached it within two miles ; very certain, 
however, that no canoe would hazard putting to fea. 
Under this ifland I was fo borne down by a fquall, 
as to be obliged to bear up towards the Iflands Kao 
and Toofoa, which we could not but be near, though 
imperceptible through the fog. Thefe two iflands 
were firft laid down on the plan of Captain Cook, 
who had entered the channel, two miles in brezath, 
which feparates the one from the other, and had accu-. 
rately determined their latituce and lon,zitude, It was 
a matter of great importance, te compare the latter 
with the longitude given by our time-keepers, I pro- 
pofed indeed to go near enough to Tongataboo, to 

P2 complete 


212 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
complete the comparifon. M. Dagelei very properly 
confidered the obfervatory of Tongataboo, the fame as 
that of Greenwich, fince its pofition was determined 
by the refult of more than 10,000 fets of obfervations 
take.. ‘an the fpace of four or five months, by the inde- 
fatigable Capt. Cook. At five o’clock in the evening, 
the weather clearing up, brought to view Kao Island, 
whofe form is that of a very high cone, whicli may 
be feen, in fine weather, thirty leagues. Toofoa 
Island, though alfo very high, did ot fhew itfelf, 
but remained concealed in the fog. I pafled the 
night as the preceding one, ftanding off and on, but 
under the maintop and forefail only, the wind blow- 
ing fo frefh that we could carry no other fail. The 
next morning was tolerably clear, and at fun-rife 
we got fight of the Islands of Kao and Toofoa. | 
came. within half a league of Toofoa, and convinced 
myfelf that it was uninhabited, at leaft in three parts 
of its circumference, for I was near enough the 
coaft to diftinguifh the flones cu the beach. This 
island is very mountainous, flezp, and covered with 
trees to the top. It may be four leagues round. | 
think that the islanders of Tongataboo, and the 
other Friendly Islands, often land there in fine wea- 
ther, to cut down trees, and very probably build their 
canoes, for in their flat iflands they want wood, where 
they have only preferved thofe trees which, like the 
cocoa-palm, bear fruit for their fubfiftence. In run- 
ning along this island, we faw feveral slides, whereby 
the trees felled on the brow of the mountains roll 
down to the fea fide; but there were neither huts 
nor cleared ground in the woods, nor any thing in 
fhort which befpoke its being inhabited. In this 
way, continuing our track towards the two little 
Islands of Hoonga-tonga and Hoonga-hapaec, we 
fhut in Kao Ifland with the middle of Toofoa, fo that 
the firft only feemed the fummit of the fecond, and 
its bearing, in this pofition, was N. 279 E. Kao 

és ri Island 


1787 
iflan 
and 
lefs 1 
ferve 
the f 
a cot 
tute 
it is 
ofla 
I 
of H 
clude 
Cook 
very 
whos 
nortt 
tong 
leagu 
for n 
mou 
fhew 
The 
hapa 
to be 
mom 
to ta 
point 
them 
chan 
whic 
two | 
iflanc 
We. 
fix 0’ 
trecs, 
In pr 
only 


diem. 


[1787. 

7 properl 
he fame 4 
termined 
fervations 
the inde. 
> evening, 
ao Island, 
hich may 
Toofoa 
hew itfelf, 
paffed the 
id on, but 
ind blow- 
fail. The 
it fun-rife 
‘oofoa. I 
convinced 
hree parts 
iough the 
ch. This 
yered with 
round. I 
and the 
fine wea- 
build their 
yod, where 
h, like the 
In run- 
| whereby 
ntains roll 
‘ither huts 
y thing in 
In this 
two little 
apaec, We 
oa, fo that 
cond, and 
E. Kao 
Island 


1787.] ROUND THE WORLD, 213 


ifland is about three times the height of the other, 
and refembles the mouth of a-volcano. It appeared 
lefs than two miles in diameter at the bafe. We ob- 
ferved, likewife, on the north eaft point of Toofoa on 
the fide of the channel which feparates it from Kao, 
a country abfolutely burnt as black as a coal, defti- 
tute of trees and every kind of verdure, and which 
it is more than probable has been ravaged by floods 
of lava. 

In the afternoon we came in fight of the two iflands 
of Hoonga-tonga and Hoonga-hapace. They are in- 
cluded in a chart of the Friendly Iflands, inferted in 
Cook’s third voyage ; but we do not find laid down a 
very dangerous ledge of rocks extending two leagues, 
who’e direction is nearly N. by W. andS. by E. Its 
northern point is five leagues to the north of Hoonga- 
tonga, forming with the two iflands a ftrait of three 
leagues in width. We ran along the weft fide of it 
for more than a league, and efpied its breakers rifing 
mountains high, but in more moderate weather it 
fhews itfelf lefs, and is then much more dangerous. 
The two little iflands of Hoonga-tonga and Hoonga- 
hapaee are only large uninhabitable rocks, fo high as 
to be {een fifteen leagues. Their form changed every 
moment, and any {ketch it might have been poffible 
to take, would have only agreed in one particular 
point ; they feemed to me of equal extent, each of 
them lefs than half a league in circumference. A 
channel, one league wide, feparates thefe two iflands, 
which lie E. N. E. and W.S. W. ‘They are fituated 
two leagues to the northward of Tongataboo, but that 
ifland being low, it cannot be feen at half that diftance. 
We faw it from the maft-head, the 31 {t December, at 
fix o’clock in the morning; at firft only the tops of the 
trees, which feemed to grow out of the fea, were feen, 
In proportion as we advanced, we rofe the land, but 
only two or three toifes. We foon got fight of Van- 
dieman’s point and the ridge of breakers without it ; 

P3 at 


214 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787. 
at noon it bore eaft about two leagues. As the 
wind was northerly l'fteered for the fouthern coaft 
of the ifland, which is very bold, and may be ap- 
proached within three mufquet fhots. The fea broke 
violently upon all the coaft ; but the breakers were in 
fhore, and we could perceive the moft chartning or- 
chards beyond ; all the ifland feemed cultivated, the 
trees fkirted the fields, which were of the moft de- 

lightful green. It is true we were then in the rain 
feafon, for notwithftanding the magic of this land- 
fcape, the moft horrible drought, in all probability, 
prevails during part of the year in fo low an ifland. 
Not a fingle hill was to be feen, and the fea itfelf 

in the calmeft weather has not a more even furface. 
The huts of the iflanders were not collected in 
villages, but fcattered over the fields like the country 
houfes in our beft cultivated plains. Seven or eight 
canoes were foon launched, and advanced towards 
our frigates; but thefe iflanders, more hufband- 
men than failors, managed them with timidity; they 
did not dare to approach our fhips, though laying 
to, and the water very fmooth; they jumped over- 
board at eight or ten toifes diftant, fwimming towards 
us with cocoa nuts in each hand, which they exchang- 
ed in the moft honeft manner, for bits of iron, nails, 
or little hatchets. Their canoes were fimilar to 
thofe of Navigators’ Iflands; but none of them had 
fails, which they poffibly could not have managed. 
The greateft confidence foon took place between us, 
they came on board, we talked to them about Poulaho, 
and Féenou, and were like old acquaintances who fee 
one another again, and difcourfe upon their friends. 
A young Iflander gave us to underftand that he was 
the fon of Féenau, and this truth or falfhood was worth 
many prefents to him ; he uttered a cry of joy on re- 
ceiving them, and endeavoured to make us under- 
ftand by figns, that if we would anchor on the coatt 
we fhould find provifions in abundance, but that the 
canoes 


178 
cano 
ract 

their 
ande 
fet, 1 
coul 
ders 

prefl 
prop 
of th 
had 1 
ftren 
have 
reft, 

one € 
archi 
the e 
thefe 
foil, « 
and « 
Iilanc 
pofe 

in un 
hefit: 
exce 

thefe 
oblig 
fields 
is pe 
are j 

covet 
natu 

fion 

no ar 
fever. 
weigl 
the it 
had 


Tl 


[1787. 
As the 
ern coaft 
be ap- 
ea broke 
5 were in 
ning or- 
ated, the 
moft de- 
the rainy 
his land- 
bbability, 
n ifland. 
fea itfelf 
nrface. 
ected in 
country 
or eight 
towards 
nufband- 
ty; they 
h Jaying 
ed over- 
towards 
-xchang- 
on, nails, 
milar to 
hem had 
nanaged. 
ween us, 
Poulaho, 
; who fee 
* friends. 
t he was 
yas worth 
oy on re- 
s under- 
the coaft 
that the 
canoes 


1787. | ROUND THE WORLD. 215 


canoes were too finall to carry them out to fea. The 
rat was, the canoes contained neither fowls nor pigs, 
their cargo confifting of fome bananasand cocoa nuts; 
andas the fmalleft wave made thefeticklifh barks over- 
fet, the animals would have been drowned before they 
could be got on board. The manners of thef£ ‘flan- 
ders were noify, but their countenances had no ex- 
preffion of ferocity ; and neither their ftature, the 
proportion of their limbs, nor the prefumptive force 
of their mufcles could overawe us, though they even 
had not known the effect of our arms ; their phyfical 
frength, without being inferior to ours, feemed to 
have no advantage over that of our failors. As to the 
reft, their language, tatooage, drefs, all announced 
one common origin with that of the inhabitants of the 
archipelago of the Navigators, and it is evident that 
the exifting difference in the individual proportions of 
thefe people only proceeds from the drynefs of the 
foil, and the phyfical caufes, arifing from the territory 
and climate of the archipelagos of the Friendly 
Iilands. Of the hundred and fifty iflands which com- 
pofe this archipelago, the greater number confifts but 
in unihabited and uninhabitable rocks; and I fecl no 
hefite tion in aflerting that the Ifland of Oyolava alone 
exceeds in population, fertility, and real ftrength, all 
thefe iflands put tegcther, where the iflanders are 
obliged to water with the fiveat of their brow, the 
fields which furnifh them with their fubfiftence. It 
is perhaps to this neceflity for agriculture that they 
are indebted for their progrefs in civilization, and dit- 
covery of fome arts which compenfate for the want of 
natural ftrength, and protects them from the inva- 
fion L£. their neighbours. We have, however, feen 
no arms among them but patow-patows ; we bought 
feveral of them, which were not one third of the 
weight of thofe we procured at Maouna, and which 
the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands would not have 
had ftrength to make ufe of. | an 
The cuftom of cutting off the two joints of the 
P 4 little 


216 | LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE [1787 


little finger is as general among thefe people as at 
Cocoa and Traitors’ Islands, while that mark of grief 
for the lofs of a friend or relation is almoft unknown 
in Navigators’ Islands. I know that Captain Cook 
thought. that Cocoa and Traitors’ Islands made 
part of the Friendly Islands ; he founded his opinion 
on the report of Poulaho, who knew of the trade Cap- 
tain Wallis carried on in thefe two islands, and who 
even had in his cabinet, before Captain Cook’s ar- 
rival, fome pieces of iron proceeding from the barter 
of the Dolphin frigate with the inhabitants of Trai- 
tors’ Island. I thought, on the contrary, that thefe 
two islands were comprehended in the ten which had 
becn named to us by the islanders of Maouna, becaufe 
I found their fituation precifely in the point of the 
compafs pointed out by them, and more to the eaft 
than was laid down by Captain Waliis; and I thought 
that they might, with the island of the Handfome Na- 
tion of Quiros, make the group complete of the fineft 
and largeft archipelago of the South Sea. I agree, 
however, that the natives of the islands of Cocoa and 
Traitors bear a greater refembiance, both in ftature 
and external appearance, to the inhabitants of the 
Friendly Islands, than to thofe of Navigators’ Islands, 
which they are nearly of an equal diftance from. 
After having thus explained the reafons for my opi- 
nion, I feel little reluctance in adopting, on all oc- 
cafions, that of Captain Cook, who has made fo 
Jong an abode in the different islands of the South 

Sea. | 
All our intercourfe with the inhabitants of Tonga- 
taboo confifted in a fimple vifit, and feldom is it 
made at fuch a difiance ; from them we received only 
the fame refrefhments as they give to neighbours in 
the country ; but M. Dagelct had an opportunity of 
verifying the rate of going of our time-keepers. The 
great number of fets of obfervations made, as I before 
fiated, by Captain Cook, at Tongataboo, left no 
doubt as to the accuracy of pofition of the Refolu- 
tions 


1786. 
tion’s 
fome 
tive ! 
clag 
Pic 
The 
numb 
fered 
Cook 
tudes 
his o 
places 
great 
but t 
a fet ¢ 
ftance 
Fro 
lass 
pofins 
voyag 
lago, 
never 
on ot 
Th 
havin 
provit 
the o 
and r 
thertc 
It did 
tart I 
of wh 
havin 
make 
fecon 
about 
fome 
retree 


L787, 
ple as at 
< of grief 
unknown 
ain Cook 
ds made 
s opinion 
‘ade Cap- 
and who 
ook’s ar- 
he barter 
of Trai- 
that thefe 
vhich had 
a, becaufe 
nt of the 
» the eaft 
I thought 
fome Na- 
‘the fineft 
I agree, 
“ocoa and 
in ftature 
ts of the 
s’ Islands, 
ce from. 
ary opi- 
on all oc- 
made fo 
he South 


of Tonga- 
dom is it 
eived only 
hbours in 
rtunity of 
ers. The 
us I before 
, left no 
he Refolu- 
tion's 


1788: ] ROUND THE WORLD. 217 


tion’s obfervatory, and he thought to make it, in 
fome fort, a firft meridian, by afcertaining the rcla- 
tive pofitions with refpect to it, of the whole archi- 
pelago of the Friendly Islands, and even fome others 
which he had vifited in the fouthern hemifpherc. 
The refult of his obfervations, obtained by a great 
number of diftances between the fun and moon, dif- 
fered at leaft feven minutes from that of Captain 
Cook: thus M. Dagelet, while admitting the longi- 
tudes of that celebrated navigator, likewife purfued 
his own, and he was convinced that comparifons on 
places whofe fituation was already determined, might 
greatly increafe the confidence given to time-pieces, 
but that they were not neceffary for their verification ; 
a fet of lunar obfervations, taken in favourable circum- 
ftances, leaving nothing in that refpect to be defired. 
From the conformity of our determinations of lati- 
tude and longitude, it may be concluded, that fup- 
pofing we had been entirely unacquainted with the 
voyages of Captain Cook, the Navigators’ Archipe- 
lago, and the group of the islands of Vavao, would 
neverthelefs have had the fame geographical pofitions 
on ou: charts within five or fix minutes. 

The 1ft of January, 1788, on the approach of night, 
having loft every hope of obtaining ‘even fufficient 
provifions for our confumption while thus plying in 
the offing, I refolved to bear away to the W. 5S. W. 
and run for Botany Bay, by taking a courfe which hi- 
therto had not been purfued by any other navigator. 
It did not come within my plan to reconnoitre Pyl- 
tart Island, difcovered by Tafman, and the pofition 
of which Capt. Cook had determined; but the wind 
having fhifted from N. to W.S. W. obliged me to 
make a ftretch to the fouth, and in the morning of the 
fecond I perceived that island, whofe greateft width is 
about a quarter of a league. It is very ficep, with 
fome trees only on the N. E. fide, and can ferve for a 
retreat to fea fowl alone. 


This 


218 LA. PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1788. 


This fmall island, or rather rock, bore weft from 
us at half paft ten in the morning. Its latitude by 
obfervation taken at noon by M. Dagelet, was found 
to be 22° 22’, that is to fay 4’ further north than the 
latitude affigned by Captain Cook, who having deter- 
mined it by diftant bearings, was llable to error. 

The calms gave us too many opportunities of 
afcertaining and correcting our obfervations. For 
three days we remained in fight of this rock. The 
fun, which was in the zenith, kept up thefe calms, a 
hundred times more tedious to failors than contrary 
winds. We waited with the moft lively impaticnce 
for the fouth eafterly breezes, which we expected to 
meet with in thefe feas to conduct us to New Hol- 
land. The winds had blown conftantly from the 
weft fince the 17th December, and whether violent 
or not, their only variation was from north-weft to 
fouth-weft. Hence it appears that the trade winds 
are very unfettled in thefe latitudes : they, however, 
blew from the eaft the 6th January, and fhifting to N. 
E., the weather became very overcaft, and the fea 
exceeding high, and fo continued with much rain, 
and a horizon of trifling extent to the 8th, when we 
had fleady but very firong breezes from N. E. to S. 
E., the weather dry, and fea extremely rough. As 
we had croffed the latitude of all thefe iflands, the 
winds refumed their courfe, which had been abfo- 
Jutely. interrupted from the line to the 26th degree 
fouth ; the temperature was alfo greatly changed, 
and the thermometer fell 6°, either from our having 
gotten beyond the fun, or as is equally probable, the 
firong eatterly breezes, and a whitifh fky had check- 
ed its influence; for it was but four degrees from 
our zenith, and its rays had very little obliquity. On 

the 13th, we came in fight of Norfolk Ifland *, and 
* Of which, fee the account, in the voyages and difcoveries of 


governors Philip and Hunter, in New South Wales, and the South- 
ern Ocean, printed for Stockdale. 


of 


1788. 
of the 
was, | 
hope 
althor 
I how 
and I 
from 1 
intern 
ject it 
botan 
se 
Jeavi 

of inc 
with { 
our b 
behin 
had, 

prude 
tain, | 
mand 
enjoir 
text : 
dange 
ality 

this o 
mand 
at Bor 
frigate 
the nc 
oppof 
ta hay 
of in] 
over t 
inacce 
of th 
thus r 
where 
the iff 


[1788, 
weft from 
atitude by 
was found 
h than the 
ing deter- 
error. 

‘unities of 
ions. For 
ock. The 
fe calms, a 
in contrary 
impatience 
xpected to 
New Hol- 
from the 
her violent 
th-weft to 
rade winds 
7, however, 
fting to N. 
nd the fea 
much rain, 
, when we 
N. E. to 5. 
ough. As 
flands, the 
been abfo- 
6th degree 
r changed, 
our having 
obable, the 
had check- 
rees from 
quity. On 
and *, and 


difcoveries of 
nd the South- 


of 


1788. | ROUND THE WORLD. 219 


of the two iflots lying off its fouthern point. The fea 
was, and had been for a long time fo high, that my 
hope of fhelter on the north-eaft coaft was but faint, 
although the wind was at this moment foutherly ; 
I however, on coming nearer, found fmoother water, 
and I decided upon letting go the anchor, at:a mile 
from the fhore, in 24 fathoms, anda hard fandy bottom, 
intermixed with very little coral. I had no other ob- 
ject in view, than that of fending our naturalifts and 
botanifts to get information refpeéting the foil, and 
productions of this ifland, they having, fince our 
leaving Kamtfchatka, had but very few opportunities 
of increafing their journals. We faw the fea break 
with fury round the ifland, but I flattered myfelf that 
our boats would fhelter themfelves, in fome degree, 
behind the large rocks that border the coaft. As we 
had, however, learnt from experience never to lay 
prudence afide, I charged M. de Clonard, Poft Cap- 
tain, fecond officer in the expedition, with the com- 
mand of four fmall beats from the two frigates, and 
enjoined him not to rifk a landing under any pre- 
text whatever, if our Bifcay yawls ran the leaft 
danger of being overfet by the furf. His pundtu- 
ality and prudence, left me nothing to fear; and 
this officer, whom I intended to appoint to the com- 
mand of the Aftrolabe fo foon as we fhould arrive 
at Botany Bay, deferved my entire confidence. Our 
frigates were anchored abreaft of two points, fituated at 
the northern extremity of the N. E. coaft of the ifland, 
oppofite the place where we fuppofed Captain Cook 
ta have difembarked. Our boats made for this kind 
of inlet, but they found the furf break fo violently 
over the great rocks as to render the approach to it 
inaceeflible. They coafied within half a mufket thot 
of the beach, ftecring towards the fouth-eait, and 
thus rowed half a league without finding a. place 
where there was a poflibility of landing. They faw 
the ifland furrounded by a wall, formed trom the lava 


which 


220 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1788, 


which had flowed down from the top of the moun. 
tain, and which having cooled in its defcent, had left 
in many places a kind of roof, projecting feveral feet 
over the coaft of the ifland. Though it had been 
‘poffible to land, the interior could not have been 
penetrated, without ftemming for fifteen or twenty 
toifes the rapid courfe of fome torrents that had form- 
ed ravines. Beyond thefe natural barriers, the ifland 
was covered with pines, and carpeted by the mof 
beautiful verdure ; we might probably have met with 
fome culinary plants, and this hope greatly increafed 
our defire for vifiting a fhore, where Captain Cook 
had landed with the utmoft facility. It is true, he 
met with fine weather in thefe feas that continued 
feveral days, while we had conftantly navigated in 
fuch a heavy fea, that for eight days, our ports and 
windows had never been once opened. From the 
deck I followed the motion of the boat with my 
glafs, and feeing that night was coming on, and 
they had not found a commodious landing place, I 
made the fignal for them to return, and foon after 
gave orders for weighing. I might poffibly have 
loft much time in waiting for a more favourable mo- 
ment, and the furvey of this ifland was not of fuffi- 
cient confequence for fuch a facrifice. As I was 
preparing to fail, a fignal from the Aftrolabe, indi- 
cating her to be on fire, threw me into the ut- 
moft confternation. I immediately ordered out a 
boat to her affiftance, but it had hardly got half way, 
before a fecond fignal informed me of its being ex- 
_tinguifhed, and foon after, M. de Monti told me 
through his fpeaking trumpet, that a box of acids, and 
other chemical liquids belonging to Father Rece- 
veur, depofited under the quarter, deck, had taken 
fire of itfelf, and fpread fo thick a fmoke below, 
that it was very difficult to find out what it proceed- 
ed from: they at length found means to throw this 
box into the fca, and the accident was attended with 

à no 


1788. 
no fu 
acid h 
fire wl 
of wil 
myfel! 
out O1 
the A 
on the 
thing 

Th 
hardly 
of the 
the fa 
Zealat 
veral « 
fome, 
for pu 
bearin 
percct 
inhab 
tropic 
there 
fingle 
are 2 
leagui 
round 
Whil 
on th 
at the 
meal. 
der fa 
to S. 
on th 
fome 
very ¢ 


*In 
Englif 
the ifla 


[1788, 
the moun- 
nt, had left 
feveral feet 
t had been 

have been 
or twenty 
t had form- 
, the ifland 
y the mof 
re met with 
ly increafed 
ptain Cook 
is true, he 
_ continued 
avigated in 
ir ports and 
From the 
t with my 
1g on, and 
ng place, I 
1 foon after 
ffibly have 
urable mo- 
ot of fuffi- 
As I was 
olabe, indi- 
ito the ut- 
lered out a 
ot half way, 
s being ex- 
ati told me 
f acids, and 
ther Rece- 
, had taken 
oke below, 
it proceed- 
» throw this 
tended with 
no 


1788. | ROUND THE WORLD. 221 


no further confequences. Probably fome bottle of 
acid having burfted in the box, was the caufe of the 
fire which communicated to the bottles of the fpirits 
of wine, either broken or carelefsly corked. I gave 
myfelf credit for having ordered from the firft fetting . 
out on the voyage, that a fimilar box, belonging to 
the Abbé Monges, fhould be placed in the open air 
on the forecaftle of my frigate, where there was no- 
thing to fear from fire. 

The elevation of Norfolk Ifland, though very fteep, 
hardly exceeds feventy or eighty toifes from the level 
of the fea: the pines which cover it, are probably of 
the fame fpecies as thofe of New Caledonia or New 
Zealand, Captain Cook fays, that he found there fe- 
veral cabbage palm trees, and the defire of procuring 
fome, was not one of the leaft inducements we had 
for putting in there. It is probable, that the palms 
bearing thefe cabbages.are very little, for we could 
perccive no tree of that fort. This ifland, not being 
inhabited *, is covered with fea-fowl, particularly 
tropic birds, all of which have their long red feathers : 
there were alfo feveral noddies and gulls, but not a 
fingle man of war bird. A fand-bank, on which there 
are 20 or 30 fathoms water, extends three or four 
leagues N. and E. of this ifland, and, perhaps, all 
round it, but we did not found to the weft of it. 
While we ‘were at anchor we caught fome red fifh 
on the bank, like what are called capitaine, or farde, 
at the Ifle of France, which afforded us an excellent 
meal. At eight o’clock in the evening we were un- 
der fail. I ftood W. N. W., and bore up, by degrees, 
to S. W. by W. under eafy fail, continuing to found. 
on this bank, where we might poffibly mect with 
fome fhoal ; but the bottom was, on the contrary, 
very even, and the water deepened, foot by foot, as we 


* In Philip’s and Hunter’s Voyages, is a particular account of the 
Englifh colony fince fettled there ; with a large chart and plan of 
the ifland and its foundings. 

went 


222 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE [1788, 


got further from the ifland. At eleven o":lock in the 
evening, a line of 60 fathoms did not reach the bot. 
toin, we were then ten miles W. N. W. from the moft 
northerly points of Norfolk Ifland. The winds re. 
mained fteady at E. 8. E., with rather foggy fqualls, 
but, in the intervals, the weather was very clear. At 
day-break I crowded fail for Botany Bay, which was 
not more than 400 leagues off. After fun-fet, on the 
14th, I made the fignal for bringing to, and found- 
ing with a line of 200 fathoms. ‘The flat bank of 
Norfolk Ifland had made me think that bottom might 
be found all the way to New Holland: but this con- 
jecture was falfe, and we food on our courfe with one 
error lefs, for I had ftrongly adhered to this opinion. 
The winds from E. S. E. to N. E. were fixed till we 
came in fight of New Holland ; we made much way 
by day, and very little by night, becaufe we had been 
preceded by no navigator in the track we were purfuing. 
The 17th, in 31° 28’S. lat., and 159° 15’ E. long., 
we were furrounded by an innumerable quantity of 
gulls, which led us to believe we had pafled near 
fome ifland or rock; and many were ready for the 
difcovery of a new land before our arrival at Botany 
Bay, which we were, however, but 180 Jeagues from. 
Thefe birds followed us till within 80 leagues of New 
Holland, and it is very probable, that we may have 
left behind us fome iflot or rock, which-thefe birds 
make thcir afylum, for they are not near fo numerous 
near inhabited land. From the time we left Norfolk 
Ifland till in fight of Botany Bay, we, every evening, 
founded with a line of 200 fathoms, and only began 
to ftrike ground eight leagues from the coaft, in g0 
fathoms. We got fight of it the 23d of January. 
It is not very high, being hardly perceptible for more 
than twelve leagues. The winds then became very 
variable, and we fell in with, like Captain Cook, cur- 
rents that carried us, each day, 15’S. of our reckon- 
ing ; fothat we paffed the 24th in working to sae 

ward, 


1788. | 
ward, 
weath 
diftant 
and 01 
fame t 
this de 
depart 
whofe 
ing at 
Eur 
countt 
get to 
that i1 
we di 
nine « 
mile f 
over a 
bay. 
chann 
{ent a 
mandi 
fered | 
addins 
under 
not pe 
nor f: 
duced 
fent a 
ter, W 
ed, at 
wood 
the be 
the ef 
from | 
We ik 
was ¢ 
got vu 
floop, 


[1788, 
ock in the 
h the bot- 

the moft 
winds re. 
gy fqualls, 
clear. At 
which was 
fet, on the 
nd found- 
at bank of 
om might 
t this con- 
>with one 
is Opinion, 
Ked till we 
much way 
> had been 
epurfuing. 
’ E. long. 
juantity of 
afled near 
dy for the 
at Botany 
rues from, 
es of New 
may have 
hefe birds 
numerous 
ft Norfolk 
| evening, 
nly began 
aft, in gO 
* January. 
: for more 
came very 
ook, cur- 
r reckon- 
to wind- 
ward, 


1788. | ROUND THE WORLD. 223 


ward, in fight of Botany Bay, without being able to 
weather Point Solander, which bore north, one league 
diftant. ‘The wind blew violently from this quarter, 
and our fhips failed too badly to overcome, at the 
{fame time, the force of the winds and currents. But 
this day we had a fight entirely new to us fince our 
departure from Manilla ; which was the Englith fleet, 
whofe pendants and colours we could diflinguith, rid- 
ing at anchor in Botany Bay. 

Europeans, at that diftance from home, are all 
countrymen ; and we felt the greatcft impatience to 
get to an anchor. But the next day was fo hazy, 
that it was impoñfible for us to diftinguith land, and 
we did not reach our anchorage before the 26th at 
nine o’clock in the morning. I let go the anchor a 
mile from the north fhore, in feven fathoms water, 
over a bottom of fine grey fand, abreaft of the fecond 
bay. The moment I appeared in the mouth of the 
channel, an Englith lieutenant and midfhipman were 
fent on board my fhip, by Captain Hunter, com- 
manding the Englifh frigate the Sirius. They of- 
fered me, on his part, all the fervices in his power ; 
adding, however, that being on the point of getting 
under way to run northward, circumftances would 
not permit him to give us provifions, ammunition, 
nor fails; fo that their offers of fervice were re- 
duced to wifhes for the final fuccefs of our voyage. I 
fent an officer to return my thanks to Captain Hun- 
ter, who was already a-peak, with his topfails hoift- 
ed, and to tell him that my wants were confined to 
wood and water, which we fhould find plenty of in 
the bay ; and that I knew that fhips, deftined for 
the eftablifhment of a colony, at fo great a difiance 
from Europe, could afford no fuccour to navigators, 
We learnt from the lieutenant that the Englith flect 
was commanded by Commodore Philip, who had 
got under way, the evening before, in the Spy 
floop, to look for a place to the north more conve- 
mient 


224 LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE { 1788, 


nient for his eftablifhment. The Englifh lieutenant 
feemed to keep Commodore Philip's plan very fecret, 
and we did not permit any queftion to be put to him 
on this fubjeét ; but we could not doubt but that 
the projected eftablifhment muft be very near Botany 
Bay, feveral boats and launches being on their way to 

thither; and the paflage muft be fhort indeed to 
judge it ufelefs to put them on board the fhips. The 
failors of the Englifh boat, more indifcreet than their 
officer, foon informed our’s that they were only going 
to Port Jackfon, fixtcen miles north of Cape Banks, 
where Commotlore Philip had himfelf difcovered a very 
good harbour, which ran ten miles towards the S, W.: 
the fhips could ride at anchor there within piftol- 
fhot off fhore, in a fea as fmooth as the water of a 
bafin. We had, in the fequel, too many opportuni- 
ties of hearing news of the Englifh eftablifhment at 
Botany Bay, the runaways from which gave ws a 
great deal of trouble and uneafinefs *. 


The following Extract is taken from Governor Philips 
interefling Voyage to Botany Bay. 


During the ftay of M. de la Péroufe in Botany 
“ Bay, Father le Receveur, who had come out 
“ in the Aftrolabe as a naturalift, died. His death 


* Here ends the journal of La Péroufe. I fhall not repeat what I 
have faid in the Preliminary Difcourfe, on the fate of this illuftrious 
but unfortunate officer. 1 think I have completely refuted the ab- 
furd affertions refpeéting the probability of his exiftence. I refer 
the reader to it, and requeft him to read in this volume the laft let- 
ter he wrote from Botany Bay to the Minifter of Marine. He 
therein relates what track he means to purfue before his arrival at 
the Ifle of France ; and from the fimple combination it prefents to 
navigators, it is not poflible to indulge the leaft hope of his return. 
— French Editor. 


was 


L1788, 
lieutenant 
rery fecret, 
put to him 
but that 
car Botany 
heir way to 
 indeed to 
hips. The 
than their 
only going 
ape Banks, 
ered a very 
the S, W,; 
hin piftol- 
water of a 
opportuni- 
ifhment at 
gave us a 


nor Philips 


in Botany 
come out 


His death 


repeat what I 
‘his illuftrious 
futed the ab- 
ence. I refer 
1e the laft let. 
Marine. He 
his arrival at 
it prefents to 
of his return. 


was 


1788.] ROUND THE WORLD. 225 


« was occafioned by wounds which he received in 
“the unfortunate rencounter at the Navigators’ 
« [flands. A flight monument was erected to his 
“ memory, with the following infcription : 


Hic jacet Le RECEVEUR, 

E. F. F. Minimis Galliæ Sacerdos, 
Phyficus in circumnavigatione 
Mundi, 

Duce de la Prrousx, 

Ob. 17 Feb. 1788. 


“ The monument being foon after deftroyed by the 
“natives, Governor Philip caufed the infcription to 
“be engraved on copper, and affixed to a neigh- 
“bouring tree. M. de la Péroufe had paid a fimilar 
“ tribute of refpect to the memory of Captain Clerke, 
“ at the harbour of St. Peter and St, Paul, in Kamt- 
“ {chatka.” 


Von. Il. 


EXTRACT 


596 


EXTRACT FROM AN ACCOUNT OF AN 
EXCURSION ro true PEAK or TENERIFFE, 


Performed by Meffrs. De Lamanon and Moxcës on 
the 2Ath of Augu?, 1785, together with an Account 
of fome Chémical Experiments made at the Summit of 
that Mountain, and a Defcription of new Varieties of 
volcanic Schorls. 


HE crater of the peak is a perfect folfatara or 
| laboratory of fulphur, greatly refembling thofe 
of Italy. Its diameter is about 50 toifes by 40, rifing 
with a fteep and rapid afcent from weft to eaft. 

On the edges of the crater, and particularly to- 
wards the loweft part, are feveral apertures or vents, 
exhalitæ watery and fulphuric acid vapours, the heat 
of which raifed the thermometer from 9? tol340. 
The interior of the crater is covered with yellow, 
aed and white clay, and fragments of lava partly 
decompofed. Under thefe were found very beauti- 
ful chryftals of fulphur, forming rhomboidal o¢taedra, 
fome of which were an inch thick. I believe they 
are the fineft chryfials of fulphur hitherto difcovered, 

The fteam exhaled from the apertures was pure wa- 
ter, and not at all acid, as I proved not only by its 
tafte, but by feveral experiments. 

The elevation of the peak above the level of the 
fea being near 1900 toifes, I made fome chemical 
experiments in order to compare the phenomena at 
fo greut a height with thofe which occur in our la- 
boratories. I here give only the refults: to detail 
all the minutiæ would be tedious, 

The evaporation of liquids, and the cold they pro- 
duced, were very.confiderable. A minute was fut- 
ficient to volatife a pretty large quantity of ether. 
The action of the acids on metals, earths, and alkalis, 
was flow, and the bubbles that efeaped during the 

| efferveivence 


_confi 


efferv 
prodt 
That 
and t 

Ha 
mean 
acid, 


ous Vi 
vitrio 
‘in co 


exce 
moift 


volati 
ftren: 


howe 
a qui 
plete 
whic 
ing { 
great 
very 


hale 
flam 
follo 
of fi 
whe 
vape 


ONGES 01! 
an Account 
p Summit of 
Varieties of 


olfatara or 
bling thofe 
y AO, rifing 
eaft, 

ularly to- 
s Or vents, 
s, the heat 
)° to !34°, 
th yellow, 
ava partly 
ry beauti- 
1 o¢taedra, 
lieve they 
difcovcred, 
Is pure Wa- 


nly by its 


vel of the 
e chemical 
nomen: at 
In our la- 
> to detail 


| they pro- 
ce was fuf- 
y of ether, 
ind alkalis, 
during the 
erveicence 


EXCURSION TO THE PEAK OF TENÉRIFFE. 297 


effervefcence were much larger than ordinary. The 
production of vitriols afforded a fingular phenomena. 
That of iron inftantly affumed a fine violet colour, 
and that of copper precipitated with a very vivid blue. 

Having next examined the humidity of the air by 
means of an hygrometer, of pure alkali and vitriolic 
acid, I concluded that out of the current of the aque- 


‘ous vapours the air is very dry, for in three hours the 


vitriolic acid had fcarcely undergone any change either 


‘in colour or weight. The fixed alkali remained dry 


except at the edges of the veflel, where it was rather 
moift, and the hygrometer was at 64°, as near as the 
violence of the wind would permit us to judge. 

In contradiction to all the wonders hitherto relat- 
ed, the fmell and ftrength of the liquors appeared 
not to have loft any thing at this elévation, and the 
volatile alkali, ether, and alcohol retained the fame 
ftrength. Only the fuming liquor of Boyle loft a 


_confiderable portion of its energy: its evaporation 


however was not the lefs rapid, and in thirty feconds 
a quantity Thad poured into an open veflel was com- 
pletely volatilifed. Nothing remained but fulphur, 
which reddened the edges and bottom. On pour- 
ing fulphuric acid into this liquor, it exploded with 
great violence, and the vapours arifing from it had a 
very fenfible degree of heat. 

TF endeavoured to generate volatile alkali by de- 
compofing fal ammoniac with fixed alkali, but its 
production was flow and fearcely perceivable ; where- 


-as, on a level with the fea, its formation with fimilar 


quantities feemed to proceed more rapidly, and in 


‘greater abundance. 


Defiring to afcertain the nature of the vapours ex- 
haled from the crater, and whether they contained in- 
flammable air, fixed air, or marine acid, I made the 
following experiments. I expofed a nitrous folution 
of filver in a veflel on the edge -of one: of the vents, 
where it retnained above-an hour in the midft of the 


vapours continually arifing, without any fenfible al- 


Q 2 teration, 


226 EXTRACT FROM AN ACCOUNT OF AN 


teration, and thus demonftrated that no marine acid 
was exhaled. I then poured a few drops of marine acid 
upon it, whe. the precipitation of luna cornea took 
place immediately ; but in lieu of being white as 
wiual, it was of a fine dark violet, which foon chang- 
ed to grey, under the form of fmall flaky chryftals, 
vifible to the naked eye, but much more clearly per- 
ceived by means of a glafs, in which manner M. 
Sage cxamined them (vid. min. docim.) ‘This change 
of colour, according to fome experiments I have 
‘made on the precipitation. of luna cornea in inflam- 
mable air, muft, in my opinion, be attributed toa 
combination with a vapour of that kind. Lime-wa- 
ter expofed during three hours on the edge of the 
crater, and in the neighbourhood of a vent, was not 
covered with any pellicle. Scarcely could we per- 
ceive a few filaments; which I think proves not only 
that no fixed air exhaled from the crater, but, alfo 
that the atmofpheric air refting upon it contains but 
very little, and that the inflammable vapours and 
fulphuric acid gas alone are confiderable, or indeed 
perceivable. 

The atmofpheric electricity was pretty confidera. 
ble; the electrometer of M. Sauflure held in the 
hand about five feet from the ground pointed to 3°; 
whereas at the furface it was at 14. This electr- 
city was pofitive. 

The violence of the wind , prevented my making 
on the crater itfelf the experiment of boiling water. 
But having again defcended to the frozen fountain, 
it continued boiling, and the thermometer, when 
plunged in it, pointed to 71° of Réaumur. The mer- 
id of the barometer was then at 19 inches and one 
ine. 

I found new varieties of volcanic fchorls, and 
among others No. 1, a triple lozenge belonging to 
the clafs of oétaëdral inequilateral prifms. 

No. 2, black ichorl in oétaëdral prifms of une- 
qual fides, terminating in oppofite triedral nan 

| the 


E 


the pla 
and a 
cation 4 
No. 
two lar 
an obt 
and on 
of fix t 
bevelli 


all the 
No. 
mit, at 
an irre 
on the 
No. 
ed of 
which 
the for 
fummi 
gular 
No. 
nating 
two ir 
three 
trunca 
at the 
tions f 
which 
a trape 
tween 
tures, 
third | 
angle 
out tl 
dition 


N 


arine acid 
arine acid 
brnea took 
white as 
on chang- 
chryftals, 
learly per- 
anner M. 
is Change 
ts I have 
n inflam- 
uted toa 
Lime-wa- 
Be of the 
tf, Was not 
| we per- 
s not only 
, but alfo 
ntains but 
ours and 
or indeed 


ronfidera- 
ld in the 
ed to 3°; 
is electri- 


y making 
ie water. 
fountain, 
er, when 
The mer- 
s and one 


rls, and 
nging to 


of une- 
fummits, 
the 


EXCURSION TO THE PEAK OF TENERIFFE. 229 


the plans of which are two great irregular eptaedra, 
and a fmall fealene triangle, produced by the trun- 
cation of the upper angle. 

No. 3 is a comprefled hexaëdral prifm, having the 
two larger fides a rt terminated at one end by 
an obtufe tetraëdral pyramid, with trapezoidal plans, 
and on the other by an hexaédral pyramid, compofed 
of fix trapezoidal plans, two of which are very fmall 
bevellings, and formed by the edges of the two upper 
fides of the broad hexagon of the prifm. 

No. 4 terminated at one end like the top of the 
laft, and at the other by a diédral pyramid, of which 
all the edges are bevelled off. 

No. 5 terminates at one end by a tetraédral fum- 
mit, and at the other by an eptaëdron, compofed of 
an irregular pentagon in the middle, five trapezoides 
on the ‘fides, and a fixth on one of the angles. 

No. 6 terminates in a pentaédral fummit, compof- 
ed of four pentagons and a rhomb in the middle, 
which is a truncated angle formed by the union of 
the four trapezoids ; and on the other by a pentaëdral 
fammit, which differs from the firft only in a trian- 
gular truncation on the edge of the two trapezoids. 

No. 7, biack fchorl with an hexaédral prifm, termi- 
nating at one end in an eptaedral fummit, compofed of 
twe irregular hexagons, two irregular pentagons, and 
three trapezoids, formed by the two diedral faces, 
truncated on fix fides, and on the middle edge: 
at the other by a teträedral fummit, whofe trunca- 
tions form, 1, two large trapezoids and a rhomboides, 
which is no other than the truncation of one edge of 
a trapezoid ; 2°, two fmall regular trapezoids, and be- 
tween the great and finall trapezoids, three trunca- 
tures, one hexagonal, the fecond pentagonal, and the 
third a fealene. ‘The fecond is the truncature of the 

angle of the fummit, which would be a rhomb with- 
out the hexagonal truncature, which gives it an ad- 


ditional fide. 
Q 3 EULOGY 


230 


EULOGY OF LAMANON, 
BY M. BONCE, 


Read at the Public Sitting of the Free Society of Sci 
ences, Letters, and Arts, in the Louvre, at Paris, 
Oth Vendémiaire, 6th Year. 


WHEN a great man terminates a long and bril- 
liant career, made illuftrious by aéts of heroifin, or 


the fublime productions of genius, the honours we: 


beftow.on his memory fhould be confidered rather as 
a tribute of gratitude than the mere expreflion of 
grief. He has performed his allotted work ; the 
good, he has done remains, the knowledge he has 
promulgated lives and inereafes, and a protracted .ex- 
iftence, at an age when the decay of his organs puts 
a period to the brilliant conceptions of genius, would 
neither add to his own glory, nor the happinefs of 
his fpecies. 

But when a young man of exalted virtucs, and 
adorned with mature, though early talents, falls a vic- 
tim to his too eager purfuit of knowlec ge, and is 
fnatched fuddenly from the world, all mankind mutt 
feel the deepeft regret that the expectation of his fu- 
ture fervices mutt now icrminate with the grave, and 
his hopes of adding to the improvement of fcience be 
defiroyed at once by the cruel ftroke of death, 

Robert Paul Lamanon, of the Academy of Turin, 
correfponding member of the Academy of Sciences 
at Paris, and member of the Mufeum of that me- 

tropolis, was born at Salon, in Provence, in 1752, 
of a family ancicnt and well efteemed. I fhall not 
enter into the details of his youth. To men of or- 
dinary capacity a good education is indifpenfible : 
but with men of genius a new education is and muti 
be the offspring of their own creation. Being a 

younger 


voungé 
tive lei 
fical ft 
larly t 
knowl 
ready À 
the fu 
emanc 
father 
feflion 
chnati( 
A pr 
hearin. 
fered | 
canoni 
chapte 
“ did: 
«Tan 
Nat 
which 
and de 
to ren 
him b 
brothe 
Lib 
mano! 
by no 
veil w 
eyes, | 
gets ( 
clofet. 
produ 
great 
mene 
glow! 
Daup 
gus h 
thefe 


ty of Sci- 
at Paris, 


and buil. 


proifi, or 


rather as 
reffion of 
ork ; the 
e he has 
acted .ex- 
rans puts 
as, would 
>pinefs of 


ucs, and 
ills a vic- 
ec, and is 
ind mutt 
of his fu- 
rave, and 
cience be 
h, 

of Turin, 
Sciences 
that me- 
in 1752, 
fall not 
°n of or- 
yenfible : 
and mutt 
Being a 
younger 


ours Wwe’ 


RULOGY OF LAMANON. 231 


younger fon, and therefure condemned to the inac- 
tive leifure of the church, Lamanon finifhed his claf- 
fical ftudies at Paris, But to fcience, and particu- 
larly the fublime ftudy which includes a univerfal 
knowledge of all the productions of nature, he al- 
ready felt that predilection and propenfity which is 
the fureft .pledge of future fuccefs. Being foon 
emancipated from every controul by the death of his 
father and elder brother, ke haftened to quit a pro- 
feflion for which he felt ne natural aptitude or in- 
clination. | 

A prelate, then in the higheft favour with the court, 
hearing that Lamanon was quitting the church, of- 
fered him a confiderable fum of money to refign his 
canonicate in favour of one of his protégés. “ The 
chapter of Arles,” replied: the youthful collegiate, 
“ did not fell me'my benefice; and as I received it, 
“Tam determined to reftore it.” 

Nature had implanted in him a fenfe of juftice, 
which the prejudices of his birth never weakened ; 
and determining, by an act of peculiar generofity, 
to renounce the barbarous advantage conferred: on 
him by the law, he divided his patrimony with his 
brothers and fitters in equal portions. 

Liberated from the reftraints of his profeffion, La- 
manon devoted himfelf to his ftudies with an ardour 
by no means common. Defirous to withdraw the 
veil which conceals the fecrets of nature from our 
eyes, yet perfuaded that the mofi elevated genius be- 
gets only erroneous fyftems in the filence of the 
clofet, and convinced that to comprehend the fublime 
productions of nature, we mutt fee and obferve a 
great deal, and catch her as it were in the adi and com- 
mencement of her operations: our youthful fage, 
glowing with thefe ideas, travelled ver. Provence, 
Dauphiny, and Switzerland, and climbed the ardu- 
gus heights of the Alps and Pyrenees. At fight of 
thefe vaft laboratories of nature, his genius caught 

| Q 4 fire, 


232 EULOGY OF LAMANON. 


fire, and blazed out inftantaneoufly. Exploring now 
the fummits of mountains, now the depths of ca. 
verns, weighing the different airs, and analyfing bo. 
dies, he imagines himfelf raifed to a knowledge of 
the fecrets of creation, and conceives a new fyftem 
of the univerfe, 

On his return home he devoted himfelf with new 
ardour to the ftudy of meteorology, mineralogy, phy. 
fics, and every branch ‘of natural hiftory. 

Defirous to derive affiftance from the converfation 
of fcientific men at the capital, Lamanon removed 
to Paris*, and it was at the fame period that he un- 
dertook a voyage to England. Though fea-fick dur. 
ing a moft tempeftuous paflage, and in danger each 
moment of being fwallowed up by the waves, he 
lafhed himfelf to the main-maft, there to contemplate 
at leifure a fcene at once fublime and terrible, The 
burfts of thunder, the whiftling of the winds, the blaze 
of the forked lightning, the waves that in rapid fuc- 
ceifion overwhelmed him, fo dreadful to men of or- 
dinary talents, raifed in his foul a fpecies of enthu- 


fiaftic intoxication, and he has often declared to me - 


that this was the fineft day he had ever beheld. 
Convinced that the friendfhip of a great man ele- 
vates the foul, excites emulation, and becomes an 
additional ftimulus even in thofe to whom ftudy is 
leafure, and the endearments of affection neceflary, 
| FA endeavoured to qualify himfelf for that of 


* The inhabitants of the commune of Salon having been deteat- 
ed in a law fuit againft their lord, unanimoufly eleéted Lamanon, 
whofe integrity and knowledge were well known, to folicit before 
the council the repeal of the iniquitous decree which had been furrep- 
titioufly obtained by intereft. ‘The reply of our youthful ‘age on this 
occafion is an additional proof of his uncommon din eftednets. 
# As I intend,” faid he, * to go to Paris on my priv : affairs, I 
cannot accept the 24 livres per day you offer me: I fhall take only 
the twelfth part of that fum to defray the extraordinary expences 
that may attend my journies to Verfailles.” In this affair he ob- 
tained complete fuccefs. 


Condorcet, 


engine 
indebt 
which 
morial 
taineet 
judicic 
of the 
tates — 
tifes w 
very |r 
rivers, 
enorm 
found 
in the 
Ha 
land a 
there 
that « 


oring now 
hs of ca. 
lyfing bo- 
wledge of 
ow fyftem 


with new 
logy, phy. 


nverfation 
| removed 
sat he un- 
-fick dur. 
inger each 
waves, he 
mtemplate 
ble. The 
, the blaze 
rapid fuc- 
en of or- 
of enthu- 


red to me - 


held. 
man ele- 
comes an 
ftudy is 
neceflary, 
or that of 


been defeat- 
1 Lamanon, 
olicit hefore 
been furrep- 
l'age on this 
“ eftednet:, 

‘2 affairs, I 
all take only 
Ary expences 
affair he ob- 


ondorcet, 


EULOGY OF LAMANON. 233 


Condorcet, whofe talents and misfortunes have im- 
mortalized him, though purfued by the unforgiving 
malice of a lawlefs faction, at enmity with every thing 
but diforder, becaufe he laid the bafis of liberty on 
the ruins ofanarchy, That academician, who alrea- 
dy difcovered what Lamanon might one day become, 
received him with diftinétion, and at length granted 
him his moft intimate friendfhip. 

During three fuccetlive years which he pafled at 
Paris, he conftantly attended to the duties of the 
learned focieties, which admitted him a member; 
and was at that time jointly with Court de Gebelin, 
and fome other learned men and artifts, one of the 
founders of the Mufeum, the majority of whofe mem- 
bers are now united with the Free Society of Scien- 
ces, Letters, and Arts of Paris: among various pa- 
pers which he read at the fittings of thefe focicties, 
many of which are printed, I fhall mention that on 
Adam de Crapone, one of the moft fkilful hydraulic 
engineers that ever exifted ; an artift to whom we are 
indebted for feveral canals for agricultural purpofes, 
which fertilize our fouthern departments ;—a me- 
morial on the hernia gutturis of the Savoyard moun- 
taineers ; a paper full of profound obfervations, and 
judicious reflections ;—another piece on the theory 
of the winds, (particularly the mifral, which devaf- 
tates the fouthern countries), one of the beft trea- 
tifes we have on that fubject. He produced alfo a 
very Inminons eflay on the variation of the beds of 
rivers, particularly of the Rhone; and lafily on the 
enormous fkeleton of a fifh of the cetaceous kind, 
found at Paris in digging the foundation of a houtfe: 
in the rue Dauphine. 

Having formed an intention of revifiting Switzer- 
land and Italy, Lamanon made a tour to ‘Turin, and 
there became acquainted with the learned men of 
that capital. The difcovery of Montgolfier, that 
brilliant 


234 EULOGY OF LAMANON. 


brilliant novelty which may be confidered as one of 
the phenomena which precede great events, then 
drew the attention of all Europe. Our youthful fage 
was defirous of making fome experiments of that na. 
ture. He exhibited an aeroftat at Turin. But not 
perceiving in this difcovery, at firft fo feducing, an 
abject of public utility, not forefecing that it would 
one day give fuccefs to the ftandard of France in the 
field of battle at Fleurus, and obtain the palm of 
victory for his countrymen, he refumed his favourite 
occupations: Departing therefore from Piedmont, 


he explored the reft of Italy, returned through Swit-. 


zerland, vifited the Alps, climbed the fummit of 
Mount-Blanc, and haftened home to Provence, load- 
ed with the rich fpoils of the countries he had tra- 
verfed, to digeft the interctiing materials he had col. 
lected. 

The following is an example of the accuracy of 
his obiervations.—Convinced that the plains of La 
Crau, which is divided by the river Durance, had 
ance formed a lake, he was defirous to afcertain that 
faét with phyfical certainty. He therefore collected 
one of each fort of pebble in that vaft plain, and count- 
ed nineteen different varieties. ‘Then tracing the river 
to its fource, near the frontiers of Savoy, he obferved 
that above every ftream which branched from it, and 
difcharged itfelf into the Durance, the number of 
pebbles he met with diminifhed. He then afcended 
the courfe of each of thefe little rivers, and found on 
their banks the principle of the pebbles with which 
the plain of Crau is ftrewed. Thus he obtained an 
incontrovertable proof that this plain had once been a 
lake formed by the Durance and the waters of the 
rivers that unite with it. If all men of learning pur- 
fued their refearches with equal precifion, hypothefes, 
rather brilliant than folid, would not find fo many ad- 
mirers. ‘The charms of imagination, and the orna- 

ments 


ments | 
fpriptih 

At t 
great v 
ment ¢ 
difcove 
demy t 
correct 
perfect 
natural 
qualifi 
wrote | 
tigues : 
demiet: 
crowme 
{elf to 
him, tc 

The 
comina 
the ad\ 
native « 
which 
fidence 
waited 
zeal an 
to exp 
very fu 
and m 
fhips at 
the 4 
non, ir 
given ¢ 

* Lar 


of a feve 
noife had 


iS one of 
ts, then 
hful fuge 
that na. 
But not 
icing, an 
it would 
ce in the 
palm of 
favourite 
icdmont, 


gh Swit-. 


mmit of 
ice, load- 
had tra- 
had col- 


curacy of 
1s of La 
nee, had 
‘tain that 
collected 
id count. 
the river 
obferved 
n it, and 
amber of 
afcended 
found on 
th which 
ained an 
e been a 

rs of the 
ring pur- 
pothetes, 
many ad- 
he orna- 
ments 


EULOGY OF LAMANON. 235 


ments of ftile, would then no longer ufurp the impre- 
(priptible nights of truth and nature“. 

At the period when he was about to publith his 
great work on the Theory of the Earth, the Govern- 
ment conceived the vatt defign of compleating the 
difcoveries of Captain Cook ; and ordered the Aca- 
demy to choofe out a number of men qualified to 
correct our motions of the iouthern hemifphere, to 
perfect its hydrography, and advance the fcieace of 
natural hiftory. Condorcet knew no man fo well 
qualified for this laft department as Lamanon, and 
wrote him an invitation to fhare the perils and fa. 
tigues of this glorious enterprife. Our youthful aca- 
demician aceepted with tranfport a propofal which 
crowned all his withes, flew to Paris, prefented him- 
felf to the yaimfter, and, refufing the falary offered 
him, took leave of his friends, and departed for Breft, 

The expedition failed in Auguft 1785 under the 
command of an experienced mariner, whofe zeal for 
the advancement of fcience, and attachment to his 
native country, equalled his courage and intelligence, 
which had already defervedly procured him the con- 
fidence of the people. ‘The learned of every country 
waited with anxiety the ufeful difcoveries which the 
zeal and talents of the perfons employed gave reafon 
to expect. The former patt of their voyage was 
very fuccefsful. After landing in a variety of places, 
and making a multitude of obfervations, the two 
fhips arrived at the Ifland of Muouna, one of thofe in 
the Archipelago of Navigators. The eager Lama- 
hon, impatient to eftablith the truth of the accounts 
given of that country, landed, together with M. de 

* Lamanon, after a confinement of two months in confequence 
ofa fever, having learned that the phenomenon of a fubterraneous 
noife had been obferved near Malefherbes, fixteen leagues from 
Paris, efcaped the vigilance of his friends, flew to the fpot, and three 
days after returned with thirty pounds weight of foffils. In that 
time he had travelled thirty-two leagues on foot, and recovered of 
bis fever, which never attacked him fince. 


Langle, 


FETE 


236 EULOGY OF LAMANON. 


Langle, the fecond in command of the expedition, 
At the moment of their re-embarkation, the iflanders, 
feduced by the expeétation of finding immenfe riches 
in their veffels, as they conjectured from the prefents 
they had juft received, endeavoured to prevent their 
getting off, and attacked our countrymen. The lat. 
ter were compelled to defend themfelves, and Lama- 
non, De Langle, and ten of both the crews fell vic- 
tims to the fury of the cannibals. 

Thus fell Lamanon, whofe generous devotion of 
his labours to the fervice of the community gave him 
the moft facred claims on the public gratitude. He 
was the only one of this celebrated but unfortunate 
expedition who received no falary from the national 
munificence, and he fell a victim to his ardour for 
the fciences, under a danger, peculiar to himfelf, and 
exe hs by none of the learned men who em- 

arked with him. 

Lamanon was formed to extend the fphere of the 
fciences. The depth of his penetration, the energy 
of his character, the fagacity of his judgment, com- 
bined with that lively curiofity which induces us to 
acquire information, and to difeuver the firft princi- 
ples of things, muft have led to the moft valua- 
ble difcoveriés. His perfon was tall, and to great 
vivacity of countenance were united a prodigious 
ftrength and inconceivable activity of body. Ina 
word, nature had formed him with the care fhe feems 
to beftow on the chofen few whom fhe deftines for 
great undertakings. His flile was nervous, and fre- 
quently adorned with poetry, but always enriched 
with imagery peculiar to himfelf. Sentiment beam- 
ed through the energy of his attractive language ; 
and if he did not poileis the refined diction which 
dazzles and feduces the reader, he was in the higheft 
degree mafter of that logical force of argument by 
which we are at orice convinced and aftonifhed. 

Notwithftanding the magnitude of his occupa- 

tions 


tions, § 
cence, 
mind, 
which 
this he 
dulge. 
charms 
time t 
his mal 
wheth 
with t 
never } 
Att 
the wo 
for ind 
racter, 
the oth 
on boa: 
fity ma 
will no 
of cont 
of frien 
diftant 
robbed 
afhes w 
flowers 


* Tko 
Gebelin, 
city, his 1 
ftrongly : 
perithed | 
of the Ea 
diftinguif 
lattly, Le 
The latte 
his buft, 
aad cover 


pedition, 
iflanders, 
nfe riches 
> prefents 
ent their 

The lat- 
id Lama- 

fell vic- 


votion of 
gave him 
ide. He 
fortunate 
national 
rdour for 
mfelf, and 
who em- 


re of the 
he energy 
nt, com- 
ces us to 
rft princi- 
oft valua- 
to great 
brodigious 
In a 
{he feems 
eftines for 
s, and fre- 
enriched 
nt beam- 
anguage ; 
on which 
he higheft 
rument by 
ed. 
S occupa- 
tions 


EULOGY OF LAMANON. 237 


tions, and the fmallnefs of his fortune, his benefi- 
cence, that charaéteriftic of a virtuous and feeling 
mind, had affumed in him the fame afcendency 
which the love of pleafure holds in other men, and 
this he found the means as well as the time ‘to in- 
dulge. Nor would he have been infenfible to the 
charms of fociety had his ardour for ftudy left him 
time to enjoy them. Uncommonly ingenuous in 
his manners, he replied to a lady who afked him 
whether he had ever formed an intimate connection 
with the fair fex, that he had always defired it, but 
never yet could {pare the time. 

At the period of his engaging in the voyage round 
the world, that innate fentiment, that ftrong paffion 
for independence, which formed the bafis of his cha- 
racter, induced him to refufe the falary granted to all 
the other academicians. “ Should I not feel happy 
on board,” faid he, “ fhould my tafte or my curio- 
fity make me defirous of quitting the expedition, I 
will not fuffer any power on earth to have the right 
of controling me.” But death belied the fond hope 
of friendfhip, and has cut the threat of his life* in a 
diftant and barbarous country, and our grief is even 
robbed of the foothing fatisfaction of bathing his 
afhes with our tears, and firewing his tomb with 
flowers. 


* T knew Lamanon in my early youth at the houfe of Court de 
Gebelin, and in fome literary focieties. His modeity, his fimpli- 
city, his fcrupulous integrity, had procured him friends who were 
ftrongly attached to him; Mongès, jun. the mineralogitt, who alfo 
perifhed in this fatal expedition; La Métherie, author of the Zheory 
of the Earth, and editor of the Journal de Phyfique; M. Ponce, a 
diftinguifhed artift as an engraver, and author of this Eulogy ; and 
lattly, Lewis Rofc, an ardent naturalift, now in North America, 
The latter has, fince the death of his friend, conftantly prefeived 
his buft, which he has placed in a confpicuous part of his cabinet, 
aud covered with funereal crape.— Nore 6y Millin. 


DISSERTATION 


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238 ON té INHABITANTS OF 


DISSERTATION 


On the inhabitants of Easter Isuanp and of Mowrz, 
by M. Routt, Doctor of Phyfic, Surgeon in Or. 
dinary of the Nuvy, and of gy Hs Frigate, 
commanded by M. de la PErousE, in a Voyage round 

the World. 


.. OUR ftay in thefe iflands having fcarcely permited 
me to pafs a few hours on fhote, I was unable to 
conduct. my refearches with the accuracy, or carry 
them to the extent I.withed, in order to give the 
Medical Society all the fatisfaction they required on 
the fubject. I fhall therefore confine myfelf to 
pointing out the errors I thought I difcovered'in the 
accounts of other travellers, and endeavour to con- 
vey only a fuccinét defcription of the inhabitants, 
and the difeafes by which they feem moft generally 
affected. | 

On the gth April, 1786, we caft anchor off Eaf- 
ter Ifland, which is fituated in 27° 9/S. lat. 111° 
55’ 30’ W. long. 

The afpect of Eafter Ifland is not fo barren and 
difgufting as navigators have told us. It is indeed al: 
moft defiitute of wood, but the hills and valleys ex- 
hibit, in the eyes of feamen at leaft, a moft agree- 
able verdure. The fize and goodnefs o* their pota- 
toes, yains, fugar canes, &c. are proofs of great fer- 
tility and ftrong vegetation. 

The defcriptions of the inhabitants appear equally 
remote from truth. We neither found there the 
giants defcribed by Roggewein, nor the meagre fi- 
gures reprefented by a modern traveller, as languith- 
ing for want of wood, and pofleffing a general cha- 
. yacter of penury, which has no real exittence. Far 
from meeting with men who difgufted the fpectator 
by their miferable appearance, and a few women, //! 
by a fuppofed revolution in that part of the pil 

; Wiel 


ea 


f Mower, 
on in Or- 
Æ Frigate, 
age round 


y permited 

unable to 
y; or carry 
o give the 
equired on 

myfelf to 
ered in the 
Jur to con- 
inhabitants, 
R generally 


yor off Eaf- 
S. lat, 111° 


barren and 
is indeed al- 
| valleys ex- 
moft agree- 

their pota- 
of great fer- 


pear equally 
d there the 
| meagre fi- 
as languifh- 
general cha- 
tence. Far 
he fpectator 
women, /e/! 
f the world, 

which 


EASTER’ AND MOWEE ‘ISLANDS, 230 
which buried the inhabitants: in its ruins—on'the con- 
trary, L_obferved'a pretty numerous tribe, adorned 
with more grace and beauty than all thofe I have fince 
had occafion to vifit; and enjoying a foil that-eafily 
fupplied them with’ good provifions in an abundance, 
more than fufficient for their confumption, though 
frefh water was very fcarce, and ofa bad quality. 

Thefe iflanders are ftout, and of an agrecable per- 
fon and countenarice. Their height is about five feet 
four inches French, and they are very well propor- 
tioned, Except their colour, the character of their 
face differed in no refpect from that of Europeans. 
They are not very hairy, and have but little beard, 
but have all a confiderable quantity on the pubis and 
in the arm-pits. * Their complexion is fwarthy, and 
their hair black, though in fome it is fair. They 
appeared, in general; to enjoy good health, which 
they preferve even to old age. They not only paint 
and tattoo themfelves, but alfo-picrce their cars 
They encreafe the opening of the latter, by infert- 
ing a leaf of the fugar-cane, rolled into a fpiral form 
fo much that the lobe of the ear hung, as it were, 
upon their fhoulders. This is ufed by the men 
alone, and feems to be a mark of diftinguifhcd beau 
ty, which they are ftudious to acquire. | 

The women alfo not only exhibit a regular fhape 
but limbs well polithed and gracefully moulded. 
Their face is of an agreeable oval, their featutes 
fweet and delicate, and they only want the addition 
of a fair complexion to claim the praife of beauty 
according to our European ideas. They are fufñ- 
ciently ftout, have beautiful hair, and an engaging 
manner, calculated to infpire thofe fentiments which 
they feel themfelves, without endeavouring to çon- 
ceal them, — 3 ” 

: Notwithftanding all thefe intercfting qualities, I 
did not perceive the leaft appearance of jealoufy in the 
men ; who on the contrary, endeavoured to make a 


trathick 


240 ON THE INHABITANTS OF 


traffick of their favours. The latter are circum. 
cifed, and appear to live in perfeét anarchy. None 
of our company could diftinguifh any Chief among 
them. _ Both men and women are almoft naked, 
wearing only a fkirt about their middle, or fome. 
times a picce of cloth, which they wrap round their 
fhoulders and hips, and which extends half way 
down their thighs. 

I know not whether they have any idea of proper. 
ty among themfelves, but their conduct towards us 
proves how little they refpect that of ftrangers. They 
took fo great a liking to our. hats, that in a few 
hours they {tripped us of them all, and then made 
us the fubject of their dre à We can only com- 
pare them-to fchool-boys,. who place all their enjoy- 
ment, and employ all their cunning, in playing every 
kind of frolic on the peafantry. 

Thefe iflanders are not deftitute of induftry. | We 
even remarked that their houfes are very roomy and 
petfectly well built in their kind. They are formed 
of reeds, fupported by a frame of rafters, in the 
manner of an arbour, being fifty feet long by ten or 
twelve broad, and the fame in height in the loftieft 
part. There are feveral entrances in the fides, whofe 
greateft diameter does not exceed three feet, The in- 
fide prefents nothing very remarkable. We only faw 
fome mats, which they ftretched on the ground to 
lie on, and feveral {mall pieces of furniture, for their 
ufe. Their clothes are made of the paper mul- 
berry, but their manufacture is very inconfiderable ; 
becaufe though they cultivate that tree, it does not 

ow in great plenty. They alfo make hats and 

afkets of rufhes, and fmall figures in wood, which 
are tolerably well executed. They live on potatoes, 
yams, bananas, fugar-cane, and fifh; fometimes 
eating a fpecies or marine fucus, which they gather 
on the fea fhore. 

Fowls, though few in number, are the only ri 

| meftic 


‘® circum. 
hy. None 
ief among 
oft naked, 
, or fome- 
‘ound their 
y half way 


of proper: 
towards us 
gers. They 
t in a few 
then made 
| only com- 
their enjoy- 
laying every 


uitry. | We 
roomy and 
are formed 
ters, in the 

by ten or 
ths loftieft 
fides, whofe 
et. The in- 

e only faw 

ground to 
ire, for wit 

aper mul- 
able: 
it does not 
e hats and 
yood, which 
on potatoes, 

fometimes 


they gather 


e only do- 
mettic 


EASTER AND MOWEE ISLANDS. 241 


meftic animals we found at Eafter Ifland ; and of all 
the wild animals,’ the rat is alfo the only quadruped. 
But few fea fowl were obferved, and the fea appears 
to produce no great quantity of fifh. 

There is a large crater in the eaftern part of the 
ifland ; andithroughout almoft the whole of its cir- 
cumférence,’we faw on the fea fhore a great num- 
ber of ftatues, or'a kind of mif-fhapen bufts, on 
which are very rudely marked the nofe, mouth, 
and ears. At the foot of thefe ftatues were found 
the myfterious.caverns mentioned in Captain Cook’s 
account. In thefé little caves, which we were per- 
mitted to vifit without any oppofition from the na- 
tives, each family buries thé remains of its departed 
relations. 

La Péroufe; not content with having already made 
feveral prefents to thefe iflanders, but ftill defirous 
of affording them further proofs of benevolence, and 
contributing in the moft permanent manner to their 
happinefs, left two ewes, a fhe-goat, and a fow, with 
one male ‘of each fpccies ; fowed all kinds of pulfe 
on the ifland, and planted the ftones of peaches, 
plumbs, and cherries, together with pips of oranges 
and Jemons. 

Should the conduét of the natives not fruftrate fo 
laudable an intention, that celebrated navigator will 
have the glory not only of contributing to their be- 
nefit, by ftocking their country with animals and 
vegetables adapted to their fupport, and calculated 
to fupply their primary wants, but of fecuring to 
fucceéding navigators every kind of refrefhment. 

Having ‘executed thefe benevolent defigns, we 
weighed anchor, and directed our courfe towards the 
Sandwich Iflands. As foon as we came within fight 
of Mowee, one of the iflands of this archipelago, 
two hundred canoes came off to meet us, laden 
with pigs, fruit, and frefh vegetables, which the in- 
habitants fent on board, and forced us to accept, 
without any ftipulation or condition on their part. 

Vou. IT. R The 


942 ON THE INHABITANTS, OP 
Fbe wind being very ftrong, and having. frethened 
our way, thefe refources could. profit us but little, 
and we were foon compelled to leave this piéturefque 
and beautiful ifland, which, with the great.concourfe 
of inhabitants who furrounded us..manceuvring in 
their canoes, formed the moft animated and delight. 
ful. fpeétacle imagination can depict... On. the 29th 
of, May. we anchored to the weftward of this ifland, 
which is fituated in 20° 34’ 30!’ N, lat. and 158° 
25’ W. long. from Paris. The vegetation: .of this 
part. of the ifland. is: not fo ftrong, nor the population 
fo. numerous as its.eaftern part, where we had juft 
landed; yet {earcely had. we caft anchor before we 
were furrounded. by the inhabitants, who brought 
us in their canoes pigs, fruit, and freth vegetables, 
Our, exchanges were made with fo much fuccefs, 
that in a few hours we received on board nearly three 
hundred pigs, and a fufficient quantity of vegetables, 
which coft us only a few pieces. of iron; and I be- 
lieve there. are. few. markets in Europe where the 
trade is conducted with more difpateh or equal good 
faith, as thefe iflanders fhewed in this fort of com- 
merce. ' 
Though the ifland of Mowee abundantly fapplies 
the inhabitents with animals, and all kinds of pro- 
vifions neceflary to their fubfftence, they are far 
from. exhibiting the fame. healthy appearance. with 
thofe of Eafter Hand, where only part of thofe re- 
fources are found, and thefe in lefs abundance ; nor 
are they endowed with equal grace and beauty of 
perfon. Yet the inhabitants-of Mowee appeared to 
me not only to have fome analogy in their form with 
thofe of Eafter Ifland, but in general even to pro- 
mife a more robuft conftitution, had it not been im- 
paired by difeafe. The common height of thefe peo- 
ple is about: five feet three inches ; they are rather of 
a fpare habit, of body, their features coarfe, their 
cye-brows. thick, their eyes -black, their look de- 
termined though. not ferocious, their asda sry 
MED; 


+ frefhened 
but little, 
piéturefque 
t.concourfe 
euvring in 
nd delight- 
n the 20th 
this ifland, 
and 158° 
ion: .Of this 
population 
ye had juft 
: before we 
0. brought 
vegetables, 
ch fuccefs, 
early three 
vegetables, 
and I be- 
where the 
equal good 
rt of com- 


Ty fupplies 
ds of pro- 
ey are far 
ance with 
f thofe re- 
lance ; nor 
beauty of 
ppeared to 
> form with 
en to pro- 
t been im- 
‘thefe peo- 
e rather of 
arfe, their 
look de- 
neek-bones 
high, 


EASTER AND MOWEE ISLANDS. 243 


high, and their. noftrils rather wide; their lips thick, 
their mouth large, as well as their teeth, which, how- 
ever, are very fine and regular. Some individuals 
were obferved to have loft one or more of their 
teeth; and a modern navigator fuppofes them to 
pull them out in grief, when mourning for their re- 
lations or friends ; but I could not obtain any infor- 
mation either to confirm or oppofe that opinion. 

This people are. apparently more mufcular, their 
beard more bufhy, and thcir body, as well as the pu- 
bis and pudendum, more hairy than in the inhabi- 
tants of Eafter Ifland. Thcir hair, which is black, 
is cut. into the form of an helmet, and a part which 
they fuffer to grow, reprefenting the plume, is red 
at the extremity, being coloured probably with the 
acid juice of fome vegetable. 

The women are much fmaller than the men, and 
poffefs neither the gaiety, fweetnefs, nor elegance of 
form of thofe at Eafter Ifland, being in general ill 
made, with coarfe features, and a gloomy counte- 
nance, and rude, ftupid, and aukward in their manners. 

The inhabitants of Mowee are gentle and pre- 
poffefling, and, in a manner, polite to ftrangers. 
They paint themfelves, tattoo their fkin, and pierce 
their ears and the cartilage of the nofe, in which 
they wear rings, by way of ornament. They are not 
circumcifed, but fome ufe a kind of infibulation, 


- drawing back the prepuce in front of the glans, 


and fixing it there with a ligature. The drefs of 
both fexes confifis of a piece of cloth covering the 
genitals, and another wrapped round their bodies. 
Thefe. cloths, made from the paper mulberry, are 
beautifully variegated, being painted with great 
tafte, and fuch various and, regular defigns, that we 
might. almoft fuppofe them intended to imitate our 
printed callicoes. Their houfes, collected into vil- 


Jages, are built in the mannet of thofe in Eafter 


Ifland, but their form is fquare. 
R2 With 


244: ON THE INHABITANTS OF 


With regard to the government of Mowee, I 
particularly obferved the inhabitants to be formed 
into various tribes, each of which is under the con- 
troul of its refpective chief. | | ‘ 

The excellence of the climate, and the fertility of 
the foil, would afford the inhabitants every medns 
of happinefs, did not leprofy and fyphilis rage among 
them, both very generally and with great violence. - 

” Thefe moft deftruétive and humiliating fcourges 
of the human race are diftinguifhed among thefe 
iflanders: by the following fymptoms, namely, bu- 
boes, and their cicatrices, with lofs of fubftance after 
fuppuration, warts, phagedænic ulcers, with caries 
of the bones, nodes, exoftofes, fiftulas, and tumors 
both of the lachrymal and falivary ducts; fcrophu- 
lous fwellings, inveterate opthalmia, ichorous ulcer- 
ations of the tunica conjunctiva, atrophy of the 
eyes, blindnefs, inflamed prurient herpetic eruptions, 
with indolent fwellings of the extremities; and among 
children by fcald heads, or the malignant tinea, from 
which runs a fetid and corrofive fanies. I remarked 
that the greater part of thefe unhappy victims of in- 
continence, when arrived at the age of nine or ten 
years, were feeble, languid, affected with marafmus, 
and ricketty. 

The indolent fwelling of the extremities, preva- 
lent among the people of Mowee, and which An. 
derfon, furgeon to Capt. Cook, las obferved among 
the greater part of the inhabitants of the iflands in 
the South Sea, is doubtlefs a fymptom of elephantia- 
fis confiderably advanced, as I am well affured from 
feveral obfervations I made on a great number of le- 
pers in the lazarettos at Madeira and Manilla. 

In this ftage of the leprofy the fkin has loft a por- 
tion of fenfibility ; and if the activity of the virus is 
not reftrained by proper regimen and fuitable treat- 
ment, the obftruéted parts foon entirely lofe their ir- 
ritability as well as their fenfibility; the fkin nese 

. {caly, 


Mowee, 1 
Je formed 
the con- 


fertility of 
ery medns 
ge among 
violence. - 
> fcourges 
ong thefe 
mely, bu- 
tance after 
vith caries 
nd tumors 
; fcrophu- 
ous ulcer- 
hy of the 
éruptions, 
and among 
tinea, from 
I remarked 
ims of in- 
nine or ten 
marafmus, 


ies, preva- 
which An. 
ed among 
iflands in 
elephantia- 
Hured from 
mber of le- 
illa. 

loft a por- 
the virus is 
able treat- 
bfe their ir- 
in becomes 
{ealy, 


EASTER AND MOWEE ISLANDS. 245 


fcaly, and phlyétænæ are formed, containing a fetid’ 
and corrofive fanies ; and thefe, unlefs carefully at- 
tended to, become gangrenous, or carcinomatous ul- 
cers. The naturcor quality of their food may concur, 
with the heat of the climate, to fupport and propa- 
gate this endemick difeafe of the adipofe membrane, 
The very pigs, which form the principal food of the 
inhabitants of Mowee, are affeéted with leprofy in a 
very high degree, and in great numbers. I examined 
fome, and found their fkins not only fcabby but full 
of fcurf, and entirely deftitute of hair. On opening 
them I found the cawl fprinkled with tubercles, 
and the vifcera fo full of them as to excite difguft 
in men not delicate in other refpects. Among the 
difeafes whofe ravages fo deplorably afflict thefe 
iflanders, there are fome which appear to be pro- 
duced by the venereal virus, in its greateft activity, 
though it more frequently appears in a degenerated 
form, of combined with the itch. 

Time and circumftances did not permit me to 
make any enquiries into the treatment employed by 
the inhabitants againft thefe difeafes, but to judge 
from their abandoning themfelves to grief, and the 
progrefs their infirmities have made, I fhould be led 
to think they are unacquainted with every means of 
M | themfelves from fo diftrefsful a fituation, 
or even of alleviating its miferies. | 

Was the venereal difeafe then firft communicated 
to the Sandwich Iflands by the failors who accompa- 
nied Captain Cook ? The progrefs which this difeafe 
had made among the inhabitants of Mowee, both in 
its propagation and all its confequent fymptoms of 
developement, when that navigator landed there nine 
months and a half after having communicated, for 
the firft time, with the iflands of Atooi and Onee- 
heow, added to the defects obfervable in the confor- 
mation of individuals of all ages, though they may 
not amount to demonftration, yet afford reafon to be- 

R 3 lieve 


246 ON THE INHABITANTS OF 


lieve that the venereal difeafe exifted there before 
Captain Cook difcovered thefe iflands, Some further 
roof of this may arife from his own affertions, 

hen he landed at Mowee he communicated with 
feveral of the natives who had brought him frefh 
provifions in their canoes fome leagues out at fea, 
On this oceafion he fays— I wifhed to preferve this 
 ifland free from the venereal difeafe, by forbidding 
“ my men all communication with the women of 
« the country ; but I foon perceived that it already 
“ exifted there, and I can only account for that 
* misfortune by fuppofing a communication with 
“ the neighbouring iflands.” 

This explanation is certainly the moft natural and 
fimple ; but it does not fufficiently account for even 
the poffibility of fuch a phenomenon. Though the 
iflands of Atooi and Onecheow are feparated from 
Mowee only by channels a few leagues wide, it 
does not follow that the communication between 
thefe iflands muft be fo eafy as to admit of fpread- 
ing the venereal difcafe, by that means, among the 
inhabitants of Mowee. It alfo appears, from the 
accounts of Captain Cook, that thefe iflands are 
rarely in amity with each other, without which it can- 
not be fuppofed their inhabitants would have fre- 

uent communications, And how can we reconcile, 
with fuch a fuppofition, the conduct of the inhabi- 
tants of Mowee towards that navigator at his landing 
on the ifland? Had thefe iflanders had caufe to com- 
plain fo bitterly of the ftrangers, who had recently 
landed among their neighbours, would they have pro- 
vided fo anxioufly for all their wants? Would they 
not rather have fhewn repugnance towards that na- 
vigator, inflead of incurring the dangers of carry- 
ing him the productions of their ifland ? Nor do 
I think we can account for fo rapid a contagion, 
without admitting that fyphilis may be propagated 
like epidemic difeafes, by a particular flate of the 
atmofphere, 


ere before 
mc further 
affertions, 
icated with 
him freth 
out at fea, 
referve this 
' forbidding 
women of 
t it already 
at for that 
ation with 


natural and 
nt for even 
Though the 
arated from 
es wide, it 
m between 
of fpread- 
among the 
, from the 
iflands are 
hich it can- 
| have fre- 
e reconcile, 
he inhabi- 
his landing 
fe to com- 
ad recently 
y have pro- 
N ould they 
s that na- 
s of carry- 
>» Nor do 
contagion, 
propagated 
ate of the 
tmofphere, 


EASTER AND MOWEE ISLANDS. 247 


atmofphere, concerning which exploded hypothefis 
experience has long undeceived evry intelligent fur- 
geon and phyfician. It has convinced us, this mala- 
dy cau neither be produced by unwholefome, food by 
contagion in the air, nor by the fpontaneous corrup- 
tion of the humours, but folely by immediate contact 
with perfons infected with the virus. 

Under all thefe confiderations it appears probable 
the venereal difcafe exifted in the Sandwich Iflands 
before Captain Cook landed there, and that it was 
either indigenous, or had becn carried thither by 
fome former navigator. 

Hiftorical and geographical refearches may afford 
fome light on the origin of the venereal difeafe in 
that clufter of iflands, but I omit to difcufs them as 
foreign to the intent of this paper *. 

GEOGRA- 


* Reminding the reader of the notes I have inferted in a former 
volume, T cannot refrain from obferving how injurious is the fpirit 
of fyftem, and how eager to reject all the arguments unfavourable 
to the opinion intended to be eflablifhed. The inhabitants of Mo- 
wee received Captain Cook with kindnefs, becaufe, perhaps, they 
were ignorant that to him they owed that cruel malady which had 
been communicated to them by their neighbours ; and experience 
proves that the authors of fimilar evils are readily pardoned, 
from the remembrance and fafcination of pleafure. La Péroufk, 
who came fome years-after to the Sandwich Iflands, might, in the 
eyes of the Indians, eafily be confounded with the: Enylifh. But 
did he difcover the leaft appearance of refentment? On the con- 
aah he tells us that the conduét of the women univerfally 
tended to renew a-communication which the men promoted. The 
dangers attending their exchanges, of which M. Rollin takes notice, 
have no exiftence with refpeét to men who, being ulmoft amphi- 
bious in their habits, find a moft powerful attraétion in a few trink- 
ets, or in the great utility of iron, which to them is fo precious, fo 
invaluable. As to the rapidity of its communication, can we be 
furprifed at it among a people who know no conjugal tie, or right 
of property in women, and regard no other laws than thofe of na- 
ture? 

I perfift, therefore, in the opinion, that my navigators, whether 
ancient or modern, who difcovered thefe-iflands of the South Sea, 
carried thither the venereal difeafe. I am, however, of opinion, 
with fome of the learned, that this difeafe was not even to us a con- 

R4 fequence 


248 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR 


GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR ON EASTER. ISLAND, 
By M. Bernizet, Geographical Engineer. 


On the sth of April, 1766, at’ halfipaft{fix in the 
evening, being’ to t e-eaftward of “Mand, the 


; à b be gp TER } 
land a au MR ve em ptédtin the firft 
view. The fummit A, and all the déclivities from it 
were very well défined ; the, two cxtremitics very 


ftecp, and almoft like peaks; the defcent, À H was 
indented from H, to nearly its middle,**with three 
leffèr fummits ; another defcent A I, on the contrary, 
formed two falient, and three returning flexures by 
no means abrupt. , Na 
The land; which ftretched to the north weft of this 
firft, was much: lefs diftin@, and its extremity almoft 
entirely obfcured in fog. The fummit K of its higheft 
bluff rifes to about two thirds of the higheft elevation, 
which is that of the hill A, and is almoft perpen- 
dicular at the northern extremity of the defcent K. 
Towards the north its defcent is gentle, having two 
falient and three returning flexures ; and towards the 
fouth, a fingle rife fhelving on both fides and faintly 


fequence of the difcovery of the continent of America, where it ap- 
pears to have been unknown till it was carried there by fome navi- 
ator ; while if we trace back its genealogy, we fhall find it had pro- 
ably an earlier exiftence in Europe. It might, however, have been 
introduced among us from the Antilles, and perhaps from the 
iflands of St. Domingo and Cuba... Be that as it may, let us ftill be 
jutt ;- and not forget,.under the impreflion of a malady againft 
whofe deftruétive ravages. we are able to defend ourfelves, and 
_ which appears to remit its fury while it extends its influence, that 
.on the other hand to the fame difcovery we are indebted for bark, 
ipecacuanha, gum, or more properly refin of copal, fimarouba, co- 
chineal, cocoa, guaiacum, maize, &c. befides the firft hints of many 
of our moft ufefuleftablifhments, fuch as our pofts and military hof- 
pitals. The arts cannot be unmindful of the knowledge, that difco- 
very has procured them, while the Americans themfelves have re- 
ceived very few benefits to compenfate the introduétion of the fmall 
ox, that {courge which they derived from us, and which has made 

uch incalculable ravages among them.—French Editor. 
defined, 


SLAND, 
reer, 


“fix in the 
“Mand, the 
can 
ties from it 

es very 
oe H was 
mith ‘three 
ke éontrary, 
flexures by 


weft of this 
mity almoft 
f its higheft 
ft elevation, 
oft perpen- 
defcent K. 
having two 
owards the 
and faintly 


a, where it ap- 
by fome navi- 
nd it had pro- 
er, have been 
aps from the 
» let us ftill be 
alady againft 
burfelves, and 
fluence, that 
bted for bark, 
marouba, co- 
hints of many 
i military hof- 
pe, that difco- 
elves have re- 
n of the {mall 
ich has made 


ph defined, 


PLAN 
and Views of 


EASTER ISLE, 


on the same Scale 


oid 


AW42S didtant 4 Leagues. LWA S.WaoWNorch dpe Wa? 30 WV. 


; View 4. Nord Gape 
Aron 


Published August 29,1790, hy 1 Stockdale, Piecadiyy, 


ON EASTER ISLAND, 249 


defined, unites this land to the former, at about one 
half its height. Its length is about three fourths of 
that from K to I. :: 

‘The elevation of land dvetohink to the S. W. of 
the point I, is not half the full height, and in length 
does not exceed half the diftance between I and H. 
Its outline is broken by B, little fteep hills, and one 
lower than thefe, which termtnates at the fouth with 
a gentle declivity towards the fea. The fog ‘which 
enveloped this laft, prevented me from taking its 
bearings, nor could we determine the full extent of 
the angle under which the ifland was feen. 


The fummit bore W. 4° fouth, diftant four leagues, 
The point I, weft by fouth one degree weft ; 
And the northernmoft cape, weft 1° 30/ north. 


On the Oth at 27 minutes pañt fix in the morning, 
the land appeared as in view the 2d. The middle of 
the ifland L appearcd joined, and of equal height with 
the fummit A of the moft cafterly hill mentioned above. 
To the fouth-weft of this hill we perceived two mam- 
melons B, each appeared of a very rapid and broken 
defcent, covered with whitifh rocks. Theland at the 
gaft point, which rofe before like a peak, now fenfibly _ 
funk and became almoft level with the two hills ; its 
elevation was then inconfiderable, and varied only 
tor about the length of a quarter of a league, by a lit- 
tle hill M, flat and broken off perpendicularly to the 
weftward. The mammelons appeared lefs diftant 
from the fea, and the coaft a little more advanced to 
the eaftward. Two hills C and D, in the fecond range, 
joined the mammelons by a gentle and very long de- 
clivity, with the middle of the ifland. Thcfe two 
hills were hollow in the middle of their fummit. The 
firft C, was the fmalleft, and appeared the neareft, 
Before it was a very inconfiderable rifing ground 
and behind it a high land, rather more diftant thar 
any we had perceived before, having two well define: 

fummits 


250 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR 


fummits, and joining at the back of the mammelons 
the low land mentioned before. 

The middle of the ifland appeared on the third 
range, and its declivity, which was uniform to the fea 
fhore, was interrupted only by a fmall rifing ground, 
nearly like that before the hill C. 

The fummit of the hill C appeared hollow, and 
nearer to the fea fhore. The breaks in its declivity 
were very apparent, and two {mall intermediate hills 
joined it with the center L, from which it appcared 
as far diftant on the fouth-weft, as it was from the 
hill G, on the north-eaft. This laft, which was nearly 
of the height of D, was more pointed and rather 
Tower than another to which it joined, toward the 
north-eaft. 

The hill N, next to it, was alfo rather higher, but 
its bafe was large, and its north-caftern declivity de- 
fcended a little lower than that toward the S. W. 
This laft adjoined that of the extremity of the ifland, 
which in this part is nearly as elevated as the middle 
L, and terminates perpendicularly. 

To the weftward of this point, a rock of the fhape 
of an obelifk, then became vifible, and afterwards a 
little iflot further in the offing, which from its little 
elevation could not be difcovered before. 

At 32 minutes paft 10, the land appeared as in view 
the third; the bafe of this obelifk being concealed 
behind the weftern extremity of this iflot. The coaft, 
which on the fouth-weft fide was very high, broken 
and peaked, prefented to the eye a large and decp 
inward finuofity, almoft perpendicular to the eaftern 
extremity of the iflot. This finus juft before refem- 
bled a large cut, which we were then furprifed to find 
was not continued to the level of the fea. Behind 
this and on the fecond range, was perceived a conti- 
nued creft, the fteep and rugged defcents of which 
appeared concave, and its centre being far from the 
eye, while the two extremities approached it, and 

converged 


con 
S. 
tal ; 
ed 
qua 
pol 
Coo 
wer( 
sw 
nor 
fa 
at ti 
Thi 
ftoo 
ward 
pen 
cut 
frot 
I 
pros 
fout 
twee 
T 
thar 
the 
tant 
land 
a lit 
mer 
whi 
fron 
I 
defc 
firu 
ed | 
that 
wef 
mid 


> mammelons 


on the third 
rm to the fea 
ifing ground, 


hollow, and 
1 its declivity 
rmediate hills 
h it appeared 
was from the 
ch was near! 
d and rather 
, toward the 


r higher, but 
declivity de- 
d the S. W. 
of the ifland, 
s the middle 


of the fhape 
afterwards a 
from its little 


ed as in view 
g concealed 
. The coaft, 
igh, broken 
ree and decp 
io the eaftern 
before refem- 
prifed to find 
fea. Behind 
ived a conti- 
nts: of which 
far from the 
ched it, and 
converged 


ON EASTER ISLAND. 251 


converged with the fummits of the point 2, and the 
5, W.cape. That of the latter was almoft. horizons 
tal; the other, on the contrary, gradually defcend- 
ed in irregular breaks, ftretching its bafe for three 
quarters of a league on the north-north-eaft, to a 
point 3, which is that furtheft to the fouthward. of 
Cook’s Bay, and ftands before the landing place. We 
were rather more than two leagues diftant, to the S. 
S. W., from this point 3, when we difcovered to the 
northward bearing N. 18° eaft, a low point behind a 
fall iflot, lower than the true point, and appearing 
at that diftance joined to it by its eaftern extremity. 
This was the northernmoft point of Cook’s Bay, 
ftood about three leagues diftant, and rofe gently to- 
wards the eaft, as far as a fummit O, whence a per- 
pendicular let fall to the edge of the fea, would have 
cut the point 3 to the eaftward at a finall diftance. 
from its extremity. 

This fummit appeared on the third range, and ap- 
proaching near the eye, as it defcended towards the 
fouth-eaft, it joined the land in front. half way be- 
tween the points 2 and 3. 

The mammelons or hammocks B, more defined 
than the lands adjoining the fummit O, appeared on 
the fame range, though they were much farther dif- 
tant. We began to lofe them behind the eafternmoft 
land of the fouth-weft cape, point 1; and above them 
a little more to the eafitward, we faw the fummit A, 
mentioned above, (views 1 and 2) the declivity of 
which had no other interruption in its courfe than 
from a very fall hill between it and the eaft point. 

From the refult of the courfes and bearings above 
defcribed, the chart of Eafter Ifland. has been, con- 
firudted. Each of the principal points was determin- 
ed by feveral operations ; and from thence it follows, 
that this ifland lies very nearly eaft-north-eaft and 
weft-fouth- weft in its greateft length, taken from the 
middle of the eaftern cape, to the wefiernmoft point 
of 


252 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR 


of the fouth-weft cape. A line connecting thefe 
two points, would pafs within the land along the 
fouth-eaftern coaft; it would be rather more than 
four leagues in length, and parallel to another line 
joing the fouthernmoft land of the eaft cape, to the 
fouthernmoft land of the fouth-weft cape ; and the 
interval between thefe two lines would be very near 
half a league. 

A line running along the weftern coaft, and join- 
ing the wefternmoft and northernmoft points, would 
lie in a direétion north-north-eaft and fouth-fouth- 
weft; its length would be two leagues and three 
quarters; and interfecting Cook’s Bay, would not 
pafs over the Jand till beyond.the north point of that 
bay. 

A third Hine, beginning at the north point, and 
ending in the middle of the eaftern cape, would run 
along the north coaft, which is the third fide of the 
ifland, interfecting the two moft confiderable points, 
Gonzales Bay, where the Spaniards anchored in Oc- 
tober 1770, and the northernmoft land of the eaftern 
cape. This line muft run ceaft by fouth 5° fouth, 
and weft by north 5° north. Its length is two 
leagues three quarters. 

The figure of this ifland is therefore an ifofceles 
triangle, the longeft fide of which, on the fouth-eaft, 
is rather more than four leagues, the adjacent angles 
meafure each 41°, that oppofite the bafe 98° and the 
northern and “weftern fides, are cach two leagues 
three quarters long. 

From thefe data, it would be eafy to afcertain its fu- 
perficial meafurement; but the calculation would be 
imperfect, and the amount lefs than the true quanti- 
ty, becaufe the total meafurement of the capes and 
points flretching into the fea is greater than that of 
the fweep of the creeks and bays. This: amount 
would, therefore, be found only 30,870,671 fquare 

toifes 


ecting thefe 
ad along the 
r more than 
another line 
cape, to the 
pe; and the 
be very near 


aft, and join- 
points, would 
 fouth-fouth- 
es and three 
y, would not 
point of that 


th point, and 
e, would run 
rd fide of the 
erable points, 
hored in Oc- 
of the eaftern 
th 5° fouth, 
ength is two 


e an ifofceles 
e fouth-eaf, 
ijacent angles 
08° and the 
two leagues 


certain its fu- 
ion would be 
true quanti- 
he capes and 
than that of 
This: amount 
0,671 fquare 
toifes 


ON EASTER ISLAND. © 253 


toifes *, inftead of 34,935,319, which is about the 
true meafurement of its fuperficies. The difference 
of thefe two fums is 4,004,648 toifes, very nearly 

ual to + of a fquare league : and the whole fuper- 
ficial extent is therefore four fquare leagues and two 
tentlis. : 

The depth of water in Cook’s bay, varies from ten 
fathoms over a bottom of coral at 200 toifes from 
the fhore, to 50 fathoms with a bottom of fand and 
ftones, at the diftance of half a league weft of the 
fandy creek. The bottom fhelves rapidly, and an an- 
chor will not hold, except for a fmall fpace round 
the place where our fhips lay ; a little further in the 
offing the depth would be too great to anchor in; and 
nearer the land the coral would cut the cables, and by 
the wefterly winds blowing in fhore a veflel would be 
embayed on the coaft. ‘Thefe winds, which are very 
rare in this parallel, would not, however, be {0 ftrong 
as to prevent her from getting to the northward. 

From the chart of this ifland given by the Spani- 
ards it appears, the fame foundings are met with 
nearly throughout its whole circumference. By this 
chart I have laid down the north coaft, which we 
were not able to fee as near as the twoothers. The 
Spaniards anchored on the open coaft, and in foul 
ground ; and the prevailing winds there blowing al- 
ways in fhore, there is no reafon to prefer their an- 
chorage to that of Cook’s Bay. 

The particular plan of this bay has been taken by a 
fingle operation, eftimating at each bearing the dif- 
tances which, in the courfe of furvey, were deduced 
from the points already laid down. The topography 
is the lefs firiking, as the declivity of the different 
bluffs is more gentle, and the fteepneffes are lefs nu- 


* The Paris toife, as fet off on the ftandard kept in the Royal 
Society, contains 76,710 Englith inches by the fame ftandard; and 
the Englifh yard is to the Paris toife nearly as 107 to 228.— 
Tranflator’s note, 


merous : 


254. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR 


merous : yet it would be difficult to reach their fum- 
mits, on-account of the. immenfe..quantity...of fiones. 


which. cover the furface, wereyit not, for paths whic, 
intesfect, aap ifland in all,dire@ions.. Thelwidth of 
thefe : does not: exceed: a foot. and a half; they. 


were all firm and unobftracted with any ftones, lead, 


ing ping ly tothe huts and cemeteriesor morais, 
Some of; t su 


dal, The walls, A, are very thick ; the roof, B, 
fig. Fe ie of large fiones, a little arched withs 
in fides. wad placed acrofs, refting at both,ends on the 
wpright wall. À fmall opening, C, at the, extremity 
of the Anal axis, D, ferves for a door anda window; 
only.one perfon at a time can pafs through it, and 
that,not without. crawling on his hands and kneea, 
The walls are neither plaiftered: nor roughicaft, and 
the infide i is not divided into different apartments. : 


Feet. 
24 Frengh 
“16 


Length of the tranfverfe axis 
of the conjugate’ ditto 
Height i in the center - 

* ‘Height at the top of the ellipfis 
Thigknefs of the wall 2 
Height of the aperture or door 

“Width of ditto - oe - 


Ten fect before the opening, ian on the elongation 
of the.fmall axis, is a door G, the fummit of which 
is below the level of the ground. The uprights H, 
the cornice I, and the fill K land K H ig. 2.) are 
of ftones very well fquared and fitted amir, A - 
out cement. The approach to it is by a uniform de- 
fcent L (fig. 3.) the declivity of which is very gentle, 
and the earth fupported on each fide by a lining of 
ftones;: moft of which are 2 feet 10 inches long, 2 
feet broad, and 10 inches thick. Four fteps of a /ad- 
der N, alfo of hewn ftone, terminate the. flope, a 

ea 


aly & 


fe huts are. sconftructed of dry rough, 
flonc{vide à eps fig. 1.) and, their fhape ellipfois. 


ÉD AE Se wae 1 ‘ 


AR pate. - eme 


CL LCL 


h their fum- 
ty..of-fioncs. 
paths whick, 
‘he width of 
a half; they, 
ftones, leads. 
egor morais, 
dry rough, 
ape ellipfois. 
the roof, B, 
arched withs 
vends on the, 
he,extremity. 
da window, 
ough it, and 
, and knees, 
yh jcaft, and 
artments. : 


24 French, 


t 


’ 


Oly ; Hs 
are 4 ; 
. 


© © à À 


e elongation 
mit of which 
- uprights Hy, 

(fig. 2.) are 
wether with- 
uniform de- 
s very gentle, 
ry a lining of 
ches long, 2 
teps of a lad- 
€ flope, and 


lea 


te 


SE D'LA wor 


LLEELLODDP - 


eZ ee 


|_| 


AEA tATATA == 


\F 


tad 


a 
Le 


2.240) IDOLÊ 21,10 FFORLOZ 


ms 
zt 


LCL Lo 


CZ 


is 

| sl 

| i 
UE | = 
1 & 
NN | \ > 
\Q - 


zp: 
ila Lc 


OW 227 ROUX MOTE PE Jo UNOS 


UD) Wail D 10 UIPIS 


OF, EASTER ISLAND, . 255 


lead to the, entrance, of a fubterraneous; cavern O, ex- 
cavated from the rock: Its form,, which, except in 
fize, exactly refembles that, of the cottage above 
ground, is truncated at one of the fummits P of the 
elliptical bafe. ' | F 

The iflanders in forming thefe caverns, have often 
taken advantage of natural cavities, which are fre- 
quently found. in the. maflas.formed by the torrents of 
lava, For this reafon they. are often irregular, and 
fome.are found at a diftance from;any cottage ; but 
wherever the projecting points of the rock can be 
removed by fimple means, they feem always to give 
them their favourite fhape, and then the mean di- 
menfions of them are as follow. 


let Feet. Inches. 
Depth of the cavern, er length. of its 
 tranfverfe axis : … - - - 30 O 
Width at the middle - - - 11 0 
Height inthe center - - : - 5 6 
Width of the door - - - 2.0 
Height of ditto -  -  - 2/3. 0 


In thefe fubterraneous caverns the inhabitants ftore 
their, provifions, utenfils, wood,, and in general alt 
their poffeffions. 

At a {mall diftance from the cottage and cavern 
san oven without a covering ; being only a round 
hole dug in the earth, the-area and walls of which are 
lined with rough ftones. 


Its diameter is wi $ 3 feet. 
Depth - - - 2 


It may be remarked alfo that in the elevation (fig. 
4,) the north-eaft fide, on which the winds general-. 
ly blow, is higher than the reft, and that the top of 
the cottage ferves for aterrace. This kind of fcreen 
may alfo protect them againft the rain, which, coming 
in fqualls, feldom falls perpendicularly. i 

-T 


256 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR 


” The fame plan is obferved in other cottages fituat- 
éd in the middle of confiderable plantations. Thefe 
have the ellipfis of the ground plan A ‘vety eccentric 
(fig. 5.) and are very natrow in proportion to their 
length. Their foundations B are of hewn ftone funk 
throughout their breadth in the ground. Their aver- 
agé length is two feet, and their thicknefs fix inches, 
having holes at different intervals to receive the ftakes 
C (fig. 6.) each ferving for main timbers, and meeting 
other tranfverfe ftakes D, Thefe laft terminate the 
roof, and are fupported by perpendicular ftakes E, 
fixed in the ground at intervals of ten feet. The 
main timbers are bound Es Ne by tranfverfe perches 
reaching along the whole length at two feet diftance 
from each other. The higheft point isin the center, 
and if a plane perpendicular to the tranfverfe axis of 
the ellipfis were made to- pafs through the roof, this 
would alfo be of a femi-clliptical form. (See the 
plan, the framing and the vertical fection, taken lon- 
gitudinally, fig. 5,6, 7.) - The whole is covered with 
rufhes of nine or ten lines-diameter at the lower énd, 
united together like matts, by threads twifted with 
the hand. The two doors, one on each fide, are not 
larger than thofe of the fmall cabins ; and the oven 
of the fame fize with that before defcribed, is palifa- 
doed to the windward. 


. Tranfverfe axis of the ellipfis 310 feet. 

, Conjugate ditto - - 10 
Height at the center - 10 
Height at the extremities es ae 
Widthatditto” - - | 3 


‘ Tt cannot be faid, however, that the form of the 
large dwellings is invariable ; for fome of them make 
towards the middle, either in the ground plan or the 
elevation, a fharper curvature than that of the ellipfis. 

+ The finall cabins are of the ordinary form; and moft 
of them fo very fmall as not without difficulty to afford 

: room 


ttages fituat- 
ions. Thefe 
ety eccentric 
tion to their 
m ftone funk 
Their aver- 
efs fix inches, 
ive the ftakes 
,and meeting 
‘erminate the 
ular ftakes E, 
n feet. The 
fverfé perches 
> feet diftance 
in the center, 
ifverfe axis of 
the roof, this 
m. (See the 
on, taken lon- 
3 covered with 
he lower end, 
s twifted with 
fide, are not 
and the oven 
bed, is palifa- 


310 feet. 
10 
10 
A 
3 


e form of the 
of them make 
d plan or the 
of the ellipfis. 
orm; and moft 
culty to afford 
room 


ON EASTER ISLAND. 257 


room enough for fix perfons. Some have at the en- 
trance a covered portico, which architects would per- 
haps call either a niche or perifyle, though it deferves 
neither the one nor the other of thefe names. . 

There are alfo hollow rocks, under which the 
islanders find fhelter. The {oil of thefe retreats is co- 
vered with rufhes, and the wind freely circulates 
through them, whence they appear to be intended for 
fummer habitations. | 

The cemeterics or moraïs, (fig. 8,9, and 10,) 
are of a more remarkable conftruction ; and though 
their dimenfions are very various, they are conftantly 
of the fame undeviating form. On an inclined plane, 
like that of the foil, is erected a floping wall A, 
built with the hewn ftones before defcribed. The 
height of this wall is proportioned to the declivity of 
the ground ; and on its fummit is fixed a horizontal 
platform B, made of rough ftone, on which are 
placed horizontally, and let into the former, rectan- 
gular pieces of hard ftone C, as a bafe for fupport- 
ing feveral almoft fhapelefs maffes D, refemabling 
bufts. To thefe figures are added, as may be feen 
in the plate, crowns or capitals E, perfectly cylin. 
drical, and a little concave in the under part, to 
admit the head. This is of red lava, extremely 
light and porous. Two fteps F, below the plat- 
form, made in the fame manner, and covered with 
the fame fione, lead, by a gentle defcent, to an ef- 
planade, bounded by a kind .of parapet, apparently 
made of the earth which bad been dug up to level 
the ground. There are alfo fome fteps, on the upper 
part of which is a plinth, running along the whole 
length, on which arc rudely .reprefented the figures 
of recumbent fkeletons, Near the lower ftep, to- 
wards the,efplanade, are entrances or narrow trenches, 
leading to a fubterraneous cavern, in which are a great 
quantity of human bones. Of this cavern the form 

Vou. II. lial is 


258 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR . 


is vory irregular, and its fize by no means depends 
even on that of the morai. 


Feet. Inches, 


Height of the wall = - 
*Length of the platform 
Breadth of ditto - 
Height of the fteps 
Breadth of ditto - 
art of the efplanade 
adth of ditto - - 
eight ofalarge buft = - - 
from the ‘bafe to the chin - 
———— from the chim to the top of 
the head - 
to the underpart of the nofe 
Length of the nofe - - - 
Projcétion of the nofe - - 
Breadth of the nofe at the lower part 
Length of the cars - e 
Longeft digmeter of the orbit 
Ditto of the e 
Leffer ditto of À the eye - = 
Breadth at the bafe - - 
at the ears - - 
at the fhoulders - 
at the neck - + 
Thicknefs at ditto - - 
rat the belly - - 
a ft of the capital - , 
iameter - e - 


SOC 90000 


ch 
Or DOOSHOSOCOCOROPQ 


à OO © © D NS GO OO = KH NH O- be a 


Thefe meafures are taken from one of the monu- 
monts in particular; their dimenfions are extremely 
various. Although moft of the fiones ufed in thete 
ftructures ave very well fquared, it may ‘he remarked, 


* We faw one 267 feet long. 
+ Almoft all of them are much fmaller, L 
that 


ans depends 
Feet. Inches, 
8 O 
80 DO 
12 O 
2 oO 
3 0 
384 O 
324 O 
14 6 
g 6 
5 O 
1 6 
] 8 
© 10 
‘ 1 2 
2 O 
1 O 
1 oO 
O 10 
6 o 
5 3 
7 6 
4 0 
3 O 
3 6 
3} 
4 9 
bf the monu- 


are extremely 
ufed in thete 
‘he remarked, 


that 


ON EASTER ISLAND. ‘ 259 


that fome of them are rather convex on every fide ; 
which feems to fhew they have not been cut, but 
ground into fhape; and the exact parallelifm of the 
greater part is no proof to the contrary, as the de: 
gree of perfection muft depend on the fkill of the 
workman. The difficulty of carrying and raifing 
them, without machines, will difappear when it is 
confidered, that by a certain number of hands, fome 
ropes, two levers, and three wooden rollers, the 
heavieft maffes may not only be ‘drawn, but raifed 
and fet up. 

Their plantations are very numerous, and the fields, 
which are planted with yams and potatoes, are all of 
a rectangular figure. They have not, like fome of 
the paper-mulberry plantations, either hedge or en- 
clofure. Thofe of the bananas are difpofed in the 
order called quincunx *, and kept up with great 
care. The coaft is every where ficep, and there are 
very few creeks that afford a landing. It is remark- 
able that no channels are met with directing the 
courfe of the water, which is doubtlefs loft among 
the innumerable loofe ftones with which the ifland 
is covered. Not a fingle river, or even a brook, 
watered any of the places we vifited ; and only a few 
inconfiderable cavities, on the tops of rocks, con- 
tained a fmall quantity of very ill-tafted water. Trees 
are no lefs fcarce, for we could difeover nothing juftly 
deferving that name. | 

At nine in the morning, of the 10th of April, 
the ifland being diftant about 13 leagues, appcared 
as in view (4.) At the middle of the ifland, about 
the fummit of North Cape, though involved in mift, 
we could diftinguifh its efcarpments ; it joined the 
fea, on the weftern fide, by a pretty gentle and 
regular declivity. The eaftern fide was alfo very 


* This arrangement exactly refembles that of the five pips.on 
Playing cards. Jranflatar. 


S 2 regular, 


260 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 


regular, and rather longer than the foriner. The 
height at the two points, called by the Spaniards Sax 
Juan and Sania Rofaha, rifing above it at its extre- 
mity, appeared in front ; and the low lands of the 
coaft, between the three principal capes, were ob- 
fcured. The fummit A of the eaftern cape, indif- 
tint, and completely feparated from the reft, ap- 
peared like another ifland. Its height was half that 
of the middle, and the interval between the two was 
equal to the bafe of the principal divifion. That of 
the eaftern cape appeared only equal to a quarter of 
the former. 

The fouth-weft cape was ftill perceivable in the 
weft, though very low and indiftinét ; it was almoft 
flat, and its diftance from the central land was only 
half the bafe of this latter. 

The fummit of the ifland bore S. 15° E. 

The fummit of A, the eafiern cape, S. 25° E. 

And the fouth-weftern cape, S. 9° E. 


(Signed) BERNIZET. 


On board the Bouffole, April 18, 1786. 


mena © vf © Elena 


PHYSIOLOGICAL AND PATHOLOGICAL MEMOIR ON 
THE AMERICANS. 


By M. Rollin, M. D. Surgeon Major of the Boufolt 
Frigate. 


WHEN I firft commenced this undertaking, I was 
unacquainted with the paper of inftructions fent by 
the Medical Coilege to M. de la Péroufe : unforefeen 
accidents deprived me of that affiftance, but though 
I may not have completely obtained the object which 
the College has propofed, I entreat them to receive 
with indulgence, my obfervations on the fame aon 


oriner. The 
Spaniards San 
. at its extre- 
lands of the 
pes, were ob- 
1 cape, indif- 

the reft, ap- 
was half that 
a the two was 
ion. That of 
o a quarter of 


eivable in the 
it was almoft 
land was only 


Oh: 
S. 25° E. 
E. 


BERNIZET. 


MEMOIR ON 
if the Bouffole 


ertaking, I was 
étions fent by 

fe : unforefeen 
e, but though 
e object which 
em to receive 
e fame fubject. 
Of 


ON THE AMERICANS. 261 


Of the Natives of Chili. 


In the frame of body which thefe Americans have 
received from Nature, there appears nothing cxtraor- 
dinary. Their ftature is generally lower than that 
of the French, and they appear much lefs robuft : yet 
they fupport with fortitude all the fatigues of war, 
and the hardfhips and privations which follow in its 
train. On various occafions they have checked the 
arms of the Spaniards, and fomctimes even borne 
away the palm of victory. Their hiftory abounds in 
examples of courage, by which they have defervedly 
obtained even from the proudeft of the Spaniards; 
the glorious appellation of Indios bravos, or brave 
Indians ; a title, the remembrance of which fill re- 
flets a ray of honour on their fubjugated defcendants. 

The fame general character of countenance is re- 
markable in almoft every individual of this nation. 
Their face is broad, and rounder than that of Euro- 
peans; their features coarfe; their eyes fmall, dull, 
black, and deep-feated. ‘Their forehead is low, their 
eyebrows black and full; and their nofe fhort, broad, 
and flat. They have prominent cheek-bones, thick 
lips, a large mouth, a chin that projects but little, and 
ears of the ordinary fhape. 

The women are fmall, ill made, and of a forbidding 
countenance. I did not fee one among them that 
could boaft that foftnefs of feature, that grace and 
elegance of form which conftitute the ufuai charac- 
teriftic of the fex. 

Both men and women pierce their ears, and the 
cartilage of the nofe, which they ornament with 
trinkets of glafs and mother of pearl. The colour 
of their fkin is a reddifh brown, and that of their 
nails fomewhat deeper. The hair of both fexes is 
black, very ftrong, and very thick. The men have 
very little beard, but their axillæ, and pubis, are 

D 3 | very 


262 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 


very well fupplicd, while the women are in general 
without hair in both thofe parts. 
Of the Aborigines of California, 

This nation is fituated at the fame. diftance. from 
the line in the northern hemifphere, as the inhabi- 
tants of Chiliin the fouthern. 

During our ftay at Montcrey I had occafion to 
examine a great number of individuals of both fexes, 
and I obferved but little refemblance between them 
and. the natives of Chili, They are taller, and their 
mufcles more ftrongly marked, but they are not fo 
courageous or intelligent. They have low forcheads, 
black and thick eyebrows, black and hollow eyes; a 
fhort nofe deprefitd at the root, and their check--bones 
projecting. They have a mouth rather large, thick 
lips, {trong and fine teeth, and a chin and ears of the 
common form. They are extremely indolent, very in- 
curious, and almoft ftupid. In walking they turn in 
their toes, and even their ftep, thus tottering and in- 
firm, difcovers at firft fight their characteriftic pufil- 
Janimity. | 

‘The women of California have fome particular qua- 

lities peculiar to themfelves, and not obfervable in 
thofe of Chili. They are taller and their limbs more 
regularly formed ; their figure is generally better dc- 
fined, and their countenance lefs forbidding. 
The hair of both thefe nations is very nearly fimi- 
lar, but the Californians have their beard and their 
pubis more covered with it than the natives of Chili. 
Yet I have remarked a great number of the men to- 
tally devoid of beard, and the women alfo have very 
little hair either on the pudendum or in the axillæ. 
I was: informed thefe particulars were folely the ef- 
fects of art, and that the men are accuftomed to pluck 
out. their beards, and the women thefe tufts of hair 
with bivalved fhells or a cleft ftick. 

Fhis affertion appeared to be confirmed, by ob- 

ferving 


are in general 


id. 


diftance from 
s the inhabi. 


d occafion to 
of both fexes, 
between them 
ler, and their 
hey arc not fo 
ow aps 
ollow eyes ; 

r cheek. hanes 
er large, thick 
nd ears of the 

olent, very in- 
| they turn in 
tering and in- 


Steriftic pufil- 


articular qua- 
obfervable in 
‘ir limbs more 
lly better de- 
ding. 
y nearly fimi- 
sard and their 
tives of Chili, 
f the men to- 
alfo have very 
in the axille. 
folely the ef. 
med to pluck 
 tufts of hair 


rmed, by ob- 
ferving 


ON THE AMBHICANS, 266: 
ferving that fome of the men who were béardlefs, had: 
notwithftanding a great deal of hair on other parts of 
their bodies, anid the’ women whofe axillas and: pu- 
denda were bare, had a quantity of downy hair on! 
their legs and arins: 

- Thefe Americans alfo paint their fkin by wa of 
ornament. ‘They pearce their ears and wear inithemi 
trinkets of various kinds and fafhions. ‘Their fkin is 
tawny, and their nails of a lighter colour: thar: thofe 
ofthe inhabitants of Chili. 


Of the Americans who inhabit the Neighbourhood of 
Baie des Françass. 


THESE people bear very little refemblince:to the 
Californians. They are larger, more robuft, of 4 
more agreeable figure, fufceptible of the: greateft vi- 
vacity of expreffion, and are'very fuperior to'thent in 
courage and intellect. They Rave rather’a low fore- 
head, but more open than that of the Americans of 
the fouth : ; black and animated eyes; much’ thicker 
eyebrows, a nofe of a regular fhaÿe and fize, rather 
wide at the’ extremity s lips not flefhy; a mouth of 
a middle fize, fine and’ well fet tecth,. and the chin 
and ears: very regular. 

The women are equally fuperior to thé Americans 
I have fpoken of, and have more fiwéetnefs in’ their 
countenance, as well’ as moré grave in their limbs. 

Their faces would be fill more agreeable, if they 
had not adopted the abfurd cuftom of w earing. as an 
embellithment in their under lip;-a-fimall piece of wood 
of an elliptical form. It is a little concave on both 
fides, as well as round the edges, and is commonly 
half an inch thick, two inches in diameter, and three 
in length. 

This lip-piece not only disfigures them, but caufes 
an involuntary flow of faliva, equally’ inconvenient 
and diiguiting ; yet the women alone ufe it as an 
ornament, 


064 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 


ornament, and prepare their infant girls from the mo, 
ment of their birth for its reception. 

For that purpofe, they pierce the under lip witha 
kind of pin, either of copper or gold, which they 
leave in the aperture, or fix in it a ring of the fame 
metal, which the girls retain till the age of puberty, 
At this period they gradually increafe the aperture, 
by fubftituting in lieu of this pin or ring, firft a fmall, 
and then a larger piece of wood, progreffively in- 
creafing its fize, till it attains to the dimenfions before 
ftated. | 

This frange cuftom fhows how far the lip may be 
dilated to remedy the deformity of thefe parts, when 
chirurgical ‘operations render a partial defiruction of 
them neceffary. 

This people are of an olive colour; and their 
nails, which they wear very long, are of a fainter hue; 
but it may be remarked that the fkin varies jn its 
fhades, being lighter in fome individuals, and on 
thofe parts of the body which are not expofed to the 
action of the air and fun. 

Their hair is commonly not fo firong and black, 
as thofe of the South American, and I obferved a 
great many individuals, in whom its colour was that 
of achefnut. They have alfoa fuller beard, and the 
axillæ and pubis much better fupplied with hair. 

The perfect equality of their teeth, induced me at 
firft to fuppofe it the effect of art, but on examin- 
ing more nearly, and with greater attention, I could 
perceive no deftruétion of the enamel, and therefore 
concluded nature muft have conferred on them that 
regularity. 

This nation paint their body and face, tattoo them- 
felves, and pierce their ears, and the cartilage of the 
nofe. 

Some writers imagine the cuftom of painting the 
body, which prevails fo univerfally among the nations 
of Africa, of the Weft Indies, and of America, is on- 


ly 


om the mo. 


r lip witha 
which they 
of the fame 
of puberty, 
he aperture, 
firft a fmall, 
reffively in- 
fions before 


lip may be 
parts, when 
efiruction of 


; and their 
fainter hue; 
varies jn its 
als, and on 
pofed to the 


r and black, 
I obferved a 
bur was that 
ard, and the 
th hair. 

uced me at 
on examin- 
ion, I could 
d therefore 
them that 


attoo them- 
ilage of the 


painting the 
the nations 
erica, is on- 


ly 


ON THE AMERICANS. 265 


ly intended as a defence againft venomous. infeéts ; 
but my own obfervation led me to believe its fole ob-. 
ject is to adorn and embellifh their perfons. 

J found the fame cuftom eftablifhed among the in- 
habitants of Eafter Ifland, and the natives of Baie 
des Francais, Yet I faw among thefe people neither 
infects nor reptiles of a venomous nature, I re- 
marked alfo, that they never painted their bodies ex- 
cept when they came to vifit us, and that in their 
own habitations they were neyer found with this or- 
nament, 


General Obfervations. 


Thofe writers who have confidered the Ameri 
cans as a degenerate race have followed the wander- 
ings of their own imagination, without any regard ta 
truth, i 

Some have even extended this reproach of dege- 
neracy to Eyropeans naturalized in America: but a 
Wafhing* »n, an Adams, and a Franklin, have already 
refuted that aflertion, with the greateft honour to 
themfelves, and rendered any difcuffion of the fub- 
ject from me fuperfluous. 

To me it appears, thefe writers have been equally 
unhappy in thejr opinions upon the pretended de- 
generacy of animals, brought from the ancient to the 
new continent, 

As ta the exiftence of any defect or particular mo- 
dification in the internal ftruéture of the parts of ge- 
neration in thefe nations, which has been alfo attri- 
buted to the degencracy of the human fpecies in 
America, I have not had any poffible means ot mak- 
ing the refearchcs neceflary to determine the fact. 
But judging of the organifation of thofe parts from 
the perfection of their external appearance, I fhould 
deem them completely free from defect, 

Nor have I ever difcovered among thefe people 
cither an enlargement of the fcrotum, a prodigious 

{welling 


266 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 

fwelling of the penis, or men whofe breafts yield milk 
as deferibed by fome navigators; neither have I ob. 
ferved any favage nation {wifter of foot, or more: per- 
fect in the organs of fenfe than Europeans: If any 
difference exifts in the perfection of thefe faculties, the 
advantages preponderate in favour of civilized nations, 
* ‘The natural progrefs of life among thefe nations, 
in all its periods of increafe and decay, appears to be 
the fame as with us, but the climate, their mode of 
life, and other habits, may have introduced fome 
flight differences. 

At Chili and. California the appearance of the 
beard and the change of the voice announce the 
age of puberty, in males about their thirteenth year, 
The girls arrive at puberty about the age of eleven 
or twelve, of which the enlargement of the breafts, 
and the appearance of the menftrual flux are the 
ofual indications. The quantity of this periddical 
evacuation varies, in different individuals, according 
to their conftitution and manner of living. If no 
accident interrupts the natural courfe, it takes place 
every month, and continues from three toreight days, 
Women are fubject to it until about the fortieth 
year, but it is not uncommon for fome to: afford 
figns of fecundity at a more advanced age. 

Old age and decrepitude announce themfelves 
among thefe nations, as in civilized’ countries, by 
the decreafe of the humours, the lofs or decay of 
the fight and other fenfes, and a change of colour in 
the hair of the head and beard. 

Women who have borne feveral children have their 
breafts loofe and pendent, and the fkin of the pelvis 
corrugated, like Europeans in fimilar cafes, without 
any obfervable difference. 

Thefe nations have very nearly the fame paffions, 
the fame fports, and the fame manner of living; 
are equally violent in the expreffion of joy and an- 
ger, which the flighteft aCtion is fufficient to exe" 


") huic 


ts yield milk 
>have I ob. 
ir more: per- 
ans: Tf any 
faculties, the 
ized nations, 
jefe nations, 
ppears to be 
1eir mode of 
duced fome 


ance of the 
nnounce the 
rteenth year, 
re of eleven 
f the breatts, 
flux are the 
is periodical 
ls, according 
ving. If no 
t takes place 
toreight days, 
t the fortieth 
me to' afford 


ge. 

e themfelves 

countries, by 

s or decay of 
of colour in 


ren have their 
of the pelvis 
afcs, without 


ame pañlions, 
er of living; 
f joy and ai an- 
ent to exe: 
d'ho vic 


ON THE AMERICANS. 267 
Thofe of Baie des Francais ave addicted to theft, 
audacious, irrafcible to an excefs, and the moft ta 
be dreaded by ftrangers. 

Their food is commonly game or fifh; “but al- 
though hunting and fifhing afford them an abun- 
dant fupply of freth provifions, they prefer fich as are 
tainted and almoft ina ftate of putrefaétion, rather 
than give themfelves the leaft trouble to procure 
wholefome food. ‘Their love of indolence renders. 
them: ftill lefs: delicate in the preparation of their 
aliment. When. prefled by hunger they take no 
trouble to: drefs their food, but fimply broil-it on the 
afhes, or boil it in a wooden bowl, full of water, 
throwing in redshot ftones, which they renew, until 
the operation of cooking is completed. 

The hours of eating are fometimes determined by 
their appetite, but in general each: family aflémbles. 
at the clofe of the day to their common repaf. 

The inhabitants of California and Baie des Fran- 
çais, make no ufe of vegetables, except a few pine- 
nuts, and other fummer fruits, which, . however, 
conftitute no effential part of their food. Idlenefs 
alone makes them ubftemious, but when abundance 
tempts, they become voracious gluttons. 

Thefe nations are divided into hords, each of 
which commonly forms:a little hamlet. Their cabins 
are made of rufhes, or the branches of trees, fupport- 
ed with four ftakes, and: covered chiefly with flattened 
bark. They are either of a fquare or conical form, 
afford little protection from the weather, and are 
neither ftable nor commodious. The entrance is low 
and narrow ; and the hearth being placed in ihe mid- 
dle.of the hut, the fmoke efcapes throug! 1 a hole in 
the roof. 

The Americans lie together on fkins, fatead round 
the fire‘in a diforderly manner, without any diftinc- 
tion, either of fex or age. They are very carelefs in 
the conftruétion of their huts, as from the cxtreme 

volatility 


268 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 


volatility of their character they foon abandon them 
for others, which they not-unfrequentty ereét by the: 
fide of thofe they have juft quitted. For thefe 
erections they prefer the banks of rivers, and the 
fouth fide of mountains. ARTE 

The only dwellings I faw on this coaft, that were 
folid and of tolerable magnitude, belonged to an 
horde that had fettlcd on the banks of a {mall river, 
well fupplied with fith, about four miles from Baie 
des Français. Thefe cabins were conftruéted of large 
boards, or very thick planks ; they were of a rectan- 
gular form, about fifteen feet: in‘ height, and would ' 
contain thirty or forty perfons. The doors, which 
were low and narrow, opened by fliding in grooves, 
Within nothing remarkable prefented itfelf. We 
could only perceive a kind of feat, on which the 
women and children were occupied in making va- 
rious domeftic utenfils. On the little river adjoining 


thefe habitations a fifhery was eftablifhed, the con- 
ftruction and difpofition of which is no lefs inge- 


nious than at that defcribed by M, Duhamel. 

The men devote themfelves chiefly to warlike ex- 
exercifes, to hunting and to fifhing. Their arms 
confifting of the bow, the javelin, and the dagger, 
The women, on the contrary, feem peculiarly occu- 
pied in the preparation of their food, and the domef- 
tic concerns of their family. Though they live un- 
der the dominion of men of a very ferocious difpo- 
fition, I could not difcover that they are treated in 
the barbarous manner which navigators commonly 
reprefent : I even remarked that, on many occafions, 
they were regarded with refpect and deference. 

It appears that thefe nations admit of polygamy, 
but their marriages laft no longer than is agree- 
able to both parties. To the exclufive poffeffion of 
their women they attach little importance, often en- 
dcavouring to make a market of their favours, which 

they 


indon them 
reét by the: 

For thefe 
rs, and the 


, that were 
nged to an 
fmall river, 

from Baie 
sted of large 
of a rectan- 


and would ' 


Dors, which 
in grooves, 
itfelf. We 
which the 
making va- 
er ne 4 di 
1, the con- 
> lefs inge- 
él. 
warlike ex- 
heir arms 
the dagger, 
liarly occu- 
the domef- 
ey live un- 
ious difpo- 
treated in 
commonly 
occafions, 
ence. 
polygamy, 
n is agree- 
ofleffion of 
, often en- 
ours, which 
they 


ON THE AMERICANS. 269 


they fell for a piece of old iron, or a few glafs 
beads. 

Though the natives of this part of America form 
large tribes, and have even a community of inte- 
refts, and of manners, yet each family feems to live 
in a manner unconnected with the reft, and to pof- 
fefs a peculiar government of its own. Thefe fami- 
lies have their Chiefs, their huts, their canoes, their 
implements for the chace and for fifhing, and, in- 
deed, all the various means of defence or fubfiftence. 
I thought I difcovered fome Chiefs who appeared to 
command feveral families, but for whom the indivi- 
duals of cach feemed to entertain but little de- 
ference. 

Thefe Chicfs excel the other inhabitants in fta- 
ture, in ftrength, and even in courage. They are 
generally covered with cnormous fcars, which they 
affect to confider as teftimonials of their valour ; and 
are diftinguifhed by a kind of luxury and decoration 
difplayed in their head-drefs and habiliments. The 
drefs of the women confifts of a leathern fhift, de- 
fcending to the middle of the leg, and a mantle of 
fkins, which covers them from the fhoulders to the 
knee. The men wear a fimilar mantle, and have a 
fhirt of leather, and bufkins of feal’s fkin, but their 
feet are commonly naked. 

It is difficult, if not impoffible for a traveller, 
who does not underftand the language of thefe 
Americans, and who but imperfectly knows their 
cuftoms, to give exact notions of their domeftic 
economy, or a methodical and fatisfactory defcrip- 
tion of the difeafes with which they are afflicted ; 
but it cannot be doubted their manner of living, 
their immoderate indulgence in pleafure, together 
with the viciffitudes of their climate, muft fubject 
them to many infirmities. I fhall therefore enter 
into fome details concerning. the difeafes of the abo- 
rigines 


270 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 

rigines of California, the great number of Americans 
aflembled together in the miffion of San Carlos, 
having furnithed me with an opportunity of fecing 
many of the fick, and making obfervations on the 
nature of their difeafes. In this labour I was affitted 
by Father Matthias, the miffionary, and M. Carba- 
jola, furgeon of that colony. 

Great changes of temperature are experienced at 
California in all feafons of the year; the influence 
of which on the inhabitants oecations diforders pecu- 
liar to the country ; and notwithftanding they feem 
habituated to the various inclemencies of the wea- 
ther, they are more fubject than Europeans to difeafcs 
arifing from a continued exccfs of heat. 

Sore throats, catarrhs, pleurifies, and peripneumio- 
nies, are the ordinary difeafes of the winter feafon. 
The remedies employed in the treatment of thefe 
difeafes, confift of decoétions made of plants, which 
they afterwards pound, and apply to the epiglottis, 
or other parts affected. When thefe difeafes have 
attained a certain degree of violence, they common: 
ly degenerate, through this improper treatment, into 
chronical diforders; and they who have furvived 
their effe&ts under the development of their firft 
character, do not fail to end their days fhortly in 
pthifis, or pulmonic confumption. 

Ephemeral and intermittent fevers, and dyfpepfia, 
are chiefly remarkable in fpring and autumn. 

J am uncertain whether thefe nations are ac: 
quainted with any remedy in the treatment of fe- 
vers as a fuccedaneum for ‘bark. Their practice ap- 
pears entirely confined to exciting a vomit, by forcing 
the finger down the throat, and procuring copious 
fweats by a kind of flove baths, which J fhall de- 
fcribe ‘hereafter. 

The difeafes moft general in fummer are fevers of 
various kinds, putrid, petechial, inflammatory, ‘and 
bilious, together with the dyfentery. The want of 

care 


F Americans 
San Carlos, 
y of fecing 
ons on the 
was affificd 
M. Carba- 


Jerienced at 
1e influence 
orders pecu- 
y they feem 
of the wea- 
ns to difeafcs 


peripneumo- 
inter feafon. 
ant of thefe 
jlants, which 
e epiglottis, 
lifeafes have 
éy common- 
atment, into 
ave furvived 
of their firft 
¢ fhortly in 


d dyfpepfia, 
mn. 

ons are ac: 
ment of fe- 
practice ap- 
it, by forcing 
fing copious 


h I fhall de- 


are fevers of 
matory, and 


The want oi 
care 


ON THE AMERICANS. 271 


care or knowledge in the treatment of thefe difeafes 
almoft conftantly produces diftreffing fymptoms, to 
which the patient generally falls a victim, unlefs the 
efforts of nature are fufficient to produce a falutary 
evacuation, either by fiool, urine, or perfpiration. 
It may be obferved, that thefe critical evacuations are 
almoft always favourable to the patient when they 
occur from the eleventh to the twenty-firft days : 
but the difeafes moft formidable are the inflammato- 
ry and bilious fevers, the progrefs of which is fo vio- 
lent, that the patient has rarely firength to refift 
them. 

Befides thefe various difeafes, the inhabitants of 
California are liable to nervous fever, rheumatifm, 
prurient eruptions, opthalmia, fyphilis, and epi- 
lepfy. Atthe miffion of San Carlos I faw a woman 
afflicted with the latter, the periodical attacks of 
which ufually lafted two hours. 

Though the greater part of thefe Americans are 
affected with opthalmia and the itch, they are not 
addicted to the ufe of fpirituous liquors, and eat 
neither frefh nor falt pork, generally faid to be the 
caufe of thefe difeafes, and of tetters and other cuta- 
neous eruptions with which they are fo generally af- 
flited. Nor dol think they can be attributed with 
greater probability to the cuftom of tattooing'and 
painting the fkin. 

Though theïnhebitants of Baie des Français have 
the fame cuftoms, and live in extreme naftinefs, ex- 
amples of the itch, or the leaft trace of it, are very 
rare. I fhould add, that in our fleets ftationed in 
America, during the laft war, I obferved that after a 
fay of five or fix months, tetters appeared on the 
greater number of the feamen, and not unfrequently 
on the officers, which refifted almoft all the remedies 
applied at thofe places, whereas in moft cafes by only 
palling into a temperate climate, they difappeared 
ipontaneoufl y. el 
‘From 


272 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 


From all thefe circumftances, it appears certain 
that the cutancous difeafes, which fo generally affed 
the nations in the neighbourhood of the equator, are 
the effect of an acrimony of the humours produced by 
the great. heats of thefe climates, I have no doubt, 
however, that the conftant action of the fun and wind 
on the fkin of the natives, who go conftantly naked, 
muft contribute greatly to generate difeafes of that 
nature, and render them far more obftinate. It is 4 
well known faét that they were formerly very common 
in Europe, and did not abate their malignity or fre- 
quency, till a tafte for cleanlinefs, and the ufe of linen 
had taken place ofthe dirty unpolifhed habits of life 
which prevailed immediately after the fall of the Ro. 
man empire. ) 

Epidemic difeafes, fuch as the fmall pox and 
mceafles, reign in America when carried there by Eu- 
ropean (hips, but the natives are very fufceptible of 
the infection, and the ravages of the fmall pox, in par- 
ticular, are fo deftructive, that to them no calamity 
can be more dreadful. This difeafe manifefts itfelf 
by the fame fymptoms, and purfues the fame progrefs 
in all its ftages as among Europeans. It is diftin- 
guifhable alfo in the fame manner into the diftinét 
or mild, and the confluent or malignant fort, but it 
more generally affumes the latter character. 

Syphilis, which, according to common tradition, 
was unknown in Europe till the return of the flect of 
Columbus, appears from the opinion of many well- 
informed perfons whom I confulted at Monterey, 
never to have been introduced among the natives of 
California till after their communication with the Eu- 
ropeans who fettled on that part of the new conti- 
nent. Whatever may have been the origin of that 
difeafe among the natives, it is certain that it has oc- 
cafioned among them the fame ravages it has caufed 
in Europe. Buboes, chancres, warts, gonorrhoea, &c. 
are its ordinary fymptoms. x 

The 


ears certairt 
erally affeét 
cquator, are 
produced by 
e no doubt, 
in and wind 
intly naked, 
afes of that 
ite. Itis a 
ery common 
ynity or fre- 
> ufe of linen 
abits of life 
1 of the Ro- 


Il pox and 
here by Eu- 
ufceptible of 
| pox, in par- 
no calamity 
inifefts itfelf 
ame progrefs 
It is diftin- 
the diftinét 
fort, but it 
er. 
on tradition, 
of the flect of 
many well- 
Monterey, 
e natives of 
with the Eu- 
new conti- 
igin of that 
at it has oc- 
t has caufed 
morrhoea, &c. 


The 


ON THE AMERICANS. 273 


The means of cure in which the native Americans 
place the greateft confidenwe, are the fand bath, which 
they call sama/cal, and a decoction of fudorific plants 
taken alternately. They aflured me this mode of 
treatment almoft produced the fame effects, 

The tamafcal is prepared by digging a trench in 
the fand about a foot deep by two broad, and of a 
length proportioned to the ftature of the patient. 
They then make a fire throughout its whole extent, 
and alfo on the fand which has been difplaced. When 
thefc are heated, they extinguith the fire, lightly re- 
moving the fand on the top that the heat may be im- 
parted equally ; after which the patient undreffes, 
lays himfelf in the trench, and is covered up to the 
chin with the heated fand. In this fituation he un- 
dergoes a moft profufe fweat, which decreafes regu- 
larly with the gradual cooling of the fand. The pa- 
tient then rifes and wafhes himfelf in the fea, or in a 
neighbouring river, and the procefs is repeated after 
the fame manner till a cure is effected. The plant 
which they commonly ufe in the treatment of the 
venereal difcafe, is called by the Spaniards governante. 
The following are the characters of this A cp as far 
as I have been able to defcribe them from dried fpe- 
cimens, 

Calix—Four ovate leaves of equal fize with the co- 
rolla inferted under the fruit, deciduous, 

Corolla—Polypetalous, four petals, fmall, entire, 
oval, inferted into the receptacle. 

Stamina—Kight, inferted into the receptacle, of 
the fame height with the corolla; carnous filaments, 
canuliculated on one fide, and convex on the other ; 
ale villous, antheræ fimple. 

Pifil—Germen oblong, villous, pentagonal, di- 
vided into five compartments, inclofing an oblong 
feed ; the down of the pericarpium is very apparent, 
though very fine. 

Stem.—I judged it to be a fhrub of a moderate 

Von. II. ii" height ; 


974 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 


height ; the ftock is angular, bufhy, knotted, and co. 
vered with a clammy varnifh. ‘Fhe infertions of the 
lateral branches are alternate, and very near to each 
other. The leaves fmall, petiolated, bilobate, oppo. 
fite, the upper end fmooth, and the under fide ner- 
vous, though not very apparently : flowers: axillary, 
fometimes terminal, pedunculated, fingle, and fome- 
times double.. 

Independent of the maladies which the women 
fhare in common with the men, they are fubjec to 
feveral peculiar to their fex, particularly thofe which 
attend on child-birth, hemorrhages from the uterus, 
er lofs of blood, abortions, &c. It is remarkable, 
however, that they fuffer very little inconvenience 
during the time of geftation, and are almoft inva- 
riably delivered with eafe. Difficult or unnatural 
Jabours are very rare, but when they take place, both 
the mother and the infant almoft always become their 
victims. This can be occafioned only by a want of 
correfpondence in the dimenfions of the pelvis in the 
mother with the fize of the infant, which muft paf; 
through it, or from the improper pofition of the lat- 
ter when it prefents itfelf before the paflage. 

In natural labours, the firft pains ordinarily take 
place but a fhort time previous to the expulfion of the 
mfant. -Thefe women, doubtlefs, are indebted for 
this advantage to the extreme width of the pelvis, as 
will appear from the table of proportions. | 

As foon as the infant is born, the old women who 
perfornr the office of mid-wives, tie the umbilical 
eord, plunge the child into cold water, and cleanfe 
it from the vifcid humour with which its body is co- 
vered. . The moment the mother is delivered, fhe 
goes to bathe in the fea, or a neighbouring river. 
On coming out of the river, fhe is feated on a hot 
fione, and covered with furs. In this fituation fhe 
remains only till the fweats fhe experiences fubfide, 
and the flone cools, to plunge herfelf again into cold 
> ; 4 water, 


~ 


otted, and co. 
fertions of the 
y near to each 
ilobate, Oppo- 
nder fide ner- 
wers axillary, 
le, and fomc- 


h the women 
are fubjcét to 
y thofe which 
m the uterus, 
is, remarkable, 
inconvenience 
_almoft inva- 
or unnatural 
ke place, both 
; become their 
by a want of 
e pelvis in the 
ich muft pats 
on of the lat- 
lage. 
rdinarily take 
«pulfion of the 
indebted for 
the pelvis, as 
1S. 

d women who 
the umbilical 
r, and cleanfe 
its body is co- 
delivered, the 
bouring river. 
ated on a hot 
‘fituation fhe 
ences fubfide, 
gain into cold 
water, 


ON THE AMERICANS. | 275 


water, and fometimes repeats this procefs for feveral 
fucceeding days. 

Thefe immerfions in water, and this kind of ftove, 
in general ufe among the Americans in almoft all 
difeafes, are often attended with inconvenience; and 
chiefly to women recently delivered. In ‘that cafe 
they often occafion fuppreffion of the lochia, inflam- 
mation of the genitals and of the urinary pafiage, 
accompanied with fuppreffion of urine, or fchir- 
rous breafts, which fometimes become cancerous. 
About fix months ago a cafe of this kind happened 
at the miffion of Moncerey to a woman of about 25 
ycars of age, who died of an ulcerated cancer, which 
had corroded one of the breafts and four ribs adja- 
cent to the tumor. 

Should any accident occur after this treatment, 
the midwives confine their care to fomenting the 
parts affected with a decoction of plants or feeds of 
an emollient nature. The feed which they com- 
monly ufe in thefe cafes, and in acute fevers, cither 
as a draught, or a fomentation, refembles linfeed. It 
has the fame fhape, colour, and glofs, yields in boil- 
ing a fimilar mucilage, and is called by the Ameri- 
cans paffelle. 

The time of geftation is not always fo fortunate 
as to reach the ordinary term of nine months, and 
abortions are by no means rare. In that cafe the 
women obferve the fame condué as if they had been 
delivered at the appointed time, unlefs an hoemor- 
rhage occurs, in which cafe they are kept in bed, and 
the hypogaftrium and pudendum fomented cold. I 
was not able to obtain an explanation of the method 
ufed by the midwives to extract the placenta. 

Neither are infants at the breaft exempt from all 
the infirmities to which that early fiage of life is na- 
turally liable, excepting rachitis, or rickets, of which 
[did not fee a fingle inftance. Like Europeans, 
however, they are fubjeét to the pains of dentition, 


T 2 chaps, 


276 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 


chaps, convulfions, hooping cough, worms, cholic, 
diarrhoea, marafmus, frahifions; &c. 

The time of fuckling is utile, Sometimes it 
is very fhort, but mothers commonly retain their 
children at the breaft for eightcen or twenty months, 
Their manner of fwaddling their children confifts in 
wrapping them in furs, having previoufly ftretched 
out their arms and legs at full length, and fixed 
them in that fituation by feveral bandages of leather, 
They then place the infant in a picee of bark pro- 
portioned to his fize, and of the form of a hollow tile, 
to which he is faftencd by ftraps or bandages of lea- 
ther. As to the brown fpots fore: navigators pre- 
tend to have obferved on the backs of children, I 
confefs that in this and many other particulars where 
I endeavoured to verify their obfervations, my en- 
quiries were fruitlefs. I remarked nothing in their 
organization incompatible with the moft perfect na- 
tural conformation. 

Although the difeafes with which the natives of 
California are afflicted are no lefs numerous than 
various, their treatment of each different malady is 
almoft invariably the fame. I have already faid this 
treatment confifts in the ufe of a few plants, in cold 
bathing, and in a kind of ftove bath. The applica- 
tion of thefe remedies, however irrationally employ- 
ed, is directed by a fort of phyficians, or rather jug- 
glers, who obtain the confidence of their country- 
men only by feigned infpirations and extravagant 
geftures. 

From their general practice of exciting fweats, it 
may be thought that, like Van Helmont ,thefe jugglers 
imagine that fecretion to be a favourite depuration 
of nature, and that any method of promoting it is 
fufficient to cure all difeafes. But were it poffible 
to fuppofe, like him, that this doctrine with its prac- 
tice is derived from a fuperior being, as their gym- 
naftics feem to indicate, it is probable thefe jugglers 

were 


rms, cholic, 


Sometimes it 
retain their 
enty months, 
en confifts in 
afly ftretched 
h, and fixed 
es of leather. 
of bark pro- 
‘a hollow tile, 
idages of lea- 
ivigators pre- 
f children, I 
iculars where 
ions, my en- 
thing in their 


ft perfect na+ 


he natives of 
merous than 
nt malady is 
eady faid this 
lants, in cold 
The applica- 
ally employ- 
pr rather jug- 
heir country- 

extravagant 


ing fweats, it 
thefe jugglers 
e depuration 
omoting it is 
re it poffible 
with its prac- 
as their gym- 
thefe jugglers 


were 


ON THE AMERICANS 277 


were the firft favoured with the revelation, while 
that phyfician was but their humble imitator. As to 
the regimen, it is always fubordinate to the tafle and 
appetite of the patient. 

The external or chirurgical difeafes to which thefe 
nations are fubject, confift of fractures, wounds, ul- 
cers, foft tumours, hernia, and luxations. 

Their treatment of wounds and ulcers differs not 
from their ordinary treatment. In fimple cafes they 
abandon their cure to nature. In thofe which are 
ferious, they apply to the wound or ulcer a few 
plants, either entire or pounded. Should the icho- 
rous difcharge produced by the ulcers caufe much 
pain, and inflame the parts, they bathe them with a 
lotion made with plants, or emollient feeds, and if 
a wound is attended with hemorrhage, they flaunch 
it with the hair of animals, and make a gradual 
compreffion, making ufe of pieces of leather, fup- 
ported by ftraps, and thus produce the effect of our 
bandages. 

If this application be not fufficient to ftop the ef 
fufion of blood, the patient generally dies of the ex- 
hauftion which it occafions; but when the hoemor- 
rhage is ftopped, they wait till the hair inferted in 
the wound is thrown off by fuppuration, and then 
proceed to complete the cure, as in fimple diforders. 
The cicatrices they produce after a wound or other 
injury of the fofter parts, are almoft always defec- 
tive. 

If the natives of California poifon their arrows like 
fome tribes of America, the fubftance they employ 
produces lefs fpeedy and lefs dangerous effects ; for 
the Spaniards, who have refided among them many 
years, have never yet found the wounds of thefe ar- 
rows mortal. 

They take no care of fimple tumours, but to fuch 
as have an inflammatory appearance they make ufe 

SW) 


of 


278 PHYSIOLOGICAL MEMOIR 


of emollients applied either topically, or by way of 
fomentation. 

Tumours formed by a difplacing of the parts, fuch 
as hernia, are very common with thefe nations, par. 
ticularly among infants. 

They appeared to me ignorant of the method of 
returning the parts by the taxis, and of keeping 
them in their place when reduced by bandages. | 
reduced feveral tumours on children in prefence of 
their parents, with the intention of making them 
fully acquainted with the operation, and enabling 
them.in future to cure thefe difeafes, or prevent the 
confequences attending them: but their want of in- 
telligence leads me to doubt the fuccefs of my ex- 
ertions. In the art of reducing laxations, their 
knowledge is equally confined. ‘They make feveral 
extenfions of the diflocated limb, but fo ul! directed 
as fcarcely ever to effect a reduction. In the itreat- 
ment of fractures, however, their conduct appears 
fomewhat more fkilful. They bring the ends of the 
bones into contact, and keep them fixed by a ban- 
dage, placing the limb in a cafe of the bark ofa 
tree, which is made to enclofe it by ftraps of Icather, 
and the patient lies at reft till the perfect union of 
the parts. 

The proportions of thefe nations will be more ea- 
fily compared by means of the following table, com- 
prifing the refult of thefe refearches, and indicating 
the places and latitudes where I meafured them: it 
will there be fcen that there is a great difference in 
the conformation of thefe various nations, which the 
climate, their fports, their manner of living, and even 
their prejudices either produce or modify in a very 
remarkable manner. | 


Si ale 


R 
or by way of 


the parts, fuch 
> nations, par- 


the method of 
nd of kecping 
bandages. I 
in prefence of 
making them 
and enabling 
or prevent the 
leir want of in- 
efs of my ex- 
axations, their 
y make feveral 
fo u! directed 

In the itreat- 
nduét appears 
the ends of the 
ixed by a ban- 
the bark ofa 
raps of leather, 


Il be more ea- 
ng table, com- 
and indicating 
ured them: it 
it difference in 
bns, which the 
ving, and even 
odify in a very 


Scale 


rfeét union of 


ON THE AMERICANS. 279 


Scale of Proportions of both Sexes, among the Natives 
of the Continent of America, together with the La- 
titude of the Places where the Meafures were taken. 


Names of the Places + - = LaConception Monterey B.desFrangais 
Latitudes - + + + = 36° 41'S. 36°41'N. 58°38'N 
Proportion of the Men. Common ft. in.lin ft. in.lin ft. in. Jin 


ftature US NTSC TT 6 
Largeft diameter of the head: 0 8 4090 049 5 
Shorteft ditto 0 5 © 0 6 405 6 
Length of the upper extremities 2 1 6 2 1 9 2 2 3 

of the lower ditto 28060 2.9 0 210 § 
~———- of the feet ° 9 4 010 0 O10 6 
Breadth of the cheft OO 8 A: 9: ities. 
- of the fhoulders 44 8:17 Qt Bg 
Length of the fpine 110 0 111 0 20 4 
Circumference of the pelvis 2° EVE DNS ATE 's 
Preprrtion of the Women. 
Longeft diameter of the head 0 8 o 0 8 § o $10 
Shorteft ditto O 411 0 $ 3°92 6 § 
Length of the upper extremities 2 0 7 2 1 0 2 1 6 
—— -- lower ditto 262 260 2 6 8 
of the feet 0 8 0 0 8 6 0 8 9 
Breadth of the breaft Q 19 . 6. 0 10.09. 011.2 
- of the fhoulders t 2-59 Vo VE 4e 
Length-of the fpine F8 o 1 #8 61 8 5 
Circumference of the pelvis 250 260 26 9 
Diftance from one anterior and 
fuperior {pine of the ilium to 
the other 6° 3e 06 85" 0 8 ro 


The above proportions were meafured in the fol- 


lowing manner. Froin tke head of the humerus to 


the extremity of the middle finger, for the upper ex- 
tremities; from the head of the os femoris to the 
heel, and thence to the end of the great toe for the 
lower extremities; the breadth of the cheft from one 
fuperior articulation of the humerus to the other. 
The height of the vertebral column, or length of the 
{pine, was taken from the firft cervical vertebra to the 
08 fucrum ; the longeft diameter of the head from 
the fuperior angle of the occiput to the fymphyfis of 
the chins and the fhorteft diameter from one paric- 
tal prominence to the other, 

T 4 MEMOIR 


MEMOIR ON 


MEMOIR ON CERTAIN INSECTS, 
By M. La Martinière. 


THE infect, of which the form may be feen 
through ‘its nidus, (fig. 1,) is found in a finall prif. 
matic triangular cell, pointed at the two extremities, 
of the confiftence and colour of a light and very 
fragile ice. The Ree of the infect is green, inter- 
mingled with fmall bluifh fpots, and a few of a gold 

colour, and .is united by a ligament to the lower 
part of its nidus. Its neck fupports a fimall blackith 
head, compoted of three converging lamina, in form 
of a hat, and enclofed between three fins, two of 
which are large, and notched at the upper part, A; 
‘and one fmall, in fhape of a femi-circle, B. When 
‘Irritated, it inftantly withdraws all its fins and its 
head into its nidus, falling to the bottom by its own 
gravity. Figure 2, reprefents the pr‘fm, feen from 
below, and fhewing in what manner it is notched to 
afford a paflage for the infect to retire within it. 
Figure 3, is a reprefentation of it in profile. The 
motion performed by the two large fins, which are 
of a cartilaginous fubftance, rather foft, may be 
compared to that made by the two hands, when 
joined horizontally, and then turned downwards, 
‘thus forming alternately two inclined planes, and 
one parallel with the horizon By means of this 
motion, it fupports itfelf on the water, where it pro- 
cures nourifhment, probably from the fat and oily 
bodies that fwim on the furface of the fea. I caught 
it near Nootka, on the north-weft coaft of America, 
‘in calm weather. 

The following infe&, (fig. 4 and 5;) is fhaped 
very nearly like the glafs of a watch, indented in one 
point of its circumference. Its body is of a cartilagi- 
nous fubftance, of a dullith white, and its upper part 
(fig. 4,) covered with finall oval {pots of the colour 


of 


= Hs 
ner TU" 


Up HA) 


Stl 


INSECTS. 


TS, 

CL WW A en me 
nay be feen | 
1 a finall prif- 


o extremities, 
ght and very 
green, inter- 
few of a gold 
to the lower 
fimall blackifh 
nine, in form 
‘fins, two of 
pper part, A; 
>, B. When 
fins and its 
m by its own 
m, feen from 
is notched to 
re within it, 
profile. The 
s, which are 
oft, may be 
ands, when 
downwards, 
planes, and 
eans of this 
where it pro- 
fat and oily 
ea. I caught 
t of America, 


Qs 
not GT ul 


ne 


DUR TARN 


i) is fhaped 
ented in onc 
bf a cartilagi- 
ts upper part 
of the pice 

0 


Uy ys,’ rm g 


a, 
gory 
S\N 


CL) 
LPS 


> 


Lub. lune 20.4798, by L Stockdale . 


Janjfom 0772 n 


/ 


CERTAIN INSECTS. 281 


of wine lees. Figure 5, reprefents it as fcen from 
below, where may be perceived three elevations in 
form of cups, two near the probofcis of the infcét, 
and a third, much larger, towards the indented part 
of its body. This laft is divided by feven little 
whitifh ribs, the center projeding a little. It is by 
means of thefe cups that it fixes itfelf very ftrongly 
on the back of various fifth, or marine animals, which 
it probably effects by producing a vacuum, and not 
by means of any glutinous and cohefive humour, 
as might be fuppofed. Perhaps it is in the fame way 
that the lepas or barnacle, and patella or limpet, 
adherc fo tenacioufly to the rocks. Its probofcis, fitu- 
ated between its two fmall fuperior cups, is fet with 
points at the upper extremity, which are probably 
mouths, by which this animal fucks the blood of the 
fifh on which it faftens. Below may be fcen, through 
its fubftance, feveral convolutions of inteftines, end- 
ing in a fmall receptacle of nearly a fquare form. 
Though this animal is without legs, it has a pro- 
greflive motion, by means of its three protuberant 
cups, which it fixes alternately. It is alfo enabled 
to defcend to the bottom of the water, chough its 
form appears to prevent it, and the following is the 
inethod it takes. It rolls itfelf up as it were en pa- 
pillote, retains that fiate by fixing its two fuperior 
cups to the pofterior and upper part of its body, and 
thus prefenting a fmaller furface to the water, de- 
fcends by its own gravity. I found it adhering to a 
fifh of the genus diodon, or fun-fifh, of Linnæus, 
which we met with very frequently from Nootka to 
Monterey, in California. 

The fpecics of pennatulu*, (fig. 6,) appeared to 
pofiefs characters which have not yet been noticed, 
and therefore I have given a figure of it. The 
body is of a cartilaginous fubftance and cylindric 


* Tt ig rather a Lernæa. 
form ; 


282 MEMOIR ON 
form ; its head, which is armed with two fmall horns 
of the fame fubftance, is of a fpherical figure, flat. 
tened at the anterior extremity. This part is covered 
with papilla, part of which may be feen. They are 
fo many mouths, by which the animal drinks the 
blood of fifh, burying itfelf as far as poffible in their 
flefh. The extremity of its body, which always re. 
mains out of the fifh, appears like the feathers of a 
quill. Thefe feathers are of the fame fubftance 
with the body, and ferve, I am well convinced, as 
excretory ducts ; on lightly prefling the animal, the 
greater part of thefe cartilaginous feathers ejected a 
very limpid liquor in fimall threads, At the bafe of 
thefe feathers, and under the body, are placed two 
large cartilaginous filaments, of which I could not 
poffibly difcover the ufe. They are not always fur- 
nifhed with thefe, for I have feen fome of thefe ani- 
mals without them. 

The circulation of the blood is eafily perceivable, 
and a minute is fufficicnt for a complete revolution, 
I have endeavoured to reprefent its undulations, by 
a few ftrokes of the pencil, which may be fecn in the 
length of the animated cylinder. Probably this ani- 
mal can introduce itfelf into the bodies of fith only 
when it is very young; when once inclofed, having 
abundance of food, its head encreafes confiderably, 
and the two horns with which it is furnifhed, necet- 
farily form an obfiacle to its efeape. An admirable 
provifion of nature, fince fhe has defigned it to ob- 
tain nourifhment at the expence of another. I found 
it buried more than an inch and half deep in the 
body of a diodon, taken in the vicinity of Nootka. 

Figure 7, reprefents an infect of a {pecics very 
nearly refembling the oni/cus ; letter C is the upper 
view of it, and ‘I that of the under fide. 

Its body is crufiaceous, and of a dirty white co- 
Jour, having round reddifh fpots on the anterior part 
of its corflet, two others much larger in form ofa 

creicent, 


vo fmall horns 
| figure, flat. 
art 18 covered 
n, They are 
al drinks the 
ffible in their 
ch always re- 
feathers of a 
me fubftance 
Sonvinced, as 
> animal, the 
hers ejected a 
t the bafe of 
> placed two 
1 I could not 
ot always fur- 
of thefe ani- 


- perceivable, 
e revolution. 
lulations, by 
e fecn in the 
ably this ani- 
; of fith only 
ofed, having 
confidcrably, 
ifhed, necet- 
An admirable 
ned it to ob- 
ner. I found 
deep in the 
f Nootka. 

fpecics very 
is the upper 


y white co- 
anterior part 
n form ofa 

creicent, 


CERTAIN INSECTS. 283 
crefcent, on its elytra, or upper wings, and its /cz. 
tellum is of the faune colour. The under part of the 
breaft is furnifhed with four pair of legs. The firtt 
and third pair terminate in a very fharp fang; the 
fecond, from their form, are apparently employed in 
fwimming ; and the fourth, which are very fmall, 
confift of two membranous threads. Some laminz 
alfo, of a membranous nature, and much indented, 
may alfo ferve the purpofe of legs; the two inferior 
are the largeft. Its belly is filled with a bundle of 
inteftines, of a vermicular form, the fize of a hair; 
and the mouth, placed between the firft and fecond 
pair of legs, 1eprefents a fmall trumpet, fituated be- 
tween the two lips, joined at the upper part only, 
I found this infect adhering to the gills of a diodon, 
which was alfo fuffering from the two infects men- 
tioned TS 

Figure 8, reprefents an infect of the genus oni/cus, 
according to Linnæus, and its body has very nearly 
the form, confiftence, and colour of a woodloufe, 
except that it is not like the latter divided by feg- 
ments. It is provided with a double tail, three times 
the length of its body, from the infertion of w hich 
arife two legs, which the animal employs principally 
for fwimming, when lying on its back. The infect 
feen from below, letter H, prefents fix pair of legs, 
the two firft of which terminate in very fharp and 
{trong points, the third ferves it for fwimming and 
balancing its body in concert with thofe inferted into 
the root of the tail, and the fourth pair, which are 
the largeft, is furnifhed with two very fharp points, 
which it fixes with all its force into the body of 
whatever animal it faftens on. The two laft are a 
{pecies of membrane, in various divifions. Between 
the two firft pair of legs is its probofcis, being of a 
foft confiftence, and half a line in length. At the 
bafe of the third pair are two points, of the fubftance 
of horn, very hard, and adhering fi: rmaly 5 the two 
lower horns, below the large pair of legs, are alfa 
very 


284 MEMOIR ON 


very ftrongly fixed to its body. I imagine it is by 
the aid of thefe kind of darts that it pierces the bodies 
of the fifth upon which it is found, and then chang- 
ing its place, introduccs its probofcis into the hole 
they have made. Placed in a veflel, it defcends to 
the bottom, and returns to the furface with the 
greateft facility, which it performs by prefenting the 
edge of its body, and defcribing feveral curves. Its 
two large tails are detached from it very cafily with. 
out the animal appearing to fuffer pain. I found 
this infect in great numbers, adhering to the body 
of the fame diodon *. 

Figure 9, reprefents a fpecies of leech, of the 
natural fize. It is of a whitifh colour, and compofed 
of feveral rings, fimilar to thofe of the tenia. The 
upper part of the head is armed with four papilla, 
fet with points, which are fo many inftruments for 
procuring nourifhment. Under each papilla, on 
either fide, is a fmall pouch, elongated in the form 
of acup. Figure 10, is a front view of it, where its 
four papillae may be diftinguifhed. I found this 
leech buricd in the exterior fubftance of a fhark's 
liver, more than half an inch within it. Whence it 
came, Iam perfectly ignorant -f. 

Figure 11, reprefents the onifcus phyfodes, of Lin- 
næus, which he has very well deferibed, and of which 
¥ have given a drawing, merely becaufe I believe 
none has hitherto exifted. It has nine veficles on 
each fide, placed like tiles, on the inferior furface of 
a round ta, P. 

I found this {pecies of oniffns in the gills of a new 
{pecies of the pleuronectes of Linnzeas ¢, very abun- 

* This infe& appears rather to be a monoculus than an ani/cus, the 
shell being of one piece. 

+ This animal agrees in its inftrumenta cibaria, or feeders, 
with that to which Gog attributes the caufe of fcurf in fwine. Both 
fpecies are nearly allied to the genus dirudo, or leech, of which the 
charaéters given by Linnaeus require correction. 

+ To this genus belong the holibut, plaice, flounder, dab, fole, 
and turbot.—-Tranflater's ucts 

dant 


dan 


gine it is by 
ces the bodies 
| then chang- 
into the hole 
t defcends to 
ace with the 
refenting the 
al curves. Its 
y cafily with. 
ain. I found 
to the body 


leech, of the 
and compofed 
tenia. The 
four papille, 
ftruments for 
1 papilla, on 
l'in the form 
fit, where its 
I found this 

of a thark’s 
. Whence it 


odes, of Lin- 
and of which 
ufe 1 believe 
ne veficles on 
rior furface of 
gills of a new 
, very abun- 
an an oni/cus, the 
aria, or feeders, 
rfinfwine. Both 
ech, of which the 


under, dab, fole, 


dant 


CENTAIN INSECTS. 285 


dant at Monterey, in California. Letter M is its 
upper fide, and letter N the under fide, where the 
14 feet are vifible. 

Of all the infects I have delincated, the following 
(figure 12) is the moft fimple, and that of which the 
fudy has afforded me the greateft pleafure. They 
are mere oval bodies, perfcétly refembling a bubble 
of foap, as may be feen in my drawing, where they 
are arranged in cluficrs of 3, 5, 6 and 9, and fome 
alone and wandering. Thefe collections of globules 
placed in a glafs of fea water, rapidly defcribed a cir- 
cle round the glafs by a common motion, in which 
cach veficle participated with a fimple compreflion 
of the fides of its body; an cffeét probably, of the 
reaction of the air with which they were filled. It is, 
however, inconccivable how thefe animals, which are 
perfectly diftinét from each other, fince they may be 
feparated as I have experienced, without any apparent 
derangement of their cconomy, can communicate 
their intentions fo exactly, and concur together in one 
common motion. From thefe confiderations, added 
to the form of the animal, I recalled to mind with 
pleafure and fatisfaélion the fyflem of M. Buffon, 
and almoft wifhed to perfuade myfelf, I was about to 
witnefs the moft wonderful phenomenon of nature, 
fuppofing that thefe animated particles, then occupied 
in encreafing or diminifhing their numbers, or in 
making farther revolutions in my glafs, would fpeed- 
ily aflume the forin of a new animal, of which they 
were the living materials. My impatience led me to 
feparate two from the moft numerous clufter, imagin- 
ing this number would prove moft favourable to a 
metamorphofis, but I did not fucceed any better by 
this means, The following is the manner in which 
thefe two molecules proceeded, when feparated for 
my fecond experiment. I only fpeak of thefe two, 
becaufe I obferved them with more attention than 
the others. Imagine to yourfelf two wreftlers, equal- 

ly 


< 


286 MEMOIR ON 


ly ftrong and fkilful, each equally ambitious of con. 
queft ; for fuch were the two molecules which I had 
juft feparated from the reft. Their firft mecting is 
eviddntly a combat, in which the conteft is which 
fhall be moft fuccefsful in feizing its companion, and 
flying to fulfil the duty of its nature. They attack 
each other on all fides ; fometimes one plunges be: 
low and the other afcends to the top of the water; 
this deftrives a circle that remains in the centre, 
watching the moft favourable moment. The differ- 
ent artifices of each are forefeen and parried by the 
other. Their courage, however, encreafing, their 
motions become fo rapid, that it is impoffible to avoid 
confounding the one with the other. Though my 
defign was particularly to obferve the conqueror, at 
length fatigued with watching them, I left them both 
in the fury of the combat. On returning to examine 
them again, I found them urited together as ufual, 
and fwimming about in my glafs by a common move- 
ment in the moft amicable manner. The pleafure 
thefe molecules afforded me was fo great, that I fhall 
often recall them with fatisfaction to my recollection. 

Natural -hiftory, often a very dry fiudy, would not 
Ithink have fo many attractions for thofe who de- 
vote themfelves to it, were they not fometimes for- 
tunate in meeting with objects like thefe, to delight 
their imagination. 

The fpecics of Medufa, (if it does not conftitute 
a new genus,) which is reprefented in two different 
attitudes, figures 13 and 14, has nearly the figure of 
a cornemufe or bagpipe, and is nothing elfe than a ve- 
ficle perfectly white and tranfparent, furnifhed with 
feveral blue tantacula, yellowifh at their extremity. 
Its large tail which is alfo blue, appears to be formed 
of an affemblage of {mall glandular kernels, flattened 
and united together throughout their length, by e 
gelatinous membrane. The upper part of this veficle 


has a kind of feam, compofed of large, middling, and 
finall 


and 

and 
not 

ftitc 
whic 
fent: 
T 
of tl 
of tl 
than 
their 
ing | 
attac 
whic 
throt 
to di 


itious of cor. 
; which I had 
‘ft mecting is 
teft is which 
mpanion, and 

They attack 
> plunges be: 
of the water; 
1 the centre, 
- The differ- 
arricd by the 
reafing, their 
ffible to avoid 
Though my 
conqueror, at 
eft them both 
1 to examine 
ther as ufual, 
yMmMOoN move- 
The pleafure 
t, that I fhall 
r recollection. 
y, would not 
hofe who de- 
bmetimes for- 
fe, to delight 


ot confiitute 
two different 
the figure of 

fe than a ve- 
wnifhed with 
ir extremity. 
to be formed 
els, flattened 
length, by @ 
f this veficle 

hiddling, and 
finall 


CERTAIN INSECTS. 187 
fall points, arranged alternately. To the longer part 
of the cornemufe, which may be confidered as its head, 
jsadded an infulated tentaculum, itsexternal is furniih- 
ed with 25 or 26 tahtacula, much fmaller than thofe 
feen at the infertion of its large tail, the number of 
which fometimes amounts to 30. By means of thefe 
lat, of which it is able to encreafe the diameter at 
will, by inflating them with a part of the air con- 
tained in the animal, it faftened itfelf to the fide 
of the veffel, fo that the extremity of fome of 
thefe tentacula, by their diftention, might occu- 
py a furface of two or three lines. The moft flexible 
part of the cornemu/e is its clongated divifion or head, 
and by means of that it performs various motions, 
and affumes different pofitions : but this change can- 
not be produced without obliterating as it were, the 
ftitches of the future on the upper part of the body, 
which fometimes entirely difappear, and it then repre- 
fents only a wrinkled line. 

The round part feen at P, is fituated in the midft 
of the large tentacula, fixed very firmly to the body 
of the cornemufe, near its tail, and is nothing more 
than a collection of fmall gelatinous globules ; from 
their center rife other globules fomewhat larger, hav- 
ing a fmall peduncle, near the middle of which, are 
attached a little bluifh body in fhape of an S, of 
which I have given two reprefentations as viewed 
through a lens. See R, but I am abfolutely unable 
to difcover their ule. 

I found this cornemeufe on the 18th of Novem- 
ber, 1786, in 20° N. lat. and 179° E. long. from 
Paris ; and I met with it again, in very great abun- 
dance, at our landing place on the Baihee or Bachi 
Ilands, where I alfo found the following animal : 

This animal (fig. 15), which is truly of a fingular 
form, nearly refembles a lizard. Its body, which is 
of a glutinous fubftance, but rather firm, prefents 
two brilliant colours; deep blue and the vivid white, 

like 


288 ON THE INHABITANTS OF 


like filver.' Its head is furnifhed with two fmall ge. 
Jatinous horns on each fide ; the two pofterior ones 
fituated more internally than the two anterior, Its 
body is provided with four feet, which fpread like a 
fan, and fome appendages near the infertion of its 
tail. It terminates like that of a lizard. The upper 
part. of its back is divided throughout its whole 
length by a blue ftripe, the reft of the body appear. 
ing of a very fine filver colour, as well as the cen- 
ter of its feet and its internal part. This animal, 
poffeffing little vivacity, remains at reft on the water, 
as it appears in the drawing, but when irritated b 
the touch, it withdraws its head a little into its 
body, which it moves backward, and bending in 
the middle of its reins, turns on its back. - This po- 
fition was its conftant defence, when I attempted to 
irritate it. When defirous of regaining its former 
attitude, it employs nearly the fame means, and 
throwing its head forward, and bending the center 
of its body, returns to its former pofture, which is 
doubtlefs the moft natural to it. Figure 16 is a re- 
prefentation of it reverfed. 

Y caught it during a gentle fea, at the landing 
place on the Bachi Mand. 


ET) © 03 Le © Gg — 


BISSERTATION ON THE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND 
OF TCHOKA AND THE EASTERN TARTARS. 


By M. Rollin, Surgeon-Major of the Bouffole Frigate. 


On the 12th of July, 1787, we anchored in Bar 
de. Langle, fituated in the weftern part of the Ifland 
of Tchoka, or Segalien. 

The next day we landed, and were no fooner on 
fhore than the inhabitants came to meet us, and 
were eager to fhew us marks of kindnefs, from which 
we formed a good opinion of their intentions. 7 

| This 


two fmall ge- 
pofterior ones 
anterior. Its 
fpread like a 
fertion of its 
The upper 
ut its whole 
body appear- 
| as the cen- 
This animal, 
on the water, 
n irritated b 

little into its 
4 bending in 
k. . This po- 
attempted to 
1g its former 
; means, and 
g the center 
ure, which is 
re 16 is a re- 


the landing 


F THE ISLAND 
ARTARS. 


uffole Frigate. 


hored in Baie 
of the Ifland 


no fooncr on 
meet us, and 
fs, from which 


ntions. 
This 


THÉ ISLAND OF TCHOKA, ETC. 289 
‘This nation’ ‘is very intelligent, refpect property, 
entertain tio’ miftruft, and are: very communicative 
with firangers. “They are of a middling ftature, 
fquat, ftrongly built, a ‘little embonpoint, and their 
figure and mufcles Arongly marked. The ftature 
moft common atnong thems five feet, and the talleft 
five feet four inches, though of the latter we faw 
very few inftances. ‘All of them have large heads, 
and their faces aré broad, and rotinder than thofe of 
Europeans: Their countenance is animated and very 
agreeable, though the affemblage of the parts which 
compôfe the face has not, in general, that regularity 
and grace which we admire. “Almoit all have large 
checks, a fhort nofe, rounded ‘at the ‘end, and the 
noftrils very thick, fharp eyes, of a’ middling fize 
and well formed; in fome inftances blue, but ge: 
nerally black ; thick eye-brows, a mouth of a mid- 
ding fize, a ftrong voice, and thick ‘lips, of a dark 
hue. Some individuals were obferved to have the 
upper lip te*:noed in blue, and thefe parts, as well as 
the eyes, «c -:pable of expreffing every Kind of 
fentiment.. !‘::y have fine teeth, «well fet, and 
of the ufual number; a round chin, with very lit- 
tle prominence ; and fmall ears, which they pierce, 
FN in them ornaments of: glafs, or rings of 
filver. , 

~The women ‘are finaller than the men, and have 
a rounder and more delicate figure, though there-is 
little difference in their features. Their upper lip 
is completely tattooed’ in blue, and they wear theit 
hair of its full length: : Their clothing is in no re- 
{pect different from that of the men, and in both 
fexes the colour of the fkin is tawny ; and that of 
their nails, which they fuffer to grow long; of a 
darker fhade than in Europeans. ‘Thefe iflanders are 
very full bearded and hairy... Their beard being very 


long and brifily, gives to the old men a grave ‘and ve- 


nerable appearance, and the young appeared. to look 
~ Von. IT. U up 


290 ON THE INHABITANTS. OF 
up to them with great attention and refpect. Their 
hair is black, fmooth, and moderately ftrong, though 
in fome it is chefnut. They all wear it round, about 
fix inches long behind, and cut in a brush on the 
forehead and temples. ; 

Their drefs confifts of a caflock, or kind of bed- 
gown, which crofles before, where it is faftened with 
{mall buttons, ftrings, and a girdle above the hips, 
This caflock is made of fkin, or a kind of quilted 
nankeen, made with the bark of the willow; it 
generally defcends as far as the calf of the leg, and 
fometimes lower, which makes them, for the moft 
part, difpenfe with the ufe of drawers. Some wear 
bufkins of feal’s fkin, the feet of which nearly re- 
femble :thofe. of the Chinefe, both in fafhion and 
workmanfhip ; but the majority have both the head 
and foot naked ; and only a fmall number had their 
heads bound with a bandean.of bear fkin, which |ferved 
rather for ornament than protection againft the cold 
or the rays of the fun. 

Like the inferior caft of the Chinefe, they all 
wear a gwdle, to which they fufpend their knife, a 
boar’s tufk, and feveral little pouches, in whieh they 
put their flint, ficel, their pipe, and the box con- 
re their tobacco, the ufe of which is very ge. 
ncral. | 

Their huts afford them fhelter from the rain and 
wind, but are not fufficiently large, eonfidering the 
number of inhabitants. The roof forms two inclined 
planes, about ten or twelve feet high :at their point 
of junction, three or four feet on the fides, and four- 
teen or fifteen broad by eighteen long. ‘Thefe ca- 
bins are conftructed of rafters, firmly connected to- 
gether, and flanked with the bark of trees and dried 
plants, difpofed in the fame manner as the ftraw 
thatch of the cottages of our peafants. 

We remarked within thefe houfes a fquare heap 
of earth, elevated about fix inches above the ground, 


and 


nect. Their 
rong, though, 
round, about 
brufh on the 


ind of bed- 
faftened with 
we the hips, 
d of quilted 
; willow; it 
the leg, and 
for the moft 

Some wear 
ch nearly re- 
fafhion and 
th the head 
ber had their 
which \ferved 
inft the cold 


fe, they all 
heir knife, a 
a whieh they 
he box con- 
| is very ge- 


the rain and 
nfidering the 
two inclined 
t their point 
es, and four- 

Thefe ca- 
mnected to- 
2es and dried 
s the firaw 


fquare heap 
the ground, 
and 


THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA, ETC. 201 


and fupported by fmall thick planks on the fides. 
This is their fire-place. At the fides and at the end 
of the’ apartment we {aw treflels, twelve or fifteen 
jnches high, on which their mats are extended to 
fleep jon. 

The utenfils they employ in preparing and eating 
their food, confift of iron cauldrons, porringers, or 
veflels of wood, and.of birch-bark, of different fhapes 
and various workmanfhip, and they eat with fmall 
fticks, like the Chinefe. The hours of repaft, in 
each family, are at noon, and towards the clofe of 
the day. 

In the fouthern part of the ifland their habita- 
tions are conftructed with rather more care, are bet- 
ter decorated, and the greater part floored. We 
faw among them fome veflels of Japan porcelain, 
which, as they appeared to fet great valuc on them, 
I believe they are procured with difficulty, and at 
vonfiderable expence. They employ no cultivation, 
and live on fith fmoked, and dried in the air, and a 
fall quantity of game, produced by the chace. 

Each family has its canoe and its implements for 
fifhing and hunting. Their arms are the bow, the 
javelin, and a fort of {pontoon or half pike, which 
they ufe chiefly in hunting the bear. : By the fide of 
their huts.are {tore-houfes, in which, during the fum- 
mer, they collect and prepare their provifion for the 
winter, This confifts of dried fifh, a confiderable 
quantity of garlick and wild celery, angelica, a bul- 
bous root which they call apé, known under the 
name of the yellow lily of Kamtfchatka, and the oil of 
fifth, which they preferve in the ftomachs of the larger 
animals, Thefe ftore-houfes are built of planks, well 
united, raifed above the ground, and fupported by 
feveral ftakes of about four feet high. 

Dogs are the only domeftic animals we faw among 
the inhabitants of ‘l'choka. They are of middle fize, 
U2 have 


202 “ON THE INHABITANTS OF 
have rather long hair, ftraight cars; long ‘muzzle, a 
ftrong cry, and aré not in the leaft favage. 

Of all the uncivilized nations we have vifited, thefe 
iflanders, if they may be clafled among that number, 
are the only people among whom we obierved any 
‘weavers’ looms. Thefe Iooms were complete, yet 
‘fmall enough to be portable. | 

They ufe a diftaff to fpin the hair of animals, the 
bark of the willow and the great nettle, of which they 
form their fiuffs. ! 

This nation are of a very mild and unfufpicious 
character, and appear to have fome commercial deal: 
ings with the Chinefe through the medium of the 
Mantchou Tartars, with the Ruffians by the nortli 
part of their ifland, and with the Japanefe by thc 
fouth ; but the articles of their traffick are of little im- 
portance, confifling only of a few furs and fome 
whale oil. ‘Their whale fifhery is confined to the 
fouthern part of the ifland, and the manner in which 
‘they extract the oil is far from ceconomical. They 
draw the whale upon the beech, which lies on a de- 
clivity, and leaving it to putrefy, the oil thus feparat- 
ed of itfelf is received in a kind of tub placed at the 
fieepeft part of thé ground, to which it is directed in 
its courfe by little furrows. | 

The ifland of Tchcka, fo denominated by its in- 
‘habitants, but called by the Japanefe Oku-Jeffo, and 
by the Ruffians, who are only acquainted with its 
northern part, the ifland of Segalien, extends in its 
longeft diamcter over all the fpace comprifed between 
the 46th and 50th parallel. | 

It is very woody and very high in the middle, but 
flat towards its extremities, where it appears to of- 
fer a foil favourable to agriculture. Vegetation is 
there extremely vigorous, and its forefls flocked with 
willows, oaks, and birch. ‘The fea that wafhes its 
fhores is extremely well fupplied with fifh, as are its 
rivers and ftreams. 


The 


r muzzle, à 
e. 

ifited, thefe 
at number, 
bierved any 
mplete, yet 


nimals, the 
which they 


nfufpicious 
nercial deal- 
lium of the 
y the north 
nefe by the 
> of little im- 
s and fome 
fined to the 
er in which 
ical, They 
lies on a de- 
thus feparat- 
laced at the 
s direéted in 


1 by its in- 
u-Jeffo, and 
ted with its 
tends in its 
ifed between 


middle, but 
ears to of- 
egetation is 
tocked with 
t wathes its 
1, as are its 


The 


THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA, ETC. 203 


The feafon when: we landed on this ifland was ex- 
tremely foggy, but fufficiently temperate, and all the 
inhabitants appeared to enjoy a: robuft and healthy 
complexion, which they retain to a ver fl advanced 
age; nor did I fee among them any defeétive con- 
formation, or any trace of contagious eruptions, or any 
ether difeafe. 

After having communicated feveral times with the 
inhabitants of the ifland of Tchoka, which is feparat- 
ed from the coaft of Tartary by a ftrait we fuppofed 
to ftretch from the fea of Japan to that of Okotfk, 
we continued to fhape our courfe to the nor thward. 
But the depth of water in the channe’ having gradu- 
ally and uniforinly fhoaled throughout its width to fix 
fathoms water, M. de la Péroufe, judged proper, for 
the fafety of the (bips, to run back to the fouthward, 
confidering that the impoffibility of arriving at Kamt- 
fchatka, by failing out to the northward, as almoft 
demonfirated. But the continuance of the fogs and 
fouth winds, which prevailed ulmoft inceflantly ‘during 
four months we had kept the fea, rendered our fitua- 
tion very critical, and made that attempt as long and 
tedious as it was painful and difficult. 

The wood and water we had taken in at Manilla 
being cenfuimed, our Commodore determined to pro- 
cure a frefh fupply of thefe articles before he attempt- 
ed any thing farther. 

On the 27th of July 1787, the weather clearing 
up, we were enabled to reconnoitre a vaft bay, in 
which we caft anchor. It offered us not only a fafe 
anchorage againft bad weather, but every means of 
pr oviding 1e neceflary articles we wanted for conti- 
dumg our voyage. ‘This bay is fituated on the coaft 
of Tartary, in 519 29% N. lat, and 139° 41” longi- 

tude, and was named Baie de Caffries, or Catirics 
Bay. 

The country is very mountainous, and fo much 
covered with wood, that the whcle coalt appears but 


Us” . as 


294 ON THE INHABITANTS OF 
as one foreft, and the vegetation is very ftrong and 


flourifhing. 3 

The inhabitants, the only people we met with on 
this coaft from Corea, were fettled at the head of this 
bay, towards the mouth of a fmall river well fupplied 
with fifh. 

This people are gentle, affable, ‘and, like thofe of 
the ifland of Tchoka, are not miftruftful of ftrangers. 
They pay the moft fcrupulous refpect to property, 
and fhew little curiofity or defire even for things 
which to them might be of the greateft utility. 

In falutation they bend the body forward, and when 
they defire to fhew extraordinary marks of refpett, 
fall upon their knecs, and incline their head fo as 
nearly to touch the ground with thcir forehead. 

The exterior charaéteriftics of this people are irre- 
gular, and offer but little analogy to thofe of their 
neighbours of Tchoka, who are feparated from them 
by a ftrait at this part only ten or twelve leagues wide. 

Thefe Tartars are of a lower ftature, weaker body, 
and their countenance much lefs agreeable or regu- 
lar; their colour is not fo dark, and their fkin is to- 
Icrably white in thofe parts which are conftantly co- 
vered. Their hair is not fo thick, and they have on- 
ly alittle beard on the chin and upper lip, while the 
inhabitants of Tchoka, as I have faid before, are 
fquare made, their mufcles ftrongly marked, and their 
bodies furnifhed with more hair and beard than Eu- 
ropeans. Thefe differences in the natural conforma- 
tion of thefe nations feem to prove them ‘of a diffe- 
rent race, though they live undcr the fame climate, 
and their cuftoms and mode of living are the fame, 
or very nearly fo. 

The women are ugly, their countenances not hav- 
ing that character of fweetnefs by which they are 
commonly diftinguifhed from men. Their faces. are 
flat, their eyes round and fmall, their cheeks large 
and high, their head large, their throat firm. and to- 

lerably 


firong and 


met with on 
head of this 
ell fupplied 


like thofe of 
of ftrangers, 
to property, 
n for things 
tility. 
rd, and when 
s of refpert, 
head {0 as 
brehead. 
pple are irre- 
hofe of their 
d from them 
leagues wide. 
weaker body, 
ble or regu- 
r fKin is to- 
nftantly co- 
hey have on- 
p, while the 
before, are 
ed, and their 
rd than Eu- 
‘al conforma- 
m ‘of a diffe- 
ame climate, 
ire the fame, 


ices not hav- 
ch they are 
eir faces are 
cheeks large 
firm. and to- 


lerably 


THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA, &c. 205 


derably well turned, and the extremities of the body 
fmall but in: fine proportion. 

The common height of the men is from four feet* 
nine to ten inches. Their head is very large, with 
refpcét to thcir bodies, their face flat and almoft 
fquare, their forchead finall, round, and a little de- 
pteffed from front to back ; their eyebrows indiftinétly 
marked black or chefnut like their hair; their eyes 
fmall, and even with their head; their cye-lids fo ill 
divided that the corners are ftretched when opened ; 
their nofe fhort and hardly perceptible at the root, fo 
little is it defined at that part, and their cheeks are 
coarfe and wide. Their mouth large, and their lips © 
thick, and of a dull red; their teeth fmall and re- 
gular, but very liable to decay; their chin pro- 
jects but little; the branches of their lower jaw are 
rather narrow: their extremitics fmall, and the muf- 
cles but faintly marked. ‘The irregular outline of 
every part of the body excludes all grace of form and 
delicacy of feature, and they are the moft puny, ugly 
race of men I have fcen in either hemifphere. 

Though thefe Tartars, as well as the inhabitants 
of Tchoka, have attained a confiderable degree of 
civilization and politenefs, yet they have no agricul- 
ture, and live in extreme fithinefs. They fupport 
themfelves chiefly during the fuminer ‘on frefh fith, 
and in winter on fith either fmoked or dried in the 
air on horfes nearly refembling thefe of our Jaun- 
dreffes. Of thefe fith they firft cut off the head, 
then gut them, take out the bones, and fufpend them 
on the horfe. When dry they col'ect them in heaps, 
and preferve them in ftorc-houfes, like thofe in the 
ifland of Tchoka. 


* The Paris foot, ufed in all the meafures throughout this work, 
is equal to 1 0664 of the Englifh foot, or contains 12.783 En- 
lifh inches, fomewhat lefs than 12 inches, and eight tenths. ‘The 
ture of the people here defcribed is therefore about five feet, one 
or two inches Englifh meafure. 


UA They 


296 ON THE INHABITANTS-OP 


They catch fith with the hook, or the net, or {pear 
them with a kind of fpontoon or fiick,, fhod with 
iron. | | 

They make regularly two mcals in, common, one 
about the middle of the day, and, the other towards 
funfet: their utcnfils and manner of preparing their 
food are the fame with thofe of the inhabitants. of 
Tchoka, and they procure thefe articles, with feveral 
others, from the Mantchou Tartars, or Japan. 

We were particularly aftonifhed at the avidity 
with which they ate the fkin and cartilaginous. part 
of frefh fith entirely raw, efpecially the muzzle and 
parts adjoining the gills; thefe with train oil. they 
efteem a great delicacy, and prefer to every other fcod, 

Both men and women are drefled in a frock refem- 
bling that of our carters, or a kind of dreffing gown 
defcending to the calf of the leg, and fattened before 
with copper buttons. This garment differs not from 
that of the inhabitants of Tchoka, and is made of 
fifh-fkin, or fometimes of nankeen for fummer, and 
for the winter, of the fkin of land animals. -The 
women ornament the lower part of this kind of robe 
with fmall plates of copper, ranged in fymmetrical 
order. All wear alike a fort of drawers or breeches 
like that of the Chinefe, fimall bufkins fimilar to 
thofe of the inhabitants of Tehoka, a ring of horn or 
metal on the thumb, and trinkets hanging at the ears 
and noftrils, 

I did not obferve among them any chiefs except 
thofe belonging to each family. The only domettic 
animals they bring up are dogs, of the fame fpecies 
as thofe of Tchoka, which they ufe likewife in winter 
for drawing their fledges. 

The cufiom of offcring their wives to firangcrs, 
which exifts among fome inhabitants of the globe, is 
not adopted by this nation, and the men appear to 
hold them in the greateft refpect. The occupation 
of the women is apparently confined ta domeftie con- 

cerns, 


net, or fpcar 
fhod with 


mmon, one 
her towards 
paring their 
habitants of 
with feveral 
apan. 
the avidity 
ginous part 
muzzle and 
ain oil. they 
y other fcod. 
frock refem- 
effing gown 
tened before 
ers not from 
is made of 
ummer, and 
imals. : The 
kind of robe 
fymmetrical 
or breeches 
fimilar to 
be of horn or 
g at the ears 


hiefs except 
nly domettic 
fame {pecies 
fe in winter 


to firangcrs, 
he globe, is 
Pn appear to 

occupation 
bimetiie con- 
cerns, 


THE ISLAND OF TCHOKA, &c, 207 


cerns, and the education of their children, and pre- 
aration of their. food,, conftitute the principal ob- 
jects of their attention, 

The umbilical cord is tied as with us at the mo-, 
ment of the infant’s birth, who undergoes a kind of 
fvaddling, fimilar to that ufed by the Americans, At 
the times of repote the women place them in a baf- 
ket, or cradle, made of wood or the bark of birch, 

The feverity of the climate in which thefe Tartars 
live obliges them to have different houfes for their 
winter and fummer refidence, the form and internal 
diftribution of which are the fame as. thofe I have 
defcribed in my account of Tchoka: their winter, 
houfes have no other peculiarity than that of being 
funk into the earth about four feet, and having a fort 
of porch or corridor adjoming the entrance. Not- 
withftanding their hard and fevere manner of living, 
thefe Tartars appeared to enjoy pretty good health 
in their youth, though as they advance in age they 
become fubject to infitmmations of the tunica con- 
junctiva, which are very common among them, and 
to blindnefs. The frequent occurrence of thefe in- 
firmities is, probably, attributable to general caufes ; 
fuch as, in my opinion, the glare of the fnow, which 
covers the furface of the land for more than half 
the year, and the continual irritation of the organs 
of vifion produced by the finoke, which conftantly 
fills their cabins’ where they are mofily confined in 

winter to avoid the cold, and in fumuer to efcape 
from the mo/gujtoes, which in thefe latitudes are ex- 
tremely numerous, 

Cutaneous diforders are very rare among thefe 
people, notwithftanding they live in the extreme of 
uncleanlinefs, I faw only two or three flight cafes 
of herpetic er uptions À and one infant about fix years 
of age, who had a feald head, but I did not remutk 
any cefeét of conformation, or any trace cither of the 
finall-pox or fyphilis. | 
The 


208 TABLE OF PROPORTIONS, &c. 


The occupations of both fexes, their implements 
of fifhing and hunting, and their canoes, have no 
remarkable difference from thofe of the inhabitants 
of Tchoka; but their natural conftitution mutt ren. 
der them incapable of fupporting equal fatigue with 
the latter, who are much more robutt. 

The pcople appear to have the greateft veneration 
for the dead, and employ all their ingenuity to do 
honour to their fepulture. They are interred in their 
ufual habiliments, and with the arms and implements 
they ufed in their life time. The body is depofited 
in a coffin, made of planks, in the fame form as 
ours, the extremities of which are ornamented with 
picces of filk, either plain or embroidered in gold or 
filver. This coffin is afterwards enclofed in a tomb, 
conftructed of planks or boards, elevated about four 
feet from the ground. ) 


Comparative Table of the Proportions of the Inhabi- 
tants of the Lland of Tchoka, and the Tartars of 
Caftries Bay, taken in the fume manner as the com- 
parative Proportions of the Americans, before fpe- 
cificd, 

Ifland of | Tartars of 
Tchoka. |Caftries Bay. 


Fr 
Le À 
bom 
3 
(su 


coe: 


Ft. In. 
Common ftature of the men - 
Circumference of the head - 
Its longeft diameter - - 
Shorteft ditto + ‘ . 
Length of the upper extremitics —- 
the lower ditto - ° 
the feet “ . ë 
Circumference of ditto d 


—_ 
& © 


Itswidth - - - 

That of the fhoulders  - 

Circumference of the pelvis + 

Height ofthe vertebral column - 

The only meafure 1 could obtain o 
the women, is the circumference 
of the pelvis - - =. -{0 


RKeDde—=cOnnooeu 
— Où Omid © 00 æ Gr 
COCeB CRO ODO 0 œ À © = 
=pe SOoonnocens 
O Go & = © © © = Ur to 
cooeccooced @& 


ss 
ES 


to 
— 
[=] 


Of M. 
neers, 


pedi i 


THE 
hemifph 
Brafil, c 
the laft 
to facili 
Dutch } 
turn of | 
was defi 
fight of 
tuguefe 
bay, in 

M. d 
dered m 
regardi 
comma 
land, u 
approac] 
land, h 
ment at 
one-thir 
which fe 
ifland. 
ward, b 
whole i 
ward, b 
about 3 
hill, the 


lements 
have no 
abitants 
uft ren. 
ue with 


neration 
ty to do 
in their 
ements 
epofited 
form as 
ted with 
| gold or 
a tomb, 
out four 


> Inhabi- 
artars of 
the com- 


fore fpe- 


artars of 
ftries Bay. 
t. In. Li, 
Q 
0 


> 
co 


© 


nt nt 
ower OL OO = Ue 
coceccoocc¢c 


= 


299 


OBSERVATIONS 


Of M. de Monneron, Captain of the Corps of Engi. 
po Jent in nality Pi Chief Engineer, in the Exe 
pedition of M. de la Péroufe. 


ISLAND OF TRINIDAD. 
At Sea, the 17th of October, 1785. 


THE Mand of Trinidad, fituated in the fouthert 
hemifphere, about 180 leagues from the coat of 
Brafil, continued uninhabited till the Englith, daring 
the laft war, occupied it, with an intention, no doubt, 
to facilitate the capture of French, Spanifh, and 
Dutch prizes; but we were affured that, at the re- 
turn of peace, they abandoned it. M. de la Péroufe 
was defirous of afcertaining the fact. When we gor 
fight of this ifland, we prefently perceived the For. 
tuguefe flag on a little hill, at the head of a firall 
bay, in the fouth-eaft part of the ifland. 

M. de la Péroufe having hoifted out a boat, or- 
dered me to ga with it, and obferve fome particulars 
regarding this poft; but the officer who had the 
command of this expedition, was ordered not to 
land, unlefs it could be performed without rifk, We 
approached near the fhore, and though unable to 
land, had an opportunity of examining’ this fettle- 
ment at a very finall diftance. It is fituated about 
one-third up a little hill, facing a flat beach of fand, 
which forms a creek in the fouth-caftern part of the 
land. ‘This little bight is terminated to the weft- 
ward, by two hills of bare rocks, which, lite the 
whole ifland, are of a volcanic origin ; and vo the eaft~ 
ward, by a fugar-loaf hill, with a broud bafe, and: 
about 300 feet high, adjoining to a kind of table 
hill, the bafe of which is larger, while the height 
appears 


A ae 
ral ae » 
LATIN 
mu 474, ha 
ty, dv 
N° ru 
( à an o " 
L ) 
WC 
ft 


300 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 


appears lefs by one-third than that of the fugar-loaf. 
The fand beach feems to be. from 45 to 60 fathoms 
deep, and the land then rifes into a very regular and 
fteep, though natural, glacis. Above this glacis is 
a kind of ‘platform, which, in fortification, I fhould 
<°" terre-plein, very much inclined on the fide to- 
wards the fea, on account of which it is impoffible 
to fhelter it from the fire of fhips at the anchorage, 
I could not perceive any parapet, though :t is to be 
prefumed there was one, à barbette; and though I 
made every endeavour to difcover the traces of can- 
non or batteries, I faw nothing which had any refcm- 
blance to them. On the platform are five or fix huts, 
refembling thofe of the negroes in, the fugar iflands, 
and one larger than the reft, towards the falient 
angle of the terre-plein. This fortification, if it ma 
be called one, refembles a redent, one fide of, which 
is parallel to the beach, and the other to a ravine, 
near which the glacis in this part terminates. 

_ Such an eftablifhment refembles rather a den of 
banditti, than a poft occupicd by a civilized nation, 
Excepting the natural obfiacles, which render a 
landing on this ifland difficult and dangerous, there 
is no trace to be perceived of any works capable of 
refifting even a firft attack ; and I may confidently 
venture to aflèrt, they have not a fingle veñel of 
force. This leads me to think, that cither the Por 
tuguefe have not been long fettled here, or that they 
pay little attention to their-fettlement *. 

M. de Vaujuas, who landed on this ifland, informed 
M. de la Péroufe that he eftimated the inhabitants at 
200 perfons. For my own part, FE examined ther 
numbers very carefully, and feveral times counted 


* As the ftrength of a poft is eftimated not only from its fitu- 
ation, but alfo by thé number of its defenders, I aiked the Gover- 
nor of St. Catharine how many troops the Queen of Portugal 
maintained at Trinidad ? He faid he believed that poft might be 
occupied by a detachment of 35 or 40 men. 


thofe 


1e fugar-loaf. 
o 60 fathoms 
y regular and 
this glacis is 
ion, I fhould 
1 the fide to- 
is impoflible 
1e anchorage. 
rh it is to be 
and though I 
traces of can- 
ad any refem- 
‘ec or fix huts, 
fugar iflands, 
s the falient 
ion, if it may 
fide of which 
r tO a ravine, 
nates. 
ther a den of 
rilized nation. 
ich render a 
gerous, there 
tks capable of 
confidently 
igle veflel of 
ther the Por 
, or that they 


nd, informed 
inhabitants at 
famined their 
mes counted 


nly from its fitu- 
iked the Gover- 
seen. of Portugal 
at poft might be 


ISLAND OF ST. CATHARINE. 801 


thofe who prefented themfelves to our’ view, but 
could never find more than 33 men difperfed along 
the ftrand, or on the declivity of the hill, and about 
36 who were looking at us from the platform, fo 
that we may imagine, our appearance could not have 
excited the curiofity of all the individuals who are 
thus exiled upon this barren rock. ‘They reported 
to M. Vaujuas, that provifions were fent them every 
fix months from Rio Janeiro, and the garrifon relieved 
every year. | 

As I believe the bottom of this bay is of rock, it 
would. perhaps be difficult to moor fhips here in or- 
der to force this port into an immediate furrender ; 
but if the difpofition of its defence is not altered, 
rather than come to moorings in the bay of the fet- 
tlement, I fhould advife anchoring in the fouth-weft 
part of the ifland, where the anchorage mutt be 
fafer, which probably would make it cafy to turn 
the port, which is on the bay to the fouth-eaft, by 
gaining’ pofleflion of the top of the mountain, at the 
foot of which is the platform, inclined towards the 
fea, already defcribed. 


(Signed) 
On board the Bouffole, 25th October, 172.. 


MONNERON. 


ISLAND OF ST. CATHARINE, 


At the Anchorage, from the Oth to the 19th of Novem 
ber, 1785. 


THE ifland of St. Catharine, fituatci on the 
coaft of Brazil, in 27° 21’ S. lat. is a Portuguete 
eftablifhment which, for 70 years, has been very rare- 
ly vifited by any European fhips except thofe belong- 
ing to that nation. ‘here are, thercfore, few docu- 
ments 


302 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 


ments concerning it to be expected from the accounts 
of travellers. Amd if the compiler of Anfon’s Voyage 
jound a great difference both in the natural and po. 
litical fituation of that colony, compared -with its for. 
mer ftate in the time of Frezior, we may make a fimi- 
lar remark with regard to it at prefent, as compared 
with its fituation in the time of Anfan; fince it has 
been confiderably increafed, if I am well informed, by 
the introduction of a great number of families from 
the Azorcs, at the expence of the Portuguefe govern: 
ment, during the years 1752, 1753 and 1754. The 
population being thus fuddenly augmented, mui 
ise given a new face to the eftablifhment ; and as 
thefe new colonifts were diligent, laborious and fkill- 
ed in agriculture, the progrefs of the population muf 
be encreafed, in proportion to thefe particular qualities 
of the inhabitants, and the fertility of the foil. The 
government here, as in all the Portuguefe colonies, 
is purely military. | 

We are ignorant what force the government keeps 
in this colony during war; but judging from the ac- 
counts when the place was taken by the Spaniards, it 
will appear to be confiderable. Yet thefe troops 
made fo miferable a defence, that it would have been 
more to the honour of the Portuguefe nation, had 
they been much lefs numerous. 

Should an enterprize be formed againft this part of 
Brazil, there is no doubt, that in the archives of Spain, 
the particulars may be found of the number of the 
forts, the abfclute ftrength of each, and the mutual 
fuccours they afford. 

Befides that, the Portuguefe are not confidcred to 
be very fkilful in the art of conneéting pofitions to one 
another. Iam well convinced from all I have fcen, 
that the firength of connection between the different 
pofts is almoft nothing. It is therefore to be fup- 
poted, that the colony is fo much the weaker as its 
forts are more numerous: I remarked only ii 

which 


the actounts 
Anfon's Voyage 
tural and po: 
dwith its for- 
y make a fimi- 
as compared 
; fince it has 
lanformed, by 
families from 
guefe govern- 
mented, mutt 
ment; and as 
ious and fkill- 
ypulation mutt 
icular qualities 
the foil. The 


ruefe colonies, 


ernment keeps 
ry from the ac- 
e Spaniards, it 
thefe troops 
buld have been 
nation, had 


nft this part of 
hives of Spain, 
number of the 
nd the mutuil 


confidered to 
bofitions to one 
HI have feen, 
n the different 
fore to be fup- 
weaker as its 
d only three 
"which 


ISLAND OF ST. CATHARINE. 303 
which could deferve that appellation ; and thefe, al- 
though within fight of each other, feem formed one 
to be carried with the firft attack, and the others to 
remain idle fpectators of the difafter, and immediately 
furrender. The rules of fortification therefore de- 
mand, that thefe forts fhould be reduced to one, and 
the expence of keeping the other two, which. fhould 
be abandoned and even demolifhed, fhould be em- 
ployed to augment the third, while the three garri- 
fons fhould be formed into one, If inftead of three 
forts there were a dozen, it may be eafily judged, what 
ineffectual refiftance this colony muft make, unlefs 
fo improper a fyfiem of defence fhould be entirely 
abandoned *. 

The road, which is open only to the north-eaft 
winds, is fheltered to the eaft by the iffand of St. Ca. 
tharine, and on the weft by the continent ; on the 
fouth by the land both of the ifland and the eonti- 
nent, which approach fo near, that they leave between 
them only a firait of lefs than three hundred toifes 
wide. Its entrance cannot in any manner be fhut 
againft fhips of war of any rate or confiruction what- 
ever. 

The landing is in general eafy throughout the cir- 
eu nference of the road. The greateft difficulty to 
be apprehended is from a ftrong current, but the 
fole inconvenience even that could occafion, would 
be a delay in the difembarkation, and not unfre- 
quently it might even advance it. 

This road ts fo extenfive, that although the forts 
are mounted with guns of a great caliber, thips may 


* To have an exact knowledge of thefe three forts, independent 
of th ir names, it may be remarked that they form nearly an equi- 
lateral triangle, the bafe of which is to the northward, and the top 
towards the fouth, That of the caft ftands on the north-eaft point 
of St. Catharine, about a quarter of a league from the Perroquet 
Ifand ; that to the weft, which is the moft confiderable, is on an 
lot near the continent of America, and ‘the third is upon the 
largeft of the two little iffands, called /os Ratones. 


anchor 


304 ' OBSERVATIONS ON THE: 


anchor there'very commodioufly atid fecurely, out of 
the reach of thefe guns. | 

‘The principal fort, which however is; in fact, only a 
large enclofed battery, is fituated inva little ifland; of 
a-moderate clevation, above the level ‘of the fea, fi. 
tuatcd at about 350 toifes from the terra firma, “and 
oppofite a rideau, much higher than itfelf. At about 
one third of the height of this rideaw an enemy 
would ‘command the fort, fo as to obferve every thing 
that paffés there, and fee from head to foot thofe who 
ferve the guns. From this place, I am perfuaded, 
the fort might be annoyed with a fire of mutquetry ; 
but a fingle mortar, or two howitzers, which might 
eafily be fixed upon this hill, would be fufficient to 
force it to furrender. Indced this fort is by no means 
eapable of making a regular defence: there are no 
bomb-proof lodgments, for want of which, its fi- 
tuation on an ifland is fo difadvantagcous, that al. 
though the befieged were three to one againtt their 
invaders, it would not be difficult to reduce it to fur- 
render at difcretion ; and to complete the m'fery of 
their fituation, they are placed under a height, which, 
though it commands them, they cannot poflibly oc- 
cupy. 

Yet this fort is the poft of honour, where the ge- 
neral officer, who commands the whole fettlement, 
would fix his quarters ; for in time of peace he refides 
at Noffs Senhora del Defero, a town which is abfo- 
lutely open, and only defended by a {mall battery, à 
barbette, on the ifland of St. Catharine, and on the 
eafternmoft point of the little ftrait above mentioned, 
behind which the town is built. The garrifon of the 
principal fort was then compofed of fifty mén, badly 
clothed and ill paid, under the command of a captain. 

The Portuguefe officer, who commanded when the 
Spaniards took St. Catharine’ s, fome years ago, Was 
not made prifoner in the fort ; but, as his ‘defence 
was any thing but honourable, he was acca 28 

ore 


= 


\h 

i 

i 

} 

| i 
ps 

’ lit 
| 

| 

pu 

i 


rely, out of 


à fact, only a 
le -ifland, of 
the’ fea, fi- 
à firma, and 
lf. At about 
L an enemy 
s every thing 
ot thote who 
n perfuaded, 
“mutquetry ; 
which might 
fufficient to 
by no means 
there are no 
which, its fi- 
us, that al- 
againit their 
uce it to fur- 
the m'fery of 
eight, which, 
t poflibly oc- 


where the ge- 
e fettlement, 
ace he refides 
hich is abfo- 
all battery, à 
, and on the 
re mentioned, 
rarrifon of the 
y men, badly 

1 of a captain. 

ded when the 

ears ago, Was 
s his defence 
ummoncd be- 
fore 


ISLAND OF CATHARINE. 305 


fore a court martial. Had he been fhut up in his 
fort, however, I do not imagine the affairs of the Por- 
tuguefe would have taken a better turn ; for this fort 
not being very capacious, he could only have been ac- 
companied bya very fmall part of his forces, and would 
probably have been compelled to capitulate the firft 
or fecond day of the attack, and to include, in the 
articles of capitulation, all the troops under his com- 
mand, who would doubtlefs have readily acceded ta 
the furrender. 

The Portuguefe, however, had no other alterna- 
tive, than either to defend their forts, which, we 
have feen, was impoffible, or to take the field. 

Iam not fufficiently acquainted either with the 
country, or the refpective forces of the two powers, 
to judge. whether the latter would have been a much 
more advantageous ftep ; but I am inclined to think, 
that confidering the contempt entertained by the Spa- 
niards for the Portuguefe, the colonifts would have be- 
held their plantations ruined by their enemies, and 
their provifions confumed and diffipated by their 
countrymen, Scarcely any lands But thofe near the 
fea fhore are cultivated, and thefe could afford but 
a poor rcfource for the fubfiftence of two contending 
armies, particularly when we confider how eager fol- 
diers commonly are for pillage. 

France ought, on no account, to make war on 
this part of the Portuguefe fettlements, unlefs with 
the intention of forming an eftablifhment there for 
herfelf, and with the ‘hope of retaining, under a 
treaty of peace, the territory fhe may conquer. Nor 
could that acquifition fail to excite the jealoufy of 
the-Spaniards, who would ever choofe their old ene- 
mies, the Portuguefe, for neighbours, in preference 
to their beft friends and moft faithful allies, 

Confequently all hoftilities, on the part of France, 
would be confined to a coup de main, which ought 
to be undertaken by cruifers, who might direét 

Vou. II, x their 


306 : OBSERVATIONS ON 


théir attack againft the fettlements of the whale 
fifhery, particularly thould they be informed that the 
Portuguefe are not more on their guard than in time 
of peace. I would not, however, engage that the 
prizes would defray the expence of the cxpedition, 
unlefs the eftablifhment fhould be ranfomed, or the 
governinent fhould grant an indemnification for the 
deftruction of the {hips and warehoufes which be- 
long to the revenue, fince the. prefent government 
farms out the cxclufive privilege of the whale fifhery, 
. This eftablifhment is at the head of a creek called 
Bom-Porto, which conftitutes part of the great road- 
ftead, and fhips may anchor there fheltered from 
every wind, 


(Signed) MONNERON. 


On board of the Bouffole, 5 5th December, 1785. 


—— =a 01: © Gare ——— 


CHILT. 


At the Anchorage of Talcaguana, in the Road of Li 
Conception, from the \Ath of February to the 1714 
"of March, 1786. 


ALTHOUGH the family compact between the 
crowns of France and Spain feems to renderall military 
reflections ufelefs, which our ftay at Chili enabled us 
to make‘on the political {tate of this part of the Spanifh 
dominions, yet as this domain may poflibly fall into 
decay or total ruin, a time may arrive when the fol- 
lowing remarks, now regarded as of no utility, may 
acquire, confiderable importance : 

I propel in this place not fo much to confider 
the virtues and defects of the Spanifh government 
in thefe colonies, as to fhew the ftrength or tweak- 
nefs they produce. The kingdom of Chili, in South 

America, 


f the whale 
ned that the 
than in time 
ige that the 
- expedition, 
med, or the 
ation for the 
*s which be- 
government 
vhale fifhery, 
creek called 
e great road- 
eltered from 


NERON. 


e Road of La 
1 to the 17th 


between the 
erall military 
ili enabled us 
of the Spanifh 
Mbly fall into 

hen the fol- 
> utility, may 


to confider 

government 

th or tveak- 
hili, in South 
America, 


CHILI. 307 
Ametica, is bounded on the weft by the South Sea ; 
on the eaft by Bucnos Ayres and Paraguay ; and ex- 
tends north and fouth from the frontiers of Peru, 
from which it is, however, feparated by great deferts, 
as far as Patagonia. This vaft country is crofled 
and interfected in feveral parts, by chains of moun- 
tains as high as in any other region of the world. 

St. Jago, or Santiago, the capital of Chili, and the 
refidence of the governor and captain-general, is 
fituated inland, about thirty leagues from the :coaft, 
and the neareft port to it is Valparayfo. This go- 
vernment-gencral is divided into particular diftriéts; 
and the city of Mocha, fituated only three fhort 
leagues from Talcaguana, is the refidence of the 
military commandant of the difiriét of La Concep- 
tion, deftroyed by an earthquake in 1751. On our 
arrival here, Brigadier Don Ambrofio Higgins, ma- 
efro del campo of this department, was concluding a 
treaty of peace with the Indians, neighbours of thofe 
called Friendly Indians, but who, notwithftanding 
that title, had been engaged in a war by the braveft 
and mo't warlike of the Indians of the Cordilleras. 
The military operations of an able commandant con- 
fift in placing himfelf between his allies and his ene- 
mies, in order to prevent the increafe of difaffec- 
tion, and to have fewer combatants to engage ; but, 
in fpite of the politick meafures of Spain in this 
refpect, the numerous Indians of the Cofdilleras, 
who yet remain unfubdued, the continual revolt of 
the Indians, her allies, and the frequent infurrec- 
tions of thofe whom fhe calls her fubjeéts, are 


caufes too powerful and too continually in ation 


not to afford a prefumption that her power in Chili 
will be unavoidably deftroyed; and, perhaps, the 
period of its overthrow is not fo diftant as fhe ima- 
gines. 

Confequently every expedition iffuing from Eu- 
rope againft the province of Chili, unlefs its object 


fhould 


on a LN LL et 


ae 


308 OBSERVATIONS ON 


fhould be fuch as I fhall prefently defcribe, will not 
only fail to defray the expences, but doubtlefs occa- 
fion a very confiderable lofs. 

It muft never be forgotten, that the general fpirit 
which apparently reigns throughout the Spanith fet- 
tlements, is not relaxcd at Chili; and that the colo- 
nifts are therefore mere farmers, or little retail deal- 
ers; fo that although it is true that Chili produces 
a very large quantity of gold, an invader would find 
very “little of it, though he would meet with an 
abundant  fupply of every article of fubfiftence, 
whether grain, wine, butchers’ meat, or other pro- 
vifions. Thefe refources, it muft be confefled, are 
but momentary, and ceafe to exift immediately on 
putting again to fea. The means of defence for 
preventing the landing of an enemy in this country, 
are extremcly weak, not to fay abfolutely ineffec- 
tual. Even in the road of La Conception, which 
is confidered one of the beft in Chili, a ‘landing 
might be effected in any part of it, and could re- 
ceive no oppofition, except from two or threc bat- 
teries, of which the moft confiderable is placed on 
the beach. The others might eafily be filenced by 
a few troops, landed out of the range of their 
fhot. I fhould in juftice, however, obferve, that 
thefe batteries are placed here not to prevent a land- 
ing, but merely to protect the merchantmen tra- 
ding from Chili to Peru, againft the attacks of pi- 
rates, who might otherwifc very eafily take them in 
the anchorage of Talcaguana at a cable’s length 
from the fhore. A landing in the bay of La Con- 
ception, therefore, offers no fort of rifk, no fear of 
lofing either fhips or men; and I am firmly of opi- 
nion, that, afterwards, a certain number of regular 
troops, marching in military order, might arrive, 
without difficulty, at Mocha, which, as is already 
mentioned, is only three fhort leagues from Talca- 
guana, over a vaft fandy plain, reaching aU 

73 mile 


e, will not 
itlefs occa- 


neral fpirit 
panifh fct- 
t the colo- 
retail deal- 
li produces 
would find 
et with an 
fubfiftence, 
other pro- 
nfeffed, are 
ediately on 
defence for 
is country, 
sly ineffec- 
tion, which 
a ‘landing 
| could re- 
threc bat- 
placed on 
filenced by 
rc of their 
bferve, that 
ent a land- 
tmen tra- 
cks of pi- 
ke them in 
ble’s length 
of La Con- 
no fear of 
mly of opi- 
of regular 
‘ght arrive, 
s is already 
rom Talca- 
g within à 
mile 


CHILI. 309 


mile of that town, fituated on a fecond plain, lower 
than the former, and a quarter of a league from the 
river Biobio. 

The richeft inhabitants of this city have no move- 
able property ; and, on the firft view of the fettle- 
ment, it is evident, that to levy any contributions 
on them would be inhuman, All the advantage to 
be gained by a defcent here, would be confined folely 
tomaking an incurfion of three leagues up the land ; 
and I fhould even think it imprudent not to haften 
back to fea again immediately, for, in a very few 
days, the maeftro del campo, would be at the head of 
15,000 men; and in whatever manner the war is 
conduéted, there would be no hope, if he had the 
leatt principle of honour, of forcing him to capitu- 
late. Should an enemy keep the ficld, he will be 
eafily furrounded, or harrafied by a cavalry more nu- 
merous than all his forces ; and fhould he occupy the 
heights, the Spaniards being better acquainted with 
the defiles, he will not even, by that means, be able 
to carry on the war with greater advantage; and 
the wifeft meafure he can adopt, not to fay the only 
one he can take, is to retreat. 

A more certain means of haftening the ruin of 
the power of Spain in Chili, would be to form al- 
liances with the Indians of Arauco and Taucapel, 
who would fpecdily be joined by thofe of the Cor 
dilleras, and thofe whom the Spaniards call their 
friends and allies, would not fail foon to enter into 
the confederacy. Affifted by the knowledge and the 
arms of Europeans, this league would be fo formid- 
able to the Spaniards, that, to avoid witneffing the 
ruin of their fettlements, and the devaftation of their 
poffeffions, and perhaps to fecure their own per- 
fonal fafety, they would be obliged to abandon all, 
and take refuge in Peru. 

It will readily be perceived, that this plan is capa- 
ble of great extenfion, and would require much 

X 3 further 


$10 OBSERVATIONS ON 

further inveftigation ; but the time when it may 
become of utility to France, is fo far diftant, that it 
is fufficient only to have fuggefted it. 


_ (Signed)  MONNERON,. 
On board the Bouffole, 30th March, 1786. 


eee 094-6 ee 


EASTER ISLAND. 


At the Anchorage called Cook's Bay, South Latitude 
27° 11/; Longitude, Weft from Paris, 11)° 55’ 30". 


THIS ifland, from its fituation out of every fre- 
quented track of navigation, from its total defici- 
ency of wood and water, and from the ftate and 
condition of its inhabitants, who have the greateft 
inclination in the world to receive, without the pof- 
fibility of returning any thing, may offer a vaft field 
of fpeculation to the naturalift and philofopher ; but 
can, in na refpect, be interefting to any of the va- 
rious maritime powers of Europe. | 


(Signed) MONNERON. 
On board the Bouffole, r2th April, 1786. 


SANDWICH ISLANDS. 


At the Anchorage, 29th May, 1786, in 20° 34’ North 
Latitude, 158° 25’ Weft Longitude from Paris. 


WERE I obliged to write a memoir on the ad- 
vantages of the fituation of thefe iflands, under any 
or every point of vicw, I muft derive all my informa- 
tion from the accounts contained in Cook’s third 

voyage ; 


BAY DES FRANGAIS. 311 
voyage ; and were the ‘utility of'fuch a difcuffion 
demonftrated, it is evident it may be purfued with 
greater advantage and fagacity at Paris, than at fea. 


(Signed) MONNERON, 
On board the Bouffole, sth June, 1786. “9 


ep Go} ls D eae 


BAY DES FRANÇAIS. 


Situated on the N. W. Coaft of America, in .58° 38 
North Latitude. At Anchor in different Parts of the 
Bay, from 2d July to Vt of Auguft, 1786. 


THE impoffibility, in my opinion, of advanta- 
geoufly eftablfhing a French factory in this bay, 
renders every difcuffion of that kind embarraffing to 
the writer, fince a memoir, refting on vague fuppo- 


th Latitude 
9 55 30". 


F every fre- 
otal defici- 
: ftate and 
the greateft 


ut the pof- fitions, can deferve no greater confidéhce than if it 
a vaft field were founded on uncertain facts. It is therefore 
pher; but with great fatisfaétion, that I find, by a paper which 
of the va- M. de la Péroufe hdd the goodnefs to communi- 
cate to me, that he difluades government from en- 
: aging in fuch a {ettlement, at leaft before his return 
as de Pince. At that period, I fhall produce all the 
notes neceffary to the difcuffion of this affair in full 
detail; and fhould government form any decifion 
on that object, it will be eafy then to demonftratt 
its advantage or inconveniences. | 
It will readily be prefumed that the feverity of the 
Ral ache climate, the fmall refources of this country, its enor- 
34° North mous diftance from the mother country, and laftly, 
n Paris. the competition of the Spaniards and Ruflians, who 
are very conveniently fituated for trading with it, 
on the ad- will prevent other European powers from makin 
under any any fettlement between Monterey and Prince Wil- 
y_informa- liam’s Sound. 
ok’s third X 4 It 


voyage ; 


812 OBSERVATIONS ON 
It will alfo be previoufly neceffary, and efpecially 
re attempting an eftablifhment, to weigh the 
expence and the profits, in order to, determine the 
number of perfons to be employed in fuch a factory, 
This knowledge is indifpenfably neceffary, in order 
to provide for the fafety of the adventurers, and of 
the funds with which they would be entrufted, either 
againft the natives of the country, or the enemics 
of the commerce of France. 


(Signed) MONNERON, 
On béard the Bouffole, 19th Dec. 1786. 


eee © Xe 6 nm — 


HARBOUR OF MONTEREY, 


Situated on the N. W. Coaft of America, in 36° 38’ 
North Latitude. At the Anchorage, from \5th to 


24th of September, 1786. 


A CENTURY will probably elapfe, and perhaps 
double that period, before the Spanith fettlements, to 
the northward of the peninfula of California, will 
attract the attention of the great maritime powers. 
Even that in whofe poffeffion they now are, will 
not: for a long time, perhaps, think of eftablifhing 
colonies there, capable of making any confiderable 
progrefs. Her zeal, however, for the propagation 
of the Catholick faith, has already difperfed over it 
feveral miffionary eftablifhments ; but it is not to be 
fuppofed that even privatecrs will difturb the body 
_ of monks, by whom thefe are directed, in their pious 

exercifes, | 

With the intention, no doubt, of favouring the 
prefidio of Monterey, the galleon has, for many 
years, been obliged to touch at this port, on its 
return from Manilla to Acapulco, But it is , far 

rom 


ind efpecially 
fe) weigh the 
letermine the 
ich a factory, 
ary, in order 
urers, and of 
rufted, either 
the enemics 


)JNNERON, 


a, in 309 38/ 
from 15th to 


and perhaps 
ttlements, to 
lifornia, will 
time powers. 
ow are, will 
 eftablithing 
_confiderable 

propagation 
erfed over it 
t is not to be 
rb the body 
n their pious 


avouring the 
s, for many 
port, on its 
it is fo far 

from 


MANILLA. 313 


from neceffary either to put in, ot to make the land, 
that even in time of peace, thefe fhips often prefer 
continuing their courfe, and paying a certain fum by 
way of recompence for the advantage ps might have 
afforded the place in landing at it; and, in time of 
war, they are ftill more defirous of avoiding it, if the 
Spaniards imagine their enemics are cruizing off 
there. 

The land about Monterey, though dry, feems 
adapted for advantageous cultivation. It is proved 
that European grains grow there both fine and abun- 
dant, and the butchers’ meat is of the beft quality. 
It is therefore certain, confidering the commodiouf- 
nefs of the harbour, that if this fettlement fhould 
ever flourifh, a better port for one or more veffels 
could not be found in any part of the world. But 
previous to any political fpeculations on that head, 
we muft wait till the Europeans eftablifhed on the 
north-eaft coaft of this continent fhall extend their 
fettlements to that on the north-weft, which will not 
fpcedily be accomplifhed. 

(Signed) MONNERON. 


On board the Bouffole, 24th December, 1786. 


OBSERVATIONS ON 
MANILLA AND FORMOSA. 
By M, de la Pérouje. 


MANILLA. 


IN that part of my narrative which relates to Ma- 
nilla, I have endeavoured to detail all my ideas with 
regard to the new company lately eftablifhed in Spain ; 
referving for a particular memoir my opinions on the 
extreme facility with which other nations might 
poflefs themfelves of this colony. ‘The dominions of 

| Spain 


$14 OBSERVATIONS ON 


Spain in the: Philippines are confined folely: to ‘the 
ifland of Luconia, which, in tact, is very confiderable, 
and ‘contains 900, 000 inhabitants, capable of carry. 
ing on every manufacture, and performing: ever 

fpecies of cultivation. : This people deteft the Spa. 
niards, by whom they are at once horribly opprcièd 
and defpifed'; and Fam convinced that a nation who 
fhould fupply them with arms, would, without much 

exertion, excite an infurreétion | in the ifland. 


The only ‘bond which yet attaches them ‘to their: 


conquerors, is that of religion. : ‘he majority of the 
inhabitants sof <Luconia are very fincere Chriftians, 
even to enthufiafm. Whatever’ power, therefore, 
would obtain this ifland, mutt leave them their 
churches, their priefts, their oratories, and, in gcne- 
ral, treat every objeét of their worthip with retpect. 
This would be the more cafy, as almoft all the parues 
ure, at prefent, ferved by Indian prictis, who fecretly 
entertain for the Spaniards the fame hatred that lurks 
i. the bofom of all their countrymen. 

The Bay of Manilla is open to fhips of every fize, 
and can be defended only by men of war. Any ex- 
pedition, therefore, againti this colony, pr efuppofes a 
decided fapcriority of naval foree. 

The fortifications of the place, though regular and 
perfectly well kept up, could only retard for a few 
days the furrender of a city, which cannot expect 
fuccours cither from Europe or any other quarter. 

The garrifon is compofed only of one regiment of 
mulattocs. The corps of artillery confifting of 200 
mc, as well as the’ 150 dragoons, arc alfo Ameri- 
cans ; and though the Spaniards are perfuaded thete 
troops will bear a comparifon with thofe of Europe, I 
um io well convinced of the contrary, that I fhould 
not fear with 1,500 men to attack 4,000 of the for- 
mer, aud that with certainty offuccefs. 

The militia of the ifland may form a ire: of 8,000 


men, and keep the ficld as in the war of 1760, after 
ae | the 


t 


wou 
carg 
whit 
maf 
ino 
be | 
as t 
foot 
lon, 


folely to ‘the 
confiderable, 
ible of carry. 
rming: ever 
teft the Spa- 
bly oppresied 


nation who ‘ 


jithout much 
and." : 


em to their: 


njority of the 
e Chriftians, 
r, therefore, 
them their 
ind, in gcne- 
Hees retpect, 
1 the pari: ics 
who fecretly 
ed that lurks 


of every fize, 
uw. Any ex- 
prefuppotes a 


1 regular and 
d for a few 
nnot expcct 
r quarter. 
regiment of 
ifting of 200 
alfo Aimceri- 
‘fuaded thefe 
of Europe, | 
vat I fhould 
) of the for- 


ody of 8,000 
"1760, after 
the 


MANILLA. ' 315 


the Englifh had poffeffed themfelves of the city of 
Manilla. But circumftances are now very diffcrent, 
and it would not be difficult to oppofe one part of 
the country to the other, fhould any part of it declare 
for the. Spaniards; or were it not infinitely more 


_ probable that the militia would refufe to march, par- 


ticularly if means were found of gaining over fome of 
the Indian priefts, and perfuading them that the in- 
vaders are as good Catholics as the Spaniards. 

Indeed, the conqueft of Manilla appears to me fo 
eafy and fo certain, with a fuperiority of naval force 
and 5,000 troops, that I fhould prefer this expedi- 
tion to one againft Formofa, and I think I might 
anfwer for its fuccefs. 

But we ought rather to view the Spaniards as our 
good and faithful allies than as enemies, and it muft 
be underftood that this colony could be of no utility 
in carrying on a war in India. Situated in the feas of 
China, which can only be navigated with the monfoons, 
itis impoffible for the commander of a French fqua- 
dron ever to entertain an idea of taking refuge there. 
To touch at the Ifle of France, though, on account of 
its great diftance, it is generally deemed fo difadvan- 
tageous for any operations in India, would yet be in- 
finitely preferable. 

The want of commerce at Manilla almoft entirely 
prevents any fupplies of provifion from being procur- 
ed there, becaufe the inhabitants cultivate no more 
than is neceflary for their own confumption. It 
would not, however, be impoffible to procure fome 
cargoes of rice, a little cordage made in the country, 
which is very inferior to that of Europe, and a few 
mafis ; but thefe articles muft certainly be fent for 
in our own veflëis, nor is it to be fuppofed they could 
be procured from Manilla on a fimple demand ; and 
as the feas of China are navigable only with the mon- 

foons, the neceilary fupplics muft be provided very 
long beforchand. It muft be remembced too that 
the 


316 OBSERVATIONS ON MANILLA. 


the fhips that come from Manilla have to traverfe fers 
where there is much to be Anprsnendsd from an cne- 

-my ; and it will be almoft abfolutely neceflary to di. 
vide the forces more or lefs, in order to proted their 
return, 

Taking the Jaft war for an example, I think that 
the fleet of M. le Bailli de Suffren was of the great. 
cft utility to the colony of Manilla, by occupying all 
the forces of the enemy, and preventing them from 
meditating any other diftant expcdition, while, on 
the contrary, the city of Manilla could be ufeful to 
the former in cafe it could have fupplied him with 
piaftres; but as that is not a production of the coun- 
try, it is only to be expected from Mexico, which ne- 
ver fends more than fufficient for the moft urgent 
wants of the Spanifh colony. 

The Spaniards, whether Creoles or Europeans, in 

‘the whole ifland of Luconia are only eftimated at 
3,200. It as a fingular fact, that not one Spanith fa- 
mily has continued 'to the fourth generation, while 
the population of the Indians has augmented fince 
the conqueft, becaufe the land docs not, as in Ame- 
rica, conceal within its bofom thofe deftructive me- 
tals, whofe minces have fwallowed up the generations 
of feveral millions of men employcd in working them. 
In the ifland of Luconia only a few grains of gold are 
found diffeminated among the fand of the rivers ; and 
the Jabour of collcéting it is even lefs fatiguing than 
that of cultivating the land. The Spaniards are alfo 
fovereigns of the Southern Philippine Hlands, nearly 
inthe fume manner as the King of Sardinia is King of 
Cyprus and Jerufalem, or the King of England King 
of France. They have, in fact, a few prefidios in the 
neighbouring iflands, and in Mindanao, but their h- 
mits are not more extenfive than thofe of Oran or 
Ceuta, on the coaft of Africa. 


FORMOSS. 


IF y 
chapter 
sigatio 
ready f 
that ifl 
the far 
mit où 
ter of t 
boat of 
guns, | 
wat W 
and it 
patche 
to nav 
ward d 
the Ct 
with 
deterre 
is to b 
other 1 
boat te 
pect w 
and w 
tants ; 
to lan 
inform 
compr 
T have 
ed wi 
the fc 
negles 
both. 
confic 
or Og 
ports 
necedl 


pA . 


to traverfe feqs 
bd from an cne. 
neceflary to di. 
o protect their 


ey I think that 
is of the great- 
r occupying all 
ing them from 
ion, while, on 
ld be ufeful to 
lied him with 
n of the coun- 
‘ico, which ne- 
e moft urgent 


Europeans, in 
y eftimated at 
one Spanifh fa- 
eration, while 
ymented fince 
t, as in Ame- 
efiructive me- 
he generations 
vorking them. 
ins of gold are 
he rivers ; and 
atiguing than 
iards are alfo 
lands, nearly 
inia is King of 
england King 
refidios in the 
, but their li- 
e of Oran or 


FORMOS3. 


317 
FORMOSA. 
IF you have devoted a few moments to reading the 
chapter in my journal relative to Manilla, and my na- 
sigation along the coaft of Formofa, you will have al- 
ready perceived that I anchored before the capital of 
that ifland oppofite the ancient port of Zcland ; but 
the fand-banks, of which this coaft is full, did not per- 
mit our fhips to approach within a league and a quar- 
tr of that place. I did not think proper to fend a 
boat on fhore, which I could not protect with my 
guns, fearing it might be detained on account of the 

war which at that time exifted between this colon 

and its metropolis. M. d’Entrecafteaux had dif- 
patched the fhip la Sylphide to Manilla, to defire me 
to navigate with great circumfpeétion to the north- 
ward of China, as the leaft uneafinefs on the part of 
the Chinefe might be injurious to the negociation 
with which he was entrufted. I confefs I was not 
deterred by this motive, for I am convinced more 
is to be gained of the Chinefe by fear than by any 
other means : but I confidered that, in fending a 
boat to Taywan, the greateft advantage I could cx- 
pect would be its returning with a few refrefhments, 
and without any communication with the inhabi- 
tants; for even fhould the officer be permitted 
to land, moft certainly he could have given me no 
information upon his return, fince he could aot have 
comprehended a fingle word of Chinefe. Thus fhould 
Ihave rifked very great inconveniences, unattend- 
ed with the hope of any advantage, had Phazarded 
the fending a boat on fhore. I did not, however, 
neglect to obtain information relative to*Formota, 
both at China and Manilla, and I think I may very 
confidently affert, that 2 frigates, 4 corvettes, and 5 
or Ügun-boats, with a fufficient number of tranf- 
ports for 4,000 troops, provided with artillery and all 
neceflary ammunition, would be fufficient to fecure 
the 


318 OBSERVATIONS ON 


the fuccefs of this expedition, which a wife may 
would not undertake with a fmaller force, though 
perhaps 1200 or 1500 men would appear Hinfficicat 
to thofe enterprifing adventurers, who having no- 
thing to lofe, make war a game of mere hazard, with. 
out confidering how humiliating it is for a great na- 
tion to mifcarry in its attempts againtt a people very 
inferior in courage, in arms, and in military fcicnce; 
though, in my opinion, far above the contemptible 
rank in which they are held by Europeans. The em- 

ire of China #s fo vaft, that a great difference may 


well be fuppofed to exift between the inhabitants of 


the northern and fouthern parts, the latter of whom are 
a cowardly mean-fpirited people. Europeans inha- 
biting the province of Canton, from an acquain- 
tance with their character, entertain the moft con: 
temptible opinion of the Chinefe. 

But the inhabitants of the north, thofe Tartars who 
conquered China, muft not be eonfountled with this 


fervile race. Yet, though fuperior to the Chinefe of 


the fouth, I cannot compare them with even the worft 
of our troops; to whom they are füll far inferior, 


though not fo much in courage, as in their manner of 


making war. Be this as it may, the Chinefe, who 
confider the prefervation of Formofa of the highet 
importance, keep a garrifon of 10,000 Tartars on this 
ifland. Their cannon, their forts, even the pofts 
which they occupy, and in which they are intrench- 
éd, I difregard ; but I think an enterprize of fuch 
a nature, fhould never be formed without an almoft 
abiolute ecrtainty of a fuccefsful conclufion. The 
coaft of Formofa being flat, fmall veflels only can ap- 
proach it, and boats drawin; æ fcven or cight feet water, 
carrying guns, and adapted for protecting the defcent, 
would be abfolutely requifite. The firft operation 
ought to be that of gaining pofléflion of the Pcfcador 
Iflands, where there is a good harbour, to fhelter the 
ficet ; and it would not require more than five or fix 

hours 


‘hou 


lan 
ana 
fore 
the 


are | 


S 
the 
dera 
lony 
fout 
nitic 
thor 
cout 
T 
and 

to 1 
{trot 
Iflar 
dem 
not 


emp 


fect 
{ped 
the 

to C 
iflan 
{ur 

ke 
But 
Frat 
cern 


1 a wife man 
force, though 
pear fufficient 
o having no- 
> hazard, with- 
for a great na- 
t a people very 
litary feience; 
; contemptible 
ins. The em- 
lifference may 


inhabitants of: 


er of whom are 
uropeans inha- 
) an acquain- 
the moft con- 


fe Tartars who 
nded with this 
» the Chinefe of 
even the wortt 
ll far inferior, 
heir manner of 

Chinefe, who 
of the highett 
Tartars on this 
even the pofts 
Vy are intrench- 
erprize of {uch 
hout an almoft 
iclufion. The 
Is only can ap- 
ight feet water, 
ng the defcent, 
firft operation 

f the Pcfcador 
, to fhelter the 
than five or fix 
hours 


FORMOSA. ~ 319 


hours to crofs the channel which feparates thefe 


ilands from Formofa. The time for executing fuch 
an attempt, would be April, May, and June, and be- 
fore the months of July and Auguft, during which, 
the feas of China are expofed to water fbonts, which 


are greatly to be dreaded by {hips 


Should this expedition be made in concert with 
the Spaniards, the entrepdt of Manifla would confi- 
derably facilitate its fuccefs; becaufe from that co 
lony, it is at'aïktimes cafy to effect a landing on the 
fouthern part of Formofa ; and provifions and ammu- 
nition would be found there, which might be wanted, 
thould a refifancs or the lof of any fhips render fuc- 
cours necefiary. 

The ifland of Formofa is of very great importance ; 
and any nation poffeiling it, and cflentially ftudying 
to improve it to the belt advantage, by keeping a 
firong garrifon there, with a marine at the Pefcador 
Iflands, would obtain by fear every thing they might 
demand of the Chinefe. Lam convinced, that had 
not the Englifh been engaged in wars, which have 


employed all their forces, they wouid already have ef- 


fected this conquett, more interefting in every re- 
{pect for them, than for any other nation, becaufe 
the pernicious ufe of tea, has rendered them tributary 
toChina, and that plant is become in all the Britith 
iflands, an article of firtt neceffity. I fhould not be 
furprifed, foon to behold all Europeans reduced to 
the fame condition in China, as the Dutch in Japan. 
But this revolution will be of little importance to 
France, and even to the reft of Europe, whofe con- 
cerns with China are not worth their fubmitting to 
any humiliations ; though I muft once more obferve, 
that the Englifh will cither be obliged to fubmit to 
them or to engage in a war; and I have no doubt 
they would then rather adopt the latter alternative. 

It is well known in Europe, that the eaftern part 
of Formofa is inhabited by the aborigines, and does 
not 


320 OBSERVATIONS ON 


not recognize the fovereignty of the Chinefe ; but the 
weftern part is extremely populous, becaufe the Chi. 
nefe being too numerous, and greatly opprefled in 
their own country, are always ready to emigrate, 
I have been affured, that fince the conqueft of the 
ifland, 500,000 have removed there, and that the ca- 
pie city contained 50,000 inhabitants. As thefe 
ive in habits of labour and induftry, this would be 
a further advantage to the conquerors. But it muft 
ever be kept in view, that greater forces would, per- 
haps, be required to keep in fubjection than to con- 
quer a people, naturally very prone to rebellion ; and 
that if, after conquering the ifland, the means of 
preferving it fhould be neglected, and the vicors 
avoid the expence of keeping, and recruiting a hody 
of three or four thoufand men, at fo vatt a diftance, 
they would run the rifk of being all maflacred. 

I believe the produce of this ifland, would\one day 
defray the expences of its government ; but I am per. 
fuaded, that the firft years of its poffeffion would be 
very expenfive, and a miniftry would {ce with regret, 
confiderable fums of money pafs over to this part of 
Afia, which prornifed but a very diftant return, 

The commerce with China would at firft be inter- 
rupted, but it would, in my opinion, foon revive with 
increafed vigour, and permiffion would certainly be 
obtained, to vifit the feveral ports of the province 
of Fokien, the coaft of which forms once fide of the 
Bay of Formofa. It remains to be confidered what 
opening offers for the Chinefe articles of commerce, 
the bafis of which is tea, an articie confumed hardly 
any where but in England, a little in Holland, and 
in the United States of America. 

I may, therefore, conclude this memoir with an af- 
furance.of the poffibility of conquering Formofa, by 
the means I have pointed out, and part’ alarly fhould 
we be favoured with the affiftance of the Spaniard: 
of Manilla; but it is not equally clear that this con- 

quelt 


hinefe ; but the 
ecaufe the Chi. 
ly oppreffed in 
y to emigrate, 
conqueft of the 
ind that the ca- 
nts. As thefe 
, this would be 
s. But it muft 
ces would, per- 
yn than to con- 
rebellion ; and 
, the means of 
and the victors 
cruiting a hody 
vaft a diftance, 
saflacred, 
_wouldione day 
; but Iam per. 
effion would be 
fee with regret, 
r to this part of 
at return, 
at firft be inter- 
foon revive with 
ald certainly be 
f the province 
one fide of the 
onfidered what 
5 of commerce, 
nfumed hardly 
Holland, and 


moir with an af- 
x Formosa, by 
* alarly fhould 
f the Spaniards 
r that this con- 
queft 


TEREBRATULA OR POULETTE. 321 
quéft would not be an-additional burden, to the ftate, 
and then it would be far better not to have conquer- 
ed, than to permit fuch a fettlement to languith. 


Jn the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, 
ioth September, i787. : : 


DO OSE 


ORSERVATIONS ON. THE TEREBRATULA, ANOMIA; OR 
POULETTE. 


And a Defcription of a Species of that Animal found in 
the Seas of Eaftern Tartary ; by M. de Lamanon, 
Member of the Academy of Turin, and Correfpondent 
Member of the Academy of Sciences. 


THE animal called terebratula, or poulette, has 
long been found in a ftate of petrefaction ; and it has 
been thought, that nothing analogous to this fhell 
now exifts in the fea. It would, however, have been 
eafy to prove the contrary.. The terebratula, if I 
may be allowed the expreffion, belongs to all ages, 
and all countries. :Cotemporary with thofe fhell- 
fifh, whofe race is now extinct, though they once 
peopled the ancient waters, it has furvived them ; 
and after having efcaped the aftonifhing revolutions of 
the earth, which have deftroyed the greater number 
of tefacee, pifces, and cruflacee, it has witnefled a new 
race fucceeding the old and former, as the feas of the 
prefent day have gradually been formed. The foffil te- 
rebratula is found in the mountains of all climates, 
ard moft frequently among the belemnites *, the re- 


* Belemnites, vulgarly called thunder-dclts, or thunder ftones, are 
fuppofed to be originally either a part of fome marine produétion, 
or a ftone formed in the cavity of fome worm-fhell, which being of 
a tender and brittle nature, has perithed, after giving its form to the 
ftone. They are often inclofed in, or adhere to other ftones, and 
are moft frequent in gravel or in clay : they abound in Gloucefter, 
and are found near Dedington in Oxfordfhire, where they fome- 
times contain the filver marcafite.—-T ran/lator. 

Vor. IT. D mains 


322 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 


mains of cornu ammonis, hyfterolithes, and other 
aquatic inhabitants of the ancient world, The living 
terebratula is found in the midft of fhells of late for- 
mation, in both hernifpheres. 

Aldrovandus has given, under the name of 
chamæ, the figure of a truc poulette caught in the 
fea; but he wrote as was the fafhion in the end of 
the fixtcenth century. It was not till 1748 that the 
foffil terebratula was difcovered ; and Volfterdorfis, 
I believe, the firft who has fpoken of it, in his Sy 
téme Minéral, printed at that time. The learned 
tranflator of Lehman fays ina note, Book III, page 
182, that M. de Juffieu fhewed him a fpecimen 
analogous to the terebratula, found in the fea 
near Marfeilles. M, de Bois-jourdain, at Paris, and 
M. Schmidt, at Berne, are faid each to poffefs a ma- 
rine terebratula in their rich cabinets. M. de Jou- 
bert has defcribed, fome years ago, in the Memoirs 
of the Academy, the poulettes of the fea of Montpe- 
lier, which are in general fmaller than thofe found in 
the mountains. I have fome in my cabinet as large 
as the foffils that come from the feas of Malta; and 
I have feen others in the cabinet of natural hiftory 
belonging to the univerfity of Turin, that were taken 
in the feas of Nice. Some are found at Leghorn, 
and M. de Luc has had one in his cabinet more than 
five and twenty years; of which he fays, “ It is not 
of the fpecies moft commonly found among foffils.” 
(Lettres fur 1 Hiftoire de la Terre et de l Homme, firft 
letter, page 238.) They are alfo found in the Adri- 
atic Gulph. M. l’Abbé Fortis, who difcovered them, 
fays, that they keep at a depth of two hundred feet 
in the neighbourhood of the harbour of Siberico, and 
are found ata much greater depth in the caverns 
where coral is formed. The poulette has promi- 
nences on both fides, and is flightly canulicated both 
in its length and breadth. He confiders it as a new 
fpecies, and adds that, in part, it refembles the = 

| 


_and other 
The living 
Of late for- 


> name of 
ught in the 
the end of 
748 that the 
Tolfterdorf is, 
, in his Sy/- 
The learned 
0k IIT, page 
a fpecimen 
in the fea 
at Paris, and 
poffefs a ma- 
M. de Jou- 
he Memoirs 
1 of Montpe- 
nofe found in 
inet as large 
Malta; and 
tural hiftory 
t were taken 
at Leghorn, 
bet more than 
s, “It is not 
ong foffils.” 
Homme, firtt 
in the Adri- 
overed them, 
hundred feet 
Siberico, and 
the caverns 
has promi- 
ulicated both 
s it as a new 
bles the fof- 
fil 


TEREBRATULA OR POULETTE. 323 


fil powlette defcribed by M. le Baron de Hapech, of 
which he has gen the figure, (plate iv. Nos. 16 and 
17). That of Mahon has been known at Paris, as 
are thofe which come from the Indies, and of which 
one fpecies is fmooth, and another ftriated. They 
are alfo met with in the Norwegian feas, and M. de 
Bougainville caught one of them in the Strait of 
Magellan. 

Foffil poulettes have been found in a much greater 
number of places; and the varieties they prefent are 
much more numerous. During my voyage I have 
collected nearly thirty fpecies, the laft of which I 
found at Port des Frangais, on the north weft coaft 
of America. On comparing the foffil poulettes with 
the living animals of that clafs, I haye found fome 
of them exactly fimilar. To fome of the marine 
animals no analogous petrification is known; but 
there ars flill more among the petrifications for which 
no counterpart has yet been found in the fea. 

I have: met with a few fmall poulettes on fome muf- 
cles drawn up by the Bouffole’s men with their lines 
near the Bay of Ternai, in about 35 fathoms water. 
Sixty-two leagues more to the northward, near the 
Baie de Suffren, both large and {mall were caught on 
board the Bouffole, as well as by the Aftrolabe ; and 
M. de la Péroufe having thrown out the drag to 
know whether thefe fhores produced pearl oyfters, 
it brought up a fpecies of pectinated oyfter, which I 
thal! elfewhere defcribe, and a great quantity of pou- 
lettes, apparently of different ages. The poulette 
forming of itfelf a feparate genus, I thought it necef- 
fary to examine it with attention, and to defcribe, 
not only its fhell, but the animal by which it is in- 
habited. ‘This has not hitherto been done; for the 
defcription of the two poulettes, by M. Pallas, was 
taken from very imperfect fpecimens, as I fhall have 
an opportunity of demonftrating. In the excellent 
work of M. Adamfon on the fhells of Senegal, an 

Y2 explanation 


jm LI@HSERVATIONS ON THE 


“ckplaiation will be! fond “of the che 
vie. Rave beer die ged to adopt.: | 
du Jen 
saa aii. OF THE COAST Pre 


| fe PAR. Va Dafiription of the She chr 
lined lines Jen 

20 by 18 in the largeft {pecimens. 

: Dimenfions. : 184 by 12inthofe of a snide 

Tote et 6: by: 05 /in the fmalleft., Jovi 


ofore, he ‘diftinguithed bythe" pro 

hells; Not do’ the’ fea fes of 

better " dittin ite’ ‘chatiGterss 
hy Gn the fame fpecies, the fhell : aps 
Srbicular form, ‘or varies from, that 


‘tha 7 nent and that fomie have'theedpés of 


valves Gr ‘the fame plain} while’ im‘ others one 
€ valves thakes a ‘falient-angle it the’ middle of 

16, edge; ‘and: the other à téturning angle. 
Nate of the fre. "Thé fhell is of a thoderate 
tickets nearly réf ‘that’ of the common 
mrifete.” Tt is fomevehat tran patent and convex, end 
fwollen like’ the chamiæ. “Neither of the ‘valves is 
as more convex than the! other! but that which 
the fpur, is rather more | ‘fo, partiéularly in its 


On the fhrfiee of the? fhell' tire! feen very 
Mt tranfverfe ¢hatitiels,° femi-citcular:a dures à 
dating. which “unite ‘at the: place where” ie a 
beat tobe circular, and forms the: phele, n ren 
cars the fümmit. | RUN 
NEA ah sing These ftriæ are: covet i D 
fine and flightly adhering periofteurn. ' Sonié RE 
be fom: “one to three fhallow ‘and ‘broad ‘deprettigns © L 


Penn from the centér of. the fhell in a ii aii 
mo 


POULETUES 


yar ry 


ell api 
rom: that 
he: “edges of 
m'others one 
he’ ‘middle of 
le: 

fa moderate 
the common 
d ‘convex, end 
the ‘valves 3s 
ut that which 
Sularly in its 


ad M 
n amanner al 
moft 


AN OM | : t > { i Ÿ se Tw pa > rop 
A of | 5 q : ; y 
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Lib. lune 20 7794, bvL. Stockdale. 


sy 


or 


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i 
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S0 = 
tay GS ala 
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[es 
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” 


TEREBRATULA OR. POULETTE. 325. 


,  moft infenfible,. terminating at the edges where they. 

are more marked, and, with the correfponding parts. 
of the other. valve, - fon the: falient and ; returning, 
angles before mentioned. This perioftenm : adheres-4 
little more rangs, at at, the xeturning than. at the. 
lient Se ae 


‘Valves. The Re di da hat ne dE their’ | 
4 


circumference; whieh, is round, | y exactly 
but, towards the fummit, one one ig al Fes a 
four, see tke the ose ‘the 


whee 2" 


tion ‘of it its upper fides. the folded oat SR a con-. 
fiderable aperture, rather ofan oval fhape, and large ;- 
and through, this-the, animal protrudes the muiele, 
by which it adheres, to any-extraneous bady,; Thefe. 
edges not being joined, a fpace is left between. them 
occupied by the fummit. of the other valve ; ; and thus: 
they have a free motion: this fhell is therefore not 
perforated, as its, name feems to indicate; for the 
opening is not pierced through onc of the valves, but 
formed by, the elongation of the one, the folding of 
its edges, and. the approach of the. other. IE _the 
fummit,is not pointed but round. 

Ligament. The ligament, as in the ET TA is 
placed between the fummits, is. not apparent exter- 
nally, and is fitted to:the pedicle of the animal. As 
the fummit; occupies a confiderable part of the fhell, 
the two valves cannot -be. opened far without danger | 
of breaking. 1t is very folid, though, fine and farce- 
ly apparent ; is enclofed in; a little channel, filled, 
when the fhell.is clofed, by the ridge of the corres 
pondent part of the valvé which has the fpur. ‘This 
ligament, prefer ves.its fpring, and docs-not, became 
very brittle, even. after the -fhcll is empty and. quite 
dry 

Hinge. Oyfters have no Wangs being ‘devoid of 

Y 3 thofe 


326 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 
thofe teeth by which it is formed in many other 
fhell-fifh. The terebratula has been confidered as 
an oyfter, becaufe its hinge, which indeed is not to 
be found in the foffil fhell, has not been examined ; 
but on opening the live poulette, teeth are difcovered 
compofing the hinge, even larger than thofe of a 
great number of other fhells. ig 

' It is very remarkable that in a foffile ftate the valves 
of this animal are almoft always united ; other bival- 
vular fhells have their valves generally either open or 
totally feparated ; a fa&t which muft be attributed to 
the nature of the hinge: that of the poulette will not 
permit it to feparate, and the ligament which it pre- 
ferves, and which is very extenfive, contributes ta 
keep the two valves united. 

he teeth that form the hinge of the poulette near- 

ly refemble thofe of the /pondylus defcribed \by M. 
À damfon, and are formed of two round prominences 
in the /pondylus, and fomewhat elongated in the pou- 
Jette. Above thefe teeth is placed the ligament, in 
the fpur valve. Between this and the teeth are two 
cavities, one on each fide, ferving as alveoli to receive 
the teeth of the other valve, where are fimilar alveo- 
li for the fame purpofe. The teeth of the fpur-valve 
have befides a flight ridge, which enters into a lon- 
gitudinal channel perceivable in the other valve, in 
the interior part of every tooth. — 

Nacre or Enamel, The fubftance which covers the 
infide of the fhell, holds a middle rank, like that of 
the oyfter, between mother of pearl and the interior 
of fhells which have no fuch coat, and its colour, 
glofs, polifh and thicknefs vary,. not only with 
the age of the animal, but alfo in different indivi- 
duals, es dl 


Colour. The colour of the teeth is always white. 
The outfide of the fhell inclines more or lefs to that 
of red ochre, particularly towards the edges ; and ee 

oe ee ee peas à infide 


many other 
onfidered as 
ed is not to 
1 examined ; 
e difcovered 
. thofe of a 


ite the valves 

other bival- 
ither open or 
attributed to 
Jette will not 
which it pre- 
ontributes to 


poulette near- 
ribed \by M. 
| prominences 
d in the pou- 
: ligament, in 
eeth are two 
coli to receive 
fimilar alveo- 
the fpur-valve 
rs into a lon- 
ther valve, in 


ich covers the 
, like that of 
d'the interior 
d its colour, 
ot only with 
ferent indivi- 


always white. 
pr lefs to that 
Iges ; and the 
- infide 


‘ TEREBRATULA OR POULETTE. 327 


infide has alfo a very light fhade ofthe fame red on a 
varying ground of greyifh white., > |" 
+ Tendons.' ‘The defcription of thefe ‘belonging to 
that of the animal, we fhall here confider ef their 
fitüation and impreffion on the fhell.. On each valve 
of the poxderte I examined, the placés of the two ten- 
dons were feen very diftinétly. In this refpec alfo 
they differ from the genus ochreæ, which have only 
one tendon paffing from the middle of their ‘body. 
The tendons of M in the fpur-valve are ob- 
long, fituated near the fummit and hollow. Each of 
them ‘has curved tranfverfe furrows divided’ by a 
longitudinal furrow, being a tolerable imitation of the 
wings of feveral infects. In the other valve, the ten- 
dons are of a different fhape. They are placed in 
the fame manner, and very irregularly rounded, and 
Gre circumfcribed with two canulations, which’ leave 
a kind of ridge between them, and then continue in a 
ftraight line towards the! aperture of the fhell, about 
two thirds of its length. This ridge is a refemblance 
of a taylor’s fhears. a Te 
That part of the fummit of the fhell through which 
the pedicle of the animal paffes, is ftriated longitudinal- 
lyin the fpur-valve, the middle ftria being the deepef ; 
and there is one tranfverfe ftria dividing all the lon- 
gitudinal ftria,in two equal parts. Nothing fimilar 
appears in the other valve, us | 
The fhells of poulettes have, in the infide, a very 
thin part peculiar to themfelves, which fome authors 
have mentioned under the name of tongue or fork, 
becaufe they had never feen them entire. It ferves 
to fuftain the body of the animal, and will be de- 
fcribed in fpeaking of its more immediate ufe. 


Se. II.—Defcription of the Animal, 


THE anatomy of fhell-fith js very delicate, and 
prefents infurmountable difficulties. The isa À 
YA 0 


828 … pQBSBRVATIONS ON -THE , 

ef Rhedi,of Régumur and of Swammerdam, have left 
it {till far from complete, and in, their immortal works 
they. have confefld they often wandered in, the dark. 
Tn the animals;that inhabit fhells, and;partieularly m 
the bivalvular, many parts. remain, to :be difcovered, 
and the: ufes of others are yet undetermined, . Fur- 
ther comparifons are required relative to the, generic, 
fpecific and individual differences, and_in this ftudya 
vaft field is ftill left to. be explored, ;, Some difcove- 
ries of the kind 1 hoped to have. made in. the diffec- 
‘tion of the animal which inhabits the bénisier fcallop, 
or pecten'maximus, which isthe largeft of the bivalvular 
tribe hitherto known, and in which all the parts mutt 
be diflinétly apparent, I faw.a, few : of thefe shells 
at the, Philippines, but. the province, that fupplied 
them: was.too far. from,the port of. Cavita, where .we 
hadputin, It:would be far, beyond my, powers to 
give the complete anatomy:of.the fifh, but Dee 


the example. of Adamfon, L fhal . confider the parts 
that are moft known, and which fuffice to diflinguith 


the genus. | 
Une " Manteau and. Trachea. | 


The menteau of the poulette of Baie de Suffren, 
is, formed by a very fine membrane, which covers 
the whole of the infide of both valves, and enfolds 
the body ofthe animal. At its, origin it is of the 
whole breadth. of the ‘hinge, but afterwards divides 
into two lobes, one of which covers the fpur-valve, 
and the.other that on which.the body of the animal 
refts. , It forms, therefore, only one aperture, which 
terminates at each end of the hinge, and is of equal 
extent With the interior furfaces of the fhell. “ Thus 
therc is in appearance but one trachea, formed by two 
lobes of the manteau. ‘M. de Pallas did not diftin- 
guifh the:manteau in the twa varieties he has,de- 
fcribéd, but has called them,, very improperly, per 
: tt ts | ofica; 


lam, have left 
mortal works 
| in, the. dark. 
articularly in 
e, difcovered, 
nined, F Ur- 
the, generic, 
in this ftudy a 
ome, difcove- 
in. the diffec- 
utier tcallop, 
he bivalvular 
he parts muft 
:thefe fhells 
that fupplied 
a,..where .we 
y, powers. to 
sut following 
der the parts 
0 diftinguith 


ede Suffren, 
vhich’ covers 
and enfolds 
it is of the 
vards divides 
> fpur-valve, 
F the animal 
ture, which 
dis of equal 
hell. ‘Thus 
rmed by two 
d not diftin- 
he has,de- 
operly, peri- 

ONCE 


TEREBRATULA OR POULETTR. 229 


oftea ; an error into, which he has ‘been led, by the 
decayed flate. of the dried fpecimens he examined... 
|. Mujeles,.... After partly opening the thell, I cut ‘the 
ligament as delicat ly as paffible’ ;opened the hinge, 
and having detached from the fpur-valve the lobe of 
the manteau which covers it, pulled it over the, body 
ofthe animal. By this operation I difcovered the 
great. ies which adhere;to the ‘fpur-yalye ; they 
are, foft, membranous, and,,as it, were, flefhy within, 
heing covered with {mall fangniferous glands, : From 
the inferior part of each mufcular area aries a firong 
tendon, reaching to the extremity of, the, manteau, 
They, run parallel to the edge of the fhell, and are at 
a diftance from cach other. . Each.of thefe is inclofed 
ina kind of flat bag, in form of a ribbon, which is 
filled with a, red yifcid matter. The place from 


whenec the mufclesfpring, furnith, befides the mufeles 


which extend over the lobe of the manteau, a true 
blood, principally contained in-three fmall flefhy red 
bodies, of a, glandular, form, and. unequal, thicknefs, 
which may, be pereeived, on tearing the mufcles near 
their root, and perhaps, fupply the place ‘of a heart. 
The anotomy of thell-fith is not fufficicntly advanced 
to decide this queftion ;: but certain it is, that in the 
poulette, the mufcles attached to the fpur-valve, are 
covered with flefhy, parts, containing a confidcrable 
quantity of blood, as well as. two other mufcles, 
which originate in. the fame place,.and contribute to 
form the pedicle, of which I fhall prefently fpeak. . 
The mufcles attached to the other valve, are alfo 
divided into feveral parts. Some of them run over the 
lobe of the manteau ; feveral rife in a kind of tuft, 
and. are adapted to the fuperior valve ; fome are fub- 
divided, fo that I could not follow their ramifications, 
even with a microfeope ; but others more apparent, 
contribute, to form. the pedicle which  portrudes 
through the aperture left between the two valves, at- 
taches to both of them by feveral tendons, and fafiens 

, on 


330 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

on external bodies, particularly on other living fhell. 
fi. The mufoles of the poulette have therefore, 
three attachments, one on the internal furface of each 
fhell, and the third on any foreign body, 

The pedicle is cylindrical, furrounded by a mufcu- 
lar fubftance, inclofing feveral tendons, and is from 
one lirie to two and a half in length, and two thirds 
of a line in diameter. By what means it adheres fo 
forcibly to different bodies I am ignorant ;° for is is 
eafier to lacerate both the animal and every feparate 
mufcle which arifes from the infide and unites with 
the pedicle, than to detach the pedicle itfelf, from 
the bafe it faftens on; and the ater which unites 
them refifts even the heat of boiling water. This pe- 
dicle fupports the fhell, and keeps it fo elevated, that 
when in the water, it is found in a pofition inclined 
towards the horizon. The narroweft valve\ which 
contains the animal is always the loweft, and is cover- 
ed by the fuperior or fpur-valve. There is, therefore, 
no reafon for generally calling the fmallefl the fupe- 
rior valve; though attending only to the fhells of 
oyfters arranged in cabinets, it has been crroneoufly 
imagined, that the finalleft was always the fupcrior, 
and ferved as a covering to the larger. | 

To determine with certainty, whether thefe animals 
poñefsthefaculty of locomotion, or remain continually 
fixed in the place of their birth, would require a long 
courfe of obfervation and experiment. I have reafon, 
however, to believe they have the power of moving 
from one place to another, but that it is very rarely 
done throughout the courfe of their exiftence. Hav- 
ing detached feveral pedicles with a fharp inftrument, 
I obferved, particularly in the larger fort, that they 
were fixed in a fmall cavity formed in the fhell to 
which they adhered; and this kind of excava- 
tion, and the ftrong adherence of the pedicle to any 
_ extraneous body, prove in fome meafure, that the 
poulette occupies the fame place for a very long Lx 
ut 


living fhell, 
ve therefore, 
urface of each 


by a mufcu- 
and is from 
nd two thirds 
‘it adheres fo 
ant ; for is is 
very feparate 
l unites with 
le itfelf, from 
which unites 
er. This pe- 
elevated, that 
ition inclined 
valve| which 
and is cover- 
sis, therefore, 
eft the fupe- 
the fhells of 
n crroneoufly 
the fuperior, 


thefe animals 
in continually 
equire a long 
have reafon, 
er of moving 
is very rarely 
ftence. Hay- 
D inftrument, 
rt, that they 
‘the fhell to 
of excava- 
pedicle to any 
re, that the 
ry long time. 
But 


TEREBRATULA OR POULETTE. - 331 
But I found feyeral groupes of fmall ones fo clofe to’: 
er, that they could not without incommod- 
ing each other; for a fingle poulette of a moderate’ 
occupies an me fpace with five or fix fall ones, 
ills. Afterraifing upthelobeof the manteau, which 
I had pulled over on the body of the animal, I ob- 
ferved its gills, which are large, and compofed of two 
membranous laminæ on each fide, of which the upper 
is the narroweff. Thefe laminæ are united by a 
fine membrane, fo as to form together but one pouch, 
and at their edges have long flenbrice floating on the 
manteay, But the moft remarkable phenomenon is, 
that the gills are fupported by fmall bones as in fith. 
Thefe bones I ‘thal defcribe, after having enume- 
rated the foft parts diftinguifhable in thefe i 
lettes. ‘The gills are arched on each fide, and fepa- 
rated at the lower part, where the fimbriæ are. 
longeft, fo that the two gillson one fide are perfect 
diftin€l from thofe of the oppofite fide. Thefe gills 
have their origin at the teeth of the hinge. # 
Mouth, Œfophagus, Stomach. Inthe middle of the 
ills, are feen the mouth, cefophagus and ftomach, 
Siné a triangle, of which the firft is the bafe. 
It is placed toward the hinge, and formed by a 
large tranfverfe aperture without a jaw-bone, and 
with lips not very apparent. ‘The œfophagus is 
very fhort, but capable of elongation, when the 
animal opens its mouth. The “‘omach, which is 
in the fhape of a pointed fack, :: attached by a 
membrane to’ the fmall bones of the gills, but only 
in the upper part, and for half its length. On open- 
ing it, J found a fimall fhrimp entire, and another 
half digefted. It is difficult to conceive how fhrimps, 
which poffefs great agility, and good eyes, fhould fuf- 
fer themfelves to be entrapped by a blind animal, 
who can fcarcely open his fhell, and is fixed in an im- 
moveable fituation : but nature has given to animals, 
and aquatics in particular, unknown means of ac- 
: complifh 


382- 1 PRABRYATIONS ON bar 


complith, their vital funétionss. and. thçfe means, if 
Amigbt conduog, by fome, 


The, fre 


jure... ont, prod ec osewokved? J 
: Small Bones, of the Gills The fall bones of. the 
gills, .which I bave. difcovgred jn, thefe ,animals, have 
not, hitherto, been por ja any.animal of the or- 


der of teftacea, and in this the tercbratula approach 
nearer to fifh, than any. other of that tribe. ‘ Only a 
fmal} part of thefebones: remain in the: poulettes feen 
in cabinets; and thence aig derived the, improper 
appellations.of tongue.and,furk,.whichoarc only appli. 
cable to: the. form of the fragments there cxhibited, 
and do not indicate-their uf.) ig 

.: The; fall bones. ofthe, gills. are compofed of 
feverak pieces. . The. principal. is of, an, oval. form, 
and, arifes from cach fide. of; the. hinge, appearing to 
be an elongation, of the :falient parts. . It. extends 
more, than two-thirds the length, of the et, where 
it is reflected, and terminates:above the: fork,, to, the 
branches of which it isunited, by mere fuperpofition ; 
a fort.of articulation, very, common. in, the: numerous 
parts,, that compofe. the heads. of fith..., Lhe fork: is 
fituated at fomewhat more than;two-thirds,the length 
of. the .fhell, reckoning from the fummit; and is 
fit oe eae ok “formed 


ef mess, if 
MS Jertanate, 


Hg dos oer 
GJRERLAE te, 
ra like asco. 
being: ath à 
is. fortned of 
expelled. on, 
afily rejected 
c, two. lobes, 
of, the : pou 
trance. of the, 
1 other: fmall 
iationsof the 
that, of the 
nny this cons 


bones of the 
nimals, have 
al of the or- 


ule à "Nua 
be. . Only a 
poulettes {een 
he improper 
conly appli. 
re, cxhibited, 


compofed of 
n, oval form, 
appearing to 
It. extends 
hé, where 
fork, to. the 
tperpolition ; 
be numerous 
he fork: is 
Is the length 
mit ; and is 
* formed 


TERESRATVLX ON POULRITE. $33 
formed). bp ecpitot) divided intô Mtwe:ilong ‘pointed 
chin hd Fa dncpaimoïilÿ:fragile, and fits 
told ringed iterate ap! oH 8 extremities 26f: the 
finale bones pf the orge gilliny eWiietamins,; which 
forms lof Seach ‘fide! w feconditiorder:af gills, is chin- 
nested witha! incurvatedsdborie)}! »wluch;! om one 
fide, is attachedrtotbe imfgrian! andi internal: part of 
the fall bone of the gills ;,and;on the/other; 
extends as far as the fide of the animal’s mouth, 
where it is united to another fmall and flat bone, 
which lies” upon! “a ‘fall bot, : fitnifaeto that on 
the other fide. Thefe laft bones are exactly be- 
low the ferBrahe hat forme “the mouth; . but 1 
am ignorant of their real ufe, ‘orwhether, as I pre- 
fume, 'the-anitil émniploys them in voluntatily open- 
ing and fhutting his ftomach,’ ‘by! difténding or con- 
trading the fKin‘atthe orifice? ‘AlFthefe bones eré 
flat, extremely brittle, and ferrotinded) with tendons 
and membranes.” Fhefe articulations give mobility 
to the gills, and they fupport the body'of the ani- 
mal, which touchés ‘neither of its ' valves)but refts 
in thé middle, ‘ds‘it’ were “upon 'treffels)'° The face 
comprifed between the branches of ‘the bones of thé 
gills,‘ is furtethed With ‘a tran{parent® but folid mem- 
brane; and a fimilar one rifes perpendicularly from 
the foot of the fork, and feparatés the ‘place where 
the body of the“aninal Ties fem all the reft of the 
fhell. , This membrane leaves atthe ‘two cornérs an 
aperture: comiutrenting With the pate Between the 
lobes’ Of ‘the ‘inanteay, “atid “whieh fupplies the place 
of a:thachea) for" it" has! Been’¥émarked, in the de- 
fcription of the manteau, that’ the itwo lobes are 
entirely Separate! ahd conieqtieritly forni Only à filfé 
trachea Pk TOC Sit 10! BSTISGS i 
Front this deliiption of the poolettel. it Hollews 
that this'animal ought Aét to ‘be elafied-in the fame 
genus with the dyfters for it has! an Hinge, feveral 
ligaments; “and at inteniah) fra ure,” entirely. dif- 
Mot ferent 


334 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

ferent from that fith: Nor muft it be confounded 
with chama, which have equal valves, no perceptible 
periofieam, à foot appearing externally, and two 
fethy pipes, befides other diftinguifhing characters ; 
ftill lefs does it refemble any other bivalve teftaceæ, 
and muft be claffed feparately ; as it forms of itfelf 
a genus, of which the: fpecies, either living or in a 

ftate, are very numerous. | 


BXPLANATION OF THE FIGURES. 


Fig, 1. Poulette of a middle fire, viewed on its un- 


der furface, | | 
À, the aperture through which the mufcular 


, pedicle, pafies, 
Fig. 2. Poulette of a middle fige, viewed on its 
upper furface, | 
Fig. 3 mn te Small poudeties, viewed on different 
, 1Ges. 
Fig. 5. Middle-fized poulette, viewed fideways. 
Fig. 6. Natural pofition of the animal in the water. 
Fig. 7.. The valve having the fpur. 
A, impreffion of the mufcles on the infide 
: of the fhell, 
Fig. 8. The lower valve. 
| À, impreffion of the mufcles, 
Fig. 9. Internal view of a poulette, | . 
AA, laminæ of the fuperior gills.—BB, thofe 
of the inferior gills.=C, the ftomach.— 
D, the anus:—ËE, thé manteau.—F, the 
cefophagus. 
Fig. 10. AA, mufculat pedicle, paffing through the 
aperture of the upper valve. 
Fig. 11, The {mall bones of the gills.—A, the fork. 
. . —+BBB, fmall bones of the larger gills.— 
CCC, lower valve.—DD, {mall bones be- 
low the cefophagus.—EE, points i 1 
ork. 


lve teftaceæ, 
rms of itfelf 
iving or in a 


ES. 

d on its un- 
the mufcular 
ewed on its 
on different 


deways. 
n the water. 


on the infide 


s.—HB, thofe 
> ftomach.— 
au.—F, the 


through the 


“A, the 3j 
arger gills.— 
all bones be- 
points. of the 
fork. 


CORNU AMMONIS, : 335 
fork.—FF, fmall bones of the fuperiot 
gills.—GG, teeth of the hinge to which 
the fmall bones of the gills are attached: 
—H, fituation of the pedicle.—II, places 


of the fimbriæ of the gills, 


OBSERVATIONS ON THE CORNU AMMONIS. 


Defeription of a Species found between the Tropicks in 
* the South Sea, By M. de Loin 


OF all the animals, whofe remains are found buried 
in the ancient beds of the ocean, the cornu ammonis 
is, indifputably, the moft abundant, the moft uni- 
verfally difperfed. And though fomc authors have 
a 8 à 300 varieties, from half a line or lefs, 
to ten. feet in circumference, the full number of 
them are by no means yet determined. Some na- 
turalifts, following the opinion of Linnæus, affert 
that animals, analogous to every fpecies of the foffil 
cornu ammonis, ftill exift in the vaft and deepeft 
abyfles of the fea, and for that reafon call them 
tekacea pelagi. Others, however, and in much greater 
numbers, unfatisfied with a mere affertion, confider 
the cornu ammonis as a genus of fhell fith, to be 
foundienly in a foffil ftate, and no longer a living 
inhabitant of the ocean. Many authors have given 
defcriptions of microfcopic ammonites, found among 
the fand caft on fhore by the waves of the (ea, in 
various places ; -but almoft all thefe. fhells,. when exe 
amined with more accuracy, have been difcovered to 
be only nautili. As for thofe Hoffman was fuppofed 
to have difcovered in Norway, he found latterly, they 
were not cornu ammonis, but tubuli marini. My 


opinion is, that our prefent feas may yet afford fome 


living 


, 
rm 


836 | OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

living fpeciinens of the cornu ammonié,: though fey 
ity nuniwWer;: and: different: from: the: foil inds 3 
which mufiibe:confidercthas having: beemonce the moft 
numerous family, though their race .is-now extind, 
or reduced to a fewsabfolutely: degenerated indivi. 
duals. 

The moft gratuitous .hypothefis is generally the 
moft difficult to combat. Hence probably it is, 
that nothing has hitherto been alleged againft the 
fuppofition of théfe pelagian fhells exifting in the 
ocean, though it is an opinion generally.rejected, and 
the following obfervations appear to me to prove it 
erroncous. 

The foffil fhells of cornu ammonis are ex. 
tremely thino'and light, while thofe of animals re. 
fiding conttantly at the bottom of the fea are thick 
and ponderous. «Moreover, the: form of the foffil 
fliell indicates, in fome meafure,. the organization of 
the animal whofe manfion it formed. The ivan 
Juffieu proved, as long ago as 1721, that the greatett 
analogy exifts between the cornu ammonis ‘and: the 
nautilus*.: “As itis well known that the nautilus, by 
filling ‘or emptying one part of its thell, . poffeffes the 
faculty of retting at any depth of water, doubtless 
the cornw ammonis:muft have the fame power ; and 
if the ocean be yetfull of them, why are not fome 
difcovered by navigators? Or why are not fome of 
their remains: driven on fhore by the waves ? If they 
exift in fuch ‘abundance, they mutt often be found in 
the ‘nets ‘of fifhermen ; or, at leaft, a few fragments 
wotild adhere .to the lead, when it defcends to a 
great depth.'o Weemay add alfo, that if’ thefe corna 
ammionis never quit the abyfles of the océan, their 


i # "There ‘are; however, foiné very remarkablé differences in 
theitinternal itructure; the partitions of the nautilus have more 
finuofities than thofe of the cornu ammonis; and the latter have 
no fmall holes of communication from one divifion to another. 
French Ebrtors ~~. i ; 


petrifactions 


ri eve few 


foffil kinds; 
sance the moft 
“now extind, 
erated indivi. 


generally the 
robably it is, 
d againft the 
xifting in the 
-rejected,.and 
ne to prove it 


)nis are ex- 
of animals re. 
::fea are thick 
of «the: foffil 
a of 
Phe celebrated 
at the greatett 
onis ‘and: the 
1e nautilus, by 
2° pofieftes the 
re doubtlefs 

power ; and 
are riot fome 
e not fome of 
aves ? ‘If they 
n be found in 
few fragments 
defcends to a 
‘ thefe cornû 
océan, their 


lé : differences in 
utilus have more 
nd the latter have 
ifion to another. 


petrifactions 


CORNU AMMONIS. 337 
petrifactions would never be formed at the fame leve] 
and in the fame beds with other fhells, which only 
inhabit the fhallows. Yet they are found in Nor- 
mandy, Provence, Touraine, and various other places, 
incompany with turbines, buccina, and other fhells, 
common to the fea-fhores, and at all degrees of ele- 
yation from below even the level of the fea to the 
fummits of the higheft mountains. The fame ana- 
logy leads us to believe, that Nature having given 
eyes to the nautilus, would not leave this animal 
deftitute of the organs of vifion ; but of what utility 
would they be to a creature bound a prifoner in the 
caverns of the ocean, where rays of light can never 
penetrate. 

The extinélion of the ancient race of thefe ani- 
mals is, therefore, a fact, which no rational hypo- 
thefis can overturn; and conftitutes, indifputably, the 
moft extraordinary circumftance. in the hiftory of ani- 
mals inhabiting the fea. Of this fact the truth will 
remain unfhaken, even by the difcovery of a few liv- 
ing ammonites ;- for thefe do not refemble the petri- 
fied fpecies hitherto known, are very rare, and muft 
by no means be confidered as the reprefentatives of 
the ammonites, which were fo various in their fpe- 
cies, and fo numerous, as to exceed, perhaps, the 
whole collective race of all the other teftaceous fith 
that peopled the ancient ocean. 

Wallerius, fpeaking of the cornua ammonis, ranks 
them with thofe fhells which have feparate divifions, 
communicating by a pipe. It is certain, however, 
there are fome cornua ammonis not divided into fe- 
parate compartments. It is well known that authors 
have confidered them as nautili, and that in both fpe- 
cies there are fhells both with and without divi- 
fions. Each fpecies muft be fippofed to have its 
varieties, as it fhould appear at leaft from the pe- 
trifations. 

The name of cornu ammonis belongs to every uni- 
Vou. II. Z valve 


338 OBSERVATIONS, ÉŸc. 


valve fhell, which is rolled up intoitfelfon a horizontal 
plane dividing it into two parts, and formed of feve- 
ral united fpirals, vifible externally, and bearing to 
each other a certain proportion. | 

The volutes of Saint Hubert are not cornua am. 
monis, fince their fpirals are disjoined. 

The tubuli marini cannot be cornua ammonis, 
becaufe their fpirals are not in one-horizontal plane 
dividing the fhell into two equal parts; for on exa- | 
mination it will be found, that the fpirals, though 
prominent above are flattened below at their bafe, 

The planorbes, which: nearly refemble the cornua 
ammionis whofe fhells are not divided into cells, dif. 
fer from them in their firft fpire, the breadth of which 
is much fmaller in proportion to the reft of the thell. 
Some of thefe refemble in their external appearance 
the cornu ammonis with cells, and are very diffe- 
rent from the other fort. \ 

The nautili differ from the ammonites in their 
fpires being internal. ‘They enter the fhell after the 
firft circumvolution, while the fpires of the cornua 
ammonis are all external. 

I think it neceffary to determine what I would un- 
derftand by a cornu ammonis, previous to the fol- 
lowing defcription of one I found in the courfe 
of my voyage. 

The form of it is almoft orbicular, the longitudinal 
diameter being to the lateral as 3 lines to 2 lines 3. 
Fhe firft fpire is larger than the others, and occupies 
nearly half the longitudinal diameter. The fummit 
is fituated at two thirds of this length ; and it is ter- 
minated, on the right fide, bya very {mall knob, vifible 
with a glafs; in which refpect it differs from that of 
Rimini, which was, befides, microfcopic and camerat- 
ed, whereas this has no internal divifion of cells. The 
convolutions of the fpires are four in number, befides 
one incomplete. Thefe fpires are equally convex on 
both fides, and are revolved on a plane dividing hi 

€ 


n a horizontal 
rmed of feve- 
id bearing to 


t cornua am- 


ua ammonis, 
rizontal plane 
; for on exa- 
pirals, though 
their bafe. 

le the cornua 
into cells, dif: 
adth of which 
ft of the fhell. 
al appearance 
re very diffe- 

\ 

mites in their 
fhell after the 
of the cornua 


at I would un- 
us to the fol- 
in the courfe 


ne longitudinal 
to 2 lines 3. 
and occupies 
The fummit 
and it is ter- 
] knob, vifible 
s from that of 
and camerat- 
of cells. The 
mber, befides 
lly convex on 
+ dividing the 
fhell 


SEA OTTER SKINS. 339 


{hell into two equal parts. On each fide isa kind of 
bofs, formed by the augmentation of the perpendicu- 
lar fpires, as their diftance from the fummit increafes. 
The .furface is fmooth, and the back provided 
with a flat creft, fmooth, brittle, and as thin as pa- 
paper, and forming all round it a kind of folid ruff. 
It is nearly half a line in length, runs along the back 
of the fpires, ferves to join them together, and is in- 
fead of a columella. The orifice of the fhell is almoft 
triangular; the fides are prolonged in form of lips, 
and are rounded at their edges. 

The cornua ammonis I have often formed in the 
ftomach of donitas (fcomber pelamis Linnzi, 170, 2) 
caught in the South-fea between the tropics, where 
we could not {trike ground with a line of above 200 
fathoms. Thefe fhells were covered with a black 
mud of a fchiftous nature. In fize they vary from 
one to four lines in diameter, and are the largeft 
animals of this genus that have hitherto been found 
alive. .The animal being partly digefted, it was im- 
poffible to make any vbfervations upon it, 


Explanation of the Figures. 


Fig. 1. Cornu ammonis of the natural fize, 
2. Form of its mouth. ° 
3 and 4. The fame magnified. 


nD © fe 0 Gee 


MEMOIR ON THE COMMERCE OF SEA-OTTER SKINS, 


Ede. De. 


IT was my duty néver to lofe fight of the aim of 
Government, in fitting out the Bouffole and Aftrolabe 
ata very great experice, which was not limited to 
the improvement of geography; and that it was the 
province of the commander of the expedition to in- 
pi: the Miniftry what commercial advantages may 

Z 2 be 


340 ON THE COMMERCE OF 
be derived from the produétions of the different 
countries we have vifited. : : 

The coaft of America, from Mount Saint Elias to 
Monterey, only offers, for the fpeculation of mer. 
chants, furs of all kinds, and particularly fea-otter 
fkins ; for fuch there is.a certain fale at China. This 
fur, fo valuable in Afia, is more common in Ame. 
rica, and more widely difperfed over an extent of 
coäft of 1200 leagues, than cven feals on the coaft 
of Labrador. But however extenfive the empire of 
China may be, it feems impoffible thefe fkins fhould 
- continue to produce fo high a price, when the 
different nations of Europe fhall have introduced 
a competition in the trade. To fpeak metaphori- 
cally, the mine of thefe animals is fo abundant, that 
feveral veffels might in one year make a confiderable 
traffick there, though the privilege of each were con- 
fined to an extent of coaft of about 5 degrees, and 
énding about 30 leagues to the northward of Port 
San Francifco, the laft of the Spanith fettlements. 


Mr. Cox has given very ample details of thé com- 
i 


merce of Ruffia with China, which muft now be 
rated at more than double the amount, according to 
his table; and I have no doubt the Ruffian factors 
are extending their trade at this moment to Cook's 
River, and will {oon carry it as far as Prince Wil- 
liam’s Sound *. To the political views of my expe- 
dition, it was of confiderable importance to know 
‘with equal precifion what fettlements the Spaniards 
have to the fouthward. Thefe two nations extend 
their commerce in thefe articles from Kamtfchatka 
to California; but, at the time of my departure, it 
was unknown in France what climates produce thefe 
animals in the greateft numbers, what the limits of 
the Spanith fettlements are, and what fhare that 


. * At Kamtfchatka, I thall endearanr to afcertain the truth. of 
this conjecture. 


country 


F the different 


: Saint Elias to 
lation of mer. 
ularly fea-otter 
at China. This 
mon in Ame- 
r an extent of 
Is on the coaft 
the empire of 
fe fkins fhould 
ice, when the 
ve introduced 
ak metaphori- 
abundant, that 
a confiderable 
each wére con- 
| degrees, and 
hward of Port 
fh fettlements. 
s of the com- 
muft now be 
t, according to 
Ruffian factors 
ent to Cook’s 
s Prince Wil- 
vs of my expe- 
ance to know 
the Spaniards 
nations extend 
1 Kamtfchatka 
y departure, it 
; produce thefe 
, the limits of 
hat fhare that 


ertain the truth. of 


country 


SEA OTTER SKYNS. 34) 
country wel to take in the fur trade with China. 
It was expected, perhaps, that the natural indolence 
of Spain would long afford room for the fpirit and 
Lure of other nations; and certainly the plan 
of the Viceroy of Mexico, of referving the exclufive 
privilege of this cominerce for the Government, is 
well adapted to realize thefe hopes. 

I have no other means of acquiring the neceflary 
information than by going to Monterey; for it 18 
well known the Spaniards have not @r a long time 
publifhed any thing, it being the policy of their Go- 
vernment to preferve the greateit fecrecy in all their 
concerns with America, Had not the addrefs of the 
Englifh, in latter times, procured and printed a copy 
of the journal of a pilot named Maurillo, we fhould 
have been ignorant, even to this day, of the miffions 
at Monterey. This journal, however, being in a mane . 
ner nothing more than the track of a {mall corvette 
from the port of Sen Blas to that of Los Remedios in 
579 N. lat. affords us no other information; and the 
Spaniards, at that time, fcarcely imagined thefe furs 
more valuable than rabbit-fkins. The pilot Mau- 
rillo, therefore, does not mention even the cxiftence 
of this amphibious animal, which, probably, he con- 
founded with the feal. But his countrymen are 
now better informed, and have learned that there is 
avery great confumption of them in the northern 
provinces of China, where they form the winter drefs 
of all mandarines of the firft rank, and every other 
perfon of wealth in the empire; and are, perhaps, to 
them the moft eminently defirable article of laxury ; 
becaufe they not only pleafe the cye by their delicate 
glofs and finenefs, but are alfo modcrately warm, 
and, therefore, better adapted than any other furs for 
the purpofe of cloathing, 

In this place, I fhall not repeat the various details * 


* They are, however, abfolutely neceflary, to underitand thi 


memoir. 
| Z 3 inferted 


342 ON THE COMMERCE OF 


inferted in my narrative, which it appears to me, 
may be publifhed without inconvenience, but fhall 
proceed to enquire, whether it would be advan. 
tageous to France to eftablifh a factory at Port des 
Français, of which as wc have taken pofleffion, and 
to which no other nation can controvert our claim; 
or whether fhe ought to leave that trade, to be 
parties by private adyenturers ; or, laftly, prohibit 

er merchants from all fpeculation in this branch of 
commerce, 

As this memoir is written during my pañäge from 
Monterey to China, I have not yet obtained all the 
. information on the fubjeét neceflary. for completely 

refolving thefe queftions, which depend greatly on 
the demand for thefe fkins at China, and particularly 
on the fall in their value, neceffarily enfuing from 
the introduction of 10,000 fea otter fkins, which the 
Prefidio of Monterey alone would annually fupply, 
while their new fettlements to the northward of Port 
des Français might produce a fill greater quan. 
tity. 

We purchafed at Port des Français about a thou- 
fand otter fkins; a quantity fufficient to determine 
with precifion their value in China. Scarcely any of 
thefe fkins are, however, entire, becaufe the northern 
Indians, not having a certain market for them, make 
them up into fhirts, coverlets, and other articles of 
cloathing, and fold them to us in pieces, dirty, ftink- 
ing, torn, and in fhort, fuch as, at prefent, cannot 
be expected to produce a very high price in China; 
though in Captain Cook’s third voyage it is faid, that 
every piece of this fkin was readily fold. Had we an 
agent on the north-weft coaft of America, or even a 
regular commerce through veflels trading there every 
year, the Indians would foon bring to market only 
the entire fkins, efpecially if our traders refufed to 
accept any that had been made up for drefles. 

It would have been extremely eafy to have pre 

| cure 


appears to me, 
ence, but {hall 
puld be advan. 
ory at Port des 
poffeffion, and 
ert our claim ; 
at trade, to be 
laftly, prohibit 
1 this branch of 


y paffage from 
bbtaincd all the 
for completely 
pend greatly on 
and particularly 
y enfuing from 
| ia rich the 
nnually fupply, 
rthward of hs 

greater quan. 


s about a thou- 
t to determine 
Scarcely any of 
ife the northern 
for them, make 
ther articles of 
es, dirty, ftink- 
prefent, cannot 
ice in China; 
¢ it is faid, that 
Id. Had we an 
erica, Or even a 
ling there every 
to market only 
ders refufed to 
dreffes. 
7 to have pro- 
cured 


SEA OTTER SKINS. 343 


cured five or fix thoufand fkins, by putting into five 
or. fix other bays, only from Port des Français to that 
of Los Remedios, and employing the whole feafon in 
that trade ; but convinced that it is the duty of veffels 
belonging to the State to protect and encourage com- 
merce, but not to carry on trade themfelves, I en- 
tirely rejected the idea. The quantity we have was 
obtained at Port des Français in the {pace of eight or 
ten days. They are more than fufficient for our 


purpofe, and I would not have facrificed the leaft 


object of utility for a thoufand fkins more; though 
a certain number. were neceflary to afcertain their 
value, and inform the commercial intereft what may 
be expected from fuch fpeculations *. 

[have reflected much on the plan of eftablifhing 
a factory at Port des Français, or its environs, and 
find many obftacles to it, arifing not only from its 
immenfe diftance from Europe, but alfo from the 
uncertainty of the returns of fuch a trade with China, 


when Spaniards, Ruffians, Englith, and French, fhall 


become competitors there on the fale of fkins, which 
it would be fo eafy to procure on any part of this 
coaft, It cannot be doubted alfo, but our Eaft India 
Company would object to the privilege neceffary to 
the adventurers before they can trade with China. 


* The money arifing from the fale will be divided among the 
failors, as compenfation for the dangers they have incurred, and 
the fatigues they have undergone. With the greateft fatisfaétion I 
find all the officers and paflengers of opinion with me, that 
to mingle any views of intereft with the public fpirited motives 
ee this voyage was undertaken, would be a fpecies of fa- 
‘crilege. me 

I have appointed M. Dufrefne fupercargo for the crew; and 
his accounts, the divifion we have made, and the receipt of each 
individual fhall be laid before the Minifter. Should the fum they 
produce be confiderable, I doubt not, that added to the amount of 
each man’s pay, it will induce moft of them to marry; and 
thus their circumftances being made eafy for their rank in life, 
many increafing families will be formed, which may, hereafter be- 
come of great fervice to the navy. | 


ZA The 


344 ON THE COMMERCE or 

The equipment too would be fo expétfive, that the 
mere trade in futs would not be fufficient to indeni- 
a a company like that uf Hudfon’s-Bay, for the 
difburfements of its factory and fhips, fhould they bé 
obliged to return atl to Europe ; and it would be 
abfolutely neceflary that the fan India Company 
fhould be bound, not only to freight them back, at 
a price to be fixed in Europe, but alfo to take the 
produce of their furs at intereft, and employ it in the 
purchafe of their cargoes. | 

But thefe regulations are fubjeét to great inconve- 
nicnces, and the two companies and their fervants 
would be unavoidably engaged in inceflant difputes, 
Nor would they fucceed better were both trades 
united; for then one of them muft be inactive, and 
that one would moft certainly be the fur-trade. Ex- 
clufive privileges always deftroy commerce, \as large 
Hine choak the fhrubs that grow beneath their 

ade. 

Though the Ruffians are eftablifhed to the north- 
ward and the Spaniards to the fouthward, many years 
will elapfebefore thefe nations méet,and there will long 
remain intermediate points which other nations might 
occupy without exciting the jealoufy of any pcople, 
if governments were not always more reftlefs and 
jealous than their fubjects. Spain. would doubtlefs 
confider it as an ufurpation for the French to occupy 
a few acres of land, which the former might in vain 
employ whole centuries in fearching for, if the latitude 
and longitude of the place were concealed. Bat, I 
confefs, the advantages do not appear to me fuffi- 
cient to juftify hazarding the flighteft altercation be- 
tween the Courts of Verfailles and Madrid; and even 
granting the acquiefcence of the latter.in fuch a fct- 
tlement, it would be neceffary to makc a trial of this 
commerce by private adventurers, in order to afcer- 
tain whether it refts on a firm: bafis in China. It 
would not yct be the time for conflituting an exclufive 

company ; 


ive, that the 
ént to indem- 
Bay, for the 
nould they bt 
dit would be 
dia Company 
them back, at 
fo to take the 
iploy it in the 


Freat inconve- 
their fervants 
flant difputes, 
+ both trades 
inactive, and 
r-trade. Ex- 
ercé, \as large 
bencath their 


to the north- 
d, many years 
here will long 
nations might 
of any pcople, 
e refileis and 
puld doubtlefs 
ch to occupy 
might in vain 
if the latitude 


to me fufi- 
Altercation be- 
rid; and even 
in fuch a fet- 
a trial of this 
rder to afcer- 
in China. It 
g an exclufive 
COINpany ; 


aled. Bat, I 


SEA OTTER SKINS. 34$ 
company 3 a privilege fhould métely be granted to 
fome Commercial town for three expeditions of two 
{hips every year, which fhould fail at the fame feafon. 
It would then be poffible news of the firft expedition 
may arrive when the laft was getting under’ fail. 
Thefe equipments would be expenfive, hecaufe the 
fhips muft be well built, and fitted out with an ample 
flore of fails, cables, and cordage of precy kind, and 
commanded by experienced feamen. The length 
and difficulties of this voyage could not be compared 
with any other; and therefore no Vvefféls of lefs than 
four or five hundred tons burthen ought to encoun- : 
ter the feas of Cape Horn and North America. In 
firictnefs, they might, perhaps, be rather lefs, were 
their fole obje@ to procure furs in exchange for the 
articles of barter they would carry out: But it thould 
be remarked, that the expence of freighting a veficl 
of 300 tons is very little lefs than that employed in 
one of 500, fince each would require aii excellent 
commander, and an equal number of officers. The 
only difference would, thetefore, confift in {even or 
eight failors more or lefs; and as it has been fug- 
gelted, it will be neceflary to require of the Eaft- 
India Company to freight them home on its own 
account ; it will then make a confiderable difference 
to the owners to have five hundred tons of freight 
inftead of three hundred. . 

To fum up the various heads of this paper, we 
ought not yet in my opinion to think of eftablifhing a 
factory, and the prefent is not even the time to form 
an exclufive company for this trade. Still lefs ought it 
to be entrufted to the Eaft India Company ; for they 
would either wholly neglect it, or conduct it very ill; 
and thus would difguft the government with the 
fcheme. But it would be moft confiftent with wif- 
dom, to engage one of our commercial towns to 
make a trial of three voyages, fecuring them a freight 
from China, as I have already mentioned. Govern- 
ment 


346 ON THE COMMERCE OF 


ment may-be affured, that fuch fhips would find à 
great quantity of fea otter fkins, between Nootka 
Sound and Baie des Frangais; but they fhould only 
run into very open bays, whence it would be eafy tn 
get out, becaufe by putting into a greater number 
of places, their trade would be more abundant. 

he fkins procured the firft year will be dirty and 
injured, but in fucceeding years, they will probably 
be obtained in better condition, 

Iron in bars of four fingers broad, and fix or eight 
lines thick, common iron hatches, and large blue or 
red beads would be the beft articles of barter; and a 
cargo of this kind would incur but a very fmall ex- 
pence in the outfit *. 

The chart I have fent to the minifter of marine, 
would be of fervice to them. It is fo exact, that 
few charts that have been conftructed in hafte while 
under fail, rynning along the coaft, will bear a compa- 
rifon with it. . The currents feem to be the principal 
danger of this voyage, and it will be neceflary to avoid 
the narrow harbours, where they are: very rapid. 
With this precaution, I have no doubt, thofe who con- 
duct the barter will procure a great quantity of fkins, 
particularly if they avoid all quarrels with the na- 
tives, and never attempt to reclaim the articles they 
may ftcal, which cannot be of any great import- 
ance. 

This is all the information I have hitherto been 
able to obtain concerning this commerce. The 
whole of my reafoning is founded on my knowledge 
of America alone, for I am not yet acquainted with 
the market of China. Of this I fhall be better in- 
formed at my departure from Macao, and {hall be 


* It would be proper to fend on board a few barrels of coals, 
a forge, and a fmith, to work the bar iron into any fhape the In- 


dians may déefire. 


able 


vould find a 
een Nootka 
fhould only 
id be eafy to 
ater number 
ndant. 

be dirty and 
All probably 


| fix or eight 
large blue or 
arter ; anda 
ery fmall ex- 


r of marine, 
» exact, that 
n hafte while 
car a Compa- 
the principal 
flary to avoid 
‘very rapid. 
ofe who con- 
tity of fkins, 
with the na- 
articles they 
reat import. 


itherto been 
erce. The 
y knowledge 
uainted with 
be better in- 
and fhall be 


barrels of coals, 
y fhape the In- 


able 


SEA OTTER SKINS, 347 
able to obtain every inftruétion neceffary, by the 
time I leaye Kamtichatka *. 


(Signed) : LA PéRovssz, 


At fea, during the run from Monterey to Macao, 
December, 1786. 


a ee NS : Ed 


Eftimate of the Otter and Beaver Skins, purchafed at 
Port des Français, on the N. W. Coaft of America, 
by the Bouffole and Aftrolabe frigates, 


OTTERS. 


The otter fkins were divided into three lots, viz. 
Fars in fkins. 
Furs on woollen cloth, or ponchos. 
And paffe-poils, or very narrow ftrips. 


The firft lot was divided into three qualities : 


1ft, Virgin fkins, and thofe of which the hair is 
clean, and not mixed. 

adly, Thofe which area little damaged, but yet 
fine, 

3dly, Thofe of which the hair is mixed and dirty, 
and which are only fit to be fulled, and made into 


* The particulars which Captain Cook has given us concerning 
the fur trade, and the enormous profit he acquired in his trial of 
it, muft neceffarily have excited the cupidity of fhip owners and 
merchants. But it was eafy to furefee, that a competitor in the 
market would very greatly reduce their value in China, while, on 
the other hand, the favages would increafe their demands, when 
Europeans fhould fucceffively arrive in their countries, and endea- 
vour to obtain a decided preference in the purchafe. 

Since Cook’s laft voyage, the Englifh have made feveral expedi- 
tions to the north-weft coaft of America ; the accounts of which 
‘save been publifhed. Thofe of our readers who may defire to ob- 
tas further information upon the fubjeét, may read Meares's voy- 
age, ind that of Dixon, comparing them with what is faid by la 
Pérôufe, and by Cook in his third voyage —French Editor. 


felts 


348 ON THE COMMERCE OF 


felts by the hatter. It will be ufeful to bring a 
great quantity of thefe home to France, in order to 
make deeerel experiments upon them. 

Thefe furs, whether in fkins, or on woollen cloth, 
and thofe of the beaver, have been all reduced to 
fquare feet, and valued, piece by piece, according to 
their different qualities and clafles. 

The paff-poils were forted according to their de- 
frees of finencfs and colour, and valued very low, 
according to the price of minevers in France. 

The furs of the firft quality were divided into 11 
feétions, and then valued at different prices, accord- 
ing to their fizes. 

The articles, forming each fubdivifion, have been 
eftimated at three prices, according to the accounts 
I have read and extracted from Coxe’s journal of the 
Ruffian difcoveries, Capt. Cook’s voyages, and what 
I learned myfelf at Monterey. 

The firft price is the loweft, at which, according 
to thefe obfervations, I think the fkins can be fold. 

The fecond isthe medium price, according to the 
acpannte the Spaniards at Monterey gave us of their 
ales. 

The third is eftimated by the account of Capt. 


ook, 

The firft fubdivifion, from the fmalleft fize, to 
that of two feet inclufively, have been rated, 

For the loweft price, at five piaftres per fquare 
foot, making 30 piaftres for an entire fkin of fix 
fquare feet, or three feet by two, which is one of 
the largeft fizes. 

For the Monterey price, at feven piaftres and a 
half, making 45 piaftres the entire fkin. 

For the price ftated by Cook, at 10 piaftres, mak- 
ing 60 piaftres the fkin. This latter price appears 
too high, and that which we muft demand, thovgh 
we take lefs. | Re 

1 LEA É 11S 


to bring a 
‘in Order to 


olen cloth, 
reduced to 
according to 


to their de- 
d very low, 
ince. 

ded into 11 
ces, accord- 


, have been 
he accounts 
urnal of the 
8, and what 


1, According 
an be fold. 

rding to the 
2 us of their 


nt of Capt. 


left. fize, to 

ted, 

Fa fquare 
in of fix 

h is one of 


ftres and a 
fires, mak- 
rice appears 


ind, thorgh 
This 


SEA OTTER SKINS, 349 

This method has been purfued relative to all the 
other fections, and generally for each different article 
of this kind. 


BEAVERS, 


It will be feen, from the ftatement of the furs 
exported by the Englifh from Hudfon’s: Bay to 
Peterfburgh, and by the Ruffians. to Kiatcha, that 
the beaver of Hudfon’s Bay is worth, at Kiatcha, 
from feven to 20 roubles per fkin, (the rouble being 
worth four livres, 10 fous of French money). This 
loweft price of feven roubles makes, therefore, 91 
livres 10 fous. 

I have valued the beaver fkins according to their 
common fize of 20 by 18 inches, or two and a half 
fquare feet, at. 

Half a piaftre for the loweft price per fquare foot, 
gives fix or feven livres the fkin : 

One piaftre for the fecond price, making 13 or 
14 livres the fkin : | 

Two piaftres for the third price, making from:26 
to 30 livres the fkin. 

- From thefe data, we derive the following calcu- 
lations: 3231 furs, of all fizes.and qualities, which 
we purchafed, are eftimated at the loweft at 41,063 
piaftres 1-8th, or 221,740 livres, 17 fous, 6 deniers, 
French money. At the mean price of Monterey; 
63,586 piaftres $, or 343,365 livres, 15 fous, French 
money. And laftly, at Capt. Cook’s price, 84,151 
piaftres, or. 454,415 livres, 8 fous, French money. 


EXTRACTS 


850 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


EXTRACTS: 


From the Corre/pondence of Meff. de la Péroufe de 
Langle, and Lamanon with the Minifter of Marine. 


FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE. 


Six, Monterey, 14th Sept. 1786. 


OUR fhips have been received by the Spaniards 
like thofe of their own nation, and there is no poffi- 
ble affiftance which they have not been lavifh in pro- 
viding for us. ‘The clergy at the head of the mif- 
fions have fent us vaft quantities of every kind 
of provifion, and, in return, I have prefented them 
with a number of little articles for the Indians, 
which were put on board at Breft for that purpofe, 
and will be to them of the greateft utility. 

You are already informed that Monterey is nat pro- 


perly a colony, but only a poft of about twenty. 


Spaniards, maintained by the king of Spain, for the 
protection of the miffionaries, who labour with the 
greateft furcefs in the converfion of the favages; 
a fyftem that will never deferve to be reproached for 
eruelties like thofe which ftained the laurels of Co- 
lumbus, and difgraced the reign of Ifabella and Fer- 
dinand. 

Our bifcuit is a little damaged, but our corn, flour, 
wine, &c. have kept fo well, as to exceed our moft 
fanguine hopes, and have contributed not a little to 
preferve our crews in good health. Our fhips are in 
the beft condition, but are very bad failers. 


FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 


SIR, Monterey, Sept. 19, 1786. 


MY difpatches having to traverfe America-by land, 
and pafs through the city of Mexico, I dare not fend 
you by this conveyance cither the details of our 

voyage, 


+ PS pet Lit 1 ut a 


a Péroufe de 
of Marine. 


Sept. 1786. 

he Spaniards 
re is no poffi- 
lavifh in pro- 
of the mif- 
f every kind 
efented them 
the Indians, 
that purpofe, 
a is not pro- 


bout twenty, 


Spain, for the 
our with the 
the favages ; 
proached for 
urels of Co- 
ella and Fer- 


hr corn, flour, 
eed our moft 


nr fhips are in 
prs. 


. 19, 1786. 
erica-by land, 
are not fend 
etails of our 
voyage, 


ot a little to | 


M. DE LA PEROUSE: 351 


voyage, the charts we have conftruéted, or the nume- 
rous and accurate obfervations we have colleéted, to 
enable us to give you the moft fatisfaétory accounts 
of the traffick for fins, and the part which the Spa- 
niards defign taking in it. 

Their eyes are ever turned to this important brancli 
of commerce, and the King has referved to himfelf 
the right of purchafe in the prefdios of California. 
The moft northern fettlement of the Spanith factories 
furnifhes annually 10,000 otter fkins; and fhould 
thefe continue to find an advantageous market at 
China, it will be eafy for Spain to procure even 
50,000, and thus deftroy the commerce of the Ruf- 
fians with China. 

They now begin to find fea otters on the weft 
coaft of California, as low as 28° N. lat. in equal 
abundance, but of an inferior quality to thofe fur- 
ther to the northward. 

On the coaft of America we have made difcoveries 
that efcaped former navigators, and taken pofleffion 
of a port well adapted for the eftablifhment of a fac- 
tory, and perfectly defenfible by only 100 men againft 
very confiderable forces. 

Otters are fo plentiful there, that in a fortnight we 
collected a thoufand fkins. Thefe will be fold at 
China for the benefit of the failors, for our officers 
and paffengers look for glory alone as the reward of 
the fatigues and dangers of fuch a voyage. 

That part of the coaft lying between 50° and 55° 
of north lat. which was not feen by Cook, will alfo 
form a very interefting part of our narrative. We 
have indeed made important difcoveries, but the ac- 
counts of them cannot be detailed in cyphers, and 
you will therefore receive them from China by a 
French fhip, together with the memoirs relative to the 
political and fecret objects of my inftruétions con- 
cerning the commerce that might be carried on upon 
the coaft of America. 

FROM 


CORRESPONDENCE or 


FROM. M. DE LA RÉROUSE. 
Str, Monterey, 19th Sept. 1786. 


I HAVE already had the honour to inform you, 
that firictly following my inflructions, | have deemed 
it neceflary to make ufe of the permiffion given me 
to change my plan, and begin with the north-weft 
coat of America. I may venture to fay my opera- 
tions have been atteaded with the completeft fuccefs. 
In the courfe of 14 months we have doubled Cape 
Horn, and run to the extremity of America as far as 
Mount St. Elias; we have explored this coaft with 
the greateft care, and arrived at Monterey the 15th 
of September. The orders of the King of Spain had 
reached this place before us, and it would be impof- 
fible, even in our own colonies, to meet with a better 
reception. | 

_ L'ought alfo to inform you, that we have put into 
feveral iflands of the South-fea which had excited 
curiofity, and have run on the parallel of the Sand- 
wich Iflands, 500 leagues from eaft to weft, for the 
purpofe of elucidating feveral important. points of ge- 
ography. J anchored only 24 hours at the ifland of 
Mowee, and pañlèd through a new channel which the 
Englith had no opportunity of vifiting. 

I fhall be at Kamtfchatka carly in the month of 
Auguft, and at the Aleutian Iflands about the end 
of the fame month, It will be proper to defer ex- 
ploring thefe iflands till after I have been at Kamtf- 
chatka, that I may know what the Rufñlians have left 
undone, and thus be the better able to complete and 
add fomething to their difcoveries. 

From the Aleutian Iflands I fhall fail without lof- 
ing a moment, for the fouthern bemifphere, to exc- 
cute the orders I have received. No voyage, I may 
venture to fay, was.ever undertaken on fo vait a 
plan. We have already paficd a full year .under fail, 


and 


To Aa... 45 


O0 = + Dm = = 


h Sept. 1786. 


inform you, 
i have deemed 
on given me 
he north-weft 
fay my opera- 
pleteft fuccefs. 
doubled Cape 
crica as far as 
his coaft with 
erey the 15th 
y of Spain had 
uld be impof- 
i with a better 
| 

have put into 
h had excited 
| of the Sand- 
weft, for the 
t points of ge- 
i the ifland of 
panel which the 


the month of 
about the end 
x to defer ex- 
een at Kamtf- 
flians have left 
» complete and 


il without lof- 
fphere, to exe- 
voyage, I may 
à on fo vatt a 
ear .under fail, 
and 


M. DE LA PEROUSE. 253 


and yet, during our fhort intervals of ftaying in port, 
we have made very novel and interefting difcoverics. 
You will learn with pleafure that to this hour not a 
drop of Indian blood has been fpilt, nor one man fick 
on board the Bouffole: and a fervant whom the Aftro- 
labe has loft, died of a confumption, which he could 
not have furvived to this time even in France. We 
fhould be of all navigators the happieft but for one 
extreme misfortune we have met with. That difaf- 
ter I fhall fpare myfelf the pain of again relating 
here, and intreat you to receive with kindnefs the 
extract from my journal which I fend you; requeft- 
ing at the fame time that a copy of it may be tranf- 
mitted to the families of the officers who have fo un- 
fortunately perifhed. On that fatal occafion I loft 
the only relation I had in the navy. Ofall who have 
failed with me, this young man feemed to poflefs the 
greateft qualifications for his profeffion. He held in 
my bofom the place of a fon, and never in my life 
did I experience an affliction equal to his lofs. Mefr. 
de la Bord, de Pierrevert, and de Flaflan, were alfo 
officers of great merit. 

This difafter obliged me to make ufe of the 
remaining commiffion of Xeutenant de frégate, in 
favour of M. de Broudou, my wife’s brother, who 
embarked as a volunteer, and whofe conduct has 
given me great fatisfaction. I have dated the com- 
miffion the firft of Auguft, 1786. I have alfo ap- 
pointed M. Darbaud, a young man of very diftin- 
guifhed talents, to act as en/eigne. 

All the officers, men of fcience, and artifts, enjo 
the moft perfect health, and perform their duty with 
the greateft punctuality. 


CORRESPONDENCE OF 


FROM M. DE LANGLE. 


Sir, Monterey, Sept. 22, 1786. 
I CAN add nothing to the account which M. de 


la Péroufe will give you of our voyage, becaufe, fince 
our departure from Breft, I have not loft fight of his 
fhip for a fingle moment. Deftined to participate his 
fate, I have fhared his misfortunes. Through excefs 
of courage and humanity, Mefirs. La Borde, Mar. 
chainville, Boutervilliers and Flaffan perifhed on the 
13th July, 1786—ending their career of life at 
the very moment when they were qualified to per- 
form the moft difiinguifhed fervices. The two for- 
mer in particular were animated with that zeal, per- 
feverance, and fpirit of refearch fo neceflary in the 
conduét of an expedition like ours, and yet wanted 
not the prefence of mind and talent calculated to ex- 
tricate them from fituations of the greateft difficulty 
and cmbarraflment. Alas! In thefe I have loft two 
friends whofe advice has often been ferviceable to me. 
Misfortune, however, has not in the leaft relaxed the 
zeal of the five remaining officers, who, on the con- 
trary, have never been ditcouraged by the laborious 
nature of their fervice, ever more difficult in harbour 
than at fea. The good unccrftanding that reigns 
among them, the lively interctt they take in the fuc- 
cefs of our voyage, are the fureft protection of my 
fhip; and the laudable fpirit of curiofity which ani- 
mates their bofom, prevents them from befowing 
one thought of premature anxicty on their return to 
France. 

M. de Monti is an excellent feaman, and a mode 
of prudence, of forefight and of firmnefs. 

M. de Vanjuas adds to theie qualifications a ftore 
of knowledge, and an underfianding by no means 
common. 

M. Daigremont, who has acquired great experi- 
encc 


Sept. 22, 1766. 
t which M. de 


2, becaufe, fince 
loft fight of his 
o participate his 
Through excefs 
a Borde, Mar- 
perifhed on the 
reer of life at 
ualified to per- 
The two for- 

1 that zeal, per- 
neceffary in the 
and yet wanted 

calculated to ex- 
reateft difficulty 
. I have loft two 
rviceable to me. 
leaft relaxed the 
‘ho, on the con- 
by the laborious 
icult in harbour 
ling that reigns 
take in the fuc- 

protection of my 
iofity which ani- 
from befiowing 

1 their return to 


n, and a mode 
ne{s. 

fications a ftore 
gœ by no mean 


sd great experl- 
ence 


M, DE LANGLE. 255 


ence in naval affairs, is courageous and enterprifing. 
He fully anfwers the expectations generally formed of 
a lively and diffipated youth. He is approaching 
to maturity, which will foon render him capable of. 
performing .diftinguifhed fervices, for he pofflefies 
judgment and refolution. 

M. de Blondela, a very patient, prudent, and in- 
duftrious officer, is extremely well acquainted with 
his profeffion. He employs his leifure time in con- 
ftructing charts, and making very curious and pleaf- 
ing defigns. M. de la Péroufe having appointed him 
on the 13th July, to fill the place of capitaine de 
brilot, 1 hope you will be pleafed to promote him 
to that rank, which he fo well deferves. 

M. de Laurifton, whom M. de la Péroufe has pro- 
moted to the rank of en/eigne, is a perfon of diftin- 
guifhed merit, has acquired a great knowledge of 
fcamanfhip, and poflefles fuch indefatigable zcal for 
aftronomical obfervations, that I rely implicitly on 
him for every thing relating to that branch He our 
duty. Equally inquifitive and ardent for difcovery 
with his companions, he is no lefs indifferent than 
them to his return to France. 

I have alfo the greateft praife to beftow on the 
friendly affiftance of M. de Lefleps, M. de la Marti- 
nière, Father Receveur, and M. Dufrefne. 

The lofs of four of the beft marines, and three ex- 
cellent failors of my crew, has not produced any dif- 
couragement among thereft; and confequently, after 
the difafter of the 13th July, I promifed them a gra- 
tuity of two months’ pay. 

François Lamare, my boatfwain, is a man of great 
merit, Should he continue to perfevere in his pre- 
fent good conduct, I fhall give him, in the courfe 
of the voyage, the warrant of fubfiftence (brevet d'en- 
tretenu) which I have received for him. 

My boatfwain certainly deferves this reward; but 
finding it would probably excite jealoufy, I have 

Aa2 thought 


256 CORRESPONDENCE UF 


thought it necefläry to promife Mathurin Léon, my 
mafter, Robert-Marie le Gal, my chicf carpenter, 
and Jean-François Paul, my chief caulker, moft pref- 
fingly to folicit from you permiffion to fix the date 
of their fubfiftence. And I muft beg you to acce- 
lerate that- of Jean Groffet, who, though younger 
than them, poffeffes no lefs capacity and intelli- 
gence. To thefe promifes I am indebted perhaps for 
the good underftanding that reigns on board my fhip; 
and to the good example of thefe men may be attri- 
buted the gaiety and willingnefs that prevails among 
the crew. 

Gaulin, capitaine d'armes, who performs the duty of 
gunner, alfo deferves to be diftinguifhed ; but the 
means I poflefs of augmenting his pay, which at pre- 
fent is very moderate, will be a fufficient recom- 
pence. 

The rate of the time-keeper, No. 18, has been af- 
tonifhingly regular, and, in confequence, I believe 
the longitude of all the places we have vifited fince 
our departure from La Conception, are determined 
with the moft perfect exactnefs, 

The rate of the time-kceper, No. 27, though not 
fo regular as the former, is yet as much fo as might 
be expected, and what M. Berthoud pronounced it 
would be. In determjning the longitude by the dif- 
tance between the fun and moon, we conftantly pre- 
fer the reflective circles, invented by M. de Borda*, 
to fextants. There has always been fo great a con- 


* This inftrument was originally invented by Tobias Meyer, 
a celebrated aftronomer of Gottingen, but much improved by the 
Chevalier de Borda, and M. J. H. de Magellan. It was ufed by 
the French in their part of the operation for determining the diffe- 
rence between the meridians of Parisand Greenwich. ‘The circu- 
lar rim is divided into 720 degrees, each degree into three equal 
parts, and the divifion carried to minutes by means of the index 
fcale, as in other inftruments. It is intended to abviate the errors 
arifing from the fextant, and particularly the inaccuracies of the di- 
yifion on the limb.— Zran/lator, 

| formity 


rin Léon, my 
icf carpenter, 
cer, moft pref- 
D fix the date 
you to acce- 
pugh younger 
y and intelli- 
ed perhaps for 
board my fhip; 
may be attri- 
revails among 


ms the duty of 
fhed ; but the 

which at pre- 
ficient recom- 


3, has been af- 
nce, I believe 
ve vifited fince 
ire determined 


7, though not 
ch fo as might 
pronounced it 
ude by the dif- 
conftantly pre- 
M. de Borda*, 


O great a con- 


y Tobias Meyer, 
h improved by the 

It was ufed by 
rmining the diffe- 
wich. The circu- 
> into three equal 
means of the index 
obviate the errors 
ccuracies of the di- 


formity 


M. DE LANGLE. 259 


formity in the refults obtained by Mefis. de Vauju- 
as, de Laurifton and myfelf, from thefe inftruments, 
that excepting a few defects in the execution of 
them, I think them the moft perfect of any for deter- 
mining longitudes at fea. Father Receveur and four 
of my mafter’s mates, are alfo well inftructed in 
taking thefe obfervations. 

Among the number of the laft, is one Broffard ; 
I have his inftruction at heart, and do not wifh him 
to be removed from his prefent rank ’till our return 
to the Ifle of France, when I think he will be pre- 
pared to perform the duty of a lieutenant. He is at 
prefent the mafter’s firft mate ; but his underftanding 
and integrity intereft me in his behalf, and make.me 
defirous of raifing him from that humble ftation in 
which he was born, fo much below what his conduct 
and behaviour jufily merit. 

Don Bertrand Jofeph Martinez, who commanded 
the Spanifh frigate La Princefa, from San-Blas, who 
was anchored in the Bay of Monterey before our ar- 
rival here, anticipated our wants with indefatigable 
zeal, and rendered us every fervice in his power. 
He defired me to requeft you torecommend him to the 
minifier of his country; and I fhould be happy to have 


any opportunity of contributing to his promotion. 


I leave this place without having one man fick on 
board ; but the cares of M. Levaux, my furgeon, were 
unable to fave the fervant of M. de Vaujuas, who 
left Breft with a confumption, which terminated his 
days on the 11th of Auguft, 1786. The buck-wheat 
as well as the other fort taken on board at Breft, are 
in perfect prefervation. Some mills we have conftruct- 
ed, and which are worked by two men, when there 
is little wind, fupply each twenty pounds weight 
of meal an hour. To thefe mills we have adapted 
ftones of the kind ufcd by M. de Suffren in his laft 
voyage. I left one of them with the monks at the 
miffion of Monterey. 


Aa3 FROM 


CORRESPONDENCE OF 


FROM M. DE LAMANON. 


SIR, In the Chinefe Seas, \ft Jan. 1787. 


AFTER a voyage of 10,000 leagues, I could with 
to tranfmit you fome account of our difcoveries in 
natural hiftory, and of my own individual labours, 
But the fubjects of which I am to treat, are fo linked 
together, it would be neceflary to fend you whole 
volumes. On my part, nothing has been neglected 
to concur in your defigns. My inquiries have 
reached from the fand, which the lead brings from 
the bottom of the ocean, to every mountain I have 
been able to afcend. I have made collections and 
defcriptions of fifh, fhells, and infects, and of ani- 
mals, to the number of which already known, I 
hope confiderably to add, and thus to increafe our 
knowledge of animated beings. The natural hiftory 
of the fea, of the earth, of the atmofphere, alter- 
nately engage my attention. If we are not the firft 
circumnavigators whofe object has been the improve- 
ment of fcience, at leaft the Englifh will now no lon- 
ger enjoy alone the honourable privilege of thus la- 
bouring for the general good of mankind. It only 
remained for you, Sir, after having concluded an ad- 
vantageous peace with that nation, to make France 
its rival in the glory of being ufeful to all man- 
kind. 

At the commencement of the laft century* our 
neighbours, led by avarice in fearch of gold, dif- 
covered a new world. In the prefent age, France 
has determined, by accurate meafurements, the 
figure and dimenfiotis of the earth. . The Englith 
have deftroyed the chimera of a north-weft paflage, 


* America was difcovered a century before this time. Columbus 
returned from thedifcovery of Hifpaniola, to the Port of-Palos, on 
the 15th March, 1493. The continent of America was difcovered 
foon after that period.— Translator. 

which 


ef =.= f= = 


lon eee bad (D = PM, em 5 1 


an. 1787. 


could wifh 
fcoveries in 
al labours. 
re fo linked 
you whole 
n neglected 
uiries have 
brings from 
tain I have 
lections and 
and of ani- 

known, I 
ncreafe our 
ural hiftory 
here, alter- 
not the firft 
he improve- 
10ow no lon- 
of thus la- 
d. It only 
ided an ad- 
ake France 
o all man- 


ntury* our 
gold, dif- 
ge, France 
nents, the 
he Englith 
eft paflage, 
e. Columbus 


rt of Palos, on 
vas difcovered 


which 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 259 


which they had themfelves before contributed to fup- 
ort, and have commenced that general inveftigation 
of the globe, which, under your aufpices, we are 
now continuing, and future ages will, perhaps, one 
day complete. But the great diftinétion by which 
this voyage will be ever fignalized, and the French 
nation be rendered glorious in the eyes of the prefent 
age, of philofophers, and of all pofterity, is that we 
have vifited nations reputed barbarous, without fhed- 
ding a drop of blood. Our voyage, it is true, is 
not yet finifhed; but I know the fentiments of our 
commander, and how well his views are feconded. 
In a moment of difturbance and danger, occafioned 
by miftake, “ Take your mufquets,” faid he, “ but 
do not charge them ;” and all was pacified by his pru- 
dence. To the merit of a fkilful navigator, and an 
able warrior, M. de la Péroufe adds another much 
nearer to his heart, that of being, in the remoteft 
regions of the globe, a worthy reprefentative of the 
virtues and humanity of his nation. Our voyage 
will prove to the whole world that Frenchmen are 
virtuous, and that Man, in a ftate of nature, is not 
a favage. 

I have extracted from my journals a few memoirs, 
addreffed to the Academy of Sciences ; and I intreat 
you, Sir, to tranfmit them to M. de Condorcet, 
perpetual fecretary to that body, with whom I cor- 
refpond. At the fame time I have taken the liberty 
of enclofing a few letters in your cover, perfuaded 
that by this means they will arrive with greater cer- 
tainty. 


FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE. 
SIR, Macao, January 8, 1787. 


ALL the charts Inow fend you have been con- 


fruéted by M. Bernizet, a young man of great pe 
an 


260 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


and accuracy. Though all the officers have co. 
operated in the aftronomical obfervations, it is but 
juft, they fhould go under the name of M. Dagelet, 
who had the direétion of them. Befides, it is not 
fufficient they deferve, it is neceflary they fhould 
obtain the confidence of navigators; and for that 
purpofe the name of a profeflional aftronomer, and a 
member of the Academy of Sciences, are beft calcu- 
lated to attain that end. 

M. Dagelet, and all the officers, have alfo taken 
bearings ; but M. Bernizet has been chiefly occupied 
in that operation, without interruption. He has re- 
giftered and compared them, rejecting fuch as did 
not form a connection ; and therefore I may con- 
fider all the trigonometrical operations as juftly be- 
longing to this geographer, whofe talents are far 
beyond the opinion entertained of him when he 
came on board. He is perfectly well acquainted 
with every branch of the mathematicks neceflary for 
his profeflion ; paints, draws and takes plans with 
the greateft facility. I am convinced his talents 
would render him extremely ufeful to a general, by 
land, whom he might ferve in character of aid-de- 
camp; he might :lfo be highly ufeful in the navy, 
and it would be a great fatisfaétion to me to procure 
him a place on his return. 

The Aftrolabe has, on all occafions, made the 
fame obfervations, both aftronomical and trigonome- 
trical, as the Bouflole. M. de Langle himfelf ob- 
ferved the diftances and horary angles, with Meflis. 
de Vaujuas and de Laurifton, while he had in his 
etat-major, M. de Blondela, lieutenant de frégate, 
who accurately performed precifely the fame office as 
M. Bernizet. I would fend you the charts of the 
Aftrolabe, did I not find, on comparing them with 
ours, fo great a refemblance that it would be ufelefs; 
but the identity of the refults given by the two fhips, 
is a proof of the accuracy of our operations. a 

ave 


cers have co. 
ions, it is but 
bof M. Dagelet, 
fides, it is not 
y they fhould 
; and for that 
onomer, and a 
are beft calcu- 


ave alfo taken 
liefly occupied 
- He has re- 
g fuch as did 
re I may con- 
s as juftly be- 
alents are far 
im when he 
ll acquainted 
s neccflary for 
es plans with 
d his talents 
) a general, by 
‘ter of aid-de- 
in the navy, 
me to procure 


ns, made the 
id trigonome- 
le himfelf ob- 
with Meflis, 
e had in his 
it de frégate, 
fame office as 
charts of the 
g them with 
Id be ufelefs; 
the two fhips, 
ions. 

I have 


M. DE LA PEROUSE, 261 


I have the honour to fend you two drawings by 
M. de Blondela, not inferior to any of the four by 
M. Duché. The latter reprefents the drefs and ap- 
pearance of different nations with the greateft accu- 
racy. His drawing of Eafter Ifland gives a much 
truer idea of its monuments than the engraving of 
Mr. Hodges; and as they appear to have excited 
great curiofity, I defired M. Bernizet to draw up an 
exact plan of them. I have alfo, in my narrative, 
endeavoured to complete the picture of thefe ifland- 
ers, who will be little vifited by Europeans, becaufe 
their country affords no fupplies for navigators. The 
three other drawings, by M. Duché, are alfo very 
correct, but they are only a fimall fpecimen of his 
ane he has twenty others remaining in his 
port folio. | | 

Young M. Prevoft has drawn all the birds, fifhes, 
and fhells, and [thought it a favour due to his zea- 
lous exertions, to fend you three of his drawings of 
birds. 

The Spanifh charts of the great Pacific Ocean, 
which I have the honour to fend you, and on which 
I have marked my track from Monterey to China, is 
deteftable. I have only added it to the others, to 
prove that the knowledge of this vafi fea has been 
ttationary for thefe two centuries, arifing from the 
galleons from Manilla conftantly purfuing the fame 
track, without deviating from it fo much as: ten 
leagues. 


FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE. 
Sir, Macao, Jun. 3d, 1787. 


I HAVE the honour to fend you the narrative of 
my voyage, complete as far as Macao, with tables of 
our daily courfe. To thefe I have added plans of the 
coafis 


362 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


coafts along which we ranged, of Port des Français, 
of which we have taken pofleflion, of the various 
iflands we have vifited, of fe Necker, and la Baffe des 
Frégates Françaifes, where we experienced fo much 
danger, and I have marked the track of the two fhips 
on the general chart, accompanying this difpatch. It 
pañles over the pretended fituation of feveral iflands, 
which have no exiftence, and necdlefsly occupy 
places on maps, while in the correfponding parts of 
the earth there is no land. 

Our chart of the north-weft coaft of America, is 
certainly the mofl accurate that has yet been con- 
ftruéted, and leaves nothing to be added but minute 
details, which mufi be the work of time, and a long 
courfe of navigation. 

We have furveyed the entrance of the archipelago 
of St. Lazarus, if it can fill retain that name, and 
determined its true pofition in latitude and longi- 
tude, as well as its width from eaft to weft, and 20 
leagues of its depth to the northward. The feafon, 
already far advanced, the fhortnefs of the. days, and 
the ultimate plan of my voyage did not permit me to 
penetrate further into this labyrinth ; for which, two 
or three months would have been requifite, on ac- 
count of the precautions neceflary in fuch furveys, 
the refult of which may gratify curiofity, but can 
never be interefting to navigation, nor of any utility 
to France. I fhould not, however, have hefitated to 
complete this furvey, had I arrived at the entrance of 
the archipelago in the month of June; but at the 
end of Augutt, on the eve of the equinox, with 
nights of twelve hours, and almoft continual fogs, 
the difficulties of the enterprize would doubtlef 
have been infurmountable, and without affording any 
advantage to the fcience of geography, I fhould have 
endangered the future fuccefs of my voyage. 

You will remark, with fatisfaélion, that out of 
nearly 18 months fince our departure, we have pafled 

15 at 


t des Français, 
of the various 
nd la Baffe des 
need fo much 
of the two fhips 
s difpatch. It 
feveral iflands, 
lefsly occupy 
nding parts of 


of America, is 
yet been con- 
ed but minute 
me, and a long 


the archipelago 
hat name, and 
ide and longi- 
» weft, and 20 
|. The feafon, 
the. days, and 
bt permit me to 
for which, two 
quifite, on ac- 
fuch furveys, 
ofity, but can 
r of any utility 
ve hefitated to 
he entrance of 
e; but at the 
equinox, with 
ontinual fogs, 
buld doubtlefs 
t affording any 
, I fhould have 
oyage. 

, that out of 
we have pafled 
15 at 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 363 


15 at fea, and only three in the different ports of our 
defination. Our care and attention have been fo 
confiantly fuccefsful, that we have had neither fick- 
nef nor feurvy among us. But though, at the mo- 
ment I have the honour of writing, we have traverfed 
over a diflance of 10,000 leagues, we have not yet 
completed a third part of our voyage, and,I dare not 
duter myfelf with the expectation of equal good for- 
tune, during the reft of my courfe, if indeed we can 
ever call ourfelves fortunate, after the terrible difafter 
that befel us at Port des Français, and of which I fent 
you an account from Monterey. Since all my pre- 
caution could not prevent this ftroke of misfortune, 
itis but too clearly proved, that all attempts are in 
vain to avoid our deftined fate. 

Ihave been fcrupuloufly attentive not to change 
the names given by Captain Cook to the different 
capes he furveyed ; but it will not efcape you, that as 
we examined the coaft of America much more clofely 
than that celebrated navigator, we have been au- 
thorifed in giving names to ports, bays, iflands, and 
entrances, which he never fuppofed even to exift ; 
and cuftom permits me to felect thofe appellations 
from perfons whofe names being engraved on my 
heart, ever prefent themfelves to my recollection 
with the livelieft pleafure. 

It is my ardent wifh, Sir, that your occupations 
may not prevent you from running over the different 
chapters of my narrative, that you may judge with 
what ftriétnefs I have endeavoured to obey every 
article of my inftructions. I have vifited Eafter 
Mand, the pretended place of iflands eaftward of the 
Sandwich Ifles, which, however, have no exiftence ; 
the ifland of Mowec, one of the Sandwich Ifles, on 
which Captain Cook did not land, and the north- 
weft coaft of America from Mount St. Elias to Noot- 
ka: but from Nootka to Monterey, I have only fur- 
veyed 


364 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


veyed the points which Captain Cook was not abje 
to lay down, and were therefore dotted on the charts, 

Concerning the Spanifh fettlements, I have pro. 
cured the information required of me in my private 
inftruCtions; and have the honour herewith, to tranf. 
mit you a paper on that fubject. 

I have traverfed the great Pacific Ocean on a pa- 
rallel one hundred and fixty leagucs diftant from that 
of other navigators ; I have difcovered ?I/le Necker, 
and la Baffe des Frégates Frangaifes ; by my track | 
have proved that the iflands of Gorta, Deferta la 
Mira, and Garden Ifland* have no exiftence ; and 
I have vifited, according to my inftruétions, one of 
the iflands to the northward of the Marianas, whence 
I am now arrived in China. 

In the beginning of the feafon I fhall fet fail to 
navigate between the coaft of this empire, of Corea, 
of Tartary, and the ifles of Japan and the Kuriles. | 
fhall then put into Kamtfchatka, and on ieaving that 
port fhall vifit the Aleutian Iflands, and thofe laid 
down to the eaftward of Japan, of which, however, 
the exiftence is more than doubtful. 

It will afterwards only remain for me to fail to- 
wards the fouthern hemifphere, not forgetting to the 
northward of the line the Caroline Iflands, which I 
am enjoined to vifit. It is only from Kamttfchatka 
that it will be poffible for me to inform you of the 
further plan of my voyage, becaufe I cannot com- 
pletely determine it till I know with certitude the 
precife time of my quitting the roads of Siberia ; and 
as yet I am ignorant of the time I thall be obliged to 
confume in my navigation along the coaft of Tartary. 
The fouth-weft monfoon, which is met with to the 
fouthward of the line at the beginning of Novem- 
ber, will not permit me to indulge, et prefent, in 
calculations which the leaft delay may render nuga- 


* Vide Volume !. Page 242,——French Editor. 


tory ; 


OF 


ook was not able 
ted on the charts. 
rents, I have pro. 
me in my private 
rerewith, to tranf- 


c Ocean on a pa. 
s diftant from that 
red ?’Ifle Necker, 
5 by my track | 
sorta, Deferta Ja 
10 exiftence ; and 
ftructions, one of 
Marianas, whence 


I fhall fet fail to 
empire, of Corea, 
d the Kuriles. | 
nd on ieaving that 
s, and thofe laid 
which, however, 


wr me to fail to. 
forgetting to the 
Iflands, which I 
rom Kamtfchatka 
form you of the 
e I cannot con- 
ith certitude the 
ls of Siberia ; and 
hall be obliged to 
e coaft of Tartary. 
} met with to the 
ning of Novem- 
re, at prefent, in 
nay render nuga- 


M. DE LA MABRTINIERE. 365 


torys but if I forefce a poffiblility of paffing through 
Endeavour Strait before the commencement of this 
monfoon, my firft courfe will be round New Hol- 
land. If not I fhall begin with Cook’s Bay, in New 
Zealand, the fouthern part of New Caledonia, and 
the Arfacides and Caroline Iflands; then paffing 
through the Moluccas with the north-eaft monfoon, 
] fhall furvey New Holland, whence I fhall proceed 
to the Ifle of France. 

However vaft this plan, it does not exceed the 
geal of any one engaged in this expédition. The 
greateft difficulty is to complete the work within four 
years, and perhaps it will be impoffible to make our 
(hips, our rigging, and our provifion laft fo long. 
Whatever may be the event, I fhall make every effort 
to obey my inftruétions moft firiétly. Yet I fhall be 
able to fpend but a fhort time in the different places 
where we touch, and this long continuance at fea 
will not be very agreeable either to the botanifts or 
mineralogifts, who on fhore alone can find opportu- 
nities for the exercife of their fkill in the fciences they 
cultivate. | 


FROM M. DE LA MARTINIERE. 
Macao, Jan. 9, 1787. 

“ WE have now completed nearly half our voyage, 
after having touched fucceflively at Madeira, Tene- 
riff, St. Catherine in Brazil, la Conception in Chili, 
Fafter Ifland, the Sandwich Iflands, the north-wett 
coaft of America, and Monterey in California.” 

Here M. de Ja Martiniére defcribes the plants he 
found in the different places at which they touched. 
Among thofe he obferved in the ifland of Madeira, 
he mentions the dracena draco. 

“ It is become,” he fays, “ very rare;” and adds, 
“ the idea we have of this plant from the miferable 
famples we cultivate in our green-houfes, falls great- 


ly 


366 CORRESPONDENCE OF 

ly below that we receive by fecing it in its native 
country. Ihave found three, in particular, whofe 
trunks were fix or feven feet high, and four and à 
half or five feet in diameter. The principal branches, 
to the number of twelve or fifteen, are as large as 
a man’s body, and dividing themfelves always into 
two, and fometimes, though rarely, into three, tower 
upwards rather obliquely, to the height of forty o 
fifty feet, including the feven feet of the trunk, 
The leaves occupy only the extremity of the branches, 
where they are difpofed alternately, and form a cluf. 
ter. This tree delights the eye with the moft perfect 
regularity of form, and has the appearance of being 
trimmed every day by the hand of the gardener.” 

From the ifland of Medeira our navigators pafled 
to that of Teneriff, and M. de la Martinière obterved 
between the port of Orotava and the laft cone of the 
peak of Teneriff, five different fpecies of plants. 

‘ I fhould be tempted to believe,” he fays, “ this 
difference is only owing to the greater or lefs dif- 
compofition of the bafaltes, which neceflarily be- 
come vegetative earth ; confequently we are not fur- 
prifed to fee the plain of Orotava covered with vines 
and various fruit trees, becaufe the rains and melted 
fnow carry down earth of the fincit kind, and the bef 
adapted to vegetation.” 

_ * Befides feveral plants natural to this ifland, and 
of which the celebrated Mafiin has given an exact 
defcription, we find the fhrub called fpartium fupra- 
nulium, which is very well defcribed in the fupple- 
ment to Linnæus. ‘This is the laft fhrub that grows 
toward the higheft elevation of this great mountain. It 
vegetates, bowever, with fuch ftrength, that fome are 
not unfrequently met with, whofe branches fpread to 
near cighty feet in circumference, and rife feven or 
eight feet high. It bears an immenfe quantity of 
flowers, which are probably very attractive to the 
bees, though at a very confiderable height for fuch 

feeble 


it in its native 
articular, whofe 
and four and à 
ncipal branches, 
, are as large as 
ves always into 
nto three, tower 
ight of forty or 
; of the trunk, 
of the branches, 
nd form a cluf. 
the moft perfect 
arance of being 
e gardener.” 
avigators pafled 
tinière obferved 
laft cone of the 
of plants. 
he fays, “ this 
ater or lefs dif- 
neceflarily be- 
r we are not fur- 
ered with vines 
ins and melted 
nd, and the beft 


this ifland, and 
given an exact 
fpartium fupra- 
lin the fupple- 
hrub that grows 
sat mountain. It 
h, that fome are 
inches fpread to 
1d rife feven or 


nfe quantity of 


ttractive to the 
height for fuch 
feeble 


M. DE LE MARTINIERE. 367 


feeble animals to reach. I was led to this conjecture 
by finding, in the crater of this famous peak, feveral 
vents, in the mouths of which were feen fmall quan- 
tities of bees half confumed. ‘They were probably 
fuffocated by the fulphureous vapours from the vent, 
after being attracted thither by the gentle warmth 
this apparent afylum offered againft the cold and im- 
petuofity of the winds, that furprized them at fo great 
a diftance from their little homes. 

“ Our refpiration was here by no means difficult, 
except when we were expofed to the immediate ac- 
tion of the fulphureous vapours, difengaged from the 
crater by a great number of vents, at the bottom of 
which we obferved a great quantity of fulphur, in 
needles and very beautiful chryftals. Volatile alkali 
appeared to poflefs its ordinary ftrength there. In 
our defcent from the peak, we took the road leading 
to the fmall town of Gouima; in confequence of 
which I had the pleafure of feeing many other fmall 
volcanos, and feveral {mall fhrubs I had not found in 
any other part of the ifland, fuch as the cy/yus pro- 
liferus, ciflus monfpetienfis, ciflus villofus, erica arborea, 
and the pinus teda, in confiderable quantities.” 

On the 30th of Auguft our navigators quitted this 
ifland. ‘Their next port was in the ifland of Saint 
Catharine, on the coaft of Brazil. ‘This place pre- 
fents a vaft field for every refearch of natural hiftory ; 


but the rains that prevailed during the ftay of M. de 


la Martinière prevented his devoting himfelf to it fo 
much as he withed. More fortunate at Chili, where 
M. Dombay made a long refidence, greatly to the 
advantage of the feience of botany; M. de la Marti- 
niere, being then unacquainted with the labours that 
learned man had there purfued, applied himfelf, like 
the former, to correct the errors which Father Feuil- 
lée has committed in his Z##oire Medicinale des 
Plantes. However, in recording thefe crrors, M. de 
la Martinière confefles the work of that prieft has 

great 


368 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


great merit, and befpeaks him a man of great infor. 
mation. On the fubject of the id, a tree whofe 
fhade, according to Father Feuillée and other bota- 
nifts, produces involuntary fleep, and occafions an 
infupportable itching, M, de la Martinière exprefies 
himfelf thus : 

“ The account he has left of the pernicious quali- 
ty of the Adi (vol. iii. page 33, tab. 33) deferves, I 
think, fome reftrictions, according to my experience, 
Being one day on an excurfion, accompanied by one 
of our foldicrs, we were joined by two Spanifh pea- 
fants, who took pleafure in following us, and telling us 
the names of the places and different plants we met 
with.” Coming to feveral ici, which fhaded the road 
we were paffing, “ There,” faid I, pointing to it, 
“is the ich; and they immediately confirmed me, 
by giving it the fame appellation. I then made figns 
to them that it was dangerous to touch; when one 
of them, to undeceive me, gathered a handful of 
the leaves, and chewed them in his mouth for a very 
long time, till they were quite reduced to fmall frag- 
ments. However, he fignified to me, that if I flept 
under the tree, I fhould feel an itching all over my 
body, and be obliged io fcratch myfelf; an ation he 
imitated with the greater facility, as from their un- 
cleanlinefs it forms a part of their conftant occupation. 
Encouraged, therefore, by his example, we gathered 
a handful of the fruit at the ends of the branches, from 
which neither of us experienced any bad effect. It 
is therefore poffible that this quality of the tree may 
be owing to a fpecies of extremely fmall reddith in- 
fect I obferved on it; but this is given merely as à 
conjecture. 


of great infor. 
a tree whofe 
id other bota- 


- occafions an 
rière exprefles 


rnicious quali- 
3) deferves, I 
ny experience, 
panied by one 
> Spanifh pea- 
, and telling us 
plants we met 
haded the road 
pointing to it, 
confirmed me, 
hen made figns 
ch; when one 
| a handful of 
outh for a very 
d to fmall frag- 

that if I flept 
g all over my 
f; an aéion he 
rom their un- 
ant occupation. 
e, we gathered 
branches, from 
bad effet. It 
f the tree may 

all reddifh in- 
ren merely as à 


FROM 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE, 369 


FROM M, DE LA PÉROUSE. 


SIR, Macao, 1814 Jan, 1787. 


À particular account of all the officers and 
paflengers of the divifion is due, to you; and, as I 
have much to fay to their credit, it is a duty I fhall 
perform with no finall fatisfaétion to myfelf. 

M. de Langle is an excellent officer, who with 
great talents in his profeffion combines a firm and 
unfhaken character. His exactitude in following me 
has been fo great, that we have never been out of 
hail, except when I ordered him to keep at a dif- 
tance, and make fail a-head, his fhip: being a much 
better failer than mine. | 

The return of M. Monge has been no injury to 
theaftronomical obfervations on board the Aftrolabe, 
for M. de Langle is equally as good a naval aftrono- 
mer as the profeflor. He has been perfectly well fe- 
conded by M. de Vaujuas, a well-informed officer, 
and has trained to thefe obfervations M. de Laurif- 
ton, who is in all refpects an accomplifhed young 
man, as well in regard to information as in his per- 
fonal character, zeal, and attachment to the fervice. : 

Ihave authorized M. de Langle to inform you 
himfelf of his opinion regarding the talents, charac- 
ter, and conduct of each of his officers and paffen- 
gers, I know him to be incapable of prejudice or 
partiality, and you will learn the truth from him with- 
out difguite. 

M. de Clonard, my fecond captain, is an officer 
of great merit, who, in addition to all the talents of 
his profeffion, poffeflés a character of punctuality, 
zeal, honour, and love of glory, which render him, 
in my eyes, one of the moft valuable men with whom 
Thave ever been acquainted. In conformity with 
your orders, I gave him his commiilion of capitaine 
de vaiffeau on the 1fi January, 1787, to take his fe- 

Vox. II. Bb niority 


370 CORRESPONDENCE OF 

niority from that date, and rank with other captains, 
as mentioned in the letter you did me the honour 
to write me from Verfailles, the 23d June, 1785. 

M. Boutin is full of intelligence and talents; his 

activity is indefatigable, ‘and he poffeffes a calm firm- 
hefs in the ‘hour of danger that exceeds ‘every pane- 
gyric. ‘Lo'this‘quality I owe the ptefervation of the 
jolly-boat, which pañfed through the breakers of Port 
des Francais, on that fatal day when our unfortunate 
companions were loft. On the fame day I fhould 
have made ‘ufe of the power you have giver me, by 
your letter dated 23d June, of antedating or poft- 
poning the favours Of his Majefty. A recompence 
Was ‘certainly ‘die to an ‘officer to whom TI ain in- 
debted for the prefcrvation of ‘fix men, and who had 
himfelf juft ‘efcaped from fuch'imminent danger. But 
our affliétion was fo great, that I did not think of 
conferring thet favour upon ‘him till the 1ft of Ja- 
nuaty, 1787, that being the time fixed for the date of 
a fimilar favour to M. ‘de Vaujuas. I have, there- 
fore, -advanced M. Boutin’s promotion only fix 
nionths. 
"Et is painful to me to recall to mind the lofs we 
have feffered; while T have 'the honour to reprefent 
to you that the death of fix officcrs renders the 
gréater’part of the honours you were pleafed to con- 
fer on thofe-of our divifion ufelefs. 

Mefits. Colinet, Saint Céran, Darbaud, Mouton, 
and Broudou, to whom T have given'the two commif- 
fions of leutenant de frégate, are zealous and active, 
and perform their duty perfectly well. Their fer- 
vices are very frequently required, every boat being 
conftantly cotimanded by an officer. The number 
of them would even have been infufficient without 
the two promotions I conferred. 


other captains, 
ne the honour 
une, 1785. 
id talents; his 
és a calm firm- 
‘ds ‘every pane- 
fervation of the 
teakers ‘of Port 
ur unfortunate 
e day I thould 
é given me, by 
dating or poft- 
A recompence 
yhom T am in- 
n, and who had 
nt danger. But 
d not think of 
‘the 1ftof Ja- 
d for the date of 
I have, there- 
tion only fix 


d the lofs we 
ur to reprefent 
rs renders the 
pleafed to con- 


baud, Mouton, 
he two commif- 
ous and active, 
ll. Their fer- 
ery boat being 

The number 
ficient without 


FROM 


M. DE LANGLE, 371 


FROM M. DE LANGLE, 


Sir, 4 Macao, 11th January, 1787. 


THE Aftrolabe’s voyage has been very fuccefsful 
during her paffage from Monterey to Macao. I have 
not loft a fingle man, nor even had one fick ; and 
the fhip will be in a ftate to continue the voyage 
when her rigging and fails have been repaired. 

The ardour and alacrity of my crew have notre. 
laxed for a fingle inftant; and we fhall continue, 
with the greateft pleafure, to contribute to the fuc- 
cefs of the expedition of M. de la Péroufe. 

The firmnefs, good fenfe and forefight of M. de 
Monti, contribute to the happinefs of all his affo- 
ciates, and his talents infpire me with the greateft 
confidence. 

In the courfe of my fervice, I have never met 
with a naval officer equally accomplifhed with M. de 
Vaujuas. 

M. Daigremont has great judgment and firmnefs 
of mind. tle is engaged in the aftronomical obfer- 
vations, and will purfue them with great fuccefs. 

M. de Blondela is an excellent officer, of moft ex- 
emplary good fenfe and firmnefs. He employs his 
leifure in drawing plans of the different roads, which 
he executes with great tatte and accuracy. 

The ardour of M. de Laurifton, in the purfuit of 
every kind of knowledge has never relaxed. He is 
at prefent an excellent officer, and promifes fair to 
make great progrefs in aftronomy. I rely on him 
for every thing relative to that feiencc. 

It is to the talents of thefe five officers, and the 
harmony that reigns among them, that I owe the 
firict regularity with which the Aftrolabe has con- 
fiantly kept in fight of the Bouflole, even during the 
night, and when enveloped in fogs. They take fo 
much intereft in the fafety and prefervation of the 

Bb 2 fhip, 


372 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


fhip, and the fuccefs of the voyage, that I find my. 
{elf at prefent lefs occupied than any of them. 

I fhould be completely happy if they may be per. 
mitted to receive thofe honours at the Ifle of France, 
to which you juftly expected they would become en- 
titled, on their return. 

M. de Vaujuas, who was at the head of the en. 
Jeignes when you made him lieutenant, and. who was 
not bleffed with a patrimony, has, I think, juft pre. 
tenfions to the penfion of 800 livres granted to the 
late M. d’Efcures. 

M. de Laurifton alfo deferves, I think, to rank 
among the enfeignes, from the 13th July, 1786, 
the period at which M. de la Péroufe gave him the 
commiffion. 

I cannot fufficiently praife the amenity of difpofi- 
tion and other good qualities of M. de Leffeps, 

Father Receveur performs his functions with great 
propriety, and is poflefled of good fenfe, joined with 
an agreeable difpofition. At fea he is occupied in 
meteorological and aftronomical obfervations; and in 
harbour, with every thing relative to natural hif- 


tory. 


M. de la Martinière applics to botany with great 


ardour. 

- M. Dufrefne has been very ufeful by his purchafes 
of fea otter fkins, and has taken great care of their 
prefervation and fale: as he is defirous of returning 
to France, and I confider him no longer ufeful to 
us, M. de la Péroufe has granted him permiffion to 
depart. 

I have great encomiums to befiow on M. Lavaux, 
my chief furgeon, and M. Guillou, his mate, who 
have contributed by their care to the good health of 
my fhip’s company. At prefent they have fortu- 
nately much leifure, which they employ, when in 
port, in making obfervations in natural hiftory and 
botany, and collections for the King's ns | 

| ave 


PE ot RL te Mes CT 


ed 


at I find my. 
of them. 

y may be per- 
Ifle of France, 
id become en- 


ad of the en. 
and who was 
ink, juft pre- 
pranted to the 


hink, to rank 
July, 1786, 
gave him the 


nity of difpofi- 
Leffeps. 

ons with great 
>, joined with 
is occupied in 
ations; and in 
o natural hif- 


ny with great 


y his purchafes 
care of their 
of returning 
nger ufeful to 
permiffion to 


n M. Lavaux, 
is mate, who 
ood health of 
y have fortu- 
loy, when in 
| hiftory and 
cabinet. 


I have 


M. DE LA PEROUSE. 373 


I have to entreat your favour in behalf of M. 
Broflard, who, after ferving forty months as a volun- 
teer, on board feveral fhips, embarked in the Aftrolabe 
as affiftant mafter’s mate. He has done the duty of firft 
mafter’s mate, from the 3d July, 1786, with a great 
deal of zeal and intelligence. Tentreat you to fend 
him, at the Ifle of France, a lieutenant’s commiffion. 

Permit me to recommend to you my mafter, gun- 
ner, carpenter, fail-maker, and caulker. They are 
old fervants, who have afforded proofs of their abi- 
lity and fteadinefs, and contributed much to the 
gaicty that reigns on board my fhip, and the har- 
mony that prevails among every individual. I be- 
feech you to grant them their fubfiftence. I do not 
fpeak of my boatfwain, becaufe I fhall give him his 
warrant of fubfiftence, if he continues to conduct 
himfelf with as much fteadinefs and propriety as he 
has hitherte fhewn. 

M. de Bellegarde has becn removed from the Mar- 
quis de Caftries, a {hip armed en flûte, to the Aftro- 
labe. He is a perfon of whom M. de Richery has 
fpoken with great praife. He is garde de la marine. 


FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE. 


Sir, Macao, 2d February, 1787. 


I HAVE often occupied your attention with our 
furs; I even added they were fold ; I had reafon to 
believe fo, for the bargain was concluded ; but the 
difficulties made by the purehafers at the time of de- 
livery, have broken off the contract. Fora moment, 
I propofed to bring them home to France, where I 
was perfuaded they would find a better and inore 
certain market than at China. But reflecting that 
my return to Europe is yet far diftant, I accepted the 
obliging offer of M. Elitockenfirom, Director of the 
Swedifh Eaft-India Company, who has taken charge 
Bb3 of 


374 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


of thetn, and éngaged to fell them for the profit of the 
failors. He will fend the produce to the Ifle of France, 
Where I propofe to divide it among the crews, unlefs, 
by the orders you may fend me at that. colony, it 
may be otherwife difpofed of. I fhall not however ar- 
rive there within two years. 

I cannot refrain from informing you,:that the 
French nation has not, at this moment a fingle indi- 


vidual refident in China with whom iI could entrutt, 


inis trifling concern, The two fupercargoes are mad- 
men. The firft, M. Thérein, has deftroyed himfelf 
by blowing out his own brains ; and M. Dumoulin, 


the fecond, has committed feveral acts of infanity, . 


which in Europe would have caufed him to be con- 
fined. He continues, however, entrufted with a 
charge of great importance, becaufe no one thinks 
himfelf fufficiently authorized to difplace him from 
his office. The neceflary confequence of this fiate 
of affairs is, that every commercial nation, even Den- 
mark and Sweden, have men of the greatefi merit at 
Macao, while France alone has not a fingle indivi- 
dual of fufficient information to be a country juftice 
of peace. I fhall indulge myfelf in fome remarks on 
this fubject, when I have the honour to write you 
from Manilla. 

I forgot to mention in my former letters, that I 
found, in the road of Macao, the Marquis de Caffries, 
a fhip armed en flûte, and commanded by M. de Ri- 
chery, enfcigne de vaiffeau. As this fhip was difpatch- 
ed by Meffis, de Coffigny and d’Entrecafteaux, you 
will be informed by them of its miffion; but I thought 
I might take on myfelf to difcharge M. de Bellegarde 
from that fhip, and employ him on board the Aftro- 
Jabe, to replace the three officers who were loft on 
the coaft of America, though he is only a garde de la 
Marine, 


FROM 


we ae oe a Es 


10 sn 


t 
t 
€ 
c 
] 
; 
} 
; 
{ 


oe — 


e profit of the 
fle of France, 
crews, unlefs, 
at. colony, it 
t however ar- 


you, ‘that the 
a fingle indi- 
could entruft: 
goes are mad- 
roycd himfelf 
M. Dumoulin, 


s of infanity, . 


im to be con- 
rufted with a 
10 one thinks 
ace him from 
> of this flate 
on, even Den- 
‘eatefi merit at 
fingle indivi- 
ountry juftice 
me remarks on 
to write you 


letters, that I 
uis de Caffries, 
by M. de Ri- 
was difpatch- 
ecafteaux, you 
; but I thought 
. de Bellegarde 
bard the Aftro- 
o were loft on 
y a garde de la 


FROM 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE, 


FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE. 


‘Sir, Manilla, 7th April, 1787. 


IF your various occupations have permitted you to. 
caft your eyes over my narrative, I flatter myfelf you , 
will perceive we have neglected nothing that could, 
render our voyage interefting and ufeful. Our chart. . 
of the north-welt coaft of America, from Mount St. 
Elias to Monterey, will leave little to be defired by. 
navigators. Our misfortune in Baie des Français, 
fay from abating our ardour, has more ftrongly con- 
vinced us of the duties we owe to his Majefty and the 
nation, and we inceflantly regret that it is our fate not 
to have the leaft hope of difcovering a new continent, 
but that we can only expect to meet with a few iflands 
of little importance, that will add nothing either ta 
our knowledge or our commerce. You will have 
learned froma the letters delivered you by M. Dufrefne, 
that after having fold our fkins, 1 propofed to fail for 
Manilla, there to take in provifions, overhaul our 
rigging, repair our rudder, and, in fhort, put our- 
felves in a fituation to continue our yoyage, by paf- 
fing through the channel of Formofa, and ranging 
the weftern coafts of Japan and Tartary. 

You will obferve, Sir, that this part of our voyage 
has been generally deemed the moft difficult ; and if 
we are happy enough to explore thefe coafts with the 
fame fuccefs as thofe of America, we fhall have the 
honour of being the firft who have effected this navi- 
gation, which is fubjeét ta the moft violent ftorms, 
in narrow feas, entirely unknown, enveloped in 
fogs, probably interfperfed with rocks, and ren- 
dered fill more dangerous by rapid currents. All 
thefe difficulties, however, prefent themfelves to our 
imagination only to excite our prudence, inflame 
pur ardour, and fortify our courage. 


Bba I left 


376 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


I left Macao the 6th February, and did not arrive 
at Cavita, in the bay of Manilla, till the 28th. The 
details of this paflage are not a little interefting to 
navigation, and will add a chapter to our narrative, 

I preferred the harbour of Cavita to the road of 
Manilla, becaufe we are near an arfenal, and within 
reach of all fupplics. ‘Thefe have, indeed, been hcap- 
ed upon us with a lavifh hand, and we are indebted 
to the orders of the government, and flill more to 
the obliging care of M. Gonzales Carvagnal, intend- 
ant of the Philippines, that we fhall leave Cavita as well 
provided with freth provifions as at our departure from 
Breft.. From Kamtfchatka I fhall have the honour 
of fending you, according to your orders, a particular 
account of Manilla, its refources, adminiftration, new 
company, and governors, who by no means adopt 
the fentiments of the cabinet of Madrid towards our 
country. I muft, however, make an exception in 
favour of the intendant, from whom we have receiv- 
ed, in every inflance, teftimonies of extreme kind- 
nefs, and who has never failed to go every day in 
perfon to all our purveyors, becaufe he knew the tar- 
dy difpofition of his countrymen, and was anxious 
that we might not lofe a fingle day. 

I quit this place the 8th of April, although the 
north-caft monfoon will then fill continue; but I 
fhall be able to profit by the firft change of wind to 
get to the northward. Before fetting fail, I have fecn 
the frigate, La Subtile, commanded by M. de la Croix 
de Catiries, arrive in the bay of Manilla. M. d’En- 
trecafteaux had difpatched this fhip partly to inform 
ine of his proceedings in China, that we might not 
run the rifk of counteracting them, fhould our in- 
ftructions enjoin us to navigate along the northern 
coafts of that empire. 

M. d’Entrecafteaux will inform you of the revolt 
of the natives of Formofa, and of the offer of his fer- 
vices he felt it his duty to make to China for the re- 

duction 


did not arrive 
e 28th. The 
interefting to 
ur narrative, 
o the road of 
al, and within 
ed, been hcap- 
e are indebted 
flill more to 
sagnal, intend- 
e Cavita as well 
departure from 
ive the honour 
rs, a particular 
niftration, new 
_ means adopt 
id towards our 
1 exception in 
ve have receiv- 
extreme kind- 
o every day in 
‘ knew the tar- 
1 was anxious 


although the 

bntinue ; but I 
ge of wind to 

fail, I have fecn 
M. de la Croix 
la. M. d’En- 
artly to inform 
we might not 
ould our in- 

ee the northern 


L of the revolt 
fer of his fer- 
ina for the re- 
duction 


M. DE LA PEROUSE. 377 


duction of the rebels. His propofal was however not 
accepted, and I own I fhould have beheld with gricf 
the navy of France lending its affiftance to a govern- 
ment the moft iniquitous and oppreflive on earth. 
Without a crime I may offer np a prayer to heaven 
for the unhappy Formofuns fighting in the caufe of 
liberty. 

I returned for anfwer to M. d’Entrecafteaux that 
my navigating along the coaft of China would not in 
the leaft alarm that government; that I fhould not 
put out my colours, and would avoid giving them um- 
brage even in the flighteft punétilio; adding, that 
although a good Frenchman at heart, I fhall, in this 
country, aflume the character of a citizen of the 
world, eftranged from all the politics of Afia. 

Previous to my departure from Breft, you addref- 
fed to me a memoir on Formofa, by M. Veillard. 
Judge of my afonifhment when at Macao I found 
this M. Veillard had not the leaft knowledge of that 
country, that he could not anfwer a fingle queftion I 
put to him, and that his memoir is a mere copy of a 
manufcript in the hands of every European at Macao, 

Though it is very foreign to the object of my 
voyage to concern myfelf with the fervants of the 
French government at Canton, I fhould not do juf- 
tice to the marked confidence you are pleated to re- 
pofe in me, were I to leave you ignorant that Met 
Veillard, Coftar, de Guignes, and Dumoulin ought 
never to have been entrufted with the affairs of a 
great nation ; and that I was obliged to apply to M. 
Elfiockenfirom, Prefident of the Swedifh company, 
for all my wants, 

Ihave the honour to fend you a private letter on 
that fubject. 


CORRESPONDENCE OF 


FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 
SIR, Manilla, 7th April, 1787. 


THE arrival of M. de la Croix de Cattries at Ma- 
nilla has been one of the moft fortunate events of our 
voyage. He has very kindly offered to carry our 
furs to France, as | had the honour of mentioning to 
you before, and moft obligingly to repair the lofès 
we have fuftained fince our departure, by transferring 
four men and an officer out of his crew ta each of 
our fhips. In confequence of this arrangement, M. 
Guyet de la Villeneuve, en/eigne de vaiffcau, has been 
removed on board the Bouflole, and M. te Gobien, 
garde de la marine, to the Aftrolabe. This recruit was 
very neceflary, as three days ago we had the misfor- 
tune to lofe M. Daigremont, one of the lieutenants on 
board the Aftrolabe, who dicd of a dyfentery; and 
the health of M. de Saint Céran is fo much impaired, 
that I am obliged to fend him to the Ifle of France 
for his recovery, all the furgeons having declared it 
impoffible for him to procecd on the voyage. Thus, 
fince our departure from Europe, our efat-major has 
fuffered a diminution of no lefs than eight officers, 
feven of whom no longer exift, and the cighth affords 
little hopes of life. We have, however, in two years, 
loft only one cfficer and a fervant by, natural death, 
Both thefe belonged to the Aftroiabe, whofe crew, 
however, has enjoyed {till mare perfect health than 
that of the Boufloie. 


FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE. 
Sir, Awatfcha, Sept. 10, 1787. 


I MAY venture to flatter myfelf you will receive 
with pleafure the particulars of our voyage from Ma- 
nilla to Kamtfchatka. Our fhips have purfued a 

traçk 


April, 1787. 


ftries at Ma- 

events of our 

to carry our 

nentioning to 

air the lotles 
y transferring 
ew to each of 
ngement, M. 
Jcau, has been 
A. le Gobien, 
lis recruit Was 
d the misfor- 
lieutenants on 
yfentery; and 
uch impaired, 
Ifle of France 
ng declared it 
pyage. Thus, 
etat-major has 
eight officers, 
cighth affords 
,in two years, 
natural death, 
| whofe crew, 
€ health than 


ept. 10, 1787. 


u will receive 
age from Ma- 
ve purfucd à 

traçk 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 379 
track abfolütely new. They have pañled between 


Coréa and Japan, ranged the coaft of Tartary to the: 


neighbourhood of the river Segalien, explored the 
Oku:Jeflo, and Jeffo of the Japaneie, and difcovered 
a new ftrait for failing out of the fea of Tartary, Our 
difcoveries have been verified and connected with 
thofe of the Dutch, which the greater number of 


revgraphers began to reject, and the Ruffians found 


moft advantageous to efface from their charts, Laft- 
ly, we have failed out to the northward of the Com- 
pany’s land, ‘whence we ftecred for Kamtichatka.: 
Our fhips anchored in the bay of Awatfcha, on the 7th 
September, after a paflage of 150 days, of which 140 
were fpent at fea; and we have nota fick man on 
board either of the fhips, though we have failed in 
the middle of the thickeft fogs. Obliged to anchor 
or weigh every moment, with fatigues of which the 
voyages of Captain Cook perhaps afford but few ex- 
amples, our care for the prefervation of our crews 
has been hitherto attended with ftill greater fuccefs 
than on board the veffels of that celebrated naviga- 
tor; for in twerity-fix months, which have elapted 
fince our departure from Europe, not one perfon has 
died on board the Bouflole, nor have we one fick 
man on board either of our fhips. 

I recollect that on the delivery of my inftruCtions 
you remarked how difficult and interefting would be 
this part of our navigation, fince it cannot be of lefs 
importance to geography to know the limits of the 
continent we inhabit, than thofe of the fouthern con- 
tuent or North America. We have been fo fortu- 
nate as to prefent geographers with two iflands 
equally large with thofe of Great Britain and Ireland, 
and to have decided the only geographical problem 
that remained to be refolved on the globe. Previous 
to this I could not venture to rank our voyage next 
in rank to that of Captain Cook ; and had not death 
arrefied that great man’s career, it is probable he 

would 


ri mg ee 


380 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


would not have left the exploration of the coaft of 
Tartary to his fucceflors. Should your occupations 


permit you to caft your eye over my narrative, you . 


will find, interwoven with the nautical details, all the 
obfervations I had occafion to make on the pcople I 
have vifited, and the foil and productions of their 
country. I have neglected nothing, in general, that 
could intereft government with refpect to commerce, 
and, at the fame time, have not forgctten that it is 
necefläry to engage the attention and occupy the lei- 
fure of the learned, who are waiting only for our re- 
turn, perhaps, to publifh new fyftems:of philofophy, 
To my narrative I have added all the neeeflary charts, 
plans, and tables of latitude and longitude, as well 
as the drawings of Meffts Duché and Blondela, for 
the truth of which I can be refponfible. 

I have the honour to fend you alfo two memoirs 
relative to the political part ‘of my inftrudctions, the 
one on Manilla and the other on Formofa. ‘i hey 
are very fummary, becaufe I know the value o° 
time, and they contain only what I thought un.” ic 
be inferted in my narrative. I dared not truft them 
to the poft; and think you will approve of the ftep 
TI have taken in difpatching M. de Leffeps, our Ruf- 
fian interpreter, to France. I confidercd that his 
pay and fubfiftence would amount to nearly as much 
as the expence of his journcy from Kamtfchatka to 
Paris, and I fhould be unwilling to carry with me 
into the fouthern hemifphere a young man deflined 
for a diplomatic career of confulfhips, and who would 
lofe on board, that time which he ought to employ 
in infiruétion. I have therefore charged him with 
my letters ; and I flatter myfelf that by the time he 
arrives at Paris, our fhips will haye reached New 
Zealand. 

In a few days I fhall have the honour to addref 

ou a letter relative to the ultcrior plan of my voyage, 
which will be of nearly four years continuance. 
During 


ten +0 CS 


a 


of the coaft of 
ur occupations 
narrative, you : 
details, all the 
on the people I 
étions of their 
in general, that 
t to commerce, 
ctten that it is 
occupy the lei- 
mly for our re- 
‘of philofophy. 
eceflary charts, 
gitude, as well 
1 Blondela, for 
é, 

> two memoirs 
nftructions, the 
ormofa. aey 
e value o- 
hought un i 
not truft them 
rove of the ftep 
(feps, our Ruf- 
idercd that his 
nearly as much 
Kamtfchatka to 
carry with me 
r man defined 
and who would 
ight to employ 
rged him with 
y the time he 
reached New 


our to addrefs 
n of my voyage, 
S continuance. 
During 


M. DE LA PEROUSE. 381 


During. that'period ‘we fhall have been 38 months 
under fail';, a voyage, perhaps, hitherto without ex- 
ample. h “1 ye ! 


FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 
Sir, Awat/cha, Sept. 21, 1787. 

I HAD the honour of addreffing you by Mel 
Dufrefne and Leffeps, the narrative of my voyage 
from our firft leaving Breft to our arrival at Kamt- 
fchatka. . It now remains for me to inform you of 
the ultimate plan of our navigation, fince I have 
made ufe of the liberty you gave me, of making any 
alteration in it that fhould be found convenient, con- 
forming, however, as much as poffible to my inftruc- 
tions. I thought it beft to begin with the northern 
hemifphere, and conclude with that of the fouth, 
where the Ifle of France is fituated, confidering that 
as the ultimate limit of the objects of my navigation. 
I may venture to flatter myfelf your intentions 
have been thus far perfectly anfwered with refpe@ to 
me; and I have been fo completely feconded by M. 
de Langle, that ifthe voyage appears of any value in 
your eyes, he ought certainly to participate in the ho- 
nour and advantage of it. Our fhips, in defpite of 
the fogs, have failed fo clofe together, and in fuch 
HY | concert, that we might almoft pronounce this 
expedition to have been effected by only one fhip and 
captain. I purpoñe quitting the bay of A‘vatfcha on 
the 1ft of October. I fhall then fhape my courfe to 
reconnoitre the northern Kuriles as far as the Canal 
de la Bouffole, where I fhall run along the 37th pa- 
rallel, in fearch of the pretended land difcovered by 
the Spaniards in 1610. Ido not believe in the ex- 
iftence of this land, which is very near the ordinary 
track of the galleons ; and all the information I can 
obtain, leads me to belicve, the Spaniards never fell in 
with 


389 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


with it. From the 37th parallel 1 thall fteer for the 
archipelago r'orth of the ‘Marianas. or Ladrones, and 
run along that chain of iflands as far as Guam; where 
I fhall put in for only five days, to procure fuch a 
ftock of fruit and oxen as may preferve our crews 
from the {curvy during the remainder‘of our long na- 
vigation. 

From Guam I fhall fteer for the Cardine Iflands, if 
the information I obtain promifes a certainty of mak. 
ing Cape Choifeul of the Terre des Arfucides and patt: 
ing through the fame ftrait as M. de Bougainville, in 
order to get to the fouthward, and with the wefterly 
winds arrive in Queen Charlotte’s Sound in New Zea- 
land *, about the 20th January 1788. If, on the con- 
trary, from my own obfervation and enquiry of others, 
I find it impoffible to purfue that track, I fhall aban- 
don the attempt to explore the Caroline Iflands, which 
will oblige me to fall 150 leagues to Iceward of the 
Marianas, and I fhall fteer directly from Guam to New 
Zealand, keeping as much to the eaftward as poffible. 
In a track fo perfectly new, it is probable I may find 
feveral iflands more interefting than the Carolines, 
and certainly lefsknown. I fhall employ fome time 
in vifiting them; neither of thefe plans requiring 
my arrival. in New Zealand till the 20th of January 
1788. From Queen Charlotte’s Sound I fhall run to 
the Friendly Iflands, and perform all that is enjoined 
me in my inftrudtions relative to the fouthern part of 
New Caledonia, the ifland of Santa Cruz de Menda- 
na, the fouthern coaft of the Terre des Arfucides, and 
Bougainville’s Louifiade, determining whether it forms 
a part of New Guinea, or is feparated from it. At the 


* Ina fubfequent letter, dated 28th September, la Péroufe an- 
nounces, that on the 28th he received letters from the Minifter at 
Kamtfchatka, and that the only change of his plan refulting from 
thence will be that of not going to New Zealand, that he may have 
more time to explore the coaft of New Holland, and the Englifh 
fettlement there —french Editor. 


? 
end 


tt en. Le. 2 os ane! 2. ae See See: Se om" ala 


Pe a. oe ee 


all ‘fteer for the 
r Ladrones, and 
as Guam; where 

procure fuch a 
erve our crews 
‘of our long na- 


irdine Iflands, if 
tainty of mak. 
facides and pati: 
Bougainville, in 
ith the wefterly 
nd in New Zea- 
If, on the con- 
iquiry of others, 
ck, I fhall aban- 
e Iflands, which 
leeward of the 
n Guam to New 
ward as poffible. 
able I may find 

the Carolines, 
ploy fome time 
plans requiring 
oth of January 
d I fhall run to 
that is enjoined 
outhern part of 
ruz de Menda- 
rs Arfacides, and 
vhether it forms 
romit. At the 


pber, la Péroufe an- 
om the Minifter at 
plan refulting from 
d, that he may have 
d, and the Englifh 


’ 
end 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE! > 583 


end of July 1 fhall pafs between New Guinea and New 
Holland, by a different channel fiom that of Endea- 
vour Strait, fhould that paflage be found really to 
exift. During the months ‘of Augaft and Septem- 
ber, and a part of Odober I {hall vifit the Gulph of 
Carpentaria, and the coaft of New Holland, bat in 
fuch a manner that I fhall beable to get to the north- 
watd ‘towards the: tropics, and' arrive in the begin- 
ning of December 17 88, at the Ifle of France ; thence 
I fhall.fpeecily depart to explore the pretended Cape 
Circumcifion of Bouvet, and touching at the Cape of 
Good Hope or not, as circumftanecs may require, 
arrive in France about Jane 1789, 46 months after 
my departure. : 

I flatter myfelf you will obferve with pleafure 
that, in this long voyage, I fhali not have had oc- 
cafion to touch at ‘thofe tedious Society Iflands, on 
which more has been already written than on feveral 
of the kingdoms.of Europe, and I acknowledge I fhall 
think myfelf happy in not having to fpeak either of 
Otaheite or Queen Oberca. I have always taken par- 
ticular careto avoid the tracks of preceding navigators. 


FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 


SIR, Awat{cha, Sept. 25, 1787. 
YOU alrcady know that our misfortune on the 
north-weft coaft of America fruftrated all the intended 
favours you were pleafed to beftow on the officers of 
our fhips. Mefits. d'Efcures and de Pierrevert had 
each a penfion, which may be given to Meif de Vau- 
juas and Boutin, officers of equal merit, and no lefs 
diftinguifhed by their talents than by their zeal and 
activity. Mefiits. de Bellegarde and le Gobien, 
gardes de la marine, whom you have affociated with 
us in our labours, and who, at Macao and Manilla, 
evinced fo ardent a defire to-fupply the place of the 
officers 


384 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


officers we liad) the misfortune to lof, will by the 
time they arrive at the Ifle of France, have very well 
merited the commiflions of enx/eigne granted to Mefi: 
de Boutetvilliers, de “Flaffan, and; de Montarnal, 
Melfi; de Blondela and: Colinet, lieutenants, to whom 
you hive permitted me to give hopes. of a commiffion 
of capitaine de brälot on, their return, have already, 
by their good conduct; merited. that reward, which I 
therefore entreat you to fend to them at the Ifle of 
France, with the commiffion for M. de Monti, and ¢ 
letter of approbation to M. de Clonard. The latter 
being promoted to the rank of capitaine de vaiffeau, 
has nothing further to expect, but continues to per- 
form the duty ofa lieutenant, and attends to the mcf 
minute particulars: of fervice with an ardour and at- 
tention deferving the greateft eulogium. Though 
my applaufe may perhaps be fufpected of partiality, 
fince he is my moft particular friend, I muft affure 
you there cannot be found a better officer, or a more 
virtuous and honourable man. 

I have alfo many eulogiums to confer on the good 
conduct of M. Guyet de la Villenenne, who at Manilla 
was removed from M. de la Croix de Caftries’s fhip 
to mine, to fupply the place of M. de Saint Céran, 
whofe bad ftate of health obliged me to fend him to 
the Ifle of France. Nor can I omit the praifes due 
to Meff. Mouton and Broudou, whom I have reward- 
ed with the lieutenant’s commiffion you were pleafed 
to give me in blank before my departure. 

M. de Langle relies for every particular in aftrono- 
my on M. de Laurifton, a young man full of talents, 
zeal, and merit. He has been fo fuccefsful a pupil, 
that he no longer requires a mafter. M. Dagelet 
has alfo been perfectly well feconded by M. Darbaud, 
and there is not perhaps in all France a young man 
who at fo early an age poffeffes fo much information. 

M. Dagelet is here employed in the fame manner 
as ourfelves, and doubtlefs performs it better. ae 

a 


e, will by the 
ave very well 
nted to Mefi; 
le Montarnal, 
ants, to whom 
fa commiffion 
have already, 
ward, which I 
at the Ifle of 
» Monti, and & 
4... The latter 
ne de vaiffeau, 
tinues to per- 
nds to the mett 
ardour and at- 
um. ‘Though 
d of partiality, 
I muft affure 
ficer, or a more 


er on the good 
tho at Manilla 
Cafiries’s fhip 
le Saint Céran, 
to fend him to 
the praifes duc 
I have reward- 
bu were pleafed 

e. 
ular in aftrono- 
full of talents, 
cefsful a pupil, 
. M. Dagclet 
y M. Darbaud, 
é a young man 
h information. 
e fame manner 
better. Among 
all 


M. DE LANGLE. 385 


all his good and amiable qualities, his only defect 
feems to be a very delicate conftitution. 

M. de Langle is above all panegyric ; and I hope 
fincerely for the benefit of the fervice and of the ftate, 
he may attain the higheft rank in the navy before old 
age and fatigue fhall have diminifhed his powers. 
_M. Rollin, doctor of phyfic, and furgeon on board 
my fhip, is a man of diftinguifhed knowledge. By 
his care he has preferved us from the fcurvy and every 
other difeafe. You have authorifed me to promife 
him a penfion on his return, if the mortality does not 
excced three :n the hundred on board my fhip ; and 
during the twenty-fix months that have elapfed fince 
our departure, not one perfon has died a natural 
death on board the Bouffole, nor have we a man fick. 
. M. de Langle is alfo very well fatisfied with his 
furgeon, M. Lavaux. He has only loft a confump- 
tive fervant, and M. Daigremont, who poifoned him- 
felf by obftinately taking burnt brandy to cure the 
dyfentery. The purfer’s clerk of the Aftrolabe is 
alfo dead of a fractured fcull, occafioned by a mut 
ket burfting in his hands, 


FROM M. DE LANGLE, 


Sir, Awatfcha, 25th Sept. 1787. 
THE fogs that have conftantly enveloped us, 
fince our departure from Manilla, have confiderably 
damaged the cordage of the Aftrolabe. With the 
fpare cordage, however, which remain on board, I 
hope to be able to take her at leaft to the Ifle of 
France, about the time fixed in the plan of our voy- 
age. In other refpects my fhip is in good condition. 
During the fogs I have always kept within hail of 
the Bouffole, becaufe M. de la Péroufe has always 
made a point of our keeping company together, and 
my officers have piqued themfelves upon not fepa- 
Vou. IT, LC rating 


386: CORRESPONDENCE OF 


rating from him. To the encomiums I have already 
had the honour to fend you on their talents, I with 
I were able to add fufficient praife for the patience 
with which they await the end of the voyage, and 
the eagernefs of their defire to make new difcove- 
ries. 

The intereft I take in the honour of my country, 
and the fuccefs of M. de la Péroufe, induce me to 
mention to you with what reafon we felicitate our- 
felves on having terminated our perilous and difficult 
navigation along the coaft of Afia, for which we are 
certainly indebted to the vigilance, the prudence, and 
the talents of our commander. It will always be my 
endeavour to fecond his defigns, both from the in- 
tereft I feel in promoting the fcience of geography, 
and from every motive of gratitude for all the marks 
of friendfhip he has at all times beftowed upon me. 
I know alfo that you are anxious for the fuccefs of 
the voyage ; and nothing will obliterate from my re- 
collection the favours with which you have honoured 


me. It will be the earneft with of my heart to merit 
a continuation of your confidence. 


FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE. 
Sir, Awatfcha, 27th Sept. 1787. 
M. DE LESSEPS, whom I have charged with 


my letters, is a young man whofe conduct has been 
exemplary throughout our voyage ; and in fending 
him to France, I facrifice much of my own pleafure 
to the friendfhip I entertain for him. But as he is 
probably deftined one day to fill the place of his fa- 
ther in Ruffia, I think a journey by land, acrofs this 
vaft empire, will afford him means of acquiring in- 
formation ufeful to our commerce, and calculated 
to ftrengthen our connection. with a kingdom, 
whofe productions are fo neceflary to our ous ; 

aes Mi, GC 


| have already 
alents, I with 
the patience 
voyage. and 
new difcove- 


f my country, 
induce me to 
felicitate our- 
us and difficult 
r which we are 
prudence, and 
| always be my 
th from the in- 
of geography, 
r all the marks 
owed upon me, 
r the fuccefs of 
ate from my re- 
have honoured 
y heart to merit 


E. 
D7 th Sept. 1787. 
e charged with 


ynduct has been 


and in fending 
y own pleafure 
But as he is 
place of his fa- 
land, acrofs this 
bf acquiring in- 
| and calculated 
h a_ kingdom, 

our navy. 
M. de 


M. DE LA PEROUSE. | 387 
M. dé Leffeps appears to fpeak the Ruffian tongue 
with the fame facility as the French. He has rendered 
us at Kamtfchatka the greateft fervice ; and if the re- 
verfion of the place of conful-general at Peterfburgh, 
which his father enjoys, fhould be the reward of his 
voyage round the world by fea and land, I fhall re- 
ard this favour as a teftimony of your fatisfaction at 
our conduct. 


FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE. 
Sir, Botany Bay, 5th Feb. 1788. 


BEFORE this letter arrives, I flatter myfelf you 
will have received the journal of my voyage from 
Manilla to Kamtfchatka, which I had the honour to 
fend you by M. de Leflèps, who left the harbour of 
St. Peter and St. Paul OGtober 1, 1787. That 
part of our expedition, doubtlefs the moft difficult, 
in feas abfolutely unknown to navigators, has been, 
however, the only one where we have not experienced 
any misfortune. In the fouthern hemifphere the 
moft terrible difafler awaited us. I can only repeat 
here what you will read more at length in my jour- 
nal. Mefits. de Langle and de Lamanon, with ten 
other perfons, have fallen victims to their own hu- 
manity. Had their tendernefs of the life of others 
permitted them to fire on the iflanders before they were 
furrounded, our boats would not have been deftroyed 
by the fury of the favages, and his Majefty would not 
have loft one of the beft officers in the navy. 

Although this event has greatly diminifhed the 
number of our crews, I have not deemed it proper 
to alter the ultimate plan of my cxpedition. I have 
been obliged, however, more haftily to explore the 
various and interefting iflands of the South Sea that 
I might have time to conftruct two boats at Botany 
Bay, and reconnoitre a principal points required 

c 2 in 


388 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


in my inftructions before the change of the mon. 
ei which would render that exploration impoffi- 
ble. 

We have arrived at New Holland without having 
one fick man on board either of our fhips. Eighteen 
of the twenty wounded at Maouna, hs entirely 
recovered ; and M. Lavaux, furgeon of the Afiro- 
labe, who has been trepanned, as well as a failor of 
the fame fhip, are entirely out of danger. 

M. de Monti, fecond captain to M. de Langle, 
continued to command the Aftrolabe till our arrival 
at Botany Bay. He is fo excellent an officer, that I 
did not think it neccffary to make any change in the 
fhip till our arrival in port, where, however, I 
could not overlook the juft claim of M. de Clonard, 
who holds the rank of capitaine de vaiffeau. His place 
on board my fhip has been fupplied by M. de Monti, 
whofe talents and zeal are above all praife, and whofe 
good conduct gives him the faireft title to the cap- 
tain’s commiffion you were pleafed to promife him, 
if theaccounts you fhould receive of him werc favour- 
able. | 

At Botany Bay we were preceded by the Englifh 
only five days. To the moft diftinguifhed polite- 
nefs, they have added every fervice in their power ; 
and it was not without regret that, as foon as we arriv- 
ed, we beheld them depart for Port Jackfon, fifteen 
miles to the northward of Botany Bay. Commodore 
Philip, with great reafon, gave the preference to that 
place, and has left us fole mafters of this bay, where 
our boats are already on the ftocks. By the end of 
the month I expect they will be launched. 

Weare only ten miles diftant from the Englifh by 
land, and confequently enabled to have frequent in- 
tercourfe. It being poffible Commodore Philip may 
make an expedition to the iflands of the South Sea, I 
confidered it my duty to give him the latitude and 
longitude of Maouna, and to guard ‘him againft the 

; perfidious 


of the mon- 
tion impoffi- 


ithout having 
ps. Eighteen 
ave entirely 
of the Afiro- 
as a failor of 


A. de Langle, 
ill our arrival 
officer, that I 
change in the 
>, however, I 
I. de Clonard, 
pau. His place 
M. de Monti, 
ife, and whofe 
le to the cap- 
> promife him, 

werc favour- 


the Englifh 
uifhed polite- 
their power ; 
On as we arriv- 
ackfon, fifteen 
Commodore 
ference to that 
is bay, where 
By the end of 
ed. 
the Englith by 
re frequent in- 
ore Philip may 
te South Sea, I 
e latitude and 
im againft the 
perfidious 


‘OF M. DE LESSEPS, 389 


perfidious careffes he may poffibly receive from the 
inhabitants of that ifland fhould his fhips touch there 
in the courfe of his navigation. 


ee aS 


FROM M. DE LA PEROUSE. 


SIR, Botany Bay, Feb. 7, 1788. 


1 SHALL run upto the Friendly Iflands, and obey 
all my inftructions relative to the fouthern part of 
New Caledonia, the Ifland of Santa Cruz de Menda- 
na, the fouthern coaft of Za Terre des Arfacides of Sur- 
ville, and the Louifiade of Bougainville, examining 
at the famc time whether this laft is or is not a part of 
New Guinea, About the end of July 1788, I fhall 
paf between New Guinea and New Holland by 
another channel than that called Endeavour Strait, 
ifany can be found. During the month of Septem- 
ber and part of October, I fhall vifit the Gulph of Car- 
pentaria, and all the weftern coaft of New Holland 
as far as Van Diemen’s land, but fo that I may bé 
able to get to the northward foon enough to arrive in 
the Ifle of France about the beginning of December 
1788. 


FROM M. DE LESSEPS. 


Sir, Verfuilles, Oct. 31, 1788. 
ON my arrival at Kamtfchatka, I made it my bu- 
fincfs to procure particular information relative to 
the fecret expedition preparing at Okhotfk, and the 
motive of the voyage. Some information I procured 
there may perhaps intereft your curiofity, and afford 
ateltimony of the ardent defire I feel to afford you 
every fatistaction. I take the liberty of adding to it 
other accounts which I think novel, and confequent- 

ly proper to be laid before you. 2e 
Cc3 Mr. Billings 


390 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


M. Billings, who failed with Captain Cook in his 
laft voyage, as an aftronomer, was fent from Eng- 
land to command this expedition, the Emprefs hav- 
ing « {apte for a perfon well informed in this fcience, 
‘On this man her imperial Majefty conferred the rank 
of captain of a fhip of the 2d rate, gave him a 
carte-blanche, and empowered him to examine the fi- 
tuation of the whole of Siberia. She has been ata 
great expence in building and fitting out two 
veffels from Okhotfk, and officers of the Ruffian 
navy have been chofen with orders to repair to Ok- 
hotik, under the command of Mr. Billings, and affitt 
in the conftruiion of the fhips. This expedition was 
in contemplation at the time of the departure of M. 
de la Péroufe, for it was mentioned that he might fall 
in with it perhaps in the northern parts of the South 
Seas. I found it fo little advanced when I was at Ok- 
hotfk on the 8th of May laft, that of one fhip the 
framing was fcarcely finifhed ; and of the other only 
the keel was laid. In all probability thefe fhips can 
with difficulty be gat to fea in the year 1789. Not 
to lofe any time, Mr. Billings determined previoufly 
to equip a few fmall veffels or floops on the river Ko- 
lumé, and having failed down that river in 1787, 
made a voyage in the Frozen Ocean. His firft inten- 
tion was, I imagine, to go by fea to Kamtfchatka, and 
double Capes Svetoi and Tchoukotfkoi, the former of 
which is the only obftacle that navigators have yet 
met with in their voyages. ‘This Mr. Billings was 
not able to overcome, and probably the ice pre- 
vented him from doubling Cape Svetoi. He re- 
turned to the river Kolumé, about the end of the 
fame year, The ice being carried by the north- 
erly winds towards the coaft, forced him to approach 
it very often, and he took advantage of thofe from the 
fouth to continue his voyage, the fea being then more 
practicable. The deftination of the two fhips at Ok- 
hotfk, under the command of Mr. Billings is yet a 
| perfect 


n Cook in his 
it from Eng- 
Emprefs hav- 
in this fcience, 
ferred the rank 
_ gave him a 
xamine the fi- 
has been ata 
ing out two 
of the Ruffian 
repair to Ok- 
lings, and affitt 
expedition was 
parture of M. 
at he might fall 
ts of the South 
en I was at Ok- 
f one fhip the 
f the other only 
hefe fhips can 
ar 1789. Not 
ined previoufly 
n the river Ko- 
river in 1787, 
His firft inten- 
amtfchatka, and 
oi, the former of 
ators have yet 
r. Billings was 
ly the ice pre- 
vetoi. He re- 
the end of the 
by the north- 
im to approach 
of thofe from the 
being then more 
two fhips at Ok- 
billings is yet 4 
perfect 


M. DE LESSEPS. 391 


perfect fecret. Poffibly, according to fome rumours 
that prevail in the country, the captain intends to pafs 
Behring’s Straits, to complete his firft defign, or run 
down the north-weft coaft of America. The fecret 
is, however, fo clofely kept, that my conjectures have 
perhaps little foundation. 

I-take the liberty of prefenting you with two charts 
I ere at Okhotfk. Permit me to have the honour 
of making you this little acknowledgment; and as 
I would not rifk taking copies of them, I hope 
you will be pleafed to order onc to be made for me. 

The firft is a gencrai map, containing the eaftern 
ay of Afia, fome of the Aleutian Iflands, Eamtfchat- 

a, the feas of Okhotfk and Pevitchinka, the Kuriles, 
the extent of the Ruffian difcoveries, and the little 
they know of the Ifland of Segalies, of jeffo, and 
the coaft of Tartary. The other map appears roman- 
tic, and is fo in fact. But notwithftanding its fin- 
gularity, it may afford you pleafure, and the Kuriles 
are, as I am aflured, very well delineated. i nave 
tranflated the articles which appear neceffary to un- 
derftand this chart, but it is not known by whom it 
was conftructed, or who made the voyage. The 
defcription, which I think very improbable, has been 
copied, as well as the chart, from the original, re. 
maining at Okhotfk, where I found nothing elie that 
was more interefting. 

Several veflels have been fof! during the laft year, 
on the coaft of Kamtfchatka, or its vicinity, Among 
others, a fhip belonging to Mr. Lantz, an Englith 
merchant, and commanded by Capt. Peters, was 
wrecked on Copper [fland. A Portuguefe, and a 
Bengal negro, were che only perfons faved ; who, 
after paffing the winter on the ifland, were fent, by 
the Ruffians, to Kamtfchatka, where I faw them. 
They are to be fent, this year, to Peterfburgh, and 
it is probable they will arrive there in two or three 
months. The captain, during his firft ftay at Kamtf- 

Cca chatka, 


392 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


chatka, had contracted with a merchant of the 
country, named Schelikoff, for purchates to the 
amount of 80,000 roubles; and, by this Ruffian, had 
fent to obtain permiflion of the Emprefs to trade in 
this part of her dominions. The fhip was expected 
to return to Kamtfchatka ; but, during the interval, 
he had been on a voyage to the north-weft coaft of 
America, probably to procure furs; and it was not 
till his return, and within a fhort diftance from the 
harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, that he was loft. 
He therefore received no benefit from the permiffion 
he had folicited, though it was immediately granted. 

I found likewife at Kamifchatka nine Japancfe, 
who, for want of a compafs, were driven, in a gale 
of wind, off their own coaft, of which the inhabitants 
take great care never to lofe fight. They had kept 
the fea for fix months in a little coafting vefie!, and 
the firft land they made was the Aleutian Iflands, 
where their only care was to anchor, go on fhore, and 
abandon the veffel. The night, the profpect of bad 
weather, and the efforts of the Ruflians whom they 
met there, all were infufficient to induce them to 
return to the fhip, either to unload her cargo, or 
even bring her to a place of fafety. In fhort, over- 
joyed at being again on fhore, they forgot ail other 
confiderations, and left her to the fury of the winds, 
which during the night drove her on fhore. Only 
a few of the effects were faved; which the Ruffians 
took charge of, and carried to Kamtfchatka, in their 
veflels employed in the fur trade. hither alto they 
carried the nine Japanefe, who are treated there with 
great kindnefs and attention, and will fpeedily be 
fent to Peterfburgh. 

I have the honour to affure you, that the voca- 
bulary of the language of Kamtfchatka, which I 
compofed by the orders of M. de la Péroufe, is as 
correct as I could poffibly make it. You and he 
have the difpofal of it; but Tintreat you to permit 
me 


chant of the 
baies to the 
; Ruffian, had 
fs to trade in 
was expected 
x the interval, 
-weft coaft of 
nd it was not 
ance from the 
t he was loft. 
the permiffion 
ately granted, 
ne Japancfe, 
ven, ina gale 
he inhabitants 
They had kept 
ig veflel, and 
eutian Iflands, 
yon fhore, and 
rofpect of bad 
ns whom they 
duce them to 
her cargo, or 
In fhort, over- 
orgot ail other 
of the winds, 
fhore. Only 
the Ruffians 
hatka, in their 
ither alfo they 
ted there with 
ll fpeedily be 


hat the voca- 
tka, which I 
Péroufe, is as 
You and he 
you to permit 
me 


M. DE LESSEPS. : 303 


me to infert it in my journal, as it will contribute, 
perhaps, to render my narrative more interefting. 
To this I devote myfelf, with the greateft application, 
according to your orders; hoping that I fhall foon 
be able to prefent it to you, and render myfelf more 
worthy of your kindnefs. 

M. de la Péroufe commanded me, in his inftruc- 
tions, to remind you of the obligations he owed to 
Colonel Kafloff-Ougrenin, colonel and commandant 
of Okhotik and Kamtfchatka, who refufed to accept 
payment for feven oxen he gave us for our fhips. 
He regretted he was not able to furnifh the rye 
meal, for which M. de la Péroufe applied, but there 
was none to be found in any of the magazines at 
Kamtfchatka. M. Vañli-Schmalcff, already cele- 
brated in Cook’s voyage, and now infpeétor general 
of Kamtfchatka, has alfo rendered us various fervices, 
as well as Enfign Kaborof, commandant ofthe har- 
bour of St. Peter and St. Paul. M. de la Péroufe 
acknowledges he was as well received by them, as 
if they had been his own countrymen ; and was very 
defirous, while returning thanks to the Ruffian 
court, to procure a recompence for thefe gentlemen, 
adequate à: their fervices. It is well known, the 
Englifh, on their return, made feveral prefents to 
Major Behm, then commandant of Kamtfchatka, 
and the other Ruffian officers in that peninfula ; 
though we have reafon to believe they were not 
treated equally well with us. I am indebted to thefe 
officers for the affiftance they rendered me in my 
journey over land, and I can affure you they pro- 
cured me every aid in their power. M. Kafloff, 
who fhewed a great attachment to me, has given 
me a note of what he hoped from the bounty of the 
Emprefs. Should it be agreeable, I will tranfinit it 
fo you, 


EXTRACTS 


oS > 
= ; 2 \ 
pee Er Mn Ariane A DER aa TR SRE 


CORRESPONDENCE OF 


EXTRACTS OF LETTERS, 


From Meffrs. de la Péroufe and Dagelet, 
to M. Fleurieu. 


FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 


Macao Road, Jan. 3, 1787, 


I SEND you the chart of Monterey, laid down 
by ourfelves. At that place I had no opportunity of 
becoming acquainted with feveral officers of the {mall 
navy of San-Blas, who are certainly not deficient 
in information, and appcared to me very capable of 
taking the moft accurate furveys. | 

You fee I have often changed the plan of my na- 
vigation, as experience and reflection have directed 
me. Itis only in this manner that fo vaft a plan as 
ours can be finally executed. 

For example, I failed from the Sandwich Iflands 
directly to Mount Saint Elias, becaufe had I begun 
with Monterey, and then gone norihward, I fhould 
have been conftantly oppoied by the north wefterly 
winds; while, on the contrary, with the fame winds, 
I was enabled to range along the coaft of America, 
as I came downwards, and follow it at pleafure. But 
the fogs are an inceflantly recurring obftacle, and 
obliged me to lofe confiderable time in the precau- 
tions which prudence conftantly demanded. I do 
not think more than three clear days ‘an there be ex- 
pected in a month. The currents alfo are extremely 
violent, and call for the greateft caution. At Port des 
Français, they occafioned the misfortune of which 
you have been informed by my former letters; à 
inisfortune that will be to me an everlafting fource 
of grief. 

I know 


35 


a Dagelet, 


E. 
, Jan. 3, 1787, 


erey, laid down 
> opportunity of 
cers of the fmall 
y not deficient 
very capable of 


plan of my na- 
1 have directed 
fo vaft a plan as 


andwich Iflands 
fe had I begun 
hward, I fhould 
e north wefterly 
the fame winds, 
patt of America, 
t pleafure. But 
g obftacle, and 
in the precau- 
emanded. Ido 
‘an there be ex- 
o are extremely 
on. At Port des 
rtune of which 
rmer letters; à 
erlafting fource 


I know 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE, 305 


Iknow not whether you will regret that I did not 
more perfectly explore the archipelago of St. Lazarus, 
(if it deferves that name) which, in my opinion, it 
does not. But it muft be obferved, that I dif- 
covered the entrance of it only about the end of 
Auguft, when the das becoming very fhort, we were 
continually furrounued by fogs, and at Cape Hector 
encountered currents running more than fix miles 
an hour. It was therefore impoflible to pafs be- 
tween all thefe iflands in the {pace of two or three 
months; and from the very beginning of September, 
the feafon is over. This furvey, to be complete, 
would require a feparate expedition for that purpofe 
alone, and of not lefs than two or three years dura- 
tion. Nothing is fo tedious as exploring in detail a 
coaft interfperfed with iflands and gulphs, where the 
fogs and currents are fo frequent, fo violent, and fo 
uncertain, that it cannot be approached without 
extreme prudence and precaution. However that 
may be, I entertain not the leaft doubt. the voyage 
of Admiral Fuentes, at leaft as we now have it, is 
greatly exaggerated, if not a mere dream of fiction. 
It is impoffible in fo fhort a time to run over fo vaft 
a fpace as he pretends; and I am tempted to believe 
that Admiral Fuentes, and his Captain Bernarda, 
are chimerical beings, and their narrative of his 
pretended voyage a fable. It is true, however, that 
from Crofs Sound to Cape Fleurieu, the great 
Spanifh navigator Maurillo, Capt. Cook, and myfelf, 
nave only coafted along iflands 40 or 50 leagues dif- 
tant from the continent. This opinion is founded 
on the direction of the continent, which I again 
faw at Cape Fleurieu. Thete iflands are moftly 
of great extent, and as they fhut one within another, 
if | may be allowed the expreflion, this difpofition 
gives them the appearance of a continucd coaft. I 
had frequently fufpeéted the land I perceived was 
not always in the fame plane; but this fufpicion be- 


Came 


306 CORRESPONDENCE UF 


came a Certainty when, doubling Cape Hector, I ran 
20 leagues to the northward. All thefe details, fup. 
pofe you to have before your eyes the charts and 
plansI fend you, and that you follow our route upon 
them as you read my narrative. 

You muft perceive, that on the whole very few 
particulars can be expected from us. In order to 
run over, in four years, all the points indicated in 
my inftructions, we have not a day to lofe. But our 
navigation will furnifh a proof that the health of a 
crew may be preferved during a long continuance 
at fea: for we have arrived at Macao without having 
one man attacked with fcurvy ; though, during a 
voyage of eighteen months, we have paffed fifteen in 
Jaborious navigation, through climates the moft op- 
pofite and various, 

I write to you in hafte, without order, throwing 
my ideas on paper as they arife. I am anchored at 
five miles diftance from the town, with which I have 
yet had no communication; and as I am told a fhip 
wil! fail for Europe to-morrow, I make up my dif- 
patches poft hafte. To the letters I fend the minifter, 
T have added my narrative, and my charts and plans. 
I fhall fend him duplicates the firft opportunity, that, 
if any accident happen to us on the coaft of T'artary, 
the beginning, at leaft, of our voyage may be of fome 
utility to navigators. You will furely remark, with 
pleafure, in reading my journal, that if from the 
favages we have vifited fome injurics have been re- 
ceived, we have fortunately done them no mifchicf. 
You know better than any other perfon how ex- 
prefsly it was enjoined me not to employ force but 
on the laft extremity, and are no lefs acquainted that 
it is a fentiment long cherifhed in my heart. 

P.S. We have purchafed, on the coaft of Ame- 
rica, nearly 1000 otter {kins ; but the greater num. 
ber are in ftrips, and almoft rotten. In this traffick 


I have ufed a fcrupulous delicacy, unknown se: 
the 


> Hector, I ran 
fe details, fup- 
he charts and 
our route upon 


whole very few 

In order to 
ts indicated in 
) lofe. But our 
he health of a 
g continuance 
without having 
ugh, during a 
affed fifteen in 
s the moft op- 


rder, throwing 
im anchored at 
h which I have 
am told a fhip 
ke up my dif- 
id the minifter, 
arts and plans. 
ortunity, that, 
aft of ‘Tartary, 
ay be of fome 
remark, with 
t if from the 
have been re- 
m no mifchicf. 
rfon how ex- 
loy force but 
equainted that 
heart. 
coaft of Ame- 
greater num: 
In this traffick 
known among 
the 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 307 


the purchafes of former navigators along this coaft. 
Not a fingle fkin was purchafed, but by M. Du- 
frefne. I entrufted him with the conduét of this 
trade, and he has acquitted himfelf of this delicate 
commiffion with great zeal and intelligence. | 

He has numbered and regiftered every fkin, and 
will fell them here for the profit of the failors. I 
fhall tranfmit the accounts to the minifter, as a fu- 
percargo would to his employer; annexing the re- 
ceipts of all thofe to whom moncy has been paid. 
I would not permit a fingle fkin to be referved for 
the officers, the men of fcience, the artifts, or my- 
felf. The profit of the voyage ought to be the 
property of the failors *, and the glory, if there be 
any, the reward of the officers and their affiftants, 
who have conducted the expedition. I declare to 
you, my dear friend, that I would not have un- 
dertaken this voyage, for one hundred thoufand 
crowns paid down, though I have not hefitated to en- 
gage in it as a duty, influenced by the gratitude I feel 
for the confidence that has been placed, doubtlefs 
rather in my zeal than my talents. 


Manilla, 8th April, 1787. 


I DO not give you, my dear friend, any particulars 
of my voyage; you have before you my letters to 
the minifter, and I flatter myfelf, you have read my 
narrative with no fmall intereft. We are certainly 
the firft navigators who in the fame year, have gone 
as far as Mount St. Elias, after vifiting Eafter Ifland, 
the Sandwich Iflands, and inveftigated feveral other 
points in geography. Our chaits, plans, and journals, 
the tables of our route, &c. will fufficiently prove, we 


* The fkins were fold for 10,000 piaftres, for the benefit of: the 
(res. French Editor, 
have 


398 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


have neglected nothing that could contribute to the 
accuracy of our various labours. 

The part of our tafk that remains to be executed 
this year, is the moit difficult. The information we 
could obtain of China, concerning the coaft of that 
empire we are going to furvey, extends only certainly 
to confirm the violence of the currents in thofe ftraits, 
and to afliire us we fhall meet with feveral banks, and 
almoft continual fogs. 

But, perfuaded that patience and perfevering in- 
duftry will conquer all things, thefe obftacles only 
ferve to inflame my ardour, and I place the greatefi 
confidence in my good fortune. 


Awatfcha, 10th Sept. 1787, 


I WRITE to you, my dear friend, without any 
order, only determining not to omit any thing. 

The minifter muft alrcady have received by the 
hands of M. Dufrefne, the particulars of our voyage, 


fince our departure from France till our arrival at 
Macao; and by M. Leffeps I tranfmit the fequel of 
the narrative from Macao to Kamtfchatka. 

I hope you will be pleafed with that part of our 
voyage between Macao and Kamtfchatka. It is the 
moft novel, the moft interefting, and on account of 
the continual fogs which prevail in thefe latitudes, 
certainly the moft difficult. Thefe fogs were {0 
great, that I have been obliged to confume 150 days 
in exploring that part of the coaft which Captain 
King, in the third volume of Captain Cook’s laft voy- 
age, fuppofed might be furveyed in two months. 
Yet I have only refted three days in Baie de Ternai, 
two in Langle Bay, and five in Caftrics’ Bay. I have 
therefore not loft any time; nor have I neglected to 
fail round the Ifland of Chicha, paffing through the 
Strait of Sangaar. I could have wifhed to have a 

chore 


ntribute to the 


to be executed 
nformation we 
e coaft of that 
only certainly 
in thofe firaits, 
eral banks, and 


perfevering in- 
; obftacles only 
ce the greateft 


Oth Sept. 1787. 


d, without any 

ny thing. 
eceived by the 
of our voyage, 
| our arrival at 
t the fequel of 

atka. 

hat part of our 
atka. It is the 
1 on account of 
thefe latitudes, 
e fogs were {fo 
fume 150 days 
which Captain 
ook’s laft voy- 
two months. 
Baie de Ternai, 
s Bay. Ihave 
I neglected to 
ng through the 
1ed to have an- 
chored 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 309 


chored off the northern point of Japan, and fhould, 
perhaps, have rifked fending a boat afhore, although 
{uch a ftep required ferious confideration, as it pro- 
bably might have been detained. Such an accident, 
though to a merchant fhip but of little importance, 
might be confidered as a national infult, when offer- 
ed to the boat of a fhip in his majefty’s fervice. To 
feize and burn a few fampanes, would have been a 
poor retaliation, upon a people who would not ex- 
change one European of whom they wifhed to make 
an example, for a hundred Japanefe. However that 
may be, I had no opportunity to make the experi- 
ment, and it is impoffible to fay, at this moment, what 
I fhould have done, had it been feafible. 

It would be difficult to depict the fatigues we have 
undergone, in this part of our voyage, during all 
which I have not been undreffed, or enjoyed four 
nights without being obliged to walk the deck for 
feveral hours. Figure to yourfelf fix days of fog, 
with only two or three hours of clear weather, in the 
narroweft feas, abfolutely unknown, where the ima-. 
gination exaggerating the information we had re- 
ceived, painted to itfelf danger and currents, where 
fometimes they had no exiftence. From the point 
where we landed, on the eaftern coaft of Tartary, to 
the ftrait we difcovered between the ifland of Tcho- 
ka, and that of Chicha, we omitted not the bearings of 
one point, and you may be affured, not a creek, 
a harbour, or a river, has efcaped us. You may alfo 
be confident, that there are many charts of European 
coafts, lefs accurate than thofe we fhall bring home 
at our return *, ‘The chart annexed to this difpatch, 
is in a manner only a fketch, very carefully made in- 
deed, but in which the pofition of. fome points may 


of thofe we poffefs, confiderably diminifhes the lofs geography has 
to deplore. —French Editer. 


va ry 


* Unfortunately thefe charts have not arrived, having fhared — 
the fate of our enterprifing navigators. But what la Péroufe fays. 


400 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


vary from the exact truth, about 10 or 12 minutes of 
longitude. | 

We have then at length decided the famous quef. 
tion concerning Jeflo, Oku-Jeflo, the Strait of 
Tefloy, &c. with which geographers have been fo 
long occupied. Neither have I neglected any thing 
that could offer a true idea of the people who inhabit 
thefe iflands and the continent. 

The Ruflians have thought it moft convenient to 
efface thefe iflands from their charts, though they 
are ten times as extenfive as their Kurile Iflands, 
which are nothing more than barren rocks, whofe po- 
pulation does not exceed 3,000. The fogs prevented 
me from laying down the Kuriles to the northward of 
Mareckan, as far as Point Lopatka. But propofeto 
furvey them on leaving the bay of Awatfcha, though it 
appears unimportant, the Englifh having determined 
the point of Paramoufir, and ourfelves that of the 
north of Marcckan. ‘The iflands between thefe two 
points cannot be placed on the chart with any great 
error. 

. You will perceive that our labours on this coaft, 
connect afionifhingly well with thofe of the Dutch, 
whofe navigation is, perhaps, the moft exact of any, 
up to the time of the Kaftricum’s voyage. You will 
find among the papers I fend the minifter, the chart 
you gave me, of the difcoveries of Captain Vrics, 
That navigator did not fufpect there was any fea be- 
hind the land he was coafling, and, ftill lefs any ftrait 
to the northward of the village of Acqucis, before 
which he was at anchor. From his relation it night 
be inferred, that the people of Tchoka and Chicha, 
were abfolutely the fame, fince quitting Acqueis, and 
arriving at Aniva, he did not fufpeét he was no long- 
_er on the fame ifland. 

Another advantage arifing to us from the Dutch 
voyage, is its having furnifhed us with the breadth of 
the ifland of Tchoka, as far as Cape Patience, and even. 
. beyond ; 


Bn hh ae ee OL PETER CORP CT EP Le CT ee | . 


D ON GT DR + UP 


12 minutes of 


e famous quef. 
the Strait of 
; have been fo 
éted any thing 
le who inhabit 


convenient to 
, though they 
Kurile Iflands, 
cks, whofe po- 
fogs prevented 
ie northward of 
But I propofe to 
fcha, though it 
ing determined 
es that of the 
ween thefe two 
with any great. 


on this conf, 

ofthe Dutch, 

exact of any, 
age. You will 
ifter, the chart 
Captain Vrics. 
vas any fea be- 
1 lefs any firait 
Acqueis, before 
lation it might 
a and Chicha, 
p Acqueis, and 
e was no long- 


om the Dutch 
the breadth of 
ence, and even. 
beyond ; 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE, 7 401 


beyond ; for the longitudes taken by the Dutch, from 
the-meridian of Cape Nabo are nearly exact. 

On your chart, which I fend the minifter, I have 
drawn the ftrait we difcovered, through the midft of 
the Dutch mountains, and have traced our route in 
fight of Staten Ifland, from the {trait of Vries; and 
Companiy’s Land. à Jae sie 

In reading my nartative with the chart before you, 
you will furely remark, that I might have fol- 
lowed the coaft of Corea as far as the 424 degree. 
This would have been a much eafier, and per- 
haps a more brilliant undertaking, than that I have 
performed; but I thought it more important,. to 
determine with accuracy, a point of Japan which 
would give us the breadth of the fea of Tartary, and 
alfo that of the ifland from Cape Nabo. I am fure you 
willapprove what I have done, while you regret as I do, 
that circumftances did not permit me more complete- 
ly to explore the coaft of Japan. But, my dear 
friend, do not forget while examining the operations 
of our voyage, do not, I befeech you forget, thofe 
everlafting fogs, that would not permit me to do in 
a month; what in the fine fkies under the tropics, 
might have been effected in three days.  Recolleét 
alfo, that without the beneficial ftorm, which in 
the flraits of Tartary, gave us 48 hours of northerly 
winds, we fhould not have arrived this year, in 
Kamtfchatka. ae 

Though we have not accomplifhed every thing, I 
am convinced, more could fcarcely have been per- 
formed. Our voyage may now, therefore, hold the 
next rank to the Englifh ; though I did not hope fo 
much on my return from the coaft of America, fince 
we were compelled to run over it fo rapidly. But fe- 
veral expeditions will fcarcely be fufficient to give 
the particulars, even from Crofs Sound to Port San 
Francifco. Figure to yourfelf every league bays 
whofe depth cannot be meafured, becaufe their heads 
Vou. II. Dd are 


402 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


are beyond the reach -of fight ; currents like thofe of 
le Four and Je Raz on the coaft of Brittany, and fogs 
almoft perpetual. Hence you will conclude that a 
whole feafon is fcarcely fufficicnt for completcly ex- 
ploring in ve point, even 20 leagues of fuch a 
coaft, nor would I engage to give an exact and parti- 
cular account, after fix months labour, of the coun. 
try between Crofs Sound and Port Bucarelli, fill lef 
as far as Cape Hedlor, which would require feveral 
years. I have therefore been compelled to attempt 
nothing more, than to lay down the latitudes and lon. 
gitudes of the principal capes, to trace and delineate 
the true direction of the coaft, from one point to 
another, and determine the geographical pofition of 
the iflands that lie feveral leagues diftant from the 
continent. The vaft plan of our voyage did not 
permit me to undertake any greater operation, 
Captain Cook has, perhaps, not even done fo much 
on this coaft. Not that I would in the leaft detract 
from the merit of that celebrated navigator ; but, op- 
pofed by contrary winds, and like me, confined with- 
in certain limits of time, which prevented him from 
extending his difcoveries, he failed at a greater dif- 
tance from the coaft, than circumftances made it ne- 
ceffary for me io do; and when he approached it in 
the neighbourhood of Cook’s River, and Prince Wil- 
liam’s Sound, it was with an expectation, which 
though I think it ill founded, he never abandoned, 
of getting away to the northward, and running after 
his favourite object, a paflage into Baffin’s Bay or 
Davis's Strait. His furvey of Prince William’s Sound, 
ftill leaves much to be defired; but I muñ repeat, 
that fuch inveftigations require much more time, 
than either he or I could devote to our refearches. 
At Manilla, I procured the journal ofa voyage, by 
the famous Spanifh pilot Don Francifco Antonio 
Maurillo, ‘on the N. W. coaft of America. Thus, 
adding his journal to-that-of the firft voyage of the 
| | Spaniards 


i ee ae ae 


te OO où 


HEC TSS He 


ts like thofe of 
ttany, and fo 
en that’, 
completcly ex- 
rues of fuch a 
xact and parti- 
r, of the coun. 
carelli, ftill lef 
require feveral 
led to attempt 
titudes and lon- 
e and delineate 
m one point to 
tical pofition of 
iftant from the 
voyage did not 
eater operation. 
1 done fo much 
the leaft detract 
igator ; but, op- 
, confined with- 
rented him from 
at a greater dif- 
ces made it ne- 
approached it in 
and Prince Wil- 
eétation, which 
ever abandoned, 
d running after 
Baffin’s Bay or 
illiam’s Sound, 
t I mufi repeat, 
uch more time, 
ur refearches. 
il of a voyage, by 
ancifco Antonio 
America. ‘Thus, 
voyage of the 
. Spaniards 


M. DE LA PEROUSE. 403 


Spaniards in thofe parts, which Mr, Barrington has 
publifhed in his Mifcellanies, and of which I have a 
tranflated extract among the notes you were pleafed 
to collect for m inftragtion, we are pofleffed of ail 
the fecrets of Maurillo. I left this navigator at Man- 
illa, in the command of one of the veflels belonging 
to the New Company, deftined for a coafting voy- 
age from Cavita to Canton. I fend you a very par- 
ticular chart of Port Bucarelli and the neighbourin 
iflands, which I procured at Manilla. The Spaniards 
in their fecond voyage, penctrated as far as Prince 
William’s Sound, and thinking themfelves on the 
coaft of Kamtfchatka, were every inftant afraid of 
being attacked by the Ruffians. I do not fend you 
their general chart, becaufe in fact it would rather 
retard than advance the progrefs of geography. Do 
they wifh to deceive others, or do they deceive them- 
felves ? Be this as it may, they only faw the land 
near Port Bucarelli, and at the entrance of Prince 
William’s Sound. 

To the charts of this fecond part of my voyage, I 
] have added particular plans drawn by M. Blondela, 
one of the lieutenants of the Aftrolabe, who works 
with an affiduity, intelligence, order, and neatnefs, 
deferving the higheft encomiuins. 

You will find among the plans nine very accurate 
drawings from the hand of M. Duché. To thefe M. 
Blondela has added a view of the harbour of St. Peter 
and St. Paul, taken at a different point of view from 
that inferted in Captain Cook’s third voyage, and a 
collection of drawings of the different failing veflels 
ufed by the various people whom we have vifited. 
This colleAion is very interefting, and deferves to be 
engraved. | : 

I fhall leave Awatfcha on the firft of Oétober, 
where we have been reccived with the greateft marks 
of affegtion ; but. the fhip from Okhotfk has probably 

D d 2 been 


404 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


been loft in the paflage*, and the Governor of 
Kamtfchatka, though extremely willing, has not been 
able to fupply us with a fingle cheft of flour. This 
want will ob ige me to put into Guaham, for the pur- 
pofe of procuring a fupply there. 

The following is the future plan of my voyage, fub- 
ject however, from time to time, to the change of 
circumftances and events that cannot be forefeen, 

You know IJ have already inverted a part of the 
firft plan laid down in my inftrutions; in conformi- 
ty to the permiffion I received. I thought it would 
be more expeditious to begin with the northern he- 
mifphere, and conclude with that of the fouth, as 
my courfe muft terminate by putting into the Ifle 
of France, fituated to the fouthward of the line. I 
confefs 1 was alfo afraid of being anticipated by the 
Englifh, who, previous to my departure, had an- 
nounced the project of a new voyage of difcovery. | 
was particularly apprehenfive for the coaft of Tartary, 
&c. the only abfolutely unknown part I was deftined 
to explore, and where I would not, for any confidera- 
tion. in the world have been anticipated. 

On quitting Awatfcha I fhall direét my courfe to 
the Kuriles, and endeavour to determine the pofi- 
tion of thofe iflands as far as the Canal de la Boufiole. 
I fhall then run down the parallel of 37°, to fearch for 
the land faid to have been difcovered by the Spa- 
niards in 1610, I fhall next afcend again to the 
northward of the Marianas, and the archipelago of 
the latter as far as Guaham, where I fhall put in to 
procure provifions. I fhall only pafs five days at 
Guaham, and then direct my courfe to the Carolines. 
Should I fee a profpeét, after quitting thefe iflands, 
of making Cape Choifeul, in the Terre des Arfacides 
of Surville, and of pafling through Bougainville's 
Strait; 1 fhall then run to the northward, where! 
‘may fall in with the wefterly winds, &c. 


* See the journal of M. Lefleps.——French Editor. 


e Governor of 
g, has not been 
of flour. This 
im, for the pur- 


my voyage, fub- 
o the change of 
t be forefeen. 
da part of the 
18; in conformi- 
hought it would 
he northern he- 
of the fouth, as 
ng into the Ifle 
1 of the line. I 
nticipated by the 
parture, had an- 
ze of difcovery. I 
coaft of Tartary, 
rt I was defined 
or any confidera- 
bated. 
ect my courfe to 
ermine the pofi- 
al de la Bouffole. 
37°, to fearch for 
red by the Spa- 
nd again to the 
1e archipelago of 
I fhall put in to 
pafs five days at 
e to the Carolines. 
ing thefe iflands, 
erre des Arfucides 
rh Bougainvilles 
nthward, where I 
&c. 


French Editor. 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 405 


If, on the contrary, from the information I receive 
at Guaham, and my obfervations during the pafläge, 
I fhall be convinced that by making the Cuarolines 
we fhould run too much to windward to arrive at 
New Zealand by the 1ft of February, 1788, I thall 
abandon the Carolines, as being of little importance, 
and fteer as much to the caftward as poffible. I 
fhall vifit every thing I meet with in my way; 
and this track, which is abfolutely new, muft occa- 
fion me to fall in with fome unknown iflands, per- 
haps of much greater confequence than the Caro- 
lines. Either plan will permit to arrive, about the 1 ft 
of February, in Queen Charlotte’s Straits. Thence 
I fhall employ fix months in exploring the Friendly 
Iflands to procure refrefhments, the fouth-wettern 
coaft of New Caledonia, the ifland of Santa Cruz de 
Mendana, the fouthern coaft of La Terre des Arfa- 
cides, and La Louifiade, as far as New Guinea, where 
I fhall feek for another channel than the Endeavour 
Straits. I fhall employ the months of Auguft, Sep- 
tember, and part of October, in vifiting the gulph of 
Carpentaria, and the weft coaft of New Holland, 
but fo managing my operations that I may eafily 
afcend to the northward to reach the tropic, and ar- 
rive at the Ifle of France by the end of November. 

Quitting the Ifle of France, about the 25th of 
December, 1788, I fhall fteer for Cape Circumcifion, 
whence I fhall return to France, touching at the 
Cape of Good Hope or not, according to circum- 
flances ; and I hope to arrive in Breft in June 1789, 
forty-fix or forty-feven months after my departure 
from that port. 

This is my new plan, in which you will fee that I 
cannot introduce either the coaft of New Holland, 
or Van Dieman’s Land, whence I could not make 
the Ufle of France, on account of the wefterly winds, 
without going entirely round the whole of the former. 
That courfe appears far too long and impracticable : 

: Dd3 the 


\ 


406 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


the ftate of our rigging, and even of our fhips, would 
not permit me to undertake it. 

I have made no mention of the Society Iflands, 
becaufe they are fo well known already as no longer 
to attract curiofity ; and it is perhaps meritorious in 


a commander, certainly it is for the benefit of his 


crews, to make the circuit of the world without 
touching at Otaheite. You know alfo that the So- 
ciety and Friendly Iflands, and thofe of Mendana, 
and others already well known, were only inferted in 
my inftructions as refources, leaving me at liberty, in 
cafe of need, to put in at thefe iflands, for the pur- 
pofe of procuring refrefhments ; but I either can or 
will do without them. I fhall not, however, forget 
that you recommended it to me as important to the 
improvement of geography, to determine the true po- 
fition of fome of the points furveyed by Lord Car- 
teret, in order to have certain data for correcting 
the errors in the reckoning throughout the courfe of 
that navigator, who was deftitute of time-keepers, 
and feems to have made very few aftronomical obfer- 
vations. 

The fame Francifco Antonio Maurillo, the 
Cook of the Spaniards, though, in my opinion, 
far inferior to that circumnavigator, made a third 
voyage, in the commencement of the year 1781, 
from Manilla to North America, where he intended 
to reach a high fouthern latitude, that he might af- 
terwards get to the eaftward with the wefterly winds 
that blow in the neighbourhood of New Zealand; 
but for want of provifions he could not execute his 
plan, and was obliged to run to the northward, to- 
wards the Marianas, where he took the ufual track 
of the galleons to arrive at San Blas. I fend you the 
journal of this third voyage, in which Maurillo fup- 
poled he had made feveral difcoveries, only becaute 

e was unacquainted with thofe of the modern na- 
vigators.” At firft I wifhed to keep this journal, to 
afcertain 


our fhips, would 


Society Iflands, 
dy as no longer 
s meritorious in 
> benefit of his 
world without 
Ifo that the So- 
fe of Mendana, 
only inferted in 
me at liberty, in 
Is, for the pur- 
.I either can or 
however, forget 
mportant to the 
nine the true po- 
1 by Lord Car- 
\ for correcting 
ut the courfe of 
of time-keepers, 
ronomical obfer- 


Maurillo, the 
in my opinion, 
r, made a third 
the year 1781, 
ere he intended 
at he might af- 
e wefterly winds 
New Zealand ; 
not execute his 
 northward, to- 
the ufual track 

I fend you the 
th Maurillo fup- 
es, only becaufe 
the modern na- 
) this journal, to 

afcertain 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 407 


afcertain whether Maurillo had aétually difcovered 
any. new land in the vicinity of the Friendly Iflands, 
where the natives inforin us there exift a great num- 
ber of others, which they are themfelves acquainted 
with, but which Europeans have not reconnoitred ; 
but, on examination, I found it would only lead me 
into error. The chart is an undigefted chaos of con- 
fufion, the narrative ill arranged, the longitudes de- 
duced from a reckoning more erroneous than total 
uncertainty, and the latitudes very ill obf:rved, 

I have procured an excellent chart of Manilla, 
and fome other interefting plans. You will readily 
believe it was not without great difficulty, and mak- 
ing fome facrifices, I have fuccceded in obtaining 
them ; for you know the Spaniards are far from com- 
municative, though, in fait, they have more to learn 
than they can teach. Other maritime nations have 
been eager to publifh to all Europe what thefe peo- 
ple would have veiled from our fight in r:yfterious 
obfcurity. At Manilla I had occafion to confirm 
the opinion I had formed of their pufillanimous 
and ufelefs circumfpection. The governor of the 
ifland is in poffeffion of a chart from Manilla and 
Kamtfchatka, which, on the flightcft infpection, I 
difcovered to be nothing more than the French chart 
of Bellin, on a larger fcale. You know the cha- 
rafer of our hydrographer, and the errors of this 
chart, lefs accurate perhaps than any other of the 
fame author. The governor would not permit 
me to infpect it but for a moment, and at fome dif- 
tance, fo great was his fear left my mere fhould be 
good enough to get a copy of it made from recol- 
leétion. I thought his apprehenfions fo puerile, that 
forgetting for the moment his importance, I could 
not refrain from telling him, that in a little time I 
fhould know more than he or his charts could ever 
teach me. 

If you will take the trouble of afcertaining the 

D d 4 aggregate 


AO8 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


aggregate of my flay in port, fince the If of 
Auguft, 1785, the time of my departure from Breft, 
to the 7th of September, 1787, when I arrived at 
Kamtfchatka, you will fec, that in that interval } 
have employed only five months and thirteen days in 
the different harbours, and twenty-five months in na- 
vigation. You will learn alfo with pleafure, that not- 
withftanding the fatigues and privations infeparable 
from fo long a nayigation, not a fingle man has died 
on board my fhip, and nor have we a man fick. 
The Aftrolabe has loft one officer, but his death was 
occafioned by his own imprudence, and by no means 
a confequence of the fatigues and dangers of the 
voyage. You may be affured the attention of Cap- 
tain Cook to his crew was not greater or more 
conftant than is inceflantly paid by M. de Langle 
and myfelf, to the prefervation of the valuable men 
who participate our labours ; and if at the end of our 
voyage we continue to enjoy the fame good fortune, 
we fhall add another inftance to thofe adduced by 
Cook, to prove that with care and judicious regi- 
men, feamen may be preferved from fcurvy and other 
difeafes, apparently infeparable from a long continu- 
ance at fea; but thefe repeated experiments will 
afford no conclufion, applicable to fhips of the line, 
with 800, ‘000, or 1200 men, often recruited with 
convalefcents from hofpitals, and whom it is impofli- 
ble to feed in the fame manner as a crew of 100 
men, chofen for a particular expedition, on Moifar, 
flour of the firft quality, and Cahors or Teneriffe 
wines, at 600 livres the tun, or to adminifter all 
the antifcorbutics which the fciences of medi- 
cine and natural hiftory have combined. It muft 
alfo be obferved, that the fmall fpace allotted toa 
great number of men on board large fhips, does not 
admit of ‘a large roomy hammock for each ; and that 
the officers are not fufficiently numerous to extend 
their infpection, however active it may be, to every 

particular 


> the 1f nf 
re from Breft, 
I arrived at 
at interval | 
irteen days in 
months in na- 
ure, that not- 
1s infeparable 
man has died 
a man fick. 
his death was 
by no means 
ingers of the 
ntion of Cap- 
iter or more 
1. de Langle 
valuable men 
he end of our 
good fortune, 
e adduced by 
idicious regi- 
rvy and other 
ong continu- 
eriments will 
ps of the line, 
ecruited with 
it is impofñli- 
A crew of 100 
, on Moiffac, 
s or Teneriffe 
adminitter all 
s of medi- 
‘d. It muft 
allotted toa 
ips, does not 
ch ; and that 
bus to extend 
y be, to every 
particular 


M. DE LA PEROUSE. 40Q 


articular item, apparently minute and trifling; fuch 
as making the failors regularly change their linen, 
to preferye thefe brave fellows from the indolence na- 
tural to man with regard to the cleanlinefs of his 
perfon ; a fpecics of indolence which is rarely over- 
come, but when roufed to fupport fatigue, or to en- 
counter difficulty and danger. 

In addition to all thefe various and continual cares, _ 

I have been attentive to touch at every place where I 
could be affured of procuring excellent provifion for 
my crews, without regarding the expence, as at La 
Conception, Chili, Monterey in California, Macao, 
Manilla, &c. I was of opinion that it was a part of 
the difcoveries to be made in this expedition to afcer- 
tain whether men perfectly well fed and well at- 
tended to, can fuftain the fatigues of the longeft na- 
vigations, under all climates, in all latitudes, in the 
midft of fogs, and under a burning fun. At prefent 
I can anfwer in the affirmative; but my voyage is 
yet far from concluded. May our conftant. cares 
and unceafing zeal be ever recompenfed with the like 
fuccefs ! ; 


STS 
é a 


Awatfcha, 25th Sept. 1787. 


1 SEND you, my dear friend, a memoir written by 
M. Rollin, furgeon of the Bouflole. When you have 
read it, you will doubtlefs be of opinion, that it 
ought to conftitute a part of the collection of 
memoirs and other works, which our learned men 
refpectively prepare, according to their various de- 
partments. M. Rollin is a man of the moft exalted 
merit. In twenty-fix months, he has neither loft a 
fingle man, nor has at prefent one fick individual 
under his care. He is unremittingly occupied in 
examining, preferving, and improving our provifions, 
and in general every branch of preventive medicine, 
which 


410 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


which I efteem infinitely more beneficial than the 
curative. 

Annexed is a table of the latitudes and longitudes 
of the various points of our chart of the Archipelago 
of Corea, Eaftern Tartary, &c. The longitudes are 
corrected for each het te from a mean of longi- 
tudes obtained by lunar obfervations, taken when 
the moon was to the eaftward, and longitudes deduc- 
ed when it was to the weftward of the fun. In thofe 
different cafes we have always found a difference 
of from 20 to 26 minutes in the refults on board 
each fhip. This can only be attributed to an error 
in the tables : which, in the opinion of M. Dagelet, 
require correction. In general, you muft confider 
our prefent accounts of this part of our voyage, as 
yather an unfinifhed work, requiring, perhaps, fome 
trifling revifion. | 

We have found here the tomb of M. de Lifle de 
Ja Croyére, on which I have placed an infcription, 
engraved on copper. It is, perhaps, unknown in 
France, that this learned man married in Ruffia, 


and has left a family, who enjoy all the confideration 
due to the memory of their anceftor. His grand fon 
is counfellor of the Siberian mines, a place which 
produces him confiderable emolument. 


ENED 


Awatfcha, Sept. 28, 1787. 


I WRITE to you again, my dear friend, to inform 
you of the receipt of the letters, which have arrived 
by the way of Okhotfk, on the eve of my departure*. 
I am treated with fuch kindnefs and diftinétion, as 
neither my zeal nor my fervices can ever deferve. 


* His commiffion of Chef d’efcadre was inclofed in thefe letters. 
which the Ruffian court had undertaken to convey tu him at Kamtf- 
chatka.—Prench Editer. Th 

€ 


icial than the 


ind longitudes 
e Archipelago 
longitudes are 
nean of longi- 
s, taken when 
ritudes deduc- 
fun. In thofe 
1 a difference 
ults on board 
ed to an error 
of M. Dagelct, 
muft confider 
our voyage, as 
perhaps, fome 


M. de Lifle de 
an infcription, 
. unknown in 
ied in Ruffia, 
e confideration 
His grand fon 
a place which 


bept. 28, 1787. 


end, to inform 

th have arrived 
vy departure*. 
diftinétion, as 
er deferve. 


fed in thefe letters. 
y ty him at Kamtf- 


The 


M. DAGELET. All 


The orders I have juft received, will make no 
alteration in the future plan of my voyage, only that 
I fhall put into Botany Bay, on the eaftern coaft of 
New Holland. This ufeful object I fhould have 
miffed, had I begun with the fouthern hemifphere. 
But the chief advantage Î derive from my prefent 
courfe, is that Iam now certain of not being anti- 
cipated by any Englith fhip on the coaft of Tartary, 
&c. I know thofe fent from India have paffed to 
the cafiward of Japan. The largeft of them was loft 
on Copper Ifland, near that of Behring, and only 
two of her men faved, with whom I had fome 
converfation, before they were fent to Pcterfburgh 
by land. 

The veffel conftructing at Okhotfk, intended by 
the Ruffians for a voyage of difcovery in thefe feas, 
is fcarccly on the ftocks, and poffibly may not be 
ready for fea in lefs than three or four years. 

Adieu, I fhall depart to-morrow in good health, 
as well as my whole crew. We would fail round 
the world fix times over, if our voyage could afford 
either advantage or pleafure to our native country. 


FROM M. DAGELET. 
Botany Bay, February 5, 1788. 


I HAVE given M. de la Péroufe, to be inclofed 
in his detters to the minifter, a table, containing the 
longitudes and latitudes, by obfervation on board, 
between our departure from Kamtfchatka and the 
day of our anchoring in Botany Eay. ‘The commo- 
dore has inftructed me to give vou fome account of 
this part of our performance, and 1 fhall comply with 
his requeft, though perhaps unnecefläry, with the 
more pleafure, as it will be rather an opportunity of 
recominending myfelf to your friendfhip and recol- 
leGion, than a ufeful aftronomical diflertation. 

I have 


412 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


I have divided the table into four columns. The 
firft includes the daily longitude, by the time-keeper 
N° 19, taking its rate as determined at the Bay of 
Awatfcha. The fecond column includes the correc- 
tions neceffary to be made in thefe longitudes, to 
obtain the exact longitude, as we have determined 
it at different times, by a great number of fets of 
lunar obfervations. I have endeavoured to execute 
them with all the accuracy poffible, from a few days 
preceding our making Navigators’ Ifland, till our 
arrival at Botany Bay ; and I think thcre is very little 
uncertainty in any thing regarding the truly geo- 
graphical points of the Jands we have feen. The 
third column exhibits the true longitudes, and the 
fourth the latitudes carefully determined. | 


FROM M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 
| Botany Bay, February 7, 1788. 


IT feems decreed by fate that I fhall never have 
any thing, my dear friend, but misfortunes to relate 
to you; and that my utmoft prudence muft con- 
ftantly be fruftrated, by events impoñlible to be fore- 
feen, but of which I have always had a kind of 
fecret prefentiment. I confefs I have to reproach 
myfelf for having yielded, almoft in fpite of myfelf, 
on that unfortunate day, the 11th of December laf, 
to the importunity, I might even fay the uncom- 
mon obftinacy of M. de Langle, who aflerted that 
frefh water, waier newly cafked, was the beft antif- 
corbutic, and that his crew would be all attacked 
with the fcurvy !:.fore our arrival at New Holland, 
if he did not provide himfelf with frefh water. I 
have arrived here, however, without a fick man, 
though our crews have drunk nothing but old water; 
and I am convinced that water, if it be Boos 1 

equally 


lumns. The 
e time-keeper 
at the Bay of 
es the correc- 
ongitudes, to 
e determined 
ber of fets of 
"4 to execute 
m a few days 
land, till our 
e is very little 
he truly geo- 
e feen. The 
| es and the 
d. 


uary 7, 1788. 


1 never have 
unes to relate 
e muft con- 
ble to be fore- 
ad a kind of 
e to reproach 
bite of myfelf, 
ecember laf, 
the uncom- 
aflerted that 
he beft antif- 
all attacked 
ew Holland, 
fh water. I 
a fick man, 
ut old water; 
be good, is 
equally 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE, 413 


equally falubrious, whether new or old*. In m 
narrative you will read the particulars of the unfor- 
tunate event at the Iflands of Navigators, which 
has fo deeply affected my fenfibility that it would be 
a torture to relate it again. You will furely think 
it inconceivable that a man of the greateft good 
fenfe, the matureft judgment, full of information, 
and poffeffed of every kind of knowledge, fhould 
refer an unfafe place, ‘where his long-boats were 
left dry by the ebb of the tide, to a well-known 
extenfive bay, where the water was excellent. Two 
thoufand Indians, who furrounded. them, tore their 
boats to pieces, after maflacring all the men who 
had not time to take refuge in the boats that lay 
afloat at the edge of the reefs ; while the fhips were 
peaceably bartering with the natives, two lcagues in 
the offing, where moft afluredly we were far from 
fufpecting the probability of fuch an accident. 

Thirty Indians were killed on (hore, on that fatal 
day, by the people of our long-boats, when they 
found themfelves attacked ; and had I not reftrained 
the juft fury of our crews, they might have maffa- 
cred 500 more, who were difperfed over our two 
fhips, or crowding the canoes that furrounded them. 
Thefe canoes, which werc bartering along-fide in per- 
fect fecurity, might have been funk ; but I thought 
that fuch barbariiy would neither repair our misfor- 
tune, nor confole us for our lofs; and it is not 
admiffible to commit violence but when abfolutely 
neceflary. 

Near this part of the coaft, where the village du 
Maffacre is fituated, I could find only a bad bottom 
ofcoral. The fwell alfo fet right in fhore, and I am 


* Tt is faid to be a general faét, that in long voyages the officers 
prefer for their own ufe the water fhipped at the port of their 
equipment, to any they procure afterwards, and that they drink 
the former to the end of the expedition. 


certain 


Ala CORRESPONDENCE OF 


certain our cables could not have refifted it during 
two hours. The fhips might then have been 
arte in the moft imminent danger, without its 

ing poffible for them to approach within gun fhot 
of that deteftable little bay. Nor did I think the 
pleafure of burning five or fix huts fufficient to in- 
duce me to put the fafety of the two fhips fo much 
at hazard. I believe, however, that I could not have 
refufed attempting it, if I had entertained a hope 
of retaking our long-boats ; but the favages, after 
having almoft deftroyed them, had run their wrecks 
upon the beach. 

You will be glad to find that fuch a misfortune 
has not made any change in the future plan of my 
voyage. But it has, however, prevented me from 
completely exploring the Archipelago of Navigators, 
which I think more confiderable, more populous, and 
more abounding in provifions, than the Society 
Iflands, including Otaheite, and ten times more cx- 
tenfive than all the Friendly Iflands together. We 
have got fight of the Archipelago of Vavao, adjoin- 
ing the latter, and which the Spanifh pilot Maurillo 
fell in with ; but of which he has ftated the longitude. 
fo erroncoufly, that to place it on the charts accord- 
ing to his flatement, would only be introducing ad- 
ditional confufion. Navigators may be guarded from 
all uncertainty in this refpect by our obfervations, 
or rather thofe of Capt. Cook, who has fo well de- 
fcribed the clufter of Hapaec, that it is impoffible not 
to perceive their identity with the Mas de Galvez of 
Muuriilo. 

You will find in my narrative, that I have feen 
Pylftaart and Norfolk Iflands, and that I am arrived 
at Botany Bay, without a man fick on board either 
of the fhips ; the flight fimptoms of fcurvy that ap- 
peared having yielded to the frefh provifions I ob- 
tained at the Iflands of Navigators. I am certain 
that the fea air is not the principal caufe of this 

difeafe, 


led it during 

have been 
_ without its 
thin gun fhot 

I think the 
fficient to in- 
hips fo much 
ould mot have 
ained a hope 
favages, after 
1 their wrecks 


a misfortune 
e plan of my 
ted me from 
of Navigators, 
populous, and 
1 the Society 
imes more Cx- 
ogether. We 
avao, adjoin- 
pilot Maurillo 
the longitude 
harts accord- 
itroducing ad- 
guarded from 
r obfervations, 
as fo well de- 
impoffible not 

de Galvez of 


at I have feen 
t I am arrived 
board either 
urvy that ap- 
rovifions I ob- 
I am certain 
caufe of this 
difeafe, 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE. 415 


difeafe, but that it ought rather to be attributcd to 
the bad air between the decks, when not frequently 
renewed, and fill more to the bad quality of the 
provifions, Can it be fuppofed that bifcuit, worm- 
eaten and refembling a bec-hive, as it fometimes is; 
meat, the fubftance of which is corroded with an 
acrimonious falt, and pulfe abfolutely dry and de- 
cayed, can repair the daily wafte of the body? The 
decompofition of the humours of the blood, is a 
natural confequence of the want of nutriment. I 
therefore confider fpirit of fcurvy-grafs, and all the 
remedies contained in the furgeon’s cheft, as mere 
momentary palliatives; frefh provifions, and frefh 
provifions alone, whether animal or vegetable, cure 
the {curvy fo radically, that our crews, after liv- 
ing only a month on pigs, procured at Navigators’ 
Iflands, have arrived at Botany Bay in better health 
than when they left Breft; though they pafled 
only twenty-four hours on fhore in the Ifland of 
Maouna. It is my opinion that malt, fpruce beer, 
wine, coffee, fauer-kraut, &c. are antifcorbutics only 
becaufe thofe fubftances, whether liquids or folids, 
are fubject to very little alteration, and confiitute a 
proper aliment for man. They are not, however, 
alone fufficient to cure the fcurvy, though I think 
they may retard it, and with that view the ufe of 
them cannot be too frequently recommended. I 
regard as mere medical quackeries all the fixed airs, 
&c. of the French and Englifh phyficians. Though 
fwallowed by bottles full, and will not do feamen a 
thoufandth part of the benefit they would receive 
from good flices of roaft beef, beef fteaks, turtle, 
fifh, fruit, vegetables, &c. | 

My theory upon the fcurvy may be reduced to 
the following aphorifms, which are certainly not de- 
tived from Hippocrates : 

Aliment of any kind, proper for man, and capable 
of repairing the daily waite of the body. 

The 


116 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


The pure air of the atmofphere, inttoducéd ag 
often as poffible between the decks and into the 
hold. ; 

Counteracting; by almoft conftant fumigations, 
and even by braziers of burning coals, the pernicious 
humidity occafioned by the fogs. 

Cleanlinefs, and a frequent infpection of the fai- 
lors’ cloathing. 

Regular exercife, and fufficient time for flecp, 
without indulging floth. 

I confefs I place no confidence in Capt. Cook's 
obfervation coneerning the deterioration of water 
in the cafks. I think that which is of a good 
quality, when put on board, after undergoing the 
two or three changes well known to all feamen, 
which render it ftinking. for a few days, becomes 
afterwards excellent, and perhaps as light as diftilled 
water, all the hetcrogencous particles being precipi: 
tated and fixed in fediment at the bottom of the 
cafk. At the time I am now writing, though we 
are very near a good watcring place, I drink the 
water from Port des Français, on the coaft of Ame- 
rica, and find it excellent. This falfe notion, in 
which I never concurred, was the caufe of our 
difafter at Maouna. But how could I oppofe an ex- 
verienced captain, when he affured me all his crew 
would be affected with fcurvy in lefs than a fort- 
night, if they had not frefh water.* 
| M. Dagelet 


* A due variety of nutritious food, and an unrémitted attention 
fo the non-naturals, are moft likely to produce and preferve a per- 
{e& ftate of health. Thefe are rft, air; 2nd, meat and drink; 
3d, exercife and reft; 4th, the paflions of the mind, (or moral 
ftimuli); sth, excretion and retention, (including humidity); 6th, 
fleep and waking, Of thefe the firft, fourth, arrd fifth, are moft 
unwarrantably negle@ed. In very long voyages, atmofpheric air, 
which is of the utmoft importance to life, as it is conftantly enter- 
ing the fyftem, ought to be introduced between decks, by means 
pi ventilators, of which White’s air machine is unqueftionably sis 
beit; 


atroduced af 
and into the 


furnigations, 
he pernicious 


on of the fai- 
ne for flecp, 


Capt. Cook's 
ion of water 
s of a good 
dergoing the 
) all feamen, 
ays, becomes 
ht as diftilled 
being’ precipi: 
ottom of the 
g, though we 
, I drink the 
oaft of Ame- 
fe notion, in 
caufe of our 
oppofe an ex- 
e all his crew 

than a fort- 


M. Dagelet 


emitted attention 
d preferve a per- 
eat and drink; 
mind, (or moral 
y humidity); 6th, 
rid fifth, are moft 
atmofpheric air, 
conftantly enter- 
decks, by means 
nqueftionably the 
beit ; 


M. DE LA PÉROUSE. A17 


M. Dagelet will write to yqu on the fubject of his 
aftronomical obfervations, I fhall, therefore, not en- 
ter into that fubject. It is fufficient for me to fay, 
that the combination of our two methods, our lunar 
obfervations, and our time-keepers, have completely 
refolved the problem. Thus we have conftantly na- 
vigated with lefs error in the longitude, than pre- 
vailed ten years ago in the latitude, when obferva- 
tions were made with wooden oétants, and perhaps 
one fourth of the inaccuracy when the crofs ftaff and 
old quadrant were ufed, 

The death of M. de Langle will not make any 
change on board the Aftrolabe, as to the aftrono- 
mical obfervations. For near a year, M. de Laurifton, 
who is a young officer of the firft merit, has had the 
fole care of them. For accuracy he may, perhaps, 
difpute the prize with our profeffed aftronomers ; 


beft ; and fecretion and excretion, which require infinitely more 
attention at fea than on fhore, are found to depend, in a wonderful 
degree, on the moral ftimuli of amufement and pleafure. 

t cannot be too often repeated that variety of ftimulus is highly 
important to health; a remark equally interefting to thofe who 
have, and thofe who have not the choice of their own food and 
regimen, as children, failors, &c. Every drug lofes its power by 
conftant ufe, of which opium is a familiar inftance, though one of 
the ftrongeft ftimuli ever employed. 

Life is a forced fate, depending on the ftimuli that give motion 
to our frame, and the blood which is conftantly hurrying on to 
fulfil the purpofes of its deftination, requires a conftant fupply of 
its numerous component parts. If thefe are with-held, or the fac- 
titious and tranfient ftimuli of fpirits and falt, fubftituted for 
fubftances convertible into blood, the fkin, and other parts of the 
body, cannot be fupplied and regenerated, cutaneous and fcorbutic 
difeafes muft enfue, and the phenomena attributed to a difcrafis of 
the blood will appear. 

The fubftances moft eafily convertible into blood, are thofe 
which have once exifted under that form, as milk, cheefe, butter, 
and butcher’s meat ; alfo farinaceous vegetables, as pores peas, 
&c. which are found to contain the principles of the fibrous and 
mufcular parts of animals, (fee Fordyce on Digeftion); or laftly, 
faccharine vegetables, or fuch as abound in fugar, as carrots, 
parfaips, &c. Inattention to feveral of thefe caufes of health, 
would account for the deftruction of all the fleets and armies in 
the univerfe.—T7)an/lator. 

Vor. IT, Ae and 


IMAGE EVALUATION 
TEST TARGET (MT-3) 


q 


14 


1.25 


il 


A18 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


and I know that his journal of obfervations is kept 
with the greateft regularity. | 
. The Englifh having fixed a fettlement at Port 
Jackfon, lave entirely abandoncd Botany Bay. 
I have formed a kind of entrenchment with palifa- 
does, to conftruét our new boats in fecurity, which 
will be completed by the end of the month. This 
precaution was neceflary againft the Indians of New 
Holland, who, though by no means ftrong or nu- 
merous, are like all other favages, very treacherous ; 
and would burn our boats if they had the means and 
a favourable opportunity. They. threw fpears at us, 
after having received our prefents and experienced 
our kindnefs. My opinion of uncivilized nations 
has been long fixed, and this voyage will but con- 
firm it. 
J'ai trop, à mes perils, appris à les connaître. 


Yet even with thefe favages I am by no means fo 
angry, as with the philofophers who extol them 
with fo much enthufiafm. The unfortunate Lama- 
non, who fell himfelf a victim to their perfidious 
cruelty, told me, the very evening before his death, 
that thefe wretches were better men than ourfelves. 
Bound by duty rigidly to obferve the rules prefcribed 
me, I have always ufed them with the greateft 
lenity ; but, I confefs, were I to make a fecond 
voyage of this kind, I would folicit different inftruc- 
tions. À navigator, on quitting Europe, ought to 
confider all favages (however weak) as enemies, whom 
it would be ungenerous to attack unprovoked, and 
barbarous to defiroy ; but againft whom he ought to 
ufc every precaution, when fair fufpicions render it 
juttifiable to aaticipate their attacks. 

I have informed you already, by my letters from 
Kamtfchatka, of the future plan I have been obliged 
to adopt, in the further profecution of my voyage, 
to arrive in Europe about the month of June, 1789. 
Neither 


he € SO M = 1h 1 


A 


mm FQ rs 


ts QD © © gg 


ons is kept 


ent at Port 
otany Bay. 
with palifa- 
arity, which 
onth. This 
ans of New 
rong or nu- 
treacherous ; 
e means and 
fpears at us, 
experienced 
ized nations 
will but con- 


onnaître. 
\ 


no means fo 
. extol them 
unate Lama- 
ir perfidious 
ore his death, 
an ourfelves. 
les prefcribed 
the greateft 
tke a fecond 
erent inftruc- 
bpe, ought to 
emies, whom 
ovoked, and 

he ought to 
ons render it 


y letters from 
bcen obliged 
jf my voyage, 
f June, 1789. 

Neither 


M. DE LA PEROUSE. 419 


Neither our provifions, our rigging, nor even our 
fhips, ‘will permit us longer to protract our voyage, 
which at leaft with refpect to the length of our 
courfe, will be the moft confiderable in the annals 
of navigation. Many interefting objects remain to 
be explored, and many very mifchievous tribes to be 
vifited *; on whom I will not promife but I may dif- 
charge a few guns; for I am well convinced, that 
fear alone can reftrain their treacherous intentions. 

I fhall quit Botany Bay on the 15th of March, and 
{hall lofe no time till the month of December, when 
I hope to arrive at the Ifle of France. 

In the fequel of my journal, you will find the plan 
of the Iflands of Navigators. The natives enumerated 
ten; and I think, to complete this archipelago, we 
ought to include in it Quiros’s Ifland of the Hand- 
fome Nation, the Cocoas, and that of the Traitors ; 
but of this I am not entirely certain. The two laft 
are very fmall, and of little importance, but I fhould 
not be furprifed if the iflands of Maouna, Oyolava, 
and Pola together, contain 400,000 inhabitants. 
Maouna is much fmaller than the other two; and 
yet in the fpace of 24 hours, we procured there 500 
pigs, and a vaft quantity of fruit. 

I could have wifhed to add to the chart of Navi- 
gators’ Iflands, that of the archipelago of Friendly 
Iflands, including the iflands of Vavao, Latte, &c. 
but to my great regret it is not finifhed, and cannot 
be réady before our departure. To fupply the place 
of the chart, you will find, in the tables, the latitudes 
and longitudes of thefe Iflands. Thefe are more ex- 
act than thofe inferted in my narrative; which, 
though hiftorical, has been written as the events oc- 
cured, and the longitudes being inferted, before the 
ultimate obfervations were taken, they may fometimes 
require correction. 


* Thofe of the iflands lying fouth-eaft of New Guinea, difcover- 


’ 


ed by the French in 1768, and 1769. ; 
rf Ee2 M. de 


420 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


M. de Clonard, at prefent commands the Afro. 
labe ; and M. de Monti fills his place on board the 
Bouflble. They are both of them officers of the 
greateft merit. In M. de Langle we loft one indeed, 
of fupcrior excellence. He poflefled moft valuable 
qualities, and I know of no other fault in him but his 
obftinacy, and” a tenacioufnefs of his own opinion, 
which rendered it impoffible to avoid a quarrel, un- 
lefs by complying. In this manner my laft permif- 
fion, which was the caufe of his deftruction, was 
rather wrefted from me than obtained. I fhould 
never have yielded to his importunities, had the ac- 
count he gave of the bay been accurate; nor can I 
conceive how a man otherwife fo prudent, and en- 
lightened could be fo grofsly miftaken. 

You fee my, dear friend, that I am ftill extremely 
affected by this event. In fpite of myfelf, it incef- 
fantly recurs to my imagination. . 


“mi O°} © Ga — 


EXTRACTS. 


From Letters written by M. de la Péroufe to M. de Ia 
Touche, Affifant Director of the Ports, and Captain 
in the French Navy; and from M. de Lamanon to 
M. de Servières. 


FROM M. DÉ LA PÉROUSE. 


Macao, 6th January, 1787. 


“Here I atm, my dear la Touche, fafe arrived at laft 
in China, 18 months after my departure from France, 
of which 15 have been employed at fea. 

We have not loft any individual by ficknefs, and 
there is not one man fick on board either of our 
fhips ; but doubtlefs you are at this time acquainted 
with the difafter we fuffered on the coaft of Ameri- 
ca. For all the particulars of my voyage, I refer you 
to. the complete narrative tranfmitted to the minifter. 

| Although 


ds the Afro. 
on board the 
fficers of the 
ft one indeed, 
moft valuable 
n him but his 
own opinion, 
a quarrel, un- 
y laft permif- 
fruction, was 
d. I fhould 
s, had the ac- 
te; nor can I 
dent, and en- 


till extremel y 
yfelf, it, incef- 


je to M. de lu 
5, and Captain 
de Lamanon to 


January, 1787. 
arrived at laft 
> from France, 
a. 
ficknefs, and 
either of our 
ne acquainted 
oaft of Ameri- 
re, I refer you 
> the minifter. 


Although 


M. DE LA FEROUSE. 421 


Although we have already made almoft a complete 
circuit round the globe, our expedition is ftill but in 
itscommencement. As foon as the fine weather fets 
in, I {hall depart from this place to run along the 
coafts of China, and Tartary, up to Kamtfchatka: a 
navigation certainly the moft difficult that can poffi- 
bly be attempted. In the three or four a I have 
been at Macao, I have collected fome information, 
and they report that all the channels between China 
and Japan, the coaft of Tartary and the Kuriles, are 
full of fand banks, that the currents are extremely 
violent, and the fogs almoft perpetual. Our tafk is 
therefore not eafy ; but we will perform it, or perith 
in the attempt. . 

I have been anxious to fend the complete narrative 
of my voyage up to our arrival at Macao, together 
with our charts, that if any misfortune happens to 
us, the fruits of this part of our expedition, which I 
think interefting, may not be. loft to the world. I 
expect to depart from this place for Manilla, by the 
end of the month ; and from Manilla for Kamtfchat- 
ka, on the 10th April. Adieu, accept the beft wifhes 
of my heart, 


Ce al 


Kamtfchatka, Sept. 22d, 1787. 

I HAVE already, my dear friend, made a voyage 
nearly round the world, without receiving a letter 
from you. I will not, however, accufe you, for none 
of my other friends have written tome. Yet I mutt 
complain, becaufe my difappointment renders me un- 
happy, and it is at leaft allowable to give vent to for- 
row. J fhall give you no particulars of my voyage, 
becaufe you haye it in your power to fee the whole of 
my narrative, and being a feaman, are more able than 
any one to judge of the difficulties of every kind that 
attend a navigation like that we have performed, in 
the midft of currents, fogs, and forms, and among 
Ee 3 tribes 


A22 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


tribes where ftrangers can neither land nor find fupplies, 
in cafe of accident. No Europeans before ourfelves, 
have paffed to the weftward of Japan. Though we 
knew it was an ifland, we were ignorant whether the 
firait that feparates it from Corea, was navigable for 
large fhips. The accounts of Kempfer could only 
excite the greatcft terror at a navigation in thefe feas, 
of which he fpoke only from the relations given by 
the Japanefe. The pretended ftrait. of Tefloy of 
Father des Anges was not calculated to infpire much 
confidence, fince he defcribed it as full of weeds, 
which obftruét and render it impaffable for fhips. 
We have deftroyed all thefe geographical chimeras, 
difcovered a ftrait indifputably new, and at length ar- 
rived at Kamtfchatka, whence I fhall depart for the 
fouthern hemifphere on the firft of October 1787, 
not expecting to arrive in France till the \month 
of June 1780. 


I have read, my dear friend, the new regulations, 


and I folemnly declare it as my opinion, they are 
perfect. I wifh that, like the ark of the Lord, it might 
be forbidden by law to touch it for at leaft two cen- 
turies, after the firft year, in the courfe of which fome 
minifterial letters may be neceflary for itsinterpretation. 
I find in it gardes de la marine educated for the fea; 
officers who have nothing to think of but their duties 
at fea, and directors who have only to attend to their 
refpective occupations; troops formed to ferve ufe- 
fully on board a fhip, where we may always have in- 
fantry enough, when we have no war in Germany: 
laftly a center of union in the commander. This 
enfures the execution of the plan, which is the only 
good, true and reafonable fyftem. What I have fo 
long defired, I have at laft feen accomplifhed, that 
is a commanding marine (of nobles,) and an aux- 
iliary (mercantile) marine, whofe interefts have been 
fo provided for as not to humiliate them, while the 

education 


proper! y 
worth, p 


YOU 
fpondent 
ever, kr 
there. 
from M: 
regrette 
not with 
parture | 
a day, : 
Fifth to. 
fhells to 
ftones tc 
make, ¢ 
plate. 
multipli 
activity 
my lab 
fome et 
geologif 
Betweer 
exceffiv 
climates 
add our 
gers we 
confider 
like reli; 
tyrs. F 


plies, 
slves, 
h we 
Pr the 
e for 
onl 
feas, 
n by 
by of 
much 
eeds, 
fhips. 
meras, 
h ar- 
r the 
1787, 
onth 


itions, 
ey are 
might 
D cen- 
| fome 
tation. 
e fea; 
duties 
o their 
e ufe- 
ive in- 
many : 

This 
e only 
ave fo 
|, that 
1 aux- 
. been 
le the 
cation 


M. DE LAMANON. 423 


education given to the young people will be fuch, as 
to render them a little rough, but never haughty ; a 
circumftance that will give them a firmnefs of cha- 
racter. I could wifh to have been educated as the 
new naval ftudents will be, whofe name has been very 
properly changed; as nothing of the old fchool was 
worth, preferving. 


FROM M. DE LAMANON. 


On the Chinefe Seas, \ff January, 1787. 


YOU, my dear Serviéres, who have fo many corre- 
fpondents, yet have none in China. You are, how- 
ever, known to your advantage, and have. friends 
there. Can you doubt it when you learn that it is 
from Macao I now write? a thoufand times have I 
regretted, and as often have I rejoiced, you were 
not with us. The pleafure I have had fince our de- 
parture has been great, I labour more than 12 hours 
a day, and yet am fcarcely ever up to my work, 
Fifh to diffect, animals to defcribe, infects to catch, 
fhells to clafs, events to relate, mountains to meafure, 
fones to collect, languages to ftudy, experiments to 
make, a journal to write, and all nature to contem- 
plate. For all, all this, my exiflence needs to be 
multiplied in a twenty-fold ratio. With your 
activity and health you would have participated 
my labour and my pleafures; but, if we have 
fome enjoyment, yet confider the fituation of a 
geologi# obliged to pafs three or four years at fea. 
Between the tropics the ftomach becomes weak, and 
exceflive perfpiration fatigues the body, while in cold 
climates fogs overwhelm us. To all this you muft 
add our grief for the lofs of our friends, and the dan- 
gers we have furmounted, which are certainly not in- 
confiderable, and you will acknowledge that fcience, 
like religion, has its enthufiafts, and perhaps its mar- 
tyrs. Health and fpirits have never forfaken me, and 

Eea though 


424 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


though a little fatigued with 10,000 leagues we have 
already traverfed, I take breath to proceed with new 
ardour, nor have I yet had leifure to feel the \tedium 
of langour for a finglemoment. Mongès and I have 
each our.department ; his comprchends birds, a part 
of the infects, the analyfis of fiones and waters, and 
fome objects of natural hiftory. In mine I have geo- 
logy, quadrupeds, fifh, fhells, and many other aqua- 
tic animals; the reduction of metcorological obfer- 
vations, the natural hiftory of the fea, &c. M. de la 
Martiniére who is on board the Aftrolabe, takes care of 
the plants, and amufes himfelf with infects, birds and 
fifth. All thefe materials to be arranged, and proper- 
ly applied, require labour and attention. 

Preferve your health and your amiable gaiety, and 
rely upon my conftant friendfhip. 

P. S. I fhall expect from you, at the Ifle of France, 
a long letter, to inform me of all the moft impor- 
tant news both of the literary and political world. 


eS EE 


LETTER FROM M. DE LA MARTINIERE TO THE Ml+ 
NISTER OF MARINE *, 


Road of Santa Cruz, Teneriff, 29th Aug. 1785, 
SIR, 


SHOULD I, purfuing the example of almoft all 
botanifts, who have had occafion to traverfe different 
countries, and obferve their produétions, only col- 
lect a vaft variety of plants, to arrange them in 
an herbal, I fhould I think by no means fulfilled 
the charge with which I am entruftcd. In my opinion, 
every botanift, when he arrives in a foreign country, 
ought immediately to employ himfelf in examing all 
its productions, in making an accurate catalogue of 

* This piece and the following not coming to my hands till the 
work was printed off, I have not been able to range them according 


- to their dates. They appeared, however of too much importance 
to.be kept from the infpection of the learned —French Editor. 


them 


them in, e) 
ture, and | 
tation he E 
tions may 
in France, 
country. 
In this 1 
cupied. dui 
our excurf 
ral plants t 
rifh in the 
the obferv: 
plants of t 
of which it 
come extre 
If, as I | 
to our clin 
ferred no 
know, Sir, 
dy this inc 
vate the fo 
to fend yor 
They ar 
ral of the 
wifh many 
furnifhing 
ford that ce 
inhabitant: 
leaving he 
where this 
feed on i 
This fhrul 
named by 
Jpartium fu 
heightsoft 
the road Ic 
Jpartium y 
whofe brar 


M. DE LA MARTINIÈRE. A28 


them in, examining the foil, its expofure and tempera- 
ture, and laftly in judging by analogy from the vege. 
tation he has feen in other countries, what produc- 
tions may be propagated with the greateft advantage 
in France, fo as torender an important fervice to his 
country. 

In this manner, therefore, I have been chiefly oc-+ 
cupied. during our ftay at Madeira and Teneriff, and 
our excurfion to the Peak. I have there found feve. 
ral plants that, with cultivation, would certainly flou- 
rifh in the province of Languedoc. I judge fo from 
the obfervations I have made on a vaft number of 
plants of that province, growing here among others 
of which it is deftitute, though they might there be-- 
come extremely ufeful. 

If, as I hope, we fhall ever be able to adapt them 
to our climate, I fhall flatter myfelf with having con- 
ferred no fmall benefit on that province. You 
know, Sir, it is entirely deftitute of wood. Toreme- 
dy this inconvenience, therefore, I propofe to culti- 
vate the following plants of which I have the honour 
to fend you the feeds. 

They are only feven or eight in number, and fcve- 
ral of the genus Geffa. On one of thefe I could 
wifh many experiments to be made, becaufe befides 
furnifhing the greateft quantity of wood, it would af- 
ford that country an excellent food for goats. The 
inhabitants of Teneriff fet us the example, by 
leaving herds of goats for whole years, in the diftrict 
where this plant grows in abundance. The animals 
feed on it exclufively, and thrive extremely well, 
This fhrub, commonly called ginete, or broom, is 
named by Maffon in the fupplement of Linnæus, 
Jpartium fupranulium. Jt comes to perfection on the 
heightsofthe mountains towards the port of Orotava, on 
the road Icadingupthe Peak. Itis certainly thelargeft 
Jpartium yet known. I met with fome fpecimens 
whofe branches coyered an area of 80 feet in circum- 

ference, 


426 ‘CORRESPONDENCE OF 


ference. Thetrunk was nearly as thick as the body 
of a man, and the branches in proportion. It rifes to 
the height of ten or twelve feet; and when it flowers 
it muft be a moft beautiful object, as it has a great 
quantity both of branches and flowers, 

The other plants that appear moft likely to ve. 
getate in the fouth of France are, 

ift, A fpecies of afparagus very common in this 
country. It is a charming fhrub, called by Linnæus 
afparagus declinatus. 

adly, A fpecies of ciftus, cifus villofus Linnei. 

3dly, An euphorbia of the Canaries, (Euphorbia 
Canarienfis Linnæi) which grows on the rocks, and is 
generally ufcd as firewood. ‘The vegetation of this 
plant is fo vigorous, thatthe fame trunk often pro- 
duces more than 150 branches of the thicknefs of the 
arm, and twelve feet high.. One of thefe euphorbie 
would afford a man fufficient fire-wood:for a whole 
winter. ' 

I could with that, for thefe experiments, fome land 
might be chofen in the environs of Montferrier, a 
fmall village about a mile frem Montpellier, round 
which is an extent of uncultivated land, commonly 
called garrigues. Every thing leads me to believe 
all thefe plants would grow very well there, fince 
that country is volcanic, like the ifland of Teneriff. 

The perfon who appears to me the moft proper for 
making the experiments is M. Gouan, profeflor of 
medecine at Montpellier, a very fkilful botanift, un- 
der whom I took my degrce of doctor in phyfic, and 
for whom I fhall ever entertain the greateft refpect. 
If you will be pleafed to tranfmit him a part of 
the feeds I have the honour to fend you, I fhall think 
myfelf highly honoured. 

I have the happinefs alfo to fend you two cords 
which I made with the bark of the banana, and 
feveral parcels .of the ligneous part of the fame tree, 
which I entreat you to have examined immediately, 

to 


_…. ns + £5 4 


PU ey PP UE VALEURS RS er LORS EEE 


was So es eee) Ae dene YN -t 


as the body 
n. Itrifesto 
1en it flowers 
it has a great 


likely to ve. 


imon in this 
1 by Linnæus 


s Linnæi. 

, (Euphorbia 
> rocks, and is 
tation of this 
1k often pro- 
icknefs of the 
efe euphorbie 
for a whole 


nts, fome land 
Montferrier, a 
pellier, round 
id, commonly 
ne to believe 
| there, fince 
of Teneriff. 

oft proper for 
1, profefior of 
| botanift, un- 
n phyfic, and 
cateft refpect. 
im a part of 


a, I fhall think 


ou two cords 
banana, and 
he fame tree, 
immediately, 
to 


M. DE LA MARTINIERF A27 


to why it is poffible to derive from it all the utility I 
expect. 

The ill fuccefs of evcry attempt of making linen 
and cords, is probably owing to the want of infor- 
mation relative to the proper method of preparing 
the bark. 

The procefs is as follows: the bark of this plant 
ought not to be fteeped like hemp, becaufe it contains 
a great quantity of vegetative moifture and pulp, 
tending to accelerate the putrefaction of the ligneons 
part which it is effential to preferve. But, on the 
contrary, if care were taken to cut off the upper rind 
in ftrips, and the bark fcraped with a knife to extract 
all the water. and pulp contained in one layer, the 
ligneous part would be eafily obtained, It may 
then be left a fhort time in water to undergo a flight 
degree of putrefaction, contributing to render it 
much fofter, after which it may be ufed for every 
purpofe inftead of hemp with much greater advan- 
tage, fince a fingle trunk, by its different concentric 
layers, ten or twelve in number, would afford fila- 
ments of different degrees of finenefs, according to 
their diftance of the centre of the tree. 

You will judge, Sir, of the ftrength of thefc little 
cords which were made at fea. Ihave fhewn them 
to M. de Langle, who appears ftrongly perfuaded 
they might be employed to very great advantage. 
The principal method of trial, he obferved, is to lay 
acord for fome time in water, and try whether it 
preferves the fame degree of ftrength. This experi- 

ment I intend to make *. 
Extra& 


# The voyage of La Péroufe could not, for thereafons I have before 
affigned, be the means of procuring a great number of new plants; 
but of thofe fent home by the gardener Collignon fhould be no- 
ticed, a charming herbaceous plant, that flowered and brought its 
feeds to maturity in the botanical garden in 1789. Juflieu, who 
firft obferved it, has difcovered that it conftitutes a new genus, be- 
longing to the family of #4ages, and has given it the name of aéro= 
nia, 


428 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


Extrad of a Letter from M. de Lamanon, to M. de Con. 
dorcet, perpetual Secretary to the, Academy of Sciences. 


AFTER a run of two months we landed at St. Ca. 
tharine’s Ifland, where we fhall only flay to procure 
wood and water. Since leaving Tencrift we have feen 
no land but the Martin Vas iflands, which are uninha- 
bited, and Trinidad, where a Portuguefe cftablifhment 
fucceeded to that of the Englifh about a year before. 
It has a garrifon of about 150, but no women what- 

ever. Provifions are carried thither evcry fix months, 
and there is no cultivation in any part of the ifland, 
which is nothing more than a rock of bafaltes, Jap- 
proached it within hail, but the fea is interfperfed 
with rocks, and we had orders from the captain not to 
land. 

Before you reccive this letter, one I fent you 
from Feneriff will probably have arrived. Being 
obliged to write to you before we anchor at St. Ca- 
tharine, as otherwife I fhall not have time, it is im- 
poffible to fend you any confiderable news. . As our 
fhips do not fail well, the voyage will be fomewhat 
protracted, and is cxpected to be in the wholc three 
years and a half. We fhall then have kept the fea 
longer than any preceding navigators ; for we remain 
very little time in any port. At prefent, indeed, we 
are haftening to double Cape Horn during the fa- 
yourable feafon. So long a continuance at fea will 
not allow me as much time on fhore as I require for 
mineralogical obfervations ; but I take advantage of 
it for other purpofes, I am very well, and labour 
conftantly twelve hours a day without fatigue, not- 
withftanding the rolling of the fhip. Inficad of ly- 
‘ing in bed till nine or ten o'clock, as was my idle 


nia, a Greek word fignifying ine, delicate, (vide Gen. Plant, page 
448). Lamarck has given a good drawing of it in his Mu/raricnes 
Generum, plate 150. The feeds of this plant were collected in Ca- 
Kfornia.—French Editor. 

cufiom 


ft 


— beg té Me À js, = 


 S 6 


M. de Con. 
of Sciences. 


dat St. Ca- 
to procure 
re have feen 
are uninha- 
tablifhment 
year before. 
men what. 
ix months, 
the ifland, 
Ites, Tap- 
interfperfed 
ptain not to 


[ fent\ you 
ed. Being 
at St. Ca- 
e, it is im- 
rs, .As our 

fomewhat 
‘hole three 
ppt the fea 
we remain 
indeed, we 
ng the fa- 
at fea will 
require for 
vantage of 
nd labour 
tigue, not- 
icad of ly- 
as my idle 


n. Plant, page 
is Luffraticnes 
blleéted in Ca- 


cufiom 


M. DE LAMANON. 429 


cuftom formerly, I behold the fun rife every morning 
with renovated pleafure. 

I annex hereto a memoir on the refults of obferva- 
tions on the barometer, taken hourly between one 
degree north and one degree fouth latitude. It 
fhould appear that the combined action of the fun 
and moon produces a flux and reflux of the atmof 
phere, occafioning a variation of a line in the baro- 
meter. According to the calculations of M. de la 
Place, it ought not to be more than one third of a 
line. It is true I have read, that according to the ca}- 
culation of the fame philofopher, the barometer ought, 
at the equator, to vary half a line by the action of the 
moon, fo that fome doubt remains. M. de la Place 
will be able to fay whether the obfervations and the 
theory accord. Judging from the opinion of the 
greateft mathematicians concerning the tides, there 
muft be fome uncertainty in the fundamental part of 
this calculation. Some aflert that, if the fea were of 
mercury, the tides would be the fame, while others 
affure us they muft be different. It remains for you 
mathematicians of the firft rank to examine this fub- 
ject anew, and finally determine our belief. 

I make magnetical obfervations with great care, 
but it would be difficult to give you an account of 
them. [I have watched the dip of the needle twenty. 
four hours together, to obfcrve the true moment 
when we paffed the magnetic equator, and I found 
the true zero of the dip at eight o’clock in the morn- 
ing of the 8th of October, in about 10° 46/ fouth la. 
titude *. I have made obfervations on fome iron 
bars laid on the fhip,and on fome that were fixed ; on 
the ofcillations of the necdle, both perpendicular and 
horizontal, and the weights that a magnet will fup- 
port according to the latitudes; fo that before long 
I hope to have collected a greater number of facts 

* See the tables of the track of the Bouffole, 8th Oftober, 198 5. 
—French Editer. 


than 


SS 


Sa eee = ee égal & ge TA 
~ S 


TR es 


PT RE ME ET 


430 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


than were ever obferved on this fubjeét. The re- 
fults only will be printed in our general accounts. 

We have not one fick man on board, except M. 
Blondela, whofe lungs are confiderably affected. We 
arc all pleafed with each other, and extremely hap- 
py with M. de la Péroufe. As to myfelf, in particu- 
lar, I have great reafon to praife him, for the readi- 
nefs of his endeavours to procure me all the affiftance 
my ftudies and experiments require. M. Mongis 
has taken for his department ornithology, microfcopic 
animals, and cryptogamous plants. Mine embraccs 
ichthyology, entomology, and the conchology of ma- 
rine, terreftrial, and river fhells. With refpe to 
mineralogy, we have not yet drawn the boundary 
line ; however, from the turn of our minds, the geo- 
logical obfervations will reft with me, and the foffils, 
(détail des mines,) and chemiftry, with the Abbé 
Mongès. I am alfo charged with the meteorological 
and magnetic obfervations. When I was at Salon, 
I lived with my family one year, to provide for the 
expences of a journey the next. Thus I had a year 
of ftudy for each year of local obfervation : at prefent, 
I compare my obfervations when at fea, and collect 
new ones at every port. My habits of life have, 
therefore, undergone very little change. 

When you have an opportunity of feeing M. le 
Roy, tell him that on the 25th of October, we had 
an extraordinary tempeft. ‘The heavens appeared all 
on fire. I pafied a part of the night in obferving it, 
and had the pleafure of witnefling three afcending 
electric meteors. They fhot from the fea like an ar- 
row ; two rofe perpendicularly, and the third formed 
an angle of 75 degrees. The lightning took a lefs 
fepentine direction than in France. ‘Towards the end 
of the ftorm I faw a luminous point at the top of the 
conductor, which remained there a quarter of an 
hour. This is what they call the Feu Saint-Elme ; 
but it did not appear on the other mafts, I am al- 

ways 


. The re- 
counts, 
except M. 
scted. We 
emely hap- 
in particu- 
r the readi- 
re affiftance 
A. Mongès 
microfcopic 
1e embraces 
logy of ma- 
1 refpect to 
ve boundary 
ids, the geo- 
d the foffils, 
h the Abbé 
eteorological 
vas at Salon, 
wide for the 
I had a year 
: at prefent, 
, and collect 
of life have, 


fecing M. le 
ober, we had 
s appeared all 
obferving it, 
ee afcending 
ea like an ar- 
third formed 
g took a lefs 

ards the end 
he top of the 
quarter of an 
Saint-Elme ; 
ts. I amal- 
ways 


M. DE LAMANON. A431 


ways ftrenuous in recommending the ufe of conduc- 
tors. Ours is to be taken down at Saint Catharine’s, 
where we fhall arrive to-morrow; but perhaps we may 
fucceed in retaining it fome time longer, for M. de la 
Péroufe appears almoft convinced of its utility. He 
has been told by fome one, that the Englifh have 
laid afide the ufe of it, and that they have found it 
productive of great inconvenience. This appears 
ftrange, as I know Forfter mentions an inflance in 
which it was of the greateft fervice to Captain Cook’s 
fhip. I think we fhall at laft refolve to take it down 
during a hard gale of wind, left it fhould break, and 


. replace it on the approach of a thunder ftorm ; and 


vie I believe, would be the fafeft and moft rational 
an. 

I addrefs the memoir mentioned above, to M. de 
Fleurieu, becaufe I am not certain whether it is the 
minifter’s intention to permit it to be publifhed before 
our return *. 

P.S. We have been very well received at Saint Ca- 
tharine’s, and found there an abundance of every 
thing. Ihave collected an ample harveft of infects, 
quadrupeds, fifh, fiones, &c. The inhabitants are 
a well difpofed people, and the Governor treated us 
with politenefs. 


On board the Bouffole off Saint Catharine, 
5th November, 1785. 


* See my note, vol. i, p 25, which was printed nearly two years 
before L had any knowledge of this letter.—French Editor. 


CORRESPONDENCE OF 


OBSERVATIONS 


Made between the Firft Degree of North and the Figf 
Degree of South Latitude, in order to difcotier the 
Flux and Reflux of the Almofphere. 


BY M. DE LAMANON. 


IT has been already obferved, that between the 
tropics the mercury of the barometet remains con- 
ftantly higher in the fyzygies than in the quadratures 
of the moon ; but it has never been fufpected, that 
the flux and reflux of the fea might not only bo 
perceived, but in fome degree meafured, by means 
of this infirument ; it was referved for the Academy 
of Sciences to difcovet the poflibility of applying it 
tothat purpofe. The following are the words of that 
learned body, in their inftruétions upon this fubject 
given us by M. de la Péroufe, in the beginning of 
our voyage round the world. 

“ The Academy alfo requefts the navigators to keep 
‘ an exact account of the different heights of the ba- 
“ rometer, in the neighbourhood of the equator, at 
‘- different hours of the day, with a view to difcover, 
« if poflible, what variations in this inftrument are 
“ occafioned by the fun and the moon; this variation 
“‘ being at its maximum, when thofe produced by the 
& ordinary caufes are at their minimum. It is un- 
“ neceflary to temark that thefe nice and delicate ob- 
“ fervations ought to be made on fhore, with the 
‘ gréateft precaution.” 

Having attended the reading of this article in an 
extraordinary fitting of the Academy, I procured an 
excellent barometer to be made by M. Fortin, by 
which a variation of only the fiftieth part of a line 
anight be diftinguifhed. M. Lavoifier had recom- 


ended me to this fkilful artift. It was fuppofed, I 
| ' fhould 


SOS ogee 


© 


nd the Firf 
difcoter the 


between the 
mains con- 
quadratures 
pected, that 
ot only be 
1, by means 
he Academy 
applying it 
vords of that 
this fubjeét 
eginning of 


ators to keep 
its of the ba- 
> equator, at 
r to difcover, 
firument are 
this variation 
duced by the 
n. It is un- 
| delicate ob- 
re, with the 


article in an 
procured an 

. Fortin, by 
art of a line 
had recom- 

; fuppofed, I 
fhould 


M. DR LAMANON. 433 
fhould make ufe of this inffrument, which was con- 
ftruéted for the purpofe ; and it was under that im-. 
preffion that the academy, in its inftructions, advifed 
the obfervations to be made on fhore. But having 
met with a marine barometer at Breft, conftruéted 
on Mr. Nairne’s plan, as defcribed in the voyages of 
the celebrated Cook, I found it poffeffed all the re- 
quifites for making exact obfervations at fea. How- 
ever violent the rolling of the fhip, the mercury has 
always remained undifturbed, which may be attri- 
buted to the mode of fufpending of the barometer, 
and the capillary tube adapted to the common tube. 
With the Vernier fcale added to it, variations of + of 
a line may be perceived. 

By obferving this barometer every day, at fun rife, 
at noon, and at fun fet, I have remarked that be- 
tween 119 2’ and 1° 17’ north latitude, it preferved 
a very regular motion ; the Mercury being always at 
its greateft height about noon, whence it defcended 
till the evening, and rofe again during the night. 

It was on the 27th of September that we reached 
the latitude of 1° 17’, and on the 28th before day 
break, I began my obfervations, for which I had pre- 
pared in the evening, and continued them hourly, 
till fix in the morning of the firft of O&eber, or more 
than three days and nights. M. Mongés kindly 
undertook to make the obfervations for me, during 
the fix hours I devoted to fleep. I thought it ne- 
ceflary to obferve alfo, at the fame time, the ther- 
mometer in the open air, that attached to the baro- 
meter and the hair hygrometer. I alfo noted down 
the direction of the wind, the courfe of the fhip, and 
the way we made, eftimated by the log. At the fame 
time I took the opportunity of making obfervations 
on the temperature of the fea water, at all hours, 
and on the dip of the needle. 

The refults of thefe obfervations appear to me very 
curious. The barometer rofe hourly, during fix 

Vou, II. F f hours, 


434 CORRESPONDENCE OF 


hours, and then defcended for the fame time, rifing 
again during the fix following hours, and thus con. 
tinued rifing and falling alternately, as is fhewn in 
the following table, extracted from my journal : 


LUE r LINES, 

from 4 to 10 a.m. — rofe 1.9 
The 28th Sept. 10 to Ap.m. — fell 1.2 
4 to 10P. M. — rofe 09 

10 to 4a.m. — fell 1.3 

A to 10 A.M. — rofe 1.5 

29th. 10 to Ap.m. — fell 1.3 

A to 10 p.m. — rofe 1.0 

10 to 4a.m. — fell 1.7 

A to 10 A. M. — rofe 1.4 

dass 10 to 4pP.M. — fell ‘1.4 

A to 10 P. M. — rofe 1.0 

1ft October. 10 to 4a.m. — fell 0.8 


The flux and reflux of the atmofphere, at the 
Equator is, therefore, fuch as to caufe a variation 
in the height of the barometer of about one line 7s, 
according to the Englifh fcale ; and the atmofphere 
may, therefore, be fuppofed to rife and fall in the 
fame time, about 100 fect. According to M. Ber- 
nouilli, the action. of the fun and moon combined 
does not caufe the waters of the fea at the Equator 
to rife more than feven feet. 

It is true that fome allowance muft be made; 
1ft, For the variation of temperature in the mercury 
of the barometer; 2ndly, Perhaps for that of the 
air; and 3dly, For the feven feet of afcent and de- 
fcent of! the.{ca, on which I was placed during the 
obfervations. 

; I fhall leave, however, to more able mathema- 
ticians, to prove whether this obfervation ne 
| witn 


with theor 
thefe obfe: 
meteorolog 
ence of tk 
moir on th 
Phyfique 5 
Cofmograp} 
ftrated. It 
allow notl 
caufing a: 
barometer, 
produce fe 
I think | 
the Acade 
annex the 
quence of 
the barom« 


height of 


M. DE LAMANON. 435 


with theory and calculation. Be that as it may, 
thefe obfervations appear fufficiently to prove that 
meteorologifts allow far too much for the influ- 
ence of the moon, as I have fuggefted in my me- 
moir on the fog of 1783, printed in the Journal de 
Phyfiques and as M. de la Place, author of the 
Cofmographie élémentaire, has mathematically demon- 
ftrated. It would be no lefs erroneous, however, to 
allow nothing for the action of the moon; for, 
caufing a variation of a line and three tenths in the 
barometer, it may influence the atmofphere, and 
produce fenfible ce 

I think it my duty to lay thefe obfervations before 
the Academy exactly as I made them, and thus I 
annex them. It mutt be noticed, that in confe- 
quence of the change of the level in the refervoir of 
the barometer, one line muft always be added to the 
height of the mercury fet down in the table, 


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440 


DESCRIPTIVE NOTE 
ON THE LIANES OR LARDIZABALE OF CHILI®, 
(Sce the Plates where they bab bien called Cotton Plants, } 
By VENTENAT, Member of the National Infiitute. 


The name of Liane is applied univerfally in, both the 
Indies, to denote:chmbing or voluble plants, That 
of which, a, drawing has been fent by M.:de la Mar- 
tinière, isa low fhrub or fuffrutex, with a cylindrical 
fem, branching, furnifhed with tendrils. "Phe leaves 
are alternate, furnifhed.with petioles or leaf-fiems in. . 
flated -at their bafe. Bach Tea is biternate,: or di... 
vided into three folioles,.and fubdivided into. three. 
dmmaller, tharp, oval leaflets, entire when young, | but. 
‘afterwards: faintly lobed.. The flowers, difpofed in 
ren ufters, grow near the fummit ofthe ” 
ik, ahd the branches in axillæ-of the leaves It is: — 


fi 
‘ofthe ordér diœcia, that is, the male flowers aïe on 
‘one plant, and the female on another, of the fame 
fpecies. At the bafe of each clufter are feen twa 
finall oval-rounded folioles itlmoft oppoñite. 


* The drawings of thefe plants came without either a memoir or 
particular defcription, and I am indebted to the ces bota- 
nift, who has politely furnifhed me with this note for {upplying the 
defeët.— French Editor. 

FEMALE 


‘ 9S Manel Jeu 


i 
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$ 
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‘ 


DESCRIPTIVE NOTE, 


PEMALE FLOWER, 
Calyx, fimilar to that of the male flower, but 


re orolle, inferted below the piftil, formed of fix 
tals rately entire, oftener cleft at their fummit, 
or trifid, fhorter than the folioles of the calyx, 

Styles fix, inferted as the corolla, diftinét, broad, 
expanding, very fhort, furrounding the piftil ; ftigmas 
fix, erect, oblong, acuminate, barren. 

Germens from three to fix, oblong, gibbous on the 
outfide, and of almoft the rags es of the corolla ; 
fiyles wanting, fligmata at top, oblong, perfiftent. 

Berries equal in number to the germens, oblong, 
acuminate, flefhy, (divided alternately into fix com- 

rtments, and containing numerous angular feeds, 
Flore Péruviana.) 

This plant conftitutes a new genus belonging to 
the order dicecia hexandria according to the fexual 
fyftem of Linnæus, I wifhed to have given it the 
name of La Martinière; but on looking over the 
Flora de Peru y Rhili, printed at Madrid in 1724, I 
found it there mentioned under the name of Jardiza- 
bala. Probably it may be found in the herbal of our 
countryman Dombey, who was fent to Peru in 1774, 
with Ruiz and Pavon, authors of the Flora Peru- 
viana, to contribute to the advancement of natural 
hiftory. | 

The general charaéter of the lardizabala, evidently 
places this new genus among the family of the 
MENISPERMUM, to which it has an apparent affinity 
by its climbing ftalks, flowers in clufters, diftinét fexes, 
the leaves of its calyx, its petals and ftamina, fix in 
number, and its piftil, compofed of from three to fix 
germens which become as many fruit. 

From the genera of this order hitherto known, it 

differs, however, in its fruit which, inftead of being 
| monof- 


nm 
à . ; 


Ds nn 
. 0 


4Az DESCRIPTIVE NOTE. 


monofpermous, include feveral feeds. This character, 
which fhould indicate a new fection of the meni/per- 
mum, ftrengthens the relation this family bears to the 
next order, thé anone:. In fact, the greater part of 
the genera anone, having equally in the fame flower 
many fruits containing numerous feeds, differ in this 
refpectifrom all.the genera of menifpermum, and: placing 
the lardizabsla between both, we eftablifh a natural 
gradation, | To confirm this opinion, it only-remains 
to.examine the infide of the fruit, and particularly the 
firu€ture of the feeds. It is’ well known that thofe of 
the menifpermum are reniform, at leaft internally, fur. 
nifhed with a flefhy pericarpium, and contain towards 
their upper part a dicotyledonous embryo; :. All thefe 
characters of the lardizabala fliould lead-us to fuppofe 
the ftructuré of their feeds fimilar,, ‘The authors of | 
the Flora Peruviana de not mention it, becaufe, pro- 
bably not having fufficiently attended to the ME 
ples of thé natural method, which on the whole is the 
true {cience of botany, they did not attach to the cha. 
racters furnifhe2 by ‘the feed all the importance they 
deferve. True naturalifts, however, will confider 
them as the touchftone by which all the other cha. 
racters are to be proved. 


is character, 
he meni/per- 
bears to the 
ater part of 
fime flower 
differ in this 
, and placing 
ifh a natural 
only remains 
rticularly the 
that thofe of 
ternally, fur- 
ntain towards 
10; All thefe 
us to fuppofe 
se authors of 
becaufe, pro- 
to the prided 
e whole is the 
ch to the cha: 
yportance the 
ra de 
he other cha. 


TABLES 


FEMALE COTTON PLANT of CHILI. 


lab: June 20.1798, by L. Stockdale . 


i 
i k +o 
| J À ae 2 
| 4 if 
| } FE el 
| 1: ju 
| Tt ie 
| k } Fa 
| 
| gb | 
ui 
8 {| 
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i ait 
i. , 
VF 1 4 
> ess 
/ } 4 
( i 
fog i 
her 
+ Be 
| 
| 
Me di: 
| ' 
\ } 
; 


a PMazeil Seal 


J In thef 
tion of th 
the fame 
Refult of 

. by Réau 
“rife; an 
webferved 


+ 


| SHEWING 


“THE COURSE OF LA BOUSSOLE, 


DURING THE YEARS 
3785, 3486, 1787, AND 1788,. i 


| From * Time: of. her Departure ‘from Europes till 
her: Arrival at. Botany Bay. fi. 


# pneu Er é. ns ve + 
; Se 4 ote. 
# In thefe Tables are given, the Ship’s Place at Noon}. -the Varia,” 
tion of the,Compafs, as obferved in the Morning or Evening'a 7 

the fame Day (and diftinguifhed by thé Letter a when ite the 
Refult of an Azimuth Obfervation) ; othe Degree of Teuf 
DY Réaumur’s Thermometeny the Heightof the Barometer at Sun- 
* rife; and lattly, the PIERIE of ge eNom a eieevet it could be 

Weberved k Lu ie 3 


+ Vor. IT. 


= ss we al 
FERS 


CHUN DROWN © = 


5143 
744 
3138 
| 936 
10/34 
31/33 


12132 


wm 
ENT 


132 5 
b ralAtMadeirs 


15| Ditto 


ae | RS 
“°°. ABBREVIATIONS. 4 FRA" 


1731 , 28 


F 


br. for bréeze; cl. cloudy; f. fathoms; g. gales h. hazy,; 1. light; 1830 


ft. ftormy; d. n. declination of the needle; w. weather, 
wt t ; 4 4 


M a 19128 32 


20|At Tenerif 
at} Ditto 
| Ditto 
13) Ditto 
y] Ditto 
14] Ditto 
16] Ditto 
b7| Ditto 
b8| Ditto 
2 Ditto 
$028 21 


27 18 
125 37 
as 56 
4122013 
LATE. 18 
19 26 
617 34 
916 16 
rs 17 
gig 58 
lot4 12 
Mig 57 
113 07 
nl2 09 
lt 02 


®— {19 «28 o3IN. E. L. br. fair. 


+ “à # 
LA PÉROUSE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 
4. à 
hdi dé Weft Long | weft Variation 
ate À | North a “mg aj ortne ait MEE. | Ther. | Baro. [wind ; State of the atmofphere; Remarks, 
™ ’ el | Pea. mine wet a ; : 
f D. M. D. M. Peine Ds. M. D. M. ri P. L, E cl. 
ar 4 148° 22) 7: 43lof Dep. 11 128 o2/E. cl. w. rain. 
de 4 M; : 1147 og] 9 “ol — “€ x 14, |27-22]S. S. E. fr. S. hazy. 
Le Mr 0 L 146 56/10 23] — a à } 27 07/S. uals, vvercaft, rain. 
des 33111 231D. Mj — js jag r0iN. E. 1, br. fair w. 
44 1511 53/11 04) — [21,40 ie 128 o4|N. W. ditto. 
* 43 23112 Ms7lxs 42] — 22 do: TRE N. E. 1. br. cl. 
41 19 14 o1 — — om « à 04 N. E. fr. br. el, 
38 solts 43/14 — [22 gots. {28 o2|Ditto. 
L 936 ‘52126 16/15 mw |18 66515 1128 o4ÏN. E. fr. br. fair. 
1/34 40/16, 42] +— oe — |16 £28 o3/N.E. |, br. fair. 
41133 02117 23116 21] — |19 oft7 (28 o2/N.N. E. ditto. 
dar N. N. E. 1. br. hazy. At 
om 132 67118 «97/17 45] —— — |17 {28 02 j 8 o'clock, P. M. faw the 
’ : Defart Ifands. 
os si 4 E.S.E.1.b.f. AtSo'clock 
wig 1132 59 19° 23) — — {18 |28 o4l4 P.M.anchoredintheroad | 
me mx ' of Funchal, at Madeira. 
——— yylatmadeira] mf - —| — |S.E. very little wind, h. 
J " 15 Ditto — : ad — |S. ré Hit e a a fair. à 
| h632 31119 15 RE AM. failed d n Madras 
vai 28/19 08] — E. |. br, fair. 
J j 4 8 18 Af 18 — 101 N. E. fr. brs faw the Sal. 
zy.; 1. light; eS Iflands. ve 
Édther, N. . br. At 4 o’elock, 
; Re * A.M. faw the Canaries, 2 
1928 32118 52 28 05 I ‘totheS.S.W. At zy 
hee ee . anch. in the road of 
Santa ' Cruz, in pos 
& , aol4t Teneri — a — de N.E. 1. br. fai 
iat. u! Ditto — ~ ~<a itto. esha 
“? ! ul Ditto | — _ — = |Ditto. Fe we. 
xl Ditto |] — _ ~ = |Ditto. 
ry, Ditto 1° un — =e x N. E. fi br. fair. 
Ditto | — | — | — Dittowge 
27 Ditto omen — — Ditto. 7 
às| Ditto — — — re Ni E. 1. br. fair. 
iy 19) Ditto — | = — N.E. nine i 
" vs SAN E.frdbr. fu; Tookour 4h 
OR aus SL hp NDS departure'f . Cruz. 
a7 1818 43] — 1§ 3819 |28 o3|N. N. E. 1.br. fair. 
a 125 137198 09] — 1§ 10/18 |28 03)/N. E. fr. brefair., 
i “à ÿ223 56 19° 69 — hs 05 18 3128 03 N.N. E. TI. br. hazy. 


i ; mhaisho 31 
17.182058 
to 26/21, 36/22 
thy 342 57 
$16 16/22 01/22 34 
frs 17/22 04 
114 58122 : 10 
1o14 12/22 IF 
His 57/22 31 
113 07/22 32 


td 


9 


— |19#/2804IN. ditto. a 
— |20 ES E. ditto. 
12 07/20 28 o2|N.E. fr. br. fair. 
— |zo 3/28 oalDitto. 
8 rrl22 Le 8 o2lE. calm, ft. 
es |22 128 02/8. S. E. ditto. 
8 49/22 tes oa. very little wind, fair. 
— |21: 8 où1s. S. E. calm, ft. 
= 20 428 o2!5. S. E. br. tts, 
12 o9!24 38/22 10 7. 4519 |a8 o31N. N. E. ditto.” 
Wito2l2z 4222 58 10 23lè1 4128, o2[N. I. br; fair. de #. 20% 


+ Fae 


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LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE  ‘!, 


Let |A 
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ns | Wil f State of the Atmalahére Rem 


e N. ‘e L br. fair 
8 0M8, W. 1. bre Hey 
—) [10 $128.02/S, W, fr. br. cl, 
1120 a8 02 OR i. ne 
728 03)W.N. W.:little wind, fai 
Mi ARB 02 vo ad ; m 
a 4 De De ole br. rain, à 
bs are 04 © fome birds ” 
20° 128.031S, $: W. fr. brs rain 
16 22/12 30/30 28.04 S, W. gufts of wind, overcal 
sai 47 13 47/20 4/28%03/S, W. 1. br. fair 
2218 ‘2ol14 26] — — {20 28.038, S. E. 1. br. rain 
18 46/15 37115 46/13 26/20 “|284%031S. 1, br. cle 
19 24] — 13 36/20 |28 03 pe E.ficb P 
RG : : rae | «SE. fre br. gufts of wind 
T FS 2/2808) 9 in du: Re, notth 
— 19 428: o2 S.S.E. fr. br. rain, d. 2,179 


19. |28-03/S, E. fr. bri cl. d. 2.'199, 
sol19 {28 o3/S, E. 1. br. fair. d. 2, 169, 
59|19 |28 03/S.E. fr. br. fair | 
19/19. |28-03/S,.E. by EB. fr. br. fair 
18/19 03lS: S. E. fr. br. fair. d. 2. 1049 
43/19 03S. E. fr. br. fair. d.n. 829, 
44119 :l28 031$; E. gufts of w. h. d,n, n°. 
03/B.S.E. fr. - Du d. n, 344 
BS E.S. B. gufts of w. cl. d. 
LS 50119 3/28 + } 0°. at PA. M. 
I 5 630/18); Ë 8 ogi. S.E. fr. br. cl. &. #. 13,8 
"5 141888 03/S.E.by E. fr. br. fog. d.n. 30 
| 407/18" 128 031$. E. L'br. hazy. d n. 24, 
‘80/26 .%a2| 3° 34/18 1128 o4lDitto. d.m. 4°. 
03/27 ‘24/2 — | § 14/17 228: ogiE.S.E. fn. br. overc. d. n, dl 
39/28 048 : 01/57 |28 04/8. N. E. fr. br. fair. d, 2, $4 
1124 | 461% 2128.03/N. E. fr. br. fair. d. n, 124° 
N. 1. br. Saw the ifles ç 
o1}17 3128 os} Martin Vas, about 10 leag 
tae LW. 34°..N. dom 132% 
Ban. «at N. N. Ww. 1. br. fair, N 
6 A.M. faw Trinid 
Tfland, about 8 league 
W.17° N, 

1 ooi14 4/28:021N.N. WI. br, hazy: d. 2.15 
— |18) }28.02/S.S.E. fr. b'fair."d. n, 14} 
— {17 {28.02/S.E. fr. br, overcatt 

1 42,27 |28.02/S. E..l. br. rain. d. #47} 

1 54119 |28.03/S. S. E. fre br. fair 
—  l16:4/28.04lS. E. 1. br. fire. 2. 144° 

3 32116 |28.03/E.N. Eyl, br. fair. dr. . 83e 
00H16:4/28.00/N. E. fr. br. rain. d, #17 
rN. W. , ra 
56/42 06) 4 40/16 1128 or M Aiea 2 
26142 451 4° 557 128.00 W.N.W. fr. br. cl, d, 2.20 
sl = . $5\87- [28.02 Ditto, d. 2, 20°. 


—_ 16 2/28 o2 a Ww. l. br. fair. d 
F let Z 9 


ht 
Es 


6123 
26/24 54/23 


oe 
— 
— 
— 
— 
— 
— 
— 


{1141111 


“à 


Weft Lons.|Weft Long.|' 


Computed 
Wert 


south by the jb tonite A pe pare 
1 of the Mo, er. rom; | Windss State of the Atmolphere; Remarks. 
Ca Li te” Longitude.| Keeper, | from the || “gag ; à 
' No, 19 Sun. ; 


D. ” / | D. 
)10128.032)44 


E. N. E. 1. br. fair. Saw 

x er albatrofies ’ 

17 2/28 o0!S. Eh bre rain. ” 

16 4/28 o2/S. B. fr. br. fo 
9 50/15 4128 o1[N. N. EB. | be ir 

= 428 o1/S. SE. |. bréftormy, rain 

k S.E. i br. hazy. At3 


Ll brohazy mn: 
W.1. br. rain, % 
birds 

» fr. bes rain 
gufts of wind, overcal 


P. M. faw the continent of 
Brañl, about ro leagues 
diftant W, 15° S. 


. br. fair A -1(S. 1. br. fair. Sounded in 37 

1. br. rain 3549 49) = 12/14 4128 02 and 40 fath. bottom fand 
. cle L' iit and mud. 4.2. 294°, 

N.N.E. tr. br. fair. At 

«firs br. gufts of wind a4 __ |) 4 P.M. anchored at St. 


. din. 189, notth 


l Catharine's in 7 fathoms, 
fr. br. rain, d, n,17° 


bottom {and mud. 
S. fr. br. @ir . ity 
j S. varying to the N. E. fr. 


oe br cl. de 2.179, 


br. fair. d. 2, 160, ee Lx bre fair 
. br. fair N.N.E. ]. br. fair. Chang- 
by EB. fre br. fair Fri 10 ed.our anchorage 
» fr. br. fair, d. 2, 104° — —. IN. NOE. fre br. faite 
r. br. fair. dm, 810, ju a ae . BA ay ing tothéE. 
ufts of w. h. 4, m, 7°, 7 10 S.E. fr. br. ft. rain 
«fr. br. ha. d. 7, 31 ns = ee SE. varying to the S. 
. E. gufts of w. cl. d, fr. br, foggy a 
at3 A.M. — — |S#lebr. hazy i ie 
> fr. br. cl, d, #. 13,9 j N. varying tothe N.E. very, 
rE, fr. br. fog. din. 40 ‘à 7 f& little wind, fair 
br. hazy. da ne oi, im aaa S. tt. thunder eT 
din. 4, — — |N.N.E.1. br. fair 
fr. br. overc. d, », 6! — — JN. ft. thunder and lightning 
=, fr. br. fair. dn. 84 _ — {N. alm6ftia cahn, ft. * 
r. br. fair. d, #. 129 S. ‘4 Very little wind, 
br. Saw the ifles q fair. Got under way at 5 
tin Vas, about 10 leag sane A.M. at 10 a calm, att- 
34°..N. d. 2. 133% te, of Lep. ree chored 2 leagues N. of the 


|. W.. 1, br. fair, 
AM. faw Trinid 
and, about 8 league 
19° N, 

7.1. br hazy: d. n.15 
fr. bo fair. d. #, 144 
. br, overcatt 
, br. rain. d. #47! 38l4s 38 
. fre br, fair 
br. fairs d ». 1312: 
1, br. fair. der. ig 
r. br. rain, d. 7 
N. W. ftrong br. ra 
thunder 

W. fr. br. cl, d. 2,20 
1. 4, 20°, 

# W. 1 br. fair. d, 


firit anchoring place; faile: 
ed at 2 P.M. d.n. 30% 
2|S. W. fri bracl, 
2|S. W. fr. br. fair 
1|N. E. acalm, fair 
o|N. E. fr. br. fair ; 
2|S. E. |. br. hazy. d. #. 43°. 
2IN.E. |. br. hazy 

} N.E. varying tothe E.S.E, 

very little wind, fair 

olË, 1. br. rain 4 
111$. guits of wind, €. 
2lW. 1. brs d. 2. 41° 

3|N. N. W. very little we fr. 
 3|W.N.W, tr. bis fair. din. 43° 
13,4 3|S. SW. freth br. rain, 
rr di27 11[Ditto. d. m 4739.9 © 
28 ofS, W. freth br, fair 


JTTLIIII 


, dy Long. i 
the Dil Ver che 


Cu Needle | Ther | Barom, | winds; state of the Atmofphere; Remarts, 
ste: fe 


Computec 
Lim Longitude 
Welt. 


D. MID. M 


We fre ch fi | DEP 


D#M.\D. M.D. M0. MID. M. D. 
, D. 5142 3146 | + 


*” 


… 6434836 | — . 32 as 27 Fs ro 
"4 8/3 4 10 59 127 11/Ditto. d. 2. 50% 
Py Fr: FA of 15. LE 7427 11/N. W. litcle wind, fair 


p {27 "Ne N. W. Bats of wind, rain 4! 65 


vy 9144 
1 7 4 ® ‘10144 Mig br ae dk. nk ; 87 67" 
11 y weat a 
12 vs L °° se N. yey br. rain a “4 ie ys 
13145 27 10 SW, by W. guits of w. rain 


14144 Pp? 8, 11N. Wy le-br, faire 4, 2. 51° 157° 59169 

15143 28 %41W. S."Waiftef br. fair Lili 58170 

16/44 9 4127 ite aay very little wind, cl, Fo 4 M, 

M 28 2 r, fair 

o| W. NEW. 1. br. foggy 57 5472 

. 3|Ditto : 431158 23172 

o|W. N. W. br. fogpy 4 F hi af 

rn © Ww. N. W. te. hazy 

12 §3 D 128 So|N. W. }. br. hazy 

29 10|W. S. W. 1. br. fair 

28 ofW. §, W. |. br. fair 

— |10 |27 7|/S.W.1. WE ova ai 

te A S. We qua ar 

“ni - so 24 we S. S. E: a calm? rain 

—s [10 f/27%11/S. E. almoft a calm, fair 
IN. W. veryJittle wind, fair 

oS. S. W. guits ofwind, rain 

11W.N.W. fr. br. cl. din. 50° 


olS. W. 1. br fair 
2|N.N.W. fr.br. fair. d, 2. 51° 
tar W. trode, fair. d. #2 513° 
‘o|N. N.° Pie br. fair 

pit. N. W. frefh br. cl, 

ae S. W. my ce 1 

1riN. W. guits of wind, cl. 
27° 6S. W. fr br. fair. d.m. 554° WAT 04184... 55 


6[W. by N. 1. br. fair: 2039 54183 31 
; SW. by W, frefhbr. hazy. Hst39 818: 56 
d,n. §7° 


27 11 S. W. frefh br. fair ey 
3 ee Ss. W. it little wind, ; 
fair, dns 

28 21S: SW. faually wé fair | 

27 -81S. W. |. breeze, fair ; | 

27 SIW.N.W'fibr.fair. d,n.591° 

rrIN@w. L br. fair ¥ 


436 42So rs 
d'A 


Latitude 


n. 5 1° the 0 
g fs sis. E.l.br.fair. At4 A.M: td 
: faw the coatt of Patagonia, 


J€N.1. br. fair.Cape Fair Wea- 6 43 
28 2/4 ther, about 5 leag. diftant, 


W. 26° S, d, n. 62° 
, * 


tg 


ROUND “it Won) 


we * 
= DT MID. MD. M.\D. M. D. P. L. té : 
AR ho À 6168. 6 8 1h28 wig Tienda 1 
San 331$3,.440170 ‘ ae 10 28 2 ight 
M ete Sand. te 
a \ fe St. {ne ‘ 
a i EL DR Bape Vin 
PR": cent bore S. atgbout #". ,, 
wind, rain 547 3309 3166, %: 68. pis , 
her rath tea 57167 57 mot ver] — _ Sts. of Le Maire, dem. 63° 
nat use 48168 _ 81S. W. fr. br. fain, d.2..63%° 
bof w inh 46157 13168 _ 1) ure ote : cl. | ‘ 
: "4 a F ° oa) 
din. 51° Wamens7” $9169 — fio sane 
t + Wils7 58/70 — 4 427 4/S.S. E. fqually wind, cl. 
2" acl. 958 22/72 _ 4 4/27, ‘4! Wafrefh br. rain. den. 674  « 
fogey 40157 54172 — 5 27 4lW.8. W. fr. br, cl. 
8 Else saalra cb 6 6 ré by N. very little wink 
foggy 715 SS : Fig a fog. dn, 66 9 
Û 7: — | 6 7\W.1. br. el ‘din. 663° . 
ae 4 — 9| 6 ‘IN. fc brad sete? atl 
F — 6 N. frefh br. a pe 
ar — 4 7. Wg ts of wind, rain 
ao _ 4 fr.br. rain. d. #. 70° 
’ fai — 4 5 lw. 1. " breezeyovercatt " 
ro Tair wi? 3 LAS. W. fr. br, now. d. n. 72f° , 
ae — sk 1|S. E. {qually weather, cl. a 
Ke we ‘ ~ 5 04|S.S.W. fqually w.cl.d.n.71§® 15 
ay vain Es o5lS. W. frefh breeze, fair . 
1, dr. 50° ae o9|Ditt di 4 
gs — o9![S. W. fr. br, cl. d. 2. 68° 
6 je Ww. fqually wind, rain. 
4 sae IL dum. 6749 
LR”. 3 “tome | 10|W. frefh breeze, rain 
” 514 a | = 08 Di to. d. Me 644° 
"ff _ 091$: br. fair. d. m 64° 
pe —_— _ o1|W. fr. bre ‘forgy. d. n. bot° 
d, cl. ae oil W. |, bréfaire v2. 58 
¢. wee 141 04184. 55/79 20/80 25114 o1|S. W. fr. br. fair. d. 2. 574°4% 
Me 553 1039 5483 31/77 42/78 32114 o2|W.S.W. I, br. fair.dn. sai 
Flr haz \, alg 6 i $.S.W. 1. breezejfair. Saw | 
+ hazy. 39 1 39/76 17/77 9114 93/2 land a-head Cs 
: S. fr. br. fair. At8 AM. 
' le wind the coaft 6f Chili, which 
nthe WE “B27 51180. sol7g 23076 10/15. 44/1300{28 034 we had feen on the 2fft, 
Le | 568 3) } bore E.N.E. diftant about 
(fair 6 leagues. dn. 52° 
à 36 S. fr. br. fair, The Mam- 
+d 059% ” melons of Biobio bore Ess 


d.n, 524° 


13136 io. isis 00175 o1 


wind, fair 


ch 
Latitude Longitude = 
‘ of the ob- mf 
aig Alt tae 
Patagonia, 
Fair Wea- _ + » À ~ — | 9 1128 or 


g. diftant, 
62° 


~~ So 


+ 


Barom. winds; State 4 pra À 1 Remarks. ' Li 
- , 


in 16, 15, and 14. tathoms. ° 
At 8 P.M. anchored inthe 
bay of Talcaguanda, in gr. 


S. S. W. very little wind. 
Anchored further in the 
bay, in 6% fathoms ; bot- 
tom fand and mud 


20°S. At6P. Me:oundedy 


fath. bottom of ela: 
fand and mad. 4.4%. oe 


Weft Long. hays bre ‘ 
the jby thei, 
Bis of the gn i : south. | Com 
Keeper, Latitude, ‘ 
BNO. 19. 


(i MJD. Mio. mo. MAD. M. On Oe 4 D. MID. 
faite) an tong. at a 
|paciquen … [rqeuees dé {wings ing: to the 
4 Là as reezé, fair hoh7  glita 
ss S. W. À. br, fair, dn, | 
SoS. W. |. be m 
Ditto 
Ditto Place, 
S. W. 1. br. fair 
Ditto ‘ 1027 
Ditto 
Ditto ave, 
Ditto * 
S. 8, W. 1. br, fair y 
Ditto 13/23 
1S. W. |. br. fair what 


Ditto 
S. SW. Ë br. fate wis 


Pred t tri bid ly 
ITA iy I 


ÉBLIPETI LIL 


CR = > 
~ OU OW AW Pw DE 


15 35 
Obferved 
at the ob- 
2 \fervatory 
with 
compaties 
NOS. 14 F We | 


25 and 3 | à . \ 
— |S. W. 1. br. fair ae 
— |S. S. W. very little wind, f 
— |N. 1. br. foggy 
— |N. varying tothe N.N;W. 4 r7li14 
— JN. frefh br. rain 3 arr 
— |S. S.E. very little wind, f 2. 15/1156 
S. fr. by. Sailed from ©. 541116 
15 14|tx 4/28 o2|ÿ caguar:, om the coal Lat. N. 
j Chili, at 1 P.M, 18/116 
— |28 03/S. frefh br. fair &olr17 
218. S.W. fr. br, fair, dr, g9|118 
4lS. frefh br. fair. d.n, 48° 6l118 
4lS. S.E. frefh br. fair 71119 
86 52/85 39/16 solr4 4lE. frefh br. overcatt, rain 49/119 
87 44187 33/14) ol15 21S. S. E: frefh br. fair Æ 11]119 
34 89 12/89 b |S. E. freth br. rain, d, #4 6120 
90 52 418. E. frefh br. fair tylr2r 
— 5 E.S.E. frefh br. cl. d,n, 2651122 
5|E. frefh br. cl, 441123 
4lE. frefh br. hazy s2/124 
341125 
46/126 
20/127 
dm. 4 48]129 
41. frefh br. cl, 11/130 
4iN. E. frefh br. fair, din, 
3[N. 1. breege, fair 54132 
2IN. 1breeze, cl. 
o|W. N. W. ftrong br, rail 591133 
28? 2\S.E. |. breeze, rain 031135 
Pe SMON.E. fr.br. ge 03/136 
“faw Eafter Ifland, be 58)138 
1610 5f 1 W.bys. about 12112 57 bis 
\ diftant 210 oalr42 


Vou. II. 


FUIT II I PL IS 


a 


“ee 


f 


WP 
us 
oe 
ai 
ei 
pean 
ane: 


Ital 


So 
CON Oun Un BW = © 


97 49 
99 II}: 
A7liot 1 
37403 2 
551105 17 
411107 ‘19 
30/208 49 
46, — 
41/109 22 
1]109 53 


BIFTTTTI 


ng to the 
ee fair 


» doit. 50 
Le 


fair 


he N.NIW. 
rain 

y little wind, f 
Sailed trom 
on the coaft 
1 P.M. 
fair 

br. fair, d.a. 
fair. d.n. 48° 
h br. fair 
overcait, rain 
fh br. fair 
r,rain, dn 
or. fair 

th br. cl. d, un 
cl, 

bazy 

light breeze, r 
Io 


Sr. fair. d,n,4 
d,u.4 

cl. 

br. fair, dim 

6) fair 

e, cl. 


, tr ong br, rail 


eeze, rain 
br. fair, At3P 
fter Tfland, be 
S. about 12 leag 


y Little wind, f 


by 


Laticude 


Ifland at 
the Anch, 
Place. 


10/27 
ul26 


12126 


13123 
lat 


co 


Com Lomme “by thee 


Keeper, 
Nov 196 


D. Mb. Mio. Mb. M\D. M| D. P, L 


glita 18111 51 — 17 4/28 
Lonqitats 
Ifand at 
the Auch, 
Place, 
s6l117 56, — 10/17 }28 
Gjtrr 51] — | 2 26/17 |28 
Sgitzt 52 — | 3 11/17 $128 
S7It12 47] — | 3 58/17 4128 
saliit 54] — | 3 4017 #l28 
45113 52] — | 4 32/18 4/28 
soft12 14] — | 4 46:19 [28 
181112 55) — | 4 320l19 {28 
31/1123 6! — | 4 5218 |28 
291113 16) — | 4 5ÿolig {28 
25/113 32/113 15) 5 Hide | 
231113 28/113 25] 5 23/19 $128 
39|114 10) — — io 128 
96/112 56114 40114 35) — jar |28 
26/1134 23/115 43] — — |20 4/28 
17/114 9/116 49) — | 3 35/20 
axl114 53/117 40] — | 3  g/20 4/28 
15/1125 261118 26) — | 2 
541116 21118 45) — | 2 
N. 
18/2116 33/118 of — | 2 s8lr9 
&olr17/2#119 7] — | 2 121 
59/1128  olt19 53] — | — |21 
6|118 54l120 35| — — |21 
7l129 galiat 14] — | o 4421 
491119 461121 2| — I 2/21 
11/119 55) — — |r 35/21: 
6,129 solr21-46| — — (0% 
17/1217 33/122 $5| — — {21 
25122 11/123 54) — | 3 197/21 
44/123 25/125 34) — — jar 
52/1124 36/127 Or] —= | 2 28/20 
341125 391128 19) — | — 
461126 461129 38) — — |19 4/28 
201127 59/131 51] — — 19 4/28 
481129 13/132 35, — — |16 1h28 
11|130 271134 o1| == | 4 of16 4/28 
511132 22/135 50] — — (16 3/28 
591133 341137 36) — | — [17 3h28 
031135 09/139 oo! — | 6 3817 [28 
031136 511140 §2 140 43) 6 51 a 28 
33/142 31/142 20) —— |17 2128 
.s7l140 12144 trlr44 2] 8 20 17 a8 
oal142 161146 24, — | g  ol17 128 
b 


| ROUND THE WORLD. 


‘ther. Barom. | Winds; State of the Atmofphere; Remarks, 


S.S.E. freth br. fair, At 2 
6 «Mea at Eafter 
Ifand, in 46 fathoms; bot- 

tom fine grey fand 


S.S.E. I. br. fr, At8 P.M. 
failed from Eafter Ifland 
.S.E. 1. br. fair, a.m. 41° 
S. S. E. 1. bréeze, fair. Saw 
Eafter Ifland, diftant 20 

leagues. d.n, 404° 

reth br. fair. d.m. 38% 
1, br. fair. d. #. 34° 
E. |. br. fair. dow. 33° 
E. |. br. tair, 4. nm. 32° 
frefh br. cl. d. #. 27° 
E. trefh br. fair 

. rr br. cl. 

Lo fr. br. fair, d.#. 20° 
refh br. fair 

SE. fr. br. fair. d,n.124° 
. trefh br. fair, d. 2. 12° 
El. br. lair. d.n. 7° 

. 1. breeze, fair. d.#. 64° 
_E. 1. br. fair. d. #.24° 
reih breeze, fair. d. #. 24° 
.E. 1. br. fair. d. #..2° 


ww wv 


ZAP D A ra 


.E. 
.E. 
.S. 
.N. 
.E. 
.N. 


we NW Vw DD VY VWWwWwW D LU) 


i appt aad as a 


1|S. E.1, breeze, fair. 4.8.0 | 
{Ditto d.m. 4° 

1|Ditto | d. m. 1° 

1Ditto d. #. 1° so! 

1|Ditto 
1|Ditto d.m. 

1|E. N, E. very Siete wind, fair 
1{N. E. 1. br. fair. d.n. 6° 
1/E. light breeze, rain 
IN. E. le br. cl, d. n.. 10° 
2|N.E. frefh br. cl. dia. 13° 
2|N. E. frefh br. fair. d.#. 18° 
2|Ditto d. #. 21° 

2|N. E. frefh br. cl. d. a. 23° 
3|Ditto d. x. 28° 

3|Ditto d.#. 29° 

3/E. N. E. fqually weather, cl. 
pe E. fr. br. fair. Saw the 


3 pee te tree. d. 2. 33 
E.N.E. I. br. varying tot 
3 j N. E. fair matt 
eee hes light breeze, fair 
3iE. fr. br. ft. rain. d.#. 33° 
3|E. N. E. treth breeze, tair 
alE. freth br. fair. d. 2. 324° 
3lE. N. &. froth breeze, fair 


Com 


en, [Erin 
wes Latitude, + eit. 


LA-PRROUSE'S VOYAGE 
pa 


of the Mo 
from the 
| sum 


101148 29 


Longie, of 
the bearing 
taken at 
nwon, de- 
cording to 
Cook's 
chart 
Sop iad 
31122 1651159 34 
J: re 531159 
224 491160 
3126 29/160 
ales 02/160 
ss 09/160 
6,30 4 160 
hs 151159 56) 
833 541159 24159 31 
9/34 571159 03). — 
10135 511158 43) — 
11137 02/158 34 _ 
12198. 02/158 15) — 
13139 191157 47) — 
1441. 371157 3/156 15 
1543 12/155 48/154 54 
( 59154 25) — 
162152 58) — 
 2al1s2 41149 42 
Sits 


variation 


22 


50 


; eat Ther. 


Marom. | Winds; State of the Atmofphere; 


P 

4lE. freth breeze, fair 

4\Ditto, d,n, 414° 

3/E.N.E. fi. br, fair, dm, ya] 

4 Ditto 

4E. re Du fair 
ICE. light breeze, cl.7 At 147. 

4 { A.M. faw the Sandwic je À el gt 

Iflands. d, », 43° | 

E.N.E. |. br. fair. Runnin 
along the ifle of Mowee ; 
1 leay. ditt, that of Tahog 
rowa bore W, 15° S, at 
or 6 leagues diftance, A 
chored at 4 pat 5 P, \ 
in the bay at the §.E.¢ 
of the ifle of Mowee, in 2 
fathoms, bottom fine gré 
fand, don. 28° 

E, varying to the E.S.H 

28 419 freth breeze. Sailed at 

A. M: from Mowee 


SE. varying to the E;S.R 
and E.N.E. tr. br, At 
4 


P. M. the ifland Woh 
bore S, at about 7 league 
diftance. d. 2. 20° 
5 N.E, varrying to E.N.E 
12 frefh breeze, fair. dn, 44 
sl. N°; fr. br. fair. din. 34 
6|Ditto d, n. 38° 
SE. N. E: frelh br. fqually, rai 
$ E.N.E. varying totheS.E 
42 light breeze, fair 
S.E. varying to the S. fre 
breeze, fair. -d. 2. 441° 
128 216 W. fqually, much rain 
1128  41S.-frefh breezes cl. d. x. 4944 
S: varying to the W.N. 
D s 1 frefh ou rain 
28 51S, le br. fog and rain.d.#. 53! 
S. varying to the E. N. B 
28 5 } Seat d ac Are 


3 E. varying to the S. W. 

‘ ; breeze, rain 

ang g j S: SW. fre br. rain aad fog 

| din. 53% 

aa". $ S: W. treth br. very foggy 

J "1l d.n. 561° 258 38lr40 
28 1! W. frefh br. fair, d. m. 59° 

tag Bye N. W. frefh br. haz 

HP NT gn. 60° 
28 aiWeafrelhbr. cl. d. 2. 61% 4158 38|140 

14 W. varying to the S. bis 

Be } fqually, rain. d.n 64 anchoring 

ri, W.S.W. fribr: fqually ta place. 

27 i} at intervals. 4, 7, 662° 


461146 
22 145 


93\142 


41143 


fair, d, n nl 


» fair 

ere, cl.’ At 
v the Sandwic 
n 33° 
rfair, Runnin 
fle of Mowee ; 


» much rain 

5 cl. d.n. 494 
othe W.N. 
e, rain 

d rain.d.a. 534 
to the E. N. B 
in. d. a. 514° 
to the S. W. 


n 
br. rain aad fog 
br. very fogey 


air, dim. 50° 
frefh br. haz 


led. 2. 614° 
to the S. 
ind. a 64 
‘bi: fquall ri 
sd, n, 664° 


jos 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


, 501150 17 147 271148 4)22 
171149 31) — | — 


451447, 481345 — 


461146 01143 44) — |17 


aalr4s 3143 4] — 


331142 s2l142 37 


411143 231142 41 


181142 4 — — |32 
aolr4z 35/142 35 


26142 2) — 


541245. 43lrar 21 


7142 3140 52 


258 38it4¢0 28) — 30 


3158 381140 221139 46 


Lat. at the’ 


Lang.at the 
anchoring anchoring 
place. place. 


24 49 


25 30 


40 


19| 5 À 


28 


3417 $28 . 


— | 5 $28 


b2 


W.N.W. frefh br, over- 
caft. d. nm. 674° 
il} W: varying tothe SiB, freth 
breeze, cloudy 
E. frefh br. entrent Saw 
many fragments of trees, 
and whales. 4, a, 72% 
E.S.E. frefh br. cl. Saw 
1 pen co birds and fea weeds, 
LP 
E.S. 4 r.br.fr, At sA.M. 
Saw the coaft of N. Ame- 
rica, and at noon fet Mt. 
LL vw: bearing N. 32° 
d,n. 74° 
S. V4 'wW. varying to the E. 
very little wind, foggy. 
Sounded in 80 "fathoms, 
bottom fand and mud 
W.S.W. a calm,fr, Mount 
St, Elias bore W. 42° N. 
founded in 45 fath. bot- 
tom muddy. At 2P.M. 
anchored in 50 fathoms, 
bottom muddy, Set fail at 
8 P.M. dn. 74° 
N. N.E. very little wind, 
foggy,rn. At noon the land 
was concealed by a fog 
E.N.E. varyingtoE.§.E. 
very little wind. | ue 
neareft land bore N. 
W. at 6 leagues difines 
E.varyingtoS S.W fr. br. 
foggy. The neareft land 
bore N. 4° W. at about 6 
leagues diftance 
S.S.W. little wind, foggy. 
Cape Fairweather ‘pore N. 
78° E. at 10 P. M, an- 
chored in 32 fathoms, bot- 
tom muddy 
S. W. 1. br..fair. 
atir A.M. dm 76° 


j Set fail 
W.acalm. Set. Mount 
| Fairweather, bearing N.6° 


2 


E. At 8 P.M. anchored in 
the entrance of a harbour, 
which bore N. 39 W. dif- 
JL tance nk of a league. At 
P.M. fet fail 
w. light breeze, fair. At 6 
P. M. anchored in the har- 
bour in 6 fathoms, bottom 
nn à 


12 


ly North 
ee | Lette, 


At anchor 
J o lin Port des 
Frangais. 


At anchor 
in acreek 
NeW. of 
Port des 
Français, 


At anchor 

in the in- 

ner extre- 
6) mity of 
Port des 

Français. 


7| Ditto 
8] Ditto 
9| Ditio 
to] Ditto 
11! Ditto 
12] Ditto 
33] Ditto 
14! Ditto 


Ditto | 
235158 : 39 


Latitude of; 
the obfer- |. 
yatory. 


At anchor 
38 lin Port des 
Français. 


19] Ditto 
20] Ditto 


: ‘Port des, 
: Fraupait. 
2174 4 


[III 


ELITE 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


«] Weft lon£| variation 


by gg *$ ofthe Ther. || Barom. | Winds; State of the Atmofpheres Remar 
aft. ; i 


N. W. fr: breeze. Shifted 
anchor this day; Cenotaph 
Ifland bore E. 27° N, and 


the mouth of the harbours 


S. 20° E, 

S.W. varying to the N.w, 
very little wind. Shifted 
anchor to get clear of the 
mouth ofthe harbour, 
d. n. 744 

( E.S.E. Set fail and anchor. 
ed at the top of the har. 


bour, in 13 fathoms, bot-§ 


tom muddy; the middle 
of Cenotaph Ifland bore 
S. E. half a cable's length 
diftant; the mouth of the 
harbour, by the S. W, 
point of the ifland, bore 
S. 15° W, 
8 3/28 2/E. varying to §. EF. 1. br. fair 
7 2128 2|W. N. W. little wind, fair 
8 |27 30/A calm, rain 
— | — IN. W. little wind, hazy 
—| — |W.N.W. very little wind, far 
— | — |E.N.E. very little wind, fair 
— | — E. light breeze, fair 
| — [W.N. W. little wind, fair 
W. varying to W. S. W. 
little wind. At4A.M. 
made fail for the mouth o 
the harbour. At 8 A.M. 
anchored in 46 fathoms, 
bottom muddy 
E.N.E.very little wind. At 
4A. M. failed, and an. 
chored at ro, waiting for 
the tide in 15 fathoms, 
bottom muddy 
E. I. breeze, rain. Squally 
8 |27 10 j 


RARE] 
Prd dtd dd 


wea. in the night, mouth 


of the harb, bore S. byW. ji 
11 27 ‘SIE. N.E. fr, br. fqually, rain 


7 t\27 ES. E. fqually, hazy, rain 


5 |28 3lE.l.br. varying toN. W. hazy 


( W.N.W. very little wind. 
At8 A.M. fet fail, and 
at rr A. M. anchored in 
the N. E. creek, in 9 fa- 
thoms water ; bottom fine 
fand. ‘Fhe mouth of the 
harbour bore §.30°E. and 

‘the middle of Cenotaph 
Ifland, N, 43° E, 2 leag, 
L diftant 


El |. worth 
Et patitude. 


D Ditto 


49} Ditto 
gl Ditto 


{| Ditto 


ha58 2 


Took for 
parture 5 


atitude, 
Ww. longy 
ridian 


2158 2 


3158 


ROUND THE WORLD. 13 


Compyted 
ort Longinide 
‘| Weft. 


Y.. fr: UM Shift 
hor this day; Cenotanh 
nd bore E. 27° N, and 
mouth of the harbourlim 
20° E, 


The tide not perceptible 
at this ancharage 
W.S. W. very little wind, fr. 
{® S. E. varying to E. E. 
br. fair. dia. 7349 
E. S. E. 1. br. hazy 
E.N.E. 1. br, rain 
jE. varying to the N. E. 
fréfh breeze} rain 
N.E. light breeze, rain 
N.E 


{7% N. W. 1, breeze, fair. 
4 


+ Varying to the N.W, 
y little wind. Shifted’ 
hor to get clear of the 
uth of the harbour, 
» 7449 
E. Set fail and anchor. 
at the top of the har. 
r, in 13 fathoms, bot 
muddy ; the middle 
Cenotaph Ifland bore 
E. half a cable's length 
ant; the mouth of the 
bour, by the S. W, 
Int of the ifland, bore 
15° W. 
ing to S. E. 1. br. fai 
W. little wind, fair 1 
»râin 
little wind, ha 
W . very little wind, fair 
. very little wind, far 
t breeze, fair 
W. little wind, fair 
varying to W. S, W, 
le wind, At4A.M. 
de fail. for the mouth o 
harbour. At 8 A.M. 
hored in 46 fathoms, 
tom muddy 
-E.very little wind. At 
\. M. failed, and an. 
red at 10, waiting for 
tide in 15 fathoms, 
tom muddy 
breeze, rain. Squally 
.in the night, mouth 
ie harb, bore S. byW. 1 


ye fr, br. fqually, rain§ 


46 Ditto | 
17 Ditto Va 
| il Ditto | -— 
xl Ditto |: — 
pl Ditto], — 


. a calm, rain 

W.N. W. 1. br. Prepared 
for fhiling 

W.N.W. very little wind, 
fair. Set fail at 4, P, M. 

W.N. W. |. br. fair. At 

1} noon the mouth of Portdes 

| Français bore N. 10° W. 
about 4 leagues diftant 


fi W. varying to S.$. W. 


nl Ditto |. — 


158 221139 46 
Took for, point of de- 
parture 58° 26° 44" N. 
atitude,) and 139° 50’ 

longitude, the me- 
Paris. 


very little w. fair. Mount 
Fairweather bore N. 19° 
W. the mouth of Port des 
Fravçais N. 10° W. 

W. very little wind, hazy. 
‘The entrance of the bay of 
Crols.found bore N. 48° 
E. dift. about 8 leagues 

À varying to the S. S. W. 
ort by S. very little wind. 
The neareft land bore N. 
45° E. dift. about 6 leag. 
28 2|E. very little wind, foggy 
Le N.W. very little wind, 
8 


471238 39 


fair. ‘The entrance of Port 
de los Remedios bore E. 
32° N.dift. about 6 leag. 
N.E. very little wind, fair. 
12 Mount Hyacinth bore N. 
56° W. and Cape Tichiri- 
kow E. 23° S. d.n. 734° 
W.|.br. fair, Cape Tichi- 
3 rikow bore N. 38° W. 
diftant about 3 leagues 
W.fr.br. hazy. Phe middle 
3 


7156 30)137 191137 25 


8is5 411136 401136 48 


. fqually, hazy, rain 
varying to N. W. hazy 
NW. very little wind. 61135 4 
8 À. M. fet fail, and : 18 è 
1 À. M. anchored in dos 231135 271135 3 
N.E. creek, in 9 fa- uls4 121135 211135 14 
ns water; bottom fine Yalsg 61136 11] — 
l. Fhe mouth of the 13154 41136 151 — 
nour bore §.30°E. and . 
middle of Cenotaph 
nd, N, 43° E, 2 leg, 
ant 


of Ifle San Carlos bore N. 
27° E. dift, about 2 leag. 
W.N.W.fr. br.very thick fog 
N. N. W. I. br. foggy 
Ditto 
S. very little wind, foggy 
À varying to the E. S. E. 
3 


136 7 


very thick fog. Saw land 
this day, at abouc 8 or 10 
leagues diftance 


1153 50135 511135 46 


. 
th me ae ge 


a a mt 


=a =z eo eter ae sero ee ; * te, Ly ee T 
à >" ; : € — _. —_ É 
See aaa a E. iz z 
oo TS RE SS a a os a : 2 


LA PERQUSE’S VOYAGE 


Computed 1 : 5 A 
es adits, moi d wy Ther, | Barom. |Windss State of the Atmofphere; em 


E.1. brhazy. AtroA, 
faw land from N.E. to 
about 10 leagues difta 
At noon, fo 

E. 1. br. hazy, Saw lay 
. 201136 27] — 28" this day, 8 or 10 leag, ¢ 
tant. Foggy at interyg 

N.E. very little wind, ha 

At hal pats A.M.t 
12/136 71136 36 land bore from N. E, } 
: E. to E.S. E. difts abowks 
is A ie At-noon fogs 
1. br. fair. The ef 
ae of Port dela Tone 
bore N. 21° E, ditt. abo 
4 leagucs. d.2.'78° 
N.W. varying to the §, 
little wind, hazy. Tig 
neareft land bore N. 18° 
diftant 5 leagues 


N.W. varying to the W, 
br. fair. Cape Heétor bo 
N. 10E. and the Keroua 


35/134 21134 


3134 11134 3 


Iflands N. 5° E; the Cy 
ditt. 3 leag. and the ifland 
24. Atz7 P.M, founde 
in 100 fath. bottom rock! 
wih varying to the S.S, 
, br. fr. C. Heétor bo 
Ne 59° W. diftant about 
leag. the iurthelt to theof 
fing of theKerowart Ifland 
ee: 48° W. dift. 6 leag 
l'an. 72° 50° 
S. varying totheS. E. fre 
br. hazy. Saw land at: 
A. M. the nearett in figh 
bearing N. 75° E; the mo 
wefterly land N, 15° 
diftant about 6 Jéague 
L At noon foggy 
S.E. ftr. br.foggy. At} pa 
5 A. M, faw a range 0 
iflands; named the mof 
- welterly Cape Fleurieu 
which bore N. 25° E. dif 
tant g.leagues. At noon 
fo 
Ww NS W.1,br, foggy. The 
Sartine Iflands bore S. 65 
ri132 25131 { ñ 3 


22|141 338) — 


471132 6131 


EF. diftant about 3 leagues 
d. n. 664° 
W.N.W.|.br. fr, varying t 
3 | the N. W. Woody Poin 
bore N. 33° E. 


§9\129 save 
6}129 25.129 o[E.S.E. very little wind, fogey 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


if North 
Latitude.’ 


a. 


Ther. 


tmofphere; Rer 


re At 10 A. 
om N. E, to 
eagues difta 
)B8Y 
LY» Saw lay 
or 10 leag, ¢ 
at: interyg 

‘tle wind, haz 
ft 5 A, M, t 
rom N.E, } 
E. dift, dl » 
At noon fogs 
fair. The er 
rt dela Tone 
 E. dif. abo 
d..n.780 
ig fo the §, 

, hazy. Tie 
‘bore N. 18°F 
gues 

g tothe W. 

Ie Heder bo 
d the Keroua 
5° E; the Cay 
and the iflan 
P. M. founda 
bottom rock! 
to the S.S, 
So. Heé&or bo 
diftant about 


s7|ta8 45l128 55 


391127 571128 4 19 


57 125 531126 30 


§5|826. 271126 16) — 


41,226 311126 38 


0/126 34/126 48 


15 soinr À 


E. 
Je wind, fogsf 


rthett to the of « 10 A. M. 
erouart Tfland 431126 231126 60] — [15 33l10 3/2% 2\N.-W. |. breeze, foggy 
i 61 leag ie fiw a fine br. tair. At 
841226 50127 7} — |14 24!12 |28 2|4 ro faw land, which bore 
‘the. E. fre ; E. diftant about 8 leagues 
paw land at : 21126 291. — en orn (ts 28 oN. N. W. frefh br. overcatt 
neareft in figh 16/126 33) — — — jit 4h28 olN.W. 1. br. overcait. dx. 57° 
SN AMM ON? as lacs — | he BE donne 
ut 6 Jéague 56[124 051124 162| — — ro 4/28 o/N.W. fr.br.hazy. din. 57° 
rey 42,123 531123 47| — — 12:28 oÏN. W. fr. br, foggy | 
poy. Att pa N.W. |. br. hazy, foggy at 
iw a range 0 intervals. The moft eafter- 
med the mof ly land in fight bore S. 
ape Fleurieu 1123 16123 46/124 34/12 65512 |28- OM 29° E. the molt wefterly 
N. 250 E. di N. 20° W. diltance of the 
es. At noon neareit land about 3 leag. 
din, 574° 
r. foggy. Th { N.W, varyingto the SW. 
ads bore S, 65 fair. Até P.M. anchored 
yout 3 leagues in 46 fathoms, bottom 
Bic ‘an és Ne Dh muddy ; the placesof :an- 
Pfr, varying td a, + 57 chorage at the bottom ot 
Woody Poin the bay of ‘Monterey: bore 


Barom. | winds State of the Atmofphere; Remarks, 


o|W.S.W. calm, very thick fog 


N. light breeze, foggy. At 
2 P.M. faw land trom. N. 
to E. N. E. diftant about 
6 leagues, {von after fog- 
©: d.n. 684° 

Ne Wa treth-br. hazy. 

At 10 A. M. foundéd in 

#5 and 35 fathoms, bottom 
grey fand. d. 2. 6819 

S. 6. W. fr. br. hagy, rain. 
Sounded in 90 fathoms, 
bottom muddy ; a fog 
-W. fr. br. very thick:fog 

W.N. W very little wind; 
frefh br. at Than. ft. At 
noon faw land to the E,. 
diftant about 12 leagues 

N. very little wind, fair. 
Cape Redondo bore. 8. 48? 
E. Miiftant 6 leagues 

S.S.W. almofta calm, fair. 
Cape Redondo bore §, 81° 
E. diftant’s leagues 

. N. E. frefh br. toggy 

N. |. br. foggy. Saw land 
yelterday ies! to-day. d. 2. 
614° 

N.N.E. freth’ breeze, fog- 

. Land out of fight by 


3 


4 


3] 


E 
i 
| 
{ 


I 


4: 


6.50 W. diftant 2 leagucs. 
Sailed at 13 A. M. 


LA. PEROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Weft Long 
Nort gen ges by the by then f à RUES 
eitude|: Time |ofthe Mo, . | Barom. |Winds; e e‘Atmofphere; Rem 
Latitude, | weet Keeper, | from the ; ‘ Phere; Re 
No. 1g. 


‘ P. L. 
' W. fr. br. fair. At vo'clodi 
P. M. anchored in 12 
thoms, bottom fine fan; 
the landing place: bore 
10° W. the Prefidio S. 
E. land diftant § league 
W.N. W. fr. breeze, fair 
Ditto 
W.S. W. L. breeze, fair 
'W. frefh breeze, fair 
W.N. W. 1. breeze, fair 
j W.N.W. varying tothe 
W. 1. breeze, fair 
W.N. W. frefh br. fair 
N. W. almoft a calm, / 
4 À. M. fet fail; at 
a calm; anchored in 
fathoms, bottom muddy 
the fort bore S. 271 
diftant 2 leagues. Sail 
at x o’clock P. M. 
W.N.W. varying to the 
At:noon the fort: bore 
7° S. diftant 5 leagues 
Cyprefs Point bore fro 
the fort E. 7°S. 
Ne W. fr. br. fair 
W.N. W. frefh br. ha 
d. m. 51° 50! 
. W. frefh br. foggy 
r. br. fair. d. a. 502° 
. E. frs br, cl. 


41123 461124 3417 2 
By its go-| Longit. of 
ing fince | the Point 
leaving. | of Depart. 
Talcaguana 


es 


| 
= 


411124 231123 24 
44H25 
121126 


br. fair 

1. br. fair 

tto, hazy 

W.N.W. very little win 
fair. d. n. 434° 

. W. very little wind, fais 

E.N.E. I. br. fair 

Ditto. d.n. 42° 

Ditto 

E. S. E. fr. br. hazy 

Ditto 

Ditto. d. 2. 414° 

S. very, little wind, hazy 

ree Le very little wind, foggy 

S. 


f 

N 
fi 
E 


2 run OZ 'ZZZ Zen 


= 


rtrd 
RER 


d,n. 41° 
361146 1147 44 E. 1. br. fair 
141148 4] — S.E. fr. br. hazy. dm. 41 
j A calm, a light air from th 
S. S. E. hazy - 
46148 8/249 26 3|A calm, thunder and rain 
— 4lA calm, ft. 
02/149 111 +— 318. W. 1. br. hazy 


N°8, The longitude of monterey, according to all the diftances taken atong the coaft, and referred to this port by the tia 
keeper No 193 fe 124 deg. g Min. Wei. { 


Din Shop Be plie 


3 
3 
3 


14| — — 


Von. IT, 


air, At 1 o’clodé 


ored in 12 
bttom fine {and 
g 3 place bore 
‘ refidio §, 

ant + leapue 

breeze, ps 


breeze, fair 
ze, fair 
breeze, fair 
arying tothe 
7e, fair 
efh br. fair 
oft a calm, 
fet fail; at 
anchored in 
ottom muddy 
ore S. 271 


leagues. Sail 


ar rying to the 
he fort: bore I 

ant 5 leapues 
Point bore fro 
75. 

br. fair 
frefh br. hazy 


ery little wind 
432° 


ttle wind, faig 


. fair 
2° 


or, hazy 

149 

vind, hazy 

> wind, foggy 


ty 
azy. dm. 41% 
cht air from th 


zy 
er and rain 


azy 
this port by the tia 


ROUND THE WORLD. 17 


+ | Rarom. | vinds; State.of the Atmofphere; Remarks. 


D. MD. ted mip. mlo. M! D. |e. L. 


W. the, little wind, rain. 
an. 4 
¢S.S. W. very little wind, 
fair. .Saw.many birds 
ol A calm, rain 
|S ive S. W. varying by W.to 
E. very little w. rain 
§ N. varying to the §. by E. 
ftrong breeze, rain 
Tu do very at wind, fair. 


N. E. varying by E. to S. 
28 3 


N. N. WwW nen Saw 
a number of fea-fwallows 
2's. 6. E. dr, br. ixain 


1S. SE, fr. br. fqually w, cl. 
1|S. 6: W. ft.rain 
o|W.S,W. |.br.:fair, a. 2. 372° 
2[E. SE. very little wind, fair 
3\E.S. E, frefh br.fair 
aE. fr. br. fair, d,n. 36° 
re varying to the S.'E, fr, 
712 br. Saw many birds 
E. gufts of wind, Saw fome 
| birds, At 5 P.M, faw in 
29166 38/164 40 theW. an ifland, to which 
the name of Necker was 
given, din, 344° 
E. NE, freth breeze, At 
; noon Necker Jfland bore 
35|167 25/165 40 be le gt diftant 4 leagues, 
+ more 
tt E. i br, fair, Athalf 
paftone A.M, faw:break- 
ies very near us, bearing 
from. N. to S. W. ‘by: the 


381168 39/:66 47 W. at noon, a fmall iflet 


19 «281176121178 .o 


at the N. W. point of the 
breakers, bore N, diftant 
about 2 leagues 
NA fair, Saw many birds 
gi à weather, cl. : 
N, W. gets cl. 
111174 221173 55 alNfr. brie 
7175331175 5 £9/576 47 | .1]W..1. br. fair 3 
125 59/1765 $8|877 -27 8. 47/19 #28 -o!W.S. W. frefhibr, fair 
. — | 9 30/18 #27 11]W, frefh br. rain 
471198141176 go) — o!W. N. W. 1. br, hazy 
311178 321177 161178 44) — ; 1jW.N. W. 1. br. fair 
Lo E|Long.E.Long.E. 4 
‘13 +49 3 179 6| = 2IN. E. fqually, cl. 
“611977 451479 13] = | oom. |19 #12! 2iN. I. br. fair î 
$al196 511178 35) — | 2iN. N. W. 1. br. fair 
— a\N. W. frefh br, cl. 


Von. IT, 


U 
à 


LA FÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Eaft Long. | Eaft Lone, | variation 4 
the [by the pitt. “OF 
A ofthe mo Seedie | Ther. ee 
Keeper, rom the Eat, 
sun, 


Compute’ 
Lon situde 
bi Eaft 


N. W. varying to theN, 
7121. br. fair 4 
2/S. 1. br. fair | 
1]W. N. W. freth br, hazy 
1|Ditto 
1|S.S.W. frefh br. cl, heavy 
11W.S. W. fqually, ftr, br, d 
2\N. frefh br. cl. 
2IN. E. gufts of wind, cl, 
3lE. N. E.1. br. fair 
2|E. S. E. 1. br. fair 
2|Ditto Ft ; ; 
1]. S. W. little wind, fair 
11W. 1, br. hazy 
1/W.N.W. ftr, br. fqually, 
2IN. frefh br, hazy 
2|N. E. fr. br. fair, heavy fea sor on 
2|E.varying tothe S.E. fr.br.f sth. 
11S. W. very little wind, hay 
2|N. E, frefh br. hazy 
3|E..N. E. frefhibr. cl, . 
3|E..fr. br. fair | 
E. S.E, freth br. fair 

itto 


3 
2 
2/S. W. very little wind, hazy 


At 1 P. M. faw Affump 
tion Ifland S. W. by 
diftant about 10 leagues R 


2 


D 
S. 
N. E. ftr. br. fqually, ¢ 


2] ON. E. fr. br. cl. At noon 


Affunption Tiland boreE 
13°N. diftance two miles 
the Mangs Iflands bor 
N. 30° W, dift. 6 league 
ajE. N. E. frefh breeze, fair 
2/E. light breeze, tair 
1]W.N.W. very little w. hazy 
1}N. W. very little wind, cl, 
5 N.W. 1. br. fair. The fwe 
j is from the North 
N. N. E, frefh br. fair 
E. N. &. fteth br. fair 
N..E. frefh br. fair . 
N.E. ftr. br. fair 
E. varying to N, fr. br, fair 
N.N.E. ftr. br. cl. 
4lE. frefh br. hazy, rain 
*4lE. frefh br. .guits of w. cl. 
E.N.E, fr.br.fair. At noon 
the, moft. nortberly. of the 
Bafhee Iflands bore $, 40° 
W. dit. about 3 leagues 4 
Evang tp the ay E, 
frefh br. cl. w. At un. 
' rife faw one of the BateQ 3°? S0/t# 39 
Idands, bearing E, 34°5. 


2 


2 
2 
3 
3 
3 


PPUEEPET PTET AT EEE Edad 
RENE ltd 


ROUND THE WORLD. 19 


4 Compute’ 
North p 7 
Latitude, | 205 ee Mo. } Ther. | Barom. | winds; State of the Atmofpheres Remasks, 


itt 
D. M.D. MD. M.\D. phon re M. D. P, L. 
AgtotheNR 22 20116 19 — 19 [28 1N. NE. ftr. br. fqually, hazy 
; ¢ f ; 
| iA 19/313. 541115 55 o 30/14 1/28 4!N.N.E. and N.E. ftr. br. cl. 
h br. hazy ; | E. N.E.fr.br. cl. At 5 
A.M. faw Piedra-Blanca, 
cl. heavy bearing N. N. E. diltant 
ily, tr br, ¢ 2 leagues. At noon faw 
: a number of iflands; the 
ind, cl, 432 10112 29 great Lemma bore: S, 65° 
fair F W. diftant 5 kagues; at 
fair Atanchoe 7 P..M. anchored in 14 
\ rm pl. on Coa’ 
of China. tathoms, bottom muddy, 
ind, fair 12 leagues from Macao, 
which bor- W. 1° S. 
br. fqually, ; N. frefh br. fqually. Ats 
P.M. anchored in 54 fath. 
ir, heavy fea 4) At Macao À 4 bottom muddy, 14 leag. 
S.E. fr.br.f FUN irom Macao, which bore 
wind, hazy W. 15. 
ha: N.N.E, frefh br. At 2 
} pift 11, N. 
— IN. E. treth breeze, fair 
N. E. freth breeze’ 
Here the date ischangedto the 
|e E. of the Meridian of Paris 
ittle wind, fair 
. E. fr. br. fair 
br. fair 
fr. br. fair 
fr. br. fair 
br. hazy 
 qualls » hazy 
br. hazy 
. E. ftr. br. hazy 


[TI 
lt. 
ll 


wind, hazy 
+ fqually, ¢ 
faw Alfons 
Ê W. by 
10 leagues 
cl. At noon 
Ifland boreE 
ice two miles 
Iflands ‘bor 
itt. 6 league 
reeze, fair 
fair 

ittle w. hazy 
e wind, cl, 
ir. The fwe 
lorth 

r. fair 

r. fair 

air : 


= by 


E, 
E. 
E. 
N. 
E. 
N. 
N 


be tt SBP z3 


fr. br. fair 


.E. 
Aa 
tr. 
fr. br. fair 
*E. 
. E. itr. br. fair 


N. 
N. 
N. 
N. 
N 


222 


= 


ito 
. E. fr. br. fair 


Æ 


N. 
N. 
Di 


a S 
2, © 


m, rain 

. E. fr. br. fair 
.br. fair 

. E. fr. br. fair 
1. br. fair 

. fy. br. fair 


A 
N 


mz z 


ir 
fr, br, fair 


cl. 


E. 
IN, 
N. 
Di 


ET 
© 


PEPPEPETETA PETE ETE a baad 
PETEEVVCTEEELPDEA Eda added 
PYPUTTEEEEEEPU TLE 
ee ee 
PPP EP TEEPE EEE 
PEPE TPE EET EPP EET PEt ead 
PEPE PUTT PETE ET TTT 


y) rain E. N. E. fr. br. fair 
of w. cl. N.N. E. I. br. hazy 
air. At noon N. |. br. hazy 

berly. of the Ditto : 

s bore $, 40% E. fr. br. hazy 

t 3 leagues 1. br, fair 

he N.N,E, 


v. At un. 
F the Bathee 


ig E, 34°5 


at 7 A.M.; at noon the 
largeft of the Ladrone 
Iflands bore N. 32° W. 


+ 
re 
+ 
a 
© 
14 
C1 
~ 
fond 
‘wo 
| 
| 
| 
~ 
» 


N. 
N. 
QE .fr.br. Sailed from Macao 


LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Eaft Long. |Eaft Long. 
# by theDift. 


of the Mo. . | Barom, | Windes State of the Atinofphire; Rema 


Lh. 
11N. fr. br, fair 
1 WS Li ri ‘ol fair 
LIN: De Ths . 
2 E. N. E, fr. or PS 
2IN. N. E, fqually, cl, 
o 5018 1128 2)N. E. fr. br. fair 
20 #28 2|Ditto 
LE. N. E, fr. br. fair 
1/E. S. E. little wind, fair 
11$. S. E. very little wind, fa 
W.S,W. very little win 
fair. At noon the ifla 
of Bantam bore E, 31° | 
diftant 6 leagues 


PIPE EEEEDE, 


© 


the ifle of Bantam bore I 


x Ww, 1. br. fair, A: nou 
© 


19° $. diftant 5 leagues 
W.S.W. very little w. fai 
Bantam Ifle bore E, 43° 
N. fr. br. fair. At noontl 
Me Bantam bore §, 57° 
E. fr.br.fair.| At neon Poi 


Capones bore N. 75° €. 


nes bore N. 75° E. 
N.E. frefh br. fair. Poi 
Mirabella bore §. 82° E 
the middle of that iflay 
iL S. 88° R. 
E.1. br. fair, ThePuerco 
or Hogs, bore N. 52° I 
and the Moha, N. 87° 


2 
j E. |. br. fair. Point C 


1 


At} paft 5 P. M. anchom 


ed in the Port of Mi 
bella. Wind the fam 
| till the-24th at-noon 
2 ‘ | E..N. E. fr. br, 
Mid, 7 |. [CNE frefh br. fair, gail 
|) at8 ALM. At6P. 
ae . | ‘) -anchored in the Bay 
Manilla 
.N.E. tbr. Stood offa 
on for Cavita. The Mol 
-bore S.-50°E. -Sailed at 
At anchor | A.M. At noon, Cari 
26 in the bay | bore E.8N. At 7P. 
vins à anch, a ‘leaguefrom Ci 
vita, tothe N.-65° W. 
11 fath, bottom muddy 
N.N, E.-varying to the I 
.N. E. freth br. fair, 
-5 A. M. fet fail, and at 
S7L At tener -anchored in the port 
eee teas At the ob: | Cavita, two cables lengt 
/ At | from land. Here we 1 
mained till April 14 


PLevaaeadd 


PEED TUTE EAAP TAT EGTA edd 


Phidbbadeda 


PPTUTIPTAL EET AT ETAT ddl 


21 


Ther. | Matog. | winds; State of the Atmolpheres Remise 


Casilla pren) 


EN.E. fr br fair. The 
ir mm vita bore N. 
» fair thons, high water © 


ly, cl, 
Ny 


— |A calm, fair 
N. freth breeze, fair 
N. N. E. ditto 
IN. E. ditto | 
Ditto 
E.N.E. ditto 
-— N. E. ditto 
28 1|Ditto 
28 1|E. N. E. ditto 
agues _ ra E. ditto 
fair, At nog — |Ditto 
antam bore I | (E.N.E. fr. br, fair. Shifted 
nt 5 leagues anchor this day, and an- 
little w. faim | — — |: < chored in 4 fathoms, bot- 
bore E, 33° | ddy. The fort of 
r. At noontl À "ee 
bore S, 57° 1 = 
At neon Poi : 
re N.7 SE, 
l'e Point C 
N.7$E. 
or. fair, Poi 
ore §. 822E 


of that iflay 


- The Puerco: 
ore N. 5° i 
ha, N. 87° 
P. M. ancho 
Port of Mi 
ind the fam 
h at-‘noon 


fair 

ind, fair 
ttle wind, f: 
ery little win 
oon the ifla 
bore E, 37° 4 


» © 


RRRERRRIES 
Phiddbereda 
ÉRRRERERSEE 
PLdbdrbeddd 
Tibiddi tid 
PPP redid 


.N.N. varying to N. ditto 
E. light breeze, fair 
. N.E. freth breeze, fair 
N. N.E. ditto 
Ditto 
IN. E. ditto 
Ditto 
E. N. E. ditto 
N. E. ditto 
Ditto 
N. ditto 
N.N.W. ditto. d. 2. 11° 5! 
N. E. ditto 
E. N. E. ditto 
Ditto 
Ditto 
N. E. ditto 
E.N. E. ditto 
N. E. ditto 
Ditto 


w 


o F 
1 F444 datas 


re 3 

or. fair, Sail 
At:6 P. 

n the Bay 


. Stood offa 

ta. The Mo 

E. -Sailed at 

t noon, Cavi Ditto 

N. At 7 P; Ditto 

guefrom C2 | N.E.fr.br. Warped the thip 
N. 65° W. : to about 3 cables length to 

tom muddy Zt the IN. E. by E. The fort 

vying to (UT: À LL of Cavita bore N. 69° E. 
br. fair, À N.E.fr.br. Warped the thip 

t fail, and at : | to the ftream N. 3 cables 

1 the port length; (grelins). Fort © 

> cables lens, : , Cavitathen bare N. 88° E. 
‘Here we r N. E. frefh br. faie. Pre. 

April 13 ~~ JE pared for failing 


PEUPETTAV ETAT TT ETT ETT 
PTUETETAPTEETET TED Eade 
BRIE 
DEA IIIENIEETIANETITTENAT 


PEINTRE ETAT ATT AT Tea 
DIVINE 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Eaft L va Y Variation 
of the | ther. | Barom. Windss State ofthe Atmotphere, ner 


M.D. M.\D. M.ID. M.D. M. D. |P. L| - 
: NN. E. fr. br, fair. Set fai 
at noon, Fort Cavita bo 
N. 90° E, diftant 1 mile 
i my A à little wind 
ir int of t 
20 $28 210 Hand of Tw Sita 
N. 46° E, diftant a leagu 
* ‘ire br. fair. Point Bol 
312 mao bore E. 27°N, 
norther : land in fight bore 
S. 63° E 
1|A calm, fair: 
2\N.1. br. At noon a calm 
2jN.N. W. hight br, fair 
HE. N. E. fr. br, fair 
HE. |. br. fair 
iN. N. E. very little wind, fai 
3lE. |. br. tair 
3|N. N. E. ditto 
3|N. ditto 
3|N. N. W. very Tittle w, fair 
3IN. N. E. fr. br, fair 


Sa 
=> 


PS PTI TILth 
Pride ded de 


N.N.E. fr. br. fair. Fo 
feveral days before, had 
failed over a bank, wher 
we founded from 22 to 12 
fath. bott. fand and rock 

N.N. W. very little wind, 
fair, Port Zealand boreE. 

3°S. diftant 3 leagues, At 
4 P. M. anchored in17 
tathoms, bottom muddy 


321127 42/117 59118 16 


Zealand bore §. 45° E. 
diftant 4 leagues. At noon 
acalm. At7 P.M. an. 
chored in 37 fathoms, bot- 
tom muddy. Set fail, the 
wind at N.N.E. 

jh ‘i 7 ftr. breeze, fqually 


N. à breeze, fair, At 
6 P.M. the moft fouther- 
ly of the Pefcador Iflands 
bore N. 64° W. diltant 
about 2 leagues _ 

E.S.E. Ï, br: fair. Lamay 
Tfland line 38° E. dif 
tant 6 leagu 


‘ E. varying stheN by the 


521317 49/117 42 


N.N. W. very little wind, 
Sailed at 4 À. M. Port 


E. |. br. ft.andr. At noon, 
the Ifland of Botol, or Ta- 

baco-xima, bore N. 7° W. 
diftant 5 leagues 


+ fair. Set fai 
t Cavita bo 

Rant 1 mile 

y little wind 
+ point of th 
Vo Sifters bor 
tant a lea 


din fight bore 


on a calm 
br. fair 


. fair 


ttle wind, fai 


| 
little w. fair 
. fair 
br. fair. Fo 
before, had 
à bank, wher 
from 22 to 12 
nd and rock 
ry little wind, 
aland boreE, 
3 leagues, At 
chored in 17 
tom muddy 
y little wind, 
A.M. Port 
e §. 35° E. 
ues. Atnoon 
7 P.M. an- 
fathoms, bot- 
Set fail, the 
E 


reeze, fqually 


e, fair, At 
moft fouther- 
cador Iflands 
PD W. diftant 
1es | 

fair. Lamay 
. 38° E. dil 


8 

b the N. by the 
dr. Atnoon, 
Botol, or Ta- 
ore N.7°W. 
rues 


ROUND THE WORLD. : - 


Eaft Long.| Eaft Lon 


Keeper, | from the 


Cat. & Loa, 
28 of the N. 330 


‘of Noni” 
0 ort 
55| of North |x27 


by the [by thenints| Variation 


ime of the Mo, 


of the 
Needle 
Eaft, 


Ther. | Bsrom. 


Wind; State of the Atmofphere ; Remarks, 


N.E. 1. br. fair. The Ifland 
Botol bore N. $° Ww, dif. 
tant 3 leagues. At 6 P.M. 
it bore N. 47° W. diftant 
1 league. 


1)N.E. varying tothe E.fr.br.fr. 


2E.S.E. ve 


little wind, fair 
S. E. little wind, fair. At 
noon the N. E. poinc of the 
Ifle of Kumi bore E. 14° 
S. and the S. E. point bore 
S. 28° E. dift. two miles 
.E. fr, br, fair, At 8 A.M, 
the Ifland Hoapinfu, or 
South Ifland, was in the 
fame bearing as North 
Ifland,N.48E. Our dif- 
tance froin the former was 
. 2. miles, and from the lat- 
ter 6 leagues. At noon, 
the Tfland Hoapinfu bore 
S. 20° W. dift. 8 leag, and 
the North Ifland bore §, 
22° E. diftant 4 leagues 
. S. W, frefh br. tair 
§.W. vary, to N.N.£.fr;br, 
S.S.W. L.br.foggy, Sounds 
ed in 55 and 50 tathoms, 
bottom fand : 
S,S.W. varying to the W, 
© N.W. L br. fr. very foggy 
w. Sounded in 65 and 4¢ 
fathoms, bottom muddy 
S.S.E. very little wind, fogs 
gy: At # paft 6 P.M.an- 
chored in 45 fathoms, bot- 
. tom mine 
W.S. W. I. breeze, foggy, 
Sounded in 45 and 50 ta- 
thoms, bottom muddy, Ag 
7 P.M. anchored in 42 fae 
\ thoms. bottom muddy 
"S. S. W. very little wind, 
Rill forgy. At s P, M, 
fet fail. At 10 P, M, 
anchored in 39 fathoms, 
bottom muddy, very thick 


fog 

S.S.W.I. br, At ro A.M, 
fet fail, wind at E. N, E, 
1. br. fair 

E.N.E. 1. br. hazy. Sound 
ings from 45 to 24 fi 
thoms, bottom muddy 


24 


mr lite, ment 


Keeper, from the 


No 19e 


Maunho 47/133 44, — 


19/32 “15124 spa 42 


i ) 


« | 
f 
#7l122 4 3 0 
f 


Wires ro) ae 
34l1a3 45/123 56 


59 124 161124 23 124 é 
/ | 

! : | 
‘40/1125 731125 22 Lee 
\ ‘ 

7 | 
j » | 

‘ | | 
3} 446 ‘31146 "2)| — | 


310126 46[ri6 
: | | 


“églt27 251127 351127 12 
; 1] ) 
% 7 \ | 

23/127 7 il —. 
! 


DES | 


“gilra8 hs dl — 


D. MID. MID. MP. D. MD. M 


D à 


ce aces Reed e 


1 ‘45/12 


ces 


I 


Ther. 


M| D. 


12 }/28 o! 


11 thy aby 


LA PeRovsE’ 8 VOYAGE 


Barom. | Winde; State of the Atmofphere; Re 


L, P. 
28 o 


10 427 ny 


11 iT °| 


13 ls 


13 


12 


sax 


|27 10 


27-11 


t 


| 
4h7 14 


17 11 


i 
ri 
“ti 


E.N.E.very little w. f 
Sounded in 36 and goth 
. very little wind. Sounds 
in 36 and 25 fathoms, bot 
tom fandy. At} patts / 
M. anchored in 25 fath 
At 10 fet fail; at noont 
wind at E.very dead, hazy 
At4 pait 8P, -anchore 
in 32 fath, bottom fani 
E. very little wind, Seth 
at 6 A.M.wind at E.fr,) 
hazy. At 4 patt6 P, 
jored i in 25 fath. bo 
tom fandy. At 6 fet fai 
1, airs at N. the current 
miles per hour 
.V AU little wind, foggy 
W. fr. br.cl. SLA 
in 36 atid 40 fathoms 
W.S.W. |. br, At noont 


W. point ‘of uelpaert I 
bore N, cole Mahe 
leagues. dum. 45° 5 
‘little wind, fair, TI 
fouthermott ifands | infigh 
Lig N.1 ut the W..mo 
9° W. diff. 5 league 
. 1. br, fair; sel fe 
The fouthernmok coat ¢ 
Corea in view, bore 
35° N. the northernme 
N, 27° E, dift. 3 leagu 
. N.E, little wind, fai 
The northernmoit coaft ¢ 
Corea, in- view, bore 
20°F. Ran along this co 
at 2 leagued diftance 
S. W. frefh br, fair, Th 
northernmolt point ofC 
fea boreiN, 20° W. dif 
2 leagues. Soundediin 
fathoms. din. 44° 
à NIE.l,brlft. a Rp 
À veted us from feeing la 
NW). bre hazy. Theno 
thernmoft lan of Corea 
fight bore N. 52° W. di 
tant 8 leagues, Steered 
theE. to explore the ifla 
“of Japan.’ At 3 P.Mif 
an ‘fiend bearing N. 15° 
dift! 15 lea . Atnoont 
“fiddle oft is ifland, cal 
[fe Dagelet, bore N.17° 
diftant 4 leagues. dia. 45 


"| North 


, | tatitud 


ROUND THE WORLD. 25 


Hatt Lon,, | Fat Lon 
Wi! orth | Computed | by the by thepit| Variation 
4 Ther. | Barom. |Winds; State of the Atmofphere; Remarks. 
LE", 


M | gtude, | hongitude | Time |of the Mo, 
ite Of the Atmofphere, Re à dan | meepers | tram the 


M.D. M|D. MID. MID. Mj D.\P. L. 


8 — 2 P 
Every little w. foggy a5 wie + 1 nr. of a tant 1989s, fr. br. fair 
inded in 36 and 40 fa |Dag-lev 0. bupeletiil, S.S.E. fr. br. fair, At 6 
ya sable « Soundy 18 zal129 47/129 45] — | 1 4412 [28 1 ft + She fight of Dage- 
ioms, bo et Hla 
n fandy. At} pats A 448 221130 34/130 41 — | 428 (|S. S. E. treth br. fair 
ner in 25 fatty, 158 12131 27131 35 — 28 «6118.8 SE. 1. br. fair 
By bond Ir 4: 101132 13 © 36113 i ofS. v fy, toN.E. 1. br. fair 
4 pait sP. adie 137 171132 341132 32 o 20/12 3128 a} SN he pis to the 8, F. 
32 fath. bottom fani 131133 17) — — 13 |27 1118. little wind, foge 
ty lie wind. Se 71433 321133 38) — — 12 |28 ofS. 1. br. foggy. 44 47° 
MW at£ir, 4 —_— = 8 
SALE x || “ RIRE ET à hour pi ù 
jored in ? fath. bo 51) ot youth 1135 20) “ju fe moft point bore E. 9° £ 
n'fandy. At 6 fet fai | Latituite of Lone. of Ran along the coatt of Jas 1e 
ap ba og current PCC Ley een pan, and pafled to the E. 
ele wind, f Lee" + JF of the Tland Jootf-fimes 
yw, fet nd, ogpy 18 the $.-mott 13 thes. itt which bore at 4P. M. E. 
re br.cl. Sounds pus Oy) Sp bine in and W. The point of the 
36 aT 40 fathoms japan, Japan, fame name bore S. 66° E. 


. At noont 281134. 40/134 55) — sania LL 11S. E. I. br, hazy 
“pained gent 20133 31/133 39) — | oO 7133 11S. S. W. freth br. foggy 
gues. den. 45° Wet. 
Matilda 3 he ut hehe: sito 2|$ yw Ww. ioe is fqualls, 
ithermoft iflands infi | en dou 
te N, 1495 the Ward ap tote 
«M0 10 aw the north 
9° W. dift. 5 league 491131 56131 4ol130 54 o 3,10 coaft of Corea, in the N. 
1, vt fair; a calm fe 3 At noon, were dift. from 
ni Te lad Fatt. Ay 12 leagues. d,#,47° 3 
° .N, the nortlternmo 55,131 48131 45131 61 6) 9 2127 7 
, 27° E, ditt. 3 leagw 
N. E. little wind, fai 
he northernmott coat 5132 16132 23 
prea. in-view, bore 
SE. Ran along this co 
2 leagues diftance 
. frefh br, fair. T 
tl ft point of C ss 
bore ee W. di 491132 43132 41 P 
leagues. Sounded i in 
thoms. di Nn. 44 
IE. |, bri tt. ap 
nted us from feeing la 43 31133 45/233 56 
ol. bis hazy. The no 
ernmoft lan of Corea 
rh: bore N. 52° W. di 
nt 8 leagues, Steered 
e E.to explore the ifla 
Japan.’ At 3 P.M.f 
ifland bearing N. 15° 134 32] — 3 e 
| t 
ft 15 leag. At non 44.47) — 27 9! 
| 


§.S.W. varying to the Ww. 

“fr. bre din 48° 5! 

“N.E.|. br. toggy. At noon 
the N.-moft land in fight . 
bore N. 2 E. and the 
W.-molt, N. 65° W. dil- 
tant 5 leagues 


‘ .W. little wind, fair. The 
11S. S 
915. 


land which at noon bore N. 
was dift. 2 leag. Sounded 
at that dift. in 120 fath. 

bottom muddy. dm, 53° 
U Bi W. light breeze, fair. 

Ran along the coat oi 
Tartary, at the diftance of 
2 or 3 le agues 
S.S.E. light! ~reeze », forge. 
Always | in hEnt of land. 
d. LE «5° 

S. W. little wind, foggy 
E. very littl wind, togsy 
at y vals. d.n. 55° 
S.W. 1. be. very thick fog 
S.W. com br. togyy 


31234 21, — 


q 


oi 33134 28 
À 
a 


iddle of this ifland, call | 7 
de Dagelet hore N.17° ad M 52 “ras 13 »7 10 
ftant 4 leagues. dim 45 

Vou. II, 


des 


July, | Latitude. 
1787. 


Jy. 1147 


2147 521137 
At anchor 
in the bay 
of Suffren, 


3147 51 


Eat son Fatt Long. 
by theDift. 
of the Mo,| : 


Variation 
of the 


neareft land dift, 4 leag, 


S.S. W .very little wd fogo yim 


at intervals. At noon the 

N. -moft land in fight bore 

N. 20° E. and the nearef 

land bore N. 29° W, 

.E. frefh breeze, fair, y 

Kil j thick fog ae 

Acalm, fair. The neareft 

land bore W. 20°N, dif. 
tant 3 leagues 


- |" E. freih breeze, fair. 


27 10 


At anchor in the bay o 
Ternai 
A calm, rain in the courfe 
eae # of the day 
8 |28 o|N.E. 1. br. fair 


dia 3 ao 


pue fr. br. fair. The nearet 


land bore N. 46° W, dif. 
tant 2 leagues. d. #. 580 
54137 34 : 11|N. N. E. overcatt, |. or. 
W.S.W. |. br. foggy at in. 
tervals. The neareft land 
bore N. 55° W. diftant 3 
leagues. At 7 P.M. an. 
chored in 36 fathoms, bot. 
tom none 2 leag. from 
land; foggy 
34137 22 ,8 ofS. light He 


At 10 P.M. fet fail to ap- 
proach the fhore ; wind at 


33137 37 


S. foggy. At .noon an- 
chored in 2.5 fathoms, hot 
tom fand and pebbles, 1 
mile from land 
N.E. 1}. br. At8 A.M. 
the Bifcay yawl was fent 

4 afhore, but could not land 
on account of the fog 
Set failat 8 A.M. At noon 
a calm, foi eey: At6 P.M. 
anchored in 44 fathoms, 
bottoin fine fand 

28137 48 10]./, 2. 60° 5! 

ne fail” at noon, and ran 


25 


along the coa't of Tartary; 
the wind at N.N.E, light 
breeze, foggy 


20 139 19 


aly 
bl 


ide. 


fh breeze, fair, 
br in the bay o 


rain in the courfe 


leagues 

air. The nearet 
N. 46° W, dif. 
gues. d.n, 58° 
reaft, |. or. 
.br.foggy at in. 
The neareft land 
5° W. diltant 3 
At 7 P.M. an- 
36 fathoms, bot- 
dy, 2 leag. from 


SY 


e 
MI. fet fail to ap- 
e fhore ; wind at 
At .noon an- 
25 fathoms, bot- 
and pebbles, 1 
land 
At8 A.M. 
y yawl was fent 
it could not land 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


27 


ee. eed aoa "Renn ROGERS EN EPERSRSERA (ERR LME VÉÉÉÉSEE | eaten ec dé 


é as mn sons Eaft vee 
ompute y the /by theD 

ofthemo.| of the 
Keeper, bia the 


py, | North | congitude| Time 
iyty. | Latitude. | “OSB 
No. 19. 


eee | Core | 


D. M.D. M.\D. M.\D. 


311139 19/139 11 


231139 321139 41 


151139 ite 54 


221139 53,139 57 


Variation 
Needle | Ther. 
Eaft, 


MJD. M.| D. 


41140 10140 16139 20] I 


531140 101140 25 


Latitude of 


ong. of 
49 nr ig 140 29 the suet 


13/140 0 


271139 29 


— |0 47lrr 


oO 49/13 


Barom. |Winds; State of the Atmofpheres Remarks. 


S. fr. br. At 8 A.M. fawa 
very high peak, and a low 
point, bearing N. 80° E. 
diftant 10 leagues. The 
N.-moft point in fight of 
the continent of Tartary 
bore N. diftant 9 leagues ; 
fair w. Atnoon Lamanon 
Peak bore N. 66° E. ditt. 
12 leag. the neareft land 
of Tartery in fight bore N. 

L 45° W. d. n. 63° 

‘A calm, hazy w. At noon 
the N. point of the ifland 
of Segalien in fight, bore 
N. 35° E. Lamanon Peak 
bore N. 44° E. and the 

S.-moftland E. d.2. 63° 5’ 

S. S. W. 1. br. very thick 
fog. Sounded in 62 fa- 
thoms, bottom muddy 

S. little wind, foggy 

S. S. W. frefh br. fair. At 
noon the entrance of a bay 
bore S. 33° E. diftant 6 
leagues ; and the neareft 
point of land S.83° E.dift. 
4 leagues. d.n. 65° 3! 

“§. trefh br. fair. Lamanon 
Peak bore N. 1° E. the 
entrance of a bay N. 73° 
E. diftant 3 leagues, and 
the neareft land S. 45° E. 
diftant 2 leagues 

S.fr. br. fair. At 6P. M. 
anch. in Baie de Langle, 
in the Ifland of Segalien,in 
14 fath. the village bore 
E. 24° S. à of a league 

. Ats A.M. 

failed from Baie de Lan- 
gle. d. n. 63° 5’ 


iS. frefh breeze, foggy 


11/S. S. W. ditto 
10|S. ditto 
10|S. S. E. |. br. foggy 


221139 9 


tof the fog 2 
201138 47 


A.M. At noon 


egy. At6 P.M. 
in 44 fathoms, 
ie {and 


noon, and ran 
oat of Tartary; 
tN.N.E, light 
53 


121138 42 


S. S. E. frefh br. overcaft. 
Lamanon Peak bore N. 
65° E. diftant 4 leagues, 
and the neareft point of 
land N. 80° E. diftant 2 
leagues. At2 P. M. an. 
chored in Baied’Eftaing,in 
20 fath. bottom muddy, 
+ of a league from land 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Eaft Long.| Eaft Long. 
by the by thepitt, 
ime the No. 
Keeper, jé the 
No. 19. sun. 


et 


Computed 
orth 

thd oat Longitude 
3. | ‘Latitude, Fait. 


éme | 


Variation 


of the 
Need)e 


Eañ, 


D. MJD. MIL 


311140 261140 30) — 


521140 31/140 38139 59 


24151 


29140 261140 29) — 


25151 291939 46/139 47) — 


o 55114 


Ther. 


Earom. | Wind ; State of the Atmofphere ; Remarks 


S. 1. br. | Ata A.M, fet 
fail, the wind S. frefh br, 
hazy. At 7 P.M. anchored 
in 39 fathoms, bottom find 
fand, 1 league from land, 
d n. 64° 

S. 1. br. rs At4 AM. 


fet fail; at noon the neare( 


land bore N. 11° E, dif. 


tant 2 leagues 


leagues. At 4 pait 2 an. 
chored 42 fath. bot. mud- 
dy, 14 league from land 
S. almoft a calm, foggy. At 
5 A.M. fet fail; al, br, 
from the S. fuir. ” Our an 
choring place, called Ruif- 
eau des Saumons, bore S. 
10°E. and the neareft lan 


E. 22° S. 14 leag. Sound. 
ed in 395 38, 35 30, and 
29 fathoms, bottom fandy, 


till4 P.M. Ato, 24 fa- 
thoms. At? pat 9, an- 
chored in 22 fathoms, bot. 
tom fandy 

Pt 1. br. At3 A.M. fet fail; 
at noon, the neareft land 
i E. 20° N. diftant 4 


near the middle of the 


channel of Tartary. At {} 


paft 7 P. M. anchored in 
24 fathoms, bottom mud- 
dy. d.n. 71° 
S.1. br. hazy. At4 A.M, 
fet fail; foggy, |. breeze; 
courte welterly. Soundet! 


in 22, 20, and 12 fathor 5, 


till } paft 9, when we came 
toanchor. At 2 o'clock 
fet fail, and ftood to the N. 
E. running along the hore 
At 4 paît 7 founded in 19 
fathoms, bottom fandy; 
anchored fame hour, 2 


| _ leagues from land 
} 


S. 1. br. hazy w. Sounded 
from 80 to 45 fath. rang. 
ing along Segalien Ifland. 
At noon the neareft land 
bore E. 11° N. diftant 2 


leagues and the S.-mol 
land bore N.6°E. Sound. 
ed in 15, 16, 18, 20, and 
28 
22 fathoms, as we drew 


RE | Nort! 
Latitude. 
a 
eee 


D. M.\D. 


h Compute 
Longituda 
Eaft. 


st 40140 
er 441140 


ST 291139 


1951 29/139 4 
30 


31 


191140 : 


LH 
nofphere ; Remarks, 
(ial 


t 4 A. M. fet 
dS. frefh br, 
P.M. anchored 
s, bottom fine 
ue from land, 


. At4 AM, 
oon the neare/ 
+ 119E, dif. 
es 
yw. Sounded! 
45 fath. rang. 
egalien Ifland, 
e neareft land 
ON. diftant 2 
At + palt 2 an. 
ath. bot. mud. 
ue from land 29151 


st 
le 


18151 


fuir. Ouran 
e, called Ruif- 
mons, horeS, 
he neareft lan 
3 leag. Sound. 
8, 355 30, and 
y bottom fandy, 
» Ato, 24 fa 
t % patt 9, an. 
2, fathoms, bot. 


. A.M. fet fail; 
se nearelt land 
ON. diftant 4 
d the S.-mott 
1.6°E. Sound- 
6, 18, 20, and 
3, as we drew] 
nicdle of the 
artary. Atl 
M. anchored in 
» bottom mud- 
12 
» At4 AM. 
yey, |. breeze; 
rly. Sounded 
nd 12 fathor 5, i 
, when we caine 
At 2 o'clock 
ftood to the N. 
along the fhore, 
founded in 19 
ottom fandy; 
ame hour, 2 
1s land 


9148 


North 
# À Latitude. 


eal 


D. M. D. M. 


alm, foggy. At 40) — 
t fail; al. br Jr em 


ROUND THE WORLD. 29 


Fatt Long.| Eaft Lon 
Computed; by the? by theDitt Variation 
Longitude | Time | ofthe Mo.) Needic | Ther. | Barom. | Winds; Stateof the Atmofphere; Remarkss 
Eaft. Keeper, | fromthe tt 

No. 19 Sun. k 


D. .M.\D. MD. M D. |L. P. 


S.S.W. Saiïled at ro A.M. 
fe ftood off and on co 
get to the fouthward into 
deeper water 


S. S. W. ftr. breeze, rather 
foggy. Sounded from 8 to 


40140 3 


TR a a À et 123: 148 
44 14 


9) 12) 14, 15, 38, and 21 

tathoms, bottom muddy. 

Sounded P. M. in 18, 16, 

15, 14, 13, and 12 fath. 

At 4 paît 7 P.M. anch. in 

Bai: de Caftries, in 11 fa- 

tons, bottom muddy 

S. S. W. frefh breeze, fair. 

Shifted anchors and an. 

chored in 5% fathoms, bot- 
| tom muddy 

— 12 |27 11S. very little wind, foggy 

— |13 |27 10/E. S. E. very little wind 

— {13 |27 1115.S.E. 1. br. fair 

1 50] — |27 111$. very little wind, fair 


CE. N. E. very little wind, 
| varying tothe S.E. At 


| 
| 
| 
La 
re 
te 
ce 


291139 51 


29/139 41 


4 P.M. fet fail. At8 
P. M. Cape Cloftercam 
bore S. 18° W. Sounded 
in 12 and 14 fathoms 
S.S.W. varying to the §.S. 
E. very little wind. At 
noon, the nearett land bore 
N. 35° E. 


Li S. W. varying to the §. 


19,140 141140 7] — | 1 713 #28 of 


S.E. very little wind, fair. 
Soundings increafed as we 


$1139 27,139 27) — | 1 128 ol¢ fteered foutherly, to 45 ta- 

ss oblate 4 Et a 4 thoms. At fidoh the land 
bore W. 11° N. diftant 3 
leagues. 

35139 521140 16 — [io |27 111$. fr. br. toggy w. 


| 
| 
LS 
+ 


18139 53/139 50 
61140 7) — _ r 8l:i3 


fea, haz 
131139 411139 28) — Fe is coatt of Tartarv, bearing 
48° E. 


27 «91S. fr. br. hazy 
27 6 fs S.W. Fath leesse, heavy 
S.S.W. frefh breeze, vary- 
ing to the N. round by 
W. and E. N. E. very 
little wind, fair. Saw the 
S. 55° W. and N. 38° E. 
Lamanon Peak bore S. 
N. ftr. br. fair. Lamanon 
» 4 Peak bore N. 48° E. the 


138 53) © 52 


| 


251140 55140 1 S.-moft point in fight bore 


S. 66°F, 


= HE à de ET 
" ETES EEE 


aR pra er aan pati he et 


D eae 
=" = = PLu BEL a. 


30 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Eaft Long 
Auguit,| North |Computed! bythe [by thebi 


3787. | Latitude. FAR meee (i 
NO. 19. 


i Variation 


of the | ther. | sarom. | Winds; State of the Atmofphere; Rema; 


eee me — | cece | 


. MID. M\D. M. D. |P. L. 


241140 11/138 37| 1 27113 4/27 10 


211140 


27/141 


91142 
20/143 

91144 
571144 
191146 7/146 21 
271148 61148 9 
10/148 50/1438 56 


141148 47| — 


12/148 49148 9 


22/149 24149 15 


N. ftr. br. fair, a large fe 
The middle of Monnerg 
If. bore S, 29° W. and t 
Peak of Bernizet N, 32°F 
At half patt 7. P, M. a 
chan in 40 fathoms, bo 


Ifland N.55° W. and Cad 
Crillon E. 18° S, 


IP fr. br. fair. Aty A, 


fet fail,with a].air,at noo 
At & pattrr,acalm. À 
chored 2 leag. from Poi 
Crillon bearing N, 72° 
Langle Peak ‘bore S. 3q 
W. AtÆpait 12 at noo 
fhifted anchor, when Cap 
Crillon bore S. 13°E. an 
Langle Peak S. 29° W, 
A calm, fair, At8 A.M 
failed and pañed the ftra 
which feparates Jefo fru 
Oku-Jeflo; wind at N.E 
1. br. hazy 
Si ain, fair. Cap 
nn bore N. 30° E. an 
ane le Peak S. 81° W. 
- br. fair. At noo 
Cape Ania bore N,9°E 


. E à br, fair. Cap 


É 
| Aniva bore §. 84° W. 
a ie .S.E. fr, br. hazy, foggy: 
d.n. 54° 
E. S. E. varying tothe N 
i E. hazy 
N. vileaingto.8: S.E. roun 
by E.' little wind, foge 
at intervals. d.2. 58° 
gS. fr. br. hazy. Saw Siate 
| § I(land, which bore $.1°F 
S.W. tr. br. cl. Ran alor 
a Staten Ifland 


Ay F4 Pa wind, foggy 


Ay L ges resin to the W 
S. Rk foggy 

S. Ww. raving to the 
S. “a wind, very thick 
fog 


© 


S. light breeze, foggy. One 
of the Four Brothers 
Iflands, bore S. 2° W. 
din, 52° 5 


$ 27l10 27 1 


= 


Computed 
Me, i + tude 


D. D. M. D. M. 
1547 281149 47 


647 201149 48 


111150 


‘53 1 


| Anchared 
a: Awatf- 
| cha from 
Sept, 8, tol 
| goth. 


tmofphere; Remar 


15147 
ir, a large fe 


¢ of Monner di 36 
29° W. and t vi 
mizet N, 32°} 
t7. P.M.a 
> fathoms, bo 7147 
2 leagues fro 
Lang'e Pe 
'W. Monnerg 
°'W. and Cag 
1805. 

‘ir. At4 A, 
a l.air,at noo 
racalm. A 
ag. from Po} 
ing N. 72° 
k “bore S. 30 
pat 12 at noo 
or, when Cap 
: S. 13°F. an 

k S. 29° W, ays 
. At8 A.M 

afied the ftra 

rates Jefo fru | 
wind at N.B wag 


Im, fair. Ca 2 
N. 30° E. and | 
k S. 81° W. 349 
air. At noo dis 
à bore N.9°E | 


r, fair. Cape 
S. 84° W. 
r.hazy, fogey UE ¢ 


ying tothe N 
S.S.E. roun 


> wind, foge 

d.n. 58 
y. Saw Siater 752 
h bore S.1°F | 
cl. Ran alor 


wind, foggy4 


ng to the W 


e, fogey. One 
ir Brothers’ 
e S, 2° We 


North 
Latitude, 


mers 


D. M.\D. M.'D. M.\D. MAD. M. D. 
(o] 


| goth. 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


Eaft Lông. | Baft Lone, 
by che” (by thepia,| Variation 


Computed 
wet fs ‘ 

Eatt. Keeper oe e 
No.19, | St, Batt. 


281149 47) — — — | 


20/149 48) —— — — |11 |27 


111150 3150 3, — — |9 i271 
7/149 441149 44] — y tel © 48 


| 
| 
N 
rs) 
oo 


191149. 59! — 


571150 48/151 10] — — | 8 [28 
151152 18] — — — 3/28 
ited 53); — — — {12 |28 
aglt55 381155 32) — | — | 9 +27 
161156 241156 23} — |6 319 |28 
231156 25,156 ce 23} 6 410 [28 
561157 171157 40,157 15| 6 53] 9 4)27 


25/157 56157 361157 14] — | 8 d27 


ste 


47,156 54156 57/156 42) — 


‘53 gosse 1395. 44h, — 
irying to the | Anchared 
nd, very thick jena fiom 
Sept, 8, to) 


ce: [eme canne. | 


10 


31 


Time ofthe Mo.| Yeedje | Ther.| Barom. |Winds; state of the Atmofphere; Remarks, 


a te S. E. 1. br. fogey 


S.S.E.varying to the N. and 
at nocn to an W. very lite 
tle wind, foggy 


paft 3 the fog cleared up; 
faw the Ifland Mareckan, 
bearing fron N. 67° E. 
to S. 6°E. 

S. W. varying to N. round 
yw, and N.N.E. At 
noon almoft a calm, over- 
caft: the N. E. point of 
Mareckan bore N. 73° E. 
the S.W. point bore S.37° 
E. and one of the Four 
Brothers, S. 37° W. 

E. varying to the N. E. I. 
breeze, overcaft. Proceed- 
ing through the ftrait of 
La Bouffole, at 4 A. M. 
the S. point of Mareckan, 
bore N. 30° E. diftant five 
leagues; foggy 


NE S. W. l. br. At half 


1|W. S. "Ww. 1. br. overcatt 


1|Di 
1|S. 


tto, very little wind, foggy 
S. W. ftr. br. foggy 


11|W., ditto 


aes 


2|S. 


| 
| 
an 
|| 


; 


W. Ms W. very little wind, 


we de. br. cloudy 

S. W. fr. br. foggy. At 
3 P. M. faw the land of 
Kamtfchatka 

W. freth breeze, cloudy. 
At noon the volcano bore 
N. 38° W. 

N. W. 1 br. fair. The en- 
trance of the Bay of Awat!. 
cha bore N. 50° W. and 
the volcanoN.5°W. At 
7 P.M. anchored in the 
Bay of Awaticha, in 7 
fathoms, bottom muddy 5 
the harbour of St. Peter 
and St. Paul bore N. 
43° E. and the volcano, 
N. 13° E. 

Acalm; at 1 P. M, the 
air from the SE. 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Varia‘ie: 


Corredtion.| True Bat Jon. Barom. | Ther. 


Longitude | L Remark 


W.S. W. frefh breeze, fair 
Ditto 
W. fr. br. fair 
N.N.E. ftr. br, fair 
N.W.fqually, rain, d. y, 4 
10 654[W.S. W. ditto 
3S. ditto 
S. W. ditto, overcaft 
. W. ditto 
+ S. E. ditto. 4, », 3610 
° E. 1. br. overcatt 
N. E. |. br. fair 
. little wind overcait 
.S.W. fr. br. fair. dr. 33 
itto 
12 42 S. W. ditto 
ee N. W. ftr. breeze, rai 
d.n, 28° 50’ 
E. 1. br. fair 
N.N. W. fr. br. fair 


18127 

157 43/49 44/27 
157 45147 57127 
153 4146 27/27 
21158 5044 42/27 
41159 3643 16128 
OP ee TY Lied 
81161 47/43 17128 
10/162 30/41 23/28 
131162 28/40 26,28 
161162. 55139 41/27 
19/163 16138 46/28 
22/164 18/38 46128 
25/164, 5128 
281165 37128 
311167 7 37128 


341170 28/28 


Pm ORW O 0919 OW: 

Le = = 

HW DO CHUA À Un © 
Rm Po Dj pie ph ? 


Daw pics 


Det = = 
PRR 
he 


vie 


= NP we © 
Di Dé ee ee eee ee 


37l171 28/28 
401173 25127 2 
4175 15/28 W. ditto, overcatt 
4c|177 N. W. ftr, bri ditto 
48 179 S. E. little wind, ft. 
50|179 N. W. fr. br. fair 


wt on Oo 
| 


9000000 0 000000000000 
$i pus pos 


11  5o!S. ditto, overcait 
2110 Cc Ditto 
W.S.W. ftr. br. rain 
W.1,. br. fair 
N.N. W. ft. br. 
N. E. fr. br. fair 
E. ditto, overcaft 
S$. guils of wind, ditto 
S. W. little wind, rain 
g| A calm, fair 
g/L. |. br. overcaft 
— (|E.N.E. fr. br. ditto 
ik. ftr. br. ditto 
|E. N. E. ditto, cl. 
2127 30; Ditto 
— {Ditto 
— JE, ditto 
— /|Ditto 
11 16 Ditto 
— |E.S.E. ditto, rain 
10 236 Ditto : 
— jE.N.E. fr. br. fair. d nr! 
41g = 7 |Ditto, fr, br. rain 
— LE S.E. ditto 
— |Ditto. din. 44° 
8 30!D:tro 
9 13\Ditto, fair 
9 37\Fh. N.E, 1, br. fair 


59/179 11135 
§2/178 20/34 


o 


531176 53132 
541176 
541176 
541176 
541177 
55175 
551175 
551175 
56175 
561176 
© 57176 2h17 5428 
Oo 57176 316 1628 
O 571176 4114 492% 
© 57/176 612 5628 


PrTtddl 


0000000000 
Un Un Un Un Un ed A AD D A wd wd LU) WWWW ND WN 


D D ee Def Dé bé 


Om HN 5 D NW © D mn m0 PHO O " 


n 


ew 


Om Om m Om mem ON + 


— 


o 


© 59175 27| 7 38,27 
ae jd — |4 31/28 
0175 91 3 39/78 
11176 56, 3 9/28 
21176 22) 2 4/28 
21176 29| o 54/28 
South. 
31176 36, 0 34] —|— |10 6 Ditto 


4,176 10! 1 4528 oo dito 44iDitto 


4 ~ 


O00ONOm = O 
see © en 


w 


Vor, IL, 


rmofpheres Remark 


1 breeze, fair 


or. fair 
rain. d, Me 4 
tO 


vercaft 


d, n, 3610 
ercalt 

'. fair 
overcaft 
fair. den, 33 


fr. breeze, rai 
oi 


br. fair 
rcalt 

. ditto 
nd, ft. 
fair 

aft 

br. rain 
br. 

fair 

raft 


nd, ditto 
ind, rain 


aft 

r. ditto 
0 

AE 


) rain 


fair. d n.10) 
rain 


35 
38 


Fat. 


Dé D Dei Dei Di De ee | 


I 
1 
1 
I 
I 
I 
1 
1 
I 
I 
I 
I 
I 
Tt 
I 
I 
I 
I 
1 
2 
2 


2 
2 
2 
2 
2 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


18]174. 31125 
20/172 21/25 
22/170 24/26 


241169 28/28 


7 to #9 9 
7 


11/27 
28 
35123 
25127 
43127 
55/27 
4127 


39/27 
26127 
36/27 
20/28 


41178 
21/23 


27 
0/28 
51/28 
42/23 


0|27 


Variation 
Eine, | winds; State of the Atmofphere; Remarkey 
Ratt, 


LJ D.|D. M 


ol2o #1 9 
of21 


N.E. fr. br. fair 
PEN NW tte wind, 8 
N. e e ittle ’ ‘aire 
à cd i don. 6° 
Ww. N, Ww. ditto 
1121 Élro N. N.E, ditto 
N. fr. br, fair 
N.N. W. ditto 
W. tt 
N. W. fir. br. rain 
W. S: W. ditto, ft, 
$3] W. | br, fair 
431W. N. W. a calm 
55 E. Ss. E. I. br. fait 
45 Ditto , ’ 
4.2| Ditto 
31lE. |. br. fair 
E. little winds dim. 18$° 
E. 1. br. tair 
E.N.E. lit‘ le wind, fair 
SIN. E. very little wind, tair 
27/E. S. E. a calm, ditto 
E. N.E. 1. br, fair 


Es N. E. 1. br. fair 
E. S. E. ditto 


{Vitto 

10 §31N. E. little wind, fair 

N.N. E. frefh br. {air 

N. N. W. guits of wind, rain 
38 W. N. W. fr. br. 

N. N. W. |. br. fair 

Ditto 

N. cloudy 

Do. rain. d. 2. 29° 22! 30” 

N.N. E.1. tr. fair 


oj21 
t1j21 À 
11/21 
11/20 
11/19 
4119 
olr9 
t1|19 
10/18 
11119 à 
11/19 


Air 


trlt9 Fe very little wind. 
50 W. S. W. |. br. 
S.S. W. very little wind, 
j fair, din. 34° 


21/19 
r1l19 


ol18 tro 
or9 
019 


‘[10 


N. E. ditto 
Ditto 


E.N.E. fr. br. d.n, 37° 
Ditto, fr. br. 
Ditto, d.m. 39° 
N. E. tr. br. 
N. N.E. fr. br. overcalt. 
din, 46° 45’ 


11h17 À 
o!13 
ol18 
o}18 


22/16 


e 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


: 4 [vegatien : 
son oft 
LR: Barom, | Ther. Needle Windes State of the Atmofphere; nemart 


*Tcorre@ion. fs a 


| | ns |S 


[Se 
M.D. .M.ID. MJP. L,| D. D. M. 


J.12169 47| 2 251167 20188 57/27 8116 4 — |W.1.br. fair. dm. 51024 
29/1268 ,3al @ 27/166 529 1127 190/16 | — |S.E. fr, br. fair. jet, 
"4h67 1112 281164 43/29 7127 r1h6 —: (ES. E.ditto 
15h65 6|2 30/162 37129 26/28 1116 3] — JE. N.E; ditto. d.n, 499 331 
161163 11 2 31l160 40/30 26/28 1117 2,9 sDitto 
27161 92 32/t58 38/37 28/28 218 | 9 20olN: E. fr. br. fair. dm, sy 
18159 22] 2 331256 49/32 17/28 118 |to 23N.N.E. fr. br. fair 
391157 55 2 33/255 23/32 48/28 2/18 |10 7\N.E. ditto. din. 5510 
20/1655 §3) 2 341153 ibs 1728 318 | 9 32{Ditto 
ailrs4 38| 2 341152 4/34 2/28 3/18 | 9 42/E. N. £1. br. fair 
221153 66] 2 35]151 25/34 (28 3118 |ir 23/A calm, fair. d.#. 560 32 
23/152 40! 2 351150 5133 43/28 3118 rt 228. E. fr. br. fair 
24152 44 2 


351150 8134 ol28 4/17 _ Fee W. fr. br. 


N. B. By a mean taken between many feries of diftances of the moon from the fun 
the error of the time-keeper, | No..19, was afcertained by the obferved longitudes; 
afterwards interpolated the. variations which the diurnal ¢orrections fhould undergo, : 
order to deduce from theiice the true longitudes.. | r 


où, |6. 
Nov. Le 


Here follow the refults produced by the lunar obfervations, or } D ore 
feries, reduced to a fixed epoeh, Brees ie 
Jan. de 

16. 2 31 


According to this feries we rettuced the trne daily longitudes, which: ferved. us for th 
true longitude of our arrival at New Holland. 


pb mm = © © © 
un 
Sn 


State of the Atmofphere; nemart 


és 


br. fair. d.n, 51° 24 
ft, br. fair. He 
E.ditto 

-E. ditto. d.n, 49° 33 


} 
«fr. br. fair. dim. 540 
LE. fr. br. fair 

+ ditto. dim. 5510 


. E. 1. br. fair 

In, fair. d.n, 56° 32 
fr. br. fair 

I. W. fr. br. 


- the moon from the fin 
obferved Jongitudes ; 
Lions fhould undergo, i 


. Dems 
Où, 16. Qo 4 
Nove 2 0 55 
18. 4 1 
FY Dec, 4. 1 165 
18 1 372 
Jan. 4 2 83 
16. 2 31 
8, Which-ferved.us fort 


TABLES, 


SHEWING 


THE COURSE OF L’ASTROLABE, 


DURING THE YEARS 


1785, 1786, AND 1787, 


From the Time of the Ship's failing from Europe, 
till its Arrival in Kamtfchatka, 


1 — 


4% 2 
1830 alte 


128 30/28 20 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


37 - 


Weft Long. | \VeR Long.) yartation | Ther: | Harom. of Nairn, 

: obferved at noon 

worth |Congtude| ‘Time [or the we. e [ob | till Aug. ag, exe. {Winds 5 Stateof the Atmofpher 5 
tate. [mg] Hime, rb; [Aug yee Mind Suef 

Lis at noon|the mor, & 9 in afe, 


f, Keeper, 


D. M. D. M. D. M. D. M. D. M. D. Li P. P. L.. 
des 1814 10] — — — {16 9/28 3) — pat roman i fair 
e LL] d N. . re 
138 5515 41/85 12] — — {17 | Do.| — j frs Se, bay 7 
936 4416 34/15 31] — 19 |28 2] — IN.E. moderate br. fair 
034 46117 4116 1ol15 1 19 |28 3) — [Ditto 


Ditto 


n33 6117 4516 3915 17] — |19 |28 2) — 


N.N.E. and N. little 
132 819 2018 13) — 19 |28 3) — 1 wink bey 
32 42] == |19 11] = [18 1810 | Do. | — IN. E. mod. wind, fair 
:N.E.varyingtoS.E. 
u] — _ _ _ — 21 |28 4) — À round by Brain 
fair 
At 9. N. E. varying to FE. 
N.E, and to S. W. 


19 32) — — |21 28 328 3 round by S. mode- 


rate br, hazy 
. IN, E. moderate br, fair 


7118 44l — |17 40/20 
9 —— 


1 —— 


n3t 25/19 
830 z7|r8 


i N. E. moderate 


128 3018 29) — _ br, fale 
ul — éd — ps — |19 {28 4] Do. IN. E. moderate br. rain 
1 — — ape eas — |21 Do. | Do. IN. E. little wind, rain 
; N. varying to N. E. 
MS aoe tua fe ame — |22 | Do. | Do } litt'e wind, mifty 
N.E. varying to E. 
— on _ ~~ — |22 |28 4! Do N. E. moderate br. 
fair 


— |16 4522 | Do. | Do. IN. E. mod. br. fair 

— — 21 28 3 Do. N, E. 1. br. fair 

— |16 5822 | Do. | Do. IN. E. very little w. fair 

f=. varying to E. N. 
E. freth breeze, fair. 
d. n. 53° 

ee SA ii 
N. E. mod. br. fair 


18 1914 32/22 |28 4:28 4 


— |14 56/22 | Do. | Do. 


— |16 7/22 | Do. 28 3IN. E. little wind, fair 
— {17 5h13 |28 328 2IN.N.E. little wind, fair 
— 19 12/22 | Do. | Do. IN. E. moderate br. fair 
EX E. varying to E. 


— 18 35/23 [28 2) Do. |) yay ie 


N. E. and E.N. E. 
| hs pe 420 } fr. br. fair 
— | S7le2 |28 2! Do. IN. E. fr. br. foggy 


13 38 
W. round by N, lit- 


tle wind, hazy 
{*s E. varying to N. 


E, varying to N. 


N. E. moderate br. 

hazy 

N. E. moderate br. 
j toggy and ftormy 
N.E |. br. fair 
Êe E. varying to the 


617 47/22 26122 24) — |r2 20/23 | Do. [28 : 
116 19/22 20/22 19] — |12 31/23 | Do. | Do. 


ths 22 33 = axa — 25 Do. Do. F. S. E.- À by 


E. ftormy 


LA PEROUSE'S VOYAGE 


arometer Lf 
+) ett Long. vente on | Cher Na on. OR trved 
Computed Oeil "op tine | DUT | Le In che mort [Winds ÿ Sète of the atmo 
th, nate t of the Mo, ~~ me ‘wa | logs “RS | ‘ in tLe Rernarkse 
from gr we y à 4 urternoam, 


D. |P, LIP. LÛ 


§.8.E. varyingto) 
Dur 2 N.W. is , 
almoft a ealm, À, 
Le ty N varying to 
11/22 EF. round by E, 
br. lair, dim. ya 
i E. varying to §, 
little wind, tt, 
E.S.E.varying to 
N. W. round by 
lithe wind, ft 


5, varying to N, 
g10 gyi22 | 8 2 E. round by W, 
br, hazy 
N.N. E. varying 
10 40,25 i. N. 'W. round { 
od. br, far 
| N. NW. and Nel 


tle wind, he any 


i N. W. varying 
es 
| 
it 


LE | 2 


| 
| 


W. $. W. and $, 
W. mod, br. rain 
S. W. varying to 
S. W. 1. br. tair 
iPS $. W. varving 


2) 


round by W, ‘| 
tle avind, # fair 
N. varying to W. 
br, hazy 


N. W. varying to 
| S. W. round by V 
§ 

i 


2 


1, br, hazy 
W.S. W.and SV 
mod, br. hazy 
varying to W. 
W. round by W 
r. hazy 
W. Ss. W. varyi 
2 to S.W. little wu 
fair 


SW. varying toS 

2 | E. round by S. 
S 
S 


2: 


w. hazy. dm 
§. and $. SE. fl 
derate br. rain 
5.W. and S.S.E.« 
§. S.£.and 8. E. 


LE 
s| À 
ih | 217 br. rain 
118 38 2/S, E. mod, br. hazy 
8. 


3518 


118, E. 1. Lg 
at als. E. 


4 
. | Winds 5 State of the Atanoty 
a Remmarae. 


§. CR E. var i to} 
N.W. er: 
almoft a ealm, 4. 

N. varying to E, 
E. round by E, 


br. iair, d, #, gail 


E. varying to §, 
little wind, ft, 

E.S.E, Varying to 
N. W, round by 
lithe wind, ft, 

5, varying to N, 
E. round by W, 
or. hazy 


1 
N. 1 br, fair 
à N.N.W.and N,l 
| tle wind, hazy 
S. W. round by 
| 1, bat, hazy 
£ W.S. W. and S, 
| W. mod, br, rain 
2! 5S. W. varying to 
»W. |, br. tair 


WW. $. W. varying 
N. round by W, ‘| 
tie avind, fair 


br. hazy 

N. W. varying to 
S.W. round by V 
1, br. hazy 
W.S. W.and SV 
mod. br. hazy 
N. varying to W, 
W.. round by W, 
br. hazy 

W. S.-W. varyi 
to $.W, little wi 
fair 

§.W. varying toS 
E. round by S$. uy 
w. hazy. dm 


| 
| 
fe N. W. varying 
i § 
| 
| 
1 
| 
il 


§. and $. SE. ï 
* ; derate br. rain 
21S.5.W. and S.S.E.« 
S. S SE. and $.E. 
‘3 ; br. rain 
21S. E. mod. br. hazy 
§. E. 1. breeze, fa 
: j d,n. 81° 
S. E. ditto, dr 7 


ROUND THR WORLD, 


—— 

. IP, LAP. L, 
S. E, varying to K, 

28 328 24 S. E, |. br. fair. 


N. varying to W.R 


39 


, | ase Mere Winds; State of the Atmofphere 5 
tog, and  inwhe Remarhs. 


d.n, 6° 12! 30! 
d'a. E. and F.5.E.do. 


S. E. 1, br, gutts of 
wind, rain. d », 2° 
E. and E. S. FE, 1. br. 
j fair, dion. 34° 
2jf.1. br. hazy. dm, 629 
E. S. B. and E. mo- 
d rate br, fiir 
E. and i, SE >. |. bre 
rain. & 1. 12? 
FE, and B.S. PF, od. 
br. guits of w. rain 
E.S.L and S.E,.mov, 
i do, d, m ie 
E.S.E, ani E.)- hi 
guts of wind, rain 
and E, 8. 2,500, 
br. fair 
E. and E, NL dy 
br. fair, 4, 1, 23° 


a 

14 

; 

jr E.andE, N.E, mod. 
f 

(a 


EX E. varying to E. 


2 


2 


3 


415 © 
si 
di 


3 br. fair 


N.F. varying to N, 
mod, br, fair 

N. varying to N. W. 
moderaie br. hazy. 
d, n, 264° 

N. and N. N. W. 1. 
br. fair 
ee varying to N. W 


2 
1 
2 


and to the S. round 
. 1. br. bay. 
rl Ne aie 
5S. varying to FS Fe 
@ mod. br, rain 
S.E. ginal 
S.S. E. S, mod. 
by. fale 
S. varying to 3. S.E. 
1. br, fair 


d 
+ .Æ, varying to E. S. 
} 
eg 


2) 


2| 


| 
| 
| 
3 


E. mitt, br. fair 
E. and E.N.E. mod. 


92 br. hazy 


| 
1} 
. W. 'N. W. round 
by È M br. ft. 
WN sand Ni 
o! $ br. Ne 


Weft Long.| weft mes € Variation mite 
; ie. Longitude 
Wett 


LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE 


e P. L.IP. L 
28 2128 


28 


28 
28 


28 


28 


28 
28 
28 


28 2/28 


Barometer of 


AS obferved uth 


Sou 
Winds 5 State of the at jee, | Latitude. 
Remarks te 


ing, and jin iss 


S. varying to L. 
E. little wind, fai 
N. varying to E, ç 
N. ji Ag fog 


28 2/28 


N. N. ee varying 
S. $. E. round by § , 


S. E. “varying to \ 


~ 


SE. and S. |. br. rai 
an 5 i VAE 


A sn <. E. in 


S. E. vary ng Wk 


a ma. br. rain 


2 mel br. rain 


LE. and E. NE 
es E. varying 1 


ary lit wind, rain 


mode ate br. ft. d. # 


N. varying to N.N 
W. little wind, À 


N. 'N. F. varying ta 
S.W. round by E.: 
- calm, fair. dr. 408 
S. me to S. SW 


Lal 


varying to S. W. 
S. varying to N. E. 
N.E. and E. N. E 


Ip, M|D. M 


37146 


37,+5 


3944 


0144 
23144 


4343 
27143 
qil4t 
39/40 


56139 


44 18142 


1744 44142 


18144 55/43 


Von, II, 


w 


to 


- ROUND THE WORLD. 


Barometer of 
Nairne, obferved 


Wei Long. | Weft Long. 


Variation 


Computed| by the jby thepift. 
rats Longitude} Time lot the Mo. gene 
| batituve: | Wet, | Keeper, | fromthe | En ing, and 3 inthe 
Nov 13. sun. : afternoon, 
sce facet 
M.\D. MD. M|D. M. D.|P. LyP. L 


ingtos. 
ind haz 
ing to Ë. 
le wind, fai 
ing to E, < 
le wind, tog 
n. 363° ' 


11146 5146 6 — 


39145 3545 43] — 28 2/28 


nd E.S,E, 7 11/28 
n 
ing to N. 28 2128 3! 
air 
- varying 28 3/28 3 

- round | 
ir und by § 28 3/28 
rarying to SE 
vind, a 28 «1/28 1 
IS. 1. br. raid 
if ying | | 7 927 11 
Dr. ft. 
S. E. mode 28 1/28 #1 
hazy | 
‘ying toE, 28 o]27 11 
e pas har 
r. haz 2 
ing tONN i ds 
1. br. rain \ 
ing to EN 74 us 17133 43/54 36) — |12 |28 o:8 o 
1, “ rain à 845 936 16133 24135 12] 7 4il1r |27 1027 9 
F «SE. 9 44 17136 20/33 11/34 1817 4011 |27 11/27 11 
ing to E, 1044 60/37 11) — | — | — |13 [27 3727 6 
lo. 
‘i ENS jus s0l37 39134 38) — | — ir [27 77: 
>. varying tq 
round by E 
. wind. rain FRE 
E. |. br. fait 
ing to N. Eg 9,27 9} 3 
te br. ft. din 
3 30" 8 
ing to N.N HF 


tle wind, ft 
o 


+ varying to 
ound by E.; 
ur. d mack 
gtoS.S W, 
r. fair 
ig to S. W, 
air 
ig to N.E. 
. hazy 

id E.N.E, 
'» hazy 


16144 


17144 


18/44 55/43 
Vor. II, f 


‘| atgin the morn. | Winds; State of ihe Atmofphere § 
em: 


2128 is 


DT 


{ wind, hazy 


N.E ge pa to S. 
S. Vus by N. 
1. br. togg 
0 SE. tf ing to 
NN. E. yng by 

E. 1. by. foggy 
que E. ad E.N. E. 

little wind, hazy 


“i ond E. 1. br. re 
olE. var. toS. fr. br. rain 


S. S. W. varying to | 
W. mod. br. hazy 


§ W. varying toW.N. 


W..1. br. fair 
W.N.W. 1. br. hazy. 
ad. 2. 504° 

N.W. ise W.N.W. 
l, br. foggy 

N.W. var. oro W. S. 
W. guits of wind, r. 
S. W. and S. S. W. 


| mod. br, hazy 


Ww. S. Ww. and W. 
mod. br. hazy 

N. W. var. to S.W. 
pa by W. mod. 
br. rather fogey 

Se W. and à. Se 
W. mod. br. hazy 


“W.and W.mod.brir. 
W.and W. N.W, do. 


W. NW. and N. 
W. Libr. foggy 
N. N. W. varying 


to S. round by W 
guits of wind and r. 
S. S. W. varying to 
N. round by W. fr. 
br. rain 


N. W.and N. fr. bre 


S. W. 1. br. gufts of 


8: y 
is wind, rain 


W. S. W. and W. 
N. W. little wind, 
fair weather 

N. W. xarying to S. 
Ww. ou by W. 
l. br. toggy 

W. varying toN. E. 
round by §. little 


N, varying to S, W. 
round by W. mods 
br. rain 


Barometer 


T , 
inter, 


Wéft Long.| Weft Long. 
Corhputed v the bythe Ditt.| V 
Time ofthe Mo. 
Keeper, | from the a. ed at 
No, 18, sun. ‘ 


South |, 
Latitude. Pause 


D. M.ID. M.\D. MJD. M.\D. M: D. |P. LP. 


3545 40/42 


43/46 


53/47 27 9/27 


50/48 10/27 


25438 27 11/27 


26148 27 827 
27149 28 0/28 
32/49 27 10/27 


20159 


115% 


18 20/14 ‘|27 


Nairne, obferved 
rerv.| atg inthe morn. | Winds ; State of the Atm 

LA pd ing, and 3 in the Remarks, phere 
afternoon, 


10127 10 


LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE 


of 


L. 


8: E. round b 

br. hazy hal 
S. E. varying to W. 

N.W. round byW 
ae wind, do, 

-W, varying to W 

N.W, TOUR byW 

I. br. foggy 


| N.W. varying to W 


9 


10 S.W. round by W 
1. br. rather fé 
S.W. and W.s.W 
gufts of wind, fair 
§ W. S. W. and S.W 
gults of wind, rain 
S. W. and S,S. W 
j ftr. br. hazy 
gS. W. and N. w 
round by W.1.br, h 
j E.N.E. var. toS. E, 
round by S. 1. br.r, 


9 


1 


10 


S. S. W. and N.W, 
round by W. little 
wind, fair 

N.N. W. varying to 
S. S. W. round by 
W. gutts of w, rain 

S. varying to N. W, 

} round by W. mod, 
br. hazy 

N. W. varying to S, 

S. W. round by W, 

mod. br. guits of 

wind, rain 


gufts of wind, rain 
S. S.W. varying toS, 
E. and to N. round 
, by W. little w. fair 
N. varying to W. S. 
} W. round by W, 
mod, br. hazy 
W. varying to $. E, 
j round by N. 1. br. 
N.N. E. varying to 
} S. E. round by W, 
_ little W. ft. 
E. N. E.. varying to 
W. S. W. round by 
W. irregular guts 
of wind, rain 
CS. W. varying to N. 
4 N.W. round by W. 
tr. br, hazy 


south 
et | 
MG Latitude. 


S. Ww. varying to E s 


5 


's. S.W. and S. fr, br. ba 


Computed 
Longitude 
Wet, 


D. M.\D. M 


45 32 62 51 


946 47164 

dy 47164 2 
n48 14164 40 
1247 5865 24 
1346 5066 3 
1447 52167 5% 
1548 57168 58 
1649 45169 

17150 4/69 5 
18149 58179 4. 
19/50 1072 3: 
20/50 58/72 5 
2151 34/73 1 
22152 22/72 § 
23153 41168 3 
24154 . 33/67 1 
25156 17168 

26\s7 8168 : 
27157 57169 : 
28157 $2170 4 


18173 


29158 


if 
sie Atmotpher 


arying to FAR 
ound by $.] 
y 
tying to W 
round byw 
ind, do, 
arying to W. 
Nite byW 
bggy 

Ar'ying to W 
round by W 
ather fogey 
ae S.W 


wind, fair 
-and S.W 
wind, rain 
nd S.S, W 
hazy 

and N. W 
y W.IL.br.h 
var. toS.E, 
y S.lbr.r. 
and N.W 
y W. little 
air 
r. varying te 
. round by 
ts of w, rain 
gtoN.W, 
y W. mod, 
À 


arying to S, 
und by W, 
r. gults of 
in 


ind S. fr, br, & 
wind, rain 
arying toS, 
oN. round 
ittle w. fair 
g to W. S. 
nd by W. 

_ hazy 
ng to §. E. 
N. 1. br. 
varying to 
und by W, 
varying to 
7, rouhd by 
gular guits 
rain 
ying to N, 
and by W. { 
zy | 


28157 


th Computed 
Longitude 
‘| Weft. 


55167 


39163 


58 70 


55179 


32169 
10167 


8167 


35167 
32167 


43/79 


13179 


ve 

ifs 
Keeper, 
No. 18. 


of the Mo. 


from the 
Sun, 


32162 51159 26/60 


56 


29/68 34123 
69 17/22 

49169 32/22 

43168 40 

5866 59 

47) — 

stl = 

45) — 

19) — 


13/19 


29 


21 


21 


22 


23 


Variation 
of the 
Needle 

Eañt, 


dl 


18112 


55|12 


47113 


11 


if 


Ther. 
inter. 
obferv- 
ed at 
noon. | 


Mo. Mp. mb. Mb. m D. le. LAP. L. 


ROUND THE WORLD, 


Wet Lon 
ey by thebit. 


Rarometer of 
Naïrne, obferved 
at y in the morn. 
Ing, aud 3 in the 


atterncon, 


8/27 


5127 
5127 
7,27 
AN 


2128 


9/27 10 


8127 


11/28 


2128 


Winds; State of the Atmofphere; 
Remarks. id 


S. W. varying to 
mod. br. guits of 


9 
ind, hazy 


Ww. 
pes s. 
Ww 
W.S. W. and W.N. 
4 W'.r.od. br. cl. 
CERN WwW. en S.W. 
W. LR 4 S. W. lit. 
j tle wind, fair 
W. S.W. and §. lit- 
j tle wind, fair 
S.W. mod. br. gufts 
j of wind, cl. 
W.S.W. and N.W. 
mod. br. rain 
W. varying to N. me 
E. round by N. and 
to W. S. W. round 
by LA I. br. fair 


| 
| 
| 


co 


9 


2 


8 


soured by W, little 
wind, fair 
W.N.W. varying to 
S. S. E. round by S. 
1. br. cl, ï 
S. S. E. varying to 
WwW. eereae L 
br, fair 


x varying to N. E. 


Le) 


3 


round by E. little 
wind, cl. 

a E. and E. N.E.Ïl, 
br. fair, d. #. 644° 


N.N.W.andS.S. E. 
2144 | round by E.lit.w.do. 
S. E. varying to W. 
2128 i N. W. round by E. 
and N. cl. 
g N. W. varying to S. 
372$ 7 5 W. mod. by. hazy 
N,W. and N. N.W. 
1127 IC) > mod.br. cl. d 2.684° 
t N. N. W. and SW. 
817 8 { round by W. 1. br. 
cl. rain 
S. W. and W. mod. 
127 512 br. hazy 
W. S. W. and W. 
427 317 guts of wind, rain 
627 9/2 var. to S. E. round 


by S. 1. br. cl. 
S.S.E.and W.S.W. 
round by S, mod, 
br, rain 


À 
À and W. N. W. 


EE SERRE BEEN ce 


A4 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE 
& bi 


Computed 

South 

2 Latitude "het ha 
nee 


Barometer of 
Nairne, obfeived 
atg in the morn. | Winds; .. pel pls Atmofphere 


Weft Long.| Welt Lon 
by the by theDi 
Time | of the Mo. 


rlation aver 


ir South [Computed 
Feb. | Latitude, | bons we 


Keeper, | from ts ings aud 9 inthe 
No, 18, un afternoon, 
orn ee 
LAP. L, m |p. mid. mM. 
: W, and W, 5. w 8 
ay GPs 7 gults of wind, hary Hop. Ap Morn? 
7 827 6 W.S W.and W, N 


W. little wind,rai ul39 581 49 
W.and W,S,W.] 


} br. rather fog 
iii and W. Nw. 2137 51/80 41 
af | 


little wind, cl. vain, 13136 


dm. 69° 37! 40! 42179 46 


1 

27 11/26 7| 

At noon.[At 7 P.M 1] w. . W, and N, 

3158 52178 53176 33] — — |9 N. W. moderate br! 
26 10/26 ‘Ih 


rain 
At halt {At Midn 
pati a. 


N. varying to W, $. 
W. fi. br. guits of 
wind, rain 

W.S.W. and N.W, 
round by W. guis 


4153 48/79 20/76 27) — 27 x1| 9 |27 1/27 


5159 38/80 28177 20) — — | 8 |27 3/27 


Ws wind pe = 
660 37/82 W790 a] — — 8 |27 0/27 1 MS Mi; SW, us ae 
, S W. and S.S. W, A 
ae of win a rain 4 ae 
W..4 calm. ‘Alter. 
sy Lo E, and 
E.S.E. $ 
re i Baines § 
S.W. guts of wind, 


7159 20/83 43/80 53) — — | 8 |27 327 1 


8158 4085 2/8: 32) — — | 7 |27 1127 3 


0157 15/88 12/84 32) — — | 7 (27 427 4 
él, d,n, 70°11 1 - 7 

S.S. E. varying to 8. | — = 
W. round by Suivre. 

cular gufts ct wind, 9 

overc:: iy rain yoy oo as 
S.S. W. and W.§ 
W. mod. br. cl. 

. W. varying to N, 
W. round by W.1. 
br. fogyy 
S. W. and W.S.W, 
ie guits of w. | 
rather tose: y 


W.S.W. and W.N. 15 


} mod br ns 3 


89 4486 20| — — 


C9 

w 
~ 
Le 

w 
N 


9 


12153 889 46186 221] — — 6 


Le) 
tw 

N 
ON 
N 

N 


1 
à 


À 


W. 1 br. rain ? 

W.N.W. and W.S It 
W. guits of wind, | 
rain 

'W. and § fr br, ra, re | 

eat S. W. nd WN. 1656 3875 § 


» 
Ex 
ce 
N 
uw 
We) 
c9 
+ 
us 
~~ 
~~ 
Le) 
te 
N 
~ 
lol 
w 
co 


W. round by W. | 


WEEE Hep ne mr js koe bi *\) moderate br. rather 1955 29,77 
‘ W. Ed S. W. 1. br. L 
3182 41| — — |13 |28 1/28 o j forgy. dn. 62° : 
3 


S. S. W. and W.N. 
W. le br. milk 


2 


ROUND THE WORLD. A5 


Computed We pee pair À i A moe PE 

| N k Le iit. nter, 18 3 

the Atmofphere wi | South Longitude| ‘Time lof the Mo.| ees, H tg in the morn- Winds; State of 4 Atmofphere 5 
larks, nets] Latitudes | 7 We Keeper, | from the iy rd ing, and 4 in the Remarks, 


No, 18. Sun. A aiternoon, 


etre =e 


P. LJP. L. 


W. 3. wil ‘ Le | §S.S.W. and W.N, 
vind LT 39/80 3178 29h15 j28 128 3 5 W. moderate br. cl. 


«and W.N S. W. varying to S. 
le wind ra 49178 17/77 39145 PP nr B. round by 8. |. 
W,S.W.] r. hazy 
er fo, S. §. E. varying toS. 
W. whee? 177. 38/76 28a L'or. ait 
nd, cl, rain S. and S, S. W. mo- 
° 3 ae 46176 31175 A } derate br. fair 
cS. S. W. varying to 

WW. and N 8 2 } S.5. E. round by S. 
moderate br 1. br. cl. 

| — 194$: varyingtos. W. 

ÿ little wind, fair 
ne to W, S 1 — S.W. and S. I. br. fair 
br. guits ss j sa S.S.W.a calm, 
in oggy 
.and N.W, 128 :|S.andS.W.acalm, fair 
yW. cui le S. and §. S. W. mo- 
: ea ds : ÿ derate br. fair 
W.S.W, — 28 328 3 Ro a calm, fair 
rain | 3| — |Ditto 

dS. S. W, S. S. W. and S. W. 
wind, rain — (23 2 pire ay fair. d. 
alm. After. n. 5 
oN. 2. andy S.S.W. and W. mo- 
cl. ; k } derate br. fair 
rarying to §, -— |S.W. little wind, foRey 
its of wind, $ S. S. Ww. and S.W. e 
esate 7 2. br. fair 
arying to $ 8 - Ditto 
dl by Suivre. $ S.W. and W.S.W. 
fs ot wind, ; 7 br. foggy 
rain - 
and W.S. | S. S. W. and W. S. 
|. br, cl, "9 W. fair ; 
rying toN. @ S. one a S.W. little 
ad by W.1, : wind, cl. 
y : Ditto ‘ 
1 W,S.W, “age À N. and N. N.E. lit- 


tle wind, foggy 


N. and N. N. E. lit- 


‘gults of w. | 


woy 
REY 


and W.N. | tle wind, hazy 
, rain SN. and N. W. mo- 
and W.S. - ES és } derate br, rain 
s of wind, J = # 1 and §. S. E. little 

| = = wind, forgy 
T fr bre ra, | al gS. W. and S. S. E. 
and W.N. | @_acalm, cl 
nd by W. W.S W. varying to 
» br, rather | 3 S. S. E. |. br. cl. 

| | S. W. and S. §. W. 

. W. I. br 412 fr. br. hazy 
Ln, 624° fs. varying to §.S.E. 
and W.N 5? fir. br. cl. 


r, milk 4\S. and S..E, fr. br. cl. 


46 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Weft Long. weft Long, Ther. | Barometer of | mil. Compute 
Mah south [Computed] by the [by thenit. Wastation inter, | Nairne, obferved Windes st te titude, | Hongitud 
‘apt Latitude, Longitude! ‘Time ofthe Mol Needle pater. at g in the morn- 3 State af the Atmofphe MERE) | L ‘| Wet. 
9786. Weft. | Keeper, | fromthe | pat, dat | ing, and 3 in the nar ke, hag 
No. 18, | Sun. Seon, afternoon, 


D. MD. MD. M. D, M. M.D. M. DE P. LAP. L. We gab Naa 
S\ var 10 Z11|112 
86 3 S+ varyiug to E, ç mn! 
Ma3o 31 85 45! 85 32/10 49117 3 j mod, br, hazy 
24/29 48] 87 56! 87 28| 87 819 3318 2|Ditto, rather foggy | 8 23l112 
; E. S, E. and 
#59" t2] 89 89 1188 54) 9 2218 3 j moderate br, i : 411113 
26/28 35) 91 90 37| 90 24] 7 5518 2 4|Ditto 
27127 53| 94 92 52} — |7 56:18 51S. sn 1. br. fai 29/113 
a and E.S. E.fr.b 
2827 33) 96 95 13 52/19 4 j guits of wind, tain 20|114 
29/27 171 98 47197 5| — 54119 4|Ditto, cl. #3 2oltrs 
30/27 9]100 37| 99 _— 14/19 Ditto: d. nm. 52° 56/15 pla 611$ 
31/26 59l102 44l1or 11/19 4 it a mt E. asi x 11116 
A. 1327 6104 49/103 57/20 4lE. S, E. mod. ba. North. 
i S. E. and EN 19] 0 2/116 
414 E. irregular guts o 
wind, Re . mS 7/7 
4| SE: varying toN, Eagmht| 2 55118 
d mod. br. cl. 4 lis 
N.E. and N.N. 
IINTIT 14/109 2 24 a by N. 1. brer 5 ‘10/1839 
.and N.W 
ittle wind, cl. 4 5 46|119 


lit 
' N. 
311 54109 . 1 j sep a WEN 
W. 6 


227 7/107 15105 28/20 


71109 23/107 


4l117 451109 - 2 arts 


i 
N. W. varying tq F9 
E.S.E. round by § 


571112 36) = ? little wind, rain, d 7 4[120 
n. 529 7/ 30! l 


°S. E. varying to N 718 a7lrzr 
8113 40:17 1 E. round by E. | 

br. cl, rain 89 25/12: 
N. E. varying to § | 
10!114 25/112,66| = 128 Ms round by E, lit go 4.4li22 
1 eine, i 5. E INT 61124 
— |} moderate br. fair 110 +. ae 

S.S. E. and §, E. s a de id 
“ie 3 j little wind, fair i cages aa 
5 


| 
eM 54 4iS. and §. E. 1. br, cl. ulr8 ° 9/128 


ses and §. 8. E. |. 
. Isltg r4alt3o 
48111 | Er - fair. dem 54° 16119 4.9131 
37l111 


1720 11133 
@ br, fair neo. els 


3 
31112 | 3\S. E. and E, cl. eels Mae 
1 E, 


and E.N.E. guts x ie ie as 
M2120 | 5/142 


Sr “and &. 8. E.L 


401113 of wind, cl. 


N.E. and E. N.E. 
mod. br, hazy M0 41144 
RARE? and'AN E, uho 451146 
NE. and E. moi MR" 87/448 
rate br. hazy ho solrso 
E.N.E.andE.S.E, 
moderate br, cl, 


gltr2 
22/113 
271113 19) — 


34113 31/113 9 728  ol152 


of the At 
einarks, her 


ing to E.$.8 
its wa 

her fog 

FE, Hi À 9 
rate br. cl, 


E. 1. br. fai 
E.S.E. fr, bi 


of wind, rain 


n, 52° 66/1 
ind S. SE. ‘ 
ir. din 53° 
mod. br, cl. 
E. and E.N 


egular gufts où 


hazy 
ying toN.E 
br. cl. 
and N.N. 
yy N.1. brer 
and N.W 
wind, cl, 
W, and W.N 
te br. cl, 
W. varying td 
E. Pn bys 
ind, rain. d 
7! 30! 
arying to N 
und by E, | 
. rain 


ate br. fair 


wind, fair 
B. 1. br, el. 


nd E. mode. 
. hazy 
.andE. SE, 
ate br. cl, 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


Barometer of x 
. arate te nm Winds state df the Atmofphere 5 
1 $e 


21,122 12,122 


. and S,E, 


nd §. 8. E. 1, 
r dy mh 54° 


nd S. SE, 


ea à 7 
P. I. IP. L. 
8 vr N. Evand €. Ss. BR 
38 3 mod. br. cl. 
E, and E, S.Æ. mo. 
2/28 if derate br. fair ' 
E.S. E, and S. E. 
238 : j br. fair 
| S. E. Be al SE. 1. 
2123 2} br. fair 
| CE. SE. andS. E.do. 
3,28 FE den. 35° 52! as" 
3128 1/Ditro. 4.7, 334° 
2128 215. E. and ES, I. br, cl. 
2128 2|Ditto 


E.S.E.and §.S.E.do. 

: j d.n, 29° 18" gis! 
I Ditto, fair 

F S. E. and S. S.E. 1. 
4 br. cL 
1 Ditto, haz 

ies S. E. and S.E. lit. 

tle wind, cl. 

; S. S. E. and E. 6. E. 
little wind, fair 
k E. varying to N, 
round by E. a calm, 

U hazy 


1 


E. sii E.N.E. guits 
j of wind, cl, 
N.E. varying to S.E. 
} ce EL br. cl, 
SE. and N. E, little 
157 wind, cl. 
| N. E. and NN. E. 
"a I. bi, cl. 
21 Ditto 
2 Bitto 
2' Ditto, hazy 
2|Ditto, mod. br, 
| EN. E. and E.N.E 
# à br, cl, 
Di 
lDitt 
3 NE. andE, 1 br. hazy 
JE: and E.'N. E. ditto 
3\Ditto, cl. 
2lE.and£. N.E. I. be. cl, 
aWDitto : 
38.1. br. fair 


Ditto, rather clondy. 
1} d.m. 10° 11 ti5" 
4 Ditto. dim. 54° 
3|Ditto, hazy 

‘E. and E. N.-E. mo- 
3 } derate ‘br. cl, 
3{Ditto, rain 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


7 Welt tone.| el Lone. Barometer of . 
ar orth  |Computed| by thee by thebitt. Variation | jy in aid Nairne, obferved Winds : State nf 
June, | Latitude, [Longitude Time  |ofthe wo) Needle | oF ob. | at g in the morn- 5 ope the Atmofither 
June *| welt, | Keeper, | fromthe | “gag, | ferved ing, and 4 in the SA 
786. Ron | daca * lat noon| : atter. con. 


D. M.\D. M\D. M.D. MID. M! D. 
M28/20 49/153 181157 44 9 2521 and E. SE. |, br. cl 
E.N.E. and E, SE 


29/20 331154 271158 43 


E. S. E. and E, N, E 
little wind, fair 
E.N. “a and hy E 


3} 


551159 


29,160 17/161 6 
2160 301161 28; 5 


48)160 11160 ie 
is 
| 
Ife 


11,160 29/161 


47160 51160 


. varying to 5 


171159 431160 W.. | br. cl. rain 


1 13160 6 


58158 521159 13 

N. varying to S.S.F 
47158 und b 
wind, foggy 
S. varying to S. y 
8 and to E. N. 
15 j) round by E. |, i 

foggy 

.N. E. andS. F 

varying to S$. W 


ote à “round by S. littl 


wind, forsy 
g S. and S. S. W. 
2 ey La RE. br. foggy 
181155 58 3128 2|Ditto 
8 S.W. and W.S.W 
13/35 47 HA + I. br. rain 
W.and N. W. gut 
of wind, rain 
W.N.W. and W.S 
if W. mod. br. r. ch 
W. and S. W. mod 
fbr r. hazy 
Oe N. W. and Ws 
341149 I — — 10/27 a W. |. br. cl. 


251153 23 1/28 
431151 36 1128 
39150 4 10/27 10 


S. W. and W.S.W 


311147 501147 50/23 32 9127 little wind, hazy 
} 


| bleed 


round by W, litil 


Von. II, 


fthe Atmfiker 
Marge 


5. E. 1, br, ci 
«and E, SE 
ufts of win 


mod, br, fai 
and E. N,E 
ind, fair 

5. and N.E 
>. cl, 

>. and E. mo 
br. guits o 
rain 

NE. 1. br, cl 
ind E. NE 
cl. 

2. varying t( 
round by E 
air 

. varying t 
W. round b 
1s br. cl. 


varying to Sf 


br. cl. rain 
and S,S,E 
by S. mod 


py : 
. varying t 


round by W 
ain 
ing to S.S.F 


foggy 

ng to S. W 
lo E. N. I 
by E. 1, br 


. ands. EF 
g to s. W 


S. littl 


nd W.S.W 
ain 
N.W. gui 
d, rain 
. and W.S 
od. br. r. ch 
LS. W. mod 


Vv 

Vand W.$ 
br. cl. 
ind W.S.W 
Wind, hazy 


by W. litt 


North Com 


Long, 
Latitude. We 


Weft Long | Weft Long. 
ted by the by thepift. 
i Of the Mo, Needle |obferv- 


tude me 
ft. Keeper, 
No. 14. 


20/147 


43/145 
461143 
23l141 


29|t41 
42|141 
| 19/142 
20/142 
20/141 
541141 

71140 


38/140 


431139 581139 591139 55 


41147 5 


381145 45 
S5|144 11 
571143 36 


22/142 39 


81142 43 


191142 44 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


from the 
Sun, 


361142 46| 


59 


56|141 26 


16|140 16 


Variation 
of the 


Ther. 
injer. 


ed at 
noon. 


Rurometer of 
Nairne, odferved 
at in the morn- 
ing, and 9 in the 

afternoon, 


a 
At 9.| At 3. 
P. L.IP, L. 


27 11/27 11 
2128 


2128 


i1/27 


Winds; state of the Atmofphere ; 
Remarks, 
SS 


W. Varying to S. S. 
E. round by S. 1, br. 


rather fogg 
S.S.E. oath, S.E. 
mod. br. cl. 


1, br. rain 

S. anid S.W. varying. 
to S. E. round by S. 
foggy 


S. E. varying to W. 
N.W. round by 6. 
little wind, foggy. 


W.N.W. varying to 
E. N. E. round by 
N. little wind, cl. 

N. did E. N.E. 1, 
br. rain 

E. varying to S. W. 
round by S. little 
wind, cl. rain 

S. and S:S. W. little 
wind, rain 

S. varying to W. S. 
W.andtoW.N.W. 

‘ little wind, fog 


149 W.S.W.and S.W. 


little wind, cl. 
W. and W. N. W.. 
little wind, fair 
W.N.W.and N.W. 
1. br. fair 
W. N. W. and W. 
mod. br. cl. 
E. andE.N.E-. little 
wind, foggy 
N, E. and N. little 
} wind fair 
a E: and E. N. E. 


a calm, fogg 


: |S. W. little wind, cl. 


E. N. E. varying to 
S. round by E. a 
calm, foggy 

N. E. and E. little 
wind, fog 

N.E. and E. N. E. 

j little wind toggy 

N. E. virying to S. 
W. round by E. I. 
br. rather foggy 
N. E. varying to S. 
W. round by E. le 
br. cl. 


LA ÉÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Rarometer of 


Variation | Ther + 
North | Computed “y the” by. bh. of the | inter. | Malena, obferved | winds; state of the At 
Latitude, ime | of the Mo, fod Kemerks, nofphere ; 
' Lee 1 si site 


» M.D. M] D. RP. LAP. L. 


At the 
Meridian. [gx 


W. varying to N.E, 
round by N. little 

-U wind, hazy 
W. mod, br. cl, 
S.W. varyin 
N.W. ound 


to W, 
by W. 
1. br. 


5 ie ENE. mod, 
br. ch. rain 
E.N.E. and E.S.E. do, 
N. E. varying to S. 
{ E. round ee E. |, 
br. rather foggy 
W. Nw W. and W. 
little wind, cl. rain 
We and Ww. N. W, 
5 mod, br.: fair 
» W.N.W. varying to 
25 4711 N. E. round by N. 
little wind, cl, 
N.W. and S.W. lit. 
tle wind, hazy 
W.S.W. and W. 
mod. bn. fair 
E. S. E. and §. E. 
mod. br. cl. rain 
EB. and. E. S. E, very 
little wind, rain 
jx E. and E. |. br. 
rain, cl. 
Ditto 
W.N. W. I. br. 
W.N.W. very little 
wind, fair 
W.N. W... br. fair 
N. W. and S. S. W. 
very little wd. fair 
eA very littie wind, 
hazy 
i: varying to S. S. 


19 


10 


191139 54 


591139 52 


491239 9 


W. round by S. very 

little wind, fair 

E. very little wi. foggy 
|W. N.W. very little 
wind, fair 

N. W. ditto 

We fair, 1. br. 

W. fr. br. hazy 

W.N.W. fr. br. foggy 

N.N.W.1. br. foggy 

Ditto 

S. very. little wind, do. 
S. and E. S. E. very 
foggy 

fi. 1. br, hazy 

Ditto 


171138 26 


Ï 
| 
i 
| 


PITTI 
Prt lddl 
PrTTItl 
PIilddd 


| 
I 
| 


491135 41/156 19 


50/1435 52,136 8 
211136 321136 54 


1 | 
[1 
F1 


saut 
ca 


A17153 

48152 
19152 
20/51 
21152 
22152 
23,51 


24151 
25149 


26149 


North 
Latitude, | “#8! 


D. M.D. 


Compu 
we 


151136 
341134 
71134 
401133 
21132 
161131 
481132 
21133 
561131 


22/130 


1|131 


Atmofphere ; 


toN.E, 
N. little 


cl 

ne to W, 
nd by W, 
LE. mod. 


SE, do, 
ing to S, 
by E, |, 
foggy 
and W. 
» Cl. rain 
air 
arying to 
nd by N. 
ch 
SW. lit. 
az 
ad W. 
air 
nd $S. E. 
1, rain 
. E. very 
9 rain 
E. |. br. 


br. 
very little 


br. fair 

S. S, W. 
wide fair 
tie wind, 


to S. S. 
oy S.very 
fair 
vd. foggy 
very little 


y 
Wy fogs 


r. foggy 


ind, do. 
 E, very 


; North 


sept. | Latitude, 


ROUND THE WORLD. Bi 


341134 291136 46 
71134 0134 4 
401133 351133 41 
21132 501833 7 
16,131 66! — 

48/132 31/131 53 
21132 5/131 40 
§6/13% ol130 25 


221130 49|129 58 


1,131 10] — 


35,130 8/128 58 
36129 23/127 51 


31,129 211127 54 


11129 3651127 58 


371128 231127 11127 


55 


56127 551126 38) 


421128 101126 58 


11128 9li27 2 
221128 7) — 


481128 22/127 23 


511128 241127 26| 


591127 55). — 
11,124 41) — 
11127 8/126 31 


125 29/125 2 


Den | 


1116 5514 


127 551126 36126 59116 35114 


16 20/15 
16 agit 
15 26114 

— 14 


ther. 
t inter, 
lobierv | 419 

. 


Harometer uf 


sf pad Winds s State of the Atmofphere ; 
tng, and À 1 the Remarks. 
À after 
' eS 
P. LJP. L.| 
_ | §N.E. very little wind, 
€ hazy 
— |N. W. 1. br. fair 
N.W. and S. W. tit- 


tle wind, hazy 
— |N.W.and W. 1. br. fair 
Fhe ov and S. S. W. fr. 
' br. fair 
— |S.and S.N. fr. br. hazy 
— |S.E. tr, br. fair 
— |W.N. W, |. br. foggy 
— |W. N. W. I, br. fair 
i” S. E. very little 
wind foggy 


N. varying to E. S, 

. and round ever 
28 1 point of the compals 
i] in whirlwinds, little 


wind, ft. 
W. varying to N. E. 
round by N. 1. br. 


rosy 
N.E. varying to W. 


228 2) { N. W. round by N. 
1. br. cl. 
W.N.W. varying to 
S.S. E. round by S. 
1. br. foggy 
§. andS.W.a calm, cl. 
W. S. W. varying 
to N. W. irregular 
guits of wind 


S. W. varying to S. 
428 44 E. round by S. a 
calm, fair 
| |( S. S. W. varying to 
428 iH N. round by W. 
| mod, br. fair 
328 3/N.andN.E.1. br. cl. 
28 À ae and N.N.W. mo- 
3; 2 derate br. foggy 
328 3|Ditto 
| 'CN.N.E. varying to 
2,28 1} N.W. round by N. 
| 1. br. fair 


28 N.andN.N.E. light 
oF breeze, cl. 

| N. N. W. and W. 
128 


11% little wind, foggy 
W. and N.W. 1, br. 
ARE } fogey 
| | ¢N.W.and N. fine br. 
22 " rather foggy 
À 


52 


sept, 
and 
of, 
2786, 


§. 23/36 39/124 53124 7] m= 08 


14136 551124 46,123 671124 gaits 


LA nait VOYAGE 


ort 
meth, | 


Le gl v À JA 
Nairne, obferv 
at gin ty € morn. winds ; ns | pa À. , Mmefphere 


iy, and 2 inthe 
oon. alt. noon, 


=| ————— = Poe de ref A SAR ec 
D. M.|D. M.\M. D.\D. M.D. M. D. P. LAL. P, 


461124 18124 © 


41124 521124 13 
461125 421125 12 
141127 71126 43 


461128 33/128 37,128 4911 


311132 37) — ae — (16 


431134 71133 28,134 26) — [16 


121135 331134 331 — |9 42/17 


561136 6/135 20) — | 9 33118 


321136 53/136 11] — | 9 118 


47|14 


39114 


43117 
21130 391130 15) — — (16 


N.N.W. and N.W, 
l, br. foggy 


N. W. varying to N, 
28 i i N.E,. round by N 


18 1128 © 


1, br, hazy 


W. and W. S. W, 
28 128 o|4 little wind, rather 
foggy. 
sé | = LE S. W. and W, 
I, br. fair, 
— | § S. varying toE.§. E, 
Pigually w. fair, 
S. am! varying to §, 
W. round by §, 
moderate br. fair, 
» W. and W.S. W, 
moderate br. cl.rain, 
N.N.E. se fi to 
the W.N.W round 
Ph Aas 1, br. fair, 
W.and S. E. round 
by S. mod. br. fair, 
. W. varying toW. 
S. W. round by W, 


1. br. fair. 


little wind, fair. 
W. varying to E. S, 
E. round by S. little 
ind, cl, 
S. W. varying to W, 
N.W. round by W. 
aH » wind, hazy 
te varying to 
N. W. 
wind, cl. 
W.N.W.and NN. 
W. do. 
N.W. and W.N.W. 
moderate br. hazy. 
15 N. W. and N. 1, 
br. foggy. 
§ N..and N. N. E. mo- 
3 d derate br. rather cl. 
ia and N.N. W. |. 
br. hazy. 
N. ard N. E. 
3 j wind, hazy. 
3|N. N. E. 1. br. cl. 
r E. varying to W. 
3 


S. E. round by §, 
w 


little 


3 


} 
i 
RE ngt 
j vying to 
ea 
t 
HY 
À w 
3 


little 


round by N. little 
wind, hazy. 
fw S. W. varying to 
3:4 N.N. E. round by 
iL Nv br. dl. 


North 
Latitudes 


Computed 
Long! tude 
Welt. 


D, M\D. M 


, 627 361137 5% 


7 571138 58 


118 
MEL 
1018 
ul7 591145 


nh7 591145 4 
by 541146 


61140 13 
71141 38 
31143 29 


14:7 491147 1 


17 581148 5 


16:8 31149 2 


1727 531149 2 


187 481149 3 


1928: 5|150 


20h27 421150 4 


u1l27 471151 


2228  9|152 


2328 5152 


2427 25154 
2527 321154 


26:27 271155 


2727 31156 


2826 59158 


2927 131159 


ae my 5! 


ther, 


[we Long, 
he inter, 


“ime 


h 
rhe Mmatpher; 


and N.W, 
BY 

ry ing to N, 
be by N, 
ny 


. S, W. 
nd, rather 


8 4719 
4 and W, — 19 
toE, SE, 2 
. fair, , 59 dé 
ing to §, 8 45120 
nd by S, 8 ase 
br. fair 
br.cl.rain, 
varying to 16/28 3l149 231/148 36 9 3221 
|. W round 4 
br. fair, 
S. E. round 7 s3lr49 281148 35 9 31522 
1. br, fair, 
ing toW, ; 
ind by W, 18127 48149 371148 391 — | 9 3122 
varying to 
und by $, 1928: sliso 9/849 — 21 
d, fair, 
4 to E, 6, , 
by S. little 20/27 42/150 49 wg [a6 
ing to W, 
ind by W, 21/27 47lis2 181149 55 > 19 3820 
|, hazy 
varying t 
W hth 2228 ‘olr52 711150 26 oe" [0% 
2328 = sing2 34/150 56 ve’ is 
and N,N. 
2427 261154 271152 47 9 5329 
W.N.W. : 
on. hazy. 
and N. |, 2527 32154 47/153 32 1e: ded lated 
N.E.mo. § 
rather cl, 26/27 271055 38/854 221155 15/10 40:20 
NN. W. 1. 
I 27/27 31156 331355 22 191 
E. little 
ae 2926 solrs8 361157 8 19 30/23 
Cl. 
ig to W, 
N. little 2927 13159 10,157 43 10::#2139 
rying to 
ound hy 


ae ype 81157 281158 44l1r 4/21 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


Marometer of 


53 


Nolene, obferved 


he + | Winds 5 State of the A 
lobfery.| at gin the morn 3 sof the Atmeatyheny 4 


ing, and 9 in the 


ie EN E and E. ltd 
. . . a # itt e 
a8 438 4 wind, cl, 
18 528 nr «LS à pa 
:. and E. N. E. litt 
28 48 41) wind, cl 
28 4/28 4 (Pageranbey br. fair. 
. var, to$, W.round 
28 528 42 by 8: little w fair 
W.N.Wvar.toS.E. 
28 4928 419 sound by N.acalm. 
28 5128 4|S.E.andE.§. E.1.br. 
28 4128 3/Do. cl. 
28 3/28 3 pt hae S. S. E. 1. 
S.E. var. to S.S, W. 
28 4/28 3,4 round byS. a calm, 
l hazy,d.m.50° 18/45" 
W.S. W. varying to 
28 4128 4 } N. E. round by N. 
a calm, cl. 
N. W. varying to S. 
28 5128 3 } E. round by W. 
little wind, cl. 
S. E. var. to §. W. 
28 3/28 2/4 round byS.1. br. ci. 
d. n. 47° 37! 30" 
S. W. varying to N. 
28 al28 2/4 E. round by N. lit- 
tle wind, ft. 
cs. S. E. varying to 
28 428 112 W.S.W. round by 
l S. little wind, rain. 
28 8 S. W. and S. S. W. 
pe nee Oe j little wind, rain. 
28 3:28 3/W. varying to N. E. 
| N.E, varying to W. 
28 328 2 1 N. W. round by N. 
1, br. cl, rain. 
N.and N.N.E. very 
28 928 2 } little wind, tair. d. 
nN. 474% 
g N. N. W.and N. I. 
28 328 3 j br. fair. 
N.E.andS.S.E.round 
a 24 4 } by E. mod. br. rain. * 
E. S. E.and S.S. E. 
28 2/28 114 fr. br. cl. irregular 
guits of wind. 
S. S. E. varying to 
28 1/28 su S. S. W. round by 
S. little wind, ft. 
S.S.W .and W.S.W, 
28 9/28 2 


——\— 
P. LP. L, 


N. and E. N. E. lit. 


1. br. fair. 


D. M.iD. M. 


31}t59 21 


451160 42159 28 
44,162 38161 29 


2 


351166 0165 


331166 39165 


431167 531867 13 
39/1768 28/168 x 


51/169 451169 


| 


371172 3l172 
174 22/174 


175 


15 
10175 24 


181176 31176 


131176 40:76 


541177 1,174 


361177 28 


171179 371179 15 
Eaft. | Eaft. 


$1178 28:79 


571177 301178 24 


32176 #78 
3$17s 40 176 


3|174 49,176 


| 


111174 lg 


30173 61174 


lwea Lorg. 


"ss 


164 39) = 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


‘wet Lou 
the Di 


D. M.\D. M.}D. M. D. 


32 176 tal 0/20 


51176 aslrr 


551178 36112 


— 


Fatt, 


— 


ie var. to E.§, 
2 


(CE cl. 


21Do. fine br. cl. 
WE. and E,S.E,.|.br, fai 


* varying to N, 
I 


1/Do. moderate br. cl. 


Winds; State of the Atnofy 
Remarks, 


round by N, littled 
fair. dem. 4304, 
E, and E.S.E, fr, br, ( 
‘jé S$. E.andE.N, 
moderate br, fair 


E, and E.S.E. pug 
of wind, rain À 
$ E.and. E.N. Bb 


overcatt, rain 


W. round by 


cutts of wind, rain 


sx N. E. and N,} 
W. fr. br. do, 


j NN. W. vai. toV 
little Wind, hazy 


W.N. W. varyin 
to S. W. round b 


W. little wind, ol. § 


S.S. W. varying tq 
W.N.W. round by 
W.1. br. rain 

W. and N. W, very 
little wind, cl. . 


W. and W. N. WA 


da, fair 


N. W. varying to N. 
2 } E. round by N. mo- 


derate br. fair 
’N. and N. N.W.mo- 
derate br. cl. 


2|Do. fair 
| $ W.N. W.andN.N, 


W. 1. br. rain 


E round by N. lit- 
tle wind, cl. 


1" W. varying to N. 
1) 


S. E. round by S. I. & 


br. fair 


j N. E. varying to FE. 
I 


N. W. guits of w. 
rain 


j S. E. varying to W. 
t 


1. br. fair 
3 W. varying to S. 


¥ 4 N.W. andW.N.W. § 


E. round by §. |. 
br. fair 

S.S.E. and W. round 
by S. mod. br.cl.rain 


—_—) 


D. MAL 
fo 3311 


10 44 
to 2011 


ho 3 
io 30 


ho 53i1 


HU 


fat 


1021 


Nn 


North 
Latitude. 


at 


20 481 


10 47 1 


27\r 


20 


© 
L 


391 


211I 


920 521 


OV! 


nio #6: 


311 


mio 26| 


Vindsi State of the À 
Remarks. timers 


round by N, ite 

fair. d, n, 43°, 
Sy and EXS.E, fr, bree 
Us S. E.andE.N, 

moderate br. fair 
Do. cl. 


E. and E.S.E 


E var. to E.$ 


of wind, r ain. 
E. and. F. NE. 
overcait, rain 
Yo. fine br. cl, 
1 and B.S. E. | br fai 
FE. varying to N, 
W. round by 


quits of wind, rain 


N..N. E. and N,} 
W. fi. br. do, 

Jo. moderate br. cl. 
N.'N. W,. vai. to 
little wind, hazy 

| ane N. W. varying 

| oS. W. round by 


W. little wind, ci 


“§. S$. W. varying tq 
W.N.W. round by 
W. 1. br. rain 

W. and N. W, ver 
little wind, cl... 


W. and W. N. WA 


da. fair 


N. W. varying to N. 
E. round by N. mo. 


derate br. fair 
N.and N. N.W.mo. 
derate br. cl. 

. fair 

W.N. W. andN.N, 
W. 1. br. rain 

IN. W. varying to N. 
E round by N, lit- 
tle wind, cl. 

. E. varying to E, 


S. E. round by S18 


br. fair 
S. E. varying to W. 
N. W. guits of w. 
rain 


.W.andW.N.W. 9 


1, br. fair 

. W. varying to S. 
E. round by $. |. 
br. fair 

.S.E. and W. round 
by S. mod. br.cl.rain 


14/20 


14120 


North 
Latitude. 


. 31157 


Com uted y the {by | nid. 
pom nar ime 
ball. Keeper, rn t 
No, 18, su 
pe 


M.\D. MJD. MAD, M 


331170 36179 


44169 61170 
201167 32/368 


391166 0!166 
30l164 301165 


531163 sal1é4 
391163 171164 


481162 491163 


47 161 3l16n 


31158 571rs9 

La 
271136 33,157 
21/1185 191156 
521153 O154 


OSE 3161 


551149 141150 
31147 181148 


261146 51147 


171144 381145 


44844 21/145 
41142 591143 
57|141 49|142 


91140 39/141 
53l140 61140 


451138 531139 


si 251137 


351149 57 


49) — 
cm 
72 A aa 
9 eet 
33) — 
19 ca 

6 — 
$5, — 
131148 47 
14146 39 
23; — 
49) “— 
14] — 
99 
24, — 
16] — 
45, — 


Fatt Longe } Raf tone, Variation Ther, 


interi: 


D. M. D. 
12 24123 
11 40,27 
A1 19,22 
11 29/21 
BI mag 
10 34/23 
9 3824 
to 1625 
110 ‘ie 
8 40122 
8 30 23 
~~  |22 
(7 10}21 
7 sal ok 
7 pes 
7 21 23 
6 7 24 
— M3 
3 5723 
3 3024 
3 2423 
3 ji 
r 3821: 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


Harometer of 
Nairne, olferved 
at > in the morn. 
ing, asd. 


after. son. 


D 


P. LAP. L. 


28 


2128 


in the 


‘1 rain. 


55 


eee 


Winds; Stataof the Atme(phere ÿ 
Reinasks, 


W. S. W. varying to: 


N.N. E. round by 
N. |. be. fair 


3IN. and N. E. 1, br, cl. 
LN. E. and NV E. 


fine br. cl. rain: 
TL. ant E. N. FE. [A br. 
fair 


#Ditto 


E. varying to W. S 
W. round by S. very 
little wind, fair. 


115 9. SW. and $. Ww. 
Ü fine br. guits of wind 


S$. Wand W.N.W. 
irregular gufts of w. 
rainy 

ii W. varying to N. 

E. round by N.gults 
dé w. mad. br, cl. 

Ne E. and FE. N, E. 
fine br. cl. 

E. Nw E. varying te 
$, moderate br. cl. 


2| 3 S- varying to N. W. 
d round by W.lbr.cl. 


W.N.W. varying to 
N.E. L Pie fair 

N. I. ant EB. NL EF. 
tr. br. el. 

E. and E.N.E. fine 
br, fair 


2|Ditto 


E. and Se E. fr. br. 


fair. 


IN S. E. varying to’ 


SS. W. 1. bi. cl. 


W. S. W. varying 
to N. E moxtepatir 


N. iE 
hazy 


PER bic 


Fr Do. cl. vain 


E.N.E. and N.E. 
1. br, cl. 

E.N.E. varying to 
W. S. W. round by 
S. mod. br. hazy 


N,N. W. round by 
W. |. br, fair 


{"s S. W. varying to 


2N. W.and N. |. br. fair 
f' N. W. varying to 


N. FE. rousd by N, 
Lobr, fair 


SS 


a 


a nnn se 
: —— = 


orth 
Pit pv ro a 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Computed LE pete oy eneDit. 


Keeper 
No. 18. 


D. M. 


22120 
23 20 


24/20 
25/20 


26120 


27/21 
28/21 


29/21 

30121 

31122 
2787 


J. 1/22 
2/22 


\ 


3l22 


21135 À 136 14 
© 45/22 


44131 271132 14) — O 42,22 


i 23/134 31] — 


5129 23/1130 171127 28| O 16/22 


Wet. 
19/126 30 — © 0 25/20 
46,19 


33/20 
23/21 


11,124 20125 22/122 58 


11,122 23/123 7/120 18 


15l121 17/122 Birrg 34 


16/119 38/120 51) — — (22 


21116 56119 4 


tolt14 13/216 20 
gltrz 58114 33 


23112 8] — 


4 — 


+) Eat Lone.) variation | There ind 
y.| at gin the morn- | Winds 5 State of the Atmofphd 
‘ ay a ing, and 3 in the Remarks, | 
* | noon 


Barometer of 
Nairne, obferved 


Lo dé 


N. E. and E.N, 
fine br. cl. 
3 ta N.E, and N, 
1. br; cl; 
N:E. and N.N. 
{trong br. cl. 
3|N.E. and N. fine br.d 


N. N. W. andN, 
A E. very ftrong b 
haz 


N. N. E. andE,d 


412 cl. rain 


3\N. E. arid E. fine br.cf 


E. and E. S. E. m¢ 
derate br. cl. 

E.S. E.andN.N. 5 
roundbyE. finebr.c 

N. E. and E.N.E 
fr. br. overcalt, fin: 
rain | 


6428 4/N. E. moderate br. m 
28 N. E. änd E. N, ‘ 

5?” 512 fine br. mitt 

N. E. varying to 
W. round by 

_ fine breeze, overca 
fmall rain 

N. and N.E.1.b 
overcaft 


528 5 


Pr North 
April, Latitude, 
wd lobferved at 
ways noon. 


QUE 


|p. M. 


jan At Macao. 


14 29 
Sailed fro. 
Cavita, 


Inds ÿ State of the Atmofohe À 
i Remarks, cad Or 


fed. | North 
api, | Latitude, | Latitude, | Longitude,| the Moon 


North 


g. 
by the Dif:| Eaft Long. | No. ia, at 
by the | noon, cor- 


Time réét:d by 


Eaft : 


Faft Lon; 


tances of 


ph md jobferved at} computed | computed | from the 


'N. E. and E.N, 
fine br. cl. 
E. N. E, and N. 
L br: cl: 
N:E. and N.N. 
~ ftrong br. cl. 
E. and N. finebr.d 


N.N.W.andN, 
E. very ftrong | 

hazy 

N.N. E. andE, d 
cl, rain 

. E. and E. fine br.cf 

E. and E. $. E. m 
derate br. cl. 


noon. 


E.S.E.andN.N.I 6|17 
roundbyE. finebr.d 3117 
'N. E: and E.N.E 41|17 
fr. br. overcatt, {ma 48115 
rain | 51115 
33/14 
. E. moderate br, m 25/14. 
N. E. and E.N. At Cavita, 
fine br. mift 7 Bis 
Sailed fro. 


N.E, varying to 


Cavita, 


13/22 


at noou, 


S4lr11 

31112 
54/112 
19|112 
551113 
551115 

O|115 
30/116 
20/117 

9,117 
19118 
48/118 
44/118 
45/118 
25/117 
441117 

11117 
31117 
27|118 


W. round by 
fine breeze, overca ic | be ie 
* fimall rain 44l1s 48l117 
N. and N.E.1.b 16 4 tt 116 
53/10 46,117 
overcatt . Dy Pole 
3217 33/117 
13/18 09 g.inr7 
32/19 21|117 
o]20 53/118 
28|21 19/117 
— [21 45/117 
1/22  7|117 
10/22 7|117 
26/22 20117 
51/22 45116 
59123 see 
39/22 42|117 
58/22 63117 
29/23 «19/117 


at noon, 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


Keeper, | obferv. of 


sun No. 18. | lift. of M. i 
reduced at} atnoon. | from Sun, | 
noon, and ufed in 
the Chart. i 
M.D. MD. MD. M.\M. D. 
j 
47 L 
34 NF 
36 | 
59] — 113 o 
40) — |113 54 
a} — |114 53 | 
58). — IIS 33 | 
29] — |116 6 il 
6} — |116 49 il 
52] — |117 26 14 
16 — |117 55 | 
27| — |118 25 
20] —— |118 22 
ri] —  |118 26 
46| — |118 27 
17| —  |117 37 
18] — |117 33 
56 see ha All the fol. 
Longitu es 
are found- 
Longit, of “ oe 
the Ob- 118 35/118 35|%owhici, 
fervatory. they have 
25) — {117 13/117 12 pple 
10| — |117 6l117 6 
$7| — |116 53l116 52 
11] —  |117 16|117 14 
18| — |117 24/117 22 
22| — |117 35117 33 
14] — |117 265117 22 
Wr] — 117 17/117 14 
29) == |117 git17 6 
35) — |tr7 ël117 5 
20] — [116 54/116 51 
10| —= 1116 46|116 42 
36| — |117 13l117 9 
481167 30/117 391117 34 
Mean be- 
42 “Sbiervas [117 33|117 28 
tions weft, 
17| — [116 181116 
23) — |117 441117 
13], — |117 37|117 
183, —— |117 40/117 
— |117 S1|117 
— |118 15|118 
— |119 17119 | 
— |119 18119 
— |119 52|119 
— |120 27/120" 
— |120 39|120 
wm |121 19/120 


Long. by 
TimeKeep. 


sovcceets: 


Se eNO te oe = — RE 
BREST. iene ‘arse aie ee. =. 


h 


North North 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Eaft 


Latitude, | Latitude, | Lougitude,| t4 
June, lobferved at) eomputed | computed | from the 


noon. at noon, 


53 
50 
37 


22144 54145 
23145 8145 
4; — a 


sun 


at noou, , 
reduce at 


120 
120 
120 


Place of 
anchor, 


17 


tions Weft. 


44 
27 
41 
49 
20 
48 
59 
32 
53} 

6 
28 


35 


133 40 


131 13 
131 32 


The firf of 
ithefe 3 1¢- 
filts, is by 
a meanbe 
tween 48 
obferva- 
tions Eaft ; 
the feconi! 
by 480 ob- 
| fervations 
F.it; and 
the third 
by 396 ob- 
fervations 
Eaft 


| zat Long. 
b. the 


Long, by 
limekeep. 


Time 
Keeper, 
No, 18, 
at noon, 


121 
121 
121 
121 
122 


123 


121 
121 
121 
121 
122 
122 
124 
124 


126 
127 
128 
128 
128 
f129 
130 
131 
132 
132 
133 
133 
134 
135 
135 
134 
133 
1132 
132 
133 
133 
134 
135 
135 


125 § 
126 23 
127 du! 
228 7 
128 7: 
128 33} 
129 20 
130 17 
1517 16 
131 54 
1932 10|' 
132 58 
1133 27 
321134 31 
351134 32 
21332 57 
1831132 11 
101131 I 
331131 22 
5531 52 
25132 10 
411133 24 

133 47/7 
201134 © 
1135 33/134 11 
135 581134 34. 
136 6,134 40|- 


43 

5 
56 
26 


331135 421136 

5718) LS 

10/20 obfe:va-| I 36 

2 tions Wett, I 36 
At the 

52 place of |f 36 


anchor, 


17/134 50 
311135 2 
291134 58 
281134 56 


201134 46] 


jus | North 
pis Latitude, 


At the ob. 
fervatory, 


North Eaft, 
Latitude, | Longitude, 
ind tubferved at} computed | computed | from the 
Be at nyon. | at noon. 


Eaft Long. 
by the bi.-/ Weft Lorg. 


tances of 
thé Moon 


sun, 


ROUND THE WORLD. 


Long. by 
rime Keep. 
No. a4, at 
by ihe | moon, cor- 

Thine rected by 
Keeper, | obferv, of 
No. 18. | dift. of M, 


reduced at} at noon. | from Sun, 


40/138 33 
541139 27 


331140 3811 


obferva- 
tions Eat. 


ahd ufed in 
the Chart. 


136 27,134 47 
137 40135 58 
133 521137 9 
148 581137 14 
139 3,137 16 
139 131137 22 
139 1331137 21 
139 191137 25 
139 40,137 44 


39 351140 55138 57 


Mean of 96 


18/140 49139 23148 151139 15 


{Mean of 56 


11/140 49 


9/140 57 


obferva- 
tions ER 


139 41 


141 201139 18 
141 341139 30 


6lr41 22/139 45/145 561139 51 


\The firft by 
72 obferva- 
tions Entt ; 

he fecond 


by 238 do, 


Atthe 


21! place of 


—  |141 25 


10140 58 
261140 32 
171140 20 
18140 5 
121140 5 
431141 8] 


s9|t4t 
34 


dices 2 
231140 49 
291139 57 
40) — 


141 1 


anchor, 


— [140 15439 49 
10 


At the 
place of 
a. chor. 


138 45 


1132 49 
rs? Sige 58 
141 421139 31 
141 201139 7 
14 15139 0 
141 31138 46 
141 71138 48 


142 131139 52 
142 231140 I 


142 27/139 59 
142 71139 37 
141 371139 S 
141 44/139 11 


Atthe 
pl eot 
anchor. 


Ditto, 


At aP.M. 


141 58 139 22 anchorcd 


At anchor 
in Baie de |I42 30 a 


Cattries. 


in Baie de 
Cattries. 


=, 


D 


So dur ese 


LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Faft Longitude 

the time heen’ wy 
18, fuppofing the 

Augutt Eaft Longitude, by|Longitude of the bay 
and North Latitude | North Latitude Faf Longitude  |the diftarces of thelof Caftries to be 148 
September, lobferved at noon.|computed at noon.| computed at noon. [moon from the fun,|d. 45 m. 11 f. and 
4797+ reduced at nogn. |the time loft every 
day by the time. 
keep, to be equal to 

40 m. 40f, 


SD. M. S.D. 

Auguft 241139 35 §0 
57139 oo 15 
81139 30 16 

231139 11 20 

211139 40 59 

45139 9 48 

54139 40 24 


By a mean between 
48 diftances of the 
mo.from the fun caft 


01139 59 38 
34140 15 
321140 30 
$li40 48 
34141 13 
27\142 30 
81143 27 
81143 43 
521144 35 
53l145 51 


THE « 
were very 
val in the 
going of 
tances, W 
during th 
fervations 


The fir 


tothe tim 
By amean between , . 
150 diflances of the tained at 


m.from the fun weft eat of Pa 
181147 32 30145 22 tween Ma 
541148 8 12 of fome ol 
59147 55 41 min, 5 bu 
41148 9 31 cluded thi 
11|149 11 28 many occt 
32/149 39 7 move any 
38 149 32 5 he had afc 
501149 35 34 Ecole Mil 
441149 5 53 _ The cc 
- $9/149 28 50 gitude of 
11/1650 41 the laft c 
3 26 Dagele 
September 1 40 correction 
2/48 keeper in 
caer AL V5 his refult 
trom the fun, eat. at the dif 
7157 6 441156 D polation, 
Mean between 32 


diftances of the mo 
from the fun, eaft. 


27 161165 42 658157 13 4sirt 
11 193156 4 7 — 1.7 
30 49/156 8 23 — 
44 39/155 26 18 ps 


At anchor, At anchor. 


O° 39/1585 14 27 


RER 


SERRE 


N. B. The following Table was addreffed, independently of the Journal of the Voy- 
age, by Dagelet to Fleurieu, the Ex-minilter of Marine, fiom whom I received 
it. Although the explanation of this ‘Fable, and particularly that of the Co- 
luinn of Correétions, does not throw all the Light on the Subjeét that might be 
defired, I was of opinion the Publication of thefe Pieces, without alteration, 
might be ‘etul to Navigators and Aftronomers,—French Editor, 


Faft Longitude 
time ‘kee i 


al of the Voy- 
dom I received 
at of the Co- 
that might be 
out alteration, 


ROUND THE WORLD: 


EXPLANATION 


OF THE 


ANNEXED TABLE OF LONGITUDES, 
FROM APRIL 11, TO SEPTEMBER 7, 1787. 


THE obfervations of diftances of the moon from the fun, both to the eaft and weft, 
were very numerous during our navigation in the feas of Eaft Tartary, till our arri- 
val in the bay of Awatfcha. By them we were enabled frequently to afcertain the 
going of the time-keeper, No. 19, by comparing the longitudes obtained by the dif. 
tances, with thofe which the time-keeper.would have bl on the fuppofition, that, 
during this whole navigation, it had preferved the daily motion deduced from the ob- 
frvations made at Cavita. 

The firft column of longitude prefents, each day, the longitude of the fhip, reduced 
tothe time of noon, as given by time-keeper, No. 19, according to its daily rate afcer- 
tained at Cavitas and by fuppofing the fituation of that port to be 117 deg. 30 min. 
eat of Paris, as deduced from the difference of meridian given by the time-keeper be- 
tween Macao and Cavita, all the corrections being made. A mean between the refults 
of fome obfervations of diftances weft, gave the longitude of Cavita in 117 deg. 50 
min.; but on reducing the obfervations made at Macao to this port, Dagelet con- 
cluded this refult to be too much by from 13 min. to 15 min, 2 fec. He had obferved, 
many occultations of fmall ftars by the moon, according to which he propoled to re- 
move any doubts that might remain as to the longitude of Cavita, being certain that 
he had afcertained the pofition of thofe planets inthe journals of his obfervatory at the 
Ecole Militaire. 
~ The column of correétions contains thofe which each day muft be made in the lon- 
gitude of the time-keeper, No. 19, in order to obtain the true longitude exprefled in 
the laft column. oe 


Dagelet does not explain the method he made ufe of in drawing up the column of 
corrections , we only know, that, after having computed the gain or lofs of the time- 
keeper in the interval between two feries of obfervations eaft and weft, by comparing 
his refults with the mean refult of each feries, he deduced the error of the time-keeper 
at the different periods of the lunar obfervations ; and thence derived by way of inter- 
| polation, the corrections for the intermediate days, 


. 62 LA PÉROUSE’S VOYAGE 


henge’ by the june 1th 
Time Keeper, No, 19, % i 
Cavita belag 117 ‘lege Corrections. True Longitude, 


April, May, and June, 
1787. Û 
go min, Eatt of Paris, 


Latitude. 


nes | eee nc —_—_eo“——————— ae eee 


D. M. S. D. M. S. D. §, June 
April 18 8 117 37 36 118 
45 0 116 59 30 117 
11 53 117 23 15 117 
46 33 117 21 30 117 
3 117 39 118 
30 Sees ha son 
9 117 24 
30 117 18 
57 117 39 
25 117 


118 


117 
r18 


117 


117 
118 
118 
117 
116 
118 
118 
117 
118 
Comp. 

5 119 
119 


120 
120 
121 
121 

| 121 


51 
Comp. 
o 
50 
55 
5 
13 


PELAAPT TEEPE EDEL UNE UMTS 


ROUND THE WORLD. 63 


Longitude by the 


une and Jul Time Keeper, No. 19 
ù 1787 Ye Latitude, Cavita being rh deg Corroétions. True Longitude. 


True Longitude, go m, Eaft of Paris. 
DRE 
nn D M. S. D. M. Ss. M. A D. M. Ss. 
S, | D, M, §, June 6 | 37 39 12 134 3a 10 
31 | 118 4 > 7 1 38 28 24 134 35 39 
16 | 117 28 46 8 | 39 16 53 33% 11 44 
44 117 54 59 9 = — — eee 
55 | 117 55 25 10 | 40 48 35 131 19 56 
48 | 118 15 33 11 | 41 54 46 131 35 30 
15 12 | 42% 35 46 132 3 45 
35 | 118 2 42 13 | 42 47 4 132 20 30 
38 | 117 57 53 14 | 43 32 31 133 36 20 
24 | 118 19 54 15 | 43 53 Comp.| — — — 
55 | 117 40 55 16. | 43 54 20 134 8 15 
10 17 | 44 20 Comp.| — — — 
9 | 117 36 54 18 | 44 7 30 nsc se. 
S1 | 118 22 1 19 | 44 30 o 134 52 30 
13 | 118 21 43 20 | 44 43 o 135 1 15 
49 | 117 21 4 21|— — — _—_—— 
55 | 116 56 25 as 45 2 § 135 22 30 
O | 118 12 15 | 23145 9 32 135 5 53 
4/118 o 434 24 | 45 10 32 134 51 15 
7 117 53 52 25 Lativude of anchorage. Lony of anchorage. 
9 | 118 14 24 à 26 | 4$ 11 16 134 61 15 
10 27 | 45 11 43 4 54 45 
10 | 119 42 o 28 | 46 4 4 4 19 
9 | 119 42 16 29 | 46 so 18 14 2 
6 30 | 47 19 16 12 5 
1 | 120 36 46 July 1147 50 2 30 
55 | 120 58 10 2 | 47 44 24 © 
47 | 121 33 27 | = 
38 | 121 22 38 4a|[— — 
28 | 121 20 13 5147 43 
6 
7 
8 


23 
59 
53 
21 
34 
37 
56 

° 
28 
11 

9 
18 
10 
26 
43 


19 


PPPTEEPEET TTP EP EP PETE ETT adda 


5 
12 
4r 
15 
51 
30 
34 

2 

4 
10 
30 
40 
35 
15 
26 
27 

° 
43 
des 
30 


64 LA PEROUSE’S VOYAGE 


Longitude by the 
Auguft and september, Time Keeper, No. 195 Corredtion 
1787. Cavita being 117 deg. ee True Longitude, 
go min, Haft of Paris. 


D. 
139 


M. D. 

48 138 

49 

CL 139 

52 138 

53 139 
139 


Auguft 


140 
139 
140 
139 
139 
140 
140 
140 
140 
141 
142 
143 
145 
145 
146 
148 
149 


© CN AUP WwW D 


148 
149 
150 
150 
152 


— 


3 
September = 
156 
157 


158 
158 
158 


PELE TP EPP EEE EEE PEGE TEEPE s 


ERRA.TUM. 
In Abbreviatidffs to the Tables for « declination’ read ** dip.” 


SUBSTANCE 


True Longitude, 


= 
os 
w 
rey 


conoro. 

Sant 

os 

© 

Nn 

Ns 

om 

z 


HBFH OCH OY AS RE DW 0: 
a 
+ 
o 
te 
ESS 
on 
oe 


— 2 — 


© 
mi 
&È 
N 
np 
“N — 
wm 
°o oo 


7 


2ooaon 
od 
+ 
00 
EN 
a 
un 
Le] 


NH DO OO = pO 
ent 
wn 
a 
+» 
Co 
wn 
Le] 


« dip.” 


SUBSTANCE 


Zz 
O 
ps 
< 
= 
À 
< 
> 
LL 
LAs 
O 
< 
= 


TEST TARGET (MT-3) 


a ne SRE ATP ET NI ITI ONES 


16 


14 


Vos o 


AH 


i 
A 
+ % 


Fe & Pinus > : 
i yee a À ‘ “4 hi am 


wuts, oa 


tye à 


11% ey 
; pie 9 ao 


Te MN tre Patton a thse De Re. Ba a . 
Yi ouipitéao SUBSTANCE OP THE: 
By ae 0 

ee 


02 De DOVE tee DRE Se Em "Pe VE RENE OU OP M De Me ye oer rr 
VELS OVER THE CONTIN iN | 
À à A ‘ 4 2 4 i, Re * , FD | u à 
7 ¥ 3 à ol , — ? “Fast 
saat à : 4 - WEEE toe à pie oP ase © * 
a + 


000 ic ufr rar msraTem teen 2 ue 0 


s ues! A 
US TR t 
‘LaPe 
14 fae be at oe ey es, Lui 
és RARE ety ae 4 7 
ta 


2 
«RCA 


Fa Res De es NES hod Pa dx - alee iy Fe AS + 

‘ie Phe Years 177 and 1786, °°" 

PR ae aed Lass oa eS RC à ARTS Ve A NS ee ey 
nS à FENTE LS à OA PAPER SAT à Rar 

“4 Gi de : ge Ù ae ae @ 

ja : EUR FN Pee IE EM 


iF. ERA 
ko 
i 


tol MERANSLAT RONROQM THE FRENCHY) | 1 1 
neh frigates, the Aftrolabe and tha 

; Having arrived at the port. of Saint 

d Saint Paul, in the Bay of Avaticha, on the 
Pree site TEL SRE" LR Per. LRU SR eis Cota ay 
ptember, 1787, it appeared defirable. to 


# 
# 


‘de ls Péroufe, Commander in Chief of. the 
lob, “for the reafons affigned in the Voyage, 

dhs’ dlipatctes over land to Pari With this 
he-entrufted M. de Leffeps, Conful of France, 

“Bail Actonipanied Him two years, and wha 

i particularly fitted for the undertaking, from his 
7owledge of the language of Ruffia.” On the 29th, 
| therefore, of the fame month, M, de Leffeps quitted 
| the Aftrolabe, and having received the difpatches and 
nftructions of the Count de la Péroufe, took leave 
hit and his colleague, the Vifcount de Langle, in 

> evening, and was conducted to the houfe of Co- 

ick Kaflotf-Ougrenin,; Governor-General of Okotik 
and Kamtfchatka, to whom the Count-had ftrongly 
ecommended him. == EAT 
nu the morning of the doth, the frigates left the 


ay with a fair wind, and were.prefently out of fight. 
+ Kafloff had promifed to accompany, M. de. Lef- 
féps'as far as Okottk, the refidence ofithe Governor, 
whither he was ander the neceffity of going imme- 
ttely. A few days, however, which the neceflary 
angements and préparations for their departure re- 


2 TRAVELS FROM 


… quired, gave M. de Leffeps an opportunity of making 
fome remarks upon what he faw, and of noticing, in 
particule the bay of Avatfcha, with the port of Saint 
eter and Saint Paul. © a LU 
The bay, fince the time ‘of Captain Cook, by 
whom it was then accurately defcribed, has under- 
gone fome alterations ; and from the great and ufe- 
ful talents of M. Kafloff,‘farther improvements are 
expected, efpecially with regard to the port of Saint 


Peter and Saint Paul, which will render it com-. 


pletely,. what indeed former navigators have already 
adjudged it, the moft commodious and fafeft port in 
that part of.Afiä. The number of :houfes here at 
this time did not exceed five or fix, inhabited by 
’ the Governor, whofe name was Khabaroff, and with 
whom M. Kafloff refided, the ferjeant and corporal 
of the garrifon, which confifted of forty foldiers or 
coffacs, and a building which ferved as a ma Raine. 
But the plan of M. Kafloff extends to the building a 
tov. i,. which may become the general commercial 
depôt.of the country ; and which is like to be the 
cafe, when the advantages of this port over all others 
are confidered, where the navigation has been held 
fo dangerous, that, by an exprefs edict of the Em- 
prefs, it was entirely prohibited after the 26th of Sep- 
tember. ‘The village, fituated on the narrow pro- 
jection of land at the entrance of the port, comprized 
thirty or forty habitations, fome of them ufed in Sum- 
mer, Others in winter; and the inhabitants, men, wo- 
men, and children, including thofe belonging to the 

garrifon, did not exceed one hundred. =" : 
Lofty mountains, forne covered with fhow, and 
others that. have volcanos, render the banks of Avat- 
fcha. Bay difficult of accefs. The vallies are ex- 
tremely fertile? abounding with. grafs of an aftonifh- 
ing height, intermixed with a variety of flowers, that 
throw around a charming fragrancy. Spring and 
Autumn are.in general rainy, and in Autumn and 
gees ag Ni ee, "Winter 


‘“unfortuna 


Winter b 
fometime 
not perce 
prefented 
or May. 
little thu 
Two ri 
Avatfcha, 
ratounka. 
cies of 
the ice eff 
does in 
Paul. 
On the 
this port, 
leff, Eafe 
rokhoff, § 


made; 4 
foldiers, 
command 
whole par! 
der to cro 
plied with 
The oft 
arrived in 
the river € 
mouth. | 
Peter and 
made by t 
number 0 
ter houfes 
built of w 
fian villag 
receiv 


| houfe, anc 


The ba 
ment, raif 


KAMTSCHATKA, 3 


Winter blafts of wind are frequent.. The Winter is 
fometimes rainy, but though long, M. de Lefleps did 
not perceive its rigour fo exceffive as it has been re- 
prefented. Snow falls from Odtober till April or 
or May. The Summer is tolerably fine, with but 
little thunder, and that never injurious. 

Two rivers empty themfelves into the bay, the 
Avatfcha, from which the bay is named, and the Pa- 
ratounka, ‘They abound. with fifh, and every, fpe- 
cies of wild fowl, but after the 26th of November 
the ice effectually clofes them up, as it commonly 
in January the port of Saint Peter and Saint 

ul. | | 

On the 7th of October, M. de Leffeps quitted 
this ports in company with Mefirs. Kafloff; Schma- 
leff, Infpector-General for the Kamtfchadales; Vo- 
rokhoff, Secretary to the Governor; Ivafchkin, an 
unfortunate exile, of whom great mention has been 
made; and four ferjeants, with thc fame number of 
foldiers, who formed: the Governor’s. fuite. : The 
commanding officer of the fort alfo attending, the 
whole party embarked in baidars, . ¢. boats, in or- 
der to crofs the bay to Paratounka, and there be fup- 
plied with horfes. : 

The oftrog, a village of Paratounka, whither they 
arrived in five or fix hours, is fituated by the fide of 
the river of that name, about two leagues from ‘its 
. mouth. It is not more populous than that of Saint 
Peter and St. Paul, owing, perhaps, to the ravages 
made by the fmall-pox; and contains neafly the fame 
number of.balagans and ifbas, or fuminer and win- 
ter houfes, as Petroparlofska.. Here was a church, : 
built of wood, and ornamented like thofe in the Ruf- 
fan villages, with a refident prieft or rector, who 
received M. de Leffeps and his company into his 
houfe, and treated them with great hofpitality. | 

The balagan, or fummer houfe, is only one apart- 
ment, raifed upon pofts about twelve or thirteen feet. 

(a 2) -. from 


4 TRAVELS FROM . 

from: the ground, forming a rough fort of colonade, 
with.a floor or platform of rafers joined to each 
other, and overfpread with clay, and a conical roof, 
covered with a kind of thatch or dried grafs. . An 
opening: in. the roof lets out the fmoke when a fire is 
neceflary, and in this one apartment they cook, eat, 


drink, and-flecp. ‘The entrance is by atree: raifed : 


from: the ground to the floor, upon which fteps are 
rudely cut; and when thefe fteps are turned in- 
wards; it denotes. that no one is at home.’ 

The principal food of ‘the Kamitfchadales and of 


their dogs, is dried fifh, which ishung.up:underthe — 


colonade of the balagan, out of the reach of the 
dogs, the moft vicious of which are tied to the pofts. 
The dogs are ufed to draw their fledges, a, defcrip- 
tion of which will be given. The ifba, or winter 
houfe, confifts of two rooms, with a ftove fo fixed. as 
to warm: both. : In the larger rooms are benches co- 
vered with bear’s fkin, which makes a bed for the 
chief of the family ; befides this, there isa table, and 
a number of images :of Saints. ‘The panes of the 
windows, which are fmall, are made. either of the 
fkins of falmon, the bladders of various: animals, or 
the gullets of fea-wolves; and fometimes, among 
the richer: people, of the leaves of talc, which is 
more tranfparent than any other material. ‘Thefe. 
winter houfes have no colonade or portico, but have 
their fides raifed from the ground, by laying trees 
one upon: another, and filling the interftices with 
-clay ; the rdof flants, and is thatched.. 

Every oftrog, or village, is governed by a magif- 
trate, called. Toyon, who is chofen by a majority 
from among the natives, though the election mutt 
be approved by the jurifdiction of. the province ; 
under, him is. an: affiftant of his own!) appointment, 
called Yefaoul; andiupon any complaint againft thefe. 
magiftrates, they: are difmifiéd: by fuperior tribunals, 
and others recommended to be elected;in their Pass 

. f n 


. 


the virtu 


“Onwth 
lers, con 
or févèn 
satounke 


greater 
Koriaki t 
der of t 
night, a! 
kin, refo 
hood, fo 


genuity 
prompte 
for the b 
a little 
called tl 
could re 
the oppo 
feven an 
deferiber 


‘paths, v 


caufed h 
vote fom 
veftigati 
fing feve 
tion, thi 
journey 
and Bol 
afforded 
and two 
ance of 
ds they 
obliged 
ceeded ¢ 
Kamtfcl 
with lot 


ade, 
each 
roof, 
. An 
Are is 

eat, 


aifed : 


S are 
d'1n- 


f the 
ls, or 
none 
ch Ë 
Chefe. 
have 
trees 
with 


agif- 
jority 
muft 


nce; 
nent, 
thefe: 
nals, 
tead. 
On 


_ . RAMTSCHATKA, 5 
‘On the th; M. de Leffeps; with his fellow-travel- 
lers, contiñüeéd their journey on horfeback; arid'in fix - 
or fevénhouts arrived at Koriaki, which, from Pa- 
satounka’ is from thirty-eight to forty werfts *. The 
greater part of the baggage was conveyed by water, 
Koriaki being fituated in a fmall wood upon the bor- 
der of the river Avatfcha. Here they paffed the 
night, and the next day fet forward towards Natchi- 
kin, refolving to ftay a few days in’ the néighbour- 
hood, for the fake of fome warm medicitial fprings, 


uthe virtues of which had been afcertained by the in- 


genuity of M. Kafloff, and whofe goodnefs had - 
prompted’ him to build commodious bathing-rooms 
for the bénefit of the Kamtfchadales. Pafling over 
a little mountain, they at length had to ford a river 
called the Bolchaia-reka, or large river, before they 
could reach thé village Natchikin, which ftood on 
the oppofite fide, and was found to contain fix or: 
feven and twenty houfes, like thofe that have been 
defcribed. Hence they hafted immediately to the 


paths, which were diftant two werfts; and having 


caufed huts to be raifed to fleep in, refolved to de- 
voté fome little time for the purpofe of minutely in- 
veftigating the properties of the water. After paf- 
fing féveral days in this enquiry with great fatisfac- 
tion, the 17th was fixed for the profecution of their 
journey ; and as this was to be by water to Apatchin 
and Bolcheretfk, ten boats or canoes, all the country 
afforded, were procured, of which, by lafhing two 
and two together, rafts were formed ‘for the convey- 
ance of themfelves, and as much of their baggage 
as they could lay on them; but fome of it they were 
obliged to leave behind, In this manner they pro- 
ceeded down the Bolchaia-reka, with the help of four 
Kamtfchadales, who fometimes pufhed on the rafts 
with long poles, and at others got into the water and 


* About eighteen or twenty miles. 


(A 3) hauled 


6 TRAVELS FROM 


hauled them; the river, in many places, being only 
one or two feet deep, in fome not more than fix 
inches. The navigation, however, being extremely 
difficult, on account of ftones,and fhoals, and even 
trees that lay in the way, it was thought imprudent 
to continue the voyage after day-lights and M. 
Kafloff having a tent with him, this was pitched on 
the right-hand bank of the river, at the entrance of 
a wood, near the place, according ta Cook’s Voyage, 


where Captain King and his party halted, Here they 


paffed the night with tolerable comfort, and fetting 
out early the following day, in four hours they 
reached. the fmall village of Apatchin, where, find- 
ing ‘nothing to excite curiofity, they made the beft 
of their way to Bolcheretik, and arrived.there at fe. 
ven in the evening. 


_ M. de Leffcps was, immediately on his lan ing, | 


conducted to the houfe of the Governor, who fhewed 
him every civility in his power; but. his attention. 
was at ance arrefted by the news of a galliot from 
Okotfk haying juft been wrecked a little diftance 


‘from Bolcheretfk. One of thefe galliots, it feems, is — 


difpatohed every year, by order of Government, laden 
with provifions and other articles of merchandize for 
the ufe of the peninfula, M, Kafloff, wifhing to give 
every affiftance in his power towards faving the gal- 
liot, determined on going to the wreck, and invited 
M. de Lefleps to accompany him. With this view 
they fet out on the morning of the 20th,. at eleven 
o’clock, upon two floats conftructed. of canoes, and 
at feven in the evening landed at Tchekafki, a 
trifling hamlet, where was a building called a ma- 
gazine, to réceive the fupplies which are brought 
from Okotfk. Having flept at this: hamlet, the next 
day they renewed their project ; which however, af- 
ter various attempts, the violence of the hurricanes, 
and the rapidity and agitation of the river, grown 
wider and deeper towards its mouth, obliged them ta 

| Loi abandon; 


abandon 
they pe 
“ arri 
. There 
this tow 
retfk, wh 
and: chil 
hundred, 
yenty co 
military: 
every ki 
are merc 
. Thec 
Ruffians 
credulou 
induced 
of one j 
prevailed 
beauty, 
their trac 
particula 
drunken: 
year goe: 
all their 
dear ;-br 
a vedro « 
to twent 
pounds 1 
is made. 
half the 
In div 
fer little 
of their: 
on one | 
nankeen 
this fhi 
wear. be 
ways we 


KAMTSCHATKA. YJ 
abandon ;) and patting: back to Tchekafki, where 
they paffed another night, on the evening of the: 22d. 
ve arrived again at Bolcherettk. , tyeyiaby iat 
-: There appears to be: nothing very, remarkable in 
this town or fort, Krepoft, as it is called, of Bolche-. 
retfk, where the population, including men; women, 
and: children, amounts to between }two and. three 
hundred, among which is to be reckoned fixty or fe- 
yenty  coflacs or foldiers; who, in: addition to, their 
military duty, which is but trifling, are.employed in. 
every kind of labour. The: reft of the inhabitants 
are merchants and failors: hy ited oe hie: 
. The chief excellence: ofithe people here}; who. are 
Ruffians and. coffacs, feems to lie in -ehiéating the 
credulous Kamtfchadales, who for.a little;brandy are 
induced tobarter at confiderable lof. And.an inftance 
of one js given, who for a glafs of | this liquor: was 
prevailed on to part with feven fables | of the greateft 
beauty, which was all he had, : The chief part of 
their trade is furs, among) which that of the fable is 
particularly. valuable ; but fuch is their propenfity to. 
drunkennefs, that frequently the ftock of a whole 
year goes for the indulgence of it... The fearcity of 
all their wares and provifions makes them extremely 
dear ;- brandy is immenfely fo, efpecially the French, 
a vedro of which, a meafure:containing from fifteen 
to twenty quarts, fells for eighty roubles, or eighteen 
pounds fterling ; that brought from Okottk, or which 
is made: from a fwect herb in the country, is fold for 
half the price. bug @: | 
» In living and drefs, the people of Bolcheretfk dif- 
fer little from the Kamtfehadales.. The exterior part 
of their-drefs:is the {kins of various animals, tanned 
on one fide, under which they wear a fhort fhirt of 
nankeen or-cotton-.; the women, as a luxury, make 
this fhirt or fhift of: filk. Both men and women 
wear. boots Summer and Winter, and the men al- 
ways wear fur caps. The women -are: clothed like 
(A 4) the 


8 TRAVELS PROM 
the Rufflan' women, except thofe, who: fometimes 
adopt-the drefs of the men. Their food eens 
is dried fifh, fruit, atid vegetables; which: laft it is 
the bufinefs of the’ women to collect. The moft com- 
mon fort of. fifh is trout,. and falmon of different 
kinds: the tribe of vegetables is not numerous. 
The figure of the Kamtfchadale, almoft too well 
known to'need defcription, is fhort, rather corpu- 
tent, a flat nofc, black hair, with little or no beard, 
and a sp aa teen In their manners, they are 
fimple, mild, and'hofpitable; given, it cannot be de- 
nied, to floth, drunkennefs, and idlenefs ; ‘confe- 
‘quently, they are negligent in point of cleanlinefs ; 
but poffefling a degree ‘of honour and’ humanity, 
which the vices of’ Europeans: have not. yet oblite- 
rated. In fome, however, ‘the growing influence of 
what ‘is called civilization’ may’ be perceived.’ Jt is 
only when civilizers are governed by ‘ftrict: religion 
and prudence that they canbe deemed ufeful. 

. de Leffeps and his companions gave frequent 
balls to the ladies of Bolcheretfk, who were flrongly 
addicted to pleafure, and the young ones feemed 
prematurely forward. ‘They pofiefied a cheerfulnefs 
not always kept within the pale of ‘decency, were 
fond of finging and dancing, and on ball nights their 
drefs was coftly and alluring. Their hufbands, how- 
ever, are ftrangers to jealoufy ; for. which, perhaps, 
there mfght be no reafonable foundation. if 

The dances of the native Kamtfchadales are fa: 
gular, and by no means pleafing ; the perfo:mance 
being little more than imitating the various motions, 
amorous and otherwife, of the different animals in 
the country, particularly thofe of the Bear, in which 
they are moft favagely accurate. | 

‘Their/method of taking the bear is fometimes by 
fnares, which are fcaffoldings fufficiently raifed, and 
fo conftructed as to kill the animal by falling on 
him. ‘Sometimes they are fhot; on which ee 
: the 


the. hunt! 
and a kni 
in ambuft 
vifions wi 
mifles ; b 
then atta 
danger, a 
life. Th 
ters, of ' 
hares, are 
times, in 
extreme |f 
firft viéto 
Their fea 
the fur of 
have feat 
caught in 
at any tir 


‘* mon nets 


with whi 
in the fi 
land. 
Horfes 
were fon 
coflacs, b 
in Summ 
other efft 
vellers. 
dogs, abc 
in abund 
or carrias 
expénce, 
for them. 
fuffered : 
proach « 
commen 


with gre: 


native, h 


KAMTSCHATKA. ‘9 
the huntfman is provided with a carabine, a fpear, 
and a knife; and as-he is frequently. obliged to lie 
in ambufh feveral days, he carries a fupply of provi- 
vifions with him. His aim with the carabine feldom 
miffes ; butif the bear does not fall, the fportfman 
then attacks him with his fpear, often with great 
danger, and:not unfrequently with the:lofs of his own 
life. The rein-deer, argali or wild fheep, ‘foxes, ot- 
ters, of which there are few, beavers, fables, and 
hares, are hunted nearly in the famemanner. Some- 
times, in thefe excurfions, the Kamtfchadales fuffer 
extreme hunger, which they eagerly appeafe on the 
firft viétory, by eating the raw flefh of the animal. 
Their feafons be hunting depend on the time when 
the fur of the animal is in higheft perfe@ion. They 
have feafons alfo for fifhing. Salmon and trout are 
caught in June, herrings.in May, and the fea-calf 
at any time but in Winter, They moftly ufe com- 
‘+ mon nets, made of packthread, or a kind of harpoon, 
with which they are very dexterous, or bafkets placed 
in the fame manner as thofe for cels are in Eng- 
land. ' 
Horfes are not common in Kamtfchatka. There 
were fome at Bolcheretfk, under the care ‘of the 
coffacs, belonging to Goyernment, which were ufed 
in Summer for the conveyance of merchandize and 
other effects of the Crown, and for the ufe of tra- 
vellers. ‘To make up for this deficiency, they have 
dogs, about’ the fize of the Englith fhepherds’ dogs, 
in abundance. They ferye for all purpofes of draught 
or carriage, and are fed on offals, without trouble or 
expénce, In Summer, when there is little or no ufe 
for them, no care is beftowed on them, and they are 
fuffered to range over the country ; but on the ap- 
proach of Winter, though their labour is then to 
commence, they voluntarily return to their mafters 
with great punctuality. No individual, Ruffian or 
native, has fewer than five of thefe animals, which 
accompany 


10 : " ,FRAVELS FROM 


gecompany him to the forefts to cut wood, and, as 
eccafion ferves, draw his cffeéts and ;provifions, as 
well.as himfelf, They are harneffed to a fledge two 
and two, with a fingle one at the head by way of 
leader, who is trained for this purpofe, | and: exhibits 
wonderful,docility. The pair is fattened together by 


couples through the collars, which are frequently — 


covered with: bear's-fkin. | 

The form of the fledge is that of an oblong baf- 
ket, with the extremities elevated in a curve.» It is 
three. feet long and about one broad; the!body is of 
thin wood; the fides of open work, ornamented with 
differently coloured firaps. .' The feat of the driver is 
covered. with. bear’s-fkin, and raifed three feet from 
the ground, upon four legs, which diverge. tawards 
the bottom, and are faftcned to two parallel planks, 
three or four inches broad... Thefe planks arg not 
thick, -but are langer than the body.of the fledge, to 
which they ferve as fhpports as well, as fkates. For 
this purpofe they are guarded at bottom, in time of 
thaw, with three or four pieces; of whalebone of the 
fame breadth, and faftened to the {kates with thongs 
of leather, ‘The two ends,of the planks:in front 
bend upwards, to join a,crafs piece of wood, fo placed 
as to hold part of the baggage... The front of the 
fledge is further ornamented with floating reins, or 
fhreds of leather, which are-entirely ufelefs. The 
conduétor holds nothing in, his:hand byt a curved 
fick, with which he guides and ufes as a whip. At 
one end of.this {tick are fufpended iron rings, which 
ferve to ornainent.as well as to encourage the dogs by 
the noife which fhaking them makes from timé to 
tine. The other end is armed with an, iron point, 
in order to give it more. hold on the igeé.or fnow. 
There is no need of {peaking to dogs well, trained. 
Jt is fufficient to ftrike the {now with the ftick to 
guide them to the left, or the legs of the fledge to 
turn them to the right; to ftop, it is only to place 
me _ the 


the ftick 
dogs flac 
attentive 
pare a 
teit a 
eg of th 
The Kan 
exercife. 
managed 
fmal} pra 
coft M. « 
before he 
as to trav 
of fitting 
horfeback 
point, as 
and it is 
attitude. 
would ha 
rides. in 
at.which : 
fnow as w 
Before th 
quently fi 
get out 
made of t 
four feet | 
with leatt 
fkates, ar 
the fea-w 
The tr: 
having a | 
carriage c 


The infid 


fkin, and 


fea-wolf, 
The di! 
feps were 


KAMTSCHATKA: 1} 


the ftick between the fledge and the .fnow ; if the 
dogs flacken their pace, or become carelefs and in- 
attentive to the fignals or to the voice, the ftick is 
thrown at them; the recovery of it requires the 
greateft addrefs, on account of the rapidity, and is 
one of the principal proofs of fkill in the conductor. 
The .Kamtfchadales are wonderfully adroit at this 
exercife. In general, the dexterity with which they 
managed their fledges was aftonifhing. It requires no 
{mal} practice for a ftranger to ride: in them ; and it 
coft M. de Lefleps many overturns, and many days, 
before he could habituate himfelf to the motion, fo 
as to travel with perfect fafety. The common way 
of fitting in a fledge is fideways, like a lady on 
horfeback. You may alfo fit afiride ; but the great 
point, as a grace, is to be able to ftand on one leg; 
and it is worth feeing thofe that are expert in ‘this 
attitude. As foon as M. de Leffeps could drive, he 
would have no other carriage, but frequently took 
rides in his fledge, and fometimes went hunting ; 
at.which fport, when he had learned to walk on t 
fnow as well as to drive, he became very’ fuccefsful. 
Before the fnow is fufficiently frozen, the fledge fre- 
quently finks into it, and then you are obliged to 
get out and walk; for which purpofe, rackets 
made of thin board, fix or cight inches wide, and 
four feet long, are faftened to the foles of your feet 
with leather thongs ; the front of them turn up like 
fkates, and the bottom is covered with the fkin of 
the fea-wolf, or rein-deer. | 

The travelling fledge differs from the former, by 
having a kind of clofe coach fixed to it. This is a 
carriage called verock in Ruffia, where it is common. 
Thé infide of M. de Lefieps’ was lined with bear’s 
fkin, and the outfide covered with the fkin of the 
fea-wolf, | 

The difeafes found in Kamtfchatka by M. de Lef- 
feps were the fmall-pox, or rather the rémains of it, 

as 


12 TRAVELS FROM 


as it had only made its appearance in the years 176; 
and 1768, when it was introduced by a failor belong. 
‘ing to a Ruffian veffel bound to the eaftern iflands. 
It was then very fatal, and, what is ‘very ‘extraordi. 
nary, has not beén known fince. In the year i720 it 
broke out in the northern part of Kamtichatka, but 
did not reach fo far as the peninful:. The venereal 
difeafe was there, and though feldom cured, it /hap- 
pily was not common. ‘The feurvy was but: feldom 
feen, but confumptions were frequent; and boils, tu- 
mours; abfceffes, and wens, were very common. The 
only cure for thefe was incifion or extirpation, which 
was performed with a‘knife, and fometimes a fharp 
flone. By this we may judge that the art of furgery 
was not far advanced ; the progrefs of medicine had 
not been greater. Formerly forcery prevailed, and 
‘empirics, or pretended magicians, called chamans, 
lived upon the credulity of the innocent Kamfcha- 
dales, But the number of victims greatly exceeding 
that of recovered» patients, the impofture was difco- 
vered, and the chaman funk into difrepute and obli. 
vion. It would be well. if the Englifh would open 
their eyes in this refpect, nor fuffer themfelves to be 
any longer abufed by the grofs ignerance and impu- 
dence of noftrum-mongers, who are fhamefully al- 
lowed to infeft the metropolis, and almoft every part 
of the kingdom. ‘The Kamtfchatdales had one gene- 
ral remedy in great repute for almoft all difeafes, 
which was a root called bear’s-root, fteeped in brandy. 
The bear having been feen to eat and to roll upon 
this herb when wounded, it was fuppofed to poffefs 
fome healing quality, but of this M. de Lefleps had 
no opportunity of making experiment. 

The women of Kamtfchatka feldom have more 
than ten children, and very rarely any after the age of 
forty. They give fuck, in point of time, as whim 
directs; and there were inftances of children being 
nourifhed by the brealt till they were four or five 
years 


years old. 


men’s ftre 
nor the 
Ruffians. 
The C 
by the R 
were no © 
tized, anc 
on them I 
to be una 
but rathe 
ther” good 
thought c 
which de 
attributes 
opportuni 
may not | 
to fee-a K 
The qual 
great, no 
are all un 
at Nijene 
bifhop of 
ferred, an 
They | 
fchatka ; 
Vercknei 
may be a 
Koriacs. 
iflands, < 
the villas 
Koriaki, 
retik. ‘I 
oftrogs:d 
the Kuri 
twenty C 
or rector 
about ei 


767 
D ng- 
nds, 
brdi- 
2 it 

but 
real 


ap- 
om 
. tue 
The 
hich 
Narp 
gery 
had 
and 
ans, 
cha- 
din 
tan 
obli- 
pen 
o be 
ypu. 
r al. 
part 
ene- 
afes, 
andy. 
pon 
flefs 
had 


10re 
e of 
him 
ing 
five 
ears 


KAMTSCHATKA. 13 


years ‘old... Hence M. de Lefleps judges of the wo- 


men’s ftrength of EE neither they 
nor the men -were obferved to live longer than the 
Rufhans. 

The Chriftian religion had been introduced here 
by the Ruffians, but the inhabitants of this peninfula 
were no otherwife Chriftians than having: been bap- 
tized, and were far from fulfilling the duties impofed 
on them by that facrament. They feemed, indeed, 
to be unacquainted withthe rudiments of Chriftianity, 
but rather followed the: irapulfe ofinclination;: whe- 
ther good or bad. Religion appeared only:to be 
thought of from motives of convenience or interet; 
which defect in point of inftruétion, M. de Lefleps 
attributes to the ignorance of the:priefts, who have no 
opportunity of profound, ftudy ; thoughthis, perhaps, 
may not be thought neceflary, as it is not uncommon 
to fee-a Kamt{chatdale exercifing that dignified office. 
The qualifications of the clergy, therefore, cannot be 
great, nor their examination for orders fevere.. They 
are all under the authority of a high prieft, refident 
at Nijenei, who is himfelf fubordinate to the Arch- 
bifhop of Irkoutfk, by whom alone ordination is cen- 
ferred, and from whom every ‘appointment iffues. 

They reckon eight principal churches in Kamt- 
fchatka; Paratounka, Bolcheretfk, Jehinfk, Tiguil, 
Vercknei, Klutcheftfkaia, and two at Nijenei: to thefe 
may be added that at Ingiga, in the country of the 
Keriacs. Seven oftrogs, or villages, with the Kuriles 
iflands, compofe the diftriét or parifh of Paratounka,; 
the village of this name, Saint Peter and Saint Paul, 
Koriaki, Natchikin, Apatchin, Malkin, and Bolche- 
retfk. The number of parifhioners contained in thefe 
oftrogs does not exceed four hundred ; and taking in 
the Kuriles iflands, they compute fix hundred and 
twenty Chriftians. The Emprefs allows the curate 
or rector of Paratounka a falary of eighty roubles, 
about eighteen pounds fterling, and twenty oud 
ë equa 


14 TRAVELS FROM 


equal to thirty-three: pounds,: of rye flour. He has 
therefore no tythes, but receives alms, and other 
emoluments attached to his church, that is to fay, 
furplice fees, which are demanded according to the 
abilities of the parifhioners. | Ae à 
The only impoft to which the Kamtfchatdales are 
fubject, is an annual tribute paid to Ruffia in. furs, 
Every head of a family is obliged to furnith for himfelf, 
and for each of his children, a certain quantity of 
fkins, equivalent to the amount of his impofition, 
This method of paying a poll-tax muft produce a 
large revenue to the crown, judging only by the num. 
ber of fables fupplied from this province, which is 
eftimated:at more than four thoufand. The toyon, 
or magiftrate of each oftrog, gathers the impofts, 
which he remits immediately to the treafurer of the 
Crown ; firft giving to every Kamfchatdale a receipt 
for the amount of his capitation, who takes care to 
mark every fkin he delivers with a feal, or fome other 
token. : ast 

The: current coins are a piece of gold called an im. 
perial, worth ten roubles, a rouble, and a half rouble ; 
a very few filver coins of lefs value, but neither cop. 
per nor paper money are known here. You find a 
great quantity of old filver coins in the time of Peter I. 
Catherine I. and ‘Elizabeth, of which a branch of 
commerce might be made, as the filver is purer and 
more valuable than the common money. _ . 

The pay of the foldiers or coffacs is fifteen roubles 
a year. ‘The officers, on account of their being fent 
to fo diftant a country, receive a double pay. 

Since the year 1784, when the department of 
Kamtfchatka was re-united to that of Okotfk, the 
chiefs and officers of the different oftrogs in that pe- 
ninfula have been under the order of the commandant 
of Okotfk, and fubjeét to the judicial decifions of that 
town; all of whom again are fubordinate to the gover- 
_ nor-general refiding at Irkoutfk, The officer com- 

| manding 


manding : 
fchatka, w 
ment of NV 
No repd 
different o 
periors, w 
ther than ! 
neceflary 
nick, an i 
to vifit . the 
year, to fes 
among the 
cuftoms o 
It was in t 
M. Schma 
feps. Th 
as in Eng 
teftamenta 
fcrupuloufl 
among the 
liance wit 
quent mar 
the end of 
The pu 
fchatka, a 
prefs. Fo 
the natives 
now entire 
ficient eith 
M. de L 
the Kamtfc 
tural. Th 
to every of 
other. 
Novemb 
of the cold 
frequent te 
vail in the 


4 


KAMTSCHATKA, — 19 


manding at Bolcheretfk, once the capital of Kamt< 
fchatka, was now merely a ferjeant, under the appoint 
ment of M. Kaflof.... : Fi. Las doll 

No report was made by the commandants .of the 
different oftrogs, nor by inferiot officers to their fu- 
periors, whofe authority did not extend feparately far- 
ther than their. own peculiar diftriéts ; which made it 
neceflary for the Emprefs to appoint a capitan-ifprau- 
nick, an infpector-general, whofe bufinefs it fhould be 
to vifit.the Kamtfchadale towns and villages every 
year, to fee that good order and peace was maintained 
among them ; and above all, that the manners and 
cuftoms of Ruffia were obferved as much as poflible. 
It was in the difcharge of this important office that 
M. Schmaleff had ‘hitherto accompanied. M. de Lef= 
feps. The property of the Kamtichadales defcends, 
as in England, to the next heir; that is, in cafe of 
teftamentary failure, the rights of which are moft 
fcrupuloufly obferved.. Divorce is not permitted: 
among them. The Ruffians appear to court their al- 
liance with no other motive than hoping, that by fre« 
quent marriages the race of the natives may, before 
the end of the prefent generation, be obliterated. 

The punifhment of death is abolifhed in Kamt- 
fchatka, as in all the dominions belonging to the Em- 
prefs, Formerly the Ruflians, accufed of harrafling 
the natives, were condemned to the knowt, a torture: 
now entirely laid afide ; and whipping is thought fuf. 
ficient either for {mall or capitai offences. 

M. de Leffeps found great difficulty in pronouncing 
the Kamtfchadale language, which is hard and gut- 
tural. There is befides a dialect and accent peculiar 
to every oltrag, even to thofe villages neareft each 
other. eek ? ae t 

November was now arrived, when the intenfenefs 
of the cold, the extreme dépth of the fnow, and the 
frequent tempefts, or rather hurricanes, which pre. 
vail in the months of November, December, and Ja. 
nuary, 


16 TRAVELS FROM’ 


nuary, and which threaten the traveller. with the moft 
imminent danger, ftill-kept M. de Leffeps prifoner at 
Bolcheretfk; impatient as both he and M. Kafloff 
wereito continue their route. But the refleétion that 
it. would'not only be hazardous, but highly repre- 
henfible to truft fuch important difpatches as thofe of 
M. de Leffeps to the threats of fo rigorous a climate, 
ferved to pacify him, and inclined him ‘to yield to 
the intreaties and advice of M. Kafloff and of the of- 
ficers in his fuire. M. Kafloff gave him alfo a certi- 
ficate, juftifying his abode at Bolcheretfk, by detailing 
the caufes of its neceflity. The gales of wind, how- 
ever, having ceafed by the fifteenth of January, they 
then haftily prepared for their departure, which was 
fixed for the 25th of that month. 

They provided themfelves, as well as they were 
able, with brandy, beef, rye flour and oatmeal. A 
great number‘of loaves was made for them, of which 
a part was kept for the beginning of their journey, 
and the others were cut into thin flices, and dried 
in an oven like bifcuit. ‘The remainder of the flour 
was put into facks as a referve in cafe of neceffity. 

M. Kafloff had ordered as many dogs to be affem- 
bled as poflible, and they came in troops from the 
neighbouring villages. The only embarraffment was 
how to carry provifion for them, of which there was 
abundance. It had been determined to fet out at day- 
break, but the baggage was found fo confiderable, 
that, notwithflanding the multitude of hands employed 
in loading the fledges, it was night before they were 
announced as ready. No day had ever appeared fo 
long ; and fo vexed were they at the delay, that they 
would not wait till the next day, but flew to the 
fledges, and were out of Bolcheretfk in an inftant. 

. They fet off at feven o’clock by moon-light, which 
was rendered more vivid by the brilliancy of the 
fnow. It was a fcene really worth defcribing. Ima- 
gine then an immenfe cavalcade of thirty-five fledges, 


Apatchin 


exclufive | 


exclufive 
cheretfk, 


fledges, f 
fome wer 
of which 
rode a fe 
command 
nal from 
by about 
fpeed. 
that of 
interrupte 
fufed. 
and the je 
was who 
other to ¢ 
felves enc 
with env 
ftruggle 
turned, 2 
mours of 
dogs ftru 
courfe, a 
hallooing 
which ic 
ftand one 
In ord 
de Leffep 
common 
ing himf 
him, Fo 
de Lefler 
had been 
whofe at 
Comman 
which is 
Vou. | 


KAMTSCHATKA. yale 17 


exclufive of thofe belonging to the inhabitants of Bol- 
cheretfk, who had undertaken to‘fee.them as far as 
‘Apatchin. The greater part of thefe were common 
fledges, fuch as have been already defcribed; and 
fome were clofe carriages, called verocks or kibicks, 
of which kind M. de Leffeps’ was one. In the firft 
rode a ferjeant, named Kabechoff, charged with the 
command and guidance of the proceflion. On a fig- 
nal from him, away went the fledges in a line, drawn 
by about three hundred dogs of equal ardour and 
fpeed. M. de Leffeps’ verock had thirty-feven dogs, 
that of M. Kafloff forty-five, But foon the order was 
interrupted, the line was broken, and became con- 
fufed. A noble emulation animated the conduétors, 
and the journey refembled a perfe& chariot race. It 
was who could drive fafteft; no one would fuffer an- 
other to get before him, nor would the dogs them- 
felves endure fuch an affront. They preffed forward 
with envy, fought for the honour of precedence, the 
ftruggle became general, and the fledges were over- 
turned, at the rifk of being torn to pieces. The cla- 
mours of thofe who were overturned, the cries of 
dogs ftruggling, the yelping of fuch as kept up the 
courfe, and the loud and continued chattering and 
hallooirig of the guides, added ftill to the diforder, in 
which it was nearly impoflible to know or to under- 
ftand one another. 

In order to enjoy the tumult more at his eafe, M. 
de Leffeps quitted his own fledge, and mounted a 
common one; in which, befides the pleafure of driv- 
ing himfelf, he had that of feeing what pañled round 
him. Fortunately no accident happened to make M. 
de Leffeps repent his curiofity. ‘This embarraffment 
had been chiefly occafioned by the concourfe of people, 
whofe attachment induced them to accompany the 
Commandant, as has been obferved, to Apatchin, 
which is forty-four werfts, about twenty miles, from 

Vou. IL. (a) Bolcheretik, 


18 . TRAVELS FROM 


Bolcheretfk, and whither the whole company arrived 
about midnight. | 

A few moments after their arrival’ a tempeftuous 
wind.arofe, that would have incommoded them greatly 
on the roads It continued the remaining part of the 
night, and all the next day, fo as to put them under 
the neceffity of flaying at Apatchin. 

Here they exchanged the laft adieu with the inha- 
bitants of Bolcheretik, who exprefled great regret at 
parting with M, Kafloff, as well as great concern for 
the welfare of M. de Leffeps, at which he was the 
more furprized, thinking he had perceived that im- 
preffions had been made on them to the difadvantage 
of the French nation. Thefe impreffions he attributed 
to the treatment they had experienced from the fa- 
‘mous Beniowfky, a reputed Frenchman, who in 
the year 1769 ferved tn Poland under the colours 
of the confederates, and became extremely formi- 
dable to the Ruffians as well as to the Polonefe. 
‘Faken prifener at length, and banifhed to Kamt- 
fchatka, he found means of raifing a troop of exiles, 
‘with whom he proceeded to Bolcheretfk, where he is 
faid to have committed: feveral enormities. Of a 
charaéter fo extraordinary, no lefs than doubtful, it 
‘is not poffible, in a trac like the prefent, to give any 
notion, either with regard to praife. or cenfure. His 
hiftory is publithed, and is worth the infpedion of 
the. curious, at leaft in fome degree. 

The 29that day-light M; Schmaleff quicted M. de 
Lefleps, and fet off to ‘Tiguil, on the weftern coatt, 
to complete the vifit of his government. He had in 
view. alfo the procuring provifions for M. de Leffeps 
and his party, which he fent to them, and fome time 
after rejoined them. : 

Abnoft at the famé time, M: de Lefleps and M. 
Kafloff, with:a reduced retinue, l:ft Apatchin ; and 
after. going along the Bolchaia.reka for feveral hours, 


fometimes 


fometime 
of fteep : 
banks o 
about’ tw 
werfts dif 
ed to ft 
The villa 
{cribed, « 
balagans. 
traia, anc 

The fe 3 
expeditio 
entirely f 
cuit thro 
depth, a1 
were exc 
conftrain 
wards th 
from Ga 
to afford 
forty-five 

After ] 
toyon, the 
a diftanc 
plifhed ir 
way was 
and the { 
this, witl 
Leffeps t 
overthro 

The k 
Poufchin 
The onl; 
that the 
but only 
aperture 
order to 
the fmol 


KAMTSCHATKA. 19° 


fometimes through a foreft, and fometimes:at the foot | 
of fteep and barren mountains, which rife from the 
banks of that river, they croffed the Biftraia, and 
about’ two o'clock arrived at Malkin, fixty-four 
werfts diftant from Apatchin. Here they were oblig. 
ed to flop to reft the dogs, having no frefh ones. 
The village of Malkin. refembles thofe already de: 
{cribed, containing five or fix ifbas and about fifteen 
balagans. It is fituated on the border of the Bif- 
traia, and furrounded with high mountains. 

The following day they went on to Ganal, not fo: 
expeditioufly as-they had wifhed. The Biftraia was not 
entirely frozen, which obliged them to make a cir- 
cuit through woods, where the fnow being of a great 
depth, and foft, the dogs funk to their bellies, and 
were exceflively fatigued. They were thus once more 
conftrained to abandon their route, and to return to- 
wards the Biftraia, which they regained ten werfts 
from Ganal, and now found the ice fufficiently thick 
to afford them an eafy paflage to that oftrog, which is 
forty-five werfts from Maikin. 

After api an indifferent night at the houfe of the 
toyon, they fet forward before day-break for Poufchiné, 
a diftance ‘of ninety werfts, and which they accom- 
plifhed in fourteen hours ; but the latter part of the 
way was extremely painful; the road was not cleared, 
and the fledges funk two or three feet in the fnow ; 
this, with the frequency of the jolts, made M. de 
Leffeps think himfelf happy in efcaping with but one 
overthrow. | i 

The Kamtfchatka runs at the foot of this oftrog of 
Poufchiné, which is fomething larger than Ganal. 
The only thing M. de Lefleps remarked here was, 
that the ifbas, or winter dwellings, had no chimnevs, 
but only a hole in the roof, like the balagans. | This 
aperture is frequently clofed by means of a trap, in 
order to confine the heat; the confequence is, that 
the fmoke fpreads round the chamber, and feldom 

1 (8 2) having 


20: TRAVELS FROM 


having time:to éfcape thoroughly, the whole interior 
ia lined with foot, equally offenfive to the fight and 
fmell. This difguft is increafed. by the exhalation 
atifing from a difmal lamp, which ferves to light the 
whole building, and which is nothing more than a 
hollow flone, with a piece of linen rolled up for a 
wick, and filled with the greafe of the fea-wolf, or of 
other anima's. | 

The in! abitants of thefe wretched hovels are not 
lefs cilgufting. In one place is a group of women 
fhining with greafe, wallowing, on the ground on a 
heap of rags; othe:s fuckling their children, which 
are half naked, and bedaubed with filth from head to 
foot, or devouring with them fcr ps of :aw fifh, and 
fomctimes putrid. Others you fee in an undrefs 
equally dirty, lying upon bear’s-fkims, chattering all 
at once, or perhaps occupied in fome houfehold work, 
waiting the return of their hutbands. Happily,' the 
hov-fes of thé toyons were made as clean as poffible 
for the reception of M. Kafloff, who had always the 
ea of allowing M. de Lefleps to lodge with 

im. 

Very early the firft of February, they left Pouf- 
 chiné, where they had flept; and could travel 
only thirty four werfts. The farther they went 
the mo e they were obftruéted by the {now. M. de 
Leffeps’ two conductors had enough to do to keep 
the fleige upright, and to prevent its getting out of 
the road. They were alfo obliged to ute great efforts 


in encouraging th: dogs, who often ftopped, in fpite 


of the blows beftowed on them with as much profu- 
fion as addrefs. T: efe poor animals, whofe ftrength 
was ing: nceivable, had all the trouble in the world to 
difengage themfelves from the fnow, which covered 
them as faft as they fhook it off. Indeed, both guides 
and dogs hid a moft arduous tafk. The oftrog of 
Charom, the boundary of this day’s labour, is fituated 
on the river Kamtichatka. There they paffed the 

( night, 


fincere : 


‘M. iv 


night, : 
Kamfch 
and whi 
compare 
very cc 
houfes. 
try abor 
the inh 
tage. ‘1 
conftrué 
terior. | 
in a hot 

In thi 
nate Iva 
having : 
Saint Pe 
ted then 
been to 
them to 
‘arrival, ! 
ing gai’: 
paft fuff 


may not 
of him. 


criminal 
vereft a 


KAMTSCHATKA. 21 


night, and before break of day fet out for Vercknei- 
Kamfchatka, which is thir: y-five werfts from Chirsm, 
and which they reached in feven hours.  Vercknei, 
compared to the other villages they Had fen, was 
very confiderable. It contained above a hundred 
houfes. Its fituation was commodious, an! the coun- 
try about it pleafant. The foil was very good, and 


the inhabitants were beginning to turn it to advan- 


tage. * Here was a church built of wood, not badly 


conftraéted, though the infide did not equal the ex- 


terior.’ A ferjeant, who held the command, dwelt 
in a houfe belonging to Government. ~~" 

In this village was alfo the refidence of the unfor- 
nate Ivafchkin, who has already been mentioned as 
having accompanied M. de Lefleps and his party from 
Saint Peterand Saint Paul, and who had riow only quit- 
ted them to advance to Vercknei, where his firft care had 
been to have one of his oxen killed, which he begged 
them to accept, as a token of gratitude. “Upon their 
‘arrival, they went to his houfe, and found hin: drink. 
ing gai'y with fome of his neighbours.” His joy was 
fincere and open, like that of a man not fenfible of 
paft fufferings, nor tired of his prefent fituation. It 
may not be’ uninterefting to give fome little account 
of him. . abies a 
"M. Ivafchkin had not attained his twentieth year, 
when the’ Emprefs Elizabeth made him a ferjeant of 
cher guard of Préobrajenfkoi. He enjoyed ape 
fome degree of credit at Court, and the free accefs 
‘which his polt gave him to his Sovereign opened a 
door to his ambition ; when all at once, he was not 
‘only difgraced, and compelled to abandon the flatter- 
ing hopes his fancy had fuggefted, but he had the far- 
ther affliction of being treated as one of thé greateft 
criminals: he received the knout, which is the fe- 
vereft and moft infamous punifhment in Ruffia; he 
had his ‘noftrils flit, and was banifhed for life to 
Kamtfchatka. © ? 

| (B 3) The 


22 TRAVELS FROM 


: “The extreme rigour of his fufferings for more than 
twenty years is well known from the reports of the 
Englifh; and he doubtlefs would have perifhed from 
hunger, mifery, or defpair, but for the ftrength of his 
mind and conftitution. The necellity of providing 
fubfiftence,, forced him involuntarily to become natu- 
ralized amongft the Kamtfchatdales, and , to adopt 
their manner. of living. He was clothed like them, 

and by hunting and fifhing not only abundantly fa- 
” tisfed his own wants, but had a fuperfluity to fell, 
fufficient to gain him many.comforts. The Ruffians 
were ignorant of the caufe of fo fevere a punifhment, 
fometimes attributing it to a mifunderftanding, or to 
fome indifcreet words he might have uttered, for they 
did not, know how to impute a crime to him. 

It fhould appear that the pretended enormity of his 
crime had been forgiven, by its having been propafed 
to change the place of his exiles and to fend him to 
Yakoutfk, a village that offered more refources of ufe 
as well as amufement. : But this unhappy, man, who 
was now ‘between fixty and fixty-five years, of age, 
refufed to profit by fuch, indulgence, being unwilling, 
as he faid, to make a farther fhow. of the jhideous 


marks of his difgrace, or to blufh a fecond time for. 


the horrid punifhment to which he had fubmitted. 
He chofe rather to continue . with the Kamt{chadales, 
having no other defire than to pals his few remaining 
days in quiet, amongft thofe who knew his integrity, 
and where he was able to retain till death that general 
efteem and, friendfhip which he had hitherto enjoyed 
with fo juft a title. ) 
_. The Count de la Péroufe, from the relation of the 
Englifh; had a defire to fee this unfortunate gentle- 
man; and, became infpired, from the firft moment, 
with the moft lively intereft for him. .,He. received 
him on board his hip and at his table, nor.did the 
humanity, of this commander, end_ with, ‘compaflionat- 
ing the misfortunes of M. Ivafchkin ; he took every 
; means 


means ¢ 
brances « 
the Engl 
feel for 

From 
M. de L 
on for th 
of Milko 
way, the 
fades, an 
bited by 
ployed i 
account, 
to the C 
form a ft 
gation of] 
hundred 
T{chigatc 
a mill co 
ufelefs, o 
country \ 
Leffeps, : 
pectation, 

At Mil 
a diftin& 
in 1743, 
Siberia, ; 
purpofe « 
the hopes 
to the fa 
rable flott 
tirely fru 
Govern 
when one 
gence of 
and cattl 
them, I 
to pay, r 


KAMTSCHATKA. 23 
means of affuaging them, by leaving many remem- 
brances of his abode there, fuch as would prove that 
the Englifh were not the only ftrangers who could 
feel for his unhappy lot. 

From Vercknei, where their ftay was very fhort, 
M. de Lefleps and his companion determined to go 
on for the night to Milkovaia-Derwna, or the village 
of Milkoff, which was diftant fifteen werfts,. On their 
way, they pafled a large field, furrounded with pali- 
fades, and farther on, a zaimka, or hamlet, inha- 
bited by coffacs, or Ruffian foldiers, who were em« 
ployed in the cultivation of the land on Government 
account. They had four and twenty: horfes belonging 
to the Crown, which ferved for labour as well as to 
form a ftud eftablifhed in this place, for the propa 
gation of this ufeful and fcarce animal. About five 
hundred yards from this hamlet, which was called 
Tfchigatchi, upon an arm of the Kamtfchatka, was 
a mill conftruéted of wood, but of no fize, and now 
ufelefs, on account of the froft. The foil of the 
country was good; and the coflacs informed M. de 
Leffeps, that the laft harveft had. exceeded their ex- 
pectation, two pouds of corn having produced ten. 

At Milkoff M. de Lefleps was furprized by finding 
a diftin& colony of peafants, which had been felected, 
in 1743, from among the hufbandmen of Ruffia and 
Siberia, and had been fent into this country for the 
purpofe of making experiments in agriculture, with 
the hopes of inducing the natives to turn their minds 
to the fame neceflary employment. But. the infupe- 
rable floth and indolence inherent in Kamtfchatka, en- 
tirely fruftrated this wife and benevolent intention of 
Government; and this was the more deplorable, 
when one could not but perceive the care and dili- 
gence of thefe colonifts, apparent in their habitations 
and cattle, and the air of content that reigned among 
them, Each man having no more than a capitation 
to pay, reaped in abundance the fruits of his exer- 

1e | (3 4) tions, 


24 TRAVELS FROM 


exertions, from a fertile foilandplentifulharveft, Their 
chief was a Starofte, appointed by admininiftration, 
and chofen from among the old men of the village, 
His charge was a general fuperintendance, to ftimu- 
late negligence, and to encourage activity and zeal. 
M. de Leffeps being defirous of paffing a day with 
the Baron of Steinheil, formerly infpector-general of 
Kamtfchatka, and who lived at Machoure, left Mil- 
koff four and twenty hours before M. -Kafloff, that 
he might not delay him; and taking a common 
fledge, for expedition fake, he paffed through the 
village of Kirgan, and at two in the afternoon entered 
that of Machouie, thirty-feven werfts farther, not 
without having fuffered feverely from the cold, and 
from the great fatigue of managing the fledge him- 
felf. - His drefs on this occafion merits defcription, 
and muft be given in his own words. "| 
‘ Ufually he wore but one fimple parque or frock of 
deer-fkin, dnd a fur cap, which occafionally covered 
his ears and a part of his cheeks. When the cold be- 
came mote piercing, he added two kouklanki, a kind 
of larger frock, and made of thicker fkin. ' The hair 
of one of thefe was infide, of the other outwards. In 
exceffive cold, he put over all thefe a third kouklanki, 
thicker ftiil, made of dog-fkin, the hairy fide of which 
is always within, and the exterior, or fmooth fice, 
painted red. To the front of thefe kouklankis was 
fixed a fort of bib to defend the face from the wind. 
Behind, each of them had a hood, lined with fur, 
which hung upon his fhoulders; or often, all the 
three, one in another, were drawn over his cap. His 
neck was guarded by a cravat of fable, or the tail of 
a fox, called’ ocheinik, and his chin by a band of 
fable alfo, faftened to the top of the head. The fore- 
head, being a part very fufceptible of cold; was co- 
vered with a fillet of otter-fkin or fable, under the cap. 
His fur breeches made him hotter than all the reft of 
his drefs, complicated as it was. He had double 
| gaters 


. dinary 


aters of 

amfchat 
baffi or b 
of tonnc 
property 
tions, aft 
came wet 
trating, 
fledge, h 
exchange 
fur ftoc 
ounti. 
fides wit 
frozen i 


however, 
for fever 
A few 
vered a 
fmoke, | 
with a w 
fchatka. 
very flen 
Machou 
the even 
Befor 
trog of | 
in the pe 
to twent 
All th 
men, ar 
they hay 
priefts, ¢ 
thing bu 
they reg 
worfhip 
perately 
abftain 
making 


KAMTSCHATKA. 25 


aters of deer-fkin, with hair on both fides, called, in 
Kamfchatka tchigi. His legs were then put into tor- 
baffi or boots of deer-fkin, furnifhed infide with foles 
of tonnchitcha, a very foft herb, or grafs, that has the 
property of retaining heat. In fpite of thefe precau- 
tions, after travelling two or three hours, his feet be. 
came wet from perfpiration, or by the fnow’s pene- 
trating, fo that if he ftood ftill a moment in the 
fledge, he perceived them frozen. In the evening he 
exchanged thefe gaters, or fpatterdafhes, for a pair of 
fur ftockings, made of deer-fkin ‘or argali, called 
ounti. | With all this care, and covering his face be- 
fides with a handkerchief, M. de Lefleps’ cheeks were 
frozen in half an hour, fo as to drive him to the or. 
. dinary method of rubbing them with fnow, which, 

however, did not prevent his feeling éxquifite pain 
for feveral days. | rea bake] / i 

A few werlts from Kirgan, M.de Leffeps difco- 
vered a volcano, which poured out a column of thick 
fmoke, but no flame. He met alfo, near Machoure, 
with a wood of fir trees, the firft he had feen in Kam- 
fchatka. They were tolerably bufhy and ftraight, but 
very flender. The whole day of the 4th he pañled at 
Machoure with M: Steinheil, and was joined there in 
the evening by M. Kaflof. … . be 

Before the ravages made by the fmall-pox, the of- 
trog of Machoure was one of the moft confiderable 
in the peninfula, but this had reduced the inhabitants 
to twenty families. 

Allthe Kamtfchadales of this village, men and wo- 
men, are chamans, or believers in forcery. Hence 
they have an utter averfion to the popes, or Ruffian 
priefts, confidering them as perfons who meditate no- 
thing but the extinction of idolatry; on which account 
they regard them as enemies. ‘They offer a fecret 
worfhip to their god Koutka, and addrefs him intem- 
perately upon every occafion.  Before:the chace they 
abftain from wathing, and moft cautioufly avoid 
making any fign of the crofs, which they app 

wou 


26 TRAVELS FROM 
mould be an effectual: bar, to, their taking any thing, 
Koutka; however, is invoked, and an offering made 
to him: of the firft animal that is caught, perfuaded 
that by this act of devotion fuccefs is infured. To this 
deity; their new-born children aré confecrated, and 
are thus deftined, from: the cradle, to become cha. 
mans.: The veneration, indeed, which inthis village 
is held for necromancers,and the extravagancies with 
which thefe perfons :feed the credulity of their coun- 
trymen, is not to be conceived. It is true, at prefent, 
they do not:profefs their art openly.. Their habits 
ar¢ no longer decorated ;with myfterious rings, nor 
other fymbolical figures of metal, which ftunned one 
with their: jingle upon every. motion of the body. 
_ They-have renounced: alfo a kind of kettle, called 
douben, and ftill in ufe iat Yakoutfk, on which they 
beat in their pretended enchantments, or to announce 
théir arrival. ‘In fhort all’ magical inftruments are 
abandoned. | 

With regard to the ceremonies of their:affemblies, 
which they fu: hold privately, figure to. yourfelf a 
circle of fpetators, fixed with ftupid attention upon 
the magician or forcerefs, who duddenly begins to 
fing, or rather to utter, piercing. notes without. mea. 
fure or fignification. At length; the obedient crowd 
join in the faihe tone, andform:a:concert imfupport- 
ably diflonant. ‘The chaman is gradually animated, 
and begins to dance to the confufed accents of the au- 
ditory, who become exhaufted by.their exceflive fer. 
vour.and admiration ; whilft the dance grows more 
lively, according to the degree:of the prophetic fpirit 
with: which this minifter of the, god Koutka pretends 
to be endued,, Now, like the Débit pricitefs on the 
tripod, he rolls his hagard furious eyes; all his mo- 
tions are convulfed, his mouth is drawn awry, and 
his limbs ftiffen. In fhort, there! is no contortion nor 
grimace which: he does not invent and execute, to the 
great delight of the by-ftanders, After playing cu 
ta tricks 


tricks. for 
he beco 
nor 'trani 
full of + 
going to 
feize the 
tion of t] 
length, it 
the mou 
ever con 
as the € 
accompa 
violent 
tidings 
his gelt 
M, de 
reafon, 
fect of Q 
hibit an 
if not in 
who ofte 
encies, t 
the-nam 
may be 
tention 
regulari 
mented 
with the 
AtN 
truth of 
from a! 
fent alo 
fituatiot 
was the 
fchatka 
of his j 
on the 
numbet 


thing, 
made 
uaded 
‘o this 
» and 
e cha. 
illage 
s with 
coun- 
efent, 
habits 
> nor 
d one 
body. 
called 
they 
Junce 
s are 


blies, 
(elf a 
upon 
ns to 
mea - 
rowd 
port. 
ated, 
e au- 
> fer- 
more 
pirit 
ends 
1 the 
mo- 
and 
nor 

» the 

hefe 

ivks 


KAMTSCHATKA. 27 


tricks. fome time, fuddenly he ftops, as: if infpired;: 
he becomes perfectly calm, and; has no longer fury 
nor tran{port ; it is the folemn recolle€tion of a man, | 
full of the God who directs him, and who is now: - 
going to fpeak by his voice. Surprize and trembling: 
feize the affembly, who are at once filent, in expetta- 

tion of the wonders about to be revealed to them. At 
length, incoherent words.are heard, at intervals, fron 

the mouth of this felf-made prophet, who utters what 
ever comes into his: head, .and all which: is received 
as the effeét of. infpiration.. ‘Commonly the orator 
accompanies his jargon with a flood of tears, or with 
violent fits of laughter; according to the good or bad, 
tidings he has to +announce, whilft the expreffion of 
his geftures vary conformably to his fenfations. 

M. de Leffeps imagines, not without fome fhow: of 
reafon, fome analogy between the chamans and the 
fect of Quakers; who, in their conventicles, often ex- 
hibit an unmeaning filence, bordering upon ftupidity, 
if not infanity ; who have their convuliive ftarts, and 
who often utter the wildeft abfurdities and inconfift- 
encies, to which they do not fcruple profanely to affix 
the-name of Divine :infpiration. In extenuation, it 
may be faid, no doubt with great truth, that the in. 
tention of the latter is ftriétly moral,.as the general 
regularity of their lives evinces. And it is to be la- 
mented that they do not mingle moreapparent reafon 
with their facred profeffions. Hibs 

At Machoure our travellers were confirmed in the 
truth of a report which M. Kafloff had: betore received 
from an engineer, named Bogenoff, who. had been 
fent along the river of Pengina, to make choice of a 
fituation for a town, and-to draw the plan of it.. He 
was then to follow the weftern coaft of the Kamt- 
fchatka as far as Tiguil, and to make :an exact chart 
of his journey. On his arrival at Kaminoi, a village 
on the borders of Pengina river, he met with a great 
number of rebel Koriaés armed, who endeavoured to 

prevent 


28 TRAVELS FROM 

prevent the completion of his miffiôn. Reports at 
Machoure added, that they were fix hundred ftrong, 
and that probably they would not fuffer M. de Left: 
feps to continue his route. His fears of fo unfortunate 
a delay were, however, foon diffipated by the arrival 
of an exprefs meffenger to M. Kafloff, who had en. 
countered no obftacle, and ‘who affured them every 
thing was quiet, and that no impediment was to be 
dreaded. On the sth, therefore, they quitted Ma. 
choure, and travelling fixty-fix werfts upon the Kamt- 
fchatka, the ice of which was perfe&ly fmooth and 
folid, they reached Chapina by fun-fet, and the next 
day got to Volbatchina, a village upon the Kamit. 
fchatka, forty-four werfts from Chapina. Upon a 
heath at fome diftance from Tolbatchina, they ob- 
ferved three volcanos iffuing fmoke only. :: 

At this village, M. de Leffeps having a ftrong de- 
fire of vifiting Nijenei-Kamtfchatka, the capital of the 
peninfula, quitted M. Kafloff, promifing to rejoin 
him at Yelofki ; and travelling all night, arrived at 
day-break at Kofirefski, a diftance of fixty-fix werfts. 
Here he made no ftay, but to repair a trifling acci- 
dent to his fledge, and went on to Ouchkoff; whence, 
fometimes upon the Kamtfchatka,.and fometimes tra- 
verfing extenfive heaths, he paffed the village of Kré- 
ftoff;. and inftead of going to Khartchina, which was 
M. Kaflotl’s route to Yelofki, took the road to Klu- 
cheftfkaia, diftant from Kreftoff thirty werfts, and got 
there at the fall of night. : os $ 
. The inhabitants of Klutchefskaia were all Siberian 
peafants, from the neighbourhood of the Lena, and 
fent into this country, fifty years back, to cultivate 
the lands. The number of males did not exceed fifty, 
the fmall-pox having been very fatal among them. 


hefe labourers did not appear lefs happy than thofe : 


near Vercknei-Kamtfchatka. Their harveft had been 
good, and they ‘had feveral horfes, fome of which 
belonged to the Crown. The oftrog is tolerably 
large, 


Jarge; fe 
hundred 
which la 
the Ru 
ter conft 
Leffeps 
ziness 
lage, an 
during 
the hou 
Four 
hamlet 
belong 
The i 
would 
and lea 
8th, he 
night, 
tance of 
to Tche 
fatisfact 
which v 
It fee 
fteeples. 
in a bal 
round i 
were fai 
fmall, : 
of bein 
quent | 
one in 
the bou 
ter of t 
with p: 
clofes t 
A fenti 
houfe ¢ 


rts at 
rong, 
Lef. 
unate 
rrival 
é CMe 
every 


KAMTSCHATKAS 29 
Jarge; feparated into two parts, at a diftance of four 
hundred yards. It extends from weft to eaft, towards 
which latter part ftands the church, built of wood, in 
the Ruffian tafte, ‘The houfes were, in general, bets 
ter conftructed, and much cleaner than any M. de 
Leffeps had yet feen, and there were fpacious maga: 
zines. The Kamtfchatka runs at the foot of the vil- 
lage, and in that {pot is never te frozen. But 
during Summer, it frequently overflows even into 
the houfes, though they are placed on an eminence. 

Four werfts to the eaftward of the church is a {mall 
hamlet of coffacs, or foldier-labourers, whofe harveits 
belong to Government. news . 

The impatience of M. de Leffeps to fee Nijenei, 
would not fuffer him to ftay long at Klutchefskaia 3 
and leaving it, therefore, the fame evening of the 
8th, he paffed through Kamini in the middle of the 
night, and before day-light was at Kamokoff, a difs 
tance of forty werfts. ‘Twenty-two more carried him 
to Tchokofskoi or Tchoka, and by noon he had the 
fatisfaction of entering Nijeini, the appearance of 
which was neither ftriking nor agreeable. . 

It feemed a mere clutter of houfes, topped by three 
fteeples, fituated upon the border of the Kamtfchatka, 
in a bafon formed by a chain of mountains rifing 
round it, but at fome diftance. All the houfes, which 
were faid to be a hundred and fifty, were of wood, 
fmall, without’ tafte, and had then the difadvantage 
of being buried in heaps of {now made by the fre- 
quent hurricanes. There were two ill built churches ; 
one in the town, with two fteeples ; the other within 
the boundary of the fort, which is nearly in the cen- 
ter of the town, and is a tolerably large fquare, fenced 
with palifades. Befides the church, the fquare en. 
clofes the magazines, the arfenal, and guard-houfe, 
A fentinel guards the entrance day and night. The 
houfe of Major Orleankoff, the commandant, is near 

the 


80 TRAVELS FROM 
the fortrefs, and, in:point of fize and tafte, is no bet. 
ter than any other. 

M. de heffeps met here with another: miferable 
exile, named Snafidoff, who had undergone the fame 
punifhment as Ivafchkin, and, like him, had been ba. 
nifhed to Kamtfchatka fince the year 1744. 

The moment of M. de Leffeps’ atrival, Major 
Orleankoff fent an officer to wait on him, who was 
followed by many of the principal officers of the 
town, each in turn offering him his fervices. On 
returning thefe civilities, he found the Commandant 
bufy in preparing a feaft he was to give the next day, 
on the occafion of a marriage between ‘a Polonefe in 
the Ruffian fervice and the niece of the Protopope, 
or Archbifhop. ! 

+ To this ceremony M. de Leffeps was of courfe in- 
_ Vited, and was particularly ftruck with the folemnity 
of it. . Diftinétion of rank was obferved with the 
moft fcrupulous delicacy, and a certain air of*cén- 
ftraint ran through all the compliments and common 
civilities, that threatened more wearifomenefs than 
pleafantry. The repaft was extremely magnificent 
for the country. Befides other difhes, it confifted of 
a variety of foups, accompanied with cold meat, of 
which they eat a great quantity. Roaft. meat and 
paftry furnifhed a fecond courfe.’ But there was more 
appearance of profufion than of fenfuality. The li- 
quors were compofed of various indigenous fruits, 
boiled up and mixed with ‘French brandy : but the 
brandy of the country, made of the Slatkaia-trava, or 


{weet herb, was preferred, and frequently handed 


round. It had an agreeable aromatic flavour, and 
they were more accuftomed to it, as thinking it lefs 
unwholefome than that extraëted from corn. The 
guefts infenfibly fell into good humour. Reafon could 
not long withitand the vapours of fo intoxicating a 
beverage, and foon the groifeft jollity prevailed. ‘To 


this 


this noif 
well reg 
danced 
The ball 
fire-work 
off himfe 
fatisfacto 
part of t 
ment, we 
fixed wit 
explofion 
amufing; 
fures of t 
M. de Le 
gave an 
fire-work 
Nijenei, v 
white bee 
a truly v 
lively and 
and affect 

There : 
belongs t! 
takes cog 
fiding me 
under th 
of the to 
ferved, a 
give an a 
mandant 

A circ 
Lefleps, 2 
who, dui 
ther fron 
ployed ‘ir 

One a 
barked, : 
country, 


KAMTSCHATKA. 31 


this noify and fplendid feaft fucceeded a ball tolerably 
well regulated. The company: was very gay, and 
danced Ruffian and: Polifh dances tillthe evening. 
The ball was then followed by an exceedingly pretty 
fire-work, made by M: Orléankoff, and which he let 
off himfelf. It was not confiderable, but perfectly 
fatisfactory. The furprife and rapture of the greater 
part of the {pectators, at this part of the entertain- 
ment, was inconceivable. They became like ftatues, 
fixed with admiration, and {creamed in chorus at every 
explofion. Their regret, when it was over, was as 
amufing; and they went away lamenting thatthe plea- 
fures of the day were at an end. The day following 
M. de Leffeps was invited to the Archbifhop’s, who 
gave an entertainment like the paft, excepting the 
fire-work. The Archbifhop, whofe refidence is at 
Nijenei, was an old man, {till brifk enough. A large 
white bez: 1 defcended upon his breaft, and gave him 
a truly venerable appearance. His converfation was 
lively and pleafant, calculated to gain him the refpect 
and affection of his people. d' 

There are two tribunals at Nijeneï, to one of which 
belongs the bufinefs of the adminiftration, the other 
takes cognizance of all mercantile difputes. The pre- 
fiding magiftrate is a fort of Burgo-mafter, who aéts 
under the orders of the Gorodnitch or Commandant 
of the town. Both thefe jurifdiétions, it has been ob- 
ferved, are fubordinate to the tribunal at Okotfk, and 
give an account of all their tranfaétions to the Com- 
mandant of that town. : 

A circumftance that particularly interefted M. de 
Lefleps, at Nijenei, was his meeting with nine Japanefe, 
who, during the laft fummer, had been: brought 'thi- 
ther from the ‘Aléutieñne Ifles in a Ruffian fhip em- 
ployed'in the trade 6fotter-fkins. a 

One of thefe Japanefe told him, that he had em- 
barked, with his companions, in a veffel of their own 
country, forthe moft fouttiward of the Kurile Hlands,. 
with 


32 TRAVELS FROM 


with a view of trading with the inhabitants: They 
followed the coaft, and:were not very far, from it, 
when they were overtaken by a violent gale of wind, 
which carried them to a great diltance, entirély out 
of their knowledge. According to his account; which 
M. de Leffeps thought fufpicious, they were beating 
about at ‘fea nearly fix months without feeing land. 
At length the Aléutienne Ifles made their appearance ; 
and, in a tranfport of joy, they refolved to make for 
them, totally unconfcious whither they were going. 
They accordingly caft anchor near thofe iflands, and 
a boat conveyed them on fhore. They there found 
Roflians, who offered to go with them to affift in 
unlading the veffel, and to place it in fafety. Either 
from diftruft, or really thinking that the next day 
would be time enough, the Japanefe rejected their 
offer. They foon, however, repented their negli: 
gence: that very night the wind became fo violent, 
as to drive the fhip afhore. This was not perceived 
till day-light, when they had-great difficulty to fave 
the fmalleft part of the cargo, and fome remains of 
the veffel, which’ had been built entirely of cedar. 
The Ruffians, who had already received them fo kind- 
ly, ufed'every means to make them forget their lofs. 
They confoled them to the utmoft of their power, 
and at length prevailed on them to accompany them 
to Kamtfchatka, when they fhould return thither. 
The Japanefe added, that their number had been much 
greater, but that many of their companions had fallen 
victims to the fatigues at fea, and, fince that, to the 
rigour of the climate. 

The relater of this little hiftory appeared to have a 
marked fuperiority over the other eight. He, as he faid, 
was a merchant, and the others merely failors under 
his command. Certain it is, that they fhowed a fin- 
gular attachment and refpe& towards him. If he was 
fick, or gave any fymptoms of uneafinels, they ver” 
penetrated with grief; and regularly twice a day, vas 

o 


of them 
friendfhi 
a day wi 
greateft 
thing. 
had noth 
hair like 
of his he 
Though 
were alw 
in the CI 
a pinch ¢ 
plenifhin, 
equally g 
tolerable 
eating, 
in China 
The g 
him, was 
Japanefe 
thinner, : 
he told N 
per, was r 
the midd 
cups, pla 
nifhed. 
Having 
M. de Le 
M., Kaflo: 
as he had 
From N 
werlts to 
morning | 
china, in 
five leagu 
the night, 
evening a 
M. Kaf 
VoL. 


KAMTSCHATKA; 


of, them was fent to make enquiries after him. His: 
friendfhip for them was as great ; for he never paffed 
a day without, vifiting them in turn, and taking the 
greateft care that they fhould not be in want of any 
thing, The figure of this man, whofe name was Kodail, 
had nothing remarkable in it. At firft he wore his 
hair like the Chinefe, with a fingle lock on the middle 
of his head, but he now fuffered it to grow generally. 
Though, much affected by the cold, his neck and arms 
were always uncovered. He was conftantly fmoking 
in the Chinefe manner, that is, putting not more than 
a pinch of tobacco into his pipe at a time, and fo re- 
plenifhing it. His penetration and curiofity were 
equally great. . He fpoke the Ruffian language with 
tolerable eafe, was remarkable for fobriety, and, in 
eating, made ufe.of two little fticks, as is the cuftom 
in China... ; 

The gold coin of this country, which he had with 
him, was of an oval form, and very thin, marked with 
Japanefe characters, The filver money was fquare, 
thinner, and lighter than the gold, but was at Japan, 
he told M. de Leffeps, of fuperior value. The cop- 
per, was round, with a fquare hole pierced through 
the middle. The lading of his fhip had been chiefly. 
cups, plates, boxes, and other articles, highly var- 
nifhed. | 

Having pañled three days at Nijenei-Kamtfchatka, 
M. de Leffeps.fet out on the 12th, in order to rejoin 
M..Kafloff, whom he was fure of finding at Yelofki, 
as he had. bufinefs to detain him there fome days. 
From Nijenei M. de Lefleps went twenty-two 
werfts to Ichoka, thence to Kamikoff, and the next 
morning to Kaminoi. He then took the road to Kart- 
china, in which he had to pafs three lakes, the laft 
five leagues at leaft in circumference, There he pafled 
the night, and quitting it at day-break, arrived in the 
evening at Yelofki, a diftance of feventy werfts. 

M: Kañloff's employment obliged them to remain 

Vor. IL, (¢c) at 


$4 TRAVELS FROM 


at Yelofki five days longer, and early the roth they 
continued their journey. Having gone fifty-four 
wer(ts, a horrible tempeft, attended by whirlwinds, 
which raifed the {now in clouds, made it impoffible 
for them to proceed. The guides no longer knew 
their way; fo as to keep the road, and propofed con- 
duGing them to a wood not far off, which would af- 
ford them fome kind of fhelter. ‘There was no alter. 
native ; and waiting till all the fledges were come up, 
for fear of any being loft or feparated, they gained 
the wood about two hours after mid-day. 

The firft care of the Kamfchadales was to hollow 
out the fnow, which was fix feet deep; the others 
brought wood, and in an inftant a fire was kindled, 
and the kettle fet on. A light repaft, with fome 
glaffes of brandy, foon revived the- company. At 
night, each perfon was occupied in contriving his 
bed, M. de Leffeps and M. Kafloff flept in their ve- 
rocks, the only two carriages of the kind in the party. 
The reft dug pits or holes in the fnow, which they 
coverdd with fmall branches of the trees, and wrap- 
ping themfelves up in their kouklanki's, with the 
hood drawn ovet theit heads, went to reft very com- 
fortably. The dogs were unharnefled, and tied to 
the trees, and pañled the night upon the fnow as 
ufual. | 

The wind:having greatly fallen, they fet out before 
day, and atrived at Ozernoi, thirty werfts diftant, by 
ten o’clock, At this place the dogs were fo excef- 
fively fatigued, they ftopped that day and night; in 
hopes too that the wind, which after noon’ had in- 
creafed fomewhat, would be ‘more fubfided. 

: The oftrog of Ozernoi takes its name from a neigh- 
bouring lake. ‘The river Ozernaia runs at the foot 
of the village, but is not confiderable. There they 
pafled the 21ft, and the 22d went on to Ouké, 
twenty-fix werfts. One ifba was all they found at 
Ouké, twelve balagans, and two yourts, or fubterra- 

neous 


neous h 
and his 
purpofe 
Leavi 
tance t 
were in 
They n 
for fom 
fuch he: 
from th 
tants to 
At K 
diftance 
and twe 
this pla 
was fro 
The ht 
fort of « 
fait wit 
the fkin 
could p 
and fet 
asth, 2 
and kee 
got to 
they fle 
At this 
who ca 
ral fubj 
At d 
venty w 
ftands | 
dwellin 
lagans, 
which « 
the vill: 
of Kam 
Obli 


KAMTSCHATKA. 35 


neous habitations, in one of which M. de Leffeps 
and his friend flept, having had it cleaned for that 
purpofe. 

Leaving this village at break of day, at fome dif. 
tance they faw a number of balagans, which they 
were informed were inhabited in the fithing feafon. 
They now got near the fea, and kept along the coaft 
for fome time ; but the wind blew the fnow about in 
fuch heaps, that they could not fee to what diftance 
from the lund the fea was frozen, which the inhabi. 
tants told them was thirty werfts. | 

At Khaluli, feventy werfts from Ouké, and a fmall 
diftance from the fea, they found only two yourtes 
and twelve or thirteen balagans. They faw alfo at 
this place a baidar, or boat, covered with leather ; it 
was from fifteen to eighteén feet long, and four wide. 
The hull was compofed of thin planks, making a 
fort of crois or arbour work. The timbers were made 
faft with leather ftraps, and the whole covered with 
the fkins of the morfe and fea-wolf, fo that no water 
could poffibly penetrate. Here they ftaid two nights, 
and fetting out at ten o’clock the morning of the 
asth, after travelling fome time they regained the fea, 
and keeping along the eaftern coaft for fome werfts, 
got to Ivafchin, forty werfts from Khaluli, where 
they flept, and the next night they reached Drannki. 
At this village they met a M. Haus, a Ruffian officer, 
who came from Tiguel, and brought M. Kafloff feve- 
ral fubjects of natural hiftory. 

At day-breuk they left Drannki, and travelling fe- 
venty werfts, arrived in the evening at Karagui, which 
ftands high, and commands a view of the fea. The 
dwellings confifted of three yourtes and a dozen ba- 
lagans, at the foot of which ran the river Karaga, 
which empties itfelf into the fea a few gun-fhots from 
the village. Drannki is the laft village in the diftri& 
of Kamtfchatka. 

Obliged to wait in this place for fome dried fith, 

(c 2) which 


30 TRAVELS FROM 


which was to’ feed the dogs:in the defarts they were 
now to traverfe, M, de Lefleps took the opportunity 
of revifing his notes, and of paying fome attention to 
the yourtes, or caves, none of which he had had an 
opportunity of examining that were perfec. 

This itrange habitation is a fquare excavation, 
about twelve or fourteen yards in diameter, and eight 
feet deep, with a top rifing above the ground, fhaped 
fomething like a dome. The four fides arelined with 
joifts..or boards, and the interftices filled up with 
earth, {traw, or dried grafs, and ftones. In the bot- 
tom) feveral pofts are fixed that fupport the crofs 
beans upon which the roof refts, which rifes four 
feet from the level of the ground, and is made of the 
fame. materials,as the fides. ‘Towards the top is a 
fquare opening, about four feet long and three wide, 
which ferves as a paflage for the {moke, as well as for 
entrance into the yourte by means of a Jadder, jor 
notched piece of timber. It is thought a kind of 
difgrace.to go through a door that is lower down in 
the fide of the yourte. The whole is furrounded by 
high palifades, which ferve as a defence againft the 
wind'as well as the drifts of fnow. Some fay that 
thefe enclofures were formerly, ufed by thefe people 
as ramparts againft their enemies. 

You have only to enter one of thele favage abodes 
to wifh.yourfelf out again. .The fight and fmell are 
equally affected. It is one fingle room, about ten feet 
high, furrounded with a kind of bench five feet wide, 
and raifed a foot from.the ground, covered with the 
halt-worn fkins of different animals, and which is ufed 
as a bed for all the inhabitants The number of thefe 
fometimes amounts to twenty perfons, men, women, 
and childien, who all eat, drink, and fleep together, 
without the fmalleft regard to cleanlinefs or\ decency 
of any kind. They have almoft conftantly a fire, 
which is placed either in the middle or at one-fide of 
the room. In the evenipg the coals are raked up in 
a heap, 


— _ 
sp Se ° 7 


a heap, 
means 
night, 
ready d 
the ap: 
ing wit 
images 
reft'of 
The re 
WwoIne 
falmon 
The 
de Le 
that 9 
fo clofe 
peared 
at the 
fons ; 
fkin, À 
A han 
newed 
others 
child's 
up, an 
hung « 
where 
a fath 
carriec 
leathe: 
head, 
The 
and M 
to his 
great 
them 
Th 
very | 
there 


KAMTSCHATKA. 37: 


a heap, and the opening at the top clofed, by which 
means the, heat is concentrated, and preferved. all 
night, By the light of an almoft infectious lamp, al-. 
ready defcribed, you may difcover in one corner of 
the apartment, an uncouth image of {ome faint, fhin- 
ing with greafe, and black with fmoke. Before thefe 
images they bend, and offer up their prayers... The 
reft’of the furniture is trifling, all difguttingly filthy. 
The remains of dried fith lie here and there, and the 
women and children are continually broiling pieces of 
falmon fkin, which is a favourite marfel. | 

The fingularity of the children’s drefs attracted M. 
de Leffep’s attention. It was faid to be exaétly like 
that of the Koriacs, and confifted of a deer-fkin, fitted 
fo clofe to eyery part of the body, thatthe child ap- 
peared to be fewed up in it. There was an opening 
at the bottom, before and behind, for obvious rea- 
fons ; and this was covered with a feparate piece of 
fkin, which could be faftened:or lift up at pleafure. 
A handful of mofs ferved for a. napkin, and was re- 
newed occafionally. Befides the common fleeves, two 
others were attached to the garment, in which the 
child's arms were put when cold; the ends were clofed 
up, and the infide lined with mofs... A hood of {kin 
hung on the fhoulders of the children in the yourte, 
where their heads. were always kept naked; and for 
a fafh they had a girt of deer-fkin. Their mothers 
carried them upon. their backs, by the help of a 
leather ftrap, which paffed round the woman’s fore- 
head, and under the feat of the child. 

The toyon of Karagui, with whom M. de Leffeps 
and M. Kafloff lodged, was an old rebel, brought back 
to his duty with great difficulty; and he gave them 
great uneafinefs, by abfolutely refufing to procure 
them fifh. à 1 à! 

The manners of the inhabitants of this village are 
very like thofe of the neighbouring Koriacs, of whom 
there are two forts, Thofe properly fo called, who 
| (e 3) have 


38 TRAVELS FROM 


have a fixed refidence, and others who are wanderers, 
known by the denomination of rein-deer Koriacs, and 
who have numerous flocks, which they maintain by 
driving them about to thofe parts abounding with 
mofs. Thus they are conftantly travelling, encamp- 
ing under tents of fkin, and fubfifting upon the pro- 
duce of their deer. 

Having learnt that two of thefe hordes of travelling 
Koriacs were in the neighbourhood, M de Lefleps 
immediately fent a meflenger to enquire if they would 
fell fome of their deer; and they brought two live ones 
the fame day. This fuccour came very opportunely 
to quiet the people, who began to be afraid of ftarv- 
ing; and the dogs were ftill in danger, as their pro- 
vifion of fifh was not arrived. A deer was killed di. 
rectly; but when they came to treat about the price, 
they were greatly embarraffed, as the Koriacs could 
fpeak neither Ruffian nor Kantfchadale; nor could 
they ever have underftood each other, but for a Ka- 
ragui, who ferved as interpreter. 

The rein-deer of the Koriacs were as ferviceable to 
them for draught as dogs were to the Kamtfchadales. 
The method of harneffing and managing them will be 
given in its proper place. 

The evening of the doth, a ferjeant, whom they 
had been expecting fome days, arrived with provi- 
fions; and it was determined to fet out the next 
morning. But they were detained by a violent ftorm 
of wind and fnow, which lafted till the evening of 
the following day. In order to divert themfelves, 
therefore, it was propofed to try the talents of a cele- 
brated female dancer, an inhabitant of Karagui, and 
whofe fame had raifed their curiofity. They accord- 
ingly fent for her; but from caprice, or ill-humour, 
fhe refuled to dance, or to pay any regard to their in- 
vitation. It was in vain to reprefent to her the re. 
fpeét due to the Commandant. Nothing could per- 
fuade her. Fortunately they had brandy at hand, 
foine bumpers of which feemed to change her ce 

ition. 


fition. 
began to 
voice an 
her coun 
frame fhe 
She pref 
cing not 
time wit 
The mot 
contain 1 
fied the 
more ex 
the ftra 
diftorted 
agility, ¢ 
rage, wl 
mined t 
ftranget 
more ex 
woman, 
have th 
ourte, | 
eep cot 
way. \ 
that fhe 
hang up 
felf, he 
on whic 
of breat 
whilft tk 
tinued 
recover! 
up, and 
ftandin; 
teft, bu 
intercec 
felf unv 
filenced 


—~ = 


=> 


oe a a DE 


KAMTSCIÉATKA. 39 


fition, At the fame time, by defire, a Kamtfchadale 
began to dance before her, and provoke her by his 
voice and gefture. Her eyes gradually brightened ; 
her countenance became convulfed, and her whole 
frane fhook upon the bench where fhe was fitting. 
She prefently anfwered the incitements and the pier- 
cing notes of the dancer by fimilar efforts, keeping 
time with her head, which turned in every direction. 
The motions at length became fo rapid, that fhe could 
contain no longer; but ftarting up on the ground, de. 
fied the man in her turn, by cries and contortions 
more extravagant than his. It is difficult to exprefs 
the ftrangenefs of the dance. All her limbs feemed 
diftorted ; fhe moved them with as much ftrength as 
agility, carrying her hands to her bofom in a kind of 
rage, which fhe uncovered, and feized, as if deter- 
mined to tear it, as the did her garments. Thefe 
ftrange tranfports were accompanied with poftures {till 
more extraordinary. In a word, fhe was no longer a 
woman, but afury. In her blind phrenzy the would 
have thrown herfelf upon the fire in the middle of the 
ourte, if her hufband, who had the precaution to 
eep conftantly near her, had not put a bench in the 
way. When he faw that her head was quite gone, 
that fhe rolled from fide to fide, and was obliged to 
hang upon her fellow dancer, in order to fupport her- 
felf, he carried her in his arms to the circular bench, 
on which the fell like a mafs without fenfe, and out 
of breath. She remained in this ftate five minutes; 
whilf the Kamtfchadale, elate with his triumph, con- 
tinued finging and dancing. The woman, a little 
recovered, heard him; and fuddenly raifing herfelf 
up, and uttering the moft inarticulate founds, notwith- 
ftanding her weaknefs would have renewed the con- 
teft, but for her hufband, who kept her back, and 
interceded for her. The victor, however, feeling him- 
felf unwearied, continued his alluring grimaces, till 
filenced by the authority of the company. In fpite of 
(c.4) the 


' =. DE 
SS —— — = a 
=: a ——— 


Se — 


40 TRAVELS FROM 


the encomiums beftowed upon the actors, M. de 
Leffeps thought the fcene rather difgufting than other- 
wife. 6 

Every perfon in this village, men and women, 
fmoke and chew tobacco; with which, : by an unac- 
countable refinement, they mix afhes, in order, as 
they faid, to make it ftronger. Some, to whom {nuff 
was offered, put into their mouths. Their pipes were 
made like the Chinefe, of bone, and very fmall; they 
take great care not to emit the fmoke, ‘but {wallow 
it with delight. 

The toyons, or magiftrates of the feveral villages 
through which they had paffed from Ozernoi, who 
had accompanied them out of refpeët to M. Kaïloff, 
took their leave two days after their arrival at Kara- 
gui; and they bade adieu in a manner that fhewed a 
{trong attachment to the perfon of the Governor-ge- 
neral. Their kindnefs was even extended ta M.'de 
Lefleps, who could by no means withftand the little 
prefents that were offered him; and which was either 
the fkin of a fable or of a fox, or fruit, or fifh, or 
whatever they judged would be acceptable. : . 

The weather being calm, at one o’clock in the 
morning of the 2d of March, our travellers left Ka- 
ragui; and having gone fifty werlts, they ftopped 
at the approach of night, and pitched their tents in 
the open country. Under M. Kafloff’s tent, which 
was the iarge(t, his verock and that of M..de Leffeps 
were placed fide by fide; fo that putiing their faces 
clofe to the windows, which were made of the leaves 
of talc, they could converfe without difficulty. In the 
intervals between the other fledges, which were ranged 
two and two round the outfide of the tent, under co- 
verings of fkins, the guides and the reft of their fuite 
made their beds. Such was the difpofition of their 
halt in that barren fpot. Tea and fupper were the 
only meals of the day ; and a corporal acted as cate- 
rer and cook. The difhes he had to ferve up were 
neither many nor delicate, but his alacrity in preparing 

| them, 


them, : 
comma 
beef or 
or oat 

Earl 
but fo 
werits, 
with gt 
fered e 
of who 
others 
want oO 
their u 
tity re 
days 
dier to 
fend a 
Kafloff 
of fort 
upon tl 

Ast 
hamlet 
fome fi 
to give 
the bet 
ing pal 
the for 
fumed 


they g 


‘ o'clock 


falling 
built o 
up by 
nor an 
here a 
more { 
luntari 
There 


KAMTSCHATKA. Al 


them, and a good appetite, gave them a relifh. , He 
commonly produced a foup, compofed of a piece of 
beef or deer, and fome of the baked bread, with rice 
or oatmeal. 

Early next morning they continued their journey, 
but found it impoffible to go more than thirty-five 
werlts, The wind had fhifted, and blew the fnow 
with great violence in their faces. The guides fuf- 
fered exceedingly, but not fo much as the dogs, many 
of whom died inthe road, exhaufted by fatigue. The 
others could draw no longer, fo wéak were they for 
want of nourifhment; having had only a quarter of 
their ufual allowance, on account of the {mall quan- 
tity remaining, which was fcarcely enough for two 
days more. In this extremity they difpatched a fol- 
dier to Kaminoi, to procure them a fupply, and to 
fend an efcort to meet them, which was waiting M, 
Kafloff’s arrival at that village, and confifted of a guard 
of forty men, who had been fent him from Ingiga, 
upon the firit news of the revolt among the Koriacs. . 

As they were only fifteen werfts from the village or 
hamlet of Gavenki, where they had hopes of finding 
fome fifh for their dogs; they ventured that evening 
to give them a double portion, that they might be 
the better able to continue their journey. And hav- 
ing paffed the night in the fame manner that they had 
the former, at three o’clock in the morning they re- 
fumed thejr route, keeping clofe to the fea-fhore till 
they got tq Gavenki, whither they arrived by ten 
' o’clock. Nothing was to be feen here but two yourtes 
falling to decay, and fix ill conftructed balagans, 
built of crooked pieces of wood accidentally thrown 
up by the fea; for there was not a tree in the place, 
nor any thing except a few bufhes, thinly fcattered 
here and there. It was no wonder they learned that 
more than twenty inhabitants had not long fince vo- 
luntarily exiled themfelves, in fearch of a better abode. 
There were now only five families, including that of 

the 


A2 TRAVELS FROM 


the toyon, and two Kamtfchadales, who had come 
hither from the ifle of Karagui. No reafon was af. 
figned for the change, by which it was.certain they 
could not have gained. 

They had not been an hour at Gavenki, when a 
difpute arofe between a ferjeant belonging to their 
fuite and two countrymen of the village, to whom he 
applied for wood. They anfwered fharply, they would 
not give him any. Both parties grew warm, and the 
Kamtfchadales, not intimidated by the menacés of the 
ferjeant, attacked him with their knives, which were 
two feet long, faftened to a girdle, and hanging upon 
their thighs. They were foon ditarmed by two of the 
foldiers ; and as foon as the Governor was informed 
of this aé& of violence, he ordered that the delinqu:nts 
fhould be made an example of. For this purpofe 
they were brought before the yourte, in which were 
M. Kafloff and M. de Leffeps ; and, in order to Mike 
the inhabitants with awe, M. Kafloff attended the pu- 
nifhment. The toyon, who remained with M. de 
Leffeps, began‘to murmur at the rigour with which 
his countrynen were treated; and his family joined 
him with ftill louder crivs. M. de Leffeps, though 
alone, endeavoured to calm him; and perceiving that 
M. Kafloff had forgot his arms, he feized the fabres, 
upon a motion the toyon made to go out, and fol- 
lowed him inftantly. The toyon joined the Gover- 
nor, and calling upon his neighbours, loudly demand- 
ed the releafe of the prifoners He urged, that he 
alone was their judge, and he alone had a right of 
punifhing them. To thefe feditious clamours M. 
Kafloff made no reply, bu: a fevere look, which dif- 
concerted the effrontery of the peafants and their 
chiefs. The toyon uttered more words, but they 
feized him, and compelled him to affift at the punith- 
ment which he had attempted to prevent. One of the 
rebellious was a young man eighteen years of age, 
the other twenty-eight, or thirty. They were lh 
an 


and laid ur 
legs and h. 
fhouiders a 
were cover 
women, th 
man fent a 
fcarcely in 
dream of r 
The fe 
cafion was 
à great des 
Inftead of 
for the ufe 
therto don 
hood was 
nofes dir 
earth and | 
which they 
dignation | 
but they c 
peared tha 
cod or ftoc 
mals. 
There i: 
hood, but 
tants with 
lake, and | 
keepin ak 
about the 
and to thi 
Near the 
entrenchm 
ple fora r 
M. de! 
or thirteer 
for Poutf 
which con 
been fo pz 


KAMTSCHATKA. 43 


and laid upon the ground. Two foldiers held their 
legs and hands, whilft four others laid on upon their 
fhouiders a plentiful number of {tiipes, till their backs 
were covered with blood. At the entreaties of the 
women, the punifhment was abridged ; and the young 
man fent away with an exhortation, to which he was 
fcarcely in a fituation to attend, any more than to 
dream of rebelling a fecond time. | 

‘The feverity exercifed by M. Kafloff on this oc- 
cafion was the more neceflary, as thefe péople fhewed 
a great deal of the reftlefs difpofition of the Koriacs. 
Inftead of fupplying the party with provifions, even 
for the ufe of the dogs, as the Kamtfchadales had hi- 
therto done, they denied having any. But their falfe- 
hood was foon detected by the dogs themfelves, whofe 
nofes directed them to the pits, artfully covered with 
earth and fnow, in which they hid their fifh, and for 
which they weakly attempted to make excufes. In. 
dignation might have led the party to feize the whole, 
but they contented themfelves with a thare. .It ap- 
peared that their fifhing confifted of falmon, herrings, 
cod or ftock-fifh, of morfe, and other amphibious ani- 
mals. 

There is neither {pring nor river in the neighbour- 
hood, but a lake only which f:pplies the inhabi- 
tants with water. In winter they break the ice of this 
lake, and carry home great portions of it, which they 
keepin akind of trough fufpended in the yourte, at 
about the height of a man. Here the heat melts it, 
and tothis they have recourfe when they are dry. 
Near the village was a mountain, wish fome fort of 
entrenchment, which formerly had ferved thefe peo- 
ple for a re in their revolts. oii 

M, de Lefleps and his companions ftaid but twelve 
or thirteen hours at Gavenki and departed at night 
for Poutitaretfk, a diftance of two hundred werits, 
which confumed five long days. Never had journey 
been fo painful. At fetting out the weather was to- 

| lerably 


44 TRAVELS FROM 


lerably good ; but the feeond day the fnow and wind 
affailed them with fuch impetuofity, that the guides 
were blinded. At four paces: they could not diftin. 
uifh any thing, nor fcarcely fee the fledge they. were 
immediately following. ! 
To increafe their diftrefs, the guide they took at 
Gavenki was fo fhort-fighted from age, that he fre- 
quently led them out of the way, and they: were 
obliged to ftop while he found out the vefliges of 
the road. Many of the dogs died of hunger ‘and fa- 
tigue. Of the thirty-feven that drew M. de Lefleps’ 
verock from Bolcheretfk, twenty-three only remain. 
ed; and M. Kafloff had alfo loft many of his. They 
had neither water nor wood; they were, therefore, 
obliged to quench their thirft with {now, and often to 
© fome diftance out of the way to break fome wood 
Sock a miferable fhrub, for the purpofe of drefling 
their victuals. To warm themfelves was impoflible, 
and they were almoft frozen, from the exceflive cold 
and the flownefs with which they travelled. The 
anxiety of M. de Lefleps, on account of his dif. 
patehes, added greatly to his diftrefs; impatient to 
fulfil his commiflion, the obftacles he had to furmount, 
and the doubtfulnefs of his fuccefs, greatly agitated 
his mind, and almoft drove him: to delpair.” 
When they left Gavenki, they had quitted the eaf- 
tern coaft, and got within fight of the weftern two 
werfts from Poutftaretfk ; fo that they had traverfed 
the whole width of that part of Kamtfchatka, which 
is not lefs than fifty leagues. And this journey the 
inability of their dogs had obliged them to make more 
a-foot than in their fledges, which the guides were 
fometimes under the neceflity of drawing. With this 
affiftance, and enticing thedogs by holding up a hand- 
kerchief before them, made into the fhape of a fifh, 
they were at length enabled to pafs the mountain that 
led to Poutftarettk. 
On entering this hamlet, which they did on the oth 
of 


of the:mo 
felves fafe, 
hufbands 
fearch of w 
his party t 
round then 
her parque 
exprefled t 
as they fa 
laughter. 
Their fi 
fifh.: How 
empty! T 
tants had t 
at Gavenk 
could not f 
In this i 
order to bi 
were no {o 
and harne 
them: were 
country, v 
every thir 
pieces. § 
every limt 
competito! 
It became 
themfelves 
thefe fami 
them deve 
the woefu 
yourte of 
leton appe 
paffion, x 
feemed a: 
which it \ 
fering fro: 
clote to tl 


wind 
ruides 
diftin. 
were 


ok at 
e fre- 
were 
res of 

d fa- 
pfleps’ 
main. 
They 
efore, 
en to 
wood 
efling 
flible, 
> cold 
The 
à dif- 
nt to 
ount, 
itated 


e eaf- 
1 two 
erfed 
which 
y the 
more 
were 
1 this 
hand- 
fifh, 
1 that 


e oth 
of 


KAMTSCHATKA. Ad 


of the month at three o'clock, they thought them- 
felves fafe, from the reception of the women, whofe 
hufbands were gone to the oftrog of Potkagornoi, in 
fearch of whales. They conducted M. de Leffeps.and 
his party to, their habitations, finging and dancing 
round them like mad people. One of them. took off 
her parque or frock, and put it on M. Kafloff; others 
expreffed their fatistaétion at the unexpected arrival, 
as they faid, of the ftrangers, by violent fits of 
laughter. 

Their firft care was to vifit all the refervoirs for 
fith., How great was their chagrin at finding them all 
empty ! They immediately fufpelted that the inhabi- 
tants had taken the fame precaution as had been ufed 
at Gavenki, but their fearches were ufelefs, and they 
could not find any. 

In this interval the dogs had been unharnefled, in 
order to be tied up in divifions as ufual. But they 
were no fooner faftened to the pofts than the ftraps 
and harnels were devoured. All attempts at {topping 
them were vain. he greater part efcaped into the 
country, where they wandered here and there, eating 
every thing that their teeth could poffibly tear to 
pieces. Some died and became a prey to the reft, 
every limb of a carcafe being. contefted by a troop of 
competitors, all of whom attacked it with equal fury, 
It became abfolutely neceffary for the people to arm 
themfelves with fticks, or other weapons, to beat off 
thefe famifhed animals. To the horror of beholding 
them devouring each other in this manner, was added 
the woeful : fpeétacle of thofe that encompaffed the 
yourte of M. de Leffeps and his company. The fke- 
leton appearance of thefe poor animals excited com- 
paffion, whilft their plaintive and continual cries 
feemed as reproaches for the want of that fuccour 
which it was impoffible to afford them. Many fuf- 
fering from cold as well as hunger, placed themfelves 
clote to the aperture in the top of the aneriment by 

which 


46 TRAVELS FROM 


which the fmoke afcended, The more they felt the 
heat, the nearer they drew; till lofing their balance 
through weaknels, they fell down into the fire before 
their eyes. 

Soon after their arrival, the guide returned who 
had accompanied the foldier fent from Kaminoi on the 
third, in fearch of fupplies. He informed them that the 
foldier was himfelf in the greateft want, was happy in 
having difcovered, twelve wer{ts to the northward of 
Poutitaretfk, a wretched abandone: yourte, in which 
he found fhelter from the ftorms that had bewildered 
him feveral times. The provifions that had been 
given him for himfelf and his dogs were confumed ; 
and he waited impatiently for fome relief, without 
which he could neither leave his afylum, nor execute 
the purport of his miffion. 

M. Kafloff, far from being caft down by this laft 
difappointment, comforted his companions, by im- 
parting the laft expedient he had refolved to adopt. 
On information of a whale’s having been driven 
afhore near Potkagornoi, he had already difpatched a 
meffenger, who was to bring them, with the utmoft 
expedition, as much of the flefh and fat of that fith as 
he could obtain. This refource ftill being uncertain, 
M. Kafloff propofed, that each fhould make a facrifice 
of the provifions he had referved for his own dogs, 
and give them up to Serjeant Kabechoff, who had 
offered to go to Kaminoi. In their prefent diftrefs, 
the leaft glimmer of hope fufficed to decide them ; and 
they embraced the offer with tranfport, relying upon 
the zeal and ability of the ferjeant. 

He went away the 1oth, amply furnifhed with in- 
ftru€tions, and carrying with him the remainder of 
theif provifions. In his route he was to pick up the 

oor foldier, and then haften to fulfil the commiffion, 
which be had not been able to effect. After having 
taken thefe meafvres, they exhorted one another to 
patience, and endeavoured to diffipate their ai 
tl 


till it fhou 
de Leffeps 
taretfk. 
This he 
wafhed by 
call it Po 
only a na 
mountain, 
fo that the 
thirft witl 
perfons, c 
for fumme 
the yourte 
They p 
provifion 
as their fo 
the flefh a 
with the b 
fea wolf, « 
faid they ¢ 
de Leffeps 
as they af 
Theirr 
there are. 
round a 
leaving fo 
fpread net 
to drive 
caught by 
ways efca 
fades ; bi 
one chafe 
Befides 
mens’ bu 
mals, par 
them. 7 
in a ftick 
nue to fc 


It the 
lance 
>etore 


who 
m the 
at the 
py in 
ard of 
which 
dered 

been 
med ; 
thout 
ecute 


s laft 
| ime 
dopt. 
riven 
hed a 
ot 
fh as 
tain, 
rificé 
dogs, 
» had 
trefs, 
; and 


KAMTSCHATKA. 47 


till it fhould pleafe Providence to deliver them. M. 
de Leffeps employed this time in looking round Poutf. 
taret{k. | 

This hamlet is fituated on the flope of a mountain, 
wafhed by the fe. Though the people. of the country 
call it Pouftai-reka, the Defart River. But it is, in fac, 
only a narrow gulf, that advances to the foot of the 
mountain. The water was falt, and not drinkable, 
fo that they were even here obliged to quench their 
thirft with fnow. ‘Two yourtes, containing fifteen 
perfons, compofed the whole hamlet. A few balagans 
for fummer habitations were at fome diftance from 
the yourtes, higher up in the country. | 

They paffed the fummer in fifhing, and in making 
provifion for winter. But fifh could not be plentiful, 
as their food, during M. de Leffeps’ abode there, was 
the flefh and fat of the whale, the crude bark of trees, 
with the buds foaked in the oil of the whale or of the 
fea wolf, or ix the greafe of other animals. They 
faid they caught {mall cod fometimes at fea, and M. 
de Leffeps had no doubt of their being really as poor 
as they appeared 'to be. 

Their method of hunting the rein deer, of which 
there aré great numbers, is eafy and fure. They fur. 
round a certain fpace of ground with pallifades, 
leaving fome narrow paffages open, in which they 
fpread nets or fnares, They then feparate, in order 
to drive the deer into thefe fnares, where they are 
caught by the neck or the horns. A great number al- 
ways efcape, by breaking the nets or leaping the pali- 
fades ; but twenty or thirty men will frequently in 
one chafe take more than fixty deer. 

Befides their houfehold employments, it is the wo- 
mens’ bufinefs to prepare the fkins of the different ani- 
mals, particularly of the deer, by flaining and fewing 
them. They firft fcrape them with a fharp ftone fixed 
in a ftick. And having taken off the fat, they conti- 
nue to fcrape them till they become thinner and fup- 


ple. 


48 TRAVELS FROM 


ple. The:only colour they dye them is a deëp red, 
which they do from the bark of the alder. tree, call- 
ed in Ruflia olkhovaïa-déréva. They boil this bark, 
arid then rub the fkin with it till it is impregnated 
with the dye. The knives with which :they after. 
wards cut the fkins, are crooked, and probably of 
their own invention. 

The finews of the deer, finely feparated, and pre. 
pared by thefe women, ferve them for thread. They 
few perfectly well. . Their needles come from Okotik, 
and are nothing extraordinary. The thimble, which 
refembles à taylor’s, is worn upon the fore finger. 

The manner of fmoking, by putting a pinch of to- 
bacco in the pipe ata time; and replenifhing it, has al. 
ready been mentioned ; but the terrible confequences 
which M; de Leffeps often witneffed; was not noticed, 
By fwallowing the fmoke; inftead of emitting it, they 
‘by degrees become fo intoxicated as to fall into, the 
fire, if they were near it. Happily cuftom has taught 
them to mark the progrefs of this fainting fit; and 
‘they have the precaution to fit down, orto lean againft 
the firft thing they meet with... The fwoon lafts at 
leaft a quarter of dn hour, during which time they fuf- 
fer exceedingly. A;cold fweat bedews their body; 
the flaver runs from their mouths; they, breathe with 
difficulty, and cough inceffantly. This ftate they 
reckon the chief delight in fmoking. 

Neither men nor women wear fhirts or fhifts. Their 
common cloathing is fomething in the form of one, 
but fhorter, and made of deer fkin.. When:they go 
out, they put a warmer garment over it; and in-win- 
ter the women wear fur breeches inftead of petticoats. 

On the 12th M. Schmaleff rejoined them, and re- 
lieved them from a great anxiety on hisaccount. : He 
had been abfent fix weeks, and near a month had 
‘elapfed beyond {the time fixed for his coming up to 
them. : The provitions he brought were very fcanty, 

-but his.dogs were rather!in-better orderthan di c 
whic 


their ov 
for M. | 
had dev 
reduced 
ed, that 
refource 
but he : 
as that 
dogs or 
ready fi 
hope, : 
would « 
the fam 
Govern 

In tl 
formed 
loff fF 
to find 
OF the | 
our fro 
that we 
impoflit 
ration tl 
given u 
ceed. ” 
were to 


K AMTSCHATKA. AQ 


éf which they took the advantage, by fending them 
for fome of the fledges that had been unavoidably left 
on the road. 

Letters from Kamirioi brought them no comfort ; 
Kabechoff informing them that no affiftance was to 
be expected thence. ‘The detachment from Ingiga 
could not reach them; it had been waiting two 
months at Kaminoi, and they not only had confumed 
their own provifions; but thofe alfo that were deftined 
for M. Kafloff and his party. Their dogs, like ours, 
had devoured one another; and the forty men were 
reduced to the greateft extremity. The ferjeant add- 
ed, that he had fent immediately to Ingiga as the laft 
refource. His exprefs could not return for fome days, 
but he was fearful the anfwer would be unfatisfactory, 
as that town could not be very well provided with 
dogs or food, after the confiderable fupply it had al- 
ready furnifhed. This afiéting report took away all 
hope, and entirely damped the pleafure M. Kafloff 
would otherwile have received, in having advice by 
the fame courier of his promotion from Okotfk to the 
Government of Yakoutik 

In this critical moment, M. de Leffeps fuddenly 
formed the fcheme of feparating himfelf from M. Kaf- 
loff His zeal to fulfil his commiffion prompted him 
to find out fome method of continuing his journey. 
Of the three hundred dogs with which they had fet 
out from Bolcherctfk, twenty-feven only remained 
that were at all capable of work, and with thefe it was 
impoffible for them both to travel. After much delibe- 
ration thercfore, it was agreed that the dogs fhould be 
given up to M. de Leffeps, in order that he might pro- 
ceed. The only remaining difficulty was, how they 
were to be fed. When the exprefs arrived from Pot- 
kagornoi, with a large quantity of the flefh and fat of 
the whale. No difficulty feemed now in the way, and 
the 18th was fixed for M. de Leffeps’ departure. | 

Fortune once more flattered him with hopes of fuc- 

Vou. II. (D) ceeding ; 


50 TRAVELS FROM 


ceeding ; and with the bad news from Kaminoi, he 
allo learned that quiet was re eltablifhed among the 
Koriacs ; 18 a proof of which, many of them had been 
defirous of accompanying the foldier charged, with 
the jetters to M. Kafloff; and even the fon of the re: 
bel Chief, whofe name was Eitel, was at the head of 
the eicort. He told them that his countrymen had 
long expected them with impatience, and that his fa- 
ther intended to fhew his re(pect for the Governor, 
by.coming to meet him. 

Charmed at having nothing to fear, at lealt from 
this quarter, they exprefled their fatisfaétion to the 
Koriacs for their good-will, by making them prefents 
of tobacco, and fiuffs, and other articles, which M. 
de Leffeps had purchafed during his voyage, or which 
the Count de la Péroufe had left him. But the prin- 
cipal care, in order to fecure a favourable report of 
their reception, was to make them drunk; and this, 
as meeting their tafte, was confidered as the, greateft 
politenels. Pr 

M. de Lefleps propofed that the Koriacs fhould 
take charge of his portmanteaus. To this they at firft 
objected, on account of the diftance, which was to 
Ingiga., But entreaties and money prevailed on them 
to take them into their fledges ; and thus he had no- 
thing to think of but his difpaches; as the foldier 
fent from Ingiga would return thither, and promifed 
to fee his wifhes faithfully complied with. 

The 18th of March at length arrived; when the 
parting between M. de Lefleps and M. Kafloff will na- 
turally be fuppofed affectionate and diftrefling. M. 
de Leffeps left Poutftarctfk at nine o’clock in the 
morning, on an open fleige, drawn by feven dogs, 
which he conducted himfclf.. He had a foldier, as an 
efcort, on a fledge with eight dogs, and an inhabitant 
of the hamlet as a guide, who carried the remainder 
of the baggage and the provifions on a fledge drawn 
by twelve dogs. M. de Lefleps was alfo accompanied 


by 


by M. § 
who, he 

Fro1 
the gulf 
in Fe 
became 
near the 
and we 
quently 
pany ef 

Tow 
fea-coa 
in am 
only m 
they en 
one of 
fled at t 
did, to 
coffac 
been fe 
their de 
at this | 
precauti 
arrival, 
difcover 
good fh 
provifio 

Early 
grew m 
nefs of | 
his legs 
thirft ac 
ceived a 
fome ice 
had felt 
and a fe 
the mid 
to find 


KAMTSCHATKA. 51 


by M. Schmaleff, and the inferior officers of his fuite, 
who, however, parted from him after fome days. 

From Poutftaretfk they immediately defcended upon 
the gulf, where they travelled with tolerable eafe, and 
in a few hours arrived at the mouth. Here the way 
became more difficult. Obliged to go on the fea, 
near the fhore, the heaps of ice greatly impeded them, 
and were very dangerous. The fledges were fre. 
quently overturned, and fcarcely a perfon in the com- 
pany efcaped without injury. 

Towards night-fall they arrived at a hamlet on the 
fea-coalt, where were two yourtes, and three balagans 
in a miferable condition, wholly abandoned. ‘The 
only man who had inhabited the yourte into which 
they entered, and who, M. de Lefleps learned from 
one of his attendants, was a chaman or forcerer, had 
filed at their approach; as all the wandering Koriacs 
did, to avoid the neceflity of fuccouring them. The 
coffac who gave M. de Leffeps this information, had 
been fent forward by M. Schmaleff the day before 
their departure from Poutftaretfk, with orders to ftop 
at this hamlet, and fearch for concealed fifh ; which 
precaution proved very ufeful to them; for on their 
arrival, the coffac conducted them to a cave he had 
difcovered full of fifh, of which M. de Leffeps took a 
good fhare, having brought with him only two days 
provifion. 

Early the 19th they continued their journey, which 
grew more and more fatiguing. The extreme bad- 
nefs of the road compelled M. de Leffeps to walk till 
his legs would fcarcely fupport him. An intolerable 
thirft added to his wearinefs. Unfortunately he per- 
ceived a fmall rivulet, and was induced to fwallow 
fome ice. His thirft was quenched, but the heat he 
had felt was prefently fucceeded by a fhivering fit, 
and a fevere paroxy{m of fever obliged him to halt in 
the midft of the defert. They were happy enough 
to find wood fufficient to make tea; and after drink- 

(D ‘2) ing 


52 TRAVELS FROM 


ing a few cups of this, M. de Leffeps laid down in a 
tent he had with him, well covered with furs, in hopes 
of raifing a perfpiration, This he could not effect, 
and paffed a moft uncomfortable night. He deters 
mined, however, to make an attempt at proceeding 
the next day, when the unavoidable exertion of driv- 
ing, though extremely painful at firft, foon excited 
perfpiration. ‘This he perfevered in encouraging, till 
by the evening his fever had fubfided, though he felt 
the effect of his indifcretion fome time. 

The weather was now very fine; and M. de Lef- 
feps received inexpreflible fatisfaction from meeting 
three convoys with provifion, and a hundred and fifty 
dogs in good order, fent by Serjeant Kabechoff to M, 
‘Kafloff. The foldier who conduéted the convoys told 
him alfo, that Prince Eitel, or the Chief of the Ko- 
racs of Kaminoi, who had been accufed of rebellion, 
was on his way to undeceive the Governor. ; 

After climbing fome fteep mountains, they came 
down upon a river called the Talofka, which was 
joined by a fmaller river towards the fea. The banks 
of both were well wooded. This river they quitted 
fome diftance from Kaminoi. ‘They then had a vaft 
heath of broom to traverfe, then a confiderable lake ; 
and, at length, they quitted the Pengina near its 
mouth, in a direction from fouth-eaft to north-weft. 
The breadth of this river was ftriking ; and the pro- 
digious heaps of ice with which it was covered, would 
have made it appear pleafantly piéturefque, if they had 
not had the fatigue and danger of frequently helping 
the dogs and the fledges from one heap to the other. 

On the 24th they entered Kaminoi about noon, 
and were kindly received by the inhabitants. In the 
abfence of Litel, another Prince, whofe name was 
Eila, held the command. He met them at'the head 
of a Ruflian detachment ; and they were conduéted to 
the yourte of Eïitel, which had been long cleaned and 
prepared againft the arrival of M. Kafloff. 

: Prince 


Poutit: 
eminen 
of the: 
balang: 
formed 
furrow! 
arrows 
thofe o 
cations 
withfta 
Tchou 
both fc 
eftimat 
childre 
dais, « 
to holc 
refemb 
conftr! 
adapte 

Imp 
bufine! 
leave I 
pounce 


KAMTSCHATKA, 53 
8 


Prince Eila paid them every kind of refpeët ; the 
had a fentinel conftantly at the door, whofe bufinefs 
was to keep out fufpicious perfons. Whatever foun- 
dation there might have been for the report of a re- 
bellion among thefe people, their prefent behaviour to 
M. de Lefleps and his compinions gave no reafon to 
doubt their peaceable difpofition ; and the Koriacs 
and Ruffians lived together upon the beft terms. 

M. de Leffeps had not intended to ftop at Kaminoi 
longer than to reft his dogs: but in the night of the 
24th and 25th the weather changed, and the blafts of 
wind threatened an approaching tempeft. The fear 
of meeting this in the open country made him defer 
his departure. 

The oftrog or village of Kaminoi, diftint from 
Poutftaretfk three hundred werfts, is fituated on an 
eminence, upon the borders of the fea, at the mouth 
of the river Pengina. It comprifes a great number of 
balangans and a dozen yourtes, all very large and 
formed like thofe already defcribed. The palifades 
furrounding them are fortified with lances, bows and 
arrows, and fufils, and are thicker and higher than 
thofe of the Kamtfchadales. Thefe miferable fortifi- 
cations the Koriacs think impregnable, and capable of 
withftanding the attacks of their enemies; even of the 
T'chouktchis, the moft formidable of their neighbours, 
both for number and courage. The population was 
eftimated at three hundred perfons, men, women, and 
children. M. de Leffeps faw here alfo twenty bai- 
dais, or boats, of different fizes ; fome large enough 
to hold from five and twenty to thirty perfons. They 
refembled that noticed at Khaluli, but feemed better 
conftruéted, and from their lightnefs to be better 
adapted for failing. 

Impatient as M .Schmaleff was to get to Ingig, his 
bufinefs made it neceflary to fufer M. de Leflèps to 
leave Kaminoi without him. ‘This refolution he an- 
nounced to M. de Lefleps not without pain, prefling 
(D 3) upon 


54 TRAVELS FROM 


upon him at the fame time a confidential foldier, 
named Yegor-Golikoff, which he called a valuable 
prefent, as the fequel proves it to have been, 

The fcarcity of dogs at Kaminoi, and the bad con- 
dition. of M. de Leffeps’, determined M. Schmaleff to 
give him the dogs belonging to the detachment ; and 
on the 26th, at eight o’clock in the morning,, he left 
Kaminoi, in tolerably calm weather, with an efcort of 
four men ; i. ¢. Golikoff, the foldier he had brought 
from Poutftaretfk, and two others, chofen out of the 
detachment from Ingiga, who were to ferve as guides. 

At the diftance of fifteen werfts, he met again with 
the mountains he had already pafled; and traverfing 
them a fecond time, croffed a river called Cheftokova, 
where he halted. Notwithftanding he was awakened 
by the gufts of wind which blew. the fnow about in 
fuch clouds, as made it difficult to diftinguifh whether 
it were day-light, he would {till haye continued his 
_ journey, but could not prevail upon his guides to quit 
the place, for fear of lofing their way, or running inta 
other danger during fuch terrible weather. 

Thus oppofed, M. de Leffeps re-entered his tent in 
no very good humour; but about noon he was agree- 
ably confoled by the arrival of feven Tchouktchis, who 
came on fledges, like thofe of the wandering Koriacs, 
and drawn like them by rein-deer. He received them 
into his tent, and invited them to ftay till the ftorm 
was over. Nothing could have been more flattering 
to them, as M. de Leffeps judged, from the air of fa- 
tisfaction vifible in their countenances. + 

Amongft thefe Tchouktchis was the Chief of the 
horde, named Tummé. He took upon himfelf to af- 
fure M. de Lefleps how fenfible they were of his gra- 
cious reception. He affured him, that fince they had 
heard mention of him, they had defired nothing fo 
much as his acquaintance ; and all their fear had been 
that they fhould never meet him. That they fhould 
never forget his perfon nor his kindnefs, of which 
they 


they 
their 

M 
tifyi 
turne 
try 
ftood 
thro 
verei. 
faithf 
hom 
that 
being 
twee 
ing, 
alle 
guen 
clofe 
migh 
biifh 
from 
every 
forge 
duét 
the K 
num! 
upon 
their 
with 
their 


KAMTSCHATKA. * 55 


they would take care to render a faithful account to 
their countrymen. | 
M. de Leffeps’ acknowledgments. were equally gra- 
tifying, and the converfation became general. It 
turned upon different fubjeéts, particularly their coun- 
try and that of M, de Lefleps. When they under- 
ftood that, in his return to France, he was to pafs 
through the town that was the refidence of their So- 
vereign, they requefted him to give the Emprefs a 
faithful defcription of them, and to lay at her feet the 
homage of their refpeét and obedience. They added, 
that they thought themfelves particularly happy in 
being tributary to Ruffia; that the intercourfe be- 
tween them and the Ruflians was every day improv- 
ing, and that they were charmed with their marks of 
affection. They beftowed great praife on M. Ga- 
guen, Governor of Ingiga. They even wifhed for a 
clofer connection with the Ruffians, which they faid 
might be eafily effected by their forming a new efta- 
blifhment on the river Anadir; and promifed, that far 
from interrupting them, they would endeavour, by 
every poffible initance of friendfhip, to make them 
forget the injuftice of their former conduct; a con- 
duét originating in error, from their looking upon 
the Ruffians, as the Koriacs had done, as a fmall 
number of individuals, who came as intruders to feize 
upon their territory, and of whom they thought it 
their intereft to rid themfelves. Their acquaintance 
with the Ruffians, they continued, had fhowed them 
their miftake ; and far from revolting, they were de- 
termined upon difconcerting the feditious intrigues of 
a Prince or Chief of the Tchouktchis, whole name 
was Kherourgi, either by reftraining his authority, or 
even by giving him up to the Ruffians. 
It was impoffible tor M. de Lefleps to give thefe 
people any notion of geography, fo as to make them 
underftand the fituation of France, or its diftance from 
Ruffia; with which country they were but little ac. 
(D 4) quainted, 


56 TRAVELS FROM 


quainted. They were ftill fuperior in underftanding 
to the Koriacs, as well as in a thirft after knowledge. 
Their language was the fame, but the pronunciation 
of.the Tchouktchis was fofter and pleafanter. 

The notice M. de Leffeps took of: their cloathing 
made them eager to know that of France; for which 
purpofe he took a uniform out of his portmanteau. 
They all admired it in raptures, efpecially the but- 
tons, which bore the arms of France, and which they 
begged M. de Leffeps would divide amongft ‘them, 
promifing to keep them as a mark of friendfhip, and 
to fhow tiem to all ftrangers, in hopes that fome other 
Frenchman might vifit them. After keeping’ up the 
converfation tolerably well through the medium of 
the guide, who ferved as interpieter, and: regaling 
them with tobacco, having nothing to give them fa 
acceptable, they parted in the moft friendly manner. 
The Tchouktchis telling M. de Leffeps, that he would 
probably foon meet their equipages with their wives, 
whom they had left behind, in order to make the 
greater expedition. In a fhort time after their de- 
parture, the wind lulled, and M. de Leffeps purfued 
his route. | 

The day following, juft as M. de Leffeps had de- 
termined to make a halt, having difcovered near a 
wood a convenient fpot for that purpofe, he perceived, 
at fome diftance from him, a large troop of deer feed- 
ing at liberty on the top of a mountain. On examin- 
ing them more attentively, he diftinguifhed fome men, 
who appeared to be watching them. He knew not 
whether to avoid or join them; but curiofity led him 
to reconnoitre, 

By keeping along the wood, he was told he would 
come up with them, though he imag.ned that at the 
end of it he fhould have to pafs a river, an arm of 
which he had lately crofled. Whilft he was furveying 
thefe people from the oppofite bank, he was approach- 
ed by two women, the elder of whom addreffed him. 
‘hei! | pir How 


How g 
fpoke t 
two. h 
t his, 
to the 
fledges 
him ta 
Int 
fian, fo 
tion. 
as trifle 
their cd 
detaine 
was tra 
feveral 
compa 
throug! 
threate 
of whic 
has lat 
danger 
vife rhe 
which | 
ceeded. 
booty ( 
the tra 
fave th 
hands, 
hufban 
daught 
and ca 
misfor! 
ceafed 
which 
two 01 
The 
which 
cited t 


KAMTSCHATKA. 57 


How great was his furprize to find that they both 
fpoke the Ruffian language. ‘They told him he wag 
two. hundred paces from the camp of the Tchouk- 
tchis, which the wood concealed. In getting down 
to the fide of the river, M. de Lefleps faw their 
fledges and tents, and defired the women to condu& 
him to them. 

In their way, one of them told him fhe was a Ruf- 
fian, following the Tchouktchis from maternal affec- 
tion. Dangers, fatigues, ill treatment, all appeared 
as trifles to her, if fhe could but go with them into 
their country, to claim her daughter, who had been 
detained there as a hoftage. ‘This child, fhe faid, 
was travelling two years before, with her father, and 
feveral other Ruffians, upon the river Pengina. The 
company, confilting of nine perfons, went quietly 
through the middle of the Koriacs, who were then 
threatened by a party of the T'chouktchis, at the head 
of which was <>is very Kherourgi of whom mention 
has latelybec  :'e. To fave themfelves from thefe 
dangerous ne: » cours, the Koriacs determined to ad- 
vife them of the paflage of the ftrangers, as of a prize 
which ought not to elcape them. ‘The artifice fuc- 
ceeded. Seduced by the attraction of an immenfe 
booty of iron and tobacco, the Tchouktchis followed 
the track of the travellers, whofe courage could not 
fave them, and four perifhed with their arms in their 
hands, the victims of a fruitlefs refiftance. The 
hufband of this woman was flain in defending his 
daughter, whom the conquerors tore from his arms, 
and carried cff with three other companions of her 
misfortune. Since that time, the Ruflians had not 
ceafed demanding the releafe of thofe prifoners, of 
which they had obtained a promife; but to that day, 
two only had been fet at liberty. 

The affecting narrative of this unhappy mother, 
which was often interrupted by her tears, readily ex- 
sited the compaflion of M. de Lefleps ; and without 

knowing 


58 TRAVELS FROM 


knowing what weight his mediation would have with 
the Tchouktchis, he was induced to join his:intercef- 
fions with her’s, and had the fatisfaétion to fee they 
were not fruitlefs. ÿ) 

The other woman, he learned, was born a Tchouk- 
tchi. In her infancy the had been taken by the Ruf- 
fians upon the river Anadir, and conduéted to Ya- 
koutfk, where fhe had been baptized, and inftruéted 
as far xs it was poflible. A foldier had afterwards 
married her, and left her a widow in a few years. 
She was then fent back with her children, by order of 
Government, into her own country, that fhe might 
give an account of the obligations fhe was under to 
the Ruflians. [t was recommended to her to fpread 
the circumftances of her hiftory even to the moft dif- 
tant of the Tchouktchis, and to imprefs them with a 
fenfe of the numberlefs advantages thev would find, 
by eftablifhing a jure and friendly commerce with her 
benefaétors. 

She {poke the Ruffian, Yakoute, and ‘Fchouktchi 
languages with equal facility ; and told M. de Lefleps 
that the little light her education had giveri her, had 
gained her a degree of credit amongft her own people. 
That fhe had fo far availed herfelf of the afcendancy 
fhe had gained over their underftandings, as to have 
conquered many of their prejudices, and flattered 
herfelf that the fhould infenfibly lead them to fee their 
true intereft. Her hopes, in this refpeét, were found- 
ed, in great meafure, upon the character of the people ; 
who, fhe aflured M. de Lefleps, were truly hofbieable. 
generous, kind, and in every refpect preferable to the 
Koriacs. 

The converfation of thefe women had fo fafcinated 
M. de Leffeps, that he was in the camp of the T'chouk- 
tchis without perceiving it. Their joy at feeing him 
‘was extreme. Ina minute he was furrounded, and they 
fpoke all at once to prefs him to pafs the night with 
them, No fooner had he anfweredit was his intention 
to 


to do 
railed. 
extrer 
he invi 
ermifl 
Flow 
fible. 
Afte 
took p 
his con 
Ruffia 
Anadi 
of thei 
fake of 
Ruffia 
alfo fo 
fway fe 
country 
fhown 
carefles 
The 
diftruft 
They t 
the Ru 
having 
cion. 
no inte 
of inte 
like th: 
cuous, 
flattere 
though 
propofi 
tent. 
Tob 
the Tc 
cuit m 


KAMTSCHATKA. 59 


to do: fo, than frefh tranfports and clamours were 
raifed. He had ordered his tent to be pitched at the 
extremity of the camp; and whiift this was doing, 
he invited the Chiefs to vifit him. Ready to ufe the 

ermiffion he had given them, they did not wait ta 
Follow him to the tent, which he found as full as pof. 
fible. | 

After the firft compliments, a general converfation 
took place, fuch as had been held with Tummé and 
his companions, They exprefled their fubmiffion to 
Ruffia, and a fincere defire of an eftablifhment on the 
Anadir. ‘They expatiated at length upon the motives 
of their journey ; which had been principally for the 
fake of vifiting fome of their relations, allied to the 
Ruffians, and fettled at Ingiga. Perhaps they had 
alfo fome project of commerce; but the ftrongeft 
fway feemed to have been their attachment to their 
countrymen, which was vifible in the marked regard 
fhown towards the Tchouktchi woman, and in the 
carefles beftowed upon her children. 

They often entreated M. de Leffeps to banifh all 
diftruft, and to affure himfelf of their friendfhip. 
They thought he ftili had fome of the referve which 
the Ruffians fhowed in their interviews. Though not 
having the fame caufe of fear, he was far from fufpi- 
cion. And he made them underftand, that having 
no intention of offending any one, he had no dread 
of interruption ; particularly in the midft of a nation 
like their's, where goodnefs and reétitude were confpi- 
cuous, This reafoning pleafed them, and they feemed 
flattered by his confidence. On which account he 
thought proper to conceal his arms, and to reject the 
propofition of his foldiers, of having a fentinel at his 
tent. ' 

Tobacco was diftributed to the moft diftinguifhed of 
the Tchouktchis, and afterwards tea ferved, with bif- 
cuit made of rye. Their Chief, or Prince, named 

; Che- 


60 ‘TRAVELS FROM 


Chegouiagua, who was equal in rank and authority 
to Tummé, with two of his relations, and his two 
- wives, who ferved as interpreters, fupped with M. de 
Lefleps. The repaft was very frugal, but very chear- 
ful. Want of reft feparated them, and they went 
away as contented as if they had the beft cheer fn the 
world. 

© The camp of thefe Tchouktchis, whch confifted of 
a dozen tents, {tretched along the border of the river, 
near their equipages, and at the back of the wood. 
The tents were of a fquare form, made of rein deer 
fkin, and fufpended by leather ftraps to poles planted 
at the four corners. Bundles of lances and arrows 
were fixed in the fnow, to defend the entrance of 
each, which was very low, and fo clofely faftened as 
to exclude air. The dread of being furprized in the 
night by the Koriacs, made them take this precaution. 
As for the beds, they refembled thofe of the Kamt- 
fchadales ; which were merely thin branches of trees 
fpread like litter, and covered with deer fkin. And 
there, in a fpace fo narrow, that it was not ealy to 
conceive how fo many could croud, a whole family 
flept, without the fmalleft attention to age or fex. 
The air was therefore very offenfive ; and, it muft be 
fufficient to fay, that they were indolent, and not 
very cleanly. — 

In the number of the Tchouktchis, which might 
be forty, were fifteen or fixteen women, with as many 
children, who were occupied in preparing the tents 
and victuals. Polygamy, or, rather, a promifcuous 
intercourfe, was licenfed among them; and it was 
even a politenefs to compliment their guefts with their 
wives and daughters. A refufal was deemed an in- 
fult. Each of the principal perfonages had his fer- 
vant to take care of the deer, and to defend them in 
the night again{t the wolves, which infeft thofe 
coafts. Fes 
The drefs of the women was fingular. It confiftea 

| of 


-of a fin 


‘their fh 


it was 
fcended 
low the 
ing at tl 
was by 
chin, a 
travel t 
boots m 
which ig 
on the 
the fore 
trefles. 
orname 
cold, t 
The 
agreeab 
pleafing 
but not 
clumfy 


and wat 
ufe: th 
The 
out any 
the wor 
fledges, 
thofe o! 
Thef 
giga. — 


_ of autu 


beginni 
their bi 
fet out 
vantage 
ever, t| 
The ar 
with t 


KAMTSCHATKA. 


-of a fingle deer fkin, which hung to the rieck, where 

it was open ‘before and behind, and where it de- 
fcended in the form of large breeches or trowfers be- 
low the knee. It was put on by means of the open- 
ing atthe neck; and the only way of taking it off, 
was by untying the ftrings which faftened it under the 
chin, and it then dropt down altogether. When they 
travel they wear a kouklank: over this habit, with 
boots made of the legs of the rein-deer. : Their hair, 
which is a deep black, is fometimes tied up in tufts, 
on the back of the head; but oftener fepirated on 
the forehead, and hanging down their tides in long 
treffes. Their ears and necks are loaded with glafs 
ornaments of different colours; and when they are 
cold, the hood of the parque ferves as a covering, 

The counteninces of the women have nothing 
agreeable: their features are large, but ftill more 
pleafing than the Kamtfchadales They are taller, 
but not fo flender; and their drefs gives them a 
clumfy air. Meantime the hardeft labour falls to 
‘their fhare ; fuch as lighting the fire, carrying wood, 
and water, and every thing neceflary for houfehold 
ufe: the old ones, principally, are thus employed. 

The features of the men were more regular, with- 
out any thing Afiatic. Their complexion, as well as 
the women’s, was very fwarthy ; and their drefs, their 
fledges, all their cuftoms,. in fhort, were exactly like 
thofe of the wandering Koriacs. 

Thefe Tchouktchis take every year a journey to In- 
giga. ‘They leave their own country in the beginning 
of autumn, and do not arrive at that fettlement till the 
beginning of March. The moment they have finifhed 
their bufinefs, for which a few days is fufficient, they 
fet out on their return, that they may not lofe the ad- 
vantage of travelling in fledges. It is feldom, how- 
ever, that they reach home before the end of June. 
The articles of merchandize which they carry out 
with them, are parques, made of fable or of fox 

| fkins ; 


62 ‘TRAVELS PROM 


fkins ; and the teeth of the morfe, which produce 
excellent ivory. In exchange they take kettles, to. 
bacco, lances, fufils, knives, and other inftruments of 
iron. Little accuflomed yet to the fufil, they do not 
make much ufe of it; but, on the other hand, they 
are exceedingly dextrous in direéting an arrow, or 
in the management of a lance : thefe, therefore, are 
their principal weapons. Like all the inhabitants of 
the north, they are greatly inclined to inebriety ;: and 
fuch is their paffion for brandy, that from the moment 
any is given to them, you muft keep pouring it out 
for them till they are completely drunk. Lefs than 
this, they upon as an infult: and will perhaps go 
fo far as to ufe menaces and violence, in order to 
procure it. ‘They are as ardent fmokers as the Ko. 
tiacs, and make ufe of the fame kind of pipe, and 
method of filling it. 

Determined not to ftop any longer, M. de Leffeps 
went at day-break to take leave of the Tchouktchis 
in their tents. The parting was tender: they em- 
braced him in turn, and he could not but be fully 
fenfible of the hofpitable reception he had experienced 
among them. He fet out early, in order to go that 
day near thirty werfts. Half way he met, on the 
fea coaft, with two balagans, and one yourte, inabit- 
ed by a family of Koriacs. An hour afierwards he 
reached the village of Pareiné, which is not fo large 
as Kaminoi, but contains a greater number of peo- 
ple, and is commodioufly fituated on the river whence 
it takes its name, about three werfts from the place 
where it empties itfelf into the fea of Penyina ; which 
forms here fo narrow a gulf, that, in fine weather, it 
is eafy to fee from one fhore to the other. 

The firft perfon M. de Lefleps met in this village 
was an old woman of a mixed breed, whofe afflicted 
air caught his attention. Compaffion and curiofity 
led him to accoft her. His queftions upon the caufe 
of her forrow drew from her a piercing cry, and tears 

were 


were | 
pathy « 
Fift 
with fd 
to Par 
way b 
often 
felves, 
fame fl 
fhelter 
the ro: 
uled t 
were fc 
appear 
their ft 
fake of 
had dic 
fortuna 
edge ¢ 
fhe anc 
tigue, 
during 
the hea 
and pie 
unfervi 
woman 
into he 
to furn 
to folic 
tlowed 
how to 
but not 
tance, | 
no othe 
Whi 
tants o 
chief 6: 
ed toi 


roduce 
ents of 
do not 
, they 
Ww, or 
‘€, are 
ants of 
sand 
oment 
it out 
s than 
aps go 
der to 
1e Ko. 
+, and 


Léfleps 
iktchis 
y eni- 
2 fully 
ienced 
ro that 
n the 
nabit- 
ds he 
) large 
f mab. 
hence 
place 
which 
er, it 


illage 
Aicted 
riofity 
caufe 
tears 
were 


KAMTSCHATKA: 


were her only anfwer, Entreaties and a fhow of fym- 
pathy obtained at length the recital of her misfortune. 

Fifteen days back, herfelf, her hufband and fon, 
with feveral triends, had left Ingiga in order to come 
to Pareiné to fee their relations. Overtaken in the 
way by one of thofe terrible hurricanes, which had 
often alarmed M. de Leffeps, the travellers loft them. 
felves, and were feparated. ‘The father and fon in the 
fame fledge, after wandering a long while in fearch of 
fhelter, or for fome mark by which they could recover 
the road, utierly perifhed. The greatelt pains were 
uled to difcover them, and at the end of two days they 
were found buried in the fnow frozen to death, It 
spReates from their pofture, that having exhaufted 
their ftrength, thefe two unhappy creatures, for the 
fake of warmth, had lain down clofe together, and 
had died in each other’s arms. ‘The woman, more 
fortunate than her hufband, had found fhelter on the 
edge of a river fifteen werfts from Pareiné, where 
fhe and her companions arrived, worn out with fa- 
tigue, and overwhelmed with grief. She added, that 
during the tempeit, they were not able to diflinguith 
the heaven from the earth. The fnow froze as it fell, 
and pierced their clothes, fo as to render them ncarl 
unferviceable ; but what incrcafed the affliction of this 
woman, was the not having it in her power to return 
into her own country, No one there fecmed difpofed 
to furnifh her with the means, which fhe continued 
to folicit in vain. At thefe words a torrent of tears 
flowed down her cheeks. M. de Lefleps knew not 
how to comfort her; he faid all that pity fuggefted ; 
but not having it in his power to afford her any aflif. 
tance, he left her with regret that he could give her 
no other teftimony than barren compaflion. 

Whilft he was talking with the woman, the inhabi- 
tants of Pareiné had aflembled round him ; and their 
chief or prince, whofe name was Youltitka, approach- 
ed to invite him to pafs the night in his village, 

Something 


64 TRAVELS FROM 


Something in his countenance confirmed the reports 
of his perfidy, and M. de Leffeps gave him to under- 
ftand, that he had no defire of topping. On this re- 
fufal; he obfetved the impoffibility of procuring dogs 
or provifion till the morning. ‘Yhe reafons he affign- 
ed plainly fhowed an evil difpoñition. And his ill 
treatment of a failor who had been fent the preceding 
year with letters from Government, led M: de Leffops 
to fufpeët the badnefs of his intentions at prefent. Re- 
folved, therefore, to get away at all events, he replied 
he muft give up what could not be obtained, but that 
nothing fhould oblige him to ftay. Youltitka pre- 
tended not to underitand him; und mentioned a frefh 
obftacle ; at the fame time putting on a contemptu- 
ous fmile which feemed to defy his departure. M. 
de Lefleps perceived the neceffity of arming himfelf 
with more refolution, or of fubmitting to whatever 
this villain might think proper to impofe. ‘The whole 
village was prefent. Two hundred men at leaft preff- 
ed tumultuoufly upon him, either to ftrike him with 
terror, or to obferve his embarraffment. In this pe- 
rilous conjuncture, he thought of addrefling them in 
the Ruffian language; hoping that in the number 
there might be fome who would underftand him, and 
who would be more tractable than their chief, 

His harangue was fhort, but earneft. Afferting 
his right as a ftranger to their affiftance, and urging 
the refpect which his conduét had never failed to in- 
fure from all their countrymen; that far from ever 
having occafion to intreat or to fhow the orders he 
carried, his demands had always been prevented. 

At the word orders, he perceived the people look 
at each other with aftonifhment ; and in prorortion 
as his difcourfe feemed to make an impreffion on 
them, he increafed his warmth and affurance. Till 
at length taking out his paffport, and darting an in- 
dignant look on Youltitka, he prefented it to him, and 
declared that he fhould go on in two hours at molt. 


This | 


to def 
nary ¢ 
power 
been : 
pentec 
He w: 
in cafe 

The 
feat of 
ferved 
very 1 
of thi 
report 
round 
with t 
tions, 
his fa 


M. 
imfelf 
atever 
whole 
prefl- 
| with 
is pe- 
em in 
amber 
1, and 


prting 
reg 
to in- 

ever 
prs he 


look 
ortion 


on on 
Till 
an in- 
1, and 
molt. 
This | 


KAMTSCHATKA. 65 


This abrupt conclafion difconcerted him. He faw 
that he could not fafely hold out any longer. ‘The 
Governor’s mandate was too formal and too direét for 
him to dare to oppofe it. He, therefore, ordered 
the quantity of fifh, that M. dé Leffeps requefted, to 
be collected, begging him at the fame time to have 
fome:regard to the fcantinefs of their provifions, which 
would thus be greatly diminifhed. It was that, he 
fdid, had led him to thtow any difficulties in the way; 
as he was afraid their ftores would be exhaufted. But 
this was 4 mere fubterfuge, there being fufficient proof 
that they were abundantly provided. 

Meantime, to look as if he meant to make amends 
for his uncivil reception, he invited M. de Leffeps to 
wait in his yourte while the people were preparing for 
his departure. Unwilling to fhew any figns of unea- 
finefs, M. de Lefleps accepted the invitation, and of: 
fered.to give him a better repaft than he could proba- 
bly provide. He was not, however, perfectly at his 
eafe, when he found, that to go into this yourte, he had 
to defcend fifty feet under-ground. ‘lhe extraordi- 
nary depth of this retreat gave him up at once to the 
power of his hoft. His own people would never have 
been able to hear him nor to fuccour him. He re- 
pented his imprudence, but there was no time to recede. 
He was well armed, and prepared to defend himfelf, 
in cafe of infult. 

The firft care of Youltitka was to place him in the 
feat of honour; that is, in the alcove, or recefs, re- 
ferved for the head of the family, which here was 
very mumerous, there being nearly eighty inhabitants 
of this yourte! They had all been drawn out by the 
report of M. de Leffeps’ arrival, and ftill remained 
round his attendants ; fo that he had fingly to contend 
with three or four of Youltitka’s companions or rela- 
tions, who examined him with their nofes almoft in 
his face. Imagining they talked the Ruffian lan- 
guage wonderfully well, becaufe they could lamely 

Vol. IT. (E) utter 


66 TRAVELS FROM 


utter a few words, they afked him the abfurdeft quef. 
tions, one after another. His fituation made com- 
plaifance highly neceffary, and he anfwered them with 
politenefs and precifinn. An hour was pañled amidit 
thefe barbarous animals, who were formed to intimi- 
date, particularly their Chief, than whom it is difficult 
to imagine a man more completely ugly. He was fat 
and fhort, his face feamed with the fmall-pox, befides 
other wounds; he had a fullen countenance, ‘with 
black hair that joined enormous eye-brows, under. 
which was one eye only, funk and fierce. Such was 
the exact portraiture of this Koriac Prince. 

M. de Leffeps’ foldier had not entered the yourte, 
and he began to be very uneafy. In attempting to 
go out, the Koriacs placed themfelves before him; 
and one of them took him by the arm, to make him 
refume his feat, afking, at the fame time, if he want- 
ed to fave himfelf. He put a good face upon it, and 
fat down again; and, in fpite of the alteration, 
which could not but be feen in his countenance, he 
replied, that he did not imagine there was any thing 
to fear. Youltitka then endeavoured to give him confi- 
dence ; he affured him that he was in perfect fafety ; 
his paft conduct, he added, might have appeared fuf- 
picious ; but he thought it neceffary for his honour to 
clear that up. Proud of having had a feat among 
the judges of the tribunal at Ingiga, he had his re- 
putation too much at heart to fuffer M. de Leffeps to 
be ill treated before him. 

M. de Leffeps knew his man too well to place any 
faith in fuch fine proteftations, and thought himfelf 
happy that Youltitka dared not to do what he might, 
and what he probably wifhed to do. He hifted then 
to quit the yourte, under pretence of feeing where 
his people were, and to give direétions for dinner. 
Still he could not rid himfelf of this perfidious Ko- 
riac, who perfifted in accompanying him whilft he 
was aflembling his fuit. Every word feemed to alarm 

him ; 


KAMTSCHATKA. 67 


him; and not underftanding Ruffian, he required an 
immediate interpretation, and watched every motion 
with fingular attention. 

M. de Leffeps found his pere occupied in: barter- 
ing the bad dogs that were left, for furs and clothing 
of deer-fkin. Their avarice had made them forget his 
commands, and the danger in which they had left 
him. He, however, concealed his difpleafure, on 
account of the witneffes, and defcended again into 
the yourte, followed by Youltitka and his two fol. 
diers, who immediately fet themfelves to get dinner. 
The women affifted in cleaning the difhes, which they 
did with the fcrapings of a ftick, inftead of a cloth 
or towel ; and, by degrecs, with the help of brandy, 
good humour took place of fear and diftruft. They 
made a joyous repaft, and M. de Leffeps prevailed on 
himfelf to join their violent fits of laughter, in order 
to convince them of his fatistaétion. A boifterous 
expreffion of fentiment is the only thing that ¢leafes 
them. The dinner ended, he fent one of hi: foldiers 
to order the dogs to be harneffed, a par: of which had 
been recruited ; the provifions were loided, and in 
ten minutes he was ready to bid the Koriacs adieu, 
They appeared very much fatisfied with him, whether 
they were fo or not. As for M de Leffeps, he was 
perfectly fo in being delivered from them. and was 
off as faft as poffible. It was only two o’clock, and 
he thought it proper to take advantage of the reft of 
the day, for the lofs of time he had unavoidably en- 
dured ; and therefore would not ftop till he had gone 
fifteen werfts from Pareiné. 

The road, that and the following day, offered no. 
thing remarkable. For fome time he had lived upon 
the flefh of rein-deer, which, though de’icaie food, 
eafily cloyed. The worft was, that but litile of it re- 
mained ; fo that they eat it but once a Jay, and made up 
‘their other meals with dried ‘ith, and {ea-wolf boiled. 
To day, which was the 3oth, M. de Leffeps killed a 

: (E 2) brace 


68 TRAVELS PROM 


brace of partridges, and added them to the ftew. 
The weather was remarkably fine, and the hopes of 
its continuance raifed the fpirits of the guides, and 
tempted them to make a good day's work. They did 
not halt till very late, in a fpot quite unfheltered, 
finding on ya kind of {mall cedar tree, which grew 
fraggling and crooked. 

On the 3:ft, they had juft, packed up the tents, 
when they defcried a train of five fledges of Koriacs, 
drawn by rein:deer. The dogs, allured by the fcent 
of thefe animals, made after them with aftonifhing 
ardour, and would have infallibly fallen upon them, 
had they been within reach. It was with difficulty 
that they were reftrained; and M. de Leffeps and his 
party endeavoured to make the Koriacs underftand 
that al they wanted was a moment’s converfation 
with them. A council was held, and, after fome 
minutes, one of them was detached towards M. de 
Leffeps, but ftopped at the diftance of about three 
hundred paces, and made figns for him to fend one of 
his people to meet him, and above ail, to keep in the 
dogs. One of the foldiers was therefore fent on. to 
the Koriac, to enquire what road they were going, 
whence they came, whether they knéw any thing 
relative to M. Kafloff, and, principally, how far they 
were from Ingiga? 

In half an hour the meflenger returned with the 
information, that they were wandering Koriacs, re- 
turning from Ingiga, whither they had been to fell 
their deer-fkins, and to fee their friends . They 
thought they had heard of a reiuforcement of dogs 
and provifions having been lately fent to the Gover- 
nor General, but they were not certain. The dif- 
tance from Ingiga was faid to be from fifty to fifty- 
five werfis. 

It was now fix o’clock in the morning, and in the 
courle of this day’s journey, which M. de Leffeps 
hoped would carry him to Ingiga, he greatly ailonifh- 

ed 


‘guides 


conjur 
mifes ¢ 


aliurin 
o'clock 
quarte 
ciently 


- and r 


half p: 
afcribit 
magic 

Ingi 
town 1 
a rive 
mo th 
aftonif 
woode: 
Each « 
of ami 
day, as 
of whi 
oblive 
furpril 
and m 
volt, 2 
pected 
make : 
them t 
fquare. 
wood : 
and uy 


KAMTSCHATKA. 69 
ed and diverted his people, by undertaking to condu& 
them by means of his compafs, telling the guides to 
acquaint him only if they fh:uld lofe their way. By 
half paft eight a violent tempeft, which M. de Leffeps 
‘had predicted, feem d to be coming on apace, and 
drove fe.eral of the fledges out of the road, The 
‘guides, blinded by the wind, became terrified, and 
conjured him to halt; but he only re: ewed his pro- 
mifes and his orders, and the fituatio\ of Ingiga hav- 
ing been pointed out to him, perfifted in going on; 
aliuring them that if they did not arrive there by nine 
o'clock, he would go no farther that night. At a 
quarter before nine the f reft of Ingiga was fuffi- 
ciently difcered. They had then no with to ftop, 
and :rofling the river that rin under the walls, at 
half paft eleven they ente‘ed the town ; not without 
afcribing to M. de Lefleps the grearelt proficiency in 
magic which they had ever witneffed. 

Ingiga was the molt confider ible and moft populous 
town M. de Lefleps had yet feen. It is fituate i upon 
a river of the fame name, thirty werlts from its 
mo th, encompaffed in a fquare of palifades of an 
aftonifhing height and thicknefs. ani defended by 
wooden baftions raifed on piles ac the four angles. 
Each of thele baftions, armed with cannon and plenty 
of ammunition, is guarded by fentine!s night and 
day, as are alfo the three gates of the town, one only 
of which is kept open. ‘Thefe fentinels are conftantly 
oblised to obferve the greateft alertnefs, for fear of a 
furprife from the neighbouring Koriacs, whofe bold 
and mutinous difpofition frequently leads them to re- 
volt, and to attack the town in a moment of fuf- 
pected negligence; they are therefore not fuffered to 
make any ftay in the town, whenever bufinefs leads 
them thither. Before the Governor’s houfe is a {mall 
fquare, defended by 2 guard. ‘The houfes were all of 
wood and low ; but they had all a front nearly regular, 
and upon the fame plan. It was the intention of M. 

(E 3) Gaguen 


70 . TRAVELS FROM 


Gaguen to improve and beautify the town by degrees. 
The ifbas, built fince his arrival, joined to an agree- 
able appearance all the interior advantages of which 
fuch habitations were capable. He had alfo a project 
to rebuild the church, the conftruétion of which was 
fhockingl; it was, befides, going to decay, 

The town contained from four to five hundred in- 
habitants, who were either traders, or in the fervice 
_of government : the latter formed the major part, 
and compofed the garrifon. They were fubject to a 
fevere difcipline, which the frequent neceffity of de- 
fence rendered indifpenfible. In this refpe& the vi- 
gilance and zeal of the governor left nothing want- 
ing. There were the fame tribunals as at Nijenei- 
-Kamtichatka. 

Furs, and principally the fkins of the rein-deer, 
make the trade of Ingiga; and, in general, they 
have a greater diverfity of fkins, and thofe of a fupe- 
rior quality, than are to be found at Kamtfchatka. It 
is in that ifland that.they get the fkins of the otter and 
of the fea-wolf ; but the fables are not fo beautiful as 
at Ingiga, though they are more common. Befides, 
the Kamtfchadales have no common martens, or Ame- 
rican rats, called riflei, which the Koriacs procure in 
exchange from their neighbours the Tchouktchis, and 
which they import to Ingiga with their deer fkins, 
Thefe they fell raw, and at a good price: they are 
_ afterwards tinned, and prepared with fo admirable an 
art, as to defy the want of Euiopean inftruments. 
Gloves and ftockings are remarkably well made. 
. Their fewing and embroidery is done with the hair of 
the rein deer, with filk or gold, and would do credit 
to the moft dextrous glover. 

At Ingiga M. de Leffeps met with a Koriac Prince, 
named UOumiavin, whom he had bcfore feen at Kami- 
noi- He was alfo a zafsédatel, or Ingiga judge, and 
had come hither to offer his fervices to M. de Leffeps. 
He was a moft intelligent man, fpoke the Ruffian lan- 


guage 


rees. 
pree- 
hich 
oject 

was 


d in- 
rvice 
part, 
to a 
’ de- 
e vi- 
vant. 
enei- 


deer, 
they 
[upe- 
lt 
and 
ul as 
ides, 
\me- 
re in 
and 
kins, 
y are 
le an 
ents. 
lade. 
ir of 
redit 


ince, 
ami- 

and 
Teps. 
lan- 
uage 


KAMTSCHATKA. 71 


guage perfectly well, and appeared to have great rec- 
ti.ude of mind. His notions of religion were ex- 
traordinary ; having a great defire to become a Chrif- 
tian, but f r fome favourite tenets belonging to there- 
ligion of his country ; particularly its offering, as he 
faid, more hope than fear, and confinirg ts punifh- 
ments to the prefeni world, with the expe:tation of 
happinefs only in the next. He was brother to a 
Chief of the wandering Koriacs, and from him M. 
de Lefleps got much information refpeéting that peo- 
ple in general. 

There is, in many refpeëts, a great refemblance be- 
tween the fixed and windering Koriacs. It appears 
the more ftrange that there fh ould be fo little union, 
and fuch a miiunderftanding between them, as to 
make them almoit two different people. They are, 
neverthelefs, of one country, which is of vaft ex- 
tent ; bounded towards the fouth by the peninfula of 
Kamtfchatka and the gulf of Pengina, on the eaft by 
the country of the Oluierians, towards the north by 


that of the Tchoukichis, and on the weft by the Toun- 


goufes, the Lamouts, and the Yakouts. 

It was afferted that that country had formerly been 
well peopled, but that the fmall-pox had taken off 
great numbers. M. de Leffeps doubied whether it 
had deftroyed more than their frequent contefts with 
the Ruflians and their other neighboutrs. The num- 
ber of fixed Koriacs was then eftimated at nine hun- 
dred ; and though it was hardly poffible juftly to cal- 
culate that of the wanderers, they were not fuppofed 
much to exceed the former. 

The manners of the fixed Koriacs had nothing efti- 
mable ; they were a mixture of duplicity, of diftruft 
and avarice. They had all the vices. of the nations 
north of Afia, and none of their virtues. Robbers 
by nature, they were fufpicious, cruel, without either 
benevolence or pity. To obtain any fervice from 
them, it was not only neceflary to offer them a recom- 

; É (E 4) pence, 


72 TRAVELS FROM 
pence, but to give it beforehand. Nothing but pre. 
fents can prevail on ther:to ftir. | 

With a difpofition fo perfidious and favage, it was 
not eafy for them to live in peace, nor to form any 
lafting alliances with their neighbours. So unfoci- 
ab'e a temper made them naturally jealous of foreign 
dominicn. Hence their continual infurreétions againft 
the Ruffians, their atrocious robberies, their daï y in- 
curfions upon the people round them, and that re- 
aay vengeance which was continually fhowing it- 
felf. 

1f any thing can add to this abominable piéture, it 
was that inflexibility of courage, deferving rather the 
name of barbaiifm, that directed all their combats, 
and that was attended with a contempt of life. No- 
thing intimidated them. If the valour or number of 
their enemies threatened danger, they then fwore to 
“ deftroy the fun.” An oath which they difcharged, 
by firft killing their wives and children, and burning 
all their poffeffions, and then throwing themfelves 
with fury into the midft of the enemy. The total 
deftruction of one of the two parties ends the con- 
teft. The vanquifhed never think of faving themfelves 
by flight. Honour forbids this to the Koriacs, not 
one of whom will furvive the death of his compa- 
nions. 

Their acquaintance with the Ruffians had not yet 
produced any change in the manner of life of the fixed 
Koriacs. Their trading intercourfe had only made 
them fenfible of the attraction of riches and plunder ; 
and indifferent to the advantages ef a more polifhed 
life, 1hey rejeéted civilization, confidering their own 
manners and cuftoms as good as poffible. Hunting 
and fifhing are their habitual occupations ; but when 
the feafon will vot allow this, they fhut themfelves 
up in their caves, to fleep, fmoke, and get drunk, 
Carelefs of the future, and without regret for the 
patt, they leave their yourtes only when urgent ne- 
ceflity 


ceflity 
like t 
fat of 
18 CO 
in the 
marro 
are de 
deer i 
vegete 
berrie 
veragé 
the «i 
which 
cating 
poifo 
This i 
it has 
feaft, 
is exp 
they e 
tempe! 
faw fo 
culty. 

The 
gular. 
in wh 

Am 
of cot 
has fiz 
of his 
the te 
up wi 
hardly 
Her r 
where 
of her 
the or 


fkin. 


1 Os wo POO D fiw 0 De 


b 


KAMTSCHATKA. 73 


ceffity conftrains them. Foes to labour, they live, 
like the Kamtfchadales, on dried fifh, the flefh and 
fat of the whale, and of the fea-wolf ; one of which 
is commonly eaten raw, the other dried and cooked 
in the fame manner as the fifh; but the finews, the 
marrow, and the brains, often pieces of the fieth, 
are devoured raw with barbarous avidity. The rein- 
deer is their highcft efteemed food. They have alfo 
vegetables, and gather in the autumn different forts of 
berries, with fome of which they make refrefhing be- 
verages, and others are bruifed and kneeded up with 
the oil of the whale or fea-wolf. Inftead of brandy, 
which is dear and fcarce, they have a liquor as intoxi- 
cating, made of a red mufhroom, ufed in Ruffia as a 
poifon to deftroy infeëts, and, called moukhamorr, 
This is put into a veffel with certain fruits, and before 
it has time to get clear, the friends. are invited to a 
feaft, which lafts two or three days, or tiil the liquor 
is expended ; and often, to infure the lofs of reafon, 
they eat the mufhroom raw. The effe&s of this in- 
temperance were feldom fatal, though M. de Leffeps 
faw fome made feverely ill, and recovered with diffi- 
culty. 

The women carry their children in a cradle of a fin- 
gular form. It is a kind of bafket with an arched top, 
in which the child fits under cover. 

Among their moft extraordinary cuftoms, are thofe 
of courtfhip and marriage, As foon as a young man 
has fixed his choice, he prefents himfelf to the parents 
of his miftrefs, and offers to work for them: that is 
the term, From that moment the girl is fo covered 
up with a great number of garments, that her face is 
hardly to be feen. She is never alone an inftant, 
Her mother and feveral elderly matrons follow her 
wherever fhe goes, lie at her fide, and never lofe fight 
of her on any pretence. All the care of the lover, as 
the only means of obtaining her, is to touch her naked 
fin, Meantime he fulfils, with zeal and refignation, 

the 


74 TRAVELS FROM 


the duties impofed upon him by the parents. Become 
the flave of the family, he is employed in every kind 
of domeftic labour ; fuch as going to cut wood, car- 
rying water, and providing ice. Love. and the pre- 
fence of his future wife, fupply him with refolution ; 
and a fingle regard, however indifferent, makes him 
forget the fatigue and pain of fervitude. The hope of 
abridging this directs all his actions. His eye is 
conftantly fixed on the idol of his heart ; he watches 
all her motions, purfues her fteps, and inceffantly 
throws himfelf in ae way. But to deceivethe Argus 
eyes of thofe furrounding her, is a continued {truggle 
between vigilance and addrefs. In moments of lei- 
fure, at liberty to fee and approach his miftrefs, he 
fometimes endeavours to obtain his end by ftealth ; 
but the number and thicknefs of her clothes is an in- 
fuperable barrier. Enraged by fo many obftacles, he 
tears and pulls off thefe vexatious coverings. Woe 
be to him if he is caught! The mother and the in- 
flexible duennas force him to quit his prize, with 
kicks or with a ftick. Should he refift or murmur, 
he is immediately difcarded, and lofes for ever the 
hopes of an alliance, which is the higheft affront an 
amorous Koriac can receive. Difficulties, however, 
fharpen his defire. Far from complaining, or being 
difcouraged by thefe rigours, he believes he fhall, on 
that account, become more worthy of the happinefs 
which is promifed him. Two or three years are fre- 
quently paffed before his difficulties are furmounted. 
P oud of a viétory, he haftens to announce it to the pa- 
rents The: witneffes are fummoned, the girl muft 
confefs, and muft prove that fhe in vain made efforts 
to defend herfelf, though it is not impoffible that, 
equally defirous with her lover to put an end to this 
l.borious novitiate, fhe acknowledges herfelf touched 
before it has really happened. Her hand is then 
given to the conqueror, who is ftill obliged to wait 
till he is aflured that the young lady can prea upon 
erfe 


KAMTSCHATKA, 75 
herfelf to live with him. From this moment. he is 
exempt from all labour, and pays his court, without 
conftraint, to his future bride, who is not forry ta 
find herfelf delivered from her weight of clothing. 
Thijs fecond courtfhip feldom lafts long. She foon, 
in the prefence of her family, gives her confent, and 
that is fufficient to eftablifh the righis of a hufband. 
The ceremony and the nuptial feaft end the bufinefs, 
by afiembling the relations, who emuloufly get drunk 
after the example of the new married couple, A plu- 
rality of wives was interdiéted among the Koriacs, 
though M. de Leffeps had feen inftances of it, 

At their funerals they adhere to many ancient 
Pagan inftitutions, ftill in ufe among the diffe- 
rent barbarous nations of the new hemifphere. 
When a Kori:c dies, his next of kin, and his friends, 
affemble to pay him the laft duties. A funeral pile is 
prepared, on which is depofited a part of the riches 
belonging to the defun&, as well as fome kind of food, 
fuch as rein-deer, fifth, brandy; in a word, all that it 
is thought will be neceflary for his great journey, 
and to prevent his dying of hunger in the other world. 
If it is a wandering Koriac, his rein-deer draw him 
to the pile; if one of the fixed tribe, he is drawn by 
his dogs, or carried by his relations. The body is 
expofed, clothed in the beft garments of the deceafed, 
and laid in a kind of coffin. There the lait farewel is 
made by the affiftants, who, armed with torches, con- 
fider it an honour to reduce their relation or friend to 
afhes as quickly as poffible. His lofs is felt only as a 
temporary abfence, and not as an eternal feparation. 
They have no mourning, and the funeral pomp is 
terminated by a feaft of the family, where the fumes 
of liquor and tobacco efface, by degrees, the remem. 
brance of the dead! After a few months of widow- 
hood, the women are allowed to marry again. 

The religion of thefe people, which is exactly that — 
of the Tchouktchis, and of the Kamtfchadales before 

the 


76 TRAVELS FROM 


the introduction of Chriftianity, teaches them the ac- 
knowledgment of a Supreme Being, the Creator of 
all things, who inhabits the fun. ‘They neither fear 
this Being nor adore him. No prayer is ever ad- 
drefled to him. His effence is goodnefs, and he can 
do noill. He is the caufe of all good. 

The p incipal of evil is a wicked fpirit, who divides 
the empire of natureswith the former. Their power 
is equal In proportion as one ftudies the happinefs 
of mankind, this other endeavours to render him mi- 
ferable. Difeafes, tempefts, famine, and all kinds of 
plagues are his work, and the inftruments of his ven- 
geance. Todifarm him of this, perfonal interet is en- 
gaged, and devotion applied. tear, with which this 
. menacing deity arrefts the heart, is the fentiment that 
diétates homage. To him they offer animals newly 
born, rein-dee:, dogs, the firft fruits of hunting and 
fifhing, with every thing particularly precious. The 
only prayers addreffed him are thofe of petition and 
thankfgiving. But he has neither temple nor fanc- 
tuary in which his votaries can aflemble. He is every 
where equally adored. He hears the Koriac who 
prays alone in the defart, as well as the family who 
think to render him propitious by getting pioufly 
drunk in the yourte. For the habit of inebriety is 
become, with thefe people, a religious practice, and 
the foundation of every folemnity. 

This demon, this formidable fpirit, is, without 
doubt, the fame as the Koutka, of whom the Kamt- 
fchadale chamans call themfelves the minifters and 
organs. Here, as in that peninfula, the myfterious 
language of thefe forcerers impofe ‘upon the credu- 
lity, and attract the refpe& of the multitude. They 
exercife medicine and furgery with the fame fuccefs. 
Thefe exclufive funGions, which are fuppofed to be 
affifted by infpiration more than by the help of expe- 
rience, infure them unbounded power. They as 

ee | calle 


KAMTSCHATKA. 77 


called upon from all parts, and teftimonies of acknow- 
ledgment prodigally lavifhed on them in advance. 
They haughtily exaét what they pleafe, and receive as 
a tribute. whatever. is given them. It is always under 
the title of an offering to the God who fpeaks through 
them, that they appropriate to themfelves the beft and 
the fineft of what the inhabitants of this country pof- 
fefs. ‘Ihey pretend to faft the whole! day preceding 
any, of their magic ceremonies; but in the evening 
they make amends by eating and drinking abundantly 
of the moukhamorr, that intoxicating poifon already 
defcribed. | 

The pronunciation of the Koriacs has na affinity ta 
that of the Kamtfchadales ; it is more fhrilland flower, 
but lefs painful, having none of thofe extraordinary 
founds, thofe whiftlings, which are as difficult to ute 
ter as to write. : 

From the time of M. de Lefleps’ arrival at Ingiga, 
M. Gaguen, at his intreaties, had been providing the 
means of his departure as foon as poffible. Had it 
depended on himfelf, he would not have ftopt more 
than four and twenty hours; but unfortunately his 
dogs were harrafled, and a very fmall number could 
be procured inthe town, and they no better. It wag 
therefore propofed, that he fhould: take rein-deer, to 
which he readily agreed, as a quicker method of tra- 
velling, though more hazardous and: fatiguing. 

In order to fati:fy his impatience, and’ enable him 
to purfue his journey with as few obftacles as poflible, 
M. Gaguen refolved to confult with the Chiefs of the 
wandering Koriacs that were in the neighbourhood ; 
and in confequence fent an invitation to them. In 
two days twelve of thefe Princes arrived with feveral 
other Koriacs, whom the Governor had equally ape 
prifed. | 

After the ufual compliments, M. de Leffeps was 
prefented to the aflembly ; at the fame time, an intcr- 
preter fummarily explained to them who he was, the 

importance 


78 THAVELS FROM 


importance of his embafly, and the need he had of 
their affiftance, A ange murmur fucceeded this 
fhort explanation. They defpifed the orders of go- 
vernment, and alledged that the fixed Koriacs were as 
much bound to convey ftrangers as they. Their re- 
monftrances, which feemed to be well founded, 
though ill humoured, greatly difconcerted M, de Lef- 
feps, till an old Prince took up his caufe, and pro- 
mifed if any of them would conduct him to his dwel- 
lings he would carry him on as far as might be ne- 
ceflary. This addrefs brought them to their fenfes, 
and covered them with confufion. E ch endeavoured 
to excu'pate himfelf, and M. de Leffeps had excufes 
and offers in abundance. There was even a conten- 
tion who fhould tranfport him and his effeéts as far 
as the Stoudenaia-reka, or Cold River, on the borders 
of which dwelt the kind Piince who had at firft fo 
willingly entered into his fervice. Every difficulty 
vanifhed ; and his departure was fixed for the 5th of 
April, on which day the whole affembly undertook 
to attend his orders. M. de Leffeps was delighted to 
find that the perfon to whom he was fo particularly 
indebted, was the brother of Oumiavin, with whom 
he had fo much wifhed to be acquainted. 

From this inftant M. Gaguen put every thing in 
motion for his departure. He had a number of 
fmall loaves. of wheat made, with a fupply of rye 
buifcuit. A portion of eatables, referved for his own 
ufe, was put up with the baggage, and feveral prefents, 
offered with a politenefs and warmth that made it im- 
pofible for M. de Leffeps to refufe them. 

It was not till towards night, on the sth, th:t the 
perfons, who had agreed to conduc M. de Leffeps, 
made their appearance ; and the next day, being Sun- 
day, nothing could prevail on them to fet out, till M. 
Gaguen got the better of their fuperftitious fears by 
the help of brandy. Two of the foldiers, who had 
come with M, de Leffeps from Kaminoi, remained at 

l | Ingiga, 


Yngi 

thet 
and 2 
cliof 
as O 


for h 
Evia 
falle 
T 
be we 
to fa 
long, 
which 
of a 
is no! 
two | 
width 
{mall 
the fr 
laths, 
fubft: 
tremi 
and a 
part « 
point 
back 
chaif 
ina 


carri 


KAMTSCHATKA. 79 


Ingiga, which was their ordinary refidence. The two 
others, Golikoff and Nédaréroff, went on with him 3 
and a young Ruffian merchant, of the name of Kifs- 
clioff, who had afked permiffion to accompany him as far 
as Okotfk, and who proved an agreeable companion. 

When the fledges were ready, M. de Leffeps found 
for his immediate conductor a Koriac Prince, named 
Eviava, who expreffed great joy at the honour that had 
fallen upon him, and hafted to join the line. 

The following defcription of a Koriac fledge may 
be worth reading. Upon two parallel fkates, that is 
to fay, on two branches of a tree fix feet and a half 
long, three inches wide, and very ill finifhed, of 
which the ends in front bend upwards, in the fhape 
of a half crefcent, refts the body of the fledge, which 
is nothing more than a frame of open work, raifed 
two feet and fome inches from the ground. The. 
width eighteen inches, and five feet in length. Two 
{mall poles, about five inches in circumference, form 
the frame of the open work, which is made of large 
laths, let in one upon another. A crofs bar, more 
fubftantial than thefe poles, unites their forward ex 
tremities, which join the arched ends of the fkates, 
and are fallened to them with thongs. The lower 
part of the open work refts upon curved fticks, the 
points of which are regularly fixed in the fkates. The 
back of the upper part is fomething like a fmall open 
chaife, fixteen inches high, and two feet deep, made 
in a circular form, with fhort fticks, in the manner of 
a garden chair. In this narrow enclofure the provi-. 
. fions are commonly put, or whatever may be wanted 
for daily ufe. M. de Leffeps fat here on the box that 
contained his difpatches. ‘The driver fits «ftride to- 
wards the middle of the carriage, with his feet on the 
fates. 

Thefe fledges are drawn by two rein-deer abreaft. 
The harnefs is a leathern co!lar, from which a trace is. 
carried acrofs the breaft, and between the two fore- 

legs 


80 TRAVELS FROM 


legs of the animal, and palling along his fide, to which 
it 18 kept by a leather {trap, is faftened to the crofs 
iece of the fledge. This is for the deer on the right. 
d fide. The trace of that on the left is made faft 
to the bottom of one of the crooked fupporters ; the 
reins are two thongs faftened round the root of the 
horns of each deer, The driver carries alfo a ftick, 
armed. at one end with a fort of hammer; which is a 
ftone fixed horizontally, very rough at one end, pre- 
fenting a point nearly two inches in length. This is 
principally ufed to difengage the traces without ftop- 
ping, in cafe they fhould become entangled in the 
legs or feet of the deer; and in doing which eonfifts 
the chief fkill of the driver. The other end of the 
bone is round, and is ufed inftead of a whip, but with 
more pain to the poor animals, who are fométimes 
covered. with ftreams of blood. Thele fticks are very 
apt to break, fo that they carry a fupply with them, 
which are faftened to the fledge. 

At feven o'clock they ftopped half way up a moun- 
tain, known to the Koriacs, and marked out as the 
place for their firft halt, which does not depend on 
the convenience or wifhes of the traveller, but on the 
finding a fpot that may afford mofs for the deer, who, 
as foon as they were urharnefled, began to fcrape 
away the fhow, under which they well knew they 
fhould find their food. After a frugal fupper, M. de 
Lefleps laid down on the fnow, where having been al- 
Towed to fleep a few hours, he was peremptorily calied 
upon: to continue his la à | 

It may be neceflary to obferve, that the Koriacs will 
travel four, five, or fix days, with very little reft, The 
rein deer are trained to run night and day, three 
hours at a time ; they are then unharnefled\to feed 
one hour, after which they go on with undiminifhed 
ardour ; and this treatment is continued to the end of 
their journey. 

Betore remounting, Eviava mentioned to M. de 

Leffeps 


KAMTSCHATKA. 81 

Leffeps the neceffity of lightening his fledge ; and pro- 
poled, if he would try to drive himfelf, to take one of 
the empty fledges, which they had with them in cafe 
of accident. To this M. de Lefleps willingly agreed, 
but ic nearly coft him his life Unaccuftomed to the 
kind of harnefs, his leg caught in the left trace, and 
he was thrown out of the fledge. In his fall he let 
o the reins, and the deer no longer feeling reltraint, 
increafed their fpecd, and dragged him fome diftance, 
with his head knocking againit the fkate. He had loft 
his fenfes, but by an involuntary motion of his hand 
he caught hold of the reins, and with a fudden check 
{topped the deer. In a few minutes his fenfes return- 
ed, and he purfued his pro with no other injury 
than a contufion on the leg, and a violent head-ache. 


He however redoubled his care, efpecially when he 
was told by the Koriacs how fortunate he was that 
the deer had not betaken themfelves to the moun- 
tains, where it might have been three or four days be- 
fore they were recovered, if at all. 

Qn the left sey faw the village of Kafbanda, fituat. 


ed on the fea coaft, ninety werlts from Ingiga. It ap- 
peared very inconfiderable at the diftance of one werlt. 
Three werlts farther on were two yourtes, and fix ba- 
lagans. 

They had fill feven werfts to the place deftined for 
their halt, which was a wretched hamlet, in the mid. 
die of a little wood, watered by the river Noyakhona. 
A fingle yourte and three or four balagans compofed 
the whole. ‘Thefe were inhabited winter and fum- 
mer by ten or twelve Koriacs, who received him kind- 
ly ; at leaft they put him under cover, which was a 
great thing for a man often reduced to the neceffity of 
fleeping under the canopy of heaven on a bed of 
fnow. 

Qn the evening of the 8th, Eviava, ignorant of the 
immediate fituation of the yourte of Oumiavin’s 
brother, propofed afcending a mountain on the left, 

Vou. II. (F) at 


82 TRAVELS FROM 


at the top of which he hoped to meet with one of his 
countrymen, who would be able to give him inftrut- 
tions. In an hour and a halt they reached the fum- 
mit, where nota veftige of any habitation was to be 
feen. M. de Lefleps, greatly fatigued, defired Evia- 
va to go in fearch of his friend, while he repofed 
-himfelf. In three hours he returned full of joy, hav- 
ing found Prince Amoulamoula and all his horde. 
They had inftantly prayed that M. de-Lefleps would 
ftay where he was till the next mornfng, as they were 
all defirous of coming to meet him. This circum- 
{tance was not unpleafant, as it gave him almoft a 
‘whole night's reft. 

At day-break the vifitors appeared. The Chief 

firft approached to pay his compliments in the Koriac 
manner, accompanying them with a fine red and 
black fox fkin, or févadoufchker, which he took from 
-under his parque, and begged M. de Lefleps to ac- 
cept.. In return for his civility, he treated them all 
with brandy and tobacco ; and making them under- 
ftand how fenfible he was of their kindnefs, took his 
Jeave with every information neceffary to direét his 
courfe. : 
.. Though the fnow was deep and not very firm, the 
deer went on with aftonifhing eafe and lightnefs. They 
have the advantage of dogs, as their feet are broader, 
ed do not fink fo much. On the other hand, dogs 
wo not tite fo foon, and are therefore not obliged to 
ftop fo often. 

On the way M. de Leffeps killed feveral white par- 
tridges, of which there were great numbers. Some 
wild rein-deer allo fled fwiftly at his approach. For- 
tunately the abundance of his provitions left him 
without.any. with of. killing them.. 

By noon they could diitinguifh the Stoudenaia-re- 
ka, and in an hour they had c'offed it, and were ar- 
rived at the habitation of this brother of Oumiavin's, 
in whofe hands Eviava had undertaken to place them. 
* 7 M. de 


KAMTSCHATKA. 83 


M. de Leffeps’ new hoft met hinr at the head of his 
family, who expreffed their fatisfaétion at his arrival. 
The addrefs of the old Prince was fhort, .but affec- 
tionate, and full of his ufual cordiality. Every thing 
belonging to him, he affured M. de Leffeps, was at 
his dilpofal ; and all his people were immediately bu- 
fied in placing the fledges and effects under cover. 
M. de Leffeps thought only of his difpatches, which, 
jt was n:ceflary to inform them, he never fuffered any 
one to carry but himfelf. ARE aa à 

His firit care, after entering the yourte, was to pay 
Prince Eviava his poft charg:s. He had twelve fledges, 
each drawn by two deer ; the diftance was one hundred 
and eighty-five werfts ; the money was therefore feven 
roubles and forty kopecks. On receiving this fum 
the god conduétor admired his generofity. M. de 
Lefleps obferved that it was no more than his due: 
the paying it however appeared to him an aét of vir- 
tue. Such encomiums led M. de Leffeps to fufpeét 
that the Ruffians are fom:thing mére than cconomi- 
cal. They affert indeed that their travelling in this 
country is not expenfive. 2 

The name of the brave Koriac, with whom M. de 
Lefleps was now lodged, was Oumiavin, baptized in 
his infancy by that of Simeon, which diflinguifhed 
him from his brother... He frankly confefl:d that he 
had no notion of the Chriftian religion. He was ig- 
norant of its duties, and even of its firft principles. 
Left to the fenfelefs errors of his own country, and a 
few Chriftian ceremonies, which cuftom had taught 
him; fuch as making the fign of the crofs, in the 
company of Riffians, on en‘ering the yourtes, and 
before and after meals; he had happily found in his 
heart the rudiments of a natural morality, by which 
alone his actions were directed. | 
_ Like all the Koriacs, he was of fmal ftature and 
fwarthy. His countenance was charatteriftic of his 
mind, An expreflion of candour ana goodnefs pre. 
ou (F 2) 7 judiced 


We 


84 TRAVELS FROM 
judiced ‘every body in his favour. Added to’this, his 
white locks, with the regularity of his features, gave 
him truly a diftinguifhed air. He was lame in the 
right arm, in confequence of à perilous combat fuf- 
‘tained with a bear. Fear had difperfed his compa- 
ions, when ‘he alone oppofed the animal, and with 
no weapon but his knife, he at length threw him 
down atid killed him. Hunting was his great amufe- 
ment, in which his {kill and intrepidity rendered him 
vey fuccefsful. : 
ut the energy of ‘his mind made him particularly 
eftimable and itterefting. He had been the firft, 
whom the tyranmies practifed ‘by fome of the Ruffian 
fubaltern officers over ‘their new fubjeéts, had roufed 
to vengeance; atid allembling fome of thofe who, 
with himfe'f, had been the greateft fufferers, in an ap- 
‘ptopriate fpeech he ‘itnparted to them his defign of 
pag Ab complaints to Peterfburgh. The contelt 
‘of who thould go was zealous and general. The molt 
“wealthy and the ‘boldeft were chofen; at the head of 
“who was Oumidvin, on ‘account of his fpeaking the 
Ruffian language, which he did with tolerable facility. 
‘Artived at Okotfk, where their project had got wind, 
‘they -wete totally defeated ‘by court fubtlety; and 
obliged to return with the facnfice of the greater part 
‘of their wealth, and their déer. 

Not difcouraged by this difappointment, Oumiavin 
ftill had hopes of ‘accomplifhing his defign; and 
thought the expediency of it fully proved by the mea. 
fures that had been exerted apaintt It. | 

As a farther proof of his generofity, M. de Lefleps 
‘gives the following anecdote: The confiderable ex- 
pence incurred in the ‘undettaking jult mentioned, 
‘had nearly ruined him. Much time was neceflary for 
the recruit of his flocks, ‘which, during his abfence, 
‘had fallen into decay, from the ‘negligence of their 
attendants. Many s:onths ‘before, one of his rela- 
tions had loft all his deer, and faw himfelf reduced 

: ; # 


KAMTSCHATKA, 85 
to a flate of lervitude. Simeon, willing to affift him, 
had made up a fmall herd, which he lent him with- 
out intereft. At his return from his fatal expedition, 
notwithftanding his extreme diftrefs, he refufed to 
take the deer back, not finding them fufficiently in- 
creafed to enable his debtor to return them with cone 
venience. | 

The greateft riches of this wande:ing tribe is their 
deer. The Chief of a horde feldom has fewer than 
from two to three hundred; many have three or four 
thoufand. Simeon’s flack at this time was between 
eight and nine hundred, which made a very pleafing 
appearance. ‘They feed on the top of a mountain, in 
the neighbourhood of the Stoudenaia-reka, whence 
they feldom ftray, and when wanted are caught with- 
out difficulty. A particular cry of the keepers draws 
them together, when a halter with a running noofe 
is thrown over the necks of fuch as they wifh to de- 
tain, which is done with great dexterity. The .fe- 
male deer are feldom put into harnefs ; and the young 
males, deftined to work, are prepared as horfes in ge- 
neral are in England. 

In a herd there are almoft always three or four deer 
that are trained for hunting. The inftiné of this ani- 
mal is inconceivable. He carries on the {port as he 
feeds. At the fight of a wild deer, without any fign 
of joy or furprife, he begins immediately to imitate 
him, till he gets near without giving any caufe of fuf- 
picion. Prefently they are feen playing together, run- 
ning, chafing, and purfuing, till the wild deer is drawn 
by degrees within fhot of the fportfman. With a 
well taught deer the wild ones are fometimes taken 
alive, by means of a fpringe or noofe fufpended to 
the horns of the tame deer, who contrives in play to 
throw it over the horns of his adverfary, and detains 
him in this manner till his mafter comes up. 

The habitatiors of thefe wandering Koriacs are very 
different from thofe of the fixed tribes, though they 
(F 3) have 


86  . _ ‘TRAVELS FROM " 

have all the common name of yourte. Thofe in’ 
queftion are, properly fpeaking, tents above ground, 

in the form of huts, and are nothing more than a 
great number of poles fixed at equal diftances, meet- 
ing at the top, and covered round with tanned deer- 
fkin till within a few feet of the fummit, where an 
aperture is left for the fmoke to efvape, and for the 
admiffion of air. The fize of Oumiavin’s was eight 
yards in diameter, and nearly as much in height. ‘The 
circumference at the bottom was twenty-four yards, 
the top terminating like a cone. The family andthe 
deer keepers lie under pologs or tents of a fmaller 
kind, whi.h are ranged in different apartments round 
the wall of the you:te, and refembie the fquare tents 
of the Tchoutkis. 

This kind of habitation, which is eafily moved, is 
perfeatly adapted to the unfettled ftate of thefe people, 
who fhift their quarters as convenience or neceflity 
dictates ; always choofing the neighbourhood of 
rivers, and particularly fuch {pots as abound with 
mofs, 

Twelve fledges having been prepared at eight 
o’clock on the mo ning of the 1oth, M. de Lefeps 
continued his journey, accompanied by M. Kiflelioff 
and Simeon Cumiavin, who infifted upon being his 
guide as far as Yamtk. By noon they croffed the Ta- 
vatoma, having travelled twenty-five werfts. Near 
this river M. de Leffeps and M. Kiflelioff went a little 
diftance out of the way, for the purpole of feeing a 
hot fpring, to which Oumiavin directed them, and 
which appeared to contain fulphureous and faline par- 
ticles ; but the moft fingular circumftance was the 
eff. & the water produced upon them. M. Kiffelioff 
having wafhed his face with it, had the whole fkin 
taken off ; and M. de Lefleps, from flightly rinfing his 
mouth, was unable to eat or drink any thing hot for 
a long time. Hemte they went on nearly four days 
without any remarkable occurrence, and on the 14th, 

at 


KAMTSCHATKA: 87 


at four o’clock’in the afternoon, enteréd the village of 
Toumané. It is fituated fouth-weft of Ingiga, at the 
diftance of four hundred and forty werlts, in a little 
wood, through which a river runs of the fame name. 
Vhree yourtes, as many magazines for wood, and 
twelve balagans, compoled this oftrog, the population 
of which amounted to twenty families. Although 
the river abounded with fifh, and with excellent trout 
in particular, the inhabitants, from idlenefs or want 
of tafle, contented themlelves witi the back of the 
birch-tree {teeed in whale oil. 

The 15th and 16th they had bad weather ; but had 
not this been the cafe, the deer were unable to pro- 
ceed further, which Oiniavin difclofed, not without 
great tribulation; and by his advice M. de Leffeps 
prefled the inhabitants to give him all the dogs they 
could find, which was but a {mall number, and among 
thefe, from neceflity, were young dogs, and females 
on the point of bringing forth. ‘The generofity of 
thefe people went fo far as to give up a part of their 
provilions of dried fruit, of which they had no great 
quantity. 

On the 17th the wind abated, though the fky re- 
mained charged with bla k threatening clouds, Mean. 
time M. de Lefleps having taken leave of the faithful 
Simeon, and his holls of ‘Toumané, departed at one 
o’clock with his efcort and all his baggage upon five 
open fledges, ‘each ‘having eight or ten dogs. 

They had fearcely advanced fifteen werfis, when 
the {now and the wind compelled them to feek fhel- 
ter; and the guides propofed going to a deferted 
yourte, which they knew to be at no great diftance. 
it was on the banks of a {mall river called Yovanna, 
twenty werfts from Vo imané. When they came to 
it they were covered with fñow, and nearly frozen. 
Every one was for defcending as faft as he could, but 
they had firit four feet of fnow to clear away from the 
entrance. This was effected by the help of their 
rackets in an hour’s time. Still they had no ladder, 

(F 4) ~ but 


a 


A nc rt gi sc à 


ES 


88 TRAVELS FROM 

but the boldéft leaping dows, thé reft followed, and 
fell ün the carcafes of fea:wolves entitely frozen, and 
fome of them partly devoured ; no doubt by wild 
beafts, who, in the depth of winter, had made a 
‘den of this yourte. A feine of leather, in one cot- 
ner, was the only indication of its having been vi- 
fited by human beings. Here however they paffed a 
tolerable night, and were detained by the weather, 
much againft their wifhes, till the 21ft, when the 
bare poflibility of proceeding hurried them on, though 
they had no hopes of any refuge between that and 
Yamfk. ‘They bent their courfe towards the fea, on 
which they conftantly travelled within two werfts of 
the fhore, approaching this at night for the purpofe 
of ‘halting. The 23d, at night, they ftopped in a 
fine wood of firs, near the river Iter. 

On the 23d they met a ferjeant with difpatches from 
Okotfk ; and foon after, atabout three werfts diftance, 
from iis mouth, the river of Yamfk prefented ‘itfelf. 
In following its courfe they difcovered on the right ‘a 
habitation of fifhers, ufed only in the fummer ; and 
going fix werfts farther, about noon they entered the 
village, which is more than one hundred and fifty 
werlts from Toumané. Their bifcuit being nearly 
confumed, they were not only conftrained to fleep 
there, but to remain a part of the next day to re- 
cruit their provifions. 

The ferjeant, who commanded the garrifon of 
twenty men, received M. de Leffeps with great civili- 
ty; and, upon the recommendation of the Governor 
of Ingiga, hafted to prepare whatever he wanted, 
and gave him every neceflary direétion. 

The oftrog or fort of Yamfk is on ‘the border ‘of 
the river bearing irs name, ten werfts from its mc th, 
where it forms a bay that promifes excellent anchor 
age; but feveral capes that project a great way, and.a 
number of rocks or fhoals, with which its entrance is 

‘almoft choked, makes the navigation'‘exceedingly dan- 
‘gerous, and hardly to be attempted but with a —_ 
; Wind. 


KAMTSCHATKA. 89 


wind. On which account, if the place were more 
confiderable or more frequented, fhipwrecks would 
probably be more common. 

There were twenty-five houfes at Yamfk, built of 
wood; and in a part of it, where the church ftands, 
was  fquare of palifades, like that of Tagiga, but nei- 
ther fo high nor fo thick. They reckoned twenty 
famiiies, who lived nearly in the manner of the Ruf- 
fians. 

They had a method of making falt, with which M. 
de Leffeps was unacquainted. All the wood thrown 
up by the fea is put together with the greateft care, 
As foon as it is dry they burn it. The afhes are then 
boiled, and the fediment it depofits is a fine white 
fait. 

A troop of wandering Tongoufes had left Yamk 
two days before M. de Leffeps’ arrival. As a confo- 
lation for not having feen them, they fhowed him 
the full drefs both of men and women. They wear 
no chemife, but a kind of ftomacher, which faftens 
behind, and defcends as low as the knees, like an 
apron. It is embordered with the hair of the rein- 
deer, and decorated with glafs beads of various co- 
lours. Att the bottom are plates of iron and copper, 
and a great number of fmall bells. Under this apron 
they have breeches, or pantaloons of fkin ; and in. 
ftead of ftockings, their legs are covered with long 
boots of rein deer-fkin, embroidered with the hair 
on the outfide. . A long waiftcoat covers the fhoul- 
ders, ‘and, at the end of the fleeves, gloves are faf- 
tened, which are open under the wrift, to admit of 
pulling on. This waiftcoat, clofe on the breaft and 
fitted to the fhape, reaches to the middle of the 
thighs, and is alfo ornamented with embroidery and 
glafs beads. From the fall of the back hangs a tail 
two feet long, ‘but not thick, made of the hair of the 
fea-wolf coloured. The head drefs:confifts of a little 
round bonnet, lengthened at the fides to cover the 
ears, 


90 TRAVELS FROM | 


ears. The'whole drefs is the fkin of young rein deer, 
trimmed with fable, otters, or furs of equal value. 

The drefs of the women is nearly the fame, only it 
has neither tail nor gloves,and their cap has an opening 
at the top of about two inches diameter, through which 
M. de Leffeps thought it probable they put their hair. 
In the winter they wear thick fur cloathing, but they 
are careful, for fear of injuring it, to change their drets 
the moment they enter the yourtes, and to put on their 
worit garments, and upon the moft trifling occafions, 
they ftrip themfelves quite naked. 

‘The heat of the fun on the 24th threatened an ap- 
proaching thaw; in confequence of which M. de Lef- 
feps furnifhed himfelf with plates of whalebone to 
put under the fkates of the fledges in cafe of necellity, 
and, by the advice of the people of the country, he 
determined to travel by night, and repofe himfelf in 
the day-time, whilft the fun was at the height of its 
power. He left Yamfk at eleven o’clock at night ; 
their caravan confilting of nine large fledges or nartas. 
The poft expences are the fame as at Kamtfchatka 
for the common fledges, though the teams of the nar- 
tas are double in number. 

By break of d:y they found themfelves at the bot- 
tom of one of the higheft mountains fifty werfts from 
Yamfk. The Koriacs had given it the name of Ba- 
boufchka or the grandmother ; and they fay that on 
the fummit is the tomb of an old forcerefs, as famous 
as fhe was formdable. Arrived at the top of the Ba. 
boufchka, the guides armed their feet with cramps in 
the form of {mall tripods, and placed larger ftit ks croff- 
ways at the bottom of the fledges to prevent their de- 
fcending too fwiftly. No other care was neceflary but 
to guide the dogs with the ofchtol or ftick with the 
jron end, and they got to the bottom without any ac- 
cident. This defcent is, however, thought dangerous 
by the inhabitants of.the country, particularly when 
the unequal {paces are filled up with fnow, and thus 

become 


OME 


KAMTSCHATKA. gl 


become unavoidable gulphs, fatal no doubt to many 
travellers. Misfortune or fafety on this occafion may 
perhaps be equally attributed to the old forcerefs at 
the top of the mountain ; and as fuch prejudices may 
excite fear, the Koriacs, as a means of enfuring fafety, 
are careful to leave behind them f me offering: Thofe 
who attend: d M. de Lefleps were eager to hang up 
theirs, which conffted of fmall pieces of tobacco, bits of 
fifh, iron, &c.and whichare left in the place where they 
fuppofe the forcerefs is at reft. Others before them 
had left old pieces of iron, of knives, the broken ends 
of arrows and other weapons. M. de Lefleps faw a 


- tchouktfchi javelin ornamented with ivory, which he 


wifhed to take with a view of keeping it. When one 
of the guides ftopped him and cried out, ‘ What are 
you going to do? Would you deitroy us? Such a fa- 
crilegewould bring on us the greateft misfortunes; 
and prevent you from finifhing your journey.” 

The firit village they came to ws Srednoi ; whence 
they proceeded in the evening with frefh dogs, and the 
26th, before nvon, reached Siglann, which itands on 
the fide of a river of the fame name, and is the laft 
village of the Koriac territories. It is neither larger 
nor more populous than Srednoi, from which itis fe: 
venty-feven werfts. That fame evening they went on 
again, and by three o’clock the next day arrived at 
Ola, a Tongoufe oftrog, one hundred and fourteen 
wer(ts from Siglann. It is fituated on a fandy fhore 
at the mouth of the river Ola, which, widening in this 
place, prefents a fmall harbour, to the end of which 
the Tongoufes retire in fevere weather. ‘This retreat 
they had quitted a few days to take poffeflion of ten 
yourt:s, which compole the village of Ola, where they 
xemain during the warm feafon. - 

Thefe yourtes are not under ground like thofe 
of the Kamtfchatdiles, or as the greater part of 
the fixed Koriacs; they are alfo longer and better 
conftruéted. The poles fupporting the walls are 

thicker, 


02 TRAVELS FROM 


thicker, and they have a ftrait opening at the top of 
the roof from one end to the other, ‘The fire place 
is in the fame manner extended the length of the houfe. 
Eight feet above the fire, which is never fuffered to go 
out the whole fummer, they hang their fith and fea- 
wolves to be dried and fmoked, which is the chief ad- 
vantage of thefe dwellings. ‘Two doors facing each 
other from the oppofite ends of the buildings, give 
them the power of bringing in trees and large: pieces 
of wood for the fupply of the fire. Each family have 
their beds in feparate huts at the fides of the yourte. 
That which M. de Leffeps entered was partitioned off 
with the fkins of fifh properly prepared, fewn together 
and painted of different colours, making an odd fort 
of tapeftry that was not difagreeable. 

The winter yourtes are round and raifed above 
ground like thofe of fummer. Large perpendicular 
pieces of wood form the walls; they have a floping 
roof with a hole at the top for the evaporation of the 
fmoke. There is a door at the bottom, and fome have 
a kind of gallery in them which breaks the column of 
air, fo that the fmoke iflues more freely. 

Soon after M. de Leffeps’ arrival at Ola, he was 
vifited by feveral women ; fome dreffed in the Ruffian 
manner, others like the Tongoufes. Surprifed to fee 
them fo fine, he was told it was the village feaft ; and 
that it was befides a piece of their coquetry, to appear 
dreffed before ftrangers. Among the moft efteemed 
ornaments, embroidery with glals beads feemed to 
have the preference, which they did with great tafte, 
M. de Lefleps obferved one on the boot of a young 
girl, the defign of which was admirably light and ele. 
gant. It concealed nothing of the beauty of the leg, 
which was covered with a pautaloon of fkin perfectly 
fitted ; and over it was a kind of fhort petticoat. 

There is a ftriking refemblance between the Ton- 
goufes and the Ruffians. They have the fame fea- 
tures and language. The men are ftrong and 

ma Ca 


KAMTSCHATKA. 03 


made. Among the women are fome Afiatic figures, 
but they have neither the flat nor broad countenance 
of the Kamtfchadales, or of the generality of the Ko: 
triacs. Kindnefs and hofpitality feem to be the cha- 
racteriftic qualities of the Tongoufe people. It was 
not from a want of zeal that M. de Lefleps was not 
furnifhed among them with every thing he wanted ; 
but their means are fo circumfcribed, that they could 
change a part only of his dogs. 

Upon leaving this village they went along the fea, 
where the cracking of the ice, now beginning to break 
up, gave them many dreadful alarms. At break of 
day they reached the main land, in order to go over a 
fteep promontory ; in the defcent of which, one of the 
guides who was accidently overturned, received fo fe- 
vere a wound by falling on his ftick which pierced his 
lide, that ihey were obliged to place him on one of 
the baggage fledges. 

At the foot of the mountain thcy were ftill more 

erplexed, by finding the fea already broken up. 
hey therefore proceeded along the fhore, till in about 
half an hour the man in front called out that he could 
not poffibly go any farther. ‘To find a way by land 
was out of the queftion, and the only method of croff- 
ing a bay now before'them, was, as the guides advifed, 
by leaping from one fheet of ice to another. But as 
the current had put the pieces of ice in motion, M. 
de Lefleps objected to that undertaking, and at length 
difcovering a narrow ridge ‘of ice that aühered to the 
rocks by which the fea was bounded, and exploring 
the way firft himfelf, in feven hours, with immenfe 
difficulty and hazard, he got his party over with the 
lofs only of one dog, which was indeed a ferious lofs 
to the conduétors, as the price of fome dogs was as 
high as fifty roubles a piece, and not one fold for lefs 
‘than five. 

They now proceeded to the village of Armani, at 
the foot of which runs a river of the fame name, eighty 

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TRAVELS FROM 


94 
one werfts from Ola, They pañled on about 309 
yards farther, and ftopped at the abode of a Ya. 
koute who had lived thirty years in the fame yourte, 
which was placed in the midft of an extenfive wood 
of firs, and where M. de Leff: ps was told he would 
find a beter lodging. In his abfence, his wife re- 
ceived them with great kindnefs ; offering them milk, 
and a four beverage made of mare’s milk, called kou- 
mouifs. Jt was not difagreealle, and the Ruffians, 
notwithftanding their fuperititious averfion to what. 
ever comes from a:horfe, drank it with, great pleafure. 
Meantime the hufband arrived. He was a gcod look. 
ing old man, fill full of vigour and health. As foon 
as he learned the object of M. de Leffeps’ journey from 
his wife, and from the foldier Golikoff, who, being a 
native of Yakoutfk, ferved as interpreter, he made 
hafte to. prepare for his repofe the beft apartment his 
houle afforded. M. de Lefleps was awakened by the | 
lowings of a herd that came into the yourte. Eight 
cows, a bull, and feveral calves, had a part of the ha- 
bitation ; which in {pite of fuch vifitors was neat, and 
the air fweet and wholefome. The lie of this Yakoute 
was not pañled like that of the Koriacs and Kamtfcha- 
dales, in catching and drying fifth, which was a food 
he did not efteem. The care of his cattle and hunt- 
ing, which were his only occupations, fupplied all his 
wants. He had. befides, ten horfes. ‘Vhefe he ufed 
for various purpofes, and kept them in an enclofure 
at a fmall diftance from the yourte, around which, 
every thing befpoke eafe and happinefs. It is not eafy 
to fay what charms the appearance of the herd, or 
the fight and good flavour of the milk diet gave to the 
repatt, but M. de Lefleps thought he had not for a 
Jong time feen fuch good cheer. The matter of the 
houfe had even the attention, before his departure, 
to put fome game on the fledge that carried the pro- 
4ifions. . 

They feparated the fame evening of the 29th, full 


fatil- 


KAMTSCHATKA. ‘95 


fatisfied with each other, and M. de Lefleps, travelling 
all night, got as far as the fort of Taoufk by the next 
morning, which was forty two werlts. This oftrog, 
‘where according to cuftom, they paffed the day, is 
‘upon the river Taou. It contains twenty ifbas, a 
fmall church ferved by the minifter of Oxotik, and a 
building in which they depofit the tributes, furround- 
ed by palifades in the form. of ba!lions. “Twenty Ya- 
koutes, two of their Princes, and fome Ko: iacs, whom 
the fituation has attracted, make up the inhabitants. 
The garrifon confifts of fifteen foldiers, under the 
command of a ferjeant named Okhotin, at whofe dwell. 
ing M. de Leffeps refted till the evening. 

In the night they paffed through the village of Gor. 
bé, which is peopled by Yakoutes, and a {mall num- 
ber of Koriacs. At day break they loft fight of the 
fea, and having for fome time coafted along the Taou 
without daring to rifk the ice, they infenfibly ad- 
-vanced farther into the country. The firft and fecond 
-of May, they travelled acrofs fields and upon the river 
‘Kava, without perceiving a fingle habitation. : 

The third of May, at the inftant that they were dif- 
pofed to make a halt in the middle of a wood of fir 
trees, they were overtaken by a ftorm of wind and 
{now. A tent fpread over the baggage fledges made 
them a fhelter, but it was neceflary to have a fire, and 
.the conductors, who undertook to get wood, were bu- 
ried up to their waifts in fnow. In the afternoon the 
wind fhifted, and the fky was cleared. ‘They there- 
fore remounted their fledges, but were obliged to get 
-out.in turns to make a patfage for the dogs. pin 

The morning of the 4th they pafl.d over the moun- 
tain of Iné, two hundred and feventy werfts from 
Taoufk, and which is as high as that of the Baboufch- 
ka. At the fummitthe coid was fo intenle as to com- 
pel them to light a fire. In about five hours they 
came again to the fea, whi.h they left fome diftance 

from 


06 TRAVELS FROM 


from 1ké, where they arrived in the dufk of the 
evening. 

This village is thirty werfts from the mountain 
which bears its name, and is peopled by Ruffians and 
Yakoutes, who live in ifbas and yourtes; and have the 
care of a ftud of more than two hundred horfes, which 
they had noticed ten werlts from the village. M. de 
Lefleps intended to have changed his teams and have 
gone on immediately, but he was unwillingly detained 
by the difficulty of procuring dogs. The chief of the 
village was dead drunk ; and it was not till after an 
hour’s importunity and fearch, that a fufficient number 
could be affembled. 

At twenty-five werfts from Thé, where, for the fake 
of fpeed, M. de Leffeps had left his equipages and 
attendants in the care of his faithful Golikoff, with 
orders to follow him as faft as poffible, he paffed two 
yourtes inhabited by Yakoutes and Tongoufes, in a 
hamlet callet Oulbé. Farther on he met feveral con- 
voys of flour, which was left at the neighbouring vil- 
lages to be made into bifcuit for the fupply of the thips 
belonging to M. Billings, of whom there will foon be 
occafion to fpeak. : 

The fea now made its appearance again, and they 
travelled forty-feven werfts without quitting the fhore, 
where they faw a whale aground, and feveral fea 
wolves. At the top of the mountain of Marikann, 
thatis to fay, at the diftance of twenty-five werfts, M. 
de Lefleps had the pleafure to difcaver the town of 
Okotfk. A guft of wind now threatened to retard 
him, but.overcome by impatience, he continued ‘his 
route, determined to brave all accidents. His cou- 
rage, however, was not put tothe proof. On the fea 
coaft he found the air calm, and was able to fatisfy 
the curiofty of examining a veflel lately wrecked. 
At laft, after erofling the river Okhota in great fear, 
while the ice bent under his fledge at every ep, at 

our 


KAMTSCHATKA. 07 
four o’clock the fifth of May, he entered Okotfk, ac- 
companied only by Nédarezoff, 

He alighted at the houfe of Major Koph, who was 
appointed to the command during the abfence of M. 


‘Kafloff, whom he had expected with M. de Lefleps. 


for fome time. The governor’s letter acquainted 
him with the caufe of the feparation, and he fhort- 
ly related to him the melancholy circumftances at- 
tending it. He then haftened to wait on Madame 
Kafloff with letters entrufted to him by her hufband, 
but fhe was in the country, four werfts from Okotfk. 
He was fo fatigued that Major Koph would not allow 
him to go that day, but fent the letters. and his apo- 
logies, by an exprefs, with a promife of his paying his 
relpeéts to her the day following. Prefuming that he 
wanted reft more than any thing, the Major obliging- 
ly conduéted him immediately to the apartment def- 
tined for him in the houfe of M. Kafloff. He there 
found comforts to which he had been a ftranger from 
the time of his leaving Ingiga, having flept in a bed 
but once at Yamfk in a journey of three hundred and 
fifty leagues. 

Among the perfons who waited on him the next 
morning, was M. Allegretti, an Italian, and furgeon 
of the expedition of M. Billings. From the atten- 
tion and {kill of this gentleman, M. de Leffeps receiv- 
ed great benefit for the complaint which had ftill con- 
tinued in his breaft fince his imprudence in fwallow- 
ing fome ice, as has been related 

Since his arrival at Okotfk it had not ceafed to rain, 
and the people fent to examine the roads, reported: 
that it was next to impoffible for him to proceed with 
dogs. No other hope was left for his departure, for 
which he was very impatient, than by taking deer : 
and to procure thefe, M. Koph difpatched a courier 
after fome wandering Tongoufes who had left the 
town but a few days. 

Having taken thefe meafures, M. de Leffeps and 

Vou. IT, (G) M. Koph 


08 TRAVELS FROM 


M. Koph went to Madame Kafloff’s at Boulguin. This 
lady was born at Okotfk, and had been well educat- 
ed. She fpoke French admirably; and, during the 
abfence of her hufband, lived in retirement, devoting | 
her time to the care of a little daughter, now three 
years old. 

The day following, which was the 8th, the courier 
returned without having been able to come up with 
the Tongoufes, who had difperfed through thecoun- 
tay. No hope therefore remained of deer. But as 
M. de Lefleps was fearful of not reaching the Crofs 
of Yudoma before the rivers were entirely broken 
up, in which cafe he might be {topped by the floods, 
he prevailed on M. Koph to give the neceffary orders 
for his going on the next day, in fpite of the difficul- 
ties that had been pointed out to him. 

The town of Okotfk is longer than it is wide, and 
extends from eaft to weft nearly in a line. On the 
fouth fide is the fea, at one hundred yards from the 
houfes, with a beech of flints between. The walls 
are wafhed on the north by the river Okhota, whofe 
mouth is to the eaftward, that is to fay, at the extre- 
mity of'a neck of land on which the town is built, 
and which widens towards the weft. The interior 
offers nothing remarkable. ‘The houfes vary little in 
their conftruétion, being merely ifbas, fome of which 
towards the eaft, larger and more convenient than the 
others, are occupied by the officers.’ M. Koph lived 
in the oppofite quarter. The door of his court-yard 
opened into the great ftreet, where was a fquare con- 
taing the houfe of the governor, and the chancellor’s 
office all in one, Oppofite was the guard-houfe, and 
on the left the parifh church. The feveral edifices 
made no great appearance: formerly they had been : 
fhut in by a palifade, a part of which remained. A 
gate to the caft of the government houfe fhewed that 
there had been a fortrefs, Behind is a ftreet clofe ne 

| the 


KAMTSCHATKA. 99 


the river, inhabited by merchants, whofe fhops are 
regularly difpofed on each fide. 

The port fcarcely deferves the name. M. de Lef- 
feps counted feven or eight fmall veffels or galiots, 
fome belonging to the crown, and others to mer- 
chants trading in furs to America. It is to the eaft- 
ward, near the extremity of the town, and a little dif- 
tance from the river whofe windings form it. Upon 
the invitation of Mr. Hall, a lieutenant in the navy, 
M. de Leffeps went to fee a kind of dock-yard, where 
were two {mall veffels building for the expedition of 
difcovery entrufted to M. Billings. ‘The failors, fol- 
diers, and carpenters had been fent hither at a vaft 
expence, and all employed the greateft ardour upon 
the armament, which it was prefumed would coft the 
Emprefs an immenfe fum. 

Faithful to his word, M. Koph had feen every thing 
prepared for M. de Leffeps’ departure, who, on the 
evening of the roth, quitted Okotfk. His fuite had 
been augmented by two men, who were to pilot him 
on.the river Yudoma. He went on all night, not- 
withftanding the badnefs of the roads, which too well 
anfwered the account he had received of them. They 
were full of water, and in fome places, particularly in 
the woods, the dogs were up to their bellies. ‘The 
wind was to the fouthward, the fky cloudy, and every 
thing foretold that the thaw would continue. 

Meantime, having croffed the river Okhota, he 
gained without any accident the village of Medvéjé- 
golova, or the Bear’s Head, forty-five werfts from 
Okotfk, and inhabited by Ruffians and Yakouts. He 
got there early in the morning, but the dogs were fo 
tired, that he decided upon ftopping that day and all 
night; not having it his power to get a frefh fupply. 

The following day he hoped would take him to 
Moundoukan, twenty werfts from the laft village. 
Half way a part of the dogs refufed to draw; and 
they very reluctantly went down on a river which 

| (c 2) feemeg 


100 TRAVELS FROM 


feemed to offer a more convenient way. They had 
not gone many yards before a fudden crack was heard 
under the fledges, and in'a minute that of M. de Lef- 
feps funk confiderably. A piece of ice ftill kept it 
up, but a fecond break put the fkates three parts 
under water. It was in vain to attempt getting out, 
as the leaft motion would have overturned it. Fortu- 
nately the water was only four feet deep; and by the 
help of his people, who were obliged to hold each 
other by the hand, they all recovered the bank in 
fafety ; for deaf to the remonftrances of his conduc- 
tors, M. de Lefleps was determined to purfue his 
route. The fnow in the meantime melted fo rapidly, 
that the dogs paddled in the water without advancing, 
till they fell down one on another, worn out with fa- 
tigue. 

at length, by the ferious though refolute arguments 
of one of the guides, who was a ferjeant, fent parti- 
cularly by M. Koph as a man of great intrepidity and 
experience, and who pointed out the almoft innume- 
rable and infurmountable difficulties before them, 
himfelf determining to go no farther, M. de Leffeps 
was prevailed upon to return immediately to Okotik, 
whence he was no more than fifty-five werfts. 

They reached Medvéjé-golova that fame evening, 
and ftaid there till four o’clock at noon the next day. 
They then travelled flowly to the river Okhota, which 
they croffed with great danger, and arrived at Okotfk 
the 1 4th-at noon. 

This unavcidable misfortune, and the profpeét of 
being detained here fome weeks, were fources of great 
tribulation to M. de Leffeps. But he had the com- 
fort of knowing he had done his beft; and the kind- 
neffes he received from every body diverted his cha- 
grin, till refignation was no longer a merit. us 

An ong the officers of the garrifon he was under 
particular obligations to M. Loftfoff, infpector-gene- 
ral, who fent an order to all the environs’ for all a 

| be 


il 
t 
t 
a 
i 


LL ed MM AH HH KH 


KAMTSCHATKA. 101 


beft horfes to be ready at the fhorteft notice. This 
was no fmall exaétion, if the extreme weaknefs of 
thefe poor animals were confidered, who live all the 
winter upon the branches of fallows or birch trees, 
and are turned out in the fpring to recruit themfelves 
before they are ufed. 

- Ina few days an exprefs from Ingiga gave them 
the fatisfaétion of hearing that M. Kafloff had arrived 
in that town; but their joy was rather damped by 
not receiving any letter from him. M. de Leffeps 
pleafed himfelf however with the hopes of feeing the 
Governor General before his departure from Okotfk. 

Okotfk being the feat of government, and the prin- 
cipal mart for Ruffian commerce, M. de Lefleps was 
here at the fource of knowledge, and the fociety in 
which he lived gave him the opportunity of inftruct- 
ing himfelf in thefe particulars. He endeavoured, 
therefore, to trace the caufes which firft gave rife to 
the enterprifes of the Ruffian colonies in that country, 
and which were afterwards the means of fixing and 
increafing them. In this purfuit he had the affiftance 
of the moft enlightened perfons, and the moft fkilful 
merchants : ‘and in order to affure himfelf of the truth 
of their information, he frequently compared their ac- 
counts one with another, as well as with the affertions 
of Mr. Coxe. ‘The following is the fubjeét of the 
notes which he made on this occafion. 

By the conqueft of the eatern part of Siberia, the 
Roflians got poffeflion of the ich mines with which 
they enriched themfelves, and which the inhabitants 
feemed to hold in but little eftimation. To-the ex- 
traction of iroa, the conquerors added that of filver, 
of gold, and of other precious metals, the external 
objects of man’s avarice. The difcovery of thefe new 
fources ‘of riches, enflamed the courage of the adven- 
turers, till. the defire of extending their dominion car- 
ried them to Irkoutfk, which, on this fide, ought to 
have been confidered as the boundary of the empire. 


(c 3) At 


102 TRAVELS FROM 


At their frft incurfions into the neighbouring 
countries, they perceived with regret that the fame 
advantages were not to be expected. Nature every 
where fhewed herfelf a ftep mother. The fterility of 
the foil, equalled by the rigour of the climate, the ftu- 
pid flothfuinef of the favage inhabitants, who for the 
moft part were hunters, herdfmen, or perfons fubfift- 
ing on fifh, promifed no great refources to induftry, 
and reprefled the powers of fpeculation. But the in. 
genuity of avarice found here even treafures that 
might be appropriated. At the fight of the cloathing 
of thefe people, it was immediately determined to rob 
them of it ; calculating upon the poflibility of fucceed- 
ing by the allurement of change, and upon the im- 
menfe profit that would arife from fuch a branch of 


commerce, if they could once get it into their own 
hands. | 

In advancing farther to the eaft of Afia, it was re- 
marked that the furs became more beautiful. This 
was fufficient to perfuade the Ruffians how much it 


was their intereft and glory to fubjec&t every part of 
this vait territory to their laws. Hitherto it had been 
the theatre of piracies by a herd of Coffacs and Tar- 
tars, with whom fome Ruffians, animated by the fame 
fpirit of plunder, had united. The fuccefs of their 
attempts gaining ground, a defire of gain increafed 
the number of emigrants, whofe boldnefs grew in 
proportion to the refiftance with which they were op- 
pofed by the natives. In vain had nature placed thefe 
in fandy defarts, in the mid{ft of forefts, where their 
independence feemed out of all reach; in vain had 
the rigour of their winters, their mountains, and their 
frozen rivers been given them for ramparts; nothing 
is infurmountable to ambition, to the rage of con- 
queft, or to a thirft of riches.. The courage of the 
natives occafioned the renewal of combats, but they 
could not fave themfelves from oppreflion. ‘The vic- 
tors, avowedly recruited by government, fprung up 

4 ike 


KAMTSCHATKA. 103 


like hydras, till they had made themfelves mafters of 
all the country as far as Okotfk, and pufhed their 
conquetts in the north to the river Anadit. 

To fecure fuch advantages a fyftem of government 
and commerce became neceflary. Forts were con- 
ftructed, and towns built. Thefe eftablifhments, mi. 
ferable as they were, opened an afylum to Ruffian 
and other traders, who had found the way through 
thefe provinces. The injuftice and cruelties of ufur-. 
pation no doubt were feverely felt till a regular mode 
of government took place. The rights of the natives 
were then more attended to, taxes were lefs arbitrary, 
and the public duties were better fulfilled. The Ruf 
fian merchants fent their faétors to Okotik, which, 
from the advantages of its fituation, became the me-' 


tropolis. . The navigation was however little more 


than cruifing, and the veflels from Kamtfchatka were 
chiefly galiots. ‘The cargoes they brought back, that 
is, the precious fkins taken from the inhabitants either 
in barter or as impofts, were fent to the center of the 
empire, where they were fold under the direction of 
government, and chiefly on its account, the immenfe 
duties laid on every article confuming nearly the whole 
rofit. 

: Meantime Okotfk flourifhed, and the number of 
veffels that entered its port daily increafed, as frefh 
connections opened frefh objects of traffic. 

Ruffian caravans, leaving Siberia behind them, 
pafled on from defart to defart, till they reached the 
frontiers of China, where, after fome time, a treaty of 
trade was fettled between the two nations. This pri- 
vilege, which was not enjoyed by any people in the 
neighbourhood of China, gave to Ruflia an unbound. 
ed extent of commerce; and led befides to the difco- 
very of iflands which very foon arrelted the particular 
attention of the Court of Peterfburgh. 

In hopes of one day poffefling thefe iflands, the moft 
experienced marine officers were confulted and em- 


(a 4) 


104 TRAVELS FROM 


ployed, Behring, Tchirikoff, Levacheff, and others 
equally celebrated. Eager for difcovery, fome em- 
barked at Okotfk, others at Awatfcha, or Saint Peter 
and Saint Paul at the point of Kamtfchatka, and 
Behring ifland, Copper ifland, the Aleutienne and Fox 
tions bectinie tributary in their turns. The happy 
argonauts at length reached the coaft of America, and 
landed upon the peninfula of Alaxa, which they learn- 
ed was part of a vaft contirent; every thing fhewed 
that it muft be the new world, and, full of joy, they 
returned to their own country. 

Ruffian factories were quickly eftablifhed at Alaxa, 
which continue to be well fupported: The following 
is the mode of traffic adopted at Okotfk, whence fe- 
veral veflels fail every year for America. When a mer- 
chant wifhes:to make this voyage, either. himfelf, or 
by an agent, he obtains permiflion of the governor. 
The cargo is divided into fhares, which are bought by 
whoever choofes to become a purchafer. The price 
of the fhares defrays the expence of fitting, and of 
the different articles of merchandife, which confift of 
ftufls, iron utenfils, glafs trinket‘, handkerchiefs, 
brandy, tobacco, and other things efteemed by favages. 
The officers and failors have a part of the cargo call- 
ed pai afligned them inftead of wages. The voyage 
lafts three, four, or fix years, and is direéted to places 
little frequented, and fpent in fearch of new difcove- 
ties. Upon their return, the owners pay duties to 
the treafury according to the nature of the lading, 
which are levied upon the ‘effects. ‘The remainder is 
then valued, and equally divided among the owners. 
A part of the merchandife is then fent to Okotfk, and 
part to Yakoutfk, thence to Irkoutfk, and Jaft of all to 
Kiakhta, where the Chinefe becoine the purchafers.: 

All the tribunals of the peninfula, as has been ob- 
ferved, are fubjeét to that at Okotfk, where the gar- 
tifon, which was for a long time very diforderly, was 
now, by the abilities and attention of the late gover- 
| nors, 


KAMTSCHATKA, 105 


nors, brought under a ftriét difcipline, that has made 
inftances of difobedience very rare. The police, by 
the admirable management of M. Koph, was equally 
well ordered: and by the activity and prudence of 
M. Loftfoff, Infpeétor-general, the trouble that ufed 
to attend the collection of the revenue was entirely 
removed, and the decrees of the Emprefs were exe- 
cuted without violence. 

Having mentioned M. Billings, it may be neceflary 
to obferve, that this gentleman, from the reputation 
he had acquired in one of the voyages of Captain 
Cook, who was his countryman, was invited to Ruffia, 
and received the rank of Captain, for the purp»fe of 
commanding a fecret expedition, as it is fuppofed, of 
difcovery. The moft extenfive powers are given him, 
and materials, workmen, failors, every thing in fhort 
that can be neceffary, has been furnifhed by the court. 
For the fake of difpatch he has divided his people. 
One part was at Okotfk under the command of M. 
Hall his lieutenant, attending to the two veflels build- 
ing there; whilft he had gone with the remainder to 
the Frozen Ocean, in floops and other fhips haftily 
built in the river Kolumé. No one cou!d guefs the 
object of this firit voyage, but it was imagined that 
M. Billings was to make the circuit of this part of 
Afia, to double Cape Suctoi, and to fearch for a paf- 
fage to Okotfk by the fea of Kamtfchatka. If fo, he 
had probably met with infurmountable obftacles, fince . 
after being-at fea fome months, he had re-entered the 
Kolumé, and had jult failed for Yakoutfk. The ar- 
mament under the care of M. Hall had been fufpend- 
ed during the winter, but was now getting on faft. 
But M. de Lefleps did not think, that with the greateit 
diligence, thofe fhips could be ready in lefs than two 

ears. 3 
: The river Okhota, which had always been difen- 
cumbered of its ice by the 2cth of May, did not 
break up this year till the 26th. ‘he floating of the 
ice 


106 TRAVELS FROM 


ice was a grand fpeétacle ; attended with the unfor- 
tunate lofs of thirteen dogs, which no poffibility could 
fave, and which were carried away in a few minutes 
to the fea, where they would foon inevitably perifh. 
Thefe were now the only victims, but the effects were 
fometimes fo terrible, as to occafion the removal of all 
the houfes near the river: and M. de Leffeps was af. 
fured that a fourth part of the town had frequently 
been deftroyed. . 

At the completion of the thaw, the fifhing feafon 
commences, which relieves the inhabitants from the 
greateft diftrefs. On M. Koph’s ordering the feine 
to be ufed, a great part of the town attended. The 
cries of joy at fight of the fifh were extraordinary, 
and it was not without tears that M. de Lefleps be- 
held whole families difputing for it, and fome of them 
devouring it raw upon the fpot. 

At the earneft entreaty of M. de Leffeps, the horfes 
that had been appointed for him, were ordered to be 
ready by the 6th of June; and on that day he left 
Okotfk accompanied by M. Loftfoff,.M. Hall, and M. 
Allegretti Of his two foldiers, Golikoff only went 
with him, and the father of Nédarezoff, who was to 
pilot him on the river Yudoma. Some workmen 
were allo to follow, by the permiflion of M. Koph, to 
repair what boats might be damaged, that M. de Lef- 
feps might not be delayed. 

At fight of his horfe, which was a mere fkeleton, 
he drew back with horror and compaffion, though he 
paffed for one of the beft. The faddles were like 
thole of France; except thofe that carried the bag- 
gage, which were of wood, with two crofs fticks at 
the end to which the portmanteaus were faftened. 
For fome time they travelled by the fide of the Okho. 
ta, which, at the breaking up of the ice, overflows its 
bank to an amazing extent, and has been known to 
rife two feet above the tops of the higheft trees, Near 
Medvéjé-golova M. de Leffeps’ horle fell under him, 

4 | and 


de 
PE ul = 


OR CT 


KAMTSCHATKA. 107 


and finding it impoffible to make him get up, he was 
left behind, and it was imagined would foon expire. 


M. de Leffeps mounted another, and gained the vil- 


lage without any other accident. 

The next morning at nine o’clock they forded the 
river Okhota, the courfe of which they were no lon- 
ger to purfue. Some Yakoufe yourtes were obferved 
here and there at a great diftance from each other, on 
account of the number of horfes kept by the inhabi- 
tants; fome of them poffefling more than a thoufand, 
who could not poflibly find fufficient food if the ftuds 
were nearer. 

At Moundoukann the fatigue of the horfes obliged 
them to ftop that night and all the next day. Early 
the 8th M. de Lefleps here feparated from Meffrs. 
Hall and Loftfoff, and afcended a high mountain 
named Ourak, at whofe fummit the horfes were al- 
moft buried in fnow. At the foot ran a wide and 
rapid river of the fame name.’ The watermen who 
dwelt on the bank happened to be abfent, and M. de 

Leffeps tired of waiting for them, ordered his people 
to launch the beft boat they could find; in this the 
baggage was put, and they were conduéted in turn to 
the oppofite fide. The horfes were taftened by their 
tails, three together, and guided by a perfon in the 
boat, fwam acrofs, and they purfued their journey. 
Twenty-five werfts from Moundoukann they were 
obliged to reft the horfes again, and paffed the night 
under a tent, keeping up fires: for fear of the bears. 
At break of day they proceeded, and M. de Leffeps 
furprifed at feeing tufts of horfe-hair tied to the 
branches of the trees, was informed that they were 
offerings made by the people of the country to the 
gods of the woods and highways. 

At five o’clock in the afternoon of the rith they 
came up again with the Ourak, feveral branches of 
which they had forded the preceding day. The width 
here was not coniiderable, but the rain made it ap- 

pear 


108 TRAVELS FROM 


pear dangerous, and experience proved it fo, They 
therefore pitched their camp in the neighbourhood, 
where the horfes fortunately found fomething to eat. 

M. de Leffeps reftriéted himfelf to one meal in the 
evening, though he was very fuccefsful in killing 
game, among which he met with the heath-cock and 
white-partridge. The food of the Yakouts was a kind 
of thick frumenty made of rye and water, with an 
addition of fifh:oil. They were faid to be not great 
eaters, though a few of them had been known to 
roaft a horfe at a treat, and demolifh him ina few 
hours. The inteftines were thought a delicate morfel. 

On the 12th M. de Leffeps was awakened early by 
the guides. who informed him the water had greatly 
funk during the night: and whilft they were puting 
on the baggage, feveral horfemen arrived in fafety 
from the oppofite fhore. They were ruined mer- 
chants going to try their fortune as factors of a man 
of property, whofe fpeculation had obtained the con- 
fent of the court, and all fuccours thit were neceflary. 
The object was the fur trade, principa'ly of the fable 
caught by the Koriacs and the Tchouktchis. The 
factors were to feparate at the m»uth of the river 
Pengina, and to advance into the country. The term 
fixed for their journey was from four to five years ; 
and they were not only to purchafe fkins wherever 
they could, but were alfo themfelves to hunt the ani- 
mals: having nothing to fear but from the natives, 
againft whom they were provided with arms and am- 
munition. 

After croffing feveral rivers with great difficulty, 
and even with a very narrow efcape of his life, M. de 
Leffeps got in good time the fame day, the 12th, to 
Ouratfkoi-plodbif. hé, a village on the border of ‘the 
Ourak. The inhabitants were four foldiers, each of 
whom occupied an ifba. They had the guard of a 
magazine, in which were depofited the effects belong- 
ing to the crown, and that were brought from Okotfk 
. or 


KAMTSCHATKA. 109 


or Yakoutfk. Sometimes they convey the merchan- 
dize as far asthe mouth of the Ourak; but this river | 
is fo obftruéted by flats and cataracts, that the navi- 
gation is very troublefome and dangerous. 

The next morning M. de Leffeps croffed the river 
in a boat, and halted at night near an immenfe lake 
at no great diftance, which was the fource of it. The 
lake was faid to be about feven werft: in circumfe- 
rence, and to contain a great quantity of fifh. 

The Yakoutes, who are accountable for the horfes, 
have a cuftom of cutting off the ears and tail of fuch 
as die or that are left on the road; which they are 
obliged to give to the proprietor, or pay the price of 
the animal : and a long difpute on this fubj-& would 
have detained M. de Leffeps, if he had not p'omifed 
to give them a certificate, or take the blame on him- 
felf. | 

The 16th the horfes were fo tired that they were 
obliged to walk and lead them, while the Yakout fol- 
lowed and whipped them along. In this manner they 
proceeded the whole day, ftopping in places where 
the young grafs began to fhow itfelf, in order to re- 
frefh the poor beatts. 

At three o’clock in the afternoon they arrived at 
Yudomfkoi-kreit, cr the Crofs of Yudoma, fo called 
from a large crofs that is erected on the bank of the 
river. Onan eminence, beyond the reach of its over- 
flowings, are feveral magazines guarded by four fol- 
diers, which ferve as a refuge where their houfes are 
flooded. Thefe foldiers are allo watermen, and are at 
the fervice of travellers. 

At the fight of M. de Lefleps’ paffports they were 
immediately at his difpofal. Unfortunately their boats 
were in as bad a ftate as poffible, nor were there either 
workmen or materials to repair them. Thofe that 
were to have been fent from Okotfk could not be near 
joining them; and M. de Leffeps was impatient of 
getting down the Yudoma, Maya, and Aldaun, for 

sr fear 


}10 TRAVELS FROM 


fear of being expofed to the danger of the fhoals and 
cataraéts, as the waters decreafed apace. Among the 
- foldiers here, one only had made this voyage eight 
years before, and had totally forgot the courfe. M. 
de Lefleps was therefore advifed not to have recourfe 
to him, but on the refufal of all the others. His 
only refource then was in old Nédarezoff, who had 
been fent with him as a pilot; but who had only been 
once on this river twelve years ago, and the only thing 
he remembered. was, that he was three years going 
from Yakoutfk to Okotik. 
Of the four boats on the beach, M. de Lefeps 
. picked out the beft and the narroweft, which was 
twelve feet long by fix. On examination it was found 
abfolutely neceffary to caulk and pitch it, and to add 
a board tothe front to refift the force of the waves. 
All this was done as well as circumftances would ad- 
mit, and the boat was ready by the evening of the 17th. 
At the inftant of fetting out next morning, a caravan 
of merchants appeared from Yakoutfk. They were 
on their way to Okotfk, and M. de Lefleps prefled 
M. Allegretti to take advantage of their company. 
They parted at nine o’clock with the regret infeparable 
from mutual attachment 
M. de Lefleps placed two foldiers to row, but the 
rapidity of the current rendered the ufe of oars un- 
neceffary. All their care was to avoid a famous ca- 
taract which fell from a height of twenty feet upon 
three enormous rocks. On this, account it was 
thought prudent to lay to for the night, and the boat 
was covered with a tent. The next day, after pro- 
ceeding fome hours with great difficulty and caution, 
they went along a canal to the right of the cataract, 
‘which, when the water is high, affords a fafe paflage. 
They had ftill a difficult pafs to make, at about a 
werlt’s diftance from the cataract, and by not keeping 
exactly in the middle of the ftream, the boat was 
pitched upon a rock juft hidden by the water, but 
which, 


KAMTSCHATKA. 111 


which, being well covered with mofs, did them no 
injury. M. de Leffeps fired-at a bear that was walk- 
ing on the bank, and wourided him, though not fuf- 
ficiently to prevent his flying into the woods. He faw 
alfo a number of argalies, fwans, geefe, and a fox, 
but could not get within reach of any. 

After failing on the Yudoma at the rate of from ten 
to fifteen werfts an hour, they entered the Maya on 
the 22d at twoo’clock in the morning, and proceeded 
in a. direction nearly north, but inclining now and then 
tothe eaft. About noon they met nine boats drawn. 
by men, and bound to Okotfk, laden with various mi- 
litary ftores for M. Billing’s expedition. The knats 
were now very troublefome, and they had no other 
way of keeping them off, but by the fmoke of rotten 
wood, with which they kept a fire night and day. 

In the evening of the 23d they quitted the Maya 
for another river larger and more rapid called the Al- 
daun, which they merely croffed, in order to gain a 
habitation on the other fide oppofite the mouth of the 
Maya. 

M. de Lefleps found here fome marines belongin 
to M. Billing’s expedition, by whofe advice he took 
advantage of fome horfes of burthen, lately arrived, 
which, on their return, might convey him as far as 
Amguè. He therefore paid his guides, who were to 
take the boat to Belfkaia-pereprava; and having 
brought the Yakoutes who belonged to the horfes into 
good humour by dint of promifes, though they were 
at firft much averfe to conducting him ; after a good 
night’s reft, he mounted his horfe and continued his 
journey. 

Neither the voice nor the mufic of thefe Yakoutes, 
who were very fond of finging, could be called agree- 
able. They were befides great improvifatoris, or 
extempore fingers, but by no means it appears equally 
ingenious with fome of the muleteers in Spain or Por- 
tugal, Every thing they faw furnifhed them with a 

fubje&, 


112 TRAVELS FROM 


fubje&, and the flight of a bird lafted them an hour. 
But it was feldom beyond a fhort fentence ; fuch as 
‘6 the bird is juft gone by.” 

On the 26th they arrived in the evening on the 
border of the river Amga, two hundred werfts from 
the harbour at the mouth of the Maya. It was two 
deep to admit of fording, and the boats were all on 
the other fide. After calling therefore fome time, one 
of the guides, out of patience, ftript himfelf, and fwam 
acrofs to fetch a boat. The whole party got over in 
an hour, and proceeded to the habitation of a Yakoute 
Prince, named Girkoff. Golikoff went on before to 
endeavour to procure a favourable reception. The 
Prince fhowed them great civility, not only offering 
M. de Lefleps his yourte, but treated him with milk 
and butter, and promifed that his beft horfes fhould 
be at his fervice the next day. In one corner of the 
yourte, which was one of the beft they had feen, there 
was a trough of leather fixed for the reception of 
mare’s milk, which every perfon who entered, and 
the women in particular, ftirred with a ftick: and it is 
in this manner that the koumouifs or four beverage is 
made. This Prince fpoke the Ruffian language toler- 
ably well: and from him M. de Leffeps learned that 
at the beginning of fummer they quit their habitations, 
and go with their families and a {mall number of 
horfes, to gather a flock of provifions for the winter 
feafon. In May they have a feftival to celebrate the 
return of fpring, when they affemble in the open 
country, roaft oxen and ‘horfes, and with the help of 
fermented koumouifs, eat and drink abundantly, fing 
and dance, and finifh with an exhibition of necro- 
mancy : the forcerers being more at liberty, and more 
highly efteemed than at Kamtfchatka. But their de- 
light in fables drawn from mythology was particularly 
fingular. 

‘heir funerals are attended with a pomp propor- 
tionate to the rank and wealth of the deceafed. When 

a Prince 


hour. 
ch as 


1 the 
from 
S two 
Il on 
, one 
wam 
er in 
coute 
re to 
The 

ering 
milk 
ould 
f the 
there 
on of 
, and 
it is 
ige is 
oler- 
that 

ions, 
er of 
inter 
e the 
open 
Ip of 
fing 

PCTO- 
ore 

r de- 
larly 


ppor- 
hen 
ince 


KAMTSCHATKA. 113 
a Prince is buried, he is clothed in his richeft habits 
and: moft fplendid arms.» The body placed in a cof. 
fin, is-carried by the family to the tomb. The fa. 
vourite horfe of the Prince, and the next beft of the 
ftud, both richly caparifoned, are led by a fervant, or 
by fome near relation, on either fide ‘of the corfe. 
They are then tied to two pofts near the grave, and 
whilft the body ‘is interred, their throats are cut over 
it'as a fanguinary libation to their departed mafter; 
whom they are fuppofed to follow in the next world, 
and again contribute to his amufement. They then 
are flayed, and the head and fkins taken off together 
are hung up horizontally on the branches of the trees, 


_ at a fmall diftance from the tomb; for a memorial. 


A fire is then kindled, and the laft proof of friendfhip 
for the deceafed, is the roafting and eating upon the 
fpot his two favourite horfes. ‘This ceremony con- 
cluded, every body retires. The fame cuftoms are 
obferved for women, only inftead of a horfe, a chofen 
cow is immolated. : | 

Polygamy is allowed by thefe people. Obliged to 
make frequent journies, they have wives in every 
place they ftop at, but they are never brought toge- 
ther. ‘They are, notwithftanding this, jealous to ex- 
cefs, and {worn enemies to any one who fhould dare 
to violate the rights of hofpitality. 

By the care of Prince Girkoff, M de Leffeps found 
nine horfes ready for him the next morning. With 
thefe he departed at an early hour, and at a foie paces, 
obferved on the road wooden figures of a large bird 
of the duck or cormorant kind, faid to be the repre- 
fentation of a malicious divinity, who was the terror 
of the whole country. Among other things he is ac- 
cufed of leading travellers out of the road, and de- 
vouring their horfes. 

In the evening he ftopt at the habitation of another 
Yakoute Prince, whom he found as civil and agree- 
able as the former. Thefe yourtes, like thofe of the 

Voz. IT. (x) wandering 


114 TRAVELS FROM 

waridéering Koriacs, are round, fpacious, and fuftain- 
ed by poles, covered withthe bark of the beech tree, 
formed into pieces eighteen inches wide, and edged. 
with a kind of ribband:alfo. made of the fame. bark, 
and fhaped into feftoons. The infide of the yourte is: 
ornamented in the fame manner.) oy) 
‘The 28th he came to the river Sola, and the next 
morning reached a place called Yarmangui, two hun- 
dred werfts from Amgui, on the borders of the Lena. 
He ‘here eroffed in a boat to Yakoutfk, and waited.on 
M. Maclofsky, the governor, by whofe. invitation he: 
had ithe pleafure of fupping with M. Billings. 
“Yakoutfk was the pleafanteft and moft populous 
town M. de:Lefleps had yet feen. Jtis built on the 
weftern fide of the Lena. The houfes are. of wood, 
hÿge and commodious ; the churches are. moftly of 
fone. ‘The veflels trading here. are. merely barks 
ufed for tranfporting the provifions fent. by govern-. 
ment, fuch as falt and flour. The: Yakouts only come 
to the town when bufinefs calls them. The inhabi- 
tants are principally Ruffians, who feem to enjoy the 
pleafures of life:with great fociability. The mode of 
government is fimilar to that of Okotik. 

After recruiting his provifions, M. de. Lefleps left 
Yakoutfk at one o’clock in the morning of the sth 
July; and having been provided with a boat by M. 
Billings, proceeded up the Lena in his way to Irkoutfk. 
On the 14th, he arrived at Olekma, which is a badly: 
built village, fituated at the mouth of a river of the. 
fame name, between feven and eight hundred werits: 
from Yakoutfk. Here he ftopped two hours only; 
and at fome little. diftance was joined by a canoe with. 
one man it in, who was a Tongoufe: trader, land be. 

ed to one of the different hordes of his country= 
men inhabiting the banks of the river. M. de Lef. 
feps went afhore with: this man. and was treated with 
great civility by the people in general. A young deer 
was flain and laid at his feet, with expreflions of much: 
regret 


KAMTSCHATKA. 115 


regret that their poverty would not enable them to 
make him a more ufeful prefent. He obferved that 
the chief ornament of every yourte was a fmall idol 
of wood, having a human figure, with a) monftrous 
head. It was dreffed in their own cloaths, decorated 
with a number of rings, bells, and pieces of metal. 
They called him St. Nicholas, in allufion to the patron 
faint of the Ruffians. 

The navigation became lefs difagreeable when he 
had got to Peledoui, a large village peopled by Ruf: 
fians, defcended from the firft cultivators of Siberia, 
called Starogili. : He now got free from the dange- 
rous exiles who had hitherto conuduéted the boat, and 
whofe place was fupplied by honeft peafants, who were 
equally affiduous and obliging. In each of thefe vil: 
lages fix men were charged with the bufinefs of the 
pott, from which no privilege can exempt them. 
The next place he came to was Vitim, and four 
hundred werfts. from Peledoui he pañled a fmall town 
called Kirintk, or Kiringui, at the bottom of which 
the Lena flows, and farther on the Kiringa. From 
Kiringui he proceeded to Ufting, where was a confi- 
derable falt-pit, and beyond it three zavodes, or cop- 
per foundries. 

At Toutoura, which is three hundred and feventy 
werfts from Irkoutfk, he took horfes; and pafling 
through the large village of Verkhalensk, arrived the 
5th Auguft, at two o’clock'in the afternoon, at Katf- 
chouga, where travellers are provided with kibitks, or 
Ruffian carriages on four wheels, which are conduct- 
ed by exiles, and from time to time by Bratskis, who 
are a colony of fhepherds, fuppofed to be defcended 
from the Tartars, and who inhabit an uncultivated 
diftri& between Katfchouga and Irkoutsk. The ap- 
pearance of thefe people is fierce and favage. They 
are great thieves, and M. de Lefleps faw one of them 
taken up for ftealing cattle. Their herds, which are 
numerous, confifted of oxen, cows, horfes and princi- 

(H 2) pally 


116 TRAVELS FROM 


pally fheep. The rapidity with which he travelled 

revented him from feeing their habitations, or mak- 
ing himfelf acquainted with their habits of life. After 
pailing feveral: mountains, through horrible roads, 
about eléven;o’clock at night on the 6th, he entered 
the capital of Irkoutsk. The day following Major 
Dolgopoloff, who was the gorodnitfch, or comman- 
dant of the place, prefented him to the governor, 
Major General Arfenieff, to whom he gave the dif- 
patches of M. Kafloff, in the abfence of the Governor 
General, M. Jacobi, then at Peterfburgh, . The oblig- 
ing difpofition of M. Arfenieff gave M. de Leffeps an 
opportunity of recommending to him the foldier Go- 
kof, whofe father lived in the town, and who on 
that account was defirous of being received into the 
garrifon, which was eafily effected. tr Ki | 

This town, the capital of the government) of : Ir. 
koutfk and Kolivanic, is fituated on the border of the 
Angara, near the mouth of the Irkout, whence it has 
its name. It has many edifices of ftone. The 
churches are. of brick;. and fome wooden. houfes, 
which are large and commodious. The population 
is numerous; and the; great number of officers and 
magiftrates, who have introduced the modes and cul. 
toms of Peterfburgh; make the fociety very agreeable. 
Every perfon has a carriage drawn by a number of 
horfes according to his rank and dignity. It is alfo 
the fee of an archbifhop, who exercifes the patriar- 
chal functions through the whole extent of this part 
of the Ruffian eipire. 

But it is to the commerce carried on between Ruf- 
fia and China that this city chietly owes its fplendour. 
After rl fluctuations, for.a full account: of which 
M. de Lefleps refers the reader to the publications of 
Coxe and Pallas, the two: nations, difcarding all ani. 
mofity, have formed a, conneétion, that becomes, every 
day more active and interefting:; rr 


M. de Leffeps had no other ‘preparation ta make 
| or 


KAMTSCHATKA. 17 


for his departure than purchafing a‘ kibitk; and on 
the 1oth he took leave of M. Arfenieff, whofe fon and 
M. Dolgopoloff infifted on bearing him company the 
firft ftage, which was to the river Angava. Here he 
bade them adieu ; and from this place his journey to 
Peterfburgh was fo rapid, that it was impoffible for 
him to continue his seivations with any degree of 
accuracy. 

He firft traverfed a fmall canton, inhabited by Brat- 
kis, which led him to Oudinfk, and thence to Kranf. 
noyark, where he ftopt to repair the axle-trees of his 
carriage. This laft town derives its name from the 
red and fteep banks of the Yenifei, which wathes its 
walls He now entered the defart called Barabinfkoi- 
ftep, at the end of which he arrived at the town of 
Tomfk. The commandant here was a Frenchman, 
of the name of Villeneuve, with the rank of colonel, 
by whom M. de Lefleps was received with the cordi« 
ality of a fellow countryman. 

The town of Tomfk was tolerably neat, part of it 
on an eminence, where the Commandant’s houfe 
was fituated and part declining towards the river 
Tom. M. de Leffeps ftaid here merely to fet his 
wheels to rights. 

After croffing the principal rivers of the province, 
fuch asthe Oka, the Yénifei, the Tom, the Obi which 
the Ruffians call the Ob, and the Iftifch twice, he 
reached the town of Tobolfk at the mouth of the To- 
bol. This capital, fituated between the two rivers, 
would have been one of the firft cities of Siberia, but 
for a fire which had reduced the greateft part of it to 
afhes. An air of confternation {till reigned among 
the unfortunate inhabitants, who were working with 
ardour, in mournful filence, to repair their loffes. 
Already the ravages began to difappear, and the foun- 
dations of fome houfes and fhops were raifed above 
the furface, all of ftone, with which it is probable the 
teft.of the town will be rebuilt, ! 

In 


118 TRAVELS FROM 
In quitting it he croffed the Iftifch a third time, in 
order to go to Catharineburgh or Yekaterinbourgh, 
where he was delayed twenty-four hours, which he 
employed in vifiting a gold mine in the neighbour. 
hood; and the place where the copper money is 
coined. | 
To the authors ‘already cited, M. de Leffeps re- 
fers his readers for a defcription of the colonies of 
Tcheremifies, Tichonvafchies, Votiaguis and Tartars. 
Remarking only of the laft, that the neatnefs of their 
habitations was remarkable. Thefe ‘l'artars were 
ftationary, fond of agriculture, and rich in corn and 
cattle. They profefled the Mahometan religion. 
The head drefs of the Tcheremiffes was rather fin: 
gular. It was a piece of hollow wood eight or ten feet 
long, and four or five wide, which is put down 
clofe to the hair, and hanging a little over the fore. 
head. Round it is tied a white handkerchief either 
painted or embroidered with the gaudieft colours, 
and fringed with gold or filver, according to the tafte 
or wealth of the wearer. It is very large and hangs 


down behind. The other part of the drefs may be 
compared to a robe de chambre. 

A caravan of Bohemians who were met by M. de 
Leffeps, afked him for money and told him they 
were going to people and cultivate a fmall canton, 
upon the borders of the Wolga, near Saratoff. 

The neceffity of “dr à his pafsport to the Gover- 


nor of Cafan, together with the difficulty of procuring 
horfes, detained him till day-light. The Wolga, which 
wafhes its walls, makes the fituation very agreeable, 
The houfes are moftly of wood, and the churches 
ftone. He was told that it was the fee of an arch. 
bifhop.: : | 
-: Beyond the Wolga he paffed the towns of Houz- 
modémianfk and Makarieff, the latter of! which, re- 
puted for its linen manufactory, is, properly fpeaking, 
a village. At the end of the next fage he was obliged 
to 


| KAMTSCHATKA. 119 
to leave his kibitk, which had one.of the wheels 
broken, and proceeded to Nijenei-novogorod in a poft 
carriage. | il 

Lesvies Viadimer he came to Mofcow, and thence. 
pañling by Tver, Vouifchnei-volotfchok, Novogorod, 
and near ‘Pfartkocelo, entered Peterfburgh the 
24 of Septémbez in the night, having travelled fix 
thoufand werfts in forty days, of which eight had 
been paffed in unavoidable delays. 

Conformably to the inftruétion of Count de la Pé- 
roufe, M. de Leffeps delivered his difpatches into the 
hands of M. le Compte de Ségur, Minifter Plenipo- 
tentiary from the Court of France to the Emprefs; 
and receiving others from him ke quitted, Petertbur h 
on the 26th, about midnight. Two. days he was de. 
tained at Riga by frefh accidents to his carriage, and 
at Memel eight hours were taken up in engagin 
watermen to take him acrofs an arm of the fea, called 
Courich-haff. He paffed the night at Berlin, M. le 
Compte D’Efterno, Minifter Plenipotentiary, at that 
Court, being defirous of fending letters by him. 

At length he revifited his own country, and the . 
17th of October, at three o’clock in the afternoon, 
arrived at Verfailles. He alighted at the houfe of M. 
le Compte de la Luzerne, Minifter and Secretary to 
the Marine Department, by whom he had the honour 
of being prefented to his Majefty the fame day, and 
as a recompence for his undertaking, was appointed 
Conful to Cronftadt. 


FINIS. 


ERRATUM: 
Page 37; to page 96, in running title for 1785, read 1786. 


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